grains 
Creating a new grain dish is always a welcome challenge, partly because most of us are crazy about starch, but also because grains are such willing vehicles for innovation.
Almost any grain or food made from grain, when prepared with just a pat of butter and a sprinkling of salt, can be perfectly satisfying. Yet most grains combine so successfully with other ingredients and seasonings that new pilafs, risottos, and salads are always on the horizon.
Brown rice, bulghur, barley, oats, and whole wheat bread have always been mainstays at Moosewood. We love the taste and depth of whole grains. They are earthy and fragrant, nutty and sweet, and they cook up creamy, chewy, or fluffy. With each new cuisine we’ve explored, we’ve discovered a new grain or variety of grain: basmati rice from India, arborio rice from Italy, black rice from Thailand, red rice from Arkansas, and wild rice from the marshy waters of Michigan, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, an ancient and present-day gift from Native American tribes. We think of quinoa as an Incan gift from Peru, oats as from Scotland, and millet from Africa by way of China. Grits were refined in the deep South and blue corn in the Southwest. We were tickled to discover that the largest U.S. grower of kasha is right in our backyard, in Penn Yan, New York.
And whole grains are nutritious. They are composed of a bran layer rich in vitamins, minerals, and fiber; a germ layer that houses most of the grain’s protein and fat; and the largest layer, the endosperm, which is predominantly carbohydrates. When grain is refined or polished, the bran and germ are removed and, alas, so are many nutrients and much of the fiber.
At Moosewood, we use quick-cooking grains like bulghur, rolled oats, and cornmeal as thickeners for soups and stews. We layer cooked rice, bulghur, and couscous into casseroles, and turn to barley, wild rice, and quinoa for stuffing vegetables. We resurrect day-old whole wheat bread as croutons for soups or salads, and for bread crumbs to top our casseroles, bread fish filets, and bind tofu burgers. To revitalize a boring breakfast routine, we cook rice, barley, or millet with extra water and a bit of sweetener for creamy cereals.
Grains partner with every other food group: vegetables, cheese, legumes, fruits, nuts and seeds, seafood, and seaweed. Grains not only combine well with other foods, they mesh well with other grains. A classic is kasha and farfalle or bow-tie pasta, but we also make pilafs of red rice and long-grain brown rice, basmati rice and wild rice, and with rice and vermicelli. We make a delicious duo of grits and quinoa. It’s best to stir dressing and seasonings into grains still warm from cooking, because then they absorb flavor better.
Because grains are such an integral part of our repertoire, you’ll find them throughout this book. Find selection and storage suggestions in our discussion of pantry items and information in the Guide to Ingredients.
Serves 4
Total time: 40 minutes
Easy, homey, earthy, and satisfying—there, that about sums it up. Our colorful sauté made with nut-brown bulghur and vibrant green spinach, and fragrant with garlic and dill, is excellent topped with grated feta cheese.
Bulghur is available in four grades: fine, medium, coarse, and extra-coarse—also known as “half-cut.” The fine and medium grades require less time to cook and are fluffier and less chewy than the coarse grades. Don’t confuse
bulghur with cracked wheat, which is not precooked and must be simmered for at least 20 minutes.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup minced scallions
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 cup medium-grain bulghur
1¼ cups hot water
½ teaspoon salt
3 cups rinsed, stemmed, and finely chopped fresh spinach
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (1 teaspoon dried)
freshly ground black pepper to taste
a few lemon wedges
In a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, warm the olive oil on medium heat. Add the scallions and garlic and sauté until softened and fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the bulghur and sauté for another minute, stirring to coat the grains with oil.
Pour in the water and salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the spinach and dill and cook for 8 to 10 minutes more, until the water is absorbed but the spinach is still bright green. Stir with a fork to fluff and add pepper to taste.
Serve with lemon wedges all around.
PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 193 CALORIES, 6.4 G PROTEIN, 4.2 G FAT, 35.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 321.7 MG SODIUM, 9.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
bulghur
with
caramelized onions
Serves 4
Total time: 40 minutes
Aromatic browned onions sweeten the rugged wheat flavor of bulghur in this simply prepared side dish that is excellent with North African or Middle Eastern-style grilled fish or stews. Add some chopped toasted almonds or walnuts to the pilaf and you have a great filling for stuffed cabbage rolls.
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups thinly sliced onions
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup medium-grain bulghur
¼ cup raisins or currants
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⅓ cups boiling water
ground black pepper to taste
salt or soy sauce to taste
Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onions, thyme, and salt and sauté on high heat, stirring often, until golden, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat, cover, and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and brown.
Stir in the bulghur, raisins, cinnamon, and boiling water. Cover tightly and simmer gently until all of the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Add pepper and salt or soy sauce to taste.
PER 8-OUNCE SERVING: 280 CALORIES, 6.9 G PROTEIN, 7.9 G FAT, 49.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 314.6 MG SODIUM, 9.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
couscous
pilaf with pine nuts
Serves 4
Total time: 30 minutes
When you need a last-minute side that has a festive look, this golden pilaf, speckled with red and green vegetables and rich with pine nuts, is just the ticket.
1½ cups couscous
1½ cups boiling water or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 cup minced red bell peppers
½ cup minced scallions
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil*
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts**
* Or use 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh dill.
** Toast pine nuts in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.
Place the couscous, boiling water or stock, salt, and 1 teaspoon of the olive oil in a heatproof bowl. Cover and set aside for about 5 minutes. Uncover and fluff with a fork to break up any lumps. Set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a small skillet on medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, until it begins to turn golden. Add the bell peppers and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until tender. Remove from the heat and toss with the couscous. Stir in the scallions, parsley, basil, and lemon juice. Add black pepper to taste.
Stir in the pine nuts right before serving.
PER 8-OUNCE SERVING: 348 CALORIES, 11.8 G PROTEIN, 7.4 G FAT, 58.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 604.9 MG SODIUM, 4.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 6 to 8
Total time: 40 minutes
The more we use quinoa at Moosewood, the more we like it. This “superfood” of the Incas is high in protein, calcium, and phosphorus, with a delicate nutty flavor and a soft yet slightly crunchy consistency. It has a naturally-occuring bitter coating which is mostly removed during processing—a Quick cold-water rinse will eliminate any bitter residue that might remain.
1 cup quinoa
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup diced onions
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root
½ fresh green chile, minced, or ⅛ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
1¾ cups water
½ cup fresh or frozen green peas
1 or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
Place the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse it with cold water. Drain well.
In a heavy saucepan, warm the oil and sauté the onions on medium-high heat for 4 or 5 minutes. Add the ginger, chile or cayenne, and the quinoa and cook for a minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the turmeric, coriander, cinnamon, and salt and cook for another minute, stirring.
Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the peas, cover, and cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until the peas are tender and the water has been absorbed.
Before serving, fluff with a fork and add the cilantro, if you wish.
PER 6.5-OUNCE SERVING: 216 CALORIES, 6.5 G PROTEIN, 7.6 G FAT, 31.6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 327.9 MG SODIUM, 3.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 to 40 minutes
Crisp cooked red cabbage and fresh dill brighten this down-to-earth side dish, which is especially welcome on a cold winter’s evening.
1 cup diced onions
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups finely chopped red cabbage
¼ teaspoon caraway seeds
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup kasha
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 cups water or vegetable stock
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon soy sauce, or to taste
ground black pepper to taste
lemon wedges
dill sprigs
In a saucepan, sauté the onions and garlic in the oil for 5 minutes on medium-high heat. Add the red cabbage, caraway seeds, and salt and sauté for another 5 minutes.
While the vegetables cook, toss the kasha with the egg white in a small bowl until all of the grains are coated. Add the kasha to the sautéed vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes, adding a little more oil if necessary to prevent sticking.
Add the water or stock, cover, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the kasha is tender. Stir in the dill, parsley, and soy sauce, and add pepper to taste.
Serve immediately, garnished with lemon wedges and dill sprigs.
PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 140 CALORIES, 5.1 G PROTEIN, 3.6 G FAT, 24.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 253.4 MG SODIUM, 2.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 4
Total time: 1 hour
While true risottos are made with rice, the chewy kernels of pearled barley with their creamy exteriors make an excellent substitute. The outer hulls of pearled barley have been removed, allowing each grain to release surface starch as it cooks, which results in a silky sauce. Although the bran and hulls have the most nutrients, pearled barley is still an excellent source of dietary fiber.
2½ cups vegetable stock
½ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup sliced and well rinsed leeks*
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 cup pearled barley
½ cup dry white wine
½ teaspoon salt
¼ to ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
* Use the white and tenderest green parts only.
In a small saucepan, bring the stock, thyme, and saffron to a boil. Cover and set aside.
Warm the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the leeks and garlic and sauté on medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the barley and toss to coat it with oil. Add the wine and cook, stirring often, until the wine is absorbed.
Add the hot stock and bring to a boil; then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook the barley, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until the stock is absorbed and the barley is al dente, about 30 to 35 minutes. Add a little more stock or water if the barley is too chewy for your taste. Add the salt and ¼ cup of Parmesan and stir until the cheese melts.
Serve at once, passing more cheese at the table, if desired.
PER 5-OUNCE SERVING: 353 CALORIES, 10 G PROTEIN, 10.4 G FAT, 52.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 6.7 MG CHOLESTEROL, 566.2 MG SODIUM, 9.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Rice feeds more people than any other grain on the planet. In many Asian countries, rice is so important that the words for “rice” and “meal” are almost the same. Easy to store, simple to prepare, and nutritious, rice has the highest percentage of digestible, utilizable protein of any grain and contains iron, calcium, and B vitamins. At Moosewood, we serve rice at every meal. Long- or short-grain brown rice is most usual, but we also use brown and white basmati, wehani, jasmine, arborio, glutinous “sticky” rice, and black Thai rice.
Avoid parboiled or “converted” rice, which lacks valuable water soluble vitamins, and forget about rice labeled “minute” rice, which is nothing more than a dehydrated ghost of its former self.
Serves 6 to 8
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Serve this sunny, fruit-flavored rice with your favorite Caribbean, Indian, or Southeast Asian dishes. For an exotic one-dish meal, top it with an assortment of sautéed or roasted vegetables and steamed or baked marinated tofu.
1½ cups brown rice
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1½ teaspoons grated fresh ginger root
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2½ cups water
1 cup fresh or unsweetened drained canned pineapple chunks
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro or scallions
½ cup chopped toasted cashews (optional)*
* Toast cashews in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 5 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.
In a medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, combine the rice, oil, garlic, ginger, turmeric, and salt. Sauté for a minute or two, stirring constantly to prevent sticking. Add the water and bring to a boil.
When the water boils, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender. Stir in the pineapple, cilantro or scallions, and the cashews, if using.
PER 5-OUNCE SERVING: 138 CALORIES, 2.6 G PROTEIN, 2.1 G FAT, 27.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 151.6 MG SODIUM, 2.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 35 to 40 minutes
With classic flavors from south of the Rio Grande, this rice dish can serve as a foil for a more highly seasoned companion, yet it’s tasty enough to be enjoyed on its own. It’s colorful and not at all difficult to make.
Serve it with a spicy fish, stew, or bean dish or with a creative sauté of Latin American, Caribbean, Creole, Cajun, Indian, or Southeast Asian persuasion.
1½ teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
⅓ cup finely chopped onions
⅓ cup finely chopped red bell peppers
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
pinch of cayenne
1 large tomato
1 cup long-grain white rice
1 cup water
½ teaspoon salt
Toast the cumin seeds on an unoiled tray at 350° or in a dry skillet for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Grind the seeds in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle and set aside.
In a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, warm the oil on medium heat. Add the onions, peppers, garlic, cayenne, and cumin and sauté for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, purée the tomato to make about a cup of sauce: if less than a cup, add enough water to yield a full cup.
Add the rice and tomato purée to the saucepan and stir for a minute or two. Add the water and salt and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer very gently for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to sit for 5 minutes before lifting the lid.
Stir to fluff and serve.
PER 4-OUNCE SERVING: 145 CALORIES, 2.6 G PROTEIN, 2.8 G FAT, 27.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 204.9 MG SODIUM, 1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 3 to 4
Preparation time: 5 to 10 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
At Moosewood, we like to serve this golden, fragrant rice with curries, grilled vegetables, and seafood. Customers always remark on its lovely color and slightly sweet flavor. If you are pressed for time, replace the brown basmati rice with white basmati, which cooks in 15 minutes.
1½ cups brown basmati rice
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons freshly grated orange peel
⅓ teaspoon turmeric
⅓ teaspoon ground cardamom
¾ teaspoon salt
generous pinch of saffron
2¼ cups water
In a small, heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid, sauté the rice with the oil, orange peel, turmeric, cardamom, salt, and saffron for 1 or 2 minutes. Stir constantly to coat the grains with oil and to prevent sticking.
Add the water and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat, cover, and cook on very low heat until all of the water is absorbed, about 50 minutes.
Fluff the rice before serving.
PER 7.5-OUNCE SERVING: 259 CALORIES, 4.9 G PROTEIN, 4.1 G FAT, 50.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 450.5 MG SODIUM, 4.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 6
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Toasted sesame seeds and fresh scallions add an unexpected crunch to this simple savory rice, which fits in perfectly with sautés and tofu dishes. This recipe can be easily doubled and can be the “just right” contribution that rounds out the offerings at a potluck or buffet.
1 cup brown rice
1½ teaspoons dark sesame oil
1½ cups water
⅓ cup minced scallions
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds*
2 to 3 teaspoons soy sauce to taste
* Toast sesame seeds in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant and golden.
In a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, toss the rice with
½ teaspoon of the sesame oil to coat the grains. Add the water, cover, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the rice is tender, about 40 to 45 minutes. Stir in the scallions, sesame seeds, the remaining sesame oil, and soy sauce to taste.
PER 4-OUNCE SERVING: 136 CALORIES, 3 G PROTEIN, 3.5 G FAT, 23.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 90.4 MG SODIUM, 2.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 6
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Simmering time: 45 minutes
Sitting time: 5 minutes
At Moosewood, we serve this popular pilaf with roasted or stuffed vegetables, fish, and sautéed or braised greens. Wild rice adds excellent flavor and a distinctive texture and appearance to pilafs, but it’s pricey. Typical mixed rice pilafs have 1 part wild rice to 2 parts brown rice, but the proportions can range from 1:1 to 1:4 without compromising the vigorous, complex flavors of the grains.
1 cup long-grain brown rice
½ cup wild rice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2¼ cups water
⅔ cup finely diced bell peppers*
½ cup chopped scallions
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
pinch of salt and ground black pepper
* A mix of red, green, and/or yellow bell peppers is nice.
Rinse the brown rice and wild rice in a sieve and set aside to drain.
In a saucepan, warm the oil on medium heat and add the rice. Sauté, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Stir in the water, cover, and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat and gently simmer for 45 minutes, until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed.
Allow the finished rice to sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Transfer the rice to a serving bowl, stir in the bell peppers, scallions, parsley, soy sauce, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.
PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 176 CALORIES, 3.6 G PROTEIN, 4 G FAT, 32 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 306.3 MG SODIUM, 2.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
variations 
Substitute other herbs for the parsley to suit your menu. For example, use dill for a more Northern or Eastern European menu; cilantro and chiles for a Mexican menu; basil and oregano for an Italian menu; and mint and marjoram for a French or Greek menu.
Serves 4
Preparation time: 50 minutes
Sitting time: 10 minutes
Colorful flecks of fresh vegetables glisten in this salad-like pilaf. Serve it chilled in lettuce-leaf cups on a summer combo plate or hot and steamy alongside almost any Asian fish or tofu dish.
Cut the vegetables close to the same small size and, if you prefer, use white basmati rice. To save time, prepare the vegetables and seasonings while the rice cooks and the hijiki soaks. This dish looks fabulous served in shiny black enameled bowls.
1 cup brown basmati rice
2 cups water
½ cup diced red bell peppers
½ cup diced celery
2 to 3 minced scallions
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root
¼ cup toasted sesame seeds**
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
* Hijiki can swell to yield different amounts depending on the type. Cut hijiki swells more than uncut. If you buy cut hijiki, 2 tablespoons dried should yield about ½ cup soaked and chopped—a good amount for this dish.
** Toast sesame seeds on an unoiled baking tray in a conventional or toaster oven at 350° for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.
In a saucepan, combine the rice and water. Cover and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat and simmer for about 40 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender but firm.
While the rice is cooking, soak the hijiki in boiling water to cover for 15 minutes. Drain and chop the hijiki to make about ½ cup.
Combine the bell peppers, celery, scallions, vegetable oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, sesame seeds, and salt in a large bowl. Add the chopped hijiki and the cooked rice and stir well. Cover the bowl and allow the pilaf to sit for 10 minutes so the flavors can marry.
PER 7.5-OUNCE SERVING: 261 CALORIES, 6.1 G PROTEIN, 7.4 G FAT, 44.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 815.7 MG SODIUM, 5.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
With the great influx of ethnic foods in the American marketplace and the explosion of restaurants offering cultural specialties from around the world, Americans are finally discovering
seaweed. Although the English language uses the word “weed” to describe these edible marine algaes, most other languages select the more respectful “sea vegetables”—a far more accurate description.
While certain marine algae are used like herbs or spices, most sea plants are more like land vegetables. They are primitive photosynthesizing plants without true leaves, stems, or roots, but with a leaflike blade, a stemlike stipe, and a rootlike holdfast. They range widely in size and reproduce by spores, gametes, and fragmentation.
Seaweeds are divided into five groups: red algae, green algae, brown algae, blue-green algae, and yellow-green algae. Although apparently color-coded, these classifications are actually based on cell structure, food storage, reproduction, and other scientific considerations. Color does not reliably indicate which group a particular algae belongs to. For instance, a bright red algae may actually belong to the green algae family. Go figure.
Seaweed inhabits the ocean and brackish coastal waters. While it tends to cohabit with sea grasses, it is distinct from sea grasses, which are angiosperms that have seeds and flowers. Seaweed fastens itself to the sea floor by tendrils that look like, but don’t function like, roots—the tendrils draw in no nourishment. Instead, seaweed feeds itself through its blades or fronds, extracting elements directly from the ocean water and eventually converting them into organic compounds that our bodies can use.
People have eaten hundreds of species of seaweed since the beginning of history, and both oral and written accounts convey our human fascination with the beauty and diversity of this ocean plantlife. In coastal regions where harsh climate or a lack of arable land exists, people naturally turned to the sea to enhance their diets. But even in areas with adequate climate and soil, seaweed was a prized food. Palmaria palmata, fresh sol or dulse, has been eaten in Iceland since about 1000 B.C. In China’s Book of Poetry (800–600 B.C.), sea vegetables are praised as a delicacy fit for any honored guest, and Japanese literature regularly refers to them as a gem or gemlike. Ancient Hawaiian nobility kept limu gardens of transplanted choice edible algae. And archaeologists have found food stashes of algae in Stone Age South African dwellings.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Simmering time: 45 to 50 minutes
Wehani rice is a reddish-brown hybrid of basmati rice that is available in natural food stores. Sweet, chewy apricots and a judicious sprinkling of fresh rosemary offset the nutty flavor of the rice.
1 cup long-grain brown rice
1 cup wehani rice
½ cup diced onions
1 tablespoon olive oil
1½ teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 ½ cups water
⅓ cup diced unsulphured dried apricots
In a sieve, rinse and drain the brown and wehani rices and set aside.
In a medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, sauté the onions in the oil for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the drained rice, rosemary, and salt to the saucepan and sauté for another minute, stirring to coat the rice with the oil.
Add the water, cover, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the rice is tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Stir in the apricots and set aside for 5 minutes.
Fluff and serve.
PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 363 CALORIES, 6.4 G PROTEIN, 3.2 G FAT, 75.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 201.5 MG SODIUM, 4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
grits
Grits are good. They’re good plain, with just butter and salt and maybe a little cheese stirred in. Good baked with vegetables, mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. Good sliced when cold and pan-fried or breaded and deep-fried. Good as a starch over which to ladle stews, sauces, or gravies. Good for breakfast, lunch, or supper. In short, good most any time you serve them! But you’ve got to know your grits.
It’s a matter of personal taste whether to use white or yellow grits, commercial or stone-ground. Commercial, supermarket-variety grits have a consistent nubby texture and carry other flavors beautifully. Supermarket grits come in quick-cooking, regular (sometimes called old-fashioned), and instant varieties. Some grits gourmands disdain commercial grits, but we like them—except for “instant”: never ever allow instant grits to pass through your lips. They are insipid in flavor and texture, and filled with chemical additives. Instant grits give grits a bad name, and since quick-cooking grits cook in just 5 to 10 minutes, the 3- to 4-minute “instant” aspect just isn’t relevant. Quick grits are fine: creamy and good-tasting, without additives. Regular or old-fashioned grits cook in 15 to 30 minutes.
Commercial grits are made from dried corn, usually white, with the germ removed to increase shelf life. They are roller-ground in factories. Quaker brand grits can be found in the cereal section of most well-stocked supermarkets. Often, especially in the Southeast, smaller, more local brands are also on the shelf; one of our favorites is Dixie Lily (Box 50337, Nashville, Tennessee 37205).
Serious grits aficionados often prefer stone-ground grits made by smaller producers. Stone-ground grits are dried whole kernels of white or yellow corn crushed between millstones. They have an earthy corn flavor and a creamy-bumpy texture. Black speckles tell you that the grits were ground from whole kernels of dried corn (the base of a corn kernel is black). White grits usually contain some spots of yellow, because most stands of white corn are within bee-flying distance of yellow corn, resulting in some cross-pollination. Yellow and white grits are about the same in sweetness, flavor, and nutritional value. The various stone-ground grits we’ve tried take from 45 minutes to almost 2 hours to cook. They should be stored in the freezer in a well-sealed container where they will keep for several months.
grits
with
goat cheese &
dill
Serves 6
Total time: 20 minutes with quick-cooking grits
At first, the idea of grits with goat cheese seemed a little strange, even to us. But then we tried it! Its creamy texture and brisk dill accent make it an unconventional but reassuringly soothing and satisfying side dish.
Any kind of grits will work here, but the cooking times will vary. It takes about 10 minutes for quick-cooking grits to cook, 25 minutes for regular grits, and about 40 minutes for stone-ground grits. Goat cheese, also called chèvre, is available at the cheese counter of most well-stocked supermarkets.
4 cups water
1 cup minced celery
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup grits
1 cup soft goat cheese
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
½ cup minced scallions or chives
In a covered saucepan, bring the water, celery, and salt to a boil. Stir or whisk in the grits, lower the heat, cover, and cook at a low simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened.
Remove from the heat and stir in the goat cheese, dill, and the scallions or chives. Serve hot from the pan.
PER 7.5-OUNCE SERVING: 157 CALORIES, 6.2 G PROTEIN, 4.4 G FAT, 23.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 8.7 MG CHOLESTEROL, 286.6 MG SODIUM, 0.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
grits
baked with shallots
Serves 4
Preparation time: about 20 minutes
Baking time: 30 minutes
Elegant shallots transform a humble, down-home favorite into a refined and unusual side dish. The preparation time will vary depending on the type of grits you use; quick-cooking, regular, or stone-ground grits are fine for this dish, but instant grits are not.
2 cups water
½ cup grits
½ cup minced shallots
2 tablespoons butter
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons shredded Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese
2 eggs, well beaten
Preheat the oven to 350°. Thoroughly butter or oil a 1
½-quart baking pan or soufflé dish.
Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. While stirring briskly or whisking, gradually pour the grits into the water. Cook on low heat until thickened, stirring occasionally. The cooking time will be about 10 minutes for quick-cooking grits, 25 minutes for regular grits, and longer for stone-ground grits.
Meanwhile, sauté the shallots in the butter on medium heat until golden and soft, about 5 minutes. When the grits are done, stir in the shallots, ½ cup of the cheese, and the beaten eggs. Pour into the prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until puffed and uniformly golden.
PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 284 CALORIES, 15 G PROTEIN, 15.7 G FAT, 20.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 164.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 495.3 MG SODIUM, 0.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Yields about 4 cups
Total time: 35 minutes
The combination of corn grits and quinoa does basic cooked grits one better. The two are excellent partners with complementary textures and flavors. The grits provide a creamy base and the quinoa adds both a protein-rich boost and a chewiness reminiscent of stoneground grits.
Serve the cooked blend as you would plain grits: Add raisins, maple syrup, or sugar for a breakfast cereal, add cheese and herbs for a savory side dish, or use in baked grits dishes and as a base for stews and sauces.
4 cups water
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup regular or quick-cooking grits*
½ cup quinoa
* If you’re using quick-cooking grits, add the quinoa to the boiling water first, and then add the grits after 5 minutes.
Bring the water and salt to a boil in a saucepan. Stirring or whisking constantly, pour in the grits. When the grits and water return to a boil, stir in the quinoa. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer for about 25 minutes, stirring frequently. If the grits begin to stick, use a heat diffuser to avoid scorching.
Remove from the heat and let sit covered for about 5 minutes. If too thick, stir in a little hot water. Serve hot.
PER 7.25-OUNCE SERVING: 181 CALORIES, 5.1 G PROTEIN, 1.5 G FAT, 37.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 302.7 MG SODIUM, 1.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
Serves 4 to 6
Total time: 30 minutes
When looking for a versatile companion for Mexican, Peruvian, Southwestern, or Southern meals, we thought, “Why not grits?” Add bell peppers, corn kernels, cumin, and coriander to this New World staple, and you’ve got it!
This dish reheats very well in the microwave, a double boiler, or the oven.
1 recipe Grits with Quinoa (opposite)
1 cup chopped onions
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup diced red or green bell peppers
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup fresh, frozen, or drained canned corn kernels
1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
chopped fresh cilantro and/or scallions
Tabasco sauce or other hot pepper sauce
While the Grits with Quinoa cooks, sauté the onions in the olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes on medium-high heat. Stir in the bell peppers and continue to sauté for a couple of minutes. Stir in the cumin and coriander and sauté, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the corn and cook until all of the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Set aside.
When the grits with quinoa are ready, stir in the sautéed vegetables and the cheese. Top with chopped cilantro and/or scallions and serve with Tabasco sauce.
PER 8-OUNCE SERVING: 283 CALORIES, 9.5 G PROTEIN, 12.5 G FAT, 35.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 19.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 325.5 MG SODIUM, 2.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER
At least 20 mills in the U.S. make stone-ground grits, most of them small operations with loyal customers. These mills grind and ship small orders year-round:
