SELECTING TACKLE
Abasic fishing outfit has four components: a pole (or rod/reel), line, a terminal rig (hooks, sinkers, floats), and some type of bait – live or artificial. Various combinations of these components can be used to catch any of the species described in Chapter 2. The trick, however, comes in selecting the right combination for the type and size fish you’re targeting, with the fishing method and bait you plan to use.
Confusing? Visit a tackle or sporting goods store, and you’ll find a huge variety of poles, rods, reels, lines, rigs, etc. Knowing what to buy and how to match different components can be intimidating. However, making good choices is easy if you understand the differences in these tackle items and the purposes for which they were designed. This chapter will explain these differences and provide information you need to make wise tackle selections. Chapter 6 will explain basic rigs and how to tie them, and Chapter 7 will cover baits.
A good way to think about tackle is “fishing tools.” Various tackle items have specific purposes. You wouldn’t choose a hammer to saw a board in two and you shouldn’t select a heavy bass outfit to go after bluegills or trout. Instead, you must learn to match the right “tool” to the “job” you wish to do. Anglers who do this will be much more effective—and have more fun—than others who pick the wrong “tools.”
A long pole is a super-effective “fishing tool” for catching panfish. Most commercial poles (like the one shown at left) have line holders and guides, while old-fashioned cane poles are rigged by tying a fixed length of line to the tip.
COMPONENT #1: THE POLE OR ROD
When I was growing up, I’d go fishing with my dad and he would cut wild cane off the riverbank and rig them for our poles. They worked very well on the panfish we sought.
However, over the years I became more sophisticated in my tackle needs and fishing techniques. Veteran anglers usually own several outfits—casting, spinning, and fly rods in a variety of actions and lengths—that match a range of species and techniques for catching them. Again, these are “tools” for different types of fishing methods.
Still, a beginner should start with one multipurpose fishing rod/reel combo that can be used for several situations. As you get more involved in fishing you’ll probably want more specialized tackle. But when you’re getting started, you don’t have to—and shouldn’t—spend a small fortune on tackle. Your first outfit can be simple and inexpensive, yet versatile enough to catch many different species of fish.
Spinning tackle is great for casting small lures or baits for panfish. A spinning reel mounts beneath the rod on a straight handle. These reels have an exposed spool and a revolving bail that spins around as the handle is turned, thereby wrapping line around the spool.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN POLES AND RODS
Mechanically speaking, a fishing pole or rod is a lever that serves as an extension of the fisherman’s arm. With either, you get more length and leverage for presenting a bait, setting the hook, and battling and landing a fish once it’s hooked.
Poles are longer than rods. The line is fixed to the end of a pole, and the bait is presented by swinging the line out. Poles aren’t meant for casting. Conversely, rods are shorter than poles and a rod is normally fitted with a reel that holds line for casting a bait out away from the angler.
Therefore, how you fish determines whether you need a pole or a rod. If you’re going after bluegills or crappies close to the bank or shoreline, a pole might be the best choice. But if you’re trying for bass away from shore, or if you’re fishing in deep water for catfish or walleyes, you need a rod and reel so you can get extra casting distance or depth.
Rods/reels are far more versatile than poles because of their “reach.” They can be used in many more fishing situations. Also, rods can substitute for poles in some close-in fishing situations. This is why today, probably 90 percent of all fishing is done with rods and reels.
POLES
Poles come in three main materials: natural cane, fiberglass, and graphite. They are sold in various lengths, typically from 8 feet to 16 feet—or longer! Some poles are stiff and strong (heavy action) for catfish and other large fish. Other poles are limber (light action) for catching crappies, bluegills, and other small panfish.
Cane poles are simplest and least expensive: less than $10. However, fiberglass and graphite poles are more durable and sensitive to delicate bites. They offer more features too. Many fiberglass or graphite poles are collapsible, making them easy to transport. These poles might cost anywhere from $15 for the simplest fiberglass model to close to $100 for a sensitive graphite collapsible pole.
Some poles come with a line holder, which allows an angler to change the length of line he’s using—let some out or take some up. One type of line holder is a simple reel that mounts on the pole’s butt. Another type is a metal bracket around which excess line is wrapped. A pole with a line holder usually has guides, or the line is run through the middle of a hollow pole and out a hole in the tip. In either case, the reel or line holder on a pole is meant simply for adjusting line length, not casting.
This travel spinning rod separates into several short sections for easy packing.
Buying a rod is more complicated than buying a pole, since there are many more factors to consider. Rods come in different designs (casting, spinning), materials, lengths, actions, and handle and guide components. They are sold in a broad range of prices, from inexpensive to very expensive. All these variables can confound a fisherman shopping for his first outfit.
A pistol grip casting rod, a standard grip casting rod, and a fly rod.
However, there is one simple way to avoid making a bad decision: seek the advice of an experienced angler. Find someone to help you make a good choice. This might be the salesman in an outdoor equipment store or tackle department. Tell him what type of fishing you want to do—species, methods, locations (if you know them)—and he should be able to outfit you. If he can’t, find someone who can.
ROD FEATURES
Following are brief looks at the different features of fishing rods. Having a basic understanding of them will help you select the rod that best suits your needs.
ROD TYPE
Rods are designed to match different types of reels. There are four basic types of reels: baitcasting, spinning, spincast, and fly. Casting rods are designed for use with baitcasting or spincast reels. Spinning rods are used with spinning reels, and fly rods are designed for use with fly reels. Each type rod has its special uses and advantages and disadvantages.
Deciding whether you need a casting, spinning, or fly-fishing outfit is the first decision when buying tackle. The next section in this chapter explains the different types of rod-and-reel combinations and the fishing methods to which each is best suited.
LENGTH
Most fishing rods measure five to seven feet long, though highly specialized rods might be shorter or longer. Long rods offer more leverage. They can generally cast farther, but they are harder to cast accurately. Also, they might be awkward to use, especially for beginners. Short rods offer less leverage and casting distance, but they are more accurate for close-in casting such as under overhanging branches or brush.
Spinning and baitcasting rods are available with a wide range of handle styles and materials.
ACTION
“Action” refers to a rod’s stiffness (strength) and how this stiffness is built into the design of the rod. A rod’s action has a direct effect on the size of baits a rod can cast effectively and the size of fish it can handle. Standard rod actions are: ultralight, light, medium-light, medium, medium-heavy, and heavy. A rod’s action is usually printed on the rod just above the handle. (This printed material usually also lists recommended line sizes and lure weights for the rod.)
Ultralight rods are very limber. They are best for casting light baits (for example, 1⁄32 ounce) for bluegills, trout, perch, and other small fish. Heavy-action rods are extremely stiff and powerful. They are best for casting heavy baits ( half ounce and above) and catching such fish as trophy bass, stripers, and big catfish. The stiffer the rod (i.e., the “heavier its action”), the more difficult it is to cast light, small baits. On the other hand, the lighter a rod’s action, the less well-suited it is for casting heavy baits. It is crucial to match rod action, line size, and bait size for maximum performance.
MIDWEIGHT RODS
Light, medium-light, and medium are the most versatile and usually the best choice for beginning fishermen. With a six-foot medium-light rod, you can land everything from bass and catfish to walleyes, white bass, crappies, pike, and other species. You need a heavy-action rod only when going after muskies, trophy pike, stripers, or the biggest bass in the thickest cover.
ONE-PIECE/MULTI-PIECE
Most rods are constructed in one long piece. However, other rods are made in two or more pieces that can be joined. One-piece rods are stronger and more sensitive, though multi-piece rods provide adequate strength and sensitivity for most fishing situations. The main advantage of a multi-piece rod is convenience in storing and transporting. It can be “broken down” and kept on a closet shelf or in a car’s trunk.
MATERIALS
Most modern fishing rods are made from fiberglass, graphite, or a combination of these two materials. Fiberglass rods are flexible, yet durable. They are also less expensive than graphite rods. Their drawback is that fiberglass rods weigh more. Also, fiberglass rods are less sensitive to light bites than graphite rods. Conversely, graphite rods are lighter and more sensitive. Their drawbacks are higher cost and brittleness. A graphite rod that is mishandled will break easily, usually at the tip.
When shopping for a graphite rod, remember that you get what you pay for. Graphite rods run from around $25 to a few hundred dollars each. What’s the difference? Some graphite material is stronger, lighter, and more sensitive to touch than others. High-end rods are extremely light, strong, and sensitive, and their higher cost reflects these qualities.
Perhaps the best value in a beginning outfit is a low to mid-priced graphite rod or a good quality fiberglass rod for less than $100. Either type of rod will offer great service at a reasonable price.
Spincast reels are also called “push-button” reels. These reels have a closed hood over the line spool, and line plays out through the hole in the center of the hood.
Rod handles come in a range of designs and materials. This is mostly a matter of preference—what feels best to the user. Some anglers like straight handles; others prefer a pistol-grip handle. Many rods have long handles (a foot or more) that facilitate two-hand casting and extra support (hook it under your armpit) when fighting a big fish. Materials vary from cork (the best option, in my opinion) to plastic or foam. Pistol-grip handles typically are preferred for more accurate casting, but they’re a bit harder on the rod hand when fighting heavier fish.
My advice is this: if it feels okay, it is okay. If a rod handle seems comfortable in the tackle store, it will be likewise on the water.
CASTING, SPINNING, OR FLY TACKLE
When shopping for a new outfit, should you choose casting, spinning, or fly tackle? This depends on how you plan to fish (bait size, line size, etc.) and the type and size of fish you’ll target.
Round Bait-casting
Fly
Spinning
Low Profile Baitcasting
Spincast
Let’s start with casting tackle. Again, casting rods match up with baitcasting and spincast reels. These reels mount in the reel seat on top of the rod in front of the handle.
Baitcasting reels are also called “revolving-spool reels.” When a bait is cast out, its weight pulls line off a baitcasting reel’s exposed spool. Thumb pressure on the exposed spool is used to slow the bait and stop the cast at the desired distance.
Spincast reels, also called “push-button reels,” have a spool that is enclosed inside a hood that covers the front of the reel. Line plays out through a small hole in front of the hood. To make a cast, an angler first pushes and holds the thumb button down. He makes his backcast, then releases the button during the forward motion. When the button is released, the line plays out smoothly, then the user might “feather” the thumb button again to stop the cast where he wants the lure or bait to land.
Baitcasting reels are used for bigger lures/baits and heavy-duty fishing. When a bait is cast out, its weight pulls line off a baitcasting reel’s exposed spool. The angler applies thumb pressure on the open spool to slow the bait and stop the cast at the desired distance.
Casting rods matched with baitcasting reels typically are stronger than spinning outfits, and they are used with heavier line and baits to fish for bigger fish. Also, baitcasting outfits are the most accurate type of casting tackle.
Spinning reels, also known as “open-face reels,” hang under the rod on a straight handle. These reels have an exposed spool and a revolving “bail” that rotates as the handle is turned, thereby wrapping line onto the spool. For casting, the angler catches and holds the line with the forefinger of the hand holding the rod, trips the bail out of the way with the off hand, and releases the line while bringing the rod forward. The line coils off the spool with almost no resistance. This allows anglers to use spinning tackle to cast very small baits or lures.
Spinning tackle is routinely used by anglers who go after smaller panfish such as bluegills, small bass, crappies, trout, walleyes, etc. Also, larger spinning outfits can be used interchangeably with casting tackle to fish for bigger fish.
Fly rods and reels are the epitome of specialty fishing. Fly-fishing tackle is used to cast small dry flies, artificial nymphs, streamers (wet flies), popping bugs, and other baits that mimic insects, small larvae, etc. These flies and bugs weigh next to nothing so it’s impossible to cast them with casting or spinning tackle. In fact, in fly casting, the angler uses the weight of the line (instead of the lure) to achieve casting distance. He “false casts” (whips the rod back and forth over his shoulder) while letting out more line through the rod’s guides. When he has enough line out to reach his target, he completes his cast by driving forward with the rod and allowing the line to settle to the water. The fly or bug is hitchhiking on the end of the line on a clear, thin “tippet” of monofilament or fluorocarbon.
Fly fishing will frequently take fish when casting and spinning techniques are doomed to failure. This is because fly fishing allows anglers to “match the hatch” when fish are feeding on tiny insects and larvae. However, fly fishing is difficult to learn, and beginning anglers are advised to master the basics of casting and spinning before they progress into fly fishing.
FISHING LINE
Fishing line is the actual link between angler and fish and it’s not something to take lightly. Anglers must choose the right line for their particular tackle and method and they must know how to care for their line so it will last longer.
There are three basic types of lines available to anglers: monofilament, fluorocarbon, and braided “superlines.” Monofilament is extruded nylon line and a good choice for many different situations. It comes in a wide range of breakage strengths, called “pound test.” (For instance, 6-pound-test line is said to break when put under 6 pounds of pressure.) Monofilament lines have some stretch. They are very sensitive in terms of feel. They are resistant to abrasion. They are also relatively inexpensive. One hint: don’t scrimp when buying monofilament line. Buy premium quality line, not the bargain-basement variety. An extra dollar or two spent on premium monofilament line is a good investment for successful fishing!
Fluorocarbon line looks like monofilament, but it has some different properties. Fluorocarbon line doesn’t have much stretch to it, which can be an advantage when attempting to hook a fish at the end of a long cast. Fluorocarbon also is more abrasion-resistant, and slightly smaller in diameter than monofilament of the same breaking strength. On the minus side, fluorocarbon sinks, which makes it a bad choice to use when fishing topwater lures. It’s also more expensive than monofilament.
Superlines, or braids, are many thin gel-spun polyethylene fibers woven together. Some superlines are “fused” (the braided fibers are welded together). Other superlines are “non-fused,” but they all have similar qualities. Braided lines are much stronger than equivalent diameter sizes in monofilament. For instance, 10-pound-test braid is roughly the same diameter as 4-pound-test monofilament. Superlines have almost no stretch and can haul a big fish out of heavy cover quickly. They are also very limp and extremely sensitive in feel. Their smaller diameter allows for longer casts. Diving baits run deeper on braid than on monofilament.
The combination of rod, reel and line should be “balanced” to provide maximum performance. This means that a light-action rod should be matched with a light-action reel and small line to cast smaller lures/baits. Conversely, a heavy-action rod should be mated with a heavy reel and line.
Superlines’ main drawback is their cost—significantly higher than monofilament. Most beginning anglers start out fishing with monofilament because it’s less expensive and easier to handle.
Monofilament or fluorocarbon line comes in a variety of colors. Clear, green, and fluorescent blue are the most popular shades. A good rule-of-thumb is to match line color to water color: clear line in clear water; green in slightly stained water; and fluorescent blue in dingy water.
Also, fluorescent blue is a good choice when anglers need to watch their line to detect subtle bites. Slight twitches that signal bites are much easier to spot in fluorescent blue line than in clear or green.
Many fishing experts swear that fish turn away from line that is too visible. Others believe that line visibility doesn’t make any difference. (Some anglers use bright yellow or orange line in clear water and they still catch fish!) Nobody knows who’s right, but why take a chance? Unless I’m using a technique where I need to watch for line movement, I follow the recommendations given above.
Which size line is best? Several factors go into this answer. First, tackle must be “balanced” (see next section). You should use light line with light tackle and heavier line with heavy tackle. Again, most rods list recommended line sizes in the “fine print” above the handle.
As a general rule, 4- to 8-pound-test line is best for panfish such as bluegills, crappies, and walleyes. For average-size bass, catfish, pike, and similar-sized species, use 8- to 12-pound test. For the biggest of these species, or when fishing in heavy weeds or snags, 15- to 25-pound-test line might be appropriate.
Many beginning anglers buy combo outfits where the rod, reel and line come packaged together. Then the line choice decision is already made for you. Most combo outfits come with line that is in the 8- to 12-pound-test range.
Braid or superline is a different story. Because it is much smaller in diameter relative to its strength, 20- to 50-pound-test might be used on baitcasting or spinning gear for a variety of presentations. In clear-water conditions, it’s best to use a length of monofilament or fluorocarbon tied on to the end for a leader.
THE CONCEPT OF BALANCED TACKLE
One of the most important things to remember in buying tackle is to “balance” all the components of the outfit. Balanced tackle casts and retrieves lures/baits better and plays fish more efficiently than tackle that is unbalanced.
Some reels are large, sturdy, and a good match for a heavy-action rod. Other reels are small and light, and these should be mated with light-action rods. This is true of baitcasting, spincast, and spinning tackle. Remember to match heavy with heavy and light with light.
The same concept applies to line. Heavy-action outfits work best with line that’s 15-pound test or heavier. Medium-action tackle matches well with line in the 10- to 15-pound-test range. Light-action tackle should be spooled with 4- to 8-pound test. Ultralight tackle works best with 2- to 6-pound-test line. (These line weights pertain to monofilament or fluorocarbon line. If a superline is preferred, select a line with a diameter that corresponds to the appropriate pound test size. In other words, 30-pound-test superline might have the same diameter as 12-pound-test monofilament. This information is normally given on the line package.)
The final component in balancing tackle is the lure or bait. For instance, it’s practical to cast a 1⁄16-ounce lure on an ultralight outfit spooled with 4-pound-test monofilament. Conversely, it’s impossible to cast a 1⁄16-ounce lure on heavy-action tackle. The lure isn’t heavy enough to pull line off the reel. Use light-action tackle to cast lightweight lures (up to ⅛ ounce), and heavy-action tackle to cast heavy lures (½ ounce or heavier). There is some room for overlap in the intermediate tackle actions and lure weights.
Monofilament fishing line is offered in various colors and proprietary polymer formulas. Fluorocarbon lines are both flexible and strong.
Again, seek the advice of an experienced salesman in a fishing tackle store or from a fishing friend. This should ensure making good tackle choices. If your tackle isn’t balanced, you will be handicapped from the start!
ADDING LINE ONTO A REEL
Spooling line onto a reel must be done correctly. Improper spooling can lead to backlashes, line twist and snarls, loss of casting distance, and other nuisances.
To spool line onto a baitcasting reel, run the line through the tip guide, then through all rod guides to the reel. Run the line through the reel’s level wind (small guide which feeds line on and off the reel spool). Loop the line around the reel spool and tie it on with a line end knot (see Chapter 6). Snug the line tightly to the spool, and use clippers to clip the tag end close to the knot. Then have a friend hold the line in front of the rod tip, and run a pencil through the line spool so it will rotate freely. Use the reel handle to crank line onto the reel. Hold the rod tip up and keep slight pressure on the line so it goes on the reel spool uniformly. Add line to within a quarter-inch of the top of the spool or to the level indicated in the reel instructions.
With a spincast reel, again run the line through the rod guides down to the reel. Unscrew the reel hood, poke the line through the hole in the center of the hood, tie it around the reel spool with a line end knot, and replace the hood. Then reel on line until it is ⅛-inch from the outside edge of the spool. (This requires a little guesswork, and you’ll have to unscrew the hook to check how much line you’ve actually added.)
With a spinning reel, run the line through the rod guides down to the reel. Open the bail (flip it down), tie the line around the reel spool with a line-end knot, and close the bail (flip it back up). Next, lay the filler spool on the floor so line will coil off in the same direction the reel bail turns when you crank the handle. With a right-hand reel, the bail will turn clockwise, so lay the filler spool on the side that allows line to come off clockwise. This prevents line twist and snarls. Add line to within a quarter-inch of the edge of the reel spool or to the level indicated in the reel instructions.
Braiding technology and improved extrusion techniques have allowed the introduction of “superlines” that are both thinner and stronger than monofilament.
TYING LINE ONTO A POLE
Poles are easy to rig with line. If a pole has a reel or line keeper, simply pull out line and run it through the guides or center of the pole and out the tip. Adjust the line length as desired.
Using fresh, good-quality line is an important key to angling success. When you’re fighting a fish is no time to worry about your line breaking.
If the pole doesn’t have a reel or line keeper, tie the line onto the pole eighteen inches down from the tip. Then wrap line around the pole candy-cane style up to the tip, and tie it again. This wrapping provides extra support and strength to the pole tip. Then adjust the line to whatever length line is desired, and clip it off. Usually, the line should be approximately the same length as the pole, or slightly shorter.
TAKING CARE OF FISHING LINE
It’s important to maintain fishing line in the best possible condition so it will keep its strength and provide top service.
Monofilament or fluorocarbon lines are very hardy and dependable, but excessive heat and direct sunlight might weaken them. Don’t leave line in sunlight for long time periods when it’s not being used. This is true for line on reels and for filler spools.
Avoid storing monofilament or fluorocarbon line in a hot garage, attic, or boat locker. The ideal place to store fishing rods and reels and filler spools is in a cool room or closet.
Don’t allow the line to come in contact with gasoline, oil, sunscreen, or other chemical products. Some products won’t have any effect on monofilament or fluorocarbon, but others will weaken them or cause them to become brittle. Don’t take a chance!
Fluorocarbon or monofilament line that sits unused on a reel for a long time will develop “memory,” which causes the line to come off in coils or loops like a slinky. This cuts down on casting distance and sensitivity. To solve this problem, remove the line spool from the reel before going fishing and soak it a few hours in a bowl of warm water. There are also silicone-based sprays available at tackle stores that work.
Even with the best of care, monofilament or fluorocarbon will age, and it’s a good idea to replace line periodically. Two changes a year will be sufficient for most anglers—at the beginning and middle of the fishing season. New line is cheap insurance against breakage when you’re fighting a trophy fish!
Last, it’s important to check monofilament or fluorocarbon for nicks and abrasions close to the bait or lure. “Mono” or fluorocarbon can become battle-damaged when playing a fish or when rubbing against rocks, brush, etc. Check your line every few minutes by running it between your thumb and forefinger. If you feel a rough spot, cut off the bait, clip off the line above the rough spot, then retie the bait. It’s much better to sacrifice a couple of feet of line than to suffer a break-off when you’re fighting a big fish.
Superline is hardier, and it doesn’t need as much attention. Still, here are three tips for keeping superline in the best possible shape. First, keep it out of direct sunlight, which can fade superline’s color. Second, if fishing in muddy or algae-filled water, rinse superline with clear water after use. Braid that’s not rinsed will develop a bad odor due to bacteria trapped inside the braided line. And third, if fraying is evident, clip off the frayed section and retie. Superline won’t weaken like monofilament or fluorocarbon, but bad frays still should be eliminated.
SPOOL CAPACITY
SPOOLING LINE
SUMMARY ON RODS, REELS, LINE
As stated earlier, as a beginning angler you should start out with one or two outfits. As you gain experience, you might add other rod-and-reel combos to match special fishing methods you will learn. But at first, you should purchase a middle-of-the-road outfit that’s suitable for a range of fish species and techniques.
Here is my recommendation: start with a six-foot medium-action rod made of fiberglass or graphite. Match this with a spincast reel spooled with 10-pound-test monofilament. Expect to pay between $25 and $50 for a good rod-and-reel combo.
Then, if you can afford a second outfit, buy a six-foot light-action spinning rod and reel with 6- or 8-pound-test monofilament line. This outfit will cost approximately the same price. With these two outfits, you will be equipped to go after everything from medium-sized gamefish to the smallest bluegills and perch.
As you progress in this sport you will increase your skill and develop a need for more specialized tackle. But when starting out it’s best to keep your fishing tools simple (and inexpensive!). You can’t run before you walk and you don’t need sophisticated tackle until you master the basics.
Ethics & Etiquette
License and Limit
Always purchase required fishing licenses. Funds from license sales and taxes on fishing tackle are used by state and federal fishery managers to maintain and improve fishing. Learn the creel and length limits where you fish. Never take more fish or smaller fish than you’re supposed to.