Continued, Food52 Any Night Grilling

I wasn’t a wing enthusiast until I cooked them on the grill—then I was hooked. The high heat renders the fat, crisping the skin and making them taste both rich and improbably light (unlike the gut-bomb sports bar variety). Of course, wings are the quintessential party snack, something spicy and messy to entertain you while you’re sipping cocktails and swapping one-liners. They can also be the attraction, join other small plates, or provide a hearty snack for friends waiting on something with a longer cooking time, like a smoked whole turkey or brisket. A two-zone fire is essential here because it provides nice heat for an initial char, as well as a moderate zone to cook the meat through without scorching the skin. I use drumettes because they’re meaty and easier to eat, and Cholula for the hot sauce. It’s a smoky Mexican hot sauce that’s delicious on eggs, tacos, and just about everything. For more sauce ideas, though, see this page.

1. Place the drumettes in a large bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, generously season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.

2. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

3. While the grill heats, in a separate bowl, stir together the Cholula, parsley, butter, lemon juice, and garlic.

4. Grill the drumettes over direct heat, flipping and rotating as needed for even cooking, until nicely charred on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Move the drumettes to indirect heat, close the grill, and continue to cook, turning the drumettes often (and closing the grill lid in between), until cooked through and the juices run clear (if you’re uncertain, cut into one to check), 20 to 25 minutes.

5. Place the hot drumettes in the bowl with the Cholula butter, toss vigorously until well coated, and serve immediately.

WORLDWIDE WINGS

Of course, wings are infinitely flexible, so follow the recipe on this page, but mix up the sauce to suit your craving or the occasion. Here are a few ideas:

Swap in FRESH LIME JUICE + CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO for the lemon juice + parsley

Use DIJON MUSTARD instead of Cholula + ½ cup (20g) CHOPPED FRESH HERBS (basil, chives, or tarragon)

Combine 3 to 4 tablespoons PESTO OR OLIVE TAPENADE + 2 tablespoons OLIVE OIL

Marinate with ½ cup (120ml) TIKI DRESSING (this page) + CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO AND MINT + TOASTED SESAME SEEDS

Use 3 tablespoons PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS (this page) + CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY

Combine ½ cup (120ml) of your favorite bottled or homemade PEANUT SAUCE + FRESH LIME JUICE + thinly sliced SCALLIONS

He looks like the famed gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardt, but the real reason I’m smitten with Tim Byres, the chef of Smoke in Dallas (and author of the stellar Smoke: New Firewood Cooking), is his devotion to honest, down-home cooking, much of it fired on a grill. These subtly sweet and smoky drumsticks are inspired by one of his recipes. Yes, this method calls for an extended marinade, but the seductive flavors and tender meat are well worth it. Plus, it’s easy to whisk together the marinade in the morning and kind of exciting to be ready to roll for a casual weeknight dinner party when you return home. As with wings, it’s important to remember that drumsticks require frequent turning to cook evenly and create that beautifully crisp, browned skin that we all want to eat. Twenty drumsticks might seem like a lot, but leftovers make for a very happy lunch (or picnic) the following day.

1. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, mustard, lemon juice, coriander, cayenne, and olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Pour the mixture into a large resealable plastic bag. Add the drumsticks and turn to coat. Seal the bag, pressing out the air, and refrigerate for at least 8 or up to 24 hours.

2. About an hour before grilling, remove the drumsticks from the fridge. Soak the wood chips in water for 30 minutes.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

4. Remove the drumsticks from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Grill the drumsticks over direct heat, turning as needed until all sides are nicely charred, 12 to 15 minutes, then transfer to a baking sheet.

5. Drain the wood chips and scatter them over the coals. If you’re using a gas grill, put them in a perforated aluminum foil packet or smoker box and place directly over the flames. When the chips begin to smoke, return the chicken to the grill over indirect heat. Close the grill and smoke the chicken, turning every 5 minutes or so, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the drumsticks registers 165°F (75°C), 35 to 40 minutes.

6. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter, cover with foil to keep warm, and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

When my husband and I spent four years cooking on a ranch in the Texas Hill Country, where rosemary flourishes (it’s “bulletproof,” as they say in these parts), we started using it in just about everything. When the resiny sprigs are placed on the periphery of hot coals, whatever you’re grilling is perfumed with an intoxicating rosemary smoke. The secret to perfect chicken thighs is to grill them at a low heat that allows their fat to render and crisp while the meat gently cooks to juicy perfection. We usually serve these thighs over arugula with a squeeze of lemon, but they’re also delicious with blistered cherry tomatoes and grilled bread, pasta, or a quinoa pilaf.

1. About an hour before cooking, remove the chicken thighs from the fridge and place them in a bowl. Drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season generously with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.

2. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

3. When the coals are covered with ash and glowing orangish red with no black remaining (about 35 minutes after you light the coals), use tongs to lift the grate and place the rosemary sprigs directly on the periphery of the coals. Return the grate, then place the thighs on the grill over direct heat and close the grill. (If you’re using a gas grill, put the rosemary in a perforated aluminum foil packet or in a smoker box.) Cook the thighs, flipping and rotating them around the heat every 5 minutes or so (closing the grill in between) for even cooking, about 30 minutes. The chicken skin should be a rich mahogany, and the meat should feel firm but not dry to the touch. Remove the chicken, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Scatter arugula on a serving platter. Serve the warm or room-temperature chicken on top, with lemon wedges on the side.

THE SECRET TO SPECTACULAR BONELESS BREASTS

Chicken breasts—particularly the boneless, skinless variety—have gotten a bad rap. Even though they’re ubiquitous as an “add-on” protein for salads and such, the lean cut is less than ideal to grill because the breasts can dry out quickly. But they needn’t be yawn inducing, because chicken breasts are also the proverbial blank canvas, so you can dress them up to satisfy any craving (which means you have a world of options beyond Caesar salad). And when time is of the essence, there are few things faster to cook on the grill. Here’s how to bring out their best by enhancing flavor before and after cooking, as well as some ways to serve them with style.

Before Cooking

With a clean, mild flavor, a chicken breast begs to be seasoned. Start with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.

Super-lean cuts need added fat for flavor and to prevent them from sticking to the grill. For the best results, coat the meat and the preheated cooking grate with oil before cooking.

When time allows (such as the morning before cooking), marinate breasts in a resealable plastic bag with olive oil, salt and pepper, and chopped fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary, oregano, or marjoram are great options) or spice blends (harissa, garam masala, cumin and smoked paprika, or even curry paste moistened with vegetable oil).

The cooking process needs to be quick to avoid drying out the meat, so grill over high heat until the breasts are lightly charred and white throughout, 3 to 4 minutes per side. For faster and more even cooking (hence a lesser chance of overcooking), pound the chicken breasts to an even thickness before grilling.

After Cooking

For the juiciest results, it’s essential to let the meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

Garnish with big-flavored toppings like olive relish, crumbled aged cheese, salsa, or Green Chile Mayo (this page).

Give grilled breasts a rich, creamy backdrop by serving them over a slather of hummus (top with hot sauce), feta or goat cheese puree, or Charred Scallion Dressing (this page).

A FEW FAVORITE COMBINATIONS

Consider each one a ticket to a delicious destination. These easy-to-assemble and completely crave-worthy variations deliver every time.

BAR PITTI: Serve pounded, grilled chicken breasts over thinly sliced endive and sun-dried tomatoes. Top with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and flaky salt and serve with a lemon wedge.

BANDOL: Top fresh arugula (or assorted grilled chicories) with chicken and big-flavored ingredients like oil-cured olives and a drizzle of aioli.

PERSONAL TRAINER: Pair chicken breasts with a grain salad, such as one made with farro, freekeh, barley, or quinoa.

OTTOLENGHI: Marinate breasts in harissa-spiked olive oil, then grill and serve sliced in grilled pita bread with cucumber salad and Sumac Yogurt Sauce (this page).

TGV: Serve chicken breast on a toasted baguette with bánh mì fixings (see Grilled Mushroom Bánh Mì, this page) or on sourdough bread with crisp bacon, lemony mayo, and sliced tomato.

ORTIZ: Make chicken tacos with a spicy cabbage slaw, sliced avocado, a squeeze of lime, and charred corn tortillas.

Spatchcocked Chicken with Haricots Verts & Grilled Lemons

Serves 2 to 4

The technique of spatchcocking (butterflying a bird so it lies flat while it cooks) has been around since cooks wore wimples. The method allows more delicious skin to lie flush against the heat so the bird cooks fast and evenly, with crispy, delicious skin. Charred haricots verts and a squeeze of smoky grilled lemon round out a simple and satisfying meal, which you could also serve with Grilled Lemon Mayo (this page), Salsa Verde (this page), and a leafy salad.

One 4- to 4½-pound (1.8 to 2kg) chicken, back and wing tips removed (ask your butcher to spatchcock it for you)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch thyme

8 ounces (225g) haricots verts or green beans, stem ends trimmed

2 spring onions or scallions, halved

2 lemons

Flaky salt

1. Pat the chicken dry and drizzle both sides with enough olive oil to lightly coat. Generously season with kosher salt and pepper. Spread the thyme sprigs on a baking sheet and lay the seasoned chicken on top, skin side up. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature.

3. Place the seasoned chicken, skin side down, onto the grill over direct heat and place half of the thyme sprigs on the cavity. Close the grill and cook until the skin is browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip the chicken (discarding any burnt sprigs), top with the remaining thyme sprigs, close the grill, and cook until browned and nearly cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken will read 160°F/70°C), 8 to 10 minutes. Carefully flip once more and cook for 3 to 5 minutes more with the grill uncovered, until the skin is crisp and brown. Transfer the chicken to a rimmed baking sheet to rest.

4. Allow a grill basket to heat for 10 minutes. Place the haricots verts and spring onions in the grill basket and grill over direct heat, stirring often, until lightly charred, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the lemons in half crosswise, brush the cut side of each lemon with olive oil, and grill over direct heat until browned and slightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the sheet of grilled chicken. Place the charred haricots verts and onions on a large serving platter and top with the chicken (and any juices that have collected) and the grilled lemons. (You can also slice the grilled onions thinly and mix into the beans.) Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with flaky salt, and serve.

Grill-Roasted Chicken with Tomatillo Salsa

Serves 4

Warning: The smoky, juicy results of this recipe may prevent you from ever buying rotisserie chicken from the store again. Yes, grilling a whole chicken is a slower game than, say, searing chops, but the delicious payoff will leave you yearning to do it again soon. Depending on the size of your bird, you should plan an hour and change of roasting, but most of that time is unattended (see timeline, this page). In between, you’ll have time to whip together a tomatillo salsa (a fiery condiment you’ll enjoy with eggs the next morning—this recipe makes about 4 cups/950ml of it) and prep the rest of the meal (perhaps squeeze a few limes for margaritas).

One 4- to 4½-pound (1.8 to 2kg) chicken

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 to 10 corn tortillas

Taco toppings of your choice (such as thinly sliced cabbage, radishes, and avocado)

Tomatillo Salsa

8 or 9 tomatillos (about 2 pounds/900g), husked and rinsed

1 onion, quartered through the root

2 or 3 serrano or jalapeño chiles (as desired for heat)

2 or 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 cup (20g) fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Kosher salt

1. Generously season the chicken with salt and pepper. Position the chicken on a work surface, breast side up, with the legs pointing toward you. Center a 2-foot (60cm) piece of twine under the back of the bird and bring both sides around the wings (securing them to the carcass) and up and around the legs (securing them together). Set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, make the salsa. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again. If you’re using a grill basket to make the salsa, allow it to heat for 10 minutes before cooking.

3. Working in batches if necessary, grill the tomatillos, onion, chiles, and garlic (in a grill basket if desired) over direct heat until the vegetables are blackened and blistered on all sides, 4 to 6 minutes for the tomatillos and chiles, a few minutes longer for the onion and garlic. Transfer to a baking sheet to cool.

4. When you’re ready to cook the chicken, remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan filled with ½ inch (1.3cm) of water on the side of the grill without coals (if you have a hinged grate, the hinged side should be over the coals).

5. Return the grate and place the chicken, breast side down, on the grill over the drip pan. (For a gas grill, turn off 1 burner for indirect cooking and place the filled drip pan over the unlit burner). Close the grill and cook, adjusting the vents and gas levels or adding more charcoal as needed to maintain a grill temperature between 350°F and 400°F (175°C and 200°C) for 35 minutes (this is a good time to refill and light your charcoal chimney so you’ll have hot coals ready when you need them). Use tongs and a spatula (or your hand if necessary) to carefully flip the chicken breast side up. Close the grill and continue to cook, maintaining the temperature between 350°F and 400°F (175°C and 200°C), until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F (75°C), about 30 minutes more. Toward the end of cooking, move the chicken directly over the heat to brown and crisp the skin, if desired (see following). Let the chicken rest for 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes before carving.

6. While the chicken rests, grill the tortillas over direct heat until lightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. Keep warm in a basket or wrapped in a kitchen towel. Then, finish the salsa. Stem the chiles, peel the garlic, and put them in a food processor. Add the tomatillos, onion, cilantro, and lime juice and process until mostly smooth. Season to taste with salt.

7. Use a knife to quarter or carve the chicken, as desired, and serve with corn tortillas, taco toppings, and tomatillo salsa.

Timeline

5:15 p.m. Season chicken

5:20 p.m. Light charcoal chimney

5:35 p.m. Dump hot coals (flames should be rising from chimney)

6:00 p.m. Fire reaches medium heat (350°F to 400°F/175°C to 200°C), cook salsa ingredients

6:15 p.m. Salsa ingredients off, chicken on

6:50 p.m. Flip chicken

7:25 p.m. Chicken off (rest 15 to 30 minutes), finish salsa, char tortillas

8:00 p.m. Eat!

For a Bronzed Bird

Depending on the size of your bird and the temperature of the grill, the chicken might not take on a beautiful browned color over indirect heat. To achieve a darker, crisper skin, move it over direct heat for the last 10 to 20 minutes of cooking, carefully turning and flipping the chicken as needed for even coloring.

Tipsy Chicken with Smoky Pan Drippings

Serves 4

Beer-can chicken is more than just shtick: A beer can provides the base for a whole chicken so it roasts upright, cooking evenly. As the chicken cooks, steam from the beer subtly flavors the meat and keeps it moist. (The setup is less precarious if you use a beer stand, available online, but it’s not essential). Plus, any recipe that begins with drinking half a beer is right up my alley. In this recipe, the chicken is slathered with feisty red spices and cooked with a hoppy IPA; it creates a beautifully bronzed bird. Serve this chicken with the outrageously delicious smoky pan drippings and either cooked barley (sticking with the beer theme) or farro.

Red Spice Rub

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico)

2 cloves garlic, finely grated

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

One 12-ounce (355ml) can IPA or citrusy craft brew

One 4- to 4½-pound (1.8 to 2kg) chicken

2 sprigs parsley

2 sprigs oregano

1 lemon, quartered

2 to 3 cups (475 to 710ml) chicken stock or water

Cooked barley or farro

¼ cup (10g) lightly chopped fresh parsley

3 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias

1. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

2. While the grill heats, make the red spice rub. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, salt, smoked paprika, coriander, chile powder, garlic, and vinegar and stir until it forms a paste.

3. Drink half the beer. Smile. Season the entire chicken inside and out with the rub and stick the parsley and oregano sprigs and lemon quarters in the cavity. Place the beer can in a metal stand (if using) and then place the cavity of chicken, legs pointing down, onto the open can so that it supports the chicken upright.

4. Remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan filled with ½ inch (1.3cm) of stock on the side of the grill without coals (if you have a hinged grate, the hinged side should be over the coals). For a gas grill, turn off 1 burner for indirect cooking and place the filled drip pan over the unlit burner.

5. Place chicken on the grill above the drip pan over indirect heat. Close the grill and grill the chicken until cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of thigh registers 165°F (75°C), 45 to 60 minutes (refill and light your charcoal chimney right away so you’ll have hot coals ready when you need them). To ensure the bird browns evenly, rotate the chicken every 20 minutes. (If using charcoal, you’ll probably need to add more after 30 minutes to maintain heat.)

6. Let chicken rest for 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes before carving. Serve with smoky pan drippings (see this page) and the barley. Garnish with parsley and scallions.

Better Pan Drippings

As the beer-can chicken roasts, its flavorful, smoky juices collect in the drip pan, which is already filled with ½ inch (1.3cm) of stock (or water). Since these juices heat for about an hour, why not make stock? To do this, add the chicken neck you pulled from the bird, a crushed garlic clove, and a few fresh bay leaves to the drip pan before cooking. While the chicken rests, strain the liquid from the drip pan and reduce over medium-high heat in a small saucepan on the stove until it thickens to the desired consistency.

(All Hail) Citrus Ale Chicken

To give the chicken a citrusy flavor, generously season the chicken with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and Szechuan pepper salt. Use a citrusy beer and fill the cavity of the chicken with a couple of swaths of orange and grapefruit peel, 2 fresh bay leaves, and a sprig of oregano.

Hill Country Quail with Greens & Chickpeas

Serves 4

During our days cooking on a Texas Hill Country ranch, my husband and I learned that autumn and winter mean quail and dove hunts. As a result, the rich, flavorful quail rivals chicken at backyard barbecues here. These days, we spend less time on rural roads, but luckily semi-boneless or partially boned quail is readily available and easy to cook. A quick dredge in cornmeal provides a pebbly texture and crispy crust that enhances the meat and a rub of red spices. A sauté of garlicky greens and chickpeas round out this rustic meal.

8 partially boned quail

Olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 cup (125g) best-quality stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1 bunch mustard greens or lacinato kale, trimmed

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 or 3 dried arbol chiles

One 15-ounce (425g) can chickpeas, drained

Hot sauce

1. In a large baking dish, drizzle the quail with enough olive oil to lightly coat and generously season with salt and pepper, using your fingers to carefully rub the seasonings under the skin. In a small bowl, combine the smoked paprika, ground chile, cumin, and coriander. Sprinkle the spices over the birds, using your fingers to rub the spices under the skin, then set aside to marinate.

2. Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

3. While the grill heats, place the cornmeal in a shallow dish and lightly season with salt and pepper. Rotate each bird in the spiced oil to ensure they’re evenly coated, then dredge in the cornmeal and place on a baking sheet.

4. Grill the quail over direct heat, flipping and rotating as needed for even cooking, until nicely charred on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes on each side. Move the birds to indirect heat, close the grill, and continue to cook, flipping every 3 minutes or so (and closing the grill lid in between), until the coating is golden brown and crisp, the meat is cooked through, and the juices run clear, about 12 minutes. Transfer quail to a rimmed baking sheet.

5. Place a cast-iron skillet on the grill grate over the fire and allow it to heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Tear or chop the greens into pieces. Add a generous drizzle of olive oil to the skillet and then the garlic and chiles. When the garlic sizzles, add the greens, chickpeas, and a sprinkling of salt and cook, tossing with tongs (and closing the grill lid in between tosses), until the greens are wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt or hot sauce, as desired. Serve the warm quail alongside the greens and chickpeas.

Sausage Mixed Grill with Radishes, Beets & Pickled Mustard Seeds

Serves 4

Instead of grainy mustard, a grilled link’s usual sidekick, these sausages are served alongside a colorful mix of young radishes and beets perked up with pickled mustard seeds. Brining the vegetables before they’re grilled infuses them with flavor and preserves moisture. Using a mix of varieties (watermelon, purple daikon, or black radishes; Chioggia and golden beets) creates a stunning plate. Be sure to prick the sausages with a sharp knife before grilling to help them release any excess fat.

1 cup (240ml) distilled white vinegar, plus more as needed

⅓ cup (65g) sugar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon pink peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

4 fresh bay leaves

2 dried arbol chiles

12 ounces (340g) mixed young beets—scrubbed, trimmed, and halved lengthwise

8 ounces (225g) mixed radishes, scrubbed, trimmed, and halved

Olive oil, for drizzling

8 fresh or smoked sausages (such as hot or sweet Italian, bratwurst, smoked kielbasa, chorizo, or merguez)

Handful of greens (such as arugula, spinach, or watercress)

½ cup (20g) freshly chopped cilantro

3 tablespoons Pickled Mustard Seeds (this page)

Grilled bread (see this page)

1. On the stove top in a saucepan, bring the vinegar, sugar, 2 tablespoons salt, the peppercorns, coriander, bay leaves, chiles, and 3 cups (710ml) water to a boil. Add the beets, lower the heat, and simmer until they’re crisp-tender, about 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the radishes, and let everything cool in the brine. (You can refrigerate the vegetables in the brine in an airtight container for up to 2 days.)

2. When you’re ready to grill, remove the vegetables from the brine, pat them dry, and place them in a large bowl. Discard the brine.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

4. Drizzle the brined vegetables with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season lightly with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Grill over direct heat, turning occasionally, until lightly charred, 6 to 8 minutes, and then set aside.

5. Grill the sausages over indirect heat, turning and rotating as needed for even cooking, until cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes. In a large bowl, toss together the grilled beets and radishes, greens, cilantro, and mustard seeds. Season with salt and pepper, then taste the vegetables and add more olive oil or vinegar as needed. Serve the vegetables with the sausages and grilled bread.

For a Faster Sausage Grill

If you poach the sausages in water or beer before grilling, they’ll require less time on the grates (a few minutes over direct heat should do it).

Porchetta-Style Pork Kebabs with White Beans

Serves 4

Traditional Italian porchetta—pork flavored with garlic and herbs—is a showstopper, a massive rolled roast that’s a long-cooked affair. It’s not gonna happen on a weeknight. But these pretty kebabs made with pork tenderloin and rosemary branches create similar flavors in a fraction of the time. After the meat is charred over high heat, it finishes cooking over white beans that capture the delicious drippings.

8 sturdy rosemary sprigs, ideally about 8 inches (20cm) long

1 pork tenderloin

2 tablespoons freshly chopped thyme leaves

2 cloves garlic, minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Two 15-ounce (425g) cans cannellini beans, drained

3 or 4 fresh bay leaves, torn

Olive oil, for drizzling and brushing

2 large lemons

1. Remove all the rosemary leaves from the branches except 2 inches (5cm) at the top of each. With a sharp knife, cut the leafless end of each branch at an angle to make a point, which will make it easier to skewer the pork. Coarsely chop the rosemary leaves you removed from the branches.

2. Cut the pork into 1½- to 2-inch (4 to 5cm) pieces and place in a bowl. Season with 2 tablespoons of the chopped rosemary, the thyme, garlic, and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Set aside to marinate at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

3. In an aluminum drip pan, combine the beans, bay leaves, and a generous drizzle of olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

4. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

5. Skewer the pieces of pork with the rosemary sprigs. Avoid packing them too tightly or they won’t cook evenly. When you’re ready to grill, remove the cooking grate, place the pan of beans alongside the coals, and return the cooking grate. (For a gas grill, turn off 1 burner for indirect cooking and place the filled drip pan over the unlit burner). Brush the pork skewers with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the pork kebabs over direct heat until nicely browned on each side, 12 to 14 minutes total.

6. Move the kebabs over the drip pan, brush with olive oil again, close the grill, and cook until the pork is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet to rest. Remove the beans from the heat, add the zest from 1 lemon, and toss to combine. Halve the lemons crosswise and grill until nicely charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Place beans on serving platter, top with pork skewers and charred lemon halves, and serve.

Porterhouse Pork Chops with Sage-Chile Butter

Serves 4

Few things make me anticipate dinner more than the hiss of chops on a hot grill—particularly when they’re accompanied by the aroma of an herbaceous butter. Thick and meaty, porterhouse pork chops are more luxurious—and forgiving, thanks to a higher fat content—than other chops. On a charcoal grill, both the meat and the chile-infused herb butter take on an incredible smoky quality. Sage works beautifully with pork, but you can also use rosemary or thyme. Serve these chops alongside crispy grilled potatoes (see this page), a green vegetable (charred asparagus or any type of pole bean), and grilled bread (see this page)—and drizzle the butter over everything on the plate.

4 porterhouse (bone-in loin) pork chops, each about 1 inch (2.5cm) thick

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (110g) unsalted butter

4 or 5 sprigs sage

2 or 3 dried arbol chiles, as desired for heat

1 clove garlic, crushed

Flaky salt

1. Thoroughly pat the pork chops dry with paper towels. Generously season both sides of the chops with kosher salt and pepper.

3. Place the butter, sage, chiles, and garlic in a small cast-iron skillet. Set the skillet over indirect heat until the butter sizzles, a few minutes, and then move the skillet to a cooler corner of the grill or the upper warming rack, if you have one, to keep warm (if you keep the butter in the grill it will continue to absorb the smoky aromas).

4. Grill the chops over direct heat, turning as needed for even cooking, until nicely browned and the internal temperature reaches between 145°F (63°C) for medium-rare and 160°F (70°C) for medium, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove the chops from the grill, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes.

5. Sprinkle chops with flaky salt and serve with a drizzle of the sage-chile butter.

Bardstown Baby Backs with Bourbon-Mustard Glaze

Serves 4

It’s a revelation to discover you don’t need to babysit a low-and-slow fire for hours to have a roll-up-your-sleeves rib feast. Enter baby backs, which are smaller, leaner, and more tender than spareribs, so they can be cooked directly over coals in no more than 30 minutes. I’ve never been a fan of sweet sauces, but this boozy mustard glaze, inspired by a trip to bourbon country in Kentucky, is right up my alley.

2 cups (180g) wood chips (preferably hickory, pecan, or oak)

Water or beer (or a combination), for soaking the wood chips

2 racks baby back ribs, about 3 pounds (1.4kg) each

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (120ml) Creole mustard (preferably Zatarain’s)

½ cup (120ml) cider vinegar

½ cup (120ml) bourbon

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1. Soak the wood chips in water for 30 minutes.

2. About an hour before cooking, season the ribs with salt and pepper and place in a baking dish. Let sit at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

4. While the grill heats, on the stove top, combine the mustard, vinegar, bourbon, brown sugar, ½ teaspoon pepper, and pinch of salt in a small saucepan and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat.

5. Drain the wood chips and scatter them over the coals. If using a gas grill, place them in a perforated aluminum foil packet or smoker box directly over the flames.

6. When the chips begin to smoke, grill the ribs over direct heat, flipping and rotating the racks as needed for even cooking until no longer pink, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the meat rest at least 10 minutes, then slice into individual ribs and place them in a large bowl. Pour the bourbon-mustard glaze over the ribs, toss vigorously, and serve.