When our first set of twins had their second birthday we gave them a Wendy house that we designed and built for them in our garden. We had looked at other Wendy houses and came up with our own ideas of what we wanted, which developed into a large-scale family project. It took six months and was ready in time for their birthday party, which was themed around it, right down to the cake! Everyone got involved during the project, even the grandparents helped to paint and make the curtains. Although the children have had countless hours of fun using the Wendy house, the true gift for us turned out to be the time and effort in building it. Decorating the Wendy house was just as much fun and subsequent birthday parties have seen various improvements to the decor and fittings.
This Wendy house creates a stylish and roomy space in your garden for everyone to enjoy. The large windows can be opened fully to bring in fresh air, the two skylights allow for plenty of natural light during the day and the raised base ensures the flooring remains free from damp. The high-pitched roof and wide floor dimensions create plenty of room that you can fill with toys and children's furniture. There are two skylights in the roof and the interior allows for future modifications, such as stairs and a landing area. The wooden roof is waterproofed with bitumen and the exterior wall covering is tongue-and-groove stacked horizontally and cut out for the door and windows. The base is raised above the ground and is mounted on hardwood stakes with stairs leading up to the balcony in the front. The interior frame consists of joists joined together, against which the side walls and roof are mounted. We also installed an electrical plug point, lighting, window fixtures and a sliding bolt on the door. See also pages 8 and 9 for more information on the Wendy house.
‘Welcome to my Wendy house Grandpa, look at the curtains Nana made!’ Also note the small bookcase made in the earlier chapter (see pages 42–49).
Family fun factor
Project information
| Overall dimensions | 3.55m wide x 3.58m long x 3.10m high |
| Number of parts | About 450 (excluding fastenings) |
| Special equipment | 10-pound hammer, circular saw, jigsaw, chain saw, level |
| Techniques | Decking, tongue-and-groove cladding, waterproofing, half-lap joint (see page 23), balcony railings, window and door hanging, external household electrics, window and door fixtures and fittings |
| Difficulty | Very hard |
| Duration | 24 full days |
WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY NEXT TIME
Notes on the cutting and materials list
PREPARE THE AREA AND INSTALL THE MOUNTING STAKES
1 Choose a section of the garden where you would like to build the Wendy house and clear it of all major plants. It should be an area that receives enough sunlight during the day so it is not damp and dark, but not too much direct sun the whole day.
TIP: You will also need sufficient space around this area to work during the project and you must also consider any large trees that may obstruct the opening space of windows (G) or the use of ladders to get access to the top of the roof (L).
2 Cut spikes on the ends of the hardwood stakes (D.4 x 9). I mounted each stake on a trestle, as shown in the photograph, and used a chainsaw to cut shavings from the end until it was sufficiently sharpened.
TIP: The sharper the spikes, the easier it will be to drive them into the ground and ensure a firm base for the Wendy house.
A sturdy base is vital and the mounting stakes must be driven deeply as the completed Wendy house will be a very heavy structure.
3 Drive in the four corner stakes (D.4 x 4) as demonstrated by my son James, although you will need to use a slightly larger hammer than the one he is using. The 10-pound double-face sledge hammer that I used is visible in the photo under step 1. It is important to be accurate with this step as the outer joists (D.1) of the base (D) will rest on the top of these stakes (D.4), so they must be in the correct position and all the tops must be in the same horizontal plane. The best way of achieving a level plane is to drive the stakes (D.4) until 0,7m is protruding, then level down with a chainsaw until all four corners are at equal height.
TIP: Use one of the joists and a spirit level to verify and adjust the plane of the tops of the outer stakes (D.4 x 4) as required. When mounting the base you will also need thin wedges to further adjust he height of the four corners.
4 Position the ends of the four outer joists (D.1 x 2, D.3 x 2) on the tops of the stakes and use a power drill with long cut screws to affix with butt joints, but do not fasten into the stakes yet. Use scrap wood lengths to hold the 90 degrees in the four corners, as shown in the photograph; this will prevent these from moving out of position. Mount the four inner joists (D.3 x 4) running front to back at even spacing and fasten with butt joints, using a power drill to drive in long cut screws.
5 With the base frame in place, mark the position of the midpoints in the four outer joists (D.1 x 2, D.3 x 2), move the base (D) out of the way and drive in the stakes at these positions. Do the same for the centre stake and join the transverse support joist (D.2) by means of half-lap joints to the previously installed joists (D.3 x 4), running front to back.
6 Stack the decking planks (E.1) towards the back of the completed base (D) in preparation for mounting them. Start at the front – use large quick grip clamps, a power drill and large cut screws to clamp and screw down the first one with a lip overlapping the forward edge (this will be used at the end to position the steps leading up the balcony). Consecutively clamp down and screw in each decking plank until the base (D) is fully covered with decking planks (E.1 x 31).
TIP: Ensure the screws are countersunk at least 1,5cm below the surface, which will allow for levelling of the deck (E) later on.
Top view of base (without decking installed)
7 Once the decking (E) is finished, use an electric planer to level the surface and then finish it off with a belt sander. If the decking screws are not sufficiently countersunk they will damage the planer and sander. As shown in the photograph, my son and daughter helped me by checking and tightening all the large cut screws.
TIP: Also mark the required straight edges at the right and left sides of the deck (E) and use a circular saw to finish these off accurately.
MAKE AND ASSEMBLE THE INTERNAL FRAME
8 Make the front and back frames (I.3 x 4, I.2 x 4), as shown in the photograph, using butt joints and long cut screws fastened with a power drill. Once again maintain the 90 degrees using scrap pieces across the corners, as shown in the frame resting against the wall.
9The design includes 45-degree braces, as shown in the frame resting on the ground (see photograph, step 8) and once these are fastened in place, the scrap wood can be removed. Position the frames on the deck, one at the back and one at the required position in the front, leaving sufficient space for the balcony, as per the design. Add vertical supports (I.3 x 2) at the midpoint in each frame.
After completing the base, I realised that such a deck in a shady part of the garden could have other uses and we experimented with one option, as shown in the photograph above. Luckily I did not put up the hammock as well, otherwise it might have been permanent, and the Wendy house would never have been finished.
10 Attach the four rafters (I.3 x 4) to form the upside down V-shapes on the front and back frames according to the design, ensuring that the midpoint struts (I.5 x 4) between the rafter (I.3) and the top of each wall frame (I.2) are correctly positioned. Erect the full front and back frames and hold in place with quick grip clamps and spare lengths of wood, as seen resting between the frames and on the front frame on the right-hand side of the photograph. The width of the front and back frames allows for the thickness of the cladding on the sides (B), while the back frame should be positioned so that the protruding ledge of the deck (E) matches the thickness of the cladding.
Door structure
11 Add the front door posts (I.3 x 2) and cut out the base piece between these at the bottom of the front frame. Remove the temporary vertical support. Add the corresponding roof supports between the front and back frames, again using simple butt joints and long cut screws. Link the front apex and the back apex by means of two joists (I.1 x 2) mounted in a V-shape – this is called the ridge beam. The two structural supports between these (I.1 x 2) and the eaves of the roof are called purlins. Add the vertical window supports (J.1 x 8) all round, as well as the vertical supports (J.1 x 2) in the back frame, to complete the main structure (I).
I reached this stage during the rainy season and had to cover the structure with a waterproof tarpaulin every day. Luckily James was helpful and quick up the ladder as Granny kept it steady.
12 Use the tongue-and-groove timber (A.1, B.1, B.2, C.1 and C.2) to build the walls by working from the bottom up and around the window areas, as shown in the left of the photograph. Use short cut screws to mount the cladding to the internal frame and make sure each successive tongue-and-groove length is well seated into position by tapping along its length with a rubber mallet.
TIP: Make sure the front cladding protrudes past the outer sides and also into the window and door spaces, as shown in the photograph, as this will be trimmed square later on with a jigsaw.
13 Complete the wall cladding up to a height that is just below the top horizontal member of the frames, as shown in the bottom left of the photograph. Lift the roof panels (L.1 x 4) up through the inside of the Wendy house and position them on top of the roof, making sure they do not stick out over the front and back. This is done now because it is easier to position them when you have access through the upside down ‘V’ of the front and back roof supports (this portion is called the gable). You will only mount them once all the cladding is complete, but this will require minor repositioning.
14Use a jigsaw to cut off the edges of the tongue-and-groove timber along the edges of the door posts, window frames and all corners. The photograph shows that this step has been completed for the right front window, as well as both sides of the door frame. The edges of the left window and both front wall outer corners have not yet been straight-edged and still show the uneven ends of the mounted tongue-and-groove timbers. As the roof boards (L.1 x 4) have been positioned away from the edge of the sloping front and back roof supports (I.4 x 4), complete the cladding to pitch height, as shown at the top right-hand side of the back wall.
15 Use a jigsaw to cut off the tongue-and-groove panels along the edges of the front and back sloping roof supports (I.4 x 4) and then properly mount the roof boards (L.1) with sufficient overlap in the front. Mount the side supports (J.4 x 4) on each of the skylights, as shown in the skylight on the right of the photograph. Add the top and bottom window rails (J.2, J.3, J.5. J.6) all round, as shown in the window above the door in the photograph. Paint the outside of the walls (A, B and C) with wood primer since these will now be exposed to the weather.
TIP: The skylight and window rails are done after the wall cladding is installed because the full width of a whole number of the tongu-eand-groove timbers will determine the height of the base and the top of the windows.
16The roof panels should be cut and positioned to create the skylights according to the measurements required. As shown in the photograph, ensure there is a lip around the edges of the skylight to house the 10mm polycarbonate roof sheeting. Also shown are the half-round ridges (L.5, L.6), which are mounted over the joints of the roof boards (L.1) to ensure a watertight seal once the bitumen is added.
17Install end supports (L.2, L.3) underneath the eaves on all sides of the roof (L) using quick grip clamps, a power drill and cut screws. The photograph shows the left-hand side eave where the end support (L.2 x 1) is clamped in position and butt joints to the back of the end support (L.3 x 1) already mounted over the front gable.
18 Mount the bargeboard (L.4) as shown being held in place with G-clamps on the right of the photograph. Add a decorative finial to finish off the roof (L).
PAINTING, BALCONY, STEPS AND SKYLIGHTS
19Prime the inside of the Wendy house and paint all surfaces with an exterior paint in the colour of choice. For our Wendy house we used a sky blue paint for accents, such as the balcony (H) and bargeboard (L.4), with plain white for the rest of the walls (A, B, C) and window frames. At this point of the project it was very close to the birthday party deadline so we enlisted the grandparents to help with the painting while I continued with the woodwork. Use dust sheets, as shown in the photograph, to protect the flooring when painting.
20 Install the balcony railing frame (H.1, H.2, H.3) on both sides and then use a custom-made spacer at the top and bottom to position and affix the palings (H.4). Work from the centre outwards, as shown, so that any inaccuracies are furthest from the entrance.
TIP: Calculate the size of the spacer as follows: measure the space in the balcony frame, subtract the number of palings you wish to install, then divide the remaining space by the same number of palings plus 1.
21 Build a simple step construction (F) and mount it underneath the lip of the front decking plank (E x 1) in line with the door frame. Ensure that the base of the front of the steps rests on two bricks that have been partially sunk into the ground to prevent further settling when in use. Complete the painting, waterproof the roof (L.1), varnish the steps (F),the balcony decking and the inside flooring (E).
22 Install the 10mm polycarbonate roof sheeting (T) to complete the skylights, ensuring the seal is sufficiently waterproofed.
TIP: To achieve a perfect seal, layer the inside top surface of the lip of the skylight with trowelable bitumen, then install the polycarbonate sheeting and ensure the edges seat onto the bitumen all around. Add another layer of the bitumen around the edges and seal with flashing tape, as shown in the photograph.
Window design
| Window | Width | Height |
| Front lower | 645mm | 694mm |
| Front upper | 589mm | 630mm |
| Side | 654mm | 694mm |
Front view of balcony
Front view of steps
MAKE THE WINDOWS AND DOOR, AND RESTORE THE GARDEN
23 Construct seven windows (G) for the five window frames using the design and measurements shown in the illustrations. For each, assemble the outer frame first, using butt joints at the corners with long wood screws. Next assemble and fasten the internal frame which consists of one long, vertical bar and two smaller horizontal crosspieces on either side. Ensure that the wood screws holding the window frame together are countersunk at least 1cm to ensure that sanding and planing can be done to correct any ill-fitting sides. Prime and paint the windows before installation.
24 Install a 2mm-thick Perspex sheet (Q.1, Q.2, Q.3) on the inside surface of each window (G) by drilling pilot holes with a power drill and using cut screws, as shown. Hang the windows (G) and check for clearance all around between the window and the frame. Adjust and repaint as needed.
TIP: As shown in the photograph, also make sure there is about 1cm clearance all around between the edge of the Perspex (Q.1, Q.2, Q.3) and the window (G).
25 Ensure that there is at least a 3mm gap all the way around between the window frame and the window (G). Install the windows to swing outwards using two simple hinges for each window. Check that the window is not hindered by trees outside the Wendy house.
TIP: When fastening the hinges to the window frame, start with just the top two screws of each hinge so that you can rotate their position slightly if required. Once the window (G) opens and closes as required, fasten with both bottom screws on each hinge.
26Build the door structure with the required timber (K.1, K.2, K.3). The design of this door can also be adjusted to a barn door style where the top and bottom halves open independently. Ensure that the cut screws are countersunk at least 1cm so that adjustments can be made to ensure the correct fit. The design of the door is called a ‘ledged and braced door’, which features battens and diagonal braces onto which boarding (K.4) is fixed. The two diagonal braces must be positioned so that the upper ends coincide with the same side of the door as the hinges.
27 Use the same tongue-and-groove timber as the Wendy house walls and build up the front of the door (K.4). Tap each successive board into place with a rubber mallet and allow for some overhang on each side, which will be trimmed off using a jigsaw to align the edges with the sides of the door frame.
The photograph above shows the tongue-and-groove timber being fixed to the door structure shown on page 147. Note the overlap on both sides, which is then trimmed off using a jigsaw.
28 Prime and paint the door in a colour of your choice. As with the bargeboards and balcony rail, we used a light blue feature colour for effect.
TIP: Hanging the door (K) will require some assistance unless you have done it before. Rest the base of the door (K) on two wedges inside the door frame and adjust their position until the gap around the top and sides is equal. Mark the positions of the hinges, install them against the door frame, then open them by 90 degrees, position the door (K) with the wedges underneath then fasten the inside edge of the door.
The completed door is primed, painted and ready to be hung. Note that the door should be hung before it is painted as fitting the hinges may require some adjustments to the sides of the door.
29Mark off an area in front of the Wendy house to install paving, add flower boxes and restore the grass if required. This was a fun project for the whole family to get involved in, with jobs for all ages. Neat paving and other decorative touches will complement the front of the Wendy house and make it not only a fun space for young children to enjoy, but also an attractive feature in the garden.
TIP: If you have installed paving along the front, you could extend it into a path leading from the steps of the Wendy house to elsewhere in the garden.
30Have an electrician install a plug point and electrical connections in the Wendy house if interior or exterior lighting is desired. Select and install two outside lights, one above each of the front windows, as well as a fluorescent or other type of interior light.
TIP: The exterior lights were placed above the innermost corner of the front windows and roughly half way up to the roof.
31 Using a power drill and cut screws, install curtain rails (R) using simple bathroom rail brackets (R.1) and dowelling (R.2). The curtain rail (R.2) should be positioned in line with the top rail of the window frame. To hang the curtains, simply remove the rail bracket on one side and thread the loops onto the curtain rail. Install window stays (S) on all the windows (G) so that they can be opened and held safely in position. While also a decorative feature, stays (S) ensure that windows (G) are not left loose as it is easy for children’s fingers to get caught if they blow closed in the wind.
32 Install hooks inside the Wendy house for hanging space and use simple furniture with low surfaces. You can also hang pictures on the walls to suit the interior and décor, as required.
Exterior left side view of completed Wendy house
