Moosewood Restaurant New Classics: 350 Recipes for Homestyle Favorites and Everyday Feasts

Transform the classic egg salad sandwich by adding dressed-up herbed mayonnaise and the sweet bite of asparagus, and roll it up in a flour tortilla.

Total time: 45 minutes

6 large eggs

2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

12 to 15 asparagus spears

4 flour tortillas (10 inches across)

4 leaves of red leaf, green leaf, or Bibb lettuce, rinsed and dried

Place the eggs in a saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Drain the eggs and cover with cold water.

In a mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, tarragon, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. As soon as the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel and coarsely chop them. Stir the eggs into the dressing. Set aside.

Rinse and stem the asparagus. Steam or boil the spears until bright green and just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Plunge into cold water, drain, and cut into 5-inch pieces.

Warm a large dry skillet on medium heat. Warm the tortillas one at a time for 20 to 30 seconds on each side, until softened. Lay each warm tortilla flat on a work surface. Center a lettuce leaf on each and top with about ⅓ cup of egg salad and several asparagus pieces. Fold in both sides over the filling and then roll from the bottom up to form a wrap.

Serve immediately.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 339 CALORIES, 16.6 G PROTEIN, 17.7 G FAT, 28.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 400.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 578.7 MG SODIUM, 2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

caribbean beans & greens wrap

Serves 2 to 4

Filled with the warm flavors of the Caribbean—a subtle blend of thyme, allspice, and orange—this vegan wrap is both nutritious and delicious. The wrap filling is quickly prepared with canned beans and conveniently made all in one skillet. Other greens, such as kale or mustard, could be used, but we prefer collard greens.

Eat the wraps immediately or prepare some ahead and store them in the refrigerator for later. Try them with Peach Salsa or just enjoy them plain. Mmm, mmm.

1 cup diced onions

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon salt

4 cups lightly packed chopped collard greens

1 tablespoon water, or as needed

1½ cups cooked black beans (15.5-ounce can, rinsed and drained)

3 tablespoons orange juice

4 flour tortillas (8 or 9 inches across)

In a nonreactive soup pot or skillet, sauté the onions and garlic in the oil for about 10 minutes, until translucent, stirring often. Add the thyme, allspice, salt, collard greens, and water. Cover and cook on medium heat, adding more water if necessary to prevent sticking, until the greens are tender, about 5 to 10 minutes. (The amount of time it will take depends upon how fresh and young the collards are.)

Push the greens to the sides of the pot, add the beans to the center, and mash them well with a potato masher. Add the orange juice, stir everything together, and remove from the heat.

Warm the tortillas. Place a generous ½ cup of filling on the bottom half of each tortilla, roll it up, and serve immediately.

PER 6.5-OUNCE SERVING: 237 CALORIES, 8.9 G PROTEIN, 6.2 G FAT, 37.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 785.1 MG SODIUM, 8.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

If you’re preparing these wraps ahead of time, don’t warm the tortillas. Just roll them up, place in a lightly oiled baking dish, cover tightly, and refrigerate until ready to use. To serve, bake covered at 350° for 15 to 20 minutes, until hot.

indian curried potato wrap

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Baking time: 10 to 15 minutes

Chapatis, made from whole wheat flour and water, are simple Indian flat breads that are traditionally served with curries and used to scoop up the sauce and bits of vegetables.

Some of us at Moosewood have made our own from scratch. Those available in natural food stores and large supermarkets tend to be more pliable than the homemade kind, so they lend themselves to new uses, like these wraps.

Try them accompanied by Rhubarb Cherry Chutney.

2½ cups cubed white potatoes

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup Neufchâtel or cream cheese, at room temperature

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup diced onions

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon turmeric

⅛ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

½ cup frozen green peas

½ cup chopped fresh tomatoes

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

salt to taste

6 whole wheat chapatis or flour tortillas (7 inches across)*

* We recommend Cedarlane whole wheat chapatis, a flat Indian “bread” available in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Lightly oil a baking dish.

Place the potatoes and salt in a small pot with water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and cook for about 10 minutes, until tender. When the potatoes are tender, drain and mash them with the Neufchatel, and set aside.

Meanwhile, warm the oil in a saucepan, and sauté the onions and garlic on medium heat for about 10 minutes, until translucent. Add the ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, and cayenne and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the peas and tomatoes, cover, and cook on low heat just long enough to heat through. Stir the cooked vegetables and the lemon juice into the mashed potatoes. Add salt to taste.

Place a generous ⅓ cup of the filling at the bottom of each chapati and roll it up. Place the wraps seam side down in the prepared baking dish, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until hot.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 236 CALORIES, 6.2 G PROTEIN, 7.1 G FAT, 37.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 7.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 409.8 MG SODIUM, 3.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

roasted pepper & onion wrap

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Baking time: 25 to 30 minutes

These wraps are great for casual meals. If you prefer a simpler version of the filling, just omit the seitan and/or grated cheese and plan to make six wraps rather than eight. The result is still delicious and satisfying. Try replacing the seitan with some Lemony Baked Tofu or add a dollop of your favorite salsa to the wrap.

Serve the filling and tortillas right at the picnic table so everyone can wrap their own. Or offer these with Drunken Beans and Cucumber Peanut Salad for a delicious Mexican-style menu.

5 cups thinly sliced onions

5 cups red and green bell pepper strips

4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1½ teaspoons dried oregano

1½ teaspoons salt

ground black pepper to taste

1½ cups sliced seitan (1 × ¼-inch strips)

1½ cups grated feta, smoked mozzarella, provolone, or Cheddar cheese

8 flour or corn tortillas (8 inches across)

Preheat the oven to 450°. Oil a large baking tray about 12 × 18 inches.

Place the onions, bell peppers, garlic, oil, oregano, salt, and black pepper in a large bowl. Toss together to coat the vegetables evenly with oil, then spread them on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake for 10 minutes and then briefly stir the vegetables. Bake 10 minutes more and stir again. Return them to the oven and continue to bake for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and beginning to brown. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl, then mix in the seitan and grated cheese.

Warm the tortillas. Place about a cup of the filling on one half of each hot tortilla, roll up the wraps, and serve immediately. Or if you prefer, place the filling in a bowl, cover the tortillas with a towel to keep them warm, and let each person assemble and “wrap” his or her own.

PER 17-OUNCE SERVING: 527 CALORIES, 18.2 G PROTEIN, 22.9 G FAT, 66 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8.8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 37.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,679.5 MG SODIUM, 6.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

fajitas

The word fajita comes from the Spanish word faja, which means belt or sash. Traditionally, grilled chicken or beef would be sliced into strips and included in a fajita. But our version features strips of tofu and vegetables roasted with olive oil and garlic and wrapped in warm flour tortillas. Bring the fajitas to the table already assembled or have the tortillas and filling ready and let everyone make their own.

Total time: 45 minutes

1 cake firm tofu (16 ounces)

1 zucchini

1 onion

1 red bell pepper

roasted vegetable quesadillas

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup Mole or prepared salsa

4 flour tortillas (10 inches across)

Preheat the oven to 425°.

Cut the cake of tofu crosswise into 4 slices. Stack the slices and cut them into ½-inch-wide strips. Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise, slice the halves lengthwise into ½-inch strips, and cut the strips crosswise into 3-inch lengths. Cut the onion into ½-inch-thick slices. Cut the pepper in half, remove the seeds, and cut into ½-inch-thick strips.

In a large bowl, lightly toss the tofu, zucchini, onions, and peppers with the garlic, oil, and salt. Spread in an even layer on a baking sheet. Roast in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and browned.

When the vegetables have been roasting for 15 minutes, simmer the Mole in a small saucepan or skillet on low heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cover and set aside. Heat each tortilla on a hot, dry griddle or skillet for about 1 minute, flipping it two or three times until it’s hot.

To serve, put about ¼ of the roasted vegetable and tofu mixture in the center of each hot tortilla, top with some of the Mole or salsa, roll it up, and serve warm.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 437 CALORIES, 16.3 G PROTEIN, 22.9 G FAT, 47 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,590.8 MG SODIUM, 7.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Baking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Potato sandwiches—have we no shame? These pan-grilled tortilla sandwiches stuffed with savory roasted vegetables and melted Cheddar are heavenly.

The vegetables don’t have to be measured exactly for this recipe to work fine. One medium potato, a very small onion, half a bell pepper, and one small zucchini should do the trick. We give measurements in cups, because everyone’s notions of “small” or “medium” differ. For the best results, cut the vegetables into quite thin slices—no more than ¼ inch thick.

2 cups quartered and sliced potatoes

½ cup sliced onions

¾ cup sliced red or green bell peppers

1½ cups sliced zucchini

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

4 flour tortillas (8 inches across)

1 cup grated Cheddar cheese

Preheat the oven to 425°.

Toss all of the vegetables with the olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt, and black pepper until evenly coated. Spread them on a large baking sheet in a single layer. Roast in the oven until the potatoes are tender and beginning to brown, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Pile about ¼ of the roasted vegetable filling on one half of each of the tortillas, leaving a ½-inch border around the outer edge. Top the filling with ¼ cup of the cheese. Fold the tortilla over the filling to form a half-moon shape.

Heat a lightly oiled large skillet on medium heat. When the skillet is hot, cook two of the quesadillas for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Remove the quesadillas from the skillet and keep them warm while cooking the remaining two quesadillas. Slice each quesadilla in half and serve warm.

PER 8.5-OUNCE SERVING: 375 CALORIES, 12.1 G PROTEIN, 18.9 G FAT, 40.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 7.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 29.7 MG CHOLESTEROL, 632.2 MG SODIUM, 3.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variations

Try adding portabello mushrooms, eggplant, or asparagus. Replace the Cheddar cheese with feta or mozzarella and accent with your favorite herbs.

vegetable rolls

These Southeast Asian–style rolls feature bean thread noodles and sautéed vegetables seasoned with fresh tarragon and basil. They’re most flavorful served at room temperature—or even warm—so if you have any cold leftover filling, reheat it before using.

Total time: 1½ hours

The cooking goes quickly, so prepare all of the vegetables and seasonings before you start to cook. The rice-paper discs, also called spring roll wrappers, are rather fragile, so expect to break one or two. The packages contain enough to accommodate a few “casualties.”

1½ to 2 ounces bean thread noodles *

1 tablespoon peanut or other vegetable oil

2 cups grated green cabbage

2 cups sliced mushrooms

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

1 cup peeled and grated carrots

1 cup thinly sliced red bell peppers

½ cup finely chopped scallions

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

hoisin dipping sauce

¼ cup hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon water

2 tablespoons rice vinegar or lemon juice

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

½ teaspoon Chinese chili paste (optional)

12 rice paper discs (8 inches across)

¼ cup chopped peanuts

* Bean thread noodles, also known as cellophane noodles, are made from mung bean flour. They become slippery and transparent as they cook and readily absorb flavors. They can be found in Asian groceries and well-stocked supermarkets.

Soak the bean threads in warm water until softened, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the cabbage for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and ginger and continue to sauté on medium heat for another 4 minutes, until the mushrooms are soft. Add the carrots and bell peppers and cook for about 5 minutes more, until hot but still slightly crunchy. Remove from the heat.

When the bean threads are soft, drain them and cut into 3- to 4-inch lengths with scissors or a knife. Add them to the sautéed vegetables with the scallions, soy sauce, vinegar, tarragon, and basil. Stir to combine and set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together all of the Hoisin Dipping Sauce ingredients.

Moisten the rice-paper discs a few at a time by immersing each one in a large, shallow bowl of warm water, transferring it to a clean towel, and laying it flat. Let them soften for a few minutes. Soften more as needed and as space permits.

Place about ⅓ cup of filling on the bottom half of a softened disc, fold over the sides, and then roll up from the bottom, as tightly and gently as possible. Place seam side down on a platter and repeat with the rest of the filling and discs.

Serve with the Hoisin Dipping Sauce and a sprinkling of peanuts.

PER 8-OUNCE SERVING: 391 CALORIES, 9.1 G PROTEIN, 11 G FAT, 64.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 740.3 MG SODIUM, 5.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

packing up lunch

We read recently that forty percent of all meals consumed in America are eaten outside the home. We’re not certain whether brown bag and boxed lunches are included in that category—they’re eaten away from home, but the food may be homemade.

Most of us have vivid memories of carrying lunch to school. Comparing our lunch box contents with our schoolmates’, we viewed other people’s food with curiosity, relief, and occasional envy, and sharpened our swapping strategies. Some may remember when a brown bag lunch was a paper sack from home, an egg salad sandwich and an apple, eaten on a park bench. But for the last fifteen years the corporate Brown Bag Lunch is code for eating while you’re meeting. While lunch was once a respite from the pressures of the workday, too often these days it’s compressed to a few quiet minutes or rolled into the day’s affairs.

Whether it’s working lunches, wolfing down something between classes, or committee meetings from 6 to 9, we need to defend the quality of our lives against the excessive demands of work and civic duty. When you eat well, you feel it. Find alternatives to the dining hall service, ordering out, or the dreaded snack machine. Reduce the impact of a busy schedule on your health and energy by taking control of your diet before work conquers well-being.

When packing lunch for young people, always try to include fresh or dried fruit, carrots, or celery. Soups stay hot and juice, milk, or fruit smoothies stay cold in squat insulated bottles. If a healthful drink is included in the lunch pack, your kids are less likely to buy soda.

Foods that travel well to work or school settings should also meet these standards:

You can pack it up in 5 to 10 minutes, and it won’t spoil before you eat it.

It still looks and tastes good when you’re ready for lunch.

It’s not noisy to eat.

You can look civilized and attentive to others while you eat it.

You don’t feel ashamed of your lunch; in fact, other people wish you’d share.

It doesn’t leave odd aromas or debris in the meeting room or on you.

You’re confident that you’re eating well.

Here is a list of things, many of which you can find in this book, that make good meals to pack.

Muffins

Fresh fruit and fruit salad

Nori rolls and vegetable sushi

Main-dish salads like pasta, potato, and grain salads

Slaws and side-dish salads

Marinated vegetables

Roasted vegetables

Frittatas, quiches, and casseroles

cheese sandwiches for cheese lovers

When it comes to cheese sandwiches, life has more to offer than an old-fashioned grilled cheese with its slice of dill pickle on the side. These enticing sandwiches feature some of the wide variety of cheeses now available in supermarket delis. If you haven’t tried them, splurge a little and introduce yourself to a few new favorites.

Use about ⅓ to ½ cup of grated cheese for each slice of bread.

sun-dried tomato pesto

Serves 4 as a sandwich

Total time: 20 minutes

Pesto and smoked mozzarella cheese baked together on bread make a scrumptious combination for a party appetizer. On crackers or small rounds of bread, this will easily serve 10 to 12.

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed)

½ cup chopped walnuts

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves

freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

French or Italian bread, or crackers

1½ cups sliced smoked mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°.

In a small bowl, soak the sun-dried tomatoes in boiling water to cover for about 15 minutes. When the tomatoes are soft, drain them and reserve the soaking water.

Meanwhile, spread the walnuts on an unoiled baking sheet and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown. Cool for 1 to 2 minutes.

Combine the sun-dried tomatoes, basil, garlic, oil, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the reserved tomato-soaking water in the food processor and purée, scraping the sides of the bowl a few times. Add the walnuts and process until combined.

Spread a slice of bread or a cracker with pesto, top with a thin slice of mozzarella, and serve.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 474 CALORIES, 19.9 G PROTEIN, 25.7 G FAT, 44.6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 38 MG CHOLESTEROL, 919.4 MG SODIUM, 6.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

gruyère with caramelized onions

Gruyère has a robust, nutty character that perfectly complements the sweetness of caramelized onions. If using dried thyme, add it to the skillet with the salt and sugar.

Total time: 45 minutes

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups thinly sliced onions

⅛ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme (½ teaspoon dried)

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1½ to 2 cups grated Gruyère cheese

4 slices crusty bread

In a heavy skillet, heat the olive oil on medium-low heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the salt and sugar, lower the heat, cover the pan, and continue to cook for about 10 more minutes, until the onions are brown. Add the fresh thyme and pepper and continue to sauté for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Sprinkle ¼ of the cheese on each slice of bread. Place on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, until the cheese is melted. Top each sandwich with a quarter of the onions and serve.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 408 CALORIES, 18.9 G PROTEIN, 20.5 G FAT, 37.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 11.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 44.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 569 MG SODIUM, 2.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

cheddar with apple slices

Use a good sharp Cheddar, like the kind you can get in Vermont, Wisconsin, New York, or England. Choose apples that are tart and crisp.

Total time: 20 minutes

4 slices crusty bread

your favorite mustard to taste

2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese

1½ cups thinly sliced apples

little cornichons or your favorite sweet pickles

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Spread each slice of bread with a little mustard. and sprinkle with ½ cup of the cheese. Place on a baking tray and bake for about 10 minutes, until the cheese is melted and bubbly. Top the hot sandwiches with the apple slices and serve with cornichons or sweet pickles alongside.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 425 CALORIES, 20.1 G PROTEIN, 21.7 G FAT, 38.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 12.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 59.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 738.4 MG SODIUM, 4.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

smoked gouda with sautéed greens

The sweetness of the smoked gouda and the peppery flavor of the mustard greens combine well with a dark pumpernickel bread. This sandwich is more than just a snack; it’s satisfying enough to make a meal.

Total time: 20 minutes

4 cups mustard greens, rinsed and dried

¼ teaspoon salt

4 slices pumpernickel bread

2 cups grated smoked Gouda cheese

Preheat the broiler.

Chop the greens into small pieces. In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil and garlic on medium heat until sizzling. Add the greens and sauté for about 3 minutes, until limp and tender. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

Lightly toast the bread and top each with ½ cup of the grated cheese. Broil the sandwiches for 3 to 5 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly and beginning to brown. Remove and top with the sautéed greens. Serve immediately.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 411 CALORIES, 19.5 G PROTEIN, 24.5 G FAT, 29 G CARBOHYDRATES, 11.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 64.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 997.3 MG SODIUM, 3.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

marinated feta with pita

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight

Baking time: 15 minutes

One bite of this sandwich will instantly wake up your taste buds. Sharp feta cheese, salty sun-dried tomatoes, and piquant vinegars make a strong statement. If you like, use dill or oregano in place of the marjoram.

The marinated feta in this delicious sandwich is also a good addition to fresh greens and vegetable salads. In a sealed container in the refrigerator, it will keep for up to 1 week.

3 to 4 sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed)

2 cups cubed feta cheese (½-inch pieces)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram (1 teaspoon dried)

2 tablespoons red wine or balsamic vinegar or a mix

2 to 3 pita breads (7½ inches across)

Place the sun-dried tomatoes in boiling water to cover for 15 minutes, until soft.

In a small bowl, combine the feta cubes, marjoram, olive oil, vinegar, and pepper. Chop the softened sun-dried tomatoes, add them to the bowl, and mix well. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325°.

Cut the pita breads in half, divide the feta among them, and stuff it inside the pockets. Wrap the stuffed pitas in aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes, or until hot. Unwrap and serve immediately.

PER 3.3-OUNCE SERVING: 269 CALORIES, 9.8 G PROTEIN, 13.4 G FAT, 27.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 6.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 33.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 724.2 MG SODIUM, 1.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

portabello sandwiches

A portabello sandwich is simple and quick, whether it’s for a workday meal or a party. Broiling, roasting, or grilling heightens the rich flavor of these succulent fungi, which can be layered with a variety of other vegetables, cheeses, and condiments for a mouthwatering sandwich. Cooked portabellos refrigerate well, so you can cook extra and consider it another sandwich waiting to be made.

Here we offer three of our favorite combinations, but we encourage improvisation. Our Easy Russian Dressing and Chipotle Mayonnaise Dressing both make about ⅔ cup—plenty for four sandwiches.

Serve Portabello Sandwiches alone or with a cup of soup and a tossed salad.

portabello prep for all three sandwiches

3 tablespoons olive oil

dash of salt and ground black pepper to taste

4 portabellos, rinsed and dried (about 8 ounces)

Preheat the oven to 400° or turn on the broiler.

Combine the oil, garlic, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and set aside.

Remove the stems from the portabellos and slice the caps into ½- to ¾-inch-thick slices. Brush the portabello slices with the oil mixture and arrange at least 1 inch apart on a baking sheet.

To roast, bake on one side for 4 to 8 minutes, then turn with a spatula and bake for 4 to 8 minutes more, until tender and juicy. To broil, cook for 3 to 5 minutes, turn with a spatula, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes on the other side.

portabello reuben

Moosewood’s Tempeh Reuben has been a customer favorite for years and, although its popularity never wanes, this portabello version gives it a run for the money.

easy russian dressing

¼ cup diced tomato

⅓ cup prepared mayonnaise

1 tablespoon chopped scallions

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

dash of Tabasco sauce or other hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon tomato paste (optional)

sandwich

8 slices plain or toasted rye bread

4 sliced cooked portabellos

1 cup drained sauerkraut

1½ cups grated Swiss cheese

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Combine all of the dressing ingredients in a blender or food processor and purée until smooth and creamy. Spread Russian Dressing on 4 slices of bread and place plain side down on a baking pan. Layer each slice with ¼ of the portabello slices, ¼ cup of the sauerkraut, and a generous ⅓ cup of the cheese.

Top each sandwich with a second slice of bread spread with dressing, and bake for about 4 minutes, until the cheese melts. Serve immediately.

PER 8.5-OUNCE SERVING: 501 CALORIES, 18.8 G PROTEIN, 30.6 G FAT, 39.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 10.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 43.9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1370.9 MG SODIUM, 5.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

portabello spinach & tomato sandwich

Inspired by BLTs, here’s a sandwich for the twenty-first century.

6 ounces spinach, rinsed and stemmed

1 or 2 loaves whole grain French or Italian bread *

4 sliced cooked portabellos

2 tomatoes, cut into 8 slices

salt and ground black pepper to taste

* Choose a loaf or loaves long enough to make four 5- or 6-inch sandwiches.

If you wish, steam the spinach until just wilted and then strain, pressing out the juice.

Cut the bread in half lengthwise and on the bottom half layer the portabello slices, spinach, and tomato slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Replace the top of the loaf and cut into four sandwiches.

PER 10-OUNCE SERVING: 441 CALORIES, 12.8 G PROTEIN, 14.5 G FAT, 66 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 773 MG SODIUM, 6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

portabello chipotle sandwich

Our Chipotle Mayonnaise Dressing is fabulous with robust roasted portabellos. You may find yourself eating two sandwiches before you realize what you’re doing! We suggest using Monterey Jack, Fontina, Muenster, or some other similarly mild cheese for the best balance of flavors.

chipotle mayonnaise dressing

2 tablespoons chipotles in adobo sauce *

6 tablespoons prepared mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lime juice

sandwich

4 multi-grain or other whole grain rolls

4 fresh lettuce leaves, rinsed and dried

4 sliced cooked portabellos

½ red onion, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, cut into 8 slices

⅔ pound sliced mild cheese (optional)

* We recommend La Torre brand canned chipotles in adobo sauce. The chipotles are smoked hot peppers and the adobo sauce is a spicy thick tomato purée.

Mince the chipotle peppers. Combine them with the mayonnaise and lime juice in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Slice open each roll, spread with about 1½ tablespoons of the dressing, and place a lettuce leaf on one half. Layer on ¼ of the sliced portabellos, ¼ of the sliced red onions, 2 tomato slices, and, if you wish, a slice or two of cheese.

PER 9.5-OUNCE SERVING: 442 CALORIES, 9.7 G PROTEIN, 22.1 G FAT, 57.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 5.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 603.7 MG SODIUM, 8.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

roasted vegetable sandwiches

Would the comic strip Blondie have achieved a cherished spot in the American psyche had it not been for our vicarious enjoyment of Dagwood’s sandwich-making? His refrigerator was always stocked with everything you’d ever consider putting in a sandwich.

Here are two of our favorite Moosewood sandwiches with distinctly ethnic roots. So pull out the fixings and give these sandwich combos a try a la Dagwood.

french-style sandwich

Serves 3

mediterranean-style sandwich

1 cup sliced apples *

½ cup thinly sliced onions

1 cup thickly sliced mushrooms

1 tablespoon melted butter

1 tablespoon prepared mayonnaise

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

20-inch baguette

1 cup arugula

½ cup packed grated Gruyère cheese

* We recommend using a tart-sweet variety like Crispin or Granny Smith.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Lightly oil a 7 × 11-inch baking dish.

Toss the apples, onions, and mushrooms with the melted butter and place them in the prepared baking dish. Roast for 15 minutes, until the apples and vegetables are tender and have released some of their juices.

Meanwhile, combine the mayonnaise and the dill in a small bowl. When the vegetables are roasted, slice the baguette in half lengthwise. Cover one half of the baguette with the arugula, spoon on the roasted mixture, and top with the grated cheese. Spread the dilled mayonnaise on the other half and put the baguette together. Slice it into thirds to make three sandwiches.

PER 9-OUNCE SERVING: 514 CALORIES, 17.6 G PROTEIN, 16 G FAT, 75.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 34.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 804.3 MG SODIUM, 2.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

Serves 3

Total time: 40 minutes

vinaigrette

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon minced dried rosemary, ground fennel seeds, or dried thyme

pinch of ground black pepper

sandwich fixings

1 tiny eggplant, peeled and sliced *

¾ cup thinly sliced red bell peppers

½ cup thinly sliced onions

20-inch baguette

1½ cups mesclun or mixed baby greens

½ cup grated smoked mozzarella, feta, or Parmesan cheese

1 cup thinly sliced tomatoes

8 fresh basil leaves, whole or chopped

* About ½ pound eggplant works well. Cut it into ¼- to ½-inch-thick rounds.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, the herb of your choice, and the black pepper and set aside. Spread the eggplant rounds in the bottom of a 9 × 13-inch or larger baking dish. Add the bell peppers and onions, keeping the vegetables in a single layer, if possible. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette and pour the rest over the vegetables.

Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until the eggplant is very tender.

When the vegetables are roasted, cut the baguette in half lengthwise. Brush the cut surfaces of each half with the reserved vinaigrette. Layer one half of the baguette with the greens, place the roasted eggplant rounds along the length of the loaf, and cover with the bell peppers and onions. Top with the cheese, tomato slices, and the basil leaves. Cover with the other baguette half and slice into thirds to make three sandwiches.

PER 14-OUNCE SERVING: 611 CALORIES, 16.3 G PROTEIN, 27 G FAT, 77.5 G CARBOHYDRATES, 5.9 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 18.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,338.8 MG SODIUM, 3.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

soy foods

The soybean is an impressive legume; there is no other as nutritious or versatile. Soybeans are almost 40 percent protein, compared to the approximately 20 percent protein content of other beans. They contain seven of the eight essential amino acids and are also a good source of iron and vitamins B1 and B2. Significantly higher in fat than other beans, soy provides slow-burning calories and longer-lasting energy and satisfaction.

Soybeans, which have been cultivated for at least 2,500 years, are a staple for millions of people. Soybeans are eaten whole, pressed for oil, ground for meal, and made into milk. You can get them sprouted, toasted, fermented and compressed, curdled, cultured, isolated and extruded. For centuries, soybeans have been the wellspring for soy sauce, miso, tofu, tempeh, bean sprouts, soy milk, and soy flour, and now a host of new soy products has flooded the market.

When Moosewood first opened its doors in 1973, many of the potential health benefits of soy were not widely known. But we began right away using lots of soy products because of their versatility, malleability, and ability to absorb other flavors.

Tofu is king at Moosewood: we press, bake, braise, freeze, and shred it. We barbecue, jerk, and marinate it, and we serve it completely unadorned in miso soup. It is the primary ingredient in burgers, pita sandwiches, burrito fillings, and stuffed vegetables.

Much as we love tofu, it’s only one form of soy essential in our kitchen. Soy sauce not only flavors our Asian sautés but deepens the flavor of many of our bean dishes and soups regardless of ethnicity. Miso, a salty soy paste with the consistency of peanut butter, is the key ingredient in one of our most popular salad dressings and is the secret addition to our “old-fashioned” split-pea soup. Soy milk is the basis for our favorite vegan rice pudding and can be substituted for milk in many recipes.

Indonesians first cultured soybeans to make the meaty soy food called tempeh. Ounce for ounce, tempeh’s protein content is almost as high as chicken’s, and it is a boon to vegetarians because it contains vitamin B12, a B vitamin not otherwise found in the plant world. Tempeh, like tofu, is a magnet for seasonings. Whether spiced or marinated, baked, sautéed, or crisp-fried, it can accompany and complement a variety of dishes from around the world. It is at the heart of our Reuben sandwich.

We’ve included many new soy recipes throughout this book, and you’ll find soy in some unlikely places, like lasagna, mashed potatoes, strudel, and frittatas, as well as in Asian fare.

muffuletta

A pungent spread of minced olives and vegetables is the exciting condiment in this extravagantly robust sandwich. The bread must have a good, thick crust to absorb the marinade and hold in the lavish layers of filling.

Total time: 40 minutes

Bring this for lunch, and you may find yourself dreaming of Tuscany all afternoon. It’s great picnic fare with cool drinks or a good Montepulciano. You can make extra olive spread and keep it for several days.

olive salad

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 large garlic clove, pressed

½ cup minced kalamata olives

½ cup minced Spanish olives

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

¼ cup peeled and minced carrots

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ cup minced celery

2 to 4 tablespoons chopped toasted pine nuts or walnuts (optional)

½ cup minced fresh basil (optional)

1 loaf of crusty Italian or French bread (10-inch round or a bâtard)

4 to 6 slices of meatless deli “cold cuts” made from seasoned soy protein and/or wheat gluten

4 to 6 tomato slices

4 to 6 slices of provolone, Jarlsberg, Swiss, or smoked Gouda cheese

4 to 6 leaves of green or red lettuce

In a bowl, combine all of the olive salad ingredients.

Using a serrated bread knife, slice the loaf of bread in half, separating the top crust from the bottom crust. Hollow out the bread halves by scooping out the soft center, leaving two shells with 1-inch-thick crusts.

Spread the olive salad evenly over the bottom shell. Layer on the deli slices, tomatoes, and cheese. Cover with lettuce leaves and top with the upper crust. Slice into four to six wedges or cross sections.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 460 CALORIES, 16.7 G PROTEIN, 23 G FAT, 47.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 6.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 20.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,777.3 MG SODIUM, 1.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variation

Preheat the oven to 400°. Assemble the muffuletta without adding the lettuce. Wrap in aluminum foil and heat in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until the cheese has melted. Open the top and add the lettuce before serving.

italian tofu spread

People who still believe the cliché that vegan and dairyless dishes are austere or boring need only broaden their experience with well-prepared dishes like this one to change their minds.

At Moosewood our vegan sandwiches are sought after by vegans and non-vegans alike.

This tofu spread features a rich, multifaceted dressing and can double as a sandwich spread, salad, or dip. Serve it stuffed in pita bread, on crusty Italian bread or focaccia, or with a salad of mixed fresh greens.

1 cake firm tofu (16 ounces)

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed)

½ cup toasted whole almonds *

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons water

⅓ cup chopped fresh basil

2 cups diced fresh tomatoes

½ teaspoon salt

ground black pepper to taste

* Toast almonds in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 5 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes or so before grinding.

Place the tofu between two plates, weight the top plate with a heavy object, and press while you prepare the other ingredients. In a small bowl, soak the sun-dried tomatoes in hot water to cover. Set aside.

Finely grind the almonds in the bowl of a food processor. Add the oil, garlic, lemon juice, and water and process to a fairly smooth consistency. Transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the basil and fresh tomatoes.

Drain the tofu, crumble it into bite-sized pieces, and add it to the tomato mixture. Drain and mince the sun-dried tomatoes. Stir in the sun-dried tomatoes, salt, and black pepper to taste.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 233 CALORIES, 10.9 G PROTEIN, 16.7 G FAT, 15.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 475.6 MG SODIUM, 4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variation

For a smoother-textured salad that makes a nice spread for crostini or crackers, whirl the tofu in the food processor with the oil, garlic, almonds, lemon juice, and water. Mix in the fresh and sun-dried tomatoes and the basil by hand. Top with slivers of roasted red pepper, a dab of sautéed greens like escarole or spinach, or a sprinkling of chopped fresh basil.

thai tofu spread

Serves 8

Total time: 40 minutes

Our staff and thousands of our customers agree that this sure tastes good. Some seasoned tofu is quite salty, so be sure to taste the spread before adding soy sauce—you may not need to add any.

At Moosewood, we serve this Thai Tofu Spread in toasted pita bread with lettuce and tomato slices or as an appetizer with sesame crackers or rice cakes and vegetable sticks.

16 ounces tofu-kan or other seasoned tofu

⅔ cup diced red bell peppers

⅓ cup minced scallions

⅓ cup chopped fresh basil and/or cilantro

½ cup reduced-fat coconut milk

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

2 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice

⅓ cup peanut butter

1 fresh green chile, minced (seeded for a milder hot)

soy sauce to taste

Coarsely grate the tofu-kan by hand or in a mouli-julienne; food processors turn the tofu into mush. In a bowl, toss the grated tofu with the bell peppers, scallions, and fresh basil and/or cilantro.

In a blender, combine the coconut milk, ginger, lemon or lime juice, peanut butter, and some of the minced chiles, and purée until smooth. Taste and add more of the chile if you want a spicier sauce.

Pour the dressing over the tofu mixture and toss well. Add soy sauce and more lemon or lime juice to taste.

PER 4-OUNCE SERVING: 123 CALORIES, 7.6 G PROTEIN, 8.6 G FAT, 6.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 53 MG SODIUM, 1.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

five ethnic egg salads

Total time: about 30 minutes

We had a great time tinkering with this perennial favorite. The simplest egg salad made with fresh eggs, crisp celery, a good mayonnaise, and quality mustard is hard to beat. But hard-boiled eggs and mayonnaise are a fine vehicle for a host of other ingredients and seasonings.

Here are five egg salads that can be eaten as sandwiches, spreads, or canapés, or stuffed into ripe juicy tomatoes shells, crisp cucumber shells, or bell pepper halves.

Serve any of our egg salads as a sandwich between slices of whole wheat bread, baguette, or a coarse country-style bread with tender leaf lettuce and sliced tomato. As an appetizer, serve with sesame crackers, pita, crostini, tortilla chips, or rye crackers—depending on the particular “citizenship” of the salad.

Reduce the fat content of any of these salads by discarding the cooked yolks of five of the eggs. If you don’t have a 2-quart saucepan, a larger one is okay—just use enough water to immerse the eggs completely.

8 eggs

4 cups cold water

Choose one of the following:

creole

½ cup chopped celery

¼ cup diced red bell peppers

2 teaspoons minced garlic

¼ cup thinly sliced scallion greens

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme (1 teaspoon dried)

1 to 3 teaspoons Tabasco sauce or other hot sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1½ tablespoons pitted, chopped kalamata olives (about 6 olives)

greek

3 tablespoons chopped, toasted walnuts *

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh dill

¼ cup prepared mayonnaise

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

* Toast on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for about 5 minutes, until golden brown.

italian

1 teaspoon minced or pressed garlic

2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

¼ cup diced red bell peppers

3 tablespoons minced fresh basil

¼ cup diced celery

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1½ tablespoons chopped Spanish olives

mexican

3 tablespoons chopped celery

3 tablespoons chopped sun-dried tomatoes (soaked in hot water if leathery)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon adobo or Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

¼ teaspoon salt

scandinavian

¼ cup chopped celery

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

¼ cup thinly sliced scallion greens or red onions

1 tablespoon capers, drained and large ones chopped

1 to 2 tablespoons prepared white horseradish

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Bring the eggs and water to a boil in a covered 2-quart saucepan. Reduce the heat to a rapid simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

While the eggs cook, prepare the ethnic flavorings of your choice. Submerge the cooked eggs in cold water and crack the shells to facilitate peeling. As soon as the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel them and transfer to a large bowl.

Mash the eggs well with a potato masher or fork. Add the remaining ingredients (except the salt and pepper, if you want to add them to taste). Stir everything gently to combine and serve.

CREOLE: PER 4-OUNCE SERVING: 168 CALORIES, 10.4 G PROTEIN, 11.6 G FAT, 5.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 336.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 383.4 MG SODIUM, 0.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

GREEK: PER 3.5-OUNCE SERVING: 194 CALORIES, 10.6 G PROTEIN, 15.1 G FAT, 4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 336.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 480.9 MG SODIUM, 0.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

ITALIAN: PER 3.5-OUNCE SERVING: 163 CALORIES, 10.2 G PROTEIN, 11.5 G FAT, 4.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 336.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 368.5 MG SODIUM, 0.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

MEXICAN: PER 3.5-OUNCE SERVING: 177 CALORIES, 10.8 G PROTEIN, 12.1 G FAT, 6.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 336.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 461.8 MG SODIUM, 0.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

SCANDINAVIAN: PER 3.5-OUNCE SERVING: 164 CALORIES, 10.2 G PROTEIN, 11.6 G FAT, 4.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 336.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 304.6 MG SODIUM, 0.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

tofu burgers

Serves 8

At nearly every Saturday lunch, we serve big baked Tofu Burgers open-faced on a thick slice of toasted whole wheat bread, with fresh lettuce beneath, a generous tomato slice on top, and homemade Easy Russian Dressing over all, yum!

Baking time: 30 minutes

You can replace the basil with marjoram and combine the herbs in any proportion you like as long as the total amount of dried herbs equals 1 tablespoon. If using fresh herbs, the total amount should be about 3 tablespoons.

This mix can also be used to stuff portabello mushrooms or to make tofu “meatballs,” which will bake in about 20 minutes. Tightly covered and refrigerated, the uncooked burger mix will keep for 1 to 2 days. Or you can form the mix into patties and freeze them: To serve, just thaw at room temperature and bake.

2 cakes firm tofu (16 ounces each)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups diced onions

1 cup peeled and grated carrots

1 cup diced bell peppers

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon dried dill

⅔ cup chopped walnuts

1 cup bread crumbs*

2 tablespoons tahini

2 tablespoons light miso

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 to 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (optional)

* Pulverize stale or lightly toasted whole wheat, sourdough, or French bread in a blender or food processor.

Sandwich the tofu between two plates and rest a heavy weight on the top plate.

Press for about 15 minutes; then drain the expressed liquid from the bottom plate.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté the onions, carrots, peppers, oregano, basil, and dill for about 7 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender. Crumble the pressed tofu into a large bowl. Stir in the walnuts, bread crumbs, tahini, miso, soy sauce, and mustard, if using. Add the sautéed vegetables and mix well.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Generously oil a baking sheet.

Using about ¾ cup of burger mix per burger, form eight patties by hand and place them on the baking sheet about 2 inches apart. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the burgers are firm and browned. Serve hot.

PER 7.5-OUNCE SERVING: 279 CALORIES, 14.2 G PROTEIN, 17.8 G FAT, 20.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 430.4 MG SODIUM, 3.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

dixie burgers

Colorful, tasty, and full of vitamins and minerals from sweet potatoes, greens, and tofu, these burgers are both low-fat and high-fiber. What more could you want?

Baking time: 20 minutes

Serve on a bun with one of our Two Barbeque Sauces, smoked Cheddar cheese, tomato and onion slices, and pickles. Accompany with sweet potato fries and pickled okra.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

pinch of salt

2 cups grated raw sweet potatoes

⅓ cup minced celery

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

½ cup minced red bell peppers

2 cups stemmed and finely chopped raw collard greens or kale

1 tablespoon soy sauce

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1½ cups cooked black-eyed peas (15-ounce can, drained)*

4 ounces firm tofu (optional)

* ½ cup of dried black-eyed peas will yield about 1½ cups cooked.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously oil a baking sheet.

Heat the oil in a heavy or nonstick frying pan. Add the onions, garlic, and salt and sauté on medium-high heat for 10 minutes, until the onions are soft and translucent.

Add the grated sweet potatoes, celery, thyme, and allspice and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the bell peppers and the collard greens or kale, cover, and cook on medium-low heat for another 5 minutes, until the greens are just tender. Remove from the heat and stir in the soy sauce and black pepper.

Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, pulse the black-eyed peas and, if using, the tofu until the peas are mashed, but not smooth. Combine the sautéed vegetables with the mashed mixture and form into 4 patties.

Bake on the prepared baking sheet for 20 minutes or until firm.

PER 8-OUNCE SERVING: 188 CALORIES, 6.1 G PROTEIN, 4.4 G FAT, 32.5 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 490.4 MG SODIUM, 5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

falafel burgers

Yields 8 burgers

In Israel, falafels are healthful and tasty street food. These burgers have that distinctive and appealing falafel flavor, minus the fat of deep-frying and plus the boost of protein from the tofu.

Baking time: 30 minutes

Stuff these patties in pita pockets with lettuce, tomatoes, and either fresh Yogurt Tahini Dressing, or try our bottled Moosewood Restaurant Lemon Tahini Dressing. Or arrange the burgers artfully on a bed of greens and drizzle with any Middle Eastern–style dressing.

1 cup diced onions

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup diced red bell peppers

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon ground coriander pinch of cayenne, or to taste

1 cake firm tofu (12 ounces), pressed and crumbled *

1½ cups cooked chickpeas (15-ounce can, drained)

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup tahini

½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

½ cup bread crumbs, as needed

chopped scallions or thinly sliced red onion rings

Yogurt Tahini Dressing

* Sandwich the tofu between two plates and rest a heavy can or book on the top plate. Press for about 15 minutes and then drain the expressed liquid.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously oil a baking sheet.

In a 9-inch skillet, sauté the onions and garlic in the olive oil on medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers, turmeric, coriander, and cayenne and sauté for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

While the vegetables cook, combine the tofu, chickpeas, lemon juice, soy sauce, and sesame oil in the bowl of a food processor (see Note). Process until well combined, but not a paste. It maybe necessary to stir the contents once or twice, as it will be quite dry.

Transfer the tofu mixture to a large bowl and add the sautéed vegetables, parsley, tahini, and salt. Mix everything together well with your hands. If the mixture is too sticky, add up to ½ cup bread crumbs. Add more salt to taste.

Shape ½-cup portions of the burger mix into 8 patties and arrange on the prepared baking sheet with a bit of space between them. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden, juicy, and firm. Decorate with scallions or onion rings and top with YogurtTahini Dressing.

PER 5-OUNCE SERVING: 185 CALORIES, 8.2 G PROTEIN, 9.2 G FAT, 19.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 424.5 MG SODIUM, 3.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

If you don’t have a food processor, don’t worry. Falafels have a much longer history than food processors. Vigorously mash the chickpeas with a potato masher. Blend in the liquids, and then add the tofu and tahini and persevere with the mashing. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.

surveying the seaweed scene

For Americans, sea vegetable cookery is a fairly new thing. Twenty years ago, the typical shopper didn’t add seaweed to the grocery list, and many people tried seaweed only when feeling adventurous at an Asian restaurant. Gradually, however, seaweed is gaining a foothold in the American diet. Sun-dried seaweeds are available in health food stores and ethnic markets throughout North America. Frozen, blanched, or salted fresh seaweed is also often available. Our local Ithaca supermarkets have fresh sushi deli counters that are stocked daily and always busy.

In Japan, Korea, the Philippines, and Indonesia, and on the Hawaiian Islands, seaweed is part of the daily diet. In the Canadian maritime provinces, dulse is considered an improvement on the potato chip and sold at pubs as a snack to have with a pint. In the Ukraine, a canned beet-tomato-algae mixture called sea cabbage is widely available. Seaweed can be steamed, sautéed, baked, dried, and preserved in brine. Most types can be eaten raw and some are good frozen.

Seaweed absorbs high concentrations of elements from the sea, which gives it immense nutritive value. Rich in vitamins and minerals (A, E, C, D, Niacin, B12, folic acid, phosphorus, calcium, iron, iodine), seaweed also provides a full complement of trace elements. Many seaweeds contain oils—which may keep plants from drying out between tides—but calories and cholesterol are negligible. Three ounces of dried nori supplies half the daily adult protein requirement, and 1 tablespoon of cooked hijiki is about equal to the calcium in a glass of whole milk.

Fresh seaweed is not as fishy or salty as you might expect. Most varieties have unique, delicate flavors ranging from beanlike or nutlike to a taste reminiscent of arugula or parsley with a hint of the sweetness of grapes. But you really have to try them to appreciate their variety. Abalone, cloud ears, truffles, sea grapes, Irish moss, and sea lettuce are all enticing on their own. Most fresh seaweeds keep for a few days sealed in plastic bags with a little seawater and refrigerated in the crisper bin.

A few of the most common types of Japanese dried seaweed available in U.S. markets are hijiki, konbu, nori, arame, funori, and wakame. Korean dried seaweed includes kim, tasima, parae, nongmichae, mojaban, and miyok. Chinese dried seaweed includes fah tsoi, hai dai, and chi choy. Dulse and kelp are the best-known Western varieties.

Most dried seaweeds can be rehydrated by soaking in water or steaming. Dried hijiki can be crumbled straight into the rice-cooking pot. Wakame requires a 20-minute soak before it’s added to a dish, and konbu is often simmered to make a broth. Soups made with seaweed tend to be best when newly prepared.

If you haven’t ventured into the seaweed scene yet, give it a try. For recipes, check out Asian or natural foods cookbooks or the Web, and see this page and this page. It’s hard to find a healthier habit to get hooked on.

tofu hijiki burgers

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Baking time: 30 to 40 minutes

This is a good-looking burger, flecked with green, orange, and black. Moosewood’s Susan Harville was inspired to create it after trying a burger at Dojo in New York’s East Village.

These burgers are delicious topped with tomato slices and served alongside Cucumber Peanut Salad and brown rice, or eat them as a sandwich on a bun slathered with Avocado Wasabi Dressing.

¼ cup dried hijiki seaweed

1 cup peeled and grated carrots

2 tablespoons pressed garlic

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger root

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

24 ounces firm tofu, pressed*

½ cup minced scallions

¼ cup sesame seeds

¼ cup light miso

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

* Sandwich the tofu between two plates and rest a heavy can or book on the top plate. Press for about 15 minutes; then drain the expressed liquid.

Rinse the hijiki in a sieve or strainer, and place it in a bowl with warm water to cover and set aside to soak for 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously oil a baking sheet.

Sauté the carrots, garlic, and ginger in the oil for about 5 minutes, until the carrots are limp. In a bowl, mash or crumble the pressed tofu. Add the cooked carrots and the scallions, sesame seeds, miso, and sesame oil and stir well. Drain the soaked hijiki and then chop it and stir it into the mix. Add a little more miso, if you wish.

Use about ½ cup of the mix per burger and form into patties. Place the burgers on the baking sheet and bake until firm and golden, 30 to 40 minutes.

PER 6.5-OUNCE SERVING: 206 CALORIES, 12.4 G PROTEIN, 11.9 G FAT, 16.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 376.6 MG SODIUM, 3.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variation

Pan-fry for about 10 minutes, turning once after 5 minutes.

mushroom pecan burgers