Eating Asian America

CONTENTS

List of Figures and Maps

Acknowledgments

An Alimentary Introduction

Robert Ji-Song Ku, Martin F. Manalansan IV, and Anita Mannur

PART I: LABORS OF TASTE

1. Cambodian Donut Shops and the Negotiation of Identity in Los Angeles

Erin M. Curtis

2. Tasting America: The Politics and Pleasures of School Lunch in Hawai‘i

Christine R. Yano (with Wanda Adams)

3. A Life Cooking for Others: The Work and Migration Experiences of a Chinese Restaurant Worker in New York City, 1920–1946

Heather R. Lee

4. Learning from Los Kogi Angeles: A Taco Truck and Its City

Oliver Wang

5. The Significance of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine in Postcolonial Hawai‘i

Samuel Hideo Yamashita

PART II: EMPIRES OF FOOD

6. Incarceration, Cafeteria Style: The Politics of the Mess Hall in the Japanese American Incarceration

Heidi Kathleen Kim

7. As American as Jackrabbit Adobo: Cooking, Eating, and Becoming Filipina/o American before World War II

Dawn Bohulano Mabalon

8. Lechon with Heinz, Lea & Perrins with Adobo: The American Relationship with Filipino Food, 1898–1946

René Alexander Orquiza Jr.

9. “Oriental Cookery”: Devouring Asian and Pacific Cuisine during the Cold War

Mark Padoongpatt

10. Gannenshoyu or First-Year Soy Sauce? Kikkoman Soy Sauce and the Corporate Forgetting of the Early Japanese American Consumer

Robert Ji-Song Ku

PART III: FUSION, DIFFUSION, CONFUSION?

11. Twenty-First-Century Food Trucks: Mobility, Social Media, and Urban Hipness

Lok Siu

12. Samsa on Sheepshead Bay: Tracing Uzbek Foodprints in Southern Brooklyn

Zohra Saed

13. Apple Pie and Makizushi: Japanese American Women Sustaining Family and Community

Valerie J. Matsumoto

14. Giving Credit Where It Is Due: Asian American Farmers and Retailers as Food System Pioneers

Nina F. Ichikawa

15. Beyond Authenticity: Rerouting the Filipino Culinary Diaspora

Martin F. Manalansan IV

PART IV: READABLE FEASTS

16. Acting Asian American, Eating Asian American: The Politics of Race and Food in Don Lee’s Wrack and Ruin

Jennifer Ho

17. Devouring Hawai‘i: Food, Consumption, and Contemporary Art

Margo Machida

18. “Love Is Not a Bowl of Quinces”: Food, Desire, and the Queer Asian Body in Monique Truong’s The Book of Salt

Denise Cruz

19. The Globe at the Table: How Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian Reconfigures the World

Delores B. Phillips

20. Perfection on a Plate: Readings in the South Asian Transnational Queer Kitchen

Anita Mannur