Continued, Food52 Any Night Grilling

Halloumi is a brined cheese from Cyprus that’s traditionally made from sheep’s or goat’s milk. Its dense texture and low moisture content make it the perfect candidate for grilling or panfrying. The process is quick and fun to watch: As the surface of the cheese browns, the slices yield and soften slightly but retain their shape. Halloumi’s salty, tangy flavor melds beautifully with the bright sweetness of citrus like blood oranges (another Cypriot staple). Served atop peppery greens with a scattering of olives and crunchy pistachios, this combination makes a casual and striking meal to serve alongside grilled bread and fresh figs. If you have leftover Smoked Beets (this page) or roasted beets, they’d be a happy addition to this salad.

1. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. If you’re using a grill basket, allow it to heat for 10 minutes before cooking.

2. Use a knife to trim the peels and pith from the oranges, and then slice the oranges into ½-inch (1.3cm) rounds. Squeeze the juice from the orange trimmings into a bowl and add the olive oil, vinegar, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper and whisk to blend.

3. Oil the grates or grill basket and brush the halloumi and orange slices with olive oil. Grill over direct heat until grill marks appear, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Be sure to use a spatula or tongs to loosen the halloumi from the grates so you retain the flavorful browned crust.

4. Place the arugula on a serving platter and top with the warm halloumi and orange slices. Scatter with olives and pistachios, and drizzle with the herb vinaigrette.

This recipe liberates paneer from its traditional role in Indian cuisine as partner to spinach in saag paneer via skewers of fresh vegetables and bright, spicy herb-chile marinade. Paneer is a mild, fresh cheese with an appealing tofu-like texture (feel free to use that instead). Slicing the cheese and vegetables into a similar size will help them cook evenly.

1. Puree the cilantro, serrano, garlic, coriander, and olive oil in a blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and give it another whirl. Place the paneer in a bowl and pour half of the cilantro oil over the cheese; stir to combine and then marinate in the fridge for 1 hour or up to 1 day. Set the remaining oil aside (or refrigerate it if cooking the following day).

2. Thirty minutes before cooking, soak 8 to 10 wooden skewers in water. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. Skewer the cheese, eggplant, zucchini, and cherry tomatoes as you please and grill over direct heat until the vegetables char and edges of the paneer become golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes on both sides, brushing with additional marinade from the cheese bowl. Season the kebabs with a sprinkle of salt. Brush each round of naan with olive oil and grill until charred and crisp, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side.

Flavored oils made by blending oil with fresh herbs, aromatics (garlic, ginger, chile peppers), and/or spices (harissa, curry powder) provide an easy way to make grilled foods even more enticing. You’ll want to use flavored oils to marinate milder, denser proteins—like cheese, firm tofu, chicken breasts, and fish fillets—before grilling so they have time (even 30 minutes) to infuse the ingredient. Brushing on additional oil during or after grilling maximizes flavor even more; if you’re grilling meat or fish, reserve a portion of the oil to brush on after cooking so there’s no risk of cross contamination. By contrast, vegetables benefit from a fragrant oil or dressing after grilling because the high heat creates a crust that helps retain their texture and distinct taste.

Queso Panela Tacos with Zucchini & Sweet Corn

Serves 4

Panela is semisoft Mexican cheese that’s often served crumbed over salads. But don’t limit its subtly sweet, milky goodness to a garnish—crispy, gooey grilled panela is the stuff that taco dreams are made of. After grilling, you can nestle the cheese slices in a pool of Tomatillo Salsa (this page) that’s easy to assemble beforehand (or a day in advance), or serve them simply in warm corn tortillas with a mixture of charred zucchini, sweet corn, sautéed kale, spinach, or grilled mushrooms. You can also serve grilled panela “fajita style” with a sizzling pile of grilled peppers and onions.

2 zucchini, yellow crookneck squash, or Mexican squash (called calabacita or tatuma), halved lengthwise

2 ears corn, shucked

1 pound (450g) panela or asadero cheese, cut into ½-inch (1.3cm) slices

Olive oil

3 tablespoons freshly chopped cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crumbled

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, plus more as desired

Kosher salt

8 to 10 corn tortillas

Tomatillo Salsa (optional; this page)

2. Grill the squash and corn over direct heat, turning as needed for even cooking, until lightly charred on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Set aside to cool.

3. Brush the panela slices with olive oil and grill until charred and browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Dice the grilled squash and transfer to a bowl. Trim the corn kernels from cob and add to the squash, along with the cilantro, oregano, lime juice, and a drizzle of olive oil. Stir to combine and season with salt and more lime juice as desired.

4. Grill the tortillas over direct heat until lightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. Keep warm in a basket or wrapped in a kitchen towel.

5. Spread a layer of the salsa on the bottom of a shallow dish or plate. Nestle slices of grilled panela in the salsa. Serve immediately with the squash-corn mixture and charred tortillas on the side.

State Park Potatoes (aka how to prepare a swoon-worthy gratin in the woods)

Serves 4

Is there a better package to open than one containing tender potatoes, fragrant browned shallots, and creamy goat cheese? Not in my book. We’ve made these potato and cheese packets at home as a satisfying main course and on camping trips to serve with steak. Speck (smoked cured pork) isn’t essential, but it adds incredible flavor and bastes the potatoes as they cook.

2 pounds (900g) Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled and sliced ¼ inch (6mm) thick

2 shallots, thinly sliced

½ cup (120ml) olive oil

2 teaspoons freshly chopped thyme leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces (115g) fresh goat cheese

4 to 8 thin slices speck (optional)

1. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

2. In a large bowl, generously season the potatoes, shallots, olive oil, and thyme with salt and pepper and toss to combine. Cut 4 sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil into 14 by 8–inch (36 by 20cm) rectangles. Place each rectangle shiny side down. Scoop one-quarter of the potato mixture in the middle. Top with a quarter of the goat cheese and speck. Fold the top half of the foil over the potatoes and bring the top and bottom edges together. Fold the edges over several times to make a tight seal. Prepare the remaining packages the same way.

3. When you’re ready to cook, place the foil packages on the grate over indirect heat. Close the grill (venting appropriately for indirect cooking) and cook, rotating every now and then for even cooking, until the packets are puffed and the potatoes are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. To test for doneness, open 1 small corner of a packet (using caution as escaping steam will be very hot) and use a paring knife to pierce (and/or taste) a portion of a slice. Serve warm.

Grilling in Advance

Aluminum foil packets of potatoes (and other vegetables) hold beautifully: Once they’re done, you can keep packets warm in a cooler heat zone while you cook something else (say a steak). (Or if your grill has an upper-tier rack, place the packets there.) Other dishes that hold well in these cooler zones—think about them like your low oven—include chicken thighs, corn on the cob, grilled onions and peppers, and grilled pita, naan, or other breads. If you need to hold the breads for more than 15 minutes, just wrap them in foil so they don’t dry out.

Grilled Cheese & Mushrooms

Makes 2 sandwiches

The trick to maximizing the savory flavor of grilled mushrooms is basting them with butter—spiked with fish sauce—as they cook. To find the right cheese for the revved-up umami, John Antonelli, owner of Antonelli’s Cheese Shop in Austin, encouraged me to embrace “fungus with fungus” via Gorgonzola dolce or Smokey Blue from Rogue Creamery in Oregon (it’s smoked over hazelnut shells). The result is a decidedly grown-up grilled cheese. If you prefer pure gooey goodness, use raclette—its savory note is a natural ally for the mushrooms. Or to ramp up the funky flavor even more, toss the grilled mushrooms with a pinch of bonito flakes. If you want to temper the deep, earthy flavors in this sandwich, add a couple of thin slices of ripe tomato, Pickled Banana Peppers (this page), or arugula.

While you should never use your spatula to “press” burgers, steaks, or other meats while they grill (you’ll be pressing out their delicious juices and end up with a dry piece of meat), pressing—not mashing but melding—this sandwich as you would for a pan bagnat after grilling is an important step that fuses flavors for a more satisfying experience. A hearty-crusted bread like miche or ciabatta can easily hold up to the weight of a skillet.

8 ounces (225g) wild mushrooms (such as shiitake, oyster, hen-of-the-woods, or matsutake), stemmed

8 ounces (225g) cremini mushrooms, stemmed

Olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (110g) unsalted butter

2 teaspoons fish sauce (preferably Red Boat)

Two ½-inch-thick (1.3cm) slices of miche or another artisan bread, cut from the widest part of the round

4 ounces (115g) Gorgonzola dolce, other blue cheese, or raclette

1. In a bowl, drizzle the mushrooms with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.

2. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. If you’re using a grill basket, allow it to heat for 10 minutes before cooking.

3. Melt the butter in a small cast-iron skillet on the grill over direct heat, then stir in the fish sauce. Move to a cooler zone to keep warm.

4. Grill the mushrooms, gill side up, over direct heat for 20 to 25 minutes, basting every now and then with the fish sauce butter and turning as needed for even cooking. If using a grill basket, move the basket off the heat as necessary to avoid flare-ups and, depending on your fire, rotate the basket 1 quarter turn every 5 minutes for even cooking. Remove from the heat.

5. Cut each slice of bread in half crosswise. Slice the mushrooms as desired for easy eating (I leave shiitakes whole) and slice the cheese to fit the bread. Brush 1 side of each bread slice with the fish sauce butter. Divide mushrooms and cheese between 2 of the slices and then top with another slice, butter side up. Use a long-handled spatula to press the sandwich together. Grill until the bread is charred and the cheese has melted, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer sandwiches to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, cover with aluminum foil, and weight them down with a cast-iron skillet. Allow the sandwiches to meld for about 5 minutes, and then slice into desired size.

Why Bother Preheating a Grill Basket?

Preheating a grill basket is just like preheating a cast-iron skillet before cooking. When the metal basket is hot, foods are less likely to stick, and because the ingredients are lightly coated in olive oil, they benefit from that initial sizzle of a sear the minute they hit the grill.

Broccoli Spears with Crispy Cheese Crust

Serves 2 to 4

Like roasting, a grill enhances the vegetable’s natural sweetness and creates salty, crunchy browned bits that add an entirely different layer of appeal. When charred by the heat of a grill, brassicas like broccoli—particularly big, meaty stalks—offer a satisfying range of flavors and textures that warrant top billing. I prefer to grill large spears of broccoli because they’re easier to wrangle and fun to eat with a knife and fork, but you can use broccolini or large florets of Romanesco broccoli instead. After they’re branded with an initial char, the spears are transferred to a cast-iron skillet, covered with a blanket of grated Parmesan (or another aged cheese) and finished in a closed grill. The ambient heat melts the cheese and creates a crispy crust reminiscent of frico, lacy Parmesan crackers. Salsa Verde (this page), Pickled Mustard Seeds (this page), or Sumac Yogurt Sauce (this page) would be delicious additions to the plate.

2 heads broccoli

Olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes or chopped dried arbol chile (stemmed and seeded), plus more as desired for heat

1½ cups (150g) coarsely grated Parmesan, Asiago, aged cheddar, or Gouda

Lemon wedges

1. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. Preheat a cast-iron skillet for 10 minutes before cooking.

2. While the grill heats, use a paring knife to trim the bottom inch or two from the stems and peel the stems. Slice the broccoli heads into long spears (the florets should be attached to a long portion of stem). Place any florets that break loose in a mixing bowl. Drizzle the spears with olive oil and season with salt, black pepper, and chile.

3. Grill the broccoli over direct heat until evenly charred, 4 to 6 minutes per side, moving to indirect heat as needed to prevent the stalks from burning. Grill any small broccoli florets that break loose in the preheated cast-iron skillet, tossing often, until browned and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Add the spears to the cast-iron skillet and place on the grill grate over direct heat. Sprinkle with the cheese, close the grill, and cook until the cheese is melted and the broccoli is crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges.

Provoleta with Dandelion & Toasted Almonds

Serves 2 to 4

In Argentina, grilled provolone cheese—or provoleta—is a tease, typically eaten on bread before an asado, a belt-busting marathon of grilled meats. But when served with bitter greens (a nice way to balance richness), a bright citrus vinaigrette, and crunchy toasted nuts, grilled provolone becomes a decadent “salad” that delivers a heavy dose of comfort. Argentine provolone is typically served in rounds, but it’s difficult to source here. You’ll get great results with aged provolone from Wisconsin or another semihard cheese like asadero or Asiago (typically sold in wedges or half-rounds). Unlike baked feta, aged provolone doesn’t become custardy when cooked; it takes on a fantastic chewy, yielding texture that’s fun to slather on grilled bread.

1 shallot, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

8 ounces (225g) aged provolone (round, half-round, or wedge) or another semihard cheese (such as asadero or Asiago)

¼ cup (60ml) plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons freshly chopped oregano

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons blood orange juice or regular orange juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch dandelion greens (or watercress or arugula), stems and any thick ribs trimmed

⅓ cup (45g) coarsely chopped toasted almonds or hazelnuts

Grilled bread (see this page)

2. Combine the shallot and vinegar in a bowl. In another bowl, drizzle the cheese with olive oil and sprinkle with the oregano and red pepper flakes. Use your hands to rub the seasonings evenly over the cheese.

3. Whisk the orange juice and Dijon into the shallots. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

4. Grill the cheese over direct heat until grill marks appear and the cheese begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Use a metal spatula and a decisive push to lift the cheese and flip it over; if it sticks, use a two-pronged fork to help scrape the tasty browned bits from the grates. Grill until grill marks appear on the second side, another 1 to 2 minutes. Use the spatula and two-pronged fork to transfer the cheese to a serving dish or, if you want to keep it warm until serving, a small cast-iron skillet placed on the cooler portion of the grill.

5. When you’re ready to serve, toss the greens with the vinaigrette and place them on a serving platter; top with the warm cheese and the toasted nuts (alternatively, you can divide the greens and cheese into individual servings). Serve immediately, with grilled bread on the side.