Moosewood Restaurant New Classics: 350 Recipes for Homestyle Favorites and Everyday Feasts

A whole family of strudels and related tortas and boreks have appeared on the menu here at Moosewood Restaurant and this is one that always wins raves. It has an elegant balance of flavors sure to impress and delight.

Baking time: 45 minutes

Sitting time: 15 minutes

Serve this strudel as a main dish with a salad of spinach with Strawberry Dressing or in smaller portions as part of a combination platter with Artichoke Soup Provençal and Shredded Carrot Salad with Horseradish Dressing.

filling

8 ounces Neufchâtel or cream cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cups rinsed and chopped leeks*

5 cups stemmed and thinly sliced asparagus

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup low-fat or regular cottage cheese

½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese

4 eggs, lightly beaten

filo

½ to ⅔ pound filo dough

2 tablespoons butter, melted

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

* Cut off the root end of the leeks and the tough dark green leaves, leaving only the white and tender green parts of the leek. Immerse the stalks in water to remove obvious sand and grit. Slice vertically down the center of the bulb, separate its layers, and submerge again. Transfer to a colander and rinse again under running water until the sand is gone.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Lightly oil a 10 × 13-inch baking tray.

Cut the Neufchâtel into several pieces, place in a large bowl, and set aside in a warm place to soften. In a large frying pan, warm the oil. Add the leeks, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, cover, and cook on medium heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the asparagus and sauté for 5 minutes more, until bright green and tender. Toss the sautéed vegetables, tarragon, flour, salt, and pepper with the Neufchâtel. Thoroughly mix in the cottage cheese, Gruyère and Cheddar cheeses, and the eggs.

Lay the filo on a dry surface and cover with a clean, lightly dampened towel (see Note). Combine the butter and oil in a small bowl. Place a pastry brush and the bowl of butter-oil within easy reach. Arrange two sheets of filo pastry in the prepared baking tray, allowing the excess filo to drape over the sides. Lightly brush the top sheet with the butter-oil. Repeat three more times for a total of eight filo sheets.

Spread the filling evenly over the filo in the baking tray. Fold all four sides of the filo up over the filling to make a border, and brush with the butter-oil. Top with the remaining filo, two sheets at a time, brushing each layer as before. Tuck under the edges to fit the baking tray. Sprinkle the top with sesame seeds.

Bake until golden and puffy, about 45 minutes. Let sit for 15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.

PER B OUNCE SERVING: 443 CALORIES, 19.9 G PROTEIN, 33.5 G FAT, 17.2 G CARBOHYDRATES, 13 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 186.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 683.9 MG SODIUM, 1.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

Unoiled filo becomes brittle once exposed to the air, so work quickly or keep a damp towel on the not-yet-used filo while you work. It’s also helpful to work in a draft-free spot.

kale & red pepper strudel

Serves 6

Preparation time: 1 hour

Baking time: 45 minutes

Cooling time: 15 minutes

We’ve created a number of recipes in this cookbook that combine tofu and cheese. The tofu adds all of the well-known health benefits of soy foods as well as bulk—but with a lighter texture than cheese. Of course, we still love the rich flavor of cheese, so why not get the best of both worlds?

Our creamy filling boasts the goodness of tofu and the yumminess of cheese. When combined with bright green kale, vibrant red peppers, rosemary, garlic, and parsley, it makes an exquisite filling for the flaky filo.

The amount of filo you need will depend on the size of your baking pan and the size of your filo sheets. A good rule of thumb is to use eight single layers of filo on the bottom, spread on the filling, and top with at least eight more layers of filo. The more layers (within reason), the more puffed and beautiful the strudel will be.

filling

1½ cups chopped onions

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

4 to 5 cups rinsed, stemmed, and chopped kale

1¼ cups diced red bell peppers

1 scant teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

1 cake firm tofu (12 ounces), crumbled

1 cup Neufchâtel, at room temperature

1 cup grated sharp Cheddar, Parmesan, or provolone

1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

ground black pepper to taste

filo

½ to ⅔ pound filo dough

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter, or a mixture

½ teaspoon sesame seeds (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°. Lightly butter a 10 × 14-inch baking tray or shallow pan.

Cook the onions in the olive oil on low heat for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, kale, and salt. Cover and cook for about 5 minutes, until the kale wilts, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons of water to prevent sticking, if necessary. Stir in the bell peppers and rosemary. Cover and cook on low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

While the vegetables cook, combine the tofu, Neufchâtel, grated cheese, flour, and parsley in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth and creamy. When the vegetables are ready, drain them if any liquid remains, and stir in the tofu-cheese mixture. Add black pepper to taste and set aside.

Lay the filo on a dry surface and cover with a clean, lightly dampened towel (see Note). Place a pastry brush and a bowl of the oil or melted butter within easy reach. Arrange two sheets of filo pastry in the prepared baking tray, allowing the excess filo to drape over the sides. Lightly brush the top sheet with oil or butter. Repeat three more times for a total of eight filo sheets.

Spread the filling evenly over the filo in the baking tray. Fold all four sides of the filo up over the filling to make a border and brush with oil or butter. Top with the remaining filo, two sheets at a time, brushing each layer with oil or butter. Tuck under the edges to fit the baking tray. Sprinkle the top with sesame seeds, if desired.

Bake until golden and puffy, about 45 minutes. Let sit for 15 minutes before serving.

PER 8.5-OUNCE SERVING: 395 CALORIES, 13.9 G PROTEIN, 31.1 G FAT, 17.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 9.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 34.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 461.9 MG SODIUM, 1.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

Unoiled filo becomes brittle once exposed to the air, so work quickly or keep a damp towel on the not-yet-used filo while you work. It’s also helpful to work in a draft-free spot.

mushroom cheese & tofu strudel

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: about 1 hour

Baking time: 45 to 50 minutes

Cooling time: 15 minutes

In a dish this rich and cheesy, it’s easy to tuck in some healthful tofu with no one the wiser. And as a lower-cholesterol bonus, the tofu will help bind the filling together, making it unnecessary to use eggs. If you are using dried herbs rather than fresh, add them to the skillet after the onions have sautéed for several minutes to soften them and release their full flavor.

We suggest using about 8 layers of filo for the bottom of the strudel and 8 layers of filo on top of the filling. Since sizes vary, we can’t say exactly how many sheets of filo you’ll need, but about ⅔ pound should work well. At Moosewood, we use 12 × 17-inch sheets, which fit nicely into a standard baking pan, one sheet per layer. Filo often comes in 1-pound boxes: If you prefer, use all of the filo by adding a few extra layers to the top.

filling

1½ cups chopped onions

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

4 cups sliced white or cremini mushrooms

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (1 teaspoon dried)

l tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram (1 teaspoon dried)

pinch of ground black pepper

1 cake firm tofu (16 ounces)

1 cup Neufchâtel, at room temperature

1 cup grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

3 to 4 tablespoons butter, melted *

filo

½ to ⅔ pound filo dough

½ teaspoon poppy or sesame seeds (optional)

* Or use a mixture of melted butter and olive oil.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Lightly butter a 9 × 13-inch baking tray or shallow pan.

Sauté the onions in the olive oil for 5 minutes on medium-high heat. Add the garlic and mushrooms (sec Notes) and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the sherry and soy sauce and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the liquid is gone. Remove from the heat and stir in the fresh dill, fresh marjoram, and the pepper. Set the filling aside.

While the vegetables cook, combine the tofu, Ncufchâtel, grated cheese, and flour in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth and creamy. When the vegetables are ready, stir in the tofu-cheese mixture, add the salt, and set aside.

Unfold the filo onto a dry surface and cover with a clean, lightly dampened towel (see Notes). Place a pastry brush and a bowl of the melted butter within easy reach. Arrange two sheets of filo pastry in the prepared baking tray, allowing the excess filo to drape evenly over the sides. Lightly brush the top sheet with the butter. Repeat three more times for a total of eight filo sheets.

Spread the filling evenly over the filo in the baking tray. Fold all four sides of the filo up over the filling to make a border and brush with the butter. Then top with the remaining filo, two sheets at a time, brushing every second sheet with butter. Tuck the edges under to fit the baking tray. Sprinkle the top with poppy or sesame seeds, if desired.

Bake until golden and puffy, 45 to 50 minutes. Let sit for 15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.

PER 6-OUNCE SERVING: 294 CALORIES, 11.5 G PROTEIN, 22.9 G FAT, 12.2 C CARBOHYDRATES, 8.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 37.3 MG CHOLESTEROL, 484.2 MG SODIUM, 1.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

notes

If using dried dill and dried marjoram, add them with the garlic and mushrooms. Unoiled filo becomes brittle once exposed to the air, so work quickly or keep a damp towel on the not-yet-used filo while you work. It’s also helpful to work in a draft-free spot.

pizza with three toppings

Pizza has become a quintessential American comfort food. Ever since Italian immigrants started making pizzas in their neighborhoods, it’s been a hit. Now you find it topped with all sorts of vegetables, cheeses, seafood, meats, and even eggs and fruits. There are pita pizzas, French bread pizzas, English muffin pizzas, taco pizzas, Hawaiian pizzas, and, at Moosewood, our filo pizza with its distinctly Greek or Middle Eastern flair.

Pizza goes great with soup and salad. It’s often eaten for breakfast and is probably one of the healthiest fast foods you can buy. For vegan pizza, just go cheeseless.

Yields two 12- to 15-inch pizza crusts

Initial preparation time: about 25 minutes

Rising time: 55 to 75 minutes

Baking time: about 25 minutes

With this traditional crust, the kind of flour you use will determine the texture. We prefer unbleached white bread flour, which makes for a chewy texture. All-purpose flour is also good, and even pastry flour will work, yielding a tender, lighter crust.

Pizza dough can be frozen after rising. Punch it down and either roll it out or form a ball to be re-kneaded and rolled out into the desired shape after thawing. It takes about 2 hours at room temperature for a ball of dough to defrost. After re-kneading (adding flour if needed) and rolling out the thawed dough, let it rise for about a half hour before baking.

1 tablespoon active dry yeast (one package)

1 teaspoon sugar

1⅓ cups warm water (100° to 120°)

3 cups unbleached white bread flour

½ cup whole wheat flour

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 teaspoons olive oil

1 to 2 cups unbleached white bread flour for kneading

Stir the yeast into the sugar and warm water and set aside to proof until it bubbles and foams, usually about 10 to 12 minutes.

Stir in the flours, salt, and pepper and 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Mix well, adding flour if necessary so that the dough is not sticky, forms a ball, and can be handled. Knead the dough by pressing the ball flat with the heels of your hands, folding it over and pressing down again until flat, and so on for about 10 minutes. Add flour as needed to prevent sticking. (For the health of your back, knead on a fairly low surface if possible, and use the weight of your body to do the work rather than your shoulders and arms.)

Place the ball of kneaded dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a towel. Set aside to rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, usually 40 to 60 minutes.

While the dough is rising, prepare the topping and preheat the oven to 425° to 450°.

Punch down the risen dough and knead for a couple of minutes, adding flour to keep the dough from sticking to the board or your hands. Cut the dough in half to make two crusts. (If you’re going to freeze the dough, now is the time.)

With your hands or a rolling pin, shape each half of the dough into a 12- to 15-inch rectangle or circle. Press down and out from the center of the dough until the crust has reached the desired thickness. Place the dough on a lightly oiled pan and let it rise for about 15 minutes. Add one of the toppings on the following pages. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the bottom of the crust is golden and the dough is firm throughout.

PER 15-OUNCE CRUST: 1, 006 CALORIES, 29 G PROTEIN, 10.1 G FAT, 197.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1, 194.8 MG SODIUM, 10.6 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

spinach, artichoke hearts & jeta

Yields enough for two 14-inch pizzas.

2 cups thinly sliced onions

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried dill weed

10 ounces spinach, stemmed, rinsed, and chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

5 artichoke hearts, quartered (14-ounce can, drained)

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

zucchini & fresh tomatoes with fontina

2 cups crumbled feta cheese (optional)

In a large pot, sauté the onions, garlic, dill, and salt in the oil on medium heat until browned, about 10 minutes. Add the rinsed spinach and cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until mostly wilted. Add the artichoke heart quarters and pepper. Allow to cool for a few minutes before spreading onto the pizza crust. Top with the feta cheese, if using, and bake according to the pizza crust instructions.

PER 5-OUNCE SLICE: 208 CALORIES, 6.8 G PROTEIN, 3 G EAT, 39.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 440.4 MG SODIUM, 4.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

Yields enough for two 14-inch pizzas.

2 cups thinly sliced onions

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds

4 cups sliced zucchini *

2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

caramelized onions & parmesan cheese

2 cups grated Fontina cheese (optional)

* Quarter the zucchini lengthwise, and then slice crosswise into bite-sized pieces.

In a skillet or large saucepan, sauté the onions, garlic, and salt in the olive oil on medium heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until translucent. Add the ground fennel and zucchini and cook until the zucchini starts to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the tomatoes and basil. Allow to cool somewhat and drain any excess liquid before spreading on the pizza crust. Then top with cheese, if you wish, and bake according to the pizza crust directions.

PER 6-OUNCE SLICE: 201 CALORIES, 5.8 G PROTEIN, 2.7 G FAT, 38.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 602 MG SODIUM, 3.2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

Yields enough for two 14-inch pizzas.

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

6 cups thinly sliced onions

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

In a heavy skillet, combine the oil, garlic, onions, and salt and cook on medium heat until the onions are browned, 10 to 12 minutes. If sticking becomes a problem, add a little water. Let the onions cool a bit before spreading them on the pizza crust. Sprinkle the Parmesan on top, if using, and bake according to the pizza crust directions.

PER 5-OUNCE SLICE: 206 CALORIES, 5.7 G PROTEIN, 3 G FAT, 39.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 398.8 MG SODIUM, 2.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

vegan turnovers

Baking time: 20 to 25 minutes

These enticing savory turnovers make an impressive appearance at the dinner table—hot, puffed, flaky, and golden brown. The creamy tofu filling is snappy with sun-dried tomatoes, nutritious with greens, and full of herbs and spices. Serve two per plate (or one for those with daintier appetites) with a bright colorful vegetable on the side and it’s quite smashing.

We suggest kale, spinach, chard, collards, mizuna, arugula, or some combination of these for the 4 cups of greens in the recipe. Use fresh dill or basil whenever possible. If you must use their dried counterparts, add them earlier in the cooking process along with the thyme and fennel.

1 cake firm tofu (16 ounces)

⅓ cup sun-dried tomatoes, (not oil-packed)*

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup chopped onions

¼ teaspoon salt, or less to taste

4 cups rinsed, stemmed, and chopped greens pinch of dried thyme

½ teaspoon freshly ground fennel seeds

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or basil (1 teaspoon dried)

¾ pound filo pastry (12 × 17-inch sheets)**

¼ cup olive oil

* If you like, replace the sun-dried tomatoes with chopped, pitted kalamata, Sicilian green, Niçoise, or Spanish olives.

** You can use puff pastry instead of the filo. See our variation at the end of the recipe.

Place the tofu between two plates, weight the top plate with a heavy object, and press for 20 minutes. Place the sun-dried tomatoes in a heat-proof bowl, cover with boiling water, and set aside.

Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large skillet. Add the onions and salt and sauté on medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, or until translucent. Add the greens, thyme, and fennel; then cover, lower the heat, and continue to cook for another 5 to 10 minutes, stirring often until the greens are tender but still bright green. Drain and set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor (see Notes), crumble the pressed tofu and add the garlic, lemon juice, and the dill or basil. Process until the mixture is smooth and creamy. In a bowl, combine the tofu mixture with the drained cooked greens and mix well. Drain and chop the sun-dried tomatoes and fold them into the filling.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Lightly oil two baking sheets.

Unfold 16 sheets of filo on a clean, dry working surface. Have the filling, the oil, and a pastry brush nearby (see Notes). Take two sheets of filo from the stack and place them with the short sides facing you. Brush lightly with oil and neatly fold in half lengthwise. Brush the strip with oil. Place ½ cup of filling at the near end of the rectangle. Fold the lower left corner up and over diagonally until the bottom edge is flush with the right side and you have a triangle at the end. Keep folding the triangle up, as you would a flag, to make a triangular pastry. Brush both sides with a little oil and place on the prepared baking sheet.

Repeat to make eight pastries in all. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the turnovers are golden brown and slightly puffed.

PER 6.5-OUNCE SERVING: 355 CALORIES, 9.6 G PROTEIN, 27.8 G FAT, 20.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 370.9 MG SODIUM, 2 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

notes

If you don’t have a food processor, crush the tofu in a bowl with a potato masher and vigorously mash in the garlic, lemon juice, and fresh herbs.

Unoiled filo becomes brittle once exposed to the air, so keep a damp towel on the not-yet-used filo while you work. It’s also helpful to work in a draft-free spot. A new inexpensive 2-inch paint brush works great as a filo pastry brush.

variation

If you prefer to use puff pastry instead of filo, thaw it according to the instructions on the package. Depending on the type of puffed pastry, divide each strip into 3 equal squarish pieces or cut each large sheet into 4 equal pieces. With a rolling pin, roll each piece into a 7-inch square. Place ⅓ to ½ cup of filling in the center of each square. Fold the 4 corners up and toward the center, twist to form a little topknot, and gently pinch the side seams together. Place each pastry on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes.

wild mushroom sauté

As simple and robust as it is, Wild Mushroom Sauté is still a show-off dish. You get wonderfully deep flavor with this hot sauté method, which sears and browns the surfaces quickly. This is one time you shouldn’t use a nonstick skillet, because the pan won’t get hot enough to do the job.

Total time: 30 minutes

Choose a variety of mushrooms. Use a big portabello for its meatiness and bulk and then smaller amounts of several different wild mushrooms. Look for fresh-looking mushrooms with firm, dry stems, unblemished caps, and a pleasant, earthy smell.

Wild Mushroom Sauté is rich and woodsy served over Orange Saffron Rice, pasta, creamy Low-fat Garlic Mashed Potatoes, or Breaded Polenta Cutlets. Leftovers? Use them on crostini or pizza, on a burger, or in omelettes, beans, or tomato sauce.

8 cups assorted wild mushrooms*

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon dried thyme (1 tablespoon fresh)

⅓ cup dry wine or sherry, marsala, vegetable broth, or tomato juice ground black pepper to taste

* We suggest shiitake, oyster, morels, cremini, chanterelles, portabellos, porcini, or golden trumpets (page ooo). You’ll need about 1½ pounds all together.

Trim the mushroom stem ends. Remove and discard shiitake stems because they don’t soften when cooked. Leave small shiitake caps whole; cut the larger ones in half. Separate oyster mushrooms and other mushrooms that grow in clumps into smaller bunches. Chop portabellos into 1-inch pieces. Cut other mushrooms lengthwise, in fairly large halves or quarters. Separate the mushrooms into two groups: the tougher ones, like portabellos, oysters, porcini, and cremini, and the more tender, like shiitake, morels, chanterelles, and golden trumpets. Gently wipe off any grit clinging to the mushrooms with a soft brush or a damp towel without immersing or rinsing them.

If you have a 12-inch skillet, you can cook all of the mushrooms together, pushing the first batch to the sides of the skillet while you sauté the more delicate batch in the middle. If not, use two frying pans and divide the mushrooms and other ingredients between them. Avoid overcrowding; it prevents the mushrooms from searing properly. As a result, they cook too slowly and release too many juices.

Heat the skillet on high heat until just smoking. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the sturdier group of mushrooms. Sauté on high heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Push those mushrooms to the side and add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the rest of the mushrooms, and the garlic. Lower the heat and sauté, stirring frequently, for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the mushrooms exude some juice and begin to shrink.

Stir in the salt, parsley, and thyme. Return the heat to high and add the wine or other liquid. Scrape the bottom of the pan to stir up any browned mushroom juices and cook until the liquid is nearly evaporated, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and add pepper to taste. Serve hot from the skillet or make ahead and reheat gently to serve.

PER 5-OUNCE SERVING: 136 CALORIES, 3.1 G PROTEIN, 10.8 G FAT, 5.6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 307.8 MG SODIUM, 0.9 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

vegetarianism crosses the threshold

When we opened our doors in 1973, meatless cuisine was seen by some as innovative and trailblazing and by others as strange and intimidating. Back then, vegetarianism had a whiff of rebellious counterculture about it. Well, it’s been a long time in coming, but times have changed and now a vegetarian lifestyle is not the least bit remarkable. In fact, many of the people who come to Moosewood come simply because they like our food, not because they are vegetarians.

It has certainly become easier than it was in the seventies to follow a vegetarian diet. Most restaurants and dining services at least accommodate this choice, if not cater to it. The increase in the number of ethnic restaurants nationwide, the rise of farmers’ markets, and a wealth of options at the supermarket all make life easier and more enjoyable for those who prefer not to eat meat either some of the time or all of the time.

Most people who call themselves vegetarians see their food choices as a humane and responsible way of eating and living because a plant-based diet is more beneficial to humans and to the environment. If cropland were used to produce grains and vegetables for human consumption instead of to feed livestock, more people could be fed. An unfortunate consequence of a meat-centered economy is the need for continual expansion of pastureland, which has led to deforestation, desertification, and water contamination.

Current nutritional research and recommendations have also contributed to the increase in vegetarianism. A diet composed of mostly fruits, vegetables, beans, and grains is high in fiber and loaded with vitamins and minerals. So there is a broad mainstream initiative to weight one’s diet in the direction of vegetables and to minimize animal foods. And we at Moosewood couldn’t be happier.

fish tostadas

When we serve this at Moosewood, the staff always enjoys putting on some catchy samba music to suit the mood. Our crisp tortilla covered with shredded lettuce and teeming with tasty morsels of broiled, spice-rubbed fish will make you want to dance, dance, dance.

Total time: 15 minutes

We developed Mango Corn Jicama Salsa expressly for this dish, but almost any fruit or tomato salsa can add the finishing touch. Other good toppings are Black Bean Mango Salsa and Joan’s Three-Tomato Salsa.

½ cup vegetable oil*

4 corn tortillas (6 inches across)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 pound catfish fillets

1 garlic clove, halved

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 cups shredded romaine, mixed baby greens, or arugula

2 cups prepared salsa

* The amount of oil needed will depend on the size of the pan.

Pour an inch of oil into a heavy skillet and heat until a small drop of water flicked into the pan spatters—but don’t let the oil begin to smoke. Ease the tortillas one at a time into the hot oil and fry both sides until pale brown and crisp, using metal tongs to flip each one over carefully. Drain on paper towels.

In a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, salt, and pepper. Rinse the fish and pat it dry. Rub each fillet with the cut side of the garlic clove and then with the spice mixture. Arrange the fillets on a broiling pan or sheet of aluminum foil and pour the lemon juice evenly over them.

Broil the fish about 3 inches from the flame for 5 to 10 minutes, until its juices run clear. The broiling time will depend on the thickness of the fillets. When the fish is cooked, remove it from the broiler and break it up into bite-sized chunks.

Assemble the tostada by layering each crisp tortilla with one fourth of the greens and fish, and top with the salsa of your choosing.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 472 CALORIES, 20.8 G PROTEIN, 33.1 G FAT, 24.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 8.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 56.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 906.3 MG SODIUM, 4.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

east-west stuffed portabellos

Preparation time: 15 to 20 minutes

Cooking time: 35 minutes

Let’s face it—we’ve fallen in love with portabello mushrooms. They’re big, easy to use, and delicious in a wide variety of dishes. So, unless you’re fungi-phobic, revel in these lavish mushrooms!

We don’t know whether Marco Polo took any mushrooms with him to Asia or brought any miso and sesame oil back to Italy, but this dish is what might have happened if he had. For a full meal, serve the portabellos on a bed of rice or on soba or udon noodles, top with steamed broccoli spears, drizzle on the sauce, and scatter scallions and mung sprouts over all. The Simple Sweet Sour Sauce can be prepared while the mushrooms bake.

1 cake firm tofu (16 ounces)

½ cup diced red bell peppers

⅓ cup diced canned water chestnuts

⅓ cup minced scallions

½ cup cooked brown rice

⅓ cup peanut butter

2 to 3 tablespoons light miso, to taste

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

4 teaspoons dark sesame oil

1 teaspoon Chinese chili paste with garlic (optional)

4 portabello mushrooms (about 5 inches in diameter)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 recipe Simple Sweet & Sour Sauce

scallions sliced on the severe diagonal

mung bean sprouts

Preheat the oven to 350°. Oil a baking pan large enough to hold the portabellos.

In a bowl, crumble the tofu into small pieces. Add the peppers, water chestnuts, scallions, rice, peanut butter, miso, ginger, 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil, and the chili paste, if using. Mix well and set aside.

Twist off the mushroom stems and gently rinse the caps to remove any dirt. Place the caps gill-side up in the oiled pan. In a small cup, stir together the remaining 3 teaspoons of sesame oil and the soy sauce. Brush the mushrooms with the mixture. Mound one quarter of the filling in each mushroom.

Bake for 35 minutes, until the mushrooms release juice and the filling is firm to the touch. While the mushrooms bake, prepare the Simple Sweet & Sour Sauce. When the mushrooms are ready, top with the sauce, scallions, and/or mung sprouts. Serve immediately.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 322 CALORIES, 16.2 G PROTEIN, 17.3 G FAT, 30.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.9 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 740.1 MG SODIUM, 4.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

japanese stuffed eggplant

Serves 3 to 6

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Baking time: 35 to 45 minutes

Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes

These delicate little eggplants make a nice first course or side dish with steamed vegetables or fish. Select tender young eggplants: they bake more quickly than larger ones, their favor is mild, and they make attractive individual portions. This is a great way to use leftover rice, but you can also cook the rice while the eggplants bake and add it to the filling just before stuffing the eggplant shells.

The simple rice stuffing can be made with or without the diced tofu. Hijiki seaweed is shaped like pieces of broken vermicelli and has a cooked texture similar to buckwheat noodles. Its color, favor, and chewiness add striking contrasts to the rice. The Ginger Sherry Sauce is sweet and pungent and can double as a dipping sauce for steamed vegetables or spring rolls.

3 small eggplants (4 to 5 inches long)

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon dry sherry

¼ cup dried hijiki seaweed

2 or 3 cups cooked brown rice *

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed

1 cup diced firm tofu (optional)**

ginger sherry sauce

¼ cup dry sherry 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon cold water

chopped toasted pecans or walnuts or toasted sesame seeds ***

chopped scallions

* 1 cup of raw brown rice will yield about 3 cups cooked (page ooo). If using tofu, 2 cups of cooked rice will be enough.

** Half of a 3-inch square cake of tofu will yield about 1 cup when diced into ½-inch cubes. If you omit the tofu, use 3 cups of rice.

*** Toast nuts or seeds in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for a few minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Oil a baking sheet (nonstick works best).

Cut the eggplants lengthwise into halves. Place them cut side down on the baking pan. Pour the ½ cup of sherry over them and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the tops are quite tender and the flesh is lightly browned.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the hijiki with hot water and set aside to soak for at least 10 minutes, until softened. Mix the rice, soy sauce, and remaining I tablespoon of sherry together in another bowl and set aside. In a skillet, heat the oil and sauté the onions and garlic for 3 minutes. Add the tofu, if using, and stir gently. Drain the softened hijiki, add it to the skillet, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the rice and sauté for another 2 minutes. Cover and set aside.

In a small pan on medium heat, bring the sherry, sesame oil, ginger, sugar, vinegar, and soy sauce to a low simmer. Thoroughly blend the cornstarch and cold water in a cup and stir it into the sauce, Continue to stir occasionally on low heat for about 10 minutes, until the sauce slightly thickens. Cover and set aside.

Meanwhile, when the eggplant halves have baked and are cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh with a spoon, leaving just enough so that the shells hold their shape. Chop the flesh, stir it into the skillet mixture, cover, and cook on medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Fill the eggplant shells with the rice stuffing and serve immediately or cover with foil and bake briefly to reheat, if needed.

Serve the stuffed eggplant topped with nuts or sesame seeds and scallions, and pass the sauce separately at the table.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 224 CALORIES, 6.7 G PROTEIN, 6.1 G EAT, 34 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 323.1 MG SODIUM, 6.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

note

We especially like this recipe with small eggplants, which are often sweeter than the larger ones. But if small eggplants are unavailable, this recipe also works using 2 medium-large eggplants that will serve 4 as a main dish. Adjust the cooking time for baking the eggplants—larger specimens will take longer to become completely tender.

moussaka-style stuffed eggplant

Final baking time: 30 minutes

Greece stretches south into the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas, tantalizingly close to North Africa and just a brief cruise eastward from Italy and France. Inspired by a classic Greek casserole, this dish is a lively blend of these nearby culinary influences.

The spices are typical of the Near East and North Africa. The cheeses are Italian. The vegetables are favorites throughout the region. The custard of whipped egg whites in the topping hints at a French soufflé.

Lovers of feta cheese should feel free to add a bit to the topping or crumble it with the Parmesan to sprinkle on top. Serve the eggplants on a bed of orzo, couscous, or conchigliette and garnish with strips of roasted red pepper or sprigs of fresh dill.

2 eggplants (1 to 1¼ pounds each)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onions

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

½ teaspoon ground cloves

¾ teaspoon ground cumin

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

pinch of cayenne

l¾ cups canned tomatoes with juice, chopped (14.5-ounce can)

1 cup chopped green bell peppers

1 cup chopped mushrooms

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup bread crumbs *

1¾ cups ricotta cheese (15 ounces)

2 egg whites

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

* Pulverize stale or lightly toasted whole wheat, sourdough, or French bread in a blender or food processor.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Lightly oil a baking tray.

Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Score the flesh of each half with a paring knife, being careful not to pierce the skin. Use a spoon to scoop out the flesh and leave about a ½-inch-thick shell. Reserve the flesh to use in the filling.

Brush the eggplant shells with 1 tablespoon of the oil and sprinkle them lightly with salt. Place face up on the prepared baking tray and bake for about 20 minutes, until very tender.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a nonreactive saucepan. Sauté the onions until translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, cloves, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne and continue to sauté for about 1 minute. Cut the reserved eggplant flesh into small cubes and add them. Sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes, bell peppers, and mushrooms. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and mix in the salt, black pepper, bread crumbs, and ¾ cup of the ricotta cheese. Set the filling aside.

When the eggplant shells are done, remove them from the oven and reduce the temperature to 350°. In a mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until they are stiff and fold them into the remaining cup of ricotta cheese.

Fill each shell with 1¼ cups of the vegetable filling. Evenly cover with the ricotta custard and then the grated cheese. Return the baking tray of stuffed eggplant to the oven and bake for about 30 minutes, until puffed and lightly golden on top.

PER 20-OUNCE SERVING: 597 CALORIES, 35 G PROTEIN, 31.6 G FAT, 46.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 13.6 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 59.5 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1, 691.3 MG SODIUM, 8.4 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

greek lasagna

Serves 8

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Baking time: 45 to 50 minutes

Sitting time: 10 to 15 minutes

Separated only by the Ionian Sea, Greece and Italy share so much history that it’s curious how distinct their cuisines have remained. We thought it would be fun to create a dish that combined the two culinary styles. Starting with the classic Italian casserole, lasagna, we switched the cheeses and gave the sauce a Greek touch. The spirited flavors of this fusion played on our palates like a mandolin and bouzouki duet.

We only partially cook the eggplant before layering it into the casserole. This preserves its texture in the finished dish, since it continues to cook as the lasagna bakes. If you’re not familiar with our uncooked noodle trick, this is it: don’t boil the noodles. As long as they’re surrounded by sauce, raw noodles will cook just fine in the oven—so don’t bother with all that boiling water!

tomato sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped onions

4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 teaspoons dried marjoram

5 cups undrained canned whole tomatoes (three 14.5-ounce cans)

⅓ cup chopped kalamata olives

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1 large eggplant, cut into ¾-inch-thick rounds (1½ pounds)

olive oil for brushing

3 eggs, beaten

2 cups cottage cheese

1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

3 cups grated feta cheese

½ pound uncooked lasagna noodles (12 noodles)

In a saucepan, warm the olive oil briefly on medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions have begun to release juices. Stir in the garlic and marjoram and sauté until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, cover, and bring to a simmer; then reduce the heat to medium-low—just enough to maintain a simmer. Add the olives, salt, and pepper. For best flavor, add the dill just before assembling the lasagna.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Lightly oil a large baking sheet.

While the sauce gently simmers, lay the eggplant rounds on the baking sheet, brush them with olive oil, and bake uncovered for about 15 minutes. Remove the eggplant from the oven and reduce the heat to 350°.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the eggs, cottage cheese, fennel, and 1 cup of the feta and set aside.

Lightly oil a 7½ × 10 × 3-inch casserole dish. Evenly spread 2 cups of the tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish. Top with a layer of noodles and cover with 1 cup of the sauce. Next layer all of the eggplant rounds, 1 cup of the feta cheese, a second layer of noodles, and another cup of the sauce. Finish with all of the egg and cottage cheese mixture, a third layer of noodles, the rest of the sauce, and the remaining cup of feta.

Cover the lasagna with aluminum foil and bake for 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, uncover the lasagna, and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

PER 15-OUNCE SERVING: 462 CALORIES, 22.9 G PROTEIN, 24.5 G FAT, 39.6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 10.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 172.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1, 827.3 MG SODIUM, 3.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pasta with sunday ragù

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

When Moosewood’s Winnie Stein was growing up, she and her sisters were served a Jewish Italian take on this sauce, courtesy of her Aunt Martha. Martha had married an Italian—a scandalous event for the family in those days—and taught Winnie’s mother to make this “gravy,” as they called it in South Philly. (Of course, healthful soy crumbles had not yet been invented then).

When the girls arrived home from school and smelled that a “gravy” was simmering, they’d rush into the kitchen for a taste. Winnie’s mom would dip pieces of bread in the sauce for each of them, and although they always burned their tongues they immediately begged for more.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup diced onions

½ cup peeled and diced carrots

1 cup diced celery

3 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

2 cups chopped mushrooms (cremini are nice)

2 teaspoons freshly ground fennel seeds

2 teaspoons fresh oregano (1 teaspoon dried)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage ¼ teaspoon dried)

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary (½ teaspoon dried)

1 bay leaf

12 ounces soy and/or wheat gluten crumbles *

½ cup dry red wine

3 cups crushed tomatoes with juice (28-ounce can)

1 cup vegetable stock or water

½ teaspoon ground black pepper salt to taste

1 pound penne or fettuccine

freshly grated Parmesan cheese

* We like Smart Ground brand soy and wheat gluten crumbles. If you wish, use less to taste.

Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until wilted. Stir in the salt, fennel, oregano, sage, rosemary, bay leaf, and soy or wheat gluten crumbles. Sauté for 5 minutes more. Add the wine, tomatoes, and stock or water, cover, and gently simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Add the black pepper and more salt to taste. Remove and discard the bay leaf.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. About 10 minutes before the sauce is done, cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente. For an Italian touch, stir ½ cup of the pasta cooking water into the tomato sauce. Then drain the pasta and transfer it to a serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss well.

Top with the grated cheese and serve right away.

PER 16-OUNCE SERVING: 505 CALORIES, 25.2 G PROTEIN, 9.1 G FAT, 78.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 0 MG CHOLESTEROL, 587.8 MG SODIUM, 6.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pine nut pasta cavalfiore

Our customers love this traditional Sicilian pasta with ingredients that reflect Arab influence: saffron, currants, and nuts. Our vegetarian version uses sun-dried tomatoes to mimic the salty pungency of the usual anchovies in the dish.

Total time: 1¼ hours

Sicilian cauliflower is green. If your market has broccoflower, a cauliflower relative, try it. For a traditional topping and authentic flair, replace the grated cheese with 1 cup of toasted fine bread crumbs that have been sautéed until crisp in 3 tablespoons of olive oil.

⅓ cup currants

⅓ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes (not packed in oil)

¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron

¾ cup boiling water

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped onions

3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

8 cups bite-sized cauliflower florets

¼ cup toasted pine nuts *

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

12 ounces orecchiette, penne, or other chunky pasta

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

* Toast pine nuts in a single layer on an unoiled baking tray at 350° for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown.

Place the currants, sun-dried tomatoes, and saffron in a small heat-proof bowl, cover with the boiling water, and set aside. Bring a large, covered pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

Meanwhile, warm the oil in a Dutch oven or similar large pot. Add the onions, garlic, and red pepper flakes and sauté on medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until the onions are softened and lightly browned.

Add the cauliflower and salt and sauté for a couple of minutes. Stir in the currants, sun-dried tomatoes, saffron, and their soaking liquid. Cover and continue to cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is just tender. Remove from the heat. Add the pine nuts, lemon juice, and parsley, and cover to keep warm.

When the pasta water boils, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain it and mix with the sautéed cauliflower to distribute the ingredients evenly.

Serve at once, topped with the grated cheese.

PER 14.5-OUNCE SERVING: 513 CALORIES, 23.3 G PROTEIN, 18.8 G FAT, 66.4 G CARBOHYDRATES, 5.7 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 17.8 MG CHOLESTEROL, 819.4 MG SODIUM, 7.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

sicilian eggplant pasta

Total time: 45 to 60 minutes

Our Moosewood version of a rustic Southern Italian specialty pairs the crunchiness of fried eggplant with smooth fresh mozzarella that melts into the hot pasta. The eggplant’s crisp egg coating prevents it from absorbing excess oil when frying.

Served with Tossed Green Salad Vinaigrette, this pasta will quickly become one of your favorite meals.

6 cups peeled and cubed eggplant (1-inch pieces)

3 eggs, beaten

½ cup olive oil

1 pound chunky pasta, such as shells

2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

4 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste

12 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch cubes

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

6 fresh basil leaves, chopped into bite-sized pieces

1 teaspoon salt

grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, toss together the eggplant and beaten eggs in a large shallow bowl. Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a large skillet on high heat until the oil is hot, but not smoking. Reduce to medium heat and fry the eggplant in two batches. Add 2 more tablespoons of oil to the skillet before cooking the second batch. Fry each batch about 8 minutes, turning to brown lightly on all sides. Remove the eggplant with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and set aside.

Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente. While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan and add the cherry tomatoes, garlic, parsley, and red pepper flakes. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring gently, and set aside.

When the pasta is al dente, drain it, and transfer to a large, warmed serving bowl. Add the eggplant, tomato mixture, fresh mozzarella cubes, grated cheese, basil, and salt.

Serve immediately, passing additional grated cheese at the table.

PER 18-OUNCE SERVING: 778 CALORIES, 31.8 G PROTEIN, 40 G FAT, 73.7 G CARBOHYDRATES, 13.5 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 185.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 877.5 MG SODIUM, 6.7 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

batter-fried vegetables & fish

Batter preparation time: 10 minutes

Batter sitting time: 1 to 2 hours

Oil heating time: 20 minutes

Frying time (with two deep-fryers): 20 to 25 minutes

Whether it’s called tempura, Southern-fried, or fritto misto, batter-fried foods are unsurpassed for their ability to seal in juices and flavors. This simple batter uses carbonated water to make a crisp, light coating with a delicate texture. Using two deep-fryers will save time and ensure that the first fried vegetables are still crunchy and hot by the time the last ones are ready.

The batter works nicely after resting for an hour but is best after 2 hours. Half florets of broccoli and cauliflower and thinly sliced vegetables can be batter-fried raw; thicker slices—½ inch—should be blanched first in boiling water for 2 minutes and drained well. Choose a thickness and cut the vegetables uniformly. Be sure they’re at room temperature and relatively dry before frying.

batter

1⅓ cups unbleached white flour *

½ cup cornstarch 1½ to 2 teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 cups seltzer or plain carbonated spring water

allow about ¼ pound per person

peeled and deveined medium whole shrimp

whole bay scallops

fish fillets, in bite-sized pieces**

select 3 vegetables (6 cups prepared)

asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces

bell peppers, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces

broccoli, cut into florets

carrots, peeled and diagonally sliced

cauliflower, cut into florets

eggplant, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and sliced into wedges

fennel bulb, sliced

green tomatoes, sliced

okra, whole small pods

onions, cut into rings and separated

portabello caps, sliced

sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced

white mushrooms, whole or halved

zucchini, cut into rounds

oil for deep-frying

salt and ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Ginger Sherry Sauce, optional

* If using fish and seafood, you will need additional flour for dredging.

** We recommend catfish or tilapia.

To make the batter, combine the flour, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and slowly whisk in the seltzer until smooth. Be careful not to overbeat. Set aside for 1 to 2 hours. While the batter develops, prepare the fish and/or vegetables.

When you are ready to fry, heat oil in a deep-fryer, large wok, or cast-iron Dutch oven or kettle to about 365°. The oil should be deep enough so that the batter-coated pieces can float at the top without touching the bottom of the pan.

The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream. If it’s too thick, add a little seltzer. Dip the vegetables into the batter with tongs or chopsticks and allow the excess to drip back into the bowl. Fry in the hot oil until the coating is crisp and the vegetables tender, 3 to 6 minutes. Dredge the seafood or fish in flour, shake off the excess, dip in the batter, and fry for about 6 minutes, until crisp. Drain everything briefly on paper towels.

Salt the vegetables and sprinkle black pepper and fresh lemon juice on the fish, or offer Ginger Sherry Sauce alongside. Serve immediately.

PER 11-OUNCE SERVING: 268 CALORIES, 25.7 G PROTEIN, 1.7 G FAT, 36.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 194.6 MG CHOLESTEROL, 845.6 MG SODIUM, 2.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

variations

These rubs will coat 1¼ pounds offish or seafood. Combine all of the ingredients and rub them onto the fish or seafood. Chill for 1 hour and then drain off any accumulated liquid. Next dredge in four, dip in batter, and fry as above.

mediterranean-style rub

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried basil

2 garlic cloves, pressed or minced

¼ teaspoon salt

pinch of ground black pepper

southern-style rub

1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 garlic cloves, pressed or minced

cioppino

Serves 6

Total time: 50 to GO minutes

Cioppino is a lavish Italian American-style seafood stew with a peppery herbed tomato sauce. It’s famous as a specialty dish of the city of San Francisco. Many versions of this dish have developed, using all kinds of seafood, depending upon whatever is available and freshest.

Moosewood cook Michael Blodgett, who trained in New Orleans where the stew is served over pasta, created Moosewood’s version. The more usual way to eat cioppino is with a big crusty hunk of garlic bread either on the side or sometimes in the bottom of the bowl.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onions

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

1 cup chopped green bell peppers

1½ cups canned tomatoes with juice, chopped (14.5-ounce can)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup dry red wine

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

2 bay leaves

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

2 cups vegetable stock or water

1 cup dry white wine

½ pound fresh mussels, rinsed and cleaned *

½ pound fresh clams, rinsed and cleaned*

½ pound large peeled and deveined shrimp, rinsed and drained

1 pound sea scallops, rinsed and drained

1 to 1½ pounds linguine

chopped fresh parsley

lemon wedges

* Discard any mussels or clams that are open or broken, rinse the rest with cold water, and scrub. Remove and discard the stringy “beard” of the mussels. Place the mussels and clams in a bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate until ready to use. Rinse and drain again before cooking.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, nonreactive, heavy-bottomed soup pot. Add the onions and sauté on medium heat until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and bell peppers and continue to sauté until the bell peppers soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, red wine, thyme, oregano, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, basil, salt, and 1 cup of the vegetable stock or water. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and simmer while preparing the other ingredients.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

In a 2-quart saucepan, bring the remaining cup of stock or water and the white wine to a boil. Add the mussels and clams. Cook for 2 to 5 minutes, until the shells open. Remove them with tongs and set aside. Discard any that do not open.

Remove the bay leaves from the simmering tomato sauce and discard. Add the shrimp and scallops and cook until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops are opaque, about 5 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. Drain and toss with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil.

Serve the pasta immediately in warmed pasta bowls. Arrange the mussels and clams around the edges of each bowl, ladle the sauce over each serving, and decorate with parsley and lemon wedges.

PER 19-OUNCE SERVING: 495 CALORIES, 29.6 G PROTEIN, 9.2 G FAT, 61.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.4 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 157.2 MG CHOLESTEROL, 781.1 MG SODIUM, 3.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

elegant oven-poached fish

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Baking time: 20 to 30 minutes

Low-fat, delicious, fast but impressive, this is an excellent supper dish. The fish stays incredibly moist with this oven-poaching method and the sweet leeks and briny capers add flair. The flavors remain distinct—you can taste each one, yet somehow, they also blend. The dry white wine ties it all together.

Our presentation is handsome enough for quick company fare. And if there are leftovers, well, it’s even better the next day. Reheat it or serve it cold on a bed of fresh salad greens and topped with a few fresh herbs.

1½ pounds thick fish fillets, such as sea bass, cod, lake trout, or salmon

2 to 3 leeks, sliced and rinsed well *

1 tomato, coarsely chopped

¾ cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons capers

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme (½ teaspoon dried)

salt and ground black pepper to taste

cooked brown rice or orzo

* For this dish, prepare about z cups of sliced leeks, using only the tender white bulbs.

Preheat the oven to 425°.

Rinse the fish fillets, pat dry, and set aside.

Spread the sliced leeks on the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the fish in a single layer. Scatter the tomatoes over the leeks and pour on the wine. Arrange the fish on top and sprinkle with the capers, thyme, salt, and pepper.

Cover and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. The fish is done when the thickest part is easily pierced with a knife.

Serve each portion on a bed of rice or orzo and spoon some of the pan juices and vegetables over each serving.

PER 6.5-OUNCE SERVING: 152 CALORIES, 24.1 G PROTEIN, 1.1 G FAT, 6 G CARBOHYDRATES, 0.2 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 56.1 MG CHOLESTEROL, 157.1 MG SODIUM, 0.8 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

escabeche

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Marinating time: 3 to 48 hours

This pickled fish, also called escovitch, is popular in Latin America, the Caribbean, and in the Mediterranean, especially Spain. Escabeche is usually served chilled after marinating for a few days, but sometimes we just can’t wait and eat it warm over rice. The longer it marinates, the more tangy and full-flavored it becomes.

We suggest using fish such as sea bass, ocean perch, catfish, mackerel, or snapper. Or combine fish and shrimp in equal amounts.

Serve chilled escabeche as a main dish or as an appetizer with crackers or crisp bread.

gingered salmon-in-a-packet

½ cup fresh lime juice *

1 pound fish fillets

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, peeled, halved, and sliced ¼-inch thick

1 red or green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 Scotch bonnet or other fresh chile, seeded and minced

2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 to 2 tablespoons capers

1 cup peeled and sliced carrots (¼-inch-thick rounds)

2 cups bite-sized cauliflower florets

* Distilled vinegar or white wine vinegar can be used for a somewhat sharper flavor.

Dissolve the salt in the lime juice and set aside. Cut the fish into 1½-inch pieces. In a large skillet on medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil until hot but not smoking. Cook the fish for 2 to 4 minutes depending on thickness. Turn with a spatula and cook until just beginning to flake, 2 to 4 more minutes. Transfer the fish to a flat-bottomed large bowl.

Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to the skillet. Sauté the onions, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes, until they begin to soften. Stir in the bell peppers, chiles, and garlic and sauté for 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme and capers and sauté for another 2 or 3 minutes, until the bell peppers are tender yet firm. Spoon the vegetables onto the fish in the bowl.

In a nonreactive pot with a lid, warm the remaining tablespoon of oil. Sauté the carrots for about 3 minutes. Add the cauliflower and sauté, stirring frequently, for 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the seasoned lime juice, lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. When the vegetables are tender, add them to the bowl. Four the remaining lime juice over all, cover, and refrigerate. Marinate in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally, for at least 3 hours and up to 48 hours.

PER 7-OUNCE SERVING: 214 CALORIES, 17 G PROTEIN, 12.7 G FAT, 8.9 G CARBOHYDRATES, 1.8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 37.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 305.1 MG SODIUM, 2.3 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

fish-in-a-packet

A packet of fresh fish and vegetables steamed in savory or spicy flavors is like a gift. Each individually wrapped “present” releases a burst of aromatic steam when opened. The flavors mingle sweet with spicy, hot with salty, briny with piquant. Nothing escapes until the final moment of opening the foil. Inside, the fish is tender and succulent, the vegetables are perfectly cooked, and the sauce has bathed every ingredient.

When cooking in a packet, potatoes take too long and asparagus and snow peas lose their bright color. Carrots, onions, zucchini, yellow squash, and bell peppers are better choices.

Once you prepare all of the ingredients, each packet can be assembled and folded easily and quickly. In general, we don’t recommend that you prepare the packets ahead of time because some ingredients may react with the aluminum foil. Serve immediately to avoid overcooking.

Serve this Chinese-style fish-in-a-packet with long-grain brown rice.

Baking time: 20 minutes

4 six-ounce salmon fillets

¼ cup vegetable oil

8 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

¼ cup grated fresh ginger root

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup rice vinegar or lemon juice

½ teaspoon dark sesame oil

2 cups peeled and sliced carrots

1 cup sliced water chestnuts

2 cups red bell pepper slices

¼ cup chopped scallions

Preheat the oven to 450°. For each fillet, fold a 12 × 24-inch sheet of aluminum foil in half to make a double-thick 12-inch square; set aside.

Rinse the fish, pat dry, and set aside. Heat the oil in a small saucepan. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté on low heat for about 1 minute. Stir in the soy sauce, rice vinegar or lemon juice, and sesame oil and set the sauce aside.

Place one fourth of the carrots and water chestnuts in the center of each foil square. Drizzle on a bit of the sauce and place a fish fillet on top. Arrange the red peppers on top of each and pour the remaining sauce evenly over all. Fold each square into an airtight packet, crimp the edges shut, and place on an unoiled baking sheet.

Bake for 20 minutes, until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Avoid the steam when opening the packets. Serve topped with the scallions.

PER 13.5-OUNCE SERVING: 499 CALORIES, 32.3 G PROTEIN, 31.5 G FAT, 21.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 7.1 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 81.4 MG CHOLESTEROL, 924.5 MG SODIUM, 5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

fish with artichokes & capers

Preparation time: 35 minutes

Bakking time: 20 minutes

Fast enough for an easy work-night supper but elegant enough for a company dinner, this fragrant dish is seasoned with lemon, herbs, and piquant capers.

Serve with Perfect Tomato Salad with Feta Buttermilk Dressing for a simple meal. For a dinner party, start with David’s Dilled Havarti Spread and crudités, serve the fish on Wild Rice Pilaf, and finish with Fruit Skewers.

4 six-ounce white fish fillets, such as tilapia, haddock, or scrod (¼-inch thick)

2 cups thinly sliced onions

4 cups thinly sliced mushrooms

2 cups sliced artichoke hearts

4 teaspoons capers, drained

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup fresh lemon juice

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

¼ cup chopped fresh thyme (4 teaspoons dried)

½ teaspoon salt

ground black pepper to taste

4 small sprigs of fresh sage (optional)

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley (optional)

Preheat the oven to 450°. For each fillet, fold a 12 × 24-inch sheet of aluminum foil in half to make a double-thick 12-inch square, and set aside.

Rinse the fish, pat dry, and set aside. Place one fourth of the onions and mushrooms in the center of each square of aluminum foil. Lay the fish fillets on top of the vegetables and top with the artichoke hearts.

In a small bowl, combine the capers, olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, thyme, salt, pepper, and the sage, if using. Pour this sauce evenly over each fish fillet. Fold each foil square into an airtight packet, crimp the edges shut, and place on an unoiled baking sheet with sides to catch any drips.

Bake for 20 minutes, until the fish flakes easily with a fork and is cooked throughout. Use care when opening the packets because steam will be released. Remove the sprigs of sage, if used, and garnish the fish with parsley, if desired.

PER 14.5-OUNCE SERVING: 384 CALORIES, 38.2 G PROTEIN, 16.3 G FAT, 25.1 G CARBOHYDRATES, 2.3 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 44.9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 1, 763 MG SODIUM, 8.5 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

thai-style scallops-in-a-packet

Preparation time: 35 minutes

Baking time: 20 minutes

This seafood packet is hot and citrusy and redolent with cilantro, basil, and mint. Use Thai basil if you have it. Although we like this dish best when made with scallops, it’s quite delectable using fillets of scrod or tilapia as well. Four 6-ounce fillets will do just fine.

Serve the scallops on a bed of rice—jasmine rice is nice—alongside your favorite Thai side dishes. As an opener, try creamy but light Thai Coconut Soup, which has a lovely lemongrass stock for its base.

¼ cup vegetable oil

½ cup fresh lime juice

1 to 2 teaspoons Chinese chili paste

3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

½ teaspoon salt

2 cups thinly sliced zucchini or yellow squash

2 cups peeled and thinly sliced carrots

1½ pounds sea scallops

2 cups thinly sliced red bell peppers

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

1 cup mung bean sprouts (optional)

Preheat the oven to 450°. For each fillet, fold a 12 × 24-inch sheet of aluminum foil in half to make a double-thick 12-inch square, and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix together the oil, lime juice, Chinese chili paste, brown sugar, and salt. Set the sauce aside.

Place one fourth of the zucchini and carrots in the center of each square of aluminum foil and drizzle on a little of the sauce. Lay one fourth of the scallops on each serving of vegetables, top with the bell peppers, and pour the remaining sauce evenly over all. Mix together the cilantro, basil, and mint; sprinkle half of it over all of the scallops and reserve the rest. Fold each foil square into an airtight packet, crimp the edges shut, and place on an unoiled baking sheet with sides to catch any drips.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until the scallops are opaque and tender. Use care when opening the packets because steam will be released. Serve dusted with the rest of the fresh herbs and, if you wish, scatter some mung sprouts on top.

PER 12-OUNCE SERVING: 330 CALORIES, 22 G PROTEIN, 16 G FAT, 29.8 G CARBOHYDRATES, 3.8 G SATURATED FATTY ACIDS, 45.1 MG CHOLESTEROL, 431.1 MG SODIUM, 47 G TOTAL DIETARY FIBER

pecan-crusted fish