Deck Accessories

The addition of one or more built-in features not only adds to the potential uses of the deck, the features can also add immeasurably to the look of the structure. Regardless of whether you choose a bench, a planter, a pergola, or other structure, you can customize the look to blend in or stand out.

Take benches, for instance. A built-in deck bench can be plain or sophisticated, sleek or boxy. In any case, they add useful extra seating to the deck, and a high back on a deck bench can serve in place of railings.

But the choices hardly stop with benches. Add planters to your deck to bring a touch of the garden to the area. Privacy screens—like so many other built-in features—serve both practical and aesthetic purposes, blocking the view from neighbors’ yards or nearby streets.

Of course, individual add-ons are only the beginning. You can mix and match for a truly one-of-a-kind look. Build a bench with two planters on either end, or join a privacy screen and pergola to create a show-stopping deck focal point.

Whatever feature or features you choose, keep in mind that many of these must adhere to the same code requirements imposed on the deck structure itself. Whenever you’re planning on building anything that will be attached to the deck—and certainly something as significant as a privacy fence or bench—your first stop should be the local building department.

In this chapter:

▪ Deck Planters

▪ Privacy Screen

▪ Deck Benches

▪ Deck Skirting

Choosing the Perfect Accessories

Although you can add built-in features even after you’ve built your deck, it’s always wiser to include deck extras as part of your initial planning. That way you can buy the necessary materials all at once and, in the case of a larger structure such as a screened gazebo, you’ll have a chance to adjust the actual layout of your deck to accommodate the feature. Planning ahead also allows you to budget for the additional features. Depending on how intricate or extensive the feature is, it may add a considerable amount to the cost of a small- or medium-sized deck.

When deciding on extras for your particular deck, start with how you’ll be using the platform. Which feature will best suit the activities you had in mind when you first decided to build your outdoor getaway? Some features, such as benches, are practical and functional no matter how you intend to enjoy your deck. Other features, such as privacy screens, are additions that serve a specific, easily identifiable need. Ask yourself how often you’ll have big groups of people over for outdoor parties, how private you want the space to be, and how unique and special you want to make your deck.

The bigger your deck is, the more options you have. A larger deck is also often a great opportunity to combine features to get the most bang for your money and effort. Planters and benches are natural partners on the surface of a deck. You can build them as separate units, or choose a plan in which the planters are used as the supports for the bench seat itself. Either way, it’s always more pleasurable to sit surrounded by flowers and plant life.

Many built-in features are combined with, or run into, the railing. For instance, benches are often built in lieu of a railing on a lower deck for which code requires no railing, and with a back on higher decks that serves in place of a railing. Privacy screens and fences are often linked to railings as well, and can be visually blended with the railing by accenting them with similar finials, materials, and detailing to make them seem like an extension of the railings. For practical purposes—and to meet code requirements—railings are often built right into the supporting members of larger structures such as pergolas, arbors, and especially gazebos.

A house-mounted pergola can be both a stunning deck addition and a handy shade structure. Use shade sails between the rafters, as this homeowner has done, to create a completely shaded alcove.

Deck Accessories and Codes

As with most elements of deck construction, builtin features are regulated by local codes and zoning requirements. Taller, more substantial structures such as fences, privacy screens, and gazebos must be positioned so that they don’t impede egress or stand too close to windows or property line setbacks.

Edge-mounted structures, such as benches and some planters, generally have to conform to the same code requirements that regulate deck railing construction. For instance, many codes no longer allow for notched railing posts mounted over the edge of the deck and bolted into the rim joist. The same is true for bench posts, screens, and fences mounted in this fashion. In the case of fences or privacy screens, the code requirements may actually be more rigid than with railings because of the added stress of wind loads.

All this means that adding built-in features to your deck merits a trip to the building department to determine which, if any, codes bear directly on the construction of the feature.

More involved built-in features, such as complete outdoor kitchens, are almost as big a project as the deck itself. These require enormous planning and often involve running electric, gas, and other connections. That means multiple codes and much more involved construction. These sorts of extensive deck additions are discussed in more detail on page 234 to 240.

A screened gazebo serves as a fabulous outdoor room that is at once a beautiful part of the deck and a separate area entirely. Check with your local building department because an elevated gazebo such as this may be regulated by additional codes.

Deck Planters

What better way to truly integrate a deck with your landscaping than to introduce plants right on top of the surface? Supplement your deck design with one or more planters and you have the opportunity to grow just about any vegetation that catches your fancy.

The easiest planters to build are simple squares or rectangles like the one featured here. However, you shouldn’t feel confined to those basic shapes; most planter plans can easily be adapted to just about any shape. That adaptability can come in handy when you need to tuck the planter into the odd corner of an unusual deck design.

Regardless of what shape you choose, it’s always helpful to have some idea of what you want to plant in the planter. Different plants can require radically different types of soil and space for roots. A tree will require a much different planter than a small display of blooming annuals. In any case, it’s wise to attach the planter to the deck to prevent it from falling over due to high winds or rambunctious party guests.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw

Miter saw

Power drill & bits

Measuring tape

4 × 4 lumber

1 × 3 lumber

1 × 1 nailing strips

1 × 4 lumber

3" galvanized deck screws

2-1/2" galvanized deck screws

3/4" exterior grade plywood

Nail set

Pond liner or 6-mil poly

A planter like this is relatively easy to construct and adds immeasurably to the look of the deck, not only with its design, but also by hosting attractive plant life.

How to Build a Deck Planter

Use a miter saw or circular saw to cut all the framing members. Mark and cut four 4 × 4 legs and twenty 1 × 4 side panels, all 18" long. Cut four 1 × 2 rails 21" long, and four 14" long. Cut eight 1 × 1 nailing strips 14" long.

Assemble the end panels by laying four 1 × 4s side by side, aligning them perfectly. Lay a short 1 × 2 rail across one end, running it perpendicular to the boards. Drill pilot holes, and screw the rail to each of the panel boards.

Position the nailing strips along the outside edges of the panel and drill pilot holes. Screw the nailing strips in place, and then screw the bottom rail in place as you did with the top rail. Butt it up against the bottom of the nailing strips (there should be a gap between the bottom edge of the rail and the bottom edges of the panel boards). Repeat the process using six 1 × 4s to construct the side panels.

Set a leg on the worktable and align a panel with the leg. Drill pilot holes through the nailing strip on the back of the panel, into the leg, and screw the panel to the leg using a screw every 2". Continue attaching the legs in the same manner until the box of the planter is complete.

Cut a rectangle of exterior-grade 3/4" plywood, 26-1/2" × 19-1/2". Notch the corners by cutting in 2-3/4" from each edge.

Turn the planter box upside down and screw the plywood bottom into place, drilling pilot holes at the edges into the bottom rails, and then screwing the bottom to the rails. Use a 1/4" bit to drill holes in the center of the plywood to allow for drainage.

Cut the 1 × 4s for the plinth and top frame. Cut four 28" long, and four 21" long. Miter the ends of all pieces 45°.

Attach the planter box to the deck by measuring and setting it into position. Drive 2-1/2" decking screws down through the plywood bottom and into the deck. Use one screw at each corner, located as close to the outer panel as possible.

Screw the plinth pieces in place around the base of the planter by driving 2" deck screws from the inside of the box, through the bottom rail and into the plinth piece. Use three screws per side.

Staple the planter box liner all around, attaching it over the top rail, but not so that it overlaps onto the outside of the side panels. Cut some holes in the bottom for drainage.

Drill pilot holes through the outside edges of the top frame pieces through the miters. Position the frame in place on the planter and drill pilot holes down through the frame and into the legs. Nail the frame in place with galvanized finish nails, and use a nailset to sink the nails.

Sand and finish the box if desired. Add a few inches of gravel at the bottom, then soil and plants. Water thoroughly.

Privacy Screen

Today’s deck has the potential to be much, much more than just a simple step-out platform. You can design your deck to be an outdoor dining room with a secluded nook for quiet, intimate meals, a discrete sunbathing platform, or a sanctuary to read the paper in peace and get away from it all. But for all of these, privacy is key. A romantic brunch is no fun when it’s in direct view of a neighbor’s yard or kitchen window. And that’s where a privacy screen can come in mighty handy.

Deck-mounted privacy screens have to conform to the same codes—or in some cases, more stringent versions—that the deck railings do. You have to be very careful that the placement of a screen does not impede on an egress opening, and that the clearance around windows and vents is adequately maintained. If you live in an area subject to strong winds, code issues will be even more of a concern and the screen may require special reinforcement so that it can withstand added wind load. Ultimately, you may also have to install blocking between the joists running to where the screen is mounted, to help combat the stress from the wind load.

As important as code issues are, don’t lose sight of the fact that a privacy screen is a substantial deck feature. Take the time to make sure the design adds to the look, as well as the function, of your deck.

Tools & Materials

Measuring tape

Power drill and bits

Miter saw

Jigsaw or circular saw

1 3/8" spade bit

5 × 1/2" lag screws and washers

3" deck screws

2-1/2" deck screws

1 1/2" 4d galvanized finish nails

4 × 4 lumber

1 × 2 lumber

2 × 4 lumber

Exterior grade 3/4" lattice

Pyramid or other post finial

A lattice privacy screen allows for airflow and some light to filter through, and offers privacy from other yards.

How to Build a Privacy Screen

Measure and cut the 4 × 4 posts for the screen. Each post should be 6'5" long. Miter the bottom ends of the posts to a 22-1/2° angle. Seal the cut ends with a sealant/preservative, even if you’re using pressure treated wood.

Measure and mark 2" up from the bottom of the backside of the posts, and 2" above that mark. Drill 1/2" deep holes at these marks, using a 1 3/8" spade bit. Drill 3/8" pilot holes in the center of the larger holes, all the way through the post.

Mark the locations of the top and bottom plates on the inside faces of the posts. Mark the post positions on the side of the deck and double check your measurements (the posts should be exactly 46" apart on center). Hold the posts in position and mark through the pilot holes for the joist holes.

Attach the privacy screen posts to the edge of the deck with the aid of a helper. Hold each post in place, checking plumb with a level, and use 5 × 1/2" lag screws and washers to connect the post to the deck.

Position the bottom plate between the two posts, using spacers to hold the plate in place. Screw the plate to the posts from the top, in toenail fashion, using two 3" deck screws on both sides.

Cut the screen frame pieces from 1 × 2 stock: 2 side pieces 5 ft. long, and top and bottom pieces 43" long. Miter the ends of the framing pieces to 45°. Mark a 4 × 8 sheet of lattice and use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the sheet down to 4 × 5.

Drill countersunk pilot holes in the edges of all the screen framing pieces for the 3" deck screws that will secure the frame to the posts and plates. Space the holes about 10" apart.

Assemble the front frame by clamping pieces at the mitered joints, drilling pilot holes for 2" deck screws. Measure diagonally after the frame is finished to ensure square. Assemble the rest of the frame in the same way, and repeat to construct the back frame.

Add the outside frame. Drill pilot holes into the post and attach with 3" deck screws.

Place the lattice in position and install the inner frame. Predrill and nail the inner to the outer frame through a lattice strip every 8" with 4d galvanized nails.

Screw the top plate into place, and screw the top frame pieces to the top plate and to each other. Finish the screen by covering the post tops with finials. The finials used here are glued to the post top with construction adhesive.

Add additional segments by repeating these steps and adding a 2 × 6 cap mitered at 22-1/2° at the mated ends. This plate will replace the finials.

Deck Benches

A well-designed deck bench can often serve double duty. Installed along the perimeter of a low-lying deck, a long bench adds visual interest to what is often a fairly uninteresting uniform shape. Benches with built-in backs can stand in for railings on higher decks, ensuring the safety, as well as comfort, of everyone.

You can build fully enclosed deck benches to create useful additional storage—a handy way to hide sporting goods and cookout gear when they are not in use. Benches are also the perfect partner to planters, visually linking one or more independent mini-gardens.

Of course, the most important role any deck bench fulfills is that of accessible, durable, and comfortable seating on the deck. If you can measure accurately and operate a miter saw precisely, you can complete this bench in a weekend. It’s a good idea to drive screws up through the underside of the deck into the legs so that the screws are completely invisible.

Tools & Materials

Tape measure

Circular saw

Miter saw

Power drill

4 × 4 lumber

1 × 4 lumber

2 × 4 lumber

2 × 6 lumber

3 prefab braces and hardware

1" spade bit

3/8" drill bit

Pressure treated2 × 4s

3" galvanized deck screws

2-1/2" decking screws

5 × 3/8" lag screws

Bar clamps

Improve the look and comfort of a deck with a built-in bench. Building one is fairly easy, whether you’re retrofitting an existing deck or adding one as part of a brand-new platform.

How to Build a Deck-mounted Bench

Cut six 15"-long legs from 4 × 4s. Cut 3 bases from the same material as the legs. Each base should be 4" long.

Place a leg on the worktable with a scrap piece underneath. Mark and drill a 1" hole, 1/2" deep, 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the leg on the outside face (use a depth gauge on a spade bit). Change to a 3/8" bit to complete the pilot hole, drilling a hole in the center of the larger hole, and through the other side of the leg.

Drill identical base holes on all the other legs. Place a base in position against the inside edges of two legs, aligned with the bottom of the legs. Stick a long thin spike, awl, or other marking device through the hole to mark the location of the pilot holes on each end of the base.

Remove the base and drill 1/4" pilot holes into the ends at the marks. Repeat with all the bases and mark each base for the legs it goes with.

Measure and cut the leg top plates. These can be pressure-treated 2 × 4s because they won’t be visible once the bench is assembled. Cut three plates 16-1/2" long. Make marks on the long edges of the plates 2-3/4" from each end.

Complete the leg assemblies by aligning the edge marks on each top plate with the outside edges of the legs, and drilling two pilot holes through the top of the plate into each leg. Attach the plates to the legs with 3" screws.

Cut three 2 × 6s, each exactly 6 ft. long, for the seat. Lay them side by side, clamped together with the ends aligned. Mark the leg positions across the boards. The end leg units should be 2" from each end. The center leg unit should be centered along the span. Note: Make attaching the legs to the decking easier and more secure by determining leg position along the deck before attaching them to the seat. Center each leg board on top of a decking board so that you can screw into the center of the board to secure the legs.

Set the leg assemblies in place, upside down on the 2 × 6s, using the marks for reference. Screw through the bottom of the top plates into the seat boards. Use two 2-1/2" decking screws per 2 × 6, for each leg unit.

Cut two 2 × 4 side frame pieces 6'3" long, and two end pieces 19-1/2" long. Miter each edge 45° and dry fit the frame around the outside of the bench seat.

Assemble the frame by attaching the end pieces to the ends of the 2 × 6s, and the side pieces to the pressure-treated top plates. Use 3" deck screws to secure the frame pieces in place. Drill pilot holes through the miters and screw the frame pieces to each other.

Position the bench on the deck. Mark the leg base locations. Remove the bench and drill pilot holes for each base, down through the base and deck board. Use a spade bit to countersink the holes. Drive 3/8" lag screws down through the bases into the deck boards. Put the bench into position and secure it to the bases using 3/8" lag bolts and washers.

For a more finished look, cut plugs from the same wood as the legs, and glue them into place to cover the lag bolt heads in the sides of the legs. Sand as necessary, and finish the bench with whatever finish you prefer.

VARIATION: How to Build an Edge-mounted Bench

This project is an edge-mounted bench built by using prefab braces (See Resources, page 347) that make constructing the bench much easier. It has a canted back that allows a person to lean back and relax, and is mounted right to the band joist. We’ve built this as a double bench, with mitered boards on one side so that the benches look like a continuous unit.

Tools & Materials

Power drill & bits

Miter saw

Tape measure

2-1/2" deck screws

Prefab deck braces and hardware

2 × 6 Lumber

2 × 4 Lumber

Attach the first bracket centered along the band joist 6" from where the bench will end. Screw it to the decking and band joist using the 1 1/2" screws and washers provided, screwing through the holes in the bracket.

Attach the second bracket on the band joist, no more than 24" away from the first bracket. Screw two brackets to the adjacent band joist in exactly the same pattern.

Measure and mark six 2 × 6s for the seats and top caps of the benches. The boards should be same width on the inside edge as the band joist, mitered out to the wider back edge 22-1/2°, so that the members of each bench butt flush against each other.

Cut four 2 × 4 back supports 41" long. Miter the top ends 12°. Position each back support in a bracket, mark the 2 × 4 through the holes in the brackets, and drill for the mounting bolts. Attach the back supports with the 2-1/2" bolts supplied, using washers on both sides.

Position the top cap on top of the back supports, leaving a 3/4" overhang in the back. Drill pilot holes and screw the top caps to the back supports with 2-1/2" deck screws, with the mitered edges meeting on the inside corner between the two bench segments. Screw the seat boards into position the same way, driving the supplied 1" screws up through the bottom of the leg brackets, into the 2 × 6 seat boards.

Measure and miter twelve 2 × 4 back and leg boards in the same way as you did the seat and top cap boards, but with the boards on edge. Butt the top back board up underneath the top cap, so that the mitered end is positioned on the inside corner between the two bench segments. Screw it into the back supports using 2-1/2" deck screws.

Attach the two remaining back boards in the same way, leaving a 2" gap between the boards. Position the seat skirt on the front of the bench seat in the same way you positioned the seat boards. Mark and drill pilot holes, and screw the skirt to the front 2 × 6 using 2-1/2" deck screws.

Screw the leg boards into position, using 1" screws driven through the holes in the brackets and scrap 2 × 4 blocks on the flat as spacers. Attach the back, seat, and leg boards on the adjacent bench section in the same way, making sure that the mitered edges leave a 1" gap between the two bench sections. Inset: Install added support behind the back boards where the adjacent benches meet using scrap blocking and deck screws.

Deck Skirting

Elevated decks are often the best solution for a sloped yard or a multi-story house. A deck on high can also take advantage of spectacular views. But the aesthetic drawback to many elevated decks is the view from other parts of the yard. The supporting structure can seem naked and unattractive.

The solution is to install deck skirting. Skirting is essentially a framed screen attached to support posts. Skirting effectively creates a visual base on an elevated deck and adds a more finished look to the entire structure. It looks attractive on just about any deck.

There are many different types of skirting. The project here uses lattice skirting, perhaps the most common and easiest to install. But you can opt for solid walls of boards run vertically or horizontally, depending on the look you’re after and how much time and money you’re willing to spend. However, keep in mind that lattice allows for air circulation underneath the deck. If you install solid skirting, you may need to add vents to prevent rot or other moisture related conditions under the deck. Codes also require that you allow access to egress windows, electrical panels, and other utilities under the deck, which may involve adding a gate or other structure to the skirting.

Regardless of the design, the basic idea behind building skirting is to create a supporting framework that runs between posts, with the skirting surface attached to the framework. Obviously, this provides the opportunity to add a lot of style to an elevated deck. The lattice skirting shown here is fairly easy on the eyes. If you choose to use boards instead, you can arrange them in intriguing patterns, just as you would design a showcase fence for your property. You can use wood skirting of the same species as the decking, or vary the material to create a more captivating look. You can even build in a storage space underneath the deck—a perfect location for lawnmowers, leaf blowers, and other yard equipment.

Tools & Materials

Measuring tape

Speed square

Circular saw

Miter saw

Power drill & bits

3/4" exterior grade lattice panel

1 × 4 pressure treated lumber

2" galvanized finish nails

3" deck screws

Angle and T braces

How To Install Deck Skirting

Determine the length of the skirting sections by measuring the space between posts. Measure on center and mark the posts. At corners, measure from the outer edge of the corner post to the center of the next post in line. Determine the height of the skirting by measuring from the top of a post to grade leaving at least 1" between the skirt bottom and ground.

Cut the top and side frame sections for the skirting from 1 × 4 pressure treated lumber. You can also use cedar or other rot- and insect-resistant material. Snap a chalk line 1" above the bottom of the post, and use a speed square to find the angle of the slope.

Cut the ends of the frame pieces to fit. Assemble the 1 × 4 frame using galvanized angle brackets.

Cut the 3/4" lattice to dimensions of the frame, using a circular saw or jigsaw. Align the lattice on the back of the 1 × 4 frame, and screw the lattice to the frame about every 10".

Install each finished lattice skirting section as soon as it is assembled. Align the edges of the frame with the marks you’ve made on the posts and drill pilot holes through the front of the frame and lattice into the post. Screw the section to the post with 3" galvanized deck screws, using a screw at the top, bottom, and middle of the frame.

Optional: If the length between posts is greater than 8 ft., add stiles in the frame to support extra lattice panels. Cut 1 × 4 stiles to length so that they fit between the top and bottom rails. Screw it in place by using a 4" or larger T brace on the back of the frame. Then nail the lattice in place.

Once the skirting is in place, finish it to match the deck or your house. If you have access to spray equipment, you’ll find that lattice can be painted much faster with it than with a brush or roller.

Gazebos & Pergolas

Deck shade structures—specifically gazebos and pergolas—are always decorative to one degree or another. But they are also quite useful, especially where direct sun beats down on the deck throughout the day. But whether you’re choosing a pergola or a gazebo, the structure is bound to have a big impact on the look of the deck. Picking a shade structure is all about understanding the sun exposure and choosing a design that fits the look and style of your particular deck and home.

Pergolas break up direct sun with an overhead series of rafters and crosspieces that create a gridwork roof. The shade cast by pergolas is not complete, and they are generally used where total shade isn’t the goal. Pergolas can be self-supporting with posts on all sides, or they can be attached to the house on one side by way of a ledger with flashing.

Either type requires a great deal of planning because a completed pergola is generally heavy and prone to tipping if not correctly supported. Pergolas are often built on the extended beams used for the structure of the deck itself. This is usually the best way to craft a deck pergola, because retrofitting an older deck with a new pergola structure means properly supporting it—something that may require an engineer’s input depending on the age of the deck.

Smaller decorative versions are often built into a run of railing just as privacy screen would be. A single beam is mounted across two deck-mounted posts, and topped with perpendicular rafters. Larger pergolas inevitably incorporate lath or lumber pieces running perpendicular to the rafters, providing even more fractured shade and a more detailed design.

Doorway pergolas are also popular, attached on the house side to a ledger, with the rafters supported on a post-and-beam structure on the opposite side. This type of pergola design can create a very tangible visual connection linking the deck to the house, and can help shade the doorway through the hottest part of a day.

Pergolas are often dressed up by using columns instead of bare posts, capitals and feet at the top and bottom of the supports, and decorative beam and rafter end cuts that range from simple bevels to more intricate patterns cut with a jigsaw.

A pergola mounted over a doorway adds impressive elegance to both the deck and home.

Build a screened gazebo for an outdoor room that provides an insect-free place to dine or relax on the deck.

Gazebos are significant deck additions that are rarely retrofitted because of the structural support the construction requires. They are usually planned as an original part of the deck, and range in complexity from a simple peaked roof supported on posts, to a nearly complete outdoor room, fully framed and ventilated, with a working door and windows.

The gazebo design you choose should depend on how you are going to use the structure. If you just need a shaded place for swimmers to rest when they come out of the pool on a hot day, a simple structure will suffice. If you envision an outdoor dining space with protection from insects, consider a gazebo with walls and screening—and possibly a door.

Gazebos, like pergolas, can be styled to suit any type of deck. Not only can the roof be shingled in a number of different materials, you can also add another tier for a more elaborate look. The ends of the roof rafters can be cut to decorative patterns, and railing styles can be replicated to serve as half-height walls around the perimeter of the gazebo. Gazebos are also commonly painted to match or complement the siding on the house.

Like pergolas, gazebos can be embellished with plants trained up the posts and other decorative items. The gazebo itself can be wired for lights, to provide a wonderful nook for enjoying the deck at night.

Several companies offer complete gazebo and pergola kits, with pieces manufactured to your specifications. These not only simplify the prep work you need to do in building the structure, they also come with detailed assembly instructions and tech support to ensure that construction does not become a DIY nightmare.

Whether you’re building a modest pergola or constructing a full-scale walled gazebo, you’ll need to consult closely with your local building department. Gazebos especially can be regulated not only by the codes that govern decks, but may also be subject to codes regarding independent structures.