grandma’s dal
braised lentils
My grandma Meenakshi insisted that this dal be cooked every other day. The “moong” was her favorite dal, being easy to digest. She preferred her dal with a bit of extra asafetida. Meenakshi was very particular about her diet; she never even allowed onion or garlic to enter her kitchen.
3½ oz (100 g) moong dal (green gram) (see glossary)
3½ oz (100 g) toor dal (yellow lentils) (see glossary)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
6 small green chilies, halved lengthwise
⅓ cup (2¾ oz/80 g) ghee (see glossary)
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
2 tomatoes, sliced
½ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
roughly chopped cilantro (coriander), to garnish
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Wash and rinse the moong dal and toor dal and put in a large saucepan. Add sufficient water to cover the dal by about ½ inch (1 cm). Add the turmeric and chilies and bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered for 35 minutes or until the dal has completely broken down, adding a little more water if it looks dry.
Meanwhile, heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Once the ghee is hot, add the cumin seeds and cook for 30 seconds. Add the ginger and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomato and asafetida and cook for 1 minute.
Add to the dal and cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and serve garnished with cilantro.
avial
vegetables in yogurt curry
This is one of the very early recipes my mum taught me. It is a very simple and easy mix of vegetables with a very clean taste. The secret is to cook all of the vegetables at different stages to preserve their crunchiness. This is predominantly cooked with root vegetables. In Kerala they add peeled jackfruit seeds. If the timing is not right, it can end up as a vegetable mash.
½ cup (2½ oz/70 g) grated coconut (see glossary)
3 small green chilies, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
⅓ cup (3¼ oz/95 g) plain thick yogurt, beaten
1 potato, cut into finger-sized batons
1 sweet potato (about 14 oz/400 g), cut into finger-sized batons
1 carrot, cut into finger-sized batons
3 drumsticks (see glossary), cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces
½ taro or white sweet potato (yam) (about 7 oz/200 g), cut into finger-sized batons
1 green banana, cut into finger-sized batons
1 small eggplant, cut into finger-sized batons
10 green beans, halved
2 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil
10 curry leaves
1 tablespoon coconut oil (see glossary) (see tip)
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Put the grated coconut, green chilies, and cumin seeds in a small spice grinder with 2 tablespoons of water and grind to a smooth paste. This step is very important as it provides the texture of the finished dish. Transfer to a bowl and stir the beaten yogurt into this paste.
The vegetables need to be cooked until they are just tender and soft to the bite, but not mushy, and in just enough water to cover them. Put the potato, sweet potato, carrot, and drumsticks into a heavy-based saucepan over medium–high heat and pour over enough boiling water to just cover the vegetables. Season with salt.
After 2 minutes, add the taro, banana, and eggplant, cook for 6 minutes, then add the beans and cook for 2 minutes.
When the vegetables are almost done, add the coconut paste and cook over low heat for 5–7 minutes—the yogurt tends to split, hence the need for the heat to be low, and the coconut acts as a binding agent to prevent the yogurt from curdling.
While the vegetables are cooking, heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over high heat, add the curry leaves, and fry for about 20 seconds. Drain on a paper towel.
To finish the dish, pour over the cold coconut oil and scatter over the fried curry leaves.
tip: If cold coconut oil is too pungent for your taste, heat the oil before pouring it over the dish.
kaali dal
black lentils
This dish is found all over India. In the north, it is called “maa ki dal” and is made with the starchy and wholesome urad dal (black lentils), but in the south it is made with toor dal (yellow lentils), which have a very low starch content. This is due to the different climates; North India gets much colder so the food reflects the need for a heavier and richer diet, and spices such as cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, and nutmeg are used in cooking to keep the body warm, whereas in the hotter south, spices such as chili and garlic are consumed in high amounts to help the body sweat and keep it cool.
1⅓ cups (10½ oz/300 g) urad dal (black lentils) (see glossary), soaked overnight in 8½ cups (70 fl oz/2 liters) water
½ cup (3½ oz/100 g) dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight (see tip)
9 oz (250 g) tomatoes, roughly chopped, or 6 oz (170 g) tomato paste (concentrated purée)
3½ oz (100 g) butter, chopped
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
1 tablespoon crushed garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable or sunflower oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon red chili powder
halved cherry tomatoes, half-and-half cream (18% fat), finely shredded ginger, finely chopped cilantro (coriander), and softened butter, to garnish (optional)
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
You will need to begin this recipe a day ahead.
Drain and rinse the soaked dal and kidney beans, put in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, and cover with about 1½ inches (4 cm) of water. As soon as it comes to a boil, reduce the heat as low as possible and cook for about 2 hours, or until the lentils and beans are tender, adding a little more water if it looks dry.
When the lentils are cooked, add the tomato, butter, ginger, and garlic and cook for 20 minutes. The secret to a good dal is cooking over low heat for a long period.
Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat, add the cumin seeds, and when they turn semi-brown, add the onion and chili powder and cook, stirring regularly, for 8 minutes. This is the tempering. (See glossary for an explanation of tempering.)
When the dal is cooked, add the hot tempering, season with salt, mix gently to combine, and cook for 5 minutes. The color should be dark brown.
Ladle into bowls, add a cherry tomato half to each bowl, drizzle with a little cream, and scatter over some ginger and cilantro. For extra richness, add a small knob of butter to each bowl.
tip: Let the lentils soak overnight to save on preparation time. It’s important to use dried—not canned—kidney beans, as canned beans do not give the desired starchy texture to the dish.
rasam
tomato, pepper & tamarind soup
There is an old Indian saying, “education begins at home,” and this was the very first dish I learned from my grandma when I was eight years old. It is one of the most simple dishes to make, but as with most simple dishes, the flavors must be balanced well, and timing is key. The secret is to cook it for the right amount of time and keep the flavors lingering on the tongue. Rasam is an everyday dish eaten with white rice, accompanied by other vegetables or meat. It is cooked in two stages. The first stage is with the tamarind and tomato where everything is cooked to a boiling point to make a concentrated mix. The second stage is when the cooked dal is added with water, but not allowed to boil—it should only simmer. The finished dish is a thin broth.
⅓ cup (2½ oz/70 g) toor dal (yellow lentils) (see glossary)
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ tablespoons rasam powder (see page 215)
3 tablespoons tamarind pulp (see glossary)
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves finely chopped and stalks tied together with string
juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon ghee (see glossary)
1–2 dried red chilies
10 curry leaves
SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Put the dal in a heavy-based saucepan with 6⅓ cups (52 fl oz/1.5 liters) of water and the turmeric. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30–40 minutes, or until soft. (Indian housewives generally cook this dal in a pressure cooker.) Set aside in the cooking water, do not drain.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan, add ¼ teaspoon of the mustard seeds and let them crackle. Then add ½ teaspoon of the cumin seeds and all of the asafetida and lightly brown the cumin, stirring regularly. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Add 3 cups (26 fl oz/750 ml) of water, the rasam powder, tamarind pulp, tomato, and cilantro stalks, then bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes. This will infuse all of the flavors together. Season with salt.
Once boiled, add the dal and the cooking water and simmer for 5 minutes—do not allow it to boil. Remove the cilantro stalks and stir in the cilantro leaves and lime juice. Remove from the heat.
To make the tempering (see glossary for an explanation of tempering), heat the ghee in a small frying pan over medium–high heat, add the dried chilies and the remaining ¼ teaspoon mustard seeds, and let them crackle. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon cumin seeds and let them brown. Add the curry leaves, then stir the mixture through the cooked rasam. Immediately cover with a lid and leave for 5 minutes. This is important as the tempering will seep through the rasam to flavor it. Check the seasoning, adding some black pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls to serve.
potato karakari
spicy fried potato
This dish is an essential accompaniment to a Tamil meal, enjoyed by people from all walks of life. My son Akilesh is very fond of it. This has always been the case except for one occasion when he was about ten years old. He wanted to help me in the kitchen, so I had him peel a bag of potatoes for an Abhi’s anniversary dinner in which we were serving the karakari. I think the sheer quantity of potatoes he had to peel turned him off karakari for a while… Well, at least on that occasion he did not eat any! I prefer to use kipflers, which don’t need peeling—just give them a good scrub.
1 lb 12 oz (800 g) kipfler potatoes, scrubbed well and quartered lengthwise
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric
3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon split urad dal (split black lentils/black gram) (see glossary)
1 teaspoon split chana dal (see glossary)
2 dried red chilies, sliced with seeds removed
⅛ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
2 onions, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed
10 curry leaves
SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Put the potatoes in a saucepan of water with ½ teaspoon of the turmeric, bring to a boil, then cook for 10–15 minutes or until just tender. Drain and cool.
Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the urad and chana dal and fry until golden brown. Add the chili and asafetida and cook for 1 minute.
Add the onion and cook over low heat until softened—do not brown.
Add the cooked potato, paprika, coriander seeds, remaining turmeric, and 3 tablespoons of water and cook, covered, over low heat for 5 minutes—the water assists in the spices coating the potatoes. Check the seasoning, then stir in the curry leaves and serve.
vazhakai thoran
green banana & coconut
There is an interesting saying in Tamil, “vazai pol vazhu”—live like a banana tree. The nature of the banana tree is always giving and sharing. Every part of the tree is used in some form or other. Fiber from the banana plant is used as thread to weave garlands. Banana leaves are used as disposable plates in Southern India because when hot food is served on them the vitamins and minerals in the leaves are released—one has to experience eating on a banana leaf to know how it enhances the flavor of a dish. The banana stem and its flowers are also used in dishes that are eaten to remove kidney stones.
The banana tree is a symbol of fertility—even before a plant dies a new shoot emerges. Tamil Brahmins have a great affinity for the banana plant, and raw banana features in almost all the major occasions in a Tamil Brahmin household: birth, mourning, and festivities, including New Year. The recipe below is a variation on the standard, as a strict Brahmin would not use onion or garlic.
6 green bananas
3 tablespoons coconut oil
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon split urad dal (black lentils/black gram) (see glossary)
1 teaspoon split chana dal (see glossary)
6 garlic cloves, crushed
2 dried red chilies, thinly sliced with seeds removed
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
⅛ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
4 French shallots (eschalots), thinly sliced
⅓ cup (1½ oz/40 g) grated coconut or ⅓ cup (1 oz/30 g) shredded coconut (see glossary)
10 curry leaves
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Peel the bananas and slice into bite-sized pieces.
Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the urad and chana dal and fry for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. Add the garlic, red chili, turmeric, and asafetida and cook for 1 minute. Add the shallot and cook until softened—do not brown. Add the raw banana and cook, covered, for 5 minutes.
Finally, stir in the coconut and curry leaves, check the seasoning, and serve.
Vellai porrial
cauliflower & coconut
In Tamil “vellai” means white. This dish is as appealing visually as it is delicious to eat. The white cauliflower and beans with freshly grated coconut are beautifully balanced with the curry leaves, both for color and flavor, and are complemented by the sweetness of the shallot. The heat of the green and red chilies completes this fabulous dish.
1 lb 5 oz (600 g) cauliflower florets
3½ oz (100 g) double-peeled fava (broad) beans
3 tablespoons gingili (unscented sesame oil) (see glossary)
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
⅛ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
1 teaspoon split urad dal (black lentils/black gram) (see glossary)
1 teaspoon split chana dal (see glossary)
2 dried red chilies, halved lengthwise with seeds removed
2 green chilies, finely shredded with seeds removed
4 French shallots (eschalots), thinly sliced
⅓ cup (1½ oz/40 g) grated coconut or ⅓ cup (1 oz/30 g) shredded coconut (see glossary)
fried curry leaves, to garnish
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Cook the cauliflower in 4 cups (35 fl oz/1 liter) of salted boiling water for 5–7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool.
Allow the water to come back to a boil, then add the fava beans and cook for 3–4 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Heat the gingili in a wok over medium heat, add the mustard seeds and asafetida, and let the mustard seeds crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the urad and chana dal and fry until golden brown. Add the red and green chilies and cook for 1 minute.
Add the shallot and sweat for 4–5 minutes or until softened—do not brown.
Add the cauliflower and fava beans and cook, covered, for 5 minutes to allow the spices to infuse the vegetables.
Finally, stir in the coconut, check the seasoning, and garnish with the fried curry leaves.
amma’s dosa
spiced rice pancake
A dish originating with my grandma, fed to me by my mother as a child, and still fed to me by my wife. The tradition continues! I hope to train my future daughters-in-law to make it as well. (Mastery of this dish is a prerequisite for my sons’ marriage, too!) It is a simple preparation that can be conjured up in minutes, and a fuss-free snack for the evening “tiffin.”
½ cup (3¼ oz/95 g) fine semolina
3 tablespoons rice flour
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons buttermilk
ghee, for cooking (see glossary)
store-bought lime pickle, to serve
tomato chili chutney (see page 108), to serve (optional)
TEMPERING
1 tablespoon gingili (unscented sesame oil) (see glossary)
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon chili flakes
2 small green chilies, chopped
⅛ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
10 curry leaves, finely shredded
MAKES ABOUT 15
Combine the semolina, rice flour, and all-purpose flour in a large bowl with the buttermilk and 1¾ cups (15¼ fl oz/435 ml) of water and stir to combine until smooth. Set aside.
To make the tempering, heat the gingili in a small frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for 20 seconds. Add the cumin, chili flakes, green chili, and asafetida and cook for less than 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add the curry leaves. Stir the tempering into the semolina batter.
Heat a little ghee in an omelet or similar-sized frying pan over medium–high heat. Whisk the batter to combine again, then put 2 tablespoons of batter into the pan and swirl the mixture around to make a very thin pancake about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. Cook for 1 minute, then carefully flip over and cook for 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate while you make the remaining dosa, stirring the batter each time before adding it to the pan.
Serve immediately with the lime pickle and chutney.
tip: This is an unfermented dosa batter and is not supposed to be a crispy dosa. The mixture should be more like a crepe batter.
Most Indian meals are cooked then tempered with either black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, urad dal (black lentils/black gram), and/or chilies in gingili or ghee. The critical part of tempering is not to burn or overcook the tempering and to retain the flavor and color of each ingredient. This is then added to the dish at the finishing stage and usually covered immediately so the flavors can infuse the dish.
dal & spinach massial
lentil & spinach curry
This is a healthy dish with high iron and protein content from the spinach and lentils. “Massial” denotes a dish that is a near mashed consistency, but not a purée. I have childhood memories of mashing the preparation for my mum in the kitchen with a wooden mallet. This dish was traditionally cooked in a black stone pot (makkal chatty).
3 tablespoons toor dal (yellow lentils), rinsed (see glossary)
2 tablespoons (1 fl oz/30 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
¼ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)
2 dried red chilies
2 bunches spinach, chopped
10 curry leaves
2 teaspoons finely grated ginger
½ teaspoon crushed garlic
3 small green chilies
1 tomato, diced
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Put the dal in a large heavy-based saucepan, cover with about 1½ inches (4 cm) of water and bring to a boil over medium heat. As soon as it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to as low as possible and cook, covered, for 45 minutes or until tender, adding a little more water if it looks dry. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large wok—this is necessary as the chopped spinach is fairly voluminous, but it will shrink on cooking—over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the asafetida and the dried chilies and cook for about 2 minutes or until the chilies are lightly browned.
Add the remaining ingredients (except the dal), season with salt, and cook, covered, over medium heat until the spinach is cooked—do not add any water as the spinach will wilt and release enough water. Once the spinach is cooked, stir in the cooked dal and serve hot.
tirunelveli varutha kozhi
aromatic chicken curry
My hometown of Tirunelveli, in the southernmost part of India, inspired this recipe. Tirunelveli is located in a region formerly known as Nanjilnadu, ranging from Madurai to Kanyakumari, and the main spices used there are coriander seeds and ginger. This dish is finished off with crushed coriander seeds and cumin, which add a unique freshness to the curry. It is light, yet aromatic.
1 lb 12 oz (800 g) skinless, boneless chicken thigh fillets, diced
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ cup (3½ fl oz/100 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
4 dried red chilies
2-inch (5-cm) piece of cassia bark (see glossary)
6 green cardamom pods
1 dried bay leaf
6 garlic cloves, sliced
1 large onion, sliced
1½ teaspoons finely grated ginger
2 tomatoes, chopped
10 curry leaves
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, crushed
½ teaspoon South Indian garam masala (see page 125)
½ bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves chopped
SERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Rub the chicken with the turmeric and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan over high heat and dry-fry the cumin seeds for about 1 minute, shaking the pan regularly. Finely crush the seeds using a mortar and pestle.
Heat ⅓ cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) of the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat, add the fennel seeds, dried chilies, cassia bark, cardamom, bay leaf, and garlic, and cook for 1 minute.
Add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes or until browned.
Add the ginger and chicken and stir to coat the chicken. Cook for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and cook for about 10 minutes or until the chicken is nearly cooked through.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a small frying pan over medium–high heat, add the curry leaves, and fry for about 30 seconds. Drain on a paper towel.
Add the crushed cumin seeds, crushed coriander seeds, garam masala, curry leaves, and chopped cilantro leaves to the chicken mixture and stir to combine. Season with salt and serve.
flathead pakoras
fish fritters
juice of 1 lime
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons finely grated ginger
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 lb 12 oz (800 g) flathead fillets, each cut into 3 pieces
½ cup (2¼ oz/60 g) chickpea flour (besan)
3 tablespoons rice flour
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, finely crushed
½ teaspoon red chili powder
vegetable or sunflower oil, for deep-frying
¼ pomegranate, seeds removed
fennel fronds, to garnish (optional)
green chutney (see page 210), to serve
SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Combine the lime juice, turmeric, cumin, ginger, and garlic, rub all over the fish, and set aside for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the chickpea and rice flours with the crushed coriander seeds and chili powder in a flat container. Roll the fish in the spiced flour mixture.
Fill a wok or heavy-based saucepan one-third full with oil and heat to 355°F (180°C) or until a cube of bread turns golden brown in 15 seconds. Deep-fry the fish for 4–5 minutes or until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.
Serve garnished with the pomegranate seeds and fennel fronds, and accompanied by the green chutney.
jackfruit payasam
rice pudding
This was my grandma’s favorite dessert. The original dish strictly uses fresh jackfruit, but we can make our life much, much easier using the canned version. Fresh jackfruit is messy as it secretes a resin that sticks like super glue, and handling it requires a lot of technique. My gran’s trick was to apply coconut oil to her hands before touching the jackfruit. The seed of the jackfruit is also a popular snack, consumed like chestnuts.
1½ oz (40 g) basmati rice
2 teaspoons ghee (see glossary)
2 teaspoons unsalted cashew nuts, roughly chopped
5 saffron threads
3 teaspoons rosewater
4 cups (35 fl oz/1 liter) milk
4 green cardamom pods, crushed
½ cup (3½ oz /100 g) granulated sugar
1¾ oz (50 g) canned jackfruit, finely chopped
sultanas (golden raisins), to garnish
SERVES 6 AS A DESSERT
Soak the rice in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain.
Heat the ghee in a small saucepan over medium–high heat and fry the cashew nuts for about 1 minute, shaking the pan regularly.
Soak the saffron threads in the rosewater to make a saffron water. Set aside.
Put the milk and cardamom pods in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes. Add the rice and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until the rice is soft.
Add the sugar and jackfruit and cook for 10–15 minutes.
Once it has thickened slightly, add the saffron water, remove from the heat, and cool slightly. It is supposed to be liquidy.
Divide among individual glasses or serving dishes and serve warm or cold garnished with the fried cashew nuts and sultanas.
tip: Be patient and cook over low heat.
beetroot halwa
sweet beet pudding
Traditionally halwa is eaten in Northern India during winter, where it is made using the red carrots that the region is famous for, while in Southern India, they eat a version with beets all year round.
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) beets (beetroot), washed and grated
2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) milk
⅔ cup (4½ oz/125 g) granulated sugar
1 ¾ cup (1.8 oz/50 g) ghee (see glossary)
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon raisins, lightly crushed using a mortar and pestle
2 tablespoons pistachio nuts, roughly chopped
strawberry coulis (see page 162), edible silver leaf, rose petal ice cream, and edible flowers, to serve (optional)
SERVES 4 AS A DESSERT
Put the beets in a saucepan with the milk and ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of water, and cook over low heat for 20 minutes or until the beets soften and most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Add the sugar, mix well, and cook for about 30 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved and all the milk has been absorbed.
Add 1 oz (30 g) of the ghee, the cardamom, and the raisins, mix well and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Heat the remaining ghee in a small frying pan over medium heat and fry the pistachio nuts until lightly golden.
Serve the halwa hot, cold, or at room temperature in a bowl, or form into small quenelles (oval mounds). Drizzle with the strawberry coulis, garnish with silver leaf, and serve with rose petal ice cream, the fried nuts, and edible flowers if desired.
tip: Make sure that all the beets have been cooked and there is very little water left before adding the sugar.
