SERVES 6 TO 8
One spring day, driving through the rolling, red-soiled, and olive-studded hills east of Jerez de la Frontera, the landscape broken by hilltop pueblos blancos (white towns) huddled around ancient Moorish castles, I stopped at a simple venta (roadside eatery) and had this pork for lunch. The loin had been cooked, chilled, and then very thinly sliced like a cold cut. Served as a first course, the owner brought it out with a small dish of flaky sea salt and an ample bottle of heady local extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle over the top. At home, look in the pantry for inspiration—I like a dollop of pear compote (see page 245) or some sweet-and-sour onions (see page 329). When served with a lovely green salad, Spanish Potato Salad (page 56), or fried potatoes (see page 132), it becomes a full meal.
1. In a large, heavy skillet or sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Generously season the loin with salt and pepper and add to the pan, cooking and turning from time to time, until well-browned, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Carefully pour the wine over the loin and then add 1½> cups/360 ml water to the pan. Add the oregano, pimentón, nutmeg, cloves, and bay leaf and cook uncovered until the loin is still pink in the middle and an instant-read thermometer probed to the center of the loin reads at least 145°F/63°C, 50 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours, until thoroughly chilled.
4. Slice the loin as thinly as possible, like a cold cut. Serve with salt flakes and olive oil to drizzle as desired. Garnish with lemon wedges.
