Moosewood Restaurant New Classics: 350 Recipes for Homestyle Favorites and Everyday Feasts

When the early spring vegetables appear on vegetable stands, don’t miss the chance to enjoy them in their pristine glory—gently blanched and dressed with a simple herbed vinaigrette.

Total time: 1 hour

Mix up the vegetable combination as you like, using a variety of colors and textures. It’s very important to cook the vegetables just until tender, or you’ll miss what makes them so special—their brilliant colors and delicate young flavors. We remove the vegetables from the boiling water when they’re still a little undercooked: their residual heat will continue to soften them.

vegetables

1½ pounds baby red potatoes or fingerlings, rinsed and quartered

¼ teaspoon salt

1½ cups baby cut carrots or carrot matchsticks

12 asparagus spears, tough stem ends trimmed

1½ cups tender green beans or haricots verts, trimmed

1¾ cups diagonally sliced small yellow summer squash

1 red, orange, or yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced lengthwise

1½ cups sliced mushrooms

1 to 1½ cups trimmed sugar snap peas or snow peas

vinaigrette

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

1 teaspoon minced fresh summer savory or tarragon

1 or 2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 small head of red leaf, green leaf, Boston, or romaine lettuce

2 celery stalks, cut into slender matchsticks

12 cherry tomatoes or 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges

assorted olives

Bring two medium pots of water to a boil, place a large bowl of iced water in the sink, and have handy a large tray to hold the cooked vegetables.

In a separate saucepan, combine the potatoes, salt, and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook each of the other vegetables separately in the pots of boiling water just until tender. The carrots and asparagus will take about 5 minutes, the green beans 3 to 4 minutes, and the squash, bell peppers, mushrooms, and peas only 1 to 2 minutes. When each vegetable is ready, promptly remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into the iced water. When the vegetables reach room temperature, drain and transfer to the tray.

Whisk all of the vinaigrette ingredients together or purée briefly in a blender. Spread lettuce leaves on a serving platter. When all of the vegetables are done, arrange them on the bed of lettuce. Decorate with the celery sticks, tomatoes, and olives and drizzle on the vinaigrette.

PER 15-OUNCE SERVING: 357 CALORIES, 6.6 G PROTEIN, 21.1 G FAT, 40 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.9 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 473.4 MG SODIUM, 8.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

cobb salad

Cobb Salad, invented by Robert Cobb at Hollywood’s Brown Derby Restaurant in 1936, has retained a certain air of glamor and sophistication ever since. Our vegetarian version is a beautiful composed salad, colorful with stripes of many different nutritious ingredients. You can use a variety of greens for Cobb Salad: try Boston lettuce, romaine, spinach, Ruby lettuce, and watercress.

Serve accompanied by Three Seed Whole Wheat Rolls and smooth Fennel Leek Soup.

dressing

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon mild honey

salad

1½ cups stemmed and sliced green beans*

6 cups mixed greens, torn into bite-sized pieces

1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes

2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

1½ cups peeled, seeded, and chopped cucumbers

1 Hass avocado, cut into cubes**

6 ounces tofu-kan or other seasoned tofu, diced

½ small red onion, finely chopped

½ cup crumbled blue cheese

* Cut ½ pound of green beans into 1-inch lengths to yield 1½ eups.

** Slice around the avocado lengthwise, gently twist the halves apart, and remove the pit. Cut the flesh into cubes right in the skins and scoop them out with a serving spoon.

In a small bowl, whisk together all of the dressing ingredients until blended and smooth. Set aside.

In a small covered saucepan, cook the green beans in boiling water until crisp-tender but still bright green, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and immerse in cold water. When cool, drain and set aside.

Spread the mixed greens on a large oval platter. Arrange the tomatoes on top of the greens in a strip lengthwise down the middle. On both sides of the tomatoes, make strips of all of the other salad ingredients, with an eye to attractive color combinations. Drizzle the dressing over all or serve the salad with the dressing on the side.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 304 CALORIES, 10.7 G PROTEIN, 19.3 G FAT, 26.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 5.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 90.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 585.5 MG SODIUM, 5.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

israeli couscous & french lentils

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Sitting time: 30 minutes

Israeli couscous, created in the 1950s in Israel, is sometimes called pearl pasta. Its flavorfulness and tender absorbent texture are increasing its popularity in the U.S. The pieces of Israeli couscous are about the size of peppercorns, so they’re good for hearty dishes. French lentils are smaller than brown or red lentils and hold their shape well when cooked.

This salad has a delicate flavor and is a good counterpart to assertively seasoned, spicy dishes. Or serve it with our Falafel Burgers and stuffed grape leaves for a fabulous Middle Eastern-style combination platter.

¼ cup French lentils, well rinsed

4½ quarts water

2½ teaspoons salt

1½ cups Israeli couscous

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ cup diced red bell peppers

¼ cup pitted chopped dates

1½ tablespoons minced fresh mint

¼ to ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

lemon wedges

toasted pine nuts*

* Toast pine nuts in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and golden.

In a saucepan, combine the lentils, 2 cups of the water, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil; then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for about 20 minutes or until tender. Drain well and set aside.

While the lentils simmer, bring the remaining 4 quarts of water to a rapid boil in a large covered pot. Stir in the couscous, cinnamon stick, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover the pot until the water returns to a boil; then uncover and cook for about 8 to 10 minutes: the couscous should be still firm in the middle. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain again. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.

In a serving bowl, toss together the couscous, lentils, olive oil, lemon peel, lemon juice, bell peppers, dates, mint, black pepper, and the remaining teaspoon of salt. Set the salad aside for about 30 minutes to develop the flavors.

Serve accompanied by lemon wedges and topped with toasted pine nuts.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 226 CALORIES, 6.6 G PROTEIN, 5.1 G FAT, 39.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,000.5 MG SODIUM, 4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

tabouli with shrimp & oranges

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Chilling time: 15 to 30 minutes

Tabouli is traditionally a lemony parsley salad with some bulghur added for texture and interest, but here in the United States it’s often prepared as a grain salad seasoned with parsley and mint. Our version has a tangy orange, mint, and olive oil dressing, fresh orange sections, and shrimp boiled until just pink.

As with any grain salad, it’s important to season this tabouli to taste. The bulghur will absorb the dressing as it sits and may be spiked with additional fresh lemon juice, salt, and freshly ground black pepper just before serving. Experiment with different amounts of herbs to find the combination and intensity you prefer.

salad

3½ to 4 cups cooked bulghur *

24 cooked medium shrimp, chilled

1 cup seeded and sliced cucumbers**

2 navel oranges, sectioned***

⅓ cup quartered and thinly sliced red onions

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

salt and ground black pepper to taste

dressing

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 to 2 tablespoons freshly grated orange peel

¾ cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons minced fresh spearmint or orange mint (2 teaspoons dried)

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon salt

pinch of cayenne

1 tablespoon mild honey

4 to 6 ounces fresh spinach leaves

lemon wedges and sprigs of mint

toasted chopped walnuts (optional)

* Place 1½ cups of raw bulghur in a heatproof bowl and cover with 2 cups of boiling water. Cover the bowl and set aside to steam for 20 to 30 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the bulghur is tender.

** Peel a cucumber and slice it in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick crescents.

*** Use a sharp knife to slice off the peel and the white pith. Working over a bowl, slice toward the center of the orange along the membrane on one side of a section and then flick the knife up the membrane on the other side to release the section.

In a bowl, stir together the cooked bulghur, chilled shrimp, cucumbers, orange sections, red onions, parsley, salt, and pepper. Whisk together all of the dressing ingredients and pour over the bulghur mixture. Toss the tabouli with the dressing and refrigerate for at least 15 to 30 minutes.

When the tabouli has nearly finished chilling, rinse and stem the spinach and slice it into ⅛-inch strips. Arrange the chiffonade of fresh spinach on a serving platter. Taste the chilled tabouli and adjust the seasonings.

Serve the tabouli on the bed of spinach, garnished with lemon wedges and mint. Top with the toasted walnuts, if desired.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 324 CALORIES, 25.4 G PROTEIN, 11.1 G FAT, 32.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 194.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 449.2 MG SODIUM, 6.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

mediterranean orzo salad

A local group of Italian-Americans had their first potluck dinner in the fail of 1999. As her contribution, Moosewood’s Ned Asta cooked a big bowl of this orzo salad and was happy to have people asking for the recipe.

Total time: 50 minutes

Using a mixture of olives—kalamatas, green Spanish olives, ripe black California olives—makes this salad lively in color and, in combination with the olive oil, very olive-y indeed.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 cups cubed eggplant (1-inch cubes)*

3 or 4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup orzo

2 teaspoons capers

⅓ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted**

½ cup minced red bell peppers

⅔ cup pitted chopped mixed olives

1½ cups chopped fresh tomatoes

⅓ cup chopped fresh parsley

ground black pepper to taste

grated feta cheese or Parmesan cheese (optional)

* If the eggplant skin is not tough or bitter, there’s no need to peel it for this recipe.

** Toastpine nuts in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.

Preheat the oven to 450°. Lightly oil a 9 × 12-inch nonreactive baking pan.

Mix together the olive oil, eggplant, garlic, and salt in the prepared baking pan. Bake until the edges of the eggplant begin to brown, 20 to 30 minutes.

In the meantime, bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil. Add the orzo and cook for about 10 minutes, until al dente, stirring occasionally. Drain well.

In a large bowl, mix together the capers, pine nuts, bell peppers, olives, and tomatoes. Add the drained pasta and toss well to coat with the vegetables. Mix in the baked eggplant cubes and parsley.

Top with some grated cheese, if desired, and serve immediately.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 458 CALORIES, 12.8 G PROTEIN, 23.3 G FAT, 53.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,406.8 MG SODIUM, 4.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

tuscan panzanella

Serves 6 to 8

Total time: 1¼ hours

Panzanella is the famous bread salad of Tuscany. Moosewood cook Laura Branca realized that this recipe could be the perfect way to use a stale loaf of bread, and when she tried it, it worked like a charm! Warm the bread in the oven until it’s crisp enough to be speared with a fork, but soft enough inside to soak up the dressing.

Savory roasted peppers and squash paired with fresh asparagus and sweet sugar snaps make this a wonderful meal. For efficiency, first prepare the squash and peppers, and while they roast, prepare the rest of the ingredients. Laura wanted plenty of flavor, so her recipe makes 2 cups of the Creamy Garlic Parmesan Dressing, which would keep for a really long time if it weren’t so good.

Serve the panzanella by itself or with a light, puréed soup such as Curried Spinach Pea Soup.

creamy garlic parmesan dressing

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup red wine vinegar

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon ground black pepper, or more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup 2% milk

panzanella

1 medium zucchini, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices*

1 medium yellow summer squash, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices*

1 large red bell pepper, halved and seeded

1 large green or yellow bell pepper, halved and seeded

1 tablespoon olive oil

12 to 16 fresh asparagus, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 cup sugar snap peas, trimmed

2 cups chopped tomatoes

8 cups mesclun or mixed field greens, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 teaspoons minced fresh basil, thyme, or parsley

1 large loaf of crusty French or Italian bread

* Cut the summer squash and zucchini crosswise on a severe diagonal for large good-looking slices.

Preheat the oven to 450°. Oil two baking sheets.

Combine the dressing ingredients in a blender or food processor, adding the milk last while you purée or process. Whirl for 30 to 45 seconds, until the dressing is the consistency of a light mayonnaise. Set aside.

Lightly brush the zucchini and squash slices and the bell pepper halves with the olive oil. Place the pepper halves on one baking tray and roast for 40 to 45 minutes, until charred with black areas. Spread the zucchini and squash on the other baking tray and roast for about 15 minutes, until they start to brown. Use a spatula to turn the slices over. Return the squash to the oven and bake for another 15 minutes, until golden brown on both sides.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus for about 2 minutes; then add the sugar snap peas and cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer. Drain both vegetables and plunge into very cold water to cool. Drain again and set aside. Place the tomatoes and greens in a serving bowl. In a cup, stir together the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and basil or other herbs and set aside.

When the squash and peppers are roasted, remove the trays from the oven and reduce the temperature to 350°.

Place the roasted peppers in a bowl, cover, and let sit for 10 minutes. Peel off the charred skin of the peppers and then cut them into 2-inch pieces. Meanwhile, slice the loaf of bread in half lengthwise and place it in the oven for 5 to 10 minutes to crisp the crust.

Add the bell peppers, squash, asparagus, and snap peas to the serving bowl of tomatoes and greens. Just before serving, toss the salad with the reserved oil and vinegar. Finally, cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and add them to the salad.

Serve with a generous spoonful of the Creamy Garlic Parmesan Dressing.

PER 13-OUNCE SERVING: 550 CALORIES, 11.8 G PROTEIN, 39.2 G FAT, 40.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 6.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 8.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 783.8 MG SODIUM, 3.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

risotto

In Italy, risotto is a familiar, home-style dish, easily made and often improvised. It is just about as easy to make as pasta and almost as versatile.

Risotto is made from plump, extremely glutinous, short- to medium-grain rice grown chiefly in the Po River Valley in Italy. Four rice varieties are typically used for risotto: Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, Baldo, and Arborio, the one easiest to find in our supermarkets. A good domestic rice is California-grown Cal-riso, which resembles Arborio but is faster cooking.

Risotto rices absorb a lot of liquid quickly and still remain al dente. Characteristically, they release a great deal of starch as they cook, which results in firm rice kernels with chewy centers suspended in a thick smooth base, giving the illusion of creaminess. Look for packages marked “ai pestelli,” which means the rice was hulled with a mortar and pestle. This process leaves a powdery starch on the rice that enhances that creamy risotto texture.

Vegetables, herbs, and cheeses are flavorful additions to velvety risotto. Risotto dishes range from simple to elaborate, rustic to elegant. Nutritious and economical, risotto can be a first course, a main dish, or a side dish.

Most risottos can be prepared in less than 30 minutes. It usually takes about 20 minutes for arborio rice to cook into a creamy but al dente consistency. To make risotto, set up two pots on your stovetop. In one, keep broth or stock simmering on the back burner. Your own homemade vegetable stock, which can be frozen for convenience, is best of course, but we also like the vegetable and “un-chicken” broths available in aseptically packaged quart boxes. In a pinch, use water and bouillon cubes, as does Marcella Hazan, the luminary of Italian cooking. We like Morga brand vegetable bouillon.

On the front burner, place a heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick, saucepan. Gently sauté onions and the rice in oil or butter. A small amount of wine is generally the first liquid addition, which is quickly absorbed by the rice. If you don’t wish to use wine, substitute broth or nonalcoholic wine.

Traditionally, risotto is stirred constantly after the first addition of liquid, but we’ve found, especially when we use a nonstick pan, that continuous stirring isn’t necessary for achieving a nice creaminess. A nonstick pot also greatly minimizes cleanup. Nonstick pots and risotto were made for each other. Always stir risotto with a wooden spoon to avoid breaking up the rice kernels.

Add the hot stock or broth about a cup or a ladleful at a time. As the stock is absorbed by the rice, add more. Stir every few minutes to see if more broth is needed, and then stir each addition well. Sometimes beginning risottomakers are cautious and cook the rice on low heat, but with a little experience they are likely to develop a feel for just the right heat, just the right amount of stirring. Between stirrings, there’s time to prep the vegetables and grate the cheese.

The last step is thoroughly stirring in the cheese. Serve the finished risotto without delay. Risotto doesn’t reheat well, but try adding a beaten egg or two to cold leftover risotto and either pan-frying it for a risotto frittata or baking it for a delicious risotto cake.

red risotto

This hearty, comforting risotto comes from the lake district of northern Italy. With so many red ingredients, you can see why it’s called red, but actually, the end result is a handsome mauve color. After simmering, the radicchio almost melts into the risotto and, although its bitter edge has been greatly subdued, it still provides a strong flavoring effect.

Total time: 50 minutes

The trick to a creamy risotto is to add the stock to the sautéed rice gradually and stir often. It will take about 25 minutes for the rice to absorb all of the stock when it is added cup by cup. Using a nonstick pan helps prevent sticking and minimizes cleanup.

Start with crudités and piquant Green Olive & Artichoke Tapenade. Serve alongside dishes that don’t require last-minute preparation, such as crisp Bread Sticks and Pretty Beets & Carrots.

4 cups vegetable stock

1 tablespoon olive oil

¾ to 1 cup minced red onions

1¼ cups arborio rice

½ cup dry red wine

4 cups finely shredded radicchio

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1½ cups cooked small red beans (15.5-ounce can, rinsed and drained)

pinch of dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

ground black pepper to taste

shavings of Pecorino Romano cheese (optional)

In a small saucepan, heat the stock to a simmer; then keep it gently simmering.

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy, preferably nonstick saucepan, warm the olive oil on medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened. With a wooden spoon, stir in the rice until well coated with the oil. Add the wine and stir for about 1 minute until it’s absorbed.

Add 1 cup of the simmering stock and cook, stirring occasionally, until absorbed. Add the radicchio and another cup of stock and cook, stirring often. As each cup of stock is absorbed stir in the next. Add the tomato paste, beans, and thyme with the last ladleful of stock.

After the stock is absorbed, cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, continuing to stir, until the risotto is creamy but still al dente. Remove from the heat and add the salt. Stir in the grated cheese and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately, topped with extra cheese, if desired.

PER 7.5-OUNCE SERVING: 327 CALORIES, 12.3 G PROTEIN, 6.4 G FAT, 53.5 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 11.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 687.6 MG SODIUM, 8.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

risotto milanese

This elegant golden-yellow risotto is probably Milan’s most famous dish. We loved the idea of using a now-available “un-chicken” broth to duplicate the traditional flavor of risotto Milanese. Westbrae Natural Unchicken Broth is a canned vegetarian, semi-condensed broth found on the soup shelves in natural grocery stores. Imagine Foods and Pacific brands also make all-natural and low-fat “un-chicken” broths, which come in aseptically packaged quart boxes.

You may also use 2 vegetable bouillon cubes dissolved in 5 cups of boiling water or 5 cups of your favorite vegetable stock to replace the mock chicken broth and water in the recipe.

Pair this risotto with Roasted Winter Vegetables or serve it as a first course, as Italians do, to be followed by Pecan-Crusted Fish and a sautéed bitter green. If you really want to gild the lily, top each serving with a dollop of mascarpone cheese.

4 cups vegetarian mock chicken broth (two 15-ounce cans)

1 cup water

½ cup diced onions

1½ tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ to 1 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

1½ cups arborio or carnaroli rice

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a saucepan, bring the broth and water to a low simmer. In another large saucepan, sauté the onions in the butter and olive oil on medium-high heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the saffron and rice, and stir thoroughly to coat the rice with the butter and oil. Add the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it is absorbed, a minute or two.

Ladle in the simmering broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring the rice often. Let the rice absorb the broth almost completely before adding more. Continue cooking until the rice is tender but al dente, about 20 minutes.

When the rice is done, remove it from the heat and stir in the grated cheese and the pepper. Serve immediately.

PER 10-OUNCE SERVING: 290 CALORIES, 8.2 G PROTEIN, 9.3 G FAT, 41 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 16.7 MG CHOLESTEROL, 345 MG SODIUM, 3.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

spinach feta risotto

This flavorful pan-Mediterranean-style risotto is packed with good things. The amount of salt needed will depend upon the saltiness of the stock or broth you use and your own preference.

A few olives and some sliced tomatoes might be all you need to add for a lovely, light meal, although Asparagus with Red Pepper Sauce goes well with this.

3 cups sliced cremini mushrooms

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

¼ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or thyme

2 tablespoons plus ½ cup dry white wine

¼ teaspoon salt

ground black pepper to taste

5 cups vegetable stock*

½ cup diced onions

2 cups arborio or carnaroli rice

10 ounces fresh spinach, rinsed, stemmed, and chopped (about 10 cups)

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

* Make your own stock, use a quart of commercial broth or stock and add water to make 5 cups, or dissolve 2 vegetable bouillon cubes in 5 cups of boiling water.

In a saucepan on medium heat, sauté the mushrooms and garlic in 1 tablespoon of the oil for about 5 minutes, until the mushrooms are softened and most of the moisture has evaporated. Add the dill or thyme and 2 tablespoons of wine and cook for a minute more. Add the salt and pepper to taste. Hold on very low heat until the risotto is ready.

In a saucepan, heat the stock to a low simmer.

In a soup pot on medium-high heat, sauté the onions in the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil for about 5 minutes, until golden. Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until the grains are coated with oil. Add the ½ cup of wine and cook, stirring constantly, until the wine is absorbed.

Add the simmering stock 1 cup at a time. Cook, stirring frequently, until each cup is absorbed before adding the next. Continue until all of the stock is used and the rice is tender but still al dente, about 25 minutes. When the rice has absorbed all of the stock, add the spinach, cover, and cook for about 2 minutes, until the spinach is wilted but still bright green. Stir in the feta cheese.

Serve each portion of risotto topped with the sautéed mushrooms.

PER 13-OUNCE SERVING: 399 CALORIES, 8.8 G PROTEIN, 14.5 G FAT, 56.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 16.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 466.9 MG SODIUM, 5.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

frittatas

Frittatas and omelets are similar yet different. Both use eggs and are a terrific blank canvas for the inventive cook. But while an omelet is cooked in a skillet and then folded over a filling, a frittata is layered with one filling ingredient right atop the next. Frittatas may be cooked either in the oven or on the stovetop and, unlike omelets, they’re equally good hot, at room temperature, or cold. Since they are good served at any temperature, they are a good choice for a picnic or dish-to-pass meal.

Some frittatas make an excellent sandwich stuffer. Try Mixed Greens Frittata or another frittata made without a starchy filling in a long French or Italian loaf or between slices of hearty whole wheat bread.

Variations are one of the joys of making frittatas. In our time, we’ve made hundreds, maybe even thousands, of frittatas at Moosewood. The basic idea is usually a starch (rice, potatoes, or bread) topped with vegetables (sautéed or roasted), some cheese, and usually some herbs, all held together with egg custard. Below, we give you a bunch of ideas for vegetable-herb-cheese combinations, but we predict that the best frittatas you make will be inspirations of the moment. Begin with some leftovers or something from the vegetable bin that needs to be used and go from there. The recipes we’ve included here are meant to serve as models for how to make frittatas either in the oven or on the stovetop in a skillet.

In the Moosewood kitchen, we always make frittatas in the oven because we’re cooking large amounts, and because once it’s in the oven, it’s hands-off until it’s done, except to take off the cover for browning. But at home, we often make skillet frittatas on the stovetop. We’ve experimented with various techniques and have decided that finishing off under the broiler is easiest and makes the best-looking dish; for instructions, see this page.

Most of the following frittata combinations can be adapted to either the oven or the skillet method. For a 7 × 11-inch or 9 × 9-inch baking pan or a 10-inch skillet, you need about 3 cups of rice or roasted potatoes, or 2 cups of croutons or toasted bread cubes for a 1-inch layer. Top with 1 to 2 cups of roasted or sautéed onions and 1 to 2 cups of other vegetables, sautéed, steamed, or roasted. One cup of cheese is usually about right. For the custard, combine 6 eggs, 1½ cups of milk, 3 ounces of cream cheese, and ½ teaspoon salt.

rice frittatas

Green peas, sautéed mushrooms, chopped scallions or red onions; almost any fresh herb; Parmesan and/or Cheddar cheese.

Snow peas cut crosswise into strips, celery sliced on the diagonal, carrot matchsticks, slivered scallions; tofu cubes marinated in soy sauce and dark sesame oil; hold the cheese and serve drizzled with hoisin sauce.

Steamed or sautéed broccoli and/or cauliflower florets, strips of red onion; fresh basil and dill; Cheddar cheese.

roasted potato frittatas

Zucchini, onions, and sun-dried tomatoes; oregano or thyme and fresh basil; mild provolone and Parmesan cheeses.

Eggplant strips or cubes roasted with garlic, onions, bell peppers, and rosemary; Parmesan cheese.

Kale or chard sautéed with onions and garlic; smoked cheese.

Roasted onions and red and green bell pepper strips; fresh basil; Cheddar cheese.

bread frittatas

Steamed or sautéed asparagus pieces, strips of red bell pepper and onions; dilled Havarti cheese.

Sautéed yellow summer squash and onions; fresh tarragon and ground black pepper; Fontina or Gruyère cheese.

other ideas

Grated carrots, minced bell peppers, chopped scallions or red onions, corn kernels; cumin, coriander, and fresh cilantro; Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese. Top with tomato salsa.

Crumbled tortilla chips or strips of tortillas; black beans or refried beans, chopped scallions, bell peppers; cumin and thyme; Cheddar or mild white cheese; top frittata with thick slices of fresh tomatoes.

mixed greens frittata

This simple, tasty, nutritious frittata contains no onions or garlic—and it’s very green. Serve a wedge with a little citrus-dressed mesclun on the side, a slice of warm, buttered French bread, and bingo! What a brunch! For lunch, a cup of tomato soup, a grated carrot salad, or slices of ripe tomatoes would all make good companions.

Refrigerate leftovers for delicious sandwiches the next day.

2 cups chopped greens *

¾ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1½ teaspoons olive oil

4 eggs, lightly beaten

¼ cup water

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup grated feta, Parmesan, or Cheddar cheese

* A mixture of any greens, such as spinach, Swiss chard, collards, escarole, or kale, works fine.

In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, stir-fry the greens, parsley, and basil in 1 teaspoon of the oil until wilted and tender. Transfer the greens to a bowl. Rinse the skillet and set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, water, and salt and stir in ¼ cup of the cheese.

Lightly oil the skillet with the remaining ½ teaspoon of oil and place it on medium-high heat. Stir the egg and cheese mixture into the greens and pour into the hot skillet. Sprinkle the top with the rest of the grated cheese. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, without stirring, until the edges are firm and pulling away from the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes. The frittata should be mostly cooked, but with the top still slightly undercooked. Place the skillet under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, until the top is firm and beginning to turn golden brown.

Cut into wedges and serve, either directly from the skillet or turned out onto a large plate.

PER 4-OUNCE SERVING: 157 CALORIES, 10.6 G PROTEIN, 11.5 G FAT, 2.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 277 MG CHOLESTEROL, 399.4 MG SODIUM, 0.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

spanish frittata

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Baking time: about 45 minutes

Dense with olives, vegetables, and spices that we associate with sunny Spain, this is one of the most popular frittatas at Moosewood. Although we like to roast all of the vegetables, if you prefer, you can sauté the onions and peppers on the stovetop rather than roasting them in the oven.

2 to 3 cups sliced potatoes (½ inch thick)

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon paprika

2 cups thinly sliced onions

2 cups sliced bell peppers *

⅛ to ¼ teaspoon cayenne

6 eggs

3 ounces Neufchâtel or cream cheese

1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

1¼ cups milk

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup chopped Spanish olives

1 cup grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese

* A mix of colors is nice.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Lightly oil a 7 × 11-inch or a 9-inch square baking pan.

In a bowl, toss the potato slices with 2 tablespoons of the oil, half of the garlic, the paprika, and a dash of salt. Spread in an even layer on a baking sheet and roast for about 20 minutes, until tender and golden brown. In the same bowl, toss the onions and peppers with the cayenne and the remaining oil and garlic. Spread in an even layer on a second baking sheet and roast until tender and brown, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the eggs, Neufchâtel or cream cheese, flour, milk, and salt in a blender and purée to a smooth custard.

When the vegetable are roasted, reduce the oven temperature to 350°.

Layer the roasted potatoes in the prepared baking pan. Spread on the roasted onions and peppers, sprinkle with the olives and grated cheese, and pour the custard over all.

Bake for about 45 minutes, until the custard is set and the top is golden brown. Serve hot or at room temperature.

PER 11-OUNCE SERVING: 400 CALORIES, 18 G PROTEIN, 26.5 G FAT, 24.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 9.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 295.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 917 MG SODIUM, 2.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

sweet potato & zucchini frittata

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Baking time: 40 to 45 minutes

The sugar and color of roasted sweet potatoes contrasts beautifully with mild, juicy zucchini and the smoked Cheddar, which adds a bacony scent and rich flavor.

3 cups peeled sweet potato rounds (½ inch thick)

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups thinly sliced onions

3 cups sliced zucchini rounds (½ inch thick)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram (1 teaspoon dried)

5 eggs

8 ounces Neufchâtel or cream cheese, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 cups milk

1 cup grated smoked Cheddar cheese

Preheat the oven to 400°. Oil a 9 × 11-inch baking pan.

In a bowl, stir together the sweet potatoes with half of the garlic, 1½ tablespoons of the oil, and ½ teaspoon of the salt until evenly coated. Spread in a single layer on an unoiled baking sheet and roast for about 15 minutes, until tender.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions with the rest of the garlic and salt until the onions have softened, about 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and marjoram and sauté until the zucchini rounds are soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. When the sweet potatoes are tender and brown, remove them from the oven and set aside.

Lower the oven temperature to 350°.

In a blender, purée the eggs, Neufchâtel or cream cheese, pepper, and milk to make a smooth custard. Layer the roasted sweet potatoes in the prepared pan and spread the sautéed zucchini on top. Evenly sprinkle on the smoked cheese, then pour the custard over all.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until browned and firm. Serve hot.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 449 CALORIES, 19.5 G PROTEIN, 29.5 G FAT, 27.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 13.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 274.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 777.4 MG SODIUM, 2.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

zucchini rice frittata

Serves 2 to 4

In the classic, Italian-type frittata, everything is stirred together in a bowl before you pour it into the hot skillet. With dill, mint, and feta, this frittata has Greek and Balkan overtones. Use our recipe as a basic template, and try different cheeses, vegetables, or herbs, or use croutons or potatoes instead of rice—or no starch at all. If you wish, purée eight ounces of tofu in the blender with the eggs, water, and salt for a nutritious boost of soy protein.

Leftovers are good served either cold or at room temperature.

1 cup onion slices

1 tablespoon olive oil

1½ cups sliced zucchini (halved or quartered lengthwise, if large)

¾ cup cooked brown rice

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill (1½ teaspoons dried)

1 teaspoon dried mint (optional)

4 eggs

¼ cup water

¼ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

¼ cup crumbled feta cheese

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

ground black pepper to taste

In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet on medium heat, sauté the onion slices in the oil, stirring frequently for about 10 minutes, until the onions begin to brown. Add the zucchini and continue to sauté for about 5 minutes, until just tender. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and mix with the cooked rice, dill, and mint, if using.

Rinse the skillet and set it aside. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, water, and salt until smooth and then whisk in the feta cheese.

Lightly oil the skillet and place it on medium-high heat. Stir the egg mixture into the vegetables and rice and spoon it into the hot skillet. Sprinkle the top with Parmesan cheese.

Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, without stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the edges are firm and pulling away from the sides of the pan. The frittata should be mostly cooked but with the top still a little wet. Place the skillet under the broiler until the top is firm and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Or, if you prefer, cover and cook on low heat until firm.

Slide the frittata onto a large plate or serve directly from the skillet in generous wedges.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 245 CALORIES, 13.9 G PROTEIN, 14.6 G FAT, 14.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 5.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 277.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 467.1 MG SODIUM, 1.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pasta

Pasta is probably the first dish we think of for everyday cooking. It’s economical and can be very quick and easy. You can make many pasta sauces in the time it takes to heat the water and cook the pasta, and you need little more than a salad to round out a meal. Because dry pasta is such a perfect pantry item, you can count on it for last-minute dinners or for unexpected guests. Kids will almost always eat pasta eagerly. It seems that everyone loves pasta.

Pasta is nutritious—high in B vitamins, iron, and protein (it contains 6 of 8 essential amino acids), and low in fat, sodium, and calories. Whole grain pastas are higher in protein, iron, and fiber and have fewer calories than refined flour pastas. If in the past you gave up on whole wheat pasta because of its gummy texture, try again. We’ve found some truly pleasing whole grain pastas with full-bodied textures and flavors. And it needn’t contain wheat to be pasta; try those made from rice, buckwheat, kamut, corn, quinoa, and spelt.

Pastas can be divided into two quite different types—fresh and dried. Fresh pastas are widely available in the refrigerator case in most supermarkets. Fresh pasta is always an egg pasta with a softer texture and richer flavor than dried pasta. Take care not to overcook fresh pasta; it’s usually done in just a minute or two.

Because fresh pastas don’t have the “bite” and firm texture characteristic of good dried pasta, we prefer to use dried pastas at the restaurant. Made from water and semolina flour that’s ground from hard durum wheat, most dried pasta is made in factories, where the extremely stiff dough is extruded at high pressure through holes in dies, a process that can’t be duplicated at home.

As a rule, imported Italian dried pastas are because in Italy, where pasta is a national obsession, the government imposes rigid standards for ingredients, additives, and production processes, resulting in a firmer, tastier, more nutritious product. We recommend that you spend a little more to buy imported Italian pastas. At Moosewood, we like DeCecco, which is widely available in this country.

Don’t let the topping overpower or disguise the pasta—the noodle should be the main attraction. There are hundreds of shapes and sizes of pastas, and the choice of which pasta to use with a particular sauce follows a certain logic. In general, long strands such as spaghetti and linguini work well with tomato sauces and pestos. Bowl-shaped cuts such as orecchietti and shells are good to serve with chunky vegetable sauces because those shapes catch and hold the pieces of vegetable. Flat noodles like fettuccine or farfalle go well with delicate cream or cheese sauces. But we would never forgo a pasta dish just because we didn’t have the most proper shape on hand, and you shouldn’t either.

We serve pasta in wide, shallow bowls with sloping sides. Pasta is not a dish to linger over—enjoy it while it’s hot. Sophia Loren attributes her own ample charms to a lifetime of pasta. And here’s her good advice on pasta etiquette: “Spaghetti can be eaten successfully if you inhale it like a vacuum cleaner.”

aromatic whole wheat pasta

The simple charm of onions, carrots, celery, garlic, and parsley, along with the sharp bite of arugula, stand up well to the nutty robustness of whole wheat pasta.

The vegetables in the pasta sauce take different amounts of time to cook and we have listed them from longest cooking to shortest. To save time, sauté the first vegetable while you prepare the next; then add that one to the skillet while you dice the next.

This is quite a filling pasta, probably most appealing in cool weather. Serve with something light and refreshing, such as a tomato salad or a green salad with orange sections. Maybe figs for dessert?

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cups diced onions

1 cup peeled and diced carrots

1 cup diced celery

1 tablespoon minced garlic

¼ cup Marsala, red wine, or vegetable broth

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

12 ounces whole wheat pasta, preferably a chunky shape such as elbows, penne, or small shells

1 cup finely chopped arugula or Swiss chard

1 teaspoon salt

ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon exta-virgin olive oil

½ to 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the olive oil on medium heat. Add in order, the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and sauté until the vegetables are just tender. Add the Marsala and parsley, cover, lower the heat, and gently simmer.

When the water boils, add the pasta, stir, cover the pot, and bring back to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente. Meanwhile, add the greens to the vegetables and stir for 1 minute, until bright-colored and wilted. Add the salt and pepper, cover, and set aside.

When the pasta is al dente, drain it and toss with the extra-virgin olive oil. Spoon the vegetables over the pasta and serve immediately, passing the grated cheese at the table.

PER 16-OUNCE SERVING: 507 CALORIES, 20.8 G PROTEIN, 13.4 G FAT, 80.5 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 17.7 MG CHOLESTEROL, 859.4 MG SODIUM, 10 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

cabbage & noodles

Total time: at least 1 hour

We received this recipe from Alan Warshawsky, a former Moosewood cook and one of the best chefs we know. An Eastern European supper dish, full of the sweet flavors of caramelized onions and cabbage, it is nothing short of glorious comfort food. If you have the time, let the cabbage cook for an hour or more, being careful not to scorch it: the longer it cooks, the sweeter its flavor. Since this is hardly low-fat to begin with, go for a dab of sour cream on your portion and live a little.

For a warming winter meal, serve it with fresh applesauce and rye bread.

2 cups thinly sliced onions

¼ cup unsalted butter

1½ tablespoons paprika

8 cups finely shredded cabbage (about 1½ pounds)

2 teaspoons salt

12 ounces fine or medium-wide egg noodles

freshly ground black pepper to taste

dollop of sour cream (optional)

In a pot with a tight lid, cook the onions in the butter on medium heat until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the paprika and sauté for a few seconds more. Stir in the cabbage, add the salt, and continue to cook for 5 more minutes, stirring now and then. Cover tightly and cook on very low heat for 40 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is very soft and brown.

When the cabbage is almost done, cook the noodles in boiling water until al dente. Drain them and toss well with the cabbage mixture. Add a generous amount of pepper and, if you like, top with a dollop of sour cream.

PER 16.75-OUNCE SERVING: 472 CALORIES, 13.7 G PROTEIN, 16 G FAT, 71 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 104.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,224.3 MG SODIUM, 7.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

orecchiette with butter beans

The flavors of southern Italy characterize this delicious main-dish pasta. The bitter edge of broccoli rabe is somewhat tamed when combined with mild, buttery beans, mellow garlic, and aged provolone cheese. Orecchiette (little ears) is the traditional homemade pasta of Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot, but you can use any short chunky pasta. The convenience of canned beans makes this great everynight fare.

Serve with Flavored Olives, crisp breaded eggplant slices, and one of our Cucumber Side Salads. Pass extra cheese or a cruet of extra-virgin olive oil at the table, if desired.

1 large bunch of broccoli rabe (1½ pounds)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons minced garlic

¼ to ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1½ cups cooked butter beans (15.5-ounce can, drained)*

1 pound orecchiette or other short pasta shape

1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes

½ cup grated sharp provolone or Pecorino Romano

* Cannellini or Roman beans can be substituted.

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Trim any dry bottoms from the broccoli rabe stems and discard. Cut the broccoli rabe, stems, leaves, and all, into 1-inch lengths. You’ll have about 9 cups of chopped broccoli rabe.

In a large, heavy frying pan, warm the oil and sauté the broccoli rabe and garlic for 7 or 8 minutes, until the broccoli rabe is bright green. Add the crushed red pepper flakes and butter beans, lower the heat, and keep warm until the pasta is cooked.

When the water boils, add the pasta, stir, and cook just until al dente. Drain and transfer to a large serving bowl. Toss the pasta with the sautéed bean mixture, the tomatoes, and the grated cheese.

Serve immediately.

PER 13-OUNCE SERVING: 414 CALORIES, 17.4 G PROTEIN, 6.7 G FAT, 71.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 6.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 300.8 MG SODIUM, 7.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pad thai

Pad Thai is probably the most popular item on most Thai restaurant menus. In Thailand, this one-dish meal can be served at any time, from an early-morning breakfast to a midnight snack. Every street vendor in Bangkok has his or her own version.

We highly recommend a healthy squeeze of fresh lime to finish this dish.

8-ounce package of ¼-inch-wide rice stick noodles

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 to 2 teaspoons Chinese chili paste

1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate

½ cup water

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

1 cup diced red bell peppers

1 cup snow peas, strings removed

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

chopped peanuts, mung bean sprouts, lime wedges

Soak the noodles in warm water for 20 minutes, until soft and limp. Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, chili paste, tamarind, and water in a small bowl and set the sauce aside. Drain the soaked noodles, rinse in cold water, and drain well again.

Have all of the prepared ingredients nearby before you begin to stir-fry.

Heat a large wok or skillet on medium-high heat. Pour in 1 tablespoon of the oil and when it’s very hot, after about 30 seconds, add the tofu and stir-fry gently for 1 minute. Add the bell peppers and snow peas and stir-fry for another 2 minutes. Remove the tofu and vegetables and set aside.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil to the wok. When the oil is hot, pour the eggs into the center and stir briskly for a few seconds. Add the reserved sauce, drained rice noodles, and the tofu and vegetables, and toss well. Cook for 3 or 4 minutes, until the noodles are tender and the mixture is dry.

Transfer the Pad Thai to a large platter and sprinkle with the cilantro. Add a smattering of peanuts and mung sprouts and surround the noodles with lime wedges. Serve immediately.

PER 10-OUNCE SERVING: 433 CALORIES, 12.7 G PROTEIN, 17.2 G FAT, 57.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 4.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 132.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 558.3 MG SODIUM, 3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pasta with asparagus & lemon

Adapted from a Faith Willinger recipe, this simple, fresh-tasting dish is a celebration of new spring asparagus. We’ve chosen penne and casarecce for this recipe because their shapes resemble bite-sized asparagus pieces. Penne is a tube-shaped pasta, and casarecce is a double-tubed pasta that looks like a miniature rolled-up scroll.

Total time: 35 minutes

1½ pounds asparagus

1 pound penne or casarecce pasta

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

salt and black pepper to taste

¼ cup grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

Meanwhile, rinse the asparagus, snap off the tough lower stems, and discard them. Cut off 1½ inches of the asparagus tips and reserve. Chop the rest of the stems. Cook the asparagus tips in boiling water to cover for 3 or 4 minutes, until tender. Remove to a colander with a slotted spoon and set aside. In the same pot blanch the chopped asparagus stems for 6 or 7 minutes, until tender. Drain, rinse in cold water, and reserve separately.

Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente. While the pasta cooks, purée the asparagus stems, lemon juice, and olive oil in a blender or food processor until smooth. If necessary, add a little of the hot pasta water. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Drain the pasta and transfer it to a large bowl. Stir in the asparagus purée, the asparagus tips, and the grated cheese. If the pasta has cooled, stir it in a pot on high heat for 1 or 2 minutes, until hot. Serve immediately.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 433 CALORIES, 15.4 G PROTEIN, 13 G FAT, 64.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 4.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 115 MG SODIUM, 4.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

middle eastern lentils & pasta

Kosherie is the traditional name for this dish. It is made of lentils, macaroni, and rice, flavored with a hot sauce and wonderful crispy onions. It’s popular in Egypt, in both city and countryside, and you might call it fast food Egyptian-style. In Cairo there are restaurants where kosherie is the only offering and small, medium, or large the only choice. Imagine the day when we can buy food like this from an American fast food chain!

Total time: about 1 hour

Even though there are several parts to this dish, nothing is really difficult to do. Just think of it as a dance on top of the stove: Pots bubbling away on every burner waiting for the right moment to step in and take the lead. Setting a timer or two is probably not a bad idea to help you keep the rhythm.

If you prefer brown basmati rice to white, begin to cook it as your first step.

4 cups coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 fresh green chile, chopped

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

rice

1 cup white basmati rice

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1½ cups water

½ teaspoon salt

pasta

vegetable oil for frying

4 cups thinly sliced small onions

¼ teaspoon salt

1½ quarts salted water

1½ cups elbow macaroni

In a small covered saucepan, bring the lentils, water, and salt to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, about 40 minutes; stir occasionally. When the lentils are done, drain them if all of the water has not been absorbed.

While the lentils cook, purée the tomatoes, garlic, chile, oil, vinegar, and salt in a blender. Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer briskly, uncovered, until thick, about 20 to 25 minutes. Stir occasionally as the sauce begins to cook, and more frequently as it thickens.

While the lentils and hot sauce simmer, cook the rice. Rinse the rice well in a sieve and drain. Warm the oil in a saucepan and add the rice, water, and salt. Cover and bring to a boil; then reduce the heat and simmer on very low heat, until the water is absorbed and the rice is done, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour about ½ inch of oil into a medium cast-iron or nonstick skillet. On high heat, warm the oil until it is very hot, almost smoking. Add about half of the onions. Fry, stirring often, until the onions are quite brown, about 10 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle the onions with ⅛ teaspoon of the salt. Repeat with the rest of the onions.

As you begin to fry the second batch of onions, bring a pot of salted water to a boil for the macaroni. By now the hot sauce has probably finished cooking, so you have a free burner! Cook the pasta until al dente and then drain.

To serve, mound the cooked lentils, macaroni, and rice in adjoining piles on a large platter. Sprinkle with the fried onions and top with some of the hot sauce.

Serve immediately and pass the rest of the hot sauce at the table.

PER 23-OUNCE SERVING: 542 CALORIES, 19.1 G PROTEIN, 7.1 G FAT, 103.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,373.8 MG SODIUM, 12.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pasta with easy summer sauce

What could be better in hot weather than a sauce that needs no cooking at all? Our Easy Summer Sauce only requires a bit of chopping, and the green beans in the recipe cook right along with the pasta.

Intensely flavorful little grape tomatoes launch the tomato season, but you can use a variety of vine-ripened tomatoes diced into ½-inch pieces. If you wish, use more tomatoes than we call for—even doubling the amount. Just for fun, try making the sauce with a multi-colored assortment of heirloom tomatoes.

Pair the pasta with Three Seed Whole Wheat Rolls, grilled zucchini slices, or Braised Fennel with Parmesan, and serve lots of juicy fruit for dessert.

2 cups quartered grape or cherry tomatoes*

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

½ cup minced red onions

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

¼ cup chopped black olives

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar (optional)**

1 pound farfalle or other short

chunky pasta 2 cups cut green beans (2-inch pieces)

½ cup crumbled feta cheese, or more to taste

* Or any variety of tomato diced into ½-inch pieces.

** Taste the tomato mixture to decide if your tomatoes “want” the additional vinegar.

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, combine the tomatoes, parsley, basil, red onions, garlic, olives, oil, salt, pepper, and vinegar, if using, in a large bowl.

When the water boils, stir in the pasta, cover, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. When the water returns to a boil, add the green beans and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the pasta is al dente and the beans are tender. Drain well.

Add the pasta and green beans to the bowl with the seasoned tomatoes. Stir in the feta cheese and gently toss everything together. Serve hot or at room temperature.

PER 13.5-OUNCE SERVING: 480 CALORIES, 13.5 G PROTEIN, 16.7 G FAT, 70.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 8.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 823.4 MG SODIUM, 5.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pasta with zucchini & mascarpone

Of course, you can make this pasta almost any time of year, but it’s a really lovely, delicate dish when the zucchini is at its seasonal best: small and firm with glossy skin. A large nonstick skillet works best here, but if you don’t have one, a large cast-iron frying pan will do. However, you may need to add about 3 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water to the sautéing zucchini to prevent sticking.

Total time: 40 minutes

Accompany this pasta with a chewy bread, Perfect Tomato Salad, a side of green beans, and maybe juicy, ripe sliced peaches for dessert.

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 cups finely chopped onions

6 cups sliced baby zucchini*

3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 pound farfalle (bow-tie pasta)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 cup mascarpone cheese

2 pinches of freshly grated nutmeg

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

freshly ground black pepper (optional)

* Slice the zucchini in half lengthwise and then cut into ½-inch-thick semi-circles.

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions on medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the zucchini and garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, until the zucchini is crisp-tender, 7 or 8 minutes. Cover to keep warm until the pasta is ready.

When the water boils, add the pasta, stir, and cover the pot. When it returns to a boil, uncover the pot and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain and transfer it to a large warmed bowl.

Stir the lemon juice, mascarpone cheese, and nutmeg into the sautéed zucchini. Add the skillet mixture along with all of the pan juices to the pasta and toss well. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and, if you wish, add pepper.

Serve hot.

PER 14-OUNCE SERVING: 464 CALORIES, 15.3 G PROTEIN, 13.6 G FAT, 73.6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 6.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 28.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 123.5 MG SODIUM, 5.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

roasted vegetables for pasta

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Roasting time: 30 minutes

Roasted vegetables served on a bed of pasta puts a new spin on classic comfort food. Try them topped with a sprinkling of Parmesan or feta cheese.

To ensure even cooking and a pleasing appearance, cut all of the vegetables into approximately 1-inch cubes or pieces. Seed the zucchini if it has a very seedy center. Roasted vegetables are best served soon after baking. If you’re not serving them right away, leave them on the baking sheet; when hot roasted vegetables sit in a serving bowl for too long, they steam and lose some of their special roasted texture.

2 cups chopped onions

2 cups chopped green or red bell peppers

2 cups quartered and sliced zucchini

3 cups chopped cremini or portabello mushrooms

4 cups chopped fresh tomatoes

¼ cup olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1½ teaspoons ground fennel seeds

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1 pound orzo, orecchiette, or conchigliette

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Place the onions, bell peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, and tomatoes in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, garlic, fennel, salt, and pepper. Pour the seasoned oil over the vegetables and toss to coat well.

Spread the vegetables in a single layer on one or two nonreactive baking sheets. Roast for 15 minutes, remove from the oven, stir in the basil, and return the baking sheet to the oven. Roast for 10 minutes more, stir again, and continue to roast until the vegetables are tender and browned, about 5 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente. Drain and serve immediately topped with the roasted vegetables.

PER 26-OUNCE SERVING: 670 CALORIES, 19.3 G PROTEIN, 17.6 G FAT, 112.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,222.9 MG SODIUM, 9.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

vegetable pho with shrimp

Many good Vietnamese dishes are a beautiful marriage of Southeast Asian with French and Chinese cuisines, evidence that creativity can blossom under the most adverse circumstances.

Total time: 1¼ hours

The stock may be made ahead of time, and even frozen, but the soup should be served as soon as it’s ready. To garnish with fried shallots, check out the recipe in Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special page 343.

Don’t combine leftover soup and rice noodles: pho disintegrate when kept in liquid. Store pho and soup separately or make fresh noodles to use with reheated soup.

stock

2 cups chopped onions

1 cup peeled and chopped carrots

⅓ cup chopped celery

4 large garlic cloves, peeled

12-inch fresh lemongrass stalk, cut into 2-inch pieces

2-inch piece of peeled ginger root

shells of ½ pound medium shrimp, shrimp reserved

soup

½ pound rice stick noodles (¼ inch wide)

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

2 cups 1-inch carrot matchsticks

2 cups 1-inch cut green beans *

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

2 to 4 tablespoons fish sauce

½ to 1 teaspoon salt to taste

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 cups mung or soybean sprouts

minced scallions, red onions, or fried shallots

* Or use 2 cups thinly sliced snow peas added at the same time as the lime juice.

Combine the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, lemongrass, ginger root, and 7 cups of water in a 4-quart pot. Add the shrimp shells and bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the stock, return it to the pot, add 1 cup of water, and set aside.

In a second pot, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Stir in the rice noodles and cook until al dente. Drain, rinse, and drain again. Toss with the sesame oil and set aside.

Return the stock to a simmer, add the carrots and green beans, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until pink, 2 more minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice, cilantro, fish sauce, salt, and pepper.

Evenly apportion sprouts and noodles into soup bowls. Ladle on the soup and top with scallions, onions, or fried shallots.

PER 11.5-OUNCE SERVING: 237 CALORIES, 11.1 G PROTEIN, 3.4 G FAT, 42.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 67.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 730.9 MG SODIUM, 5.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

trenette al pesto

This appealing green and white dish is a regional Italian classic in Liguria, particularly in Genoa, although our version has more green beans than is typical. Trenette is a square-cut ribbon pasta, which, cooked with green beans and potatoes and coated with pesto, makes a satisfying meal.

The starch from the potatoes makes this seem almost creamy. Any potato will do, but we prefer waxier kinds, such as Yukon Gold, because they hold their shape. Choose a good firm pasta, such as DeCecco brand.

Made with purchased pesto sauce, this pasta dish couldn’t be easier; however, it takes only minutes to make fresh pesto, and it tastes way better. Pesto made without cheese freezes very well, so when basil is abundant, make extra pesto and freeze some.

Serve with Flavored Olives, Bread Sticks, Perfect Tomato Salad, a glass of wine, fresh fruit, and Black Forest Biscotti with espresso.

pesto sauce

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves

¼ cup lightly toasted pine nuts

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

6 to 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 or 3 medium potatoes, preferably Yukon Gold

1 pound green beans, trimmed

1 pound pasta, such as trenette, linguine, or casarecce

extra-virgin olive oil and/or grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, combine the pesto ingredients and purée until you have a rough paste, scraping down the sides as necessary. You will have about 1 cup.

Peel the potatoes. Cut them lengthwise into quarters and then crosswise into ¼-inch slices to make about 2 cups. Cut the green beans into 2-inch lengths to make about 4 cups.

When the water is boiling vigorously, add the potatoes and then the pasta. Stir well and cover. After 2 minutes, add the green beans, stir, and cover. When the pasta is al dente, about 5 minutes, drain, reserving 2 cups of the cooking water. Test the pasta frequently to avoid overcooking.

In a large serving bowl, toss together the pasta and vegetables, the pesto sauce, and about 1 cup of the cooking water. Add more cooking water as needed to coat the pasta with a moist sauce.

Serve immediately. At the table, pass a cruet of good olive oil for drizzling over the pasta and extra grated cheese, if you wish.

PER 13-OUNCE SERVING: 552 CALORIES, 18.2 G PROTEIN, 23.9 G FAT, 68.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 5.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 74.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 430.1 MG SODIUM, 7.1 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variation

Try with Garlic Scape Pesto, substitute cauliflower or fresh fava beans for the green beans, and top with diced fresh tomatoes.

greens & soft polenta

Serves 4 as a main dish, 6 to 8 as a side dish

Recently, we’ve seen versions of this rustic dish on several up-scale restaurant menus-traditional peasant food morphing into gourmet cuisine. Sautéed greens make a good foil for the soft polenta. Try polenta with other greens, too, such as escarole, endive, arugula, or Swiss chard.

1 bunch of broccoli rabe

½ teaspoon ground fennel seeds

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

¼ teaspoon salt

Cut off and discard the tough bottoms of the broccoli rabe stems. Coarsely chop the broccoli rabe, stems and all, to make about 6 cups. Rinse well and set aside in a colander to drain.

Bring the water to a boil in a large pot and slowly pour in the cornmeal while stirring briskly with a whisk or a wooden spoon. Break up any lumps that form. Simmer on low heat, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and tastes done (see Note). Stir in the salt, fennel, and the cheese, if using. Add pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy pan. Add the garlic and salt and sauté on medium heat just until the garlic is golden. Add the broccoli rabe, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes or until tender. Set aside until the polenta is done.

Serve the polenta in a bowl with the broccoli rabe on top or stirred in.

PER 5.5-OUNCE SERVING: 98 CALORIES, 3.1 G PROTEIN, 2.3 G FAT, 17 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 237.5 MG SODIUM, 2.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

The coarseness of the grind, variety of corn, and whether or not it’s roasted all influence the cornmeal-water ratio and the cooking time. Finely ground cornmeal might be done after just a few minutes of simmering; coarsely ground and stone-ground cornmeals may need to simmer for up to 45 minutes. With any cornmeal, you may need to add hot water during cooking.

moroccan roasted vegetables

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Baking time: 40 minutes

The colorful roasted vegetables in this recipe are softer and saucier than typical roasted vegetables, but the high heat and rapid cooking still infuse the vegetables with a roasted flavor and an intoxicating aroma.

Serve over a grain, such as couscous, topped with toasted almonds, raisins, chopped hard-cooked eggs, or grated feta cheese for a balanced, ready-to-eat meal.

1 medium onion, cut into ¼-inch slices *

1 medium zucchini, cut into ¼-inch-thick semi-circles*

1 small eggplant, cut into ½-inch-thick semi-circles*

1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick semi-circles*

1 large red bell pepper, sliced into ¼-inch strips*

2 medium fresh tomatoes, chopped*

1½ cups cooked chickpeas (15.5-ounce can, drained)

3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1½ teaspoons turmeric

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1½ teaspoons paprika

¼ teaspoon cayenne

2 teaspoons salt

* If you like measuring, aim for 1½ to 3 cups of each vegetable—about 11 to 12 cups total.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

In a large bowl, thoroughly mix together the onions, zucchini, eggplant, sweet potatoes, bell peppers, tomatoes, chickpeas, garlic, oil, lemon juice, and seasonings.

Spread the vegetables onto an unoiled 11 × 17-inch baking tray. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and stir well; then bake for another 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.

Serve warm.

PER 15-OUNCE SERVING: 296 CALORIES, 8.1 G PROTEIN, 9.5 G FAT, 48.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1473.1 MG SODIUM, 10.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

roasted winter vegetables

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Baking time: about 1 hour

Here in the Finger Lakes region of New York State, the kitchen becomes a toasty haven come the first chilly nights of autumn. As these vegetables slowly roast, the room fills with an aroma that is both earthy and divine.

The root vegetables that come in the later harvests particularly lend themselves to roasting. The sweetness of the onions and carrots intensifies as their sugars caramelize and the creamy potatoes develop a crisp crust. They are perfect partners for the sharper flavors of parsnips and turnips.

The carrots should be cut in half lengthwise and then sliced into ½-inch semi-circles, so they’ll be tender when the other vegetables are ready. For even roasting cut the parsnips, turnips, and potatoes into 1-inch cubes.

¼ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1½ tablespoons dried sage

2 teaspoons dried thyme

3 teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 cups coarsely chopped onions

2 cups peeled and sliced carrots

2 cups peeled and cubed parsnips

2 cups peeled and cubed turnips

2 cups cubed potatoes *

grated feta, Parmesan, or Cheddar cheese (optional)

* Yukon Gold, Butter, or red-skinned potatoes are creamy, waxy varieties good for roasting.

Preheat the oven to 450°.

Whisk together the oil, vinegar, sage, thyme, salt, and pepper. Place the onions, carrots, parsnips, turnips, and potatoes in a large bowl and toss well with the seasoned oil mixture to coat the vegetables evenly. Spread in a single layer on an unoiled shallow 11 × 17-inch baking sheet or use two baking sheets.

Bake for about 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes, until crispy, browned, and tender. Serve topped with a little grated cheese, if you wish.

PER 13-OUNCE SERVING: 323 CALORIES, 4.8 G PROTEIN, 15.2 G FAT, 45.3 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1,860.5 MG SODIUM, 5.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

lovely low-fat latkes

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Baking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Latkes are a traditional favorite for the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, but you can enjoy our delectable low-fat version any time. We use matzo meal because it makes the pancakes lighter than flour will. Some people find hand-grating the vegetables produces the very best latkes, but a good-quality food processor will also work.

To hand-grate a peeled onion, pat it dry and hold onto it with an all-purpose gripping cloth or a small dish cloth.

Serve with Simplest Ever Applesauce or Light Sour Cream.

8 cups peeled, grated, and drained potatoes (6 or 7 potatoes)*

1 cup peeled, grated, and drained onions*

2 eggs, lightly beaten

¼ cup matzo meal

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper, or more to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, Italian parsley, and/or scallions (optional)

1 to 2 teaspoons vegetable oil

* We like Yukon Gold or Butter potatoes. Drain the grated potatoes and onions in a colander, pressing out as much liquid as possible with a fork: the drier the potato mixture, the lighter the latkes.

Preheat the oven to 425°. Lightly spray two nonstick baking sheets with oil.

In a bowl, mix together the potatoes and onions and stir in the eggs. Sprinkle in the matzo meal, salt, baking powder, and pepper and mix well. If you wish, add the chives, parsley, and/or scallions.

Drop well-spaced, generous tablespoons of batter onto the prepared trays. Gently flatten the batter with a spatula or the bottom of a glass: Use just enough pressure to

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven, brush or spray the latkes with the oil, carefully flip them with a spatula, and continue to bake for 15 minutes more, until browned and crisp.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 202 CALORIES, 5.6 G PROTEIN, 2.5 G FAT, 39.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 66.1 MG CHOLESTEROL, 364.9 MG SODIUM, 3.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variation

Instead of baking, you can use two large nonstick, lightly oiled skillets to fry the latkes. Fry each side for about 5 minutes, spraying or brushing with oil before flipping.

dressed-up salmon cakes