Grains provide the world’s staple foods. Rice is the main food crop in the hot humid regions of Asia; wheat and barley prefer a temperate climate and do not flourish in very cold or dry, arid places. Rye, oats and buckwheat withstand the cold and are the staples of northern and east European cooking; millet withstands desert conditions and is cultivated in those regions of Africa and Asia. Maize or corn, native to the Americas, has now been adopted all over the world. The Americas have two other native grains that are less well known: the extremely nutritious quinoa that grows at high altitudes in the Andes, and ‘wild rice’, not a rice but another grain, still gathered by the North American Indians but now also grown commercially.
Rice
Choosing
It is important to understand the different types of rice so you can buy the right kind for the food you want to prepare. All good-quality rice looks vibrant and glistens slightly, so do not buy anything that looks dull. Avoid broken grains. Good-quality rice should have a pleasant aroma, be resistant to splitting during cooking and be agreeable to chew. It also needs little salt.
Brown rice
This may be short or long grain, and is rice which has undergone minimal milling and still retains the bran layer. It has a nutty flavour and retains more vitamins, minerals and fibre than white rice. It is always chewy.
White rice
This may be short or long grain, and is rice which has been milled to remove hull and bran, leaving a translucent polished grain. It is easier to digest than brown rice.
Long grain rice
Known as Indica, this is slender, and has a high percentage of amylose starch which keeps the grains separate after cooking. It is grown in China, Iran, India, Thailand and the USA. Most Chinese rice is long grain, but not as dry as basmati, which is difficult to eat with chopsticks. Chinese black rice, a recent arrival on the market, keeps its colour well and has a pleasant, light texture. Long grain rice is used for pilafs and salads, and for rice served on its own as an accompaniment.
Basmati has a fragrant flavour and when cooked is light and dry with separate grains.
Jasmine or fragrant Thai is also aromatic but has a softer texture than basmati.
Medium and short grain rice
Called Japonica, this rice is mostly grown in northern China, Japan, the USA, Italy and Spain. Medium grain rice has a short grain but is not round; short grain is almost round; both are slightly sticky and cling when cooked, because of the amount of amylopectin, another starch, in their composition. These rices absorb up to three times their weight in liquid and the starch which is released gives the dish a creamy texture. Short and medium grain rice are used for croquettes, timbales and puddings.
Bomba from Calasparra in Murcia is the best Spanish variety and is used for paella, baked rice dishes and stews.
Risotto rice The Italians use arborio widely; two other varieties to note are carnaroli which keeps its shape well and is hard to overcook, and vialone nano, with large grains which makes a very creamy risotto.
Red rice In recent years there has been a revival of rice growing in the Camargue in the Rhone delta and a medium grain red rice is now exported. Not as nutty as brown rice, it has a more pronounced flavour than white rice.
Glutinous or sticky rice
Grown in Japan and south-east Asia, this rice is very high in amylopectin. It is usually short grain, although a black long grain variety is now available from Thailand, which stays chewy when cooked and has separate grains. Japanese medium grain rice absorbs less water than some others and is slightly less sticky. In a few regions glutinous rice is eaten on a daily basis, but it is mainly used for snacks and sweets and most notably for sushi. It is also the rice from which rice-based alcohols and wines are made. Although called glutinous, sticky rice is gluten-free like all rices.
Parboiled rice
This is usually long grain rice that has been partly cooked and should be cooked further according to the instructions on the packet. The grains remain moist and separate after cooking.
Instant rice
This is rice that has been cooked and then dried, and need only be rehydrated to eat. Follow the instructions on the packet.
Storing
White rice will keep indefinitely. Brown rice can get infested if it is old or if stored in humid conditions for too long. It should keep for up to 1 year in a cool dry place, and you can freeze it. Cooked rice will keep for up to 3 days tightly covered in the refrigerator.
Quantities
Quantities are difficult to give because rice lovers eat large amounts compared to people who eat it seldom. 500g will soak up 650ml water or more and should feed 4–6 people.
Preparing rice
Long grain and glutinous rice should be washed before cooking, except parboiled rice which is cooked straight from the packet. Many rices are soaked from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the cooking method. Pre-soaked rice needs less water for cooking. Italian and Spanish rice are used dry. See information in the recipes.
Cooking methods
All rice is cooked in water, stock or milk to make it edible. It may also be lightly fried before being simmered or steamed. It is important not to overcook rice; rice cooked longer than necessary softens and splits open. The right amount of water to rice, the cooking time and the intensity of the heat are all important.
Simmering
The simplest way to cook long grain rice is to boil it in lots of water. Wash the rice, bring a large pan of water to the boil and tip in the rice. Stir well to stop the grains sticking to the pan, bring back to the boil and then simmer, uncovered, until the rice is ready. It should retain a slight bite and be tender, not split and mushy. Brown rice will take about 50 minutes to 1 hour, white rice 15–20 minutes. Taste to see if the rice is ready and drain it. Put it into a warm dish and toss with bits of butter or a little olive or sunflower oil. Use forks (wooden ones are best) to toss it, spoons tend to crush the grains.
Steaming
Sometimes called the absorption method of cooking rice, this depends on having the correct proportions of rice and water. The water is absorbed by the time the rice is cooked. Use a heavy-based pan to reduce the risk of the rice sticking to the bottom, and make sure it is big enough. Measure rice and cooking liquid by volume. It doesn’t matter what sort of container you use to measure, but use the same one for rice and cooking liquid. The basic proportions are one measure of rice to two of water, but this may vary slightly according to the age and type of rice, the shape and size of the pan. Put the rice in the pan, cover with cold water, swish it around with your fingers, drain into a sieve and rinse until the water runs clear. Put the rice back in the pan with the correct measure of cold water, bring to the boil and stir once. Reduce the heat to a simmer, stir briefly and cover the pan. Leave for 15–20 minutes for white rice, 50 minutes to 1 hour for brown. Camargue red rice is also cooked by this method, and needs about 40 minutes. When the rice is cooked there will be small steam holes over the surface and all the water will be absorbed. Check the pan towards the end of cooking time. The rice should be tender but still have a slight bite. Because types of rice vary you may need to allow a bit longer, or use a little more or a little less water, as necessary. If you buy the same rice regularly you will soon know just how much liquid it needs. Fluff the rice with wooden forks before serving.
Note
An electric rice cooker cooks by this method, and will cook white, brown and glutinous rice. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions about using it.
Soaked and steamed rice
This is my preferred way of cooking basmati and jasmine rice. Use 1 measure of rice to 1¼ measures of cooking water. Rinse the rice under running water, put it into a bowl, pour over hot water, stir so that the grains don’t clump together and leave to soak for about 30 minutes. Drain it and rinse under the cold tap until the water runs clear. Bring the measured water to the boil, put in the soaked rice, bring the water to the boil again and immediately cover it and transfer to the lowest possible heat. Use a heat diffuser if necessary. White rice will be almost ready in 12–15 minutes; there will be steam holes in the surface. At this point you can drizzle melted butter or oil over the rice if you wish, or leave it plain. Take a clean folded tea towel and put it under the lid, folding up the corners so that it is not in contact with the heat source. Leave the pan on the very low heat for another 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave it undisturbed for at least 5 minutes. It can also be left for up to 15 minutes and will stay hot. Turn the rice out with a wooden fork. It will be light and very dry because the tea towel absorbs any excess moisture.
Japanese rice is always soaked for about 30 minutes, usually in cold water, and then cooked this way.
Microwaving long grain rice
Use 2 measures of water to 1 of rice. Rinse the rice in water until it runs clear. Put the rice in a suitable container and pour over twice the volume of hot water. Add salt. Microwave, uncovered, on full power for 10 minutes for 3 cups (about 500g) rice. Remove the dish from the oven – the contents will still be quite liquid – and add a little oil. Now cover the dish and cook for a further 2½–3 minutes. For a smaller amount of rice (1 cup, about 175g), allow about 4 minutes for the first cooking and 2–2½ for the second.
Fluff with a fork before serving.
Cooking glutinous rice
Glutinous rice is always soaked, often for several hours, and then steamed over boiling water. In south-east Asia it is put in a woven bamboo basket over the pan. It takes about 20 minutes. Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving. Serve it as an accompaniment as you would a non-sticky rice.
Fried rice
Most countries where rice is grown have a repertoire of fried rice dishes. Chicken, pork, ham, prawns, tofu, green beans, mushrooms, carrots, peas, tomatoes, spring onions and eggs are frequent additions. The flavourings vary according to the country: soy sauce in China, fish sauce and lime juice in Thailand, chilli and dried prawn paste in Malaysia and Indonesia, soy sauce and rice wine* in Vietnam. The choice is great, but if you experiment do not be tempted to put more than 3 or 4 ingredients into your rice, and select flavours that complement each other.
Use long grain rice and it must be cold; fried rice does not work successfully with hot rice. The other ingredients are stir-fried first and then the cold rice is added to them. The seasonings are added as you mix together the rice and other foods over low heat, giving time for the rice to warm up and for the flavours to blend.
Thai fried rice
For 3–4
2 tbs sunflower oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped finely
1 small onion, peeled and sliced finely
1 chicken breast, cut in thin strips
125 g small mushrooms, sliced
100g frozen young peas
½ tsp chilli powder
600–700g cooked long grain rice, cold
2 tbs fish sauce (p. 520)
1 tbs soy sauce
1 lime
accompaniments
½ cucumber, cut in half lengthways and sliced
3 tbs chopped coriander
6–8 spring onions
2 limes cut in wedges
Heat a wok and when it is hot add the oil and swirl it around. Stir-fry the garlic and onion for 1 minute. Put in the chicken strips and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, then add the mushrooms, peas and chilli powder. Let them soften. Lower the heat, and add the rice. Mix it with the vegetables, letting it heat through. Season with the fish and soy sauces, taste and adjust amounts if necessary. Squeeze the juice of the lime over the rice and serve with its accompaniments.
Chinese fried rice
For 3–4
2 tbs sunflower oil
3 spring onions, chopped
200g cooked ham, diced
4 eggs, whisked lightly with 1 tbs water
600–700g cooked long grain rice, cold
2 tbs soy sauce
Heat a wok and add the oil when it is hot. Stir-fry the spring onions rapidly and add the ham. Turn it in the oil, then add the eggs, breaking them up as they cook so you have a scrambled effect. Put in the rice, lower the heat and mix it thoroughly with the other ingredients. Keep stirring the rice to make sure it heats through. Stir in the soy sauce, taste and serve.
Pilafs and polos
These are the rice dishes of the Middle East, central Asia and India. Basmati is the best rice to use. The way of cooking the rice varies from region to region, but it is usually soaked and then steamed (p. 179) or fried lightly before the liquid is added. Pilafs are sometimes plain, sometimes simply flavoured with herbs or spices and perhaps a few almonds or pistachios, or the rice may be cooked with vegetables, fish or meat. Some of the most delicious pilafs are made with dried fruits. Stock often replaces water as the cooking liquid.
Malabar spiced pilaf
Pilafs with whole spices are found in many parts of India; this one comes from the Malabar coast, home of cardamom and pepper. Except for the cumin seeds, the spices are not eaten, but if you accidentally chew any of the others, you won’t come to any harm.
For 4–6
500g basmati rice
30ml sunflower oil or clarified butter*
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
8 cardamom pods*
1 stick cinnamon
8 cloves
1 tsp cumin seeds
12 black peppercorns
1 tsp salt
15–30g butter or 1–2 tbs sunflower oil (optional)
Measure the rice, wash it in cold water, drain and rinse until the water runs clear, then soak for 30 minutes or longer. Heat the oil in a heavy pan and fry the onion until golden. Bruise the cardamom pods, break the cinnamon in three and add all the spices to the onion. Fry gently for about 30 seconds until the spices are slightly puffed.
Drain the rice and add it to the pan. Fry for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice becomes translucent, then add 1¼ measures of boiling water for every 1 measure of rice. Season with salt. Stir frequently and bring back to the boil.
Reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan and simmer for 15 minutes. The water will have been absorbed and the surface of the rice will be covered with tiny steam holes. If you wish, add melted butter or oil to the rice now. Fold a tea towel, put it over the pan, replace the lid and fold up the corners of the tea towel over the top. Leave the pan over low heat for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to steam undisturbed for a further 5–10 minutes. Turn the rice out onto a warmed serving dish with a wooden fork, fluffing it as you do so.
Saffron pilaf with lamb and almonds
Pilafs with lamb and spices are found throughout the Middle East and central Asia. They are usually made with a small amount of fresh meat, as here, but you can make a successful pilaf with diced cooked lamb; simply omit the meat from the frying process. The spicing in this pilaf is mild; you could increase the amounts of cinnamon and nutmeg if you wish, but more clove might make it taste harsh.
For 4–6
500g basmati rice
½ tsp saffron threads
2 tbs rose-water (p. 139) or plain water
15g butter
50g slivered almonds
1 onion, peeled and chopped
200g lamb, diced
¼ tsp ground pepper
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
large pinch nutmeg
large pinch ground cloves
salt
1 tbs sunflower oil
about 650ml chicken stock (p. 4)
Measure the rice. For every measure of rice you will need 1¼ measures of chicken stock, in all about 650ml. Wash the rice well in cold water, drain and rinse under running water until the water is clear, then soak in warm water for 1 hour. Crush the saffron and blend it with the rose-water or plain water. Heat the butter in a frying pan and gently fry the almonds until golden.
Put them aside and fry the onion, then add the lamb and spices and fry, stirring from time to time. Add salt to taste.
Drain the rice well. Heat the oil in a large pan, put in half the rice, then the meat and onion on top and cover with another layer of rice. Add the stock and the saffron mixture. Cover the pan with a tea towel and lid, tucking up the ends of the tea towel over the lid. Cook on medium heat until it starts to boil, then turn the heat very low and simmer for 25–30 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed. Scoop the rice onto a warm serving dish and scatter over the almonds.
Lime and cashew nut pilaf
This pilaf from Mysore in southern India is made with cold cooked rice. It works well with lemon juice, too.
For 4–6
3 tbs sunflower oil
½ tsp mustard seeds (p. 76)
2 red chillies
½ tsp turmeric
8–10 curry leaves (p. 257), preferably fresh
pinch of asafoetida*
2 cups cooked basmati or other long grain rice
100ml lime juice
2–3 tbs water, if necessary
salt
4 tbs chopped coriander
60g dry-roasted* cashew nuts, coarsely chopped
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the mustard seeds and whole chillies. The mustard seeds will pop and the chillies will darken. Stir constantly for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the other spices, then add the rice, coating it well with the spiced oil. Pour in the lime juice and if necessary the water or a little more lime juice. How much liquid you need varies with the rice. Season with salt. Cover the pan and steam over low heat (use a heat diffuser if possible) for 5–10 minutes, until the rice is heated through. Leave to rest for 5 minutes, then use a wooden fork to stir through half the coriander and cashews. Put the rice on a warm serving dish and sprinkle over the rest of the nuts and coriander.
Variation
• Use 1 more tbs sunflower oil and add 2 peeled and finely sliced onions to the pan with the turmeric and other spices and fry until the onions are golden before adding the rice.
Iranian polo with herbs
This is a beautiful dish with layers of rice interspersed with layers of herbs and a crust on the bottom of the pan. In Iran, it is the traditional dish to eat at the new year, or Noo Rooz festival in March which marks the beginning of spring. Fresh herbs are best, but Iranian shops sell bags of exceptionally fragrant dried herbs for cooking rice. You will only need 25–30g of dried herbs to flavour 500g rice. Fresh herbs must be dry when they are added to the rice. A salad spinner will drain them well before they are chopped, or wrap them in kitchen paper or a tea towel.
For 4–6
500g basmati rice
salt
100g butter or sunflower oil
3 tbs water
100g dill, finely chopped
100g parsley, finely chopped
100g coriander, finely chopped
100g chives or spring onions, finely chopped
Put the rice into the pan, pour over cold water, swish around and then drain and rinse until the water runs clear. Return it to the pan and soak it for several hours in salted water. Drain it. Add 1 tbs salt to 2½ litres water, bring to the boil and put in the rice, stirring to make sure it does not stick. Boil, uncovered, for 2–3 minutes and test to see whether the rice is almost tender. It should be soft on the outside but still have a firm core in the centre. Drain and rinse the rice in lukewarm water. Put half the butter or oil and 3 tbs water in a non-stick pan if you have one large enough for the rice; otherwise rinse the pan you boiled the rice in and use that. When the butter has melted or the oil is hot, put in a layer of rice, then a third of the mixed herbs. Repeat this layering, making each layer a bit narrower than the one before so that you have a cone-shaped mound in the pan. Finish with a layer of rice. With the handle of a wooden spoon, poke 2 or 3 holes through the cone down to the bottom of the pan to allow the steam to escape. Pour over the rest of the butter or oil.
Cover the pan with a folded tea towel and then the lid, flip the ends of the tea towel up over the lid to keep them away from the heat. Cook on high heat for 3–4 minutes until the rice is steaming, then turn down the heat and steam for 30 minutes. The rice will keep warm for another 20–30 minutes once the heat has been turned off, as long as the cloth and lid are left in place.
To serve, turn the rice gently onto a warm serving dish. Lift out the crust from the bottom of the pan and put it around the rice.
Rice with pulses
Rice and lentils, rice and chick peas, rice and beans, such dishes are found all over the world. They provide simple, cheap and sustaining food.
Mujadara
All the countries of the Middle East have versions of this dish of rice and lentils with onions. The lentils, onions and rice are usually cooked together, but the rice can be cooked separately and stirred into the lentil and onion mixture before serving.
For 6–8
400g brown lentils
200g basmati rice
1 litre water
150ml olive oil
3 large onions, peeled, cut in half and sliced finely
salt
Wash the lentils and rice separately in cold water and rinse them well under running water. Put the lentils in a large pan and cover them with 1 litre boiling water. Simmer for 12–15 minutes until they are almost cooked. Heat the oil and fry the onions. Take out half of them when they are just lightly browned and continue to fry the others until dark brown, but not burned. Add the lightly browned onions and the rice to the lentils and add salt. Stir to mix the ingredients, cover the pan and simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes. The rice should be cooked and the liquid absorbed. If necessary add a little more boiling water; both lentils and rice vary greatly in their capacity to absorb water. Turn the rice and lentils out onto a serving dish and garnish with the darker onions and pour over their oil. Serve hot, warm or cold. A bowl of yogurt is a good accompaniment.
Arroz al horno
This Spanish dish of rice and chick peas is baked in the oven. Spanish rice is medium grain, but if you cannot get Spanish, use an Italian rice rather than a long grain rice. The chick peas are cooked in advance (or you could use canned ones) and then the dish takes only 30 minutes or so to prepare and cook. It is cooked with a whole head of garlic in the centre which flavours the dish beautifully and is mellow to eat.
For 4–6
1 head garlic
80ml olive oil
3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 potatoes, peeled and sliced thinly
1 tsp paprika
salt
120g cooked or canned chick peas (p. 80)
750ml vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
400g rice
Heat the oven to 200°C, 400°F, gas 6. Remove any loose outer skin from the garlic but keep the head intact. Wipe it clean, parboil for 5 minutes and drain. Heat the oil in an ovenproof casserole – in Spain it would be an earthenware casserole – and sauté the tomatoes and potatoes for a few minutes. Season with paprika and salt, then add the chick peas. Heat the stock. Tip the rice into the dish and stir well to mix, then pour over the stock. Push the garlic into the rice and vegetables in the centre of the dish. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2–3 minutes, then transfer the dish to the oven and cook for about 20 minutes. Check that the rice is done and remove the dish from the oven. Separate the cloves of garlic to serve them with the rice and take the dish to the table.
Variations
• In some places, bits of blood sausage or chorizo are added, sometimes raisins plumped in water, elsewhere haricot beans replace the chick peas. Arroz al horno can be interpreted in different ways, but keep, roughly, the same proportions of rice and chick peas or beans and keep the head of garlic.
Rice with vegetables
In those parts of the world where rice is the staple food, it is most frequently accompanied by or cooked with vegetables; meat and fish are reserved for special occasions or just included in tiny quantities as a flavouring. In Europe, vegetable paella from Spain, vegetable risottos from Italy and stuffed vegetables from Greece are among the most imaginative ways of combining rice and vegetables.
Rice baked with herbs and chilli
For 4
1 tbs sunflower oil
4 spring onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3–4 green chillies, seeded and chopped
2 cups cooked long grain rice, cold
large handful of coriander, chopped
200ml soured cream
180g grated Cheddar
Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Lightly grease a shallow ovenproof casserole of 1-litre capacity. Heat the oil in a small frying pan and fry the onions, garlic and chillies for 2–3 minutes. Stir the contents of the pan into the rice. Stir the coriander into the soured cream. Put a layer of rice in the dish, smooth it down and cover with a layer of cream and coriander, then sprinkle over some of the cheese. Repeat the layers, finishing with rice, but keeping some of the cheese back to sprinkle over the top. Bake for 25–30 minutes.
Vegetable paella
The vegetables for this paella can be varied: green beans, broad beans, cauliflower, small artichokes, peas and peppers are those most commonly used. The dish is best made in a paella, the thin two-handled metal pan used for many Spanish rice dishes cooked on the stove. If you don’t have one, use a big frying pan.
For 6
80ml olive oil
200g cauliflower florets
4 small artichokes, cleaned and cut up (p. 102) or 6 artichoke hearts, halved
1 red pepper, cut in squares
100g green beans, cut in 5–6cm lengths
100g broad beans or peas (400g in the shell or use frozen)
3 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
300g Spanish or other short or medium grain rice
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
about 800ml vegetable stock (p. 4)
½ tsp ground saffron
1 tsp paprika
salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat the oil in a 30–40cm paella (see above) or a large frying or sauté pan and fry the cauliflower, artichokes, red pepper, green and broad beans, turning them frequently for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic and cook over moderate heat for a further 5 minutes and bring the stock to the boil in a separate pan. Stir the rice into the vegetables, coating it well with the oil and juices. Pour over the hot stock, season with saffron, paprika, salt and pepper and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes until the rice is done. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving.
Baked rice with spinach and prunes
This Iranian dish looks beautiful and tastes marvellous, the flavours of spinach, prunes and saffron-yogurt rice complementing each other so well. Allow time to soak the rice for 2 hours or longer.
For 4–6
250g basmati rice
125g prunes
30ml sunflower oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
350g spinach
salt and freshly ground pepper
50g butter
2 egg yolks
4 tbs thick yogurt
½ tsp ground saffron
Soak the rice in cold water for at least 2 hours; you can leave it for much longer without it coming to any harm. If the prunes need soaking, do so for the length of time indicated on the packet, then cook them in the soaking water for about 20 minutes, or until soft. Drain them and remove the stones. Ready-to-eat prunes can be used instead.
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until golden. Set aside 10–12 large spinach leaves and add the remainder to the onion. Season and cook for 5 minutes, until the spinach has wilted. Remove the pan from the heat. While the vegetables are cooking, bring a pan of water to the boil and blanch the large spinach leaves for 1 minute. Lift them out of the water carefully and spread on kitchen paper.
Melt the butter and use some to brush generously a 1-litre ring mould or a 20–22cm shallow baking dish or cake tin. Line it with the blanched spinach leaves.
Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Drain the rice, bring 1 litre of salted water to the boil in a large pan. Stir in the rice, bring back to the boil and simmer, uncovered, for 3–4 minutes. Drain and rinse the rice with cold water. Beat the egg yolks with the yogurt and saffron and stir in half the rice. Arrange half of this rice in the mould, smooth it down and lay the prunes over it. Cover them with the remaining yogurt rice. Now make a layer with the spinach and onion mixture and fill the mould with the plain rice. Flatten the surface and pour over the remaining butter. Cover tightly with foil. Bake the rice for 1½ hours. Turn out onto a warmed serving dish.
Rice with seafood
This is a popular combination in many countries, made with short or long grain rice and the locally available seafood. Sometimes seafood and meats such as chicken or ham are used together, as in the internationally renowned Spanish paella, a flamboyant interpretation of the traditional Valencian dish which uses chicken or rabbit, snails and green beans as its principal ingredients, and of course saffron-scented rice. Just as popular within the south-eastern states of America is Louisiana jambalaya.
Jambalayal
Louisiana is renowned for its seafood and rice dishes: oysters, crab, crawfish, shrimps are served up as gumbos and étouffées on top of a dish of rice or as an integral part of a rice dish, as in a jambalaya. The basis of the dish, as with so many Creole and Cajun dishes, is onion, celery and green peppers stewed together. Jambalaya varies according to the cook and what is available, but a mixture of seafood and meat is common.
For 4
2 tbs sunflower oil
200g spicy or smoked sausage, sliced
200g ham, preferably smoked, diced
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 stalks celery, sliced
1 green pepper, seeded and diced
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried oregano
3 spring onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
4 tbs parsley, chopped
600ml fish or chicken stock (p. 6, p. 4)
salt and freshly ground pepper
½ tsp cayenne
200g long grain rice
20 tiger or other large prawns, cooked and peeled
Heat the oil and gently sauté the sausage and ham for 4–5 minutes, then remove the meats and sauté the onion, celery and green pepper. Let them start to brown, then add the dried herbs, spring onion and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then return the meats to the pan and add the tomatoes, half the parsley and the stock. Season with salt if necessary and with black pepper and cayenne.
When the stock comes to the boil stir in the rice. Let it come back to the boil, cover and reduce the heat. Simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden fork, until the rice is done, but still has a slight bite. Add the prawns, stirring them carefully into the mixture, and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes or so until they are heated through. Stir with a wooden fork to fluff the rice and keep the grains separate. Check the seasoning and stir in the rest of the parsley. Serve hot.
Rice with monkfish and prawns
Instead of monkfish you could use another firm fish such as halibut. Use short or medium grain rice, and cook the rice in a paella (p. 187), or in a large frying or sauté pan.
For 4
1 monkfish tail, weighing about 400g
lemon juice
80ml olive oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp paprika
salt
about 1 litre fish stock (p. 6)
400g short or medium grain rice
250g medium uncooked prawns, with or without shells
Remove the bone and filmy skin from the monkfish and cut it into slices 2–3cm thick. Sprinkle it with lemon juice. Heat the oil in a paella or a wide frying pan and fry the pieces of monkfish for 2–3 minutes, turning once to sear the sides. Put the fish aside, add the onion to the pan and fry for 1–2 minutes, then add the tomato and garlic. Season with paprika and salt. Cook for a few minutes and bring the stock to the boil in a separate pan.
Add the rice to the tomato mixture, stir it well and pour over the hot stock. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat, put the slices of monkfish and the prawns on top of the rice and simmer for 10–12 minutes. Turn the fish and the prawns after 6–8 minutes; the prawns should have turned pink on the underside. The rice should still have a slight bite. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving.
Kedgeree
This English dish evolved from khichri, a moghul dish of rice and lentils cooked with spices. It became popular as a breakfast dish in late Victorian times and then turned into a lunch or supper dish. Smoked haddock is my favourite fish for kedgeree, but salmon is good too (it is a useful way of finishing the remains of a large fish) and so are prawns and mussels. Mussel liquor can be used to cook the rice. Do not stint on the proportion of fish to rice.
For 4
500g smoked haddock fillet
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
2 tbs olive oil
1 tsp curry powder
180g long grain rice
60g butter
salt
2 hardboiled eggs, chopped
1 tbs chopped parsley
grated rind of 1 unwaxed lemon
Pour boiling water over the haddock fillet and set aside for 5 minutes, then drain, discard the skin and bones, and flake the fish. Lightly brown the onion in a heavy pan. Stir in the curry powder and then the unwashed rice. Pour over 600ml water and cook steadily, uncovered, for about 15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed and the rice tender. If necessary, add a little more hot water to the pan. Add the fish and butter to the pan, mixing them in carefully with a wooden fork in order not to break the rice. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Turn the kedgeree out onto a warm serving dish, arrange the chopped egg over the top and sprinkle over the parsley and lemon rind. Serve with lemon quarters and mango chutney.
Risotto
Risotto is one of the triumphs of Italian cooking, a creamy dish of rice with each grain whole and separate, al dente. The creaminess comes from the starch released by the rice during cooking, so rice with a high starch content is essential to the success of a risotto. The three short grain Italian rices to choose from are arborio, carnaroli and vialone nano (p. 177).
Risotto has the reputation of being hard to make, but it isn’t – provided some quite simple procedures are followed. Rice is stirred to release its starch. Arborio, which has less starch than the other two, needs constant stirring for the dish to reach the right consistency, whereas carnaroli and vialone nano will become creamy if left to absorb the stock and stirred only right at the beginning and again at the end. If you stir a risotto after the initial stirring, you will have to continue throughout the cooking time. The other important points are to use a heavy-based pan, only a little butter or olive oil, to cook the shallot or onion gently so that it barely colours, and to have the stock hot. You will need roughly twice the volume of stock to rice.
Saffron risotto
This saffron-flavoured risotto is prepared with minimum stirring, see above. Make sure you have twice the volume of liquid to rice; measure both carefully.
For 4
about 800ml vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
100g butter
2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely
400g carnaroli or vialone nano rice
¼–½ tsp saffron threads, ground to a powder
1 glass white wine (optional)
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tbs freshly grated Parmesan
Heat the stock and keep it simmering. Heat half the butter in a heavy pan and gently fry the shallot until golden. Add the rice and stir for 2–3 minutes until it is coated with butter. Steep the powdered saffron in 3 tbs hot stock for 5 minutes. If you are using the wine remember to include it as part of the volume when determining how much liquid to add. Pour the wine and stock over the rice, add the saffron liquid and season with salt and pepper. Stir once gently, cover the pan and simmer for 16–18 minutes. Stir in the rest of the butter and 2 tbs Parmesan cheese. Check the seasoning, stir gently and serve with more Parmesan.
Mushroom risotto
Use some dried porcini and/or morels (p. 143) for this risotto to give it a lovely depth of flavour and use the soaking liquid as part of the stock. This quantity will serve 2 as a main dish or 4 as a first course. The mushroom recipe is made following the method which adds small amounts of water at a time and requires continuous stirring; see above for more information.
For 2–4
10g dried porcini and/ or morels
about 500ml chicken or vegetable stock (p. 4)
2 tbs olive oil or 30g butter
2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely
200g fresh mushrooms
250g risotto rice
1 glass white wine
salt and freshly ground pepper
50g butter
freshly grated Parmesan
Soak the dried fungi in 200ml hot water for 20 minutes, then drain them, reserving the liquid. Chop the fungi and strain the liquid through a muslin-lined sieve (p. 528) to remove any grit. Measure the liquid and use it to replace part of the stock. Heat the stock and the soaking liquid and keep it at a gentle simmer. Heat the oil or butter in a heavy pan and gently sauté the shallots until they soften. Cut the fresh mushrooms into pieces and add them to the pan. Cook until they are soft, then add the rehydrated fungi and the rice. Stir for about 2 minutes to coat the rice in the oil and when the grains are glistening and hot, pour over the wine, stir gently and wait until the wine is absorbed. Season and add a little hot stock, stirring as you do so. When it is absorbed add more, still stirring as you do so. Continue to do this until the rice is tender and creamy but still with a slight bite at the centre; it will take about 18–20 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the butter and 2 tbs grated Parmesan. Cover the pan and let it stand for 3–4 minutes, then serve. Offer more Parmesan with the risotto.
Variation
Asparagus risotto Replace the mushrooms by 400g asparagus. Find the break point of the asparagus (p. 103) and discard the bottoms. Keep the tips intact and cut the stalks into small pieces. Sauté the stalks with the shallots. Stir in the tips during the last 5 minutes of cooking.
Sushi
Sushi is not that difficult to make, with a bit of attention and practice, and it is fun and will impress your friends. It is important to have Japanese sushi rice and rice vinegar. The other thing you need is a pack of dried nori (laver – a type of seaweed) sheets. Some supermarkets and food shops sell the whole kit together. The simplest sushi for a beginner are nori rolls, or nori-maki, in which the rice is wrapped around pieces of very fresh raw or smoked fish or around vegetables such as cucumber, spring onion or avocado and then rolled in a sheet of nori seaweed which holds it all together. To roll the sushi you will need a bamboo sushi mat from a Chinese shop.
Wasabi, which accompanies raw fish dishes, is sometimes known as Japanese horseradish because it is an edible root with a fierce aroma and biting, cleansing taste. Outside Japan it is not found fresh, but can be bought as a powder and as a paste packed in tubes from Japanese shops, delicatessens and some supermarkets.
Thinly sliced, pale pink pickled ginger (gari) is served with sushi as a digestive condiment; it is available from oriental shops, delicatessens and some supermarkets which stock Japanese foods.
Nori rolls (Nori-maki)
For 8–10
For the rice
500g sushi rice
600ml water
5 tbs rice vinegar
1½ tbs sugar
1 tsp salt
Wash the rice well in a sieve, running your fingers through it until the water runs clear; this will take a few minutes. Drain it and put it into a pan with the water, cover and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and leave undisturbed for another 10 minutes. Check the rice; it should be a little harder than normal boiled rice.
While the rice is cooking stir the vinegar, sugar and salt together until dissolved. Once the rice is ready it must be cooled quickly. Spread it in a large shallow bowl using a wooden spatula. Dribble over the vinegar mixture, and with one hand turn the rice with the spatula to blend it in, with the other, fan it with a piece of card or a newspaper to speed up the cooling process. Two people working together can achieve this more easily. Add the vinegar gradually, you may not need it all. When the rice has cooled to room temperature it should have a sheen and the grains should remain separate.
For the nori rolls
1 medium avocado
½ cucumber
180g smoked salmon
1 pack (10 sheets) sushi nori (see above)
wasabi paste
Peel the avocado and cut the flesh into thin strips. Squeeze a little lemon juice over it to prevent it discolouring. Split the half cucumber lengthways, remove the seeds and cut the flesh into thin strips. Cut the salmon into thin strips, too.
If you can buy toasted nori, that is the most convenient. Plain, black nori should be toasted by passing it quickly over a gas flame until it turns bright green and is crisp. Place the nori, toasted side down, on the sushi mat. Use the spatula to spread a layer of rice over the nori, leaving a 3cm border at the end furthest from you. Make an indentation across the rice, about 10cm from the edge nearest to you, with the edge of the spatula. Put a very light coating of wasabi along this hollow, then fill it with the strips of avocado, cucumber and salmon. They should reach the width of the rice and the nori. To roll up the nori, lift the edge of the mat so that the nearest edge of the nori rolls up to meet the top of the rice. Press the mat to shape the roll. Taking care not to let the edge of the mat catch in the roll, roll the nori into a tight cylinder. The edge of the nori should seal with the moisture from the rice, but if it doesn’t, wet your finger, rub the nori and press it to seal. Put the roll seam side down on a platter. Repeat with the other sheets and filling until all is used up.
If the sushi are not to be served straight away cover the rolls with clingfilm. Cut them just before serving. With a very sharp dampened knife, cut each roll in half and then each half in four. Wipe and wet the knife between cuts.
Serve with more wasabi, pickled ginger or a dipping sauce made with 3 tbs rice vinegar and 4 tbs soy sauce.
Variations
• For alternative fillings use tomato (seeded and cut in strips), carrot (blanched and cut in thin strips), blanched spring onion, other smoked fish or very fresh top-quality raw fish such as salmon or tuna, cut in strips.
Wild rice
Wild rice is not related to rice, but is a grass that grows wild in marshlands in North America, and these days is also grown commercially in paddy fields. It has a nutty, slightly spicy flavour and is always sold as dark brown-black whole grains. Wild rice is high in proteins, minerals and fibre, low in fat and extremely nutritious. It is expensive but it goes a long way because it triples in volume when cooked, and you need add only a small amount to a salad, a soup or a rice pilaf to appreciate its distinctive taste. The real ‘wild’ rice still harvested each autumn from small lakes and marshes between the Great Lakes and the Midwest has a superior, slightly smoky flavour compared with the commercially grown types. Wild rice can be stored for up to one year.
Plain wild rice
The amount of liquid and the length of time needed to cook wild rice vary greatly from one brand to another, so read the instructions on the packet. The following are just general guidelines. Take 1 measure of wild rice, put it into a large bowl, cover with hot water and soak for 1 hour. Drain the rice and measure out a volume of water 2½ times that of the dry rice. Bring it to the boil, add stir in the rice, turn down the heat and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Bite on a grain to see if it is done; if not, cook longer: wild rice can take up to an hour. When it is ready the water should have been absorbed. Stir in a little butter or olive oil.
Wild rice with chicken livers
For 4–6
2 tbs olive oil
30g butter
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced
250g chicken livers
flour
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small glass brandy or madeira
250g mushrooms, sliced
250g cooked wild rice
100ml chicken stock (p. 4)
Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Heat 1 tbs oil and the butter and sauté the onion lightly. Clean the livers, discarding any stringy or greenish bits, and cut each in two. Dust them with seasoned flour and add them to the pan. Cook gently for about 3 minutes, then pour over the brandy or madeira and let it bubble and reduce. Heat the remaining oil in another pan and sauté the mushrooms. Stir the chicken livers and mushrooms into the wild rice and moisten with the stock. Put the mixture into a lightly greased ovenproof casserole, cover and bake for about 15 minutes to allow the rice to heat through and the flavours to mingle.
Wild rice and chestnut casserole
For 6
30g butter
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 stalks celery, sliced
1 measure wild rice (about 250g)
3 measures vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
salt and freshly ground pepper
150g cooked chestnuts (p. 129), broken into pieces
80g dried apricots, soaked and chopped
60g raisins, soaked
juice of 1 orange
2 tbs chopped tarragon
Melt the butter in an ovenproof casserole and sauté the onion and celery until lightly golden. Add the rice, stir well to coat the grains with butter, then add 2½ measures of stock. Season with salt and pepper, bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes. Taste to see if the rice is cooked.
Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Stir the chestnuts and drained fruits into the rice with the orange juice and some or all of the remaining stock. Add the tarragon, taste for seasoning and bake, covered, for 15 minutes.
Corn
This section covers cornmeal and other corn products made from the varieties that are allowed to dry on the stalk in the field, converting sugar to starch. The juicy immature corn sold as corn-on-the-cob is dealt with in the vegetable chapter.
Cornmeal and polenta are available in coarse or fine grades, yellow or white. The yellow has a clear corn flavour, the white is more delicate. Choose the coarse meal if you want to make a robust dish in which you can still feel the grains with your teeth; for a softer, smoother dish take a fine meal. Cornmeal and polenta will keep for several years in tightly closed containers.
Polenta
Polenta is the staple food of northern Italy, made by stirring polenta flour into water until it becomes dense and thick. It can be used when just made, warm and soft, to accompany meat stews or dishes of poultry or game birds with a lot of sauce that the polenta will soak up. It can be left to cool, when it becomes firm enough to slice, and then fry, grill or bake it. Polenta is bland and readily absorbs the flavours of foods served with it.
Soft polenta
Polenta demands time and attention if you make the real thing, but it is far superior to pre-cooked polenta. I prefer to use coarse flour because the finished polenta has a more interesting texture.
For 4–6
1.5 litres water
1 tsp salt
300g coarse polenta
1 tbs olive oil or 15g
butter
Bring the water to the boil with the salt. As soon as it boils, trickle in the polenta flour slowly, whisking hard. Don’t stop whisking or the grains may stick together, and keep the water at a steady boil until all the polenta is in the pan. It will bubble violently. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, always in the same direction, to prevent a skin forming on top. The polenta is ready when it comes away from the sides of the pan. Stir in the olive oil or butter.
Leave the polenta to rest for 5 minutes, then put it into a bowl and serve with more olive oil or butter, grated Parmesan or a sauce, or as an accompaniment to a stew.
Firm polenta
Cook the polenta as described above and have ready a lightly greased shallow baking tin. As soon as you have stirred in the olive oil or butter, spread the polenta in the tin, smoothing the top to make a layer about 1.5cm thick. Cover the top with a sheet of greaseproof paper and leave to cool. When it is cool and firm, cut it into slices or squares. They can be brushed with olive oil, toasted under a pre-heated grill or fried, or used as layers in a composite dish.
Pre-cooked polenta
Pre-cooked polenta lacks the taste and texture of the real thing, but it is passable if you are in a hurry. It is cooked in the same way, using the prescribed amount of water and will be ready in 5 minutes.
Sage-flavoured polenta with mushrooms and anchovies
For 3–4
150g coarse polenta
salt and freshly ground pepper
600ml water
olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
100g mushrooms, sliced finely
50g anchovy fillets, chopped
3 tbs chopped parsley
½ tbs chopped sage leaves
flour
8 whole sage leaves
Make the polenta following the method described above, and as soon as it is simmering heat 3 tbs oil in a frying pan and lightly sauté the garlic and mushrooms for 3–4 minutes, then add the anchovies and chopped herbs, season and cook for 1–2 minutes more. When the polenta is three-quarters ready, stir in this mixture and leave to finish cooking. Turn the polenta out into a shallow greased tin, smooth the top and allow to get cold. Then slice the polenta, coat the slices lightly in flour. Heat about 2cm oil in a frying pan, put in the whole sage leaves to flavour it and fry the polenta on both sides until crisp and golden. Serve very hot.
Polenta crostini with Gorgonzola
This recipe comes from Il libro della polenta by Luigi Carnacina and Vincenzo Buonassisi.
For 8
8 slices of cold polenta (see above)
100g butter
200g Gorgonzola
¼ tsp paprika
2 tbs brandy
Toast the polenta lightly on a griddle plate or under a grill. Whiz or mash together the butter, Gorgonzola, paprika and brandy. Spread the paste onto the warm slices and serve at once.
Cornmeal
We do not have the American tradition of cooking extensively with corn in its various dried forms – meal, grits, hominy – nor have we widely adopted the practice of using Mexican masa harina to make tortillas, but here are two simple recipes for corn bread and corn cakes which are well worth knowing about.
Corn cakes
For 16–18 cakes
80g plain flour
200g coarse cornmeal
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
180g fresh corn kernels
300ml buttermilk
30g butter, melted
1 egg, beaten
½ red pepper, diced
oil for frying
Mix together the dry ingredients. Put half of the corn into a food processor and purée, then remove it to a large bowl. Put 250ml buttermilk, butter and egg into the processor and whiz. With the motor running slowly, add the dry ingredients a little at a time through the feeder tube. Turn the batter into the bowl with the puréed corn. Fold them together and add the remaining corn and the red pepper. If the mixture is very thick, thin it with a little more buttermilk.
Heat a non-stick frying pan, coat it with a film of oil and spoon in the batter to make cakes 7–8 cm in diameter. Fry until golden brown, 2–3 minutes each side.
Serve the cakes instead of rice or couscous with a stew, or with avocado and orange salsa (p. 381) and grilled prawns for a light meal or first course.
New Mexican chilli corn bread
In New Mexico, almost everything comes with chillies, and I like the mild kick they give to this bread, but you can leave them out if you prefer. Jalapeño chillies are available canned, and occasionally fresh, from some supermarkets and specialist grocers, but you can use any fresh green chilli. Corn bread is the staple bread of the southern states of the US and appears for nearly every meal.
For 1 loaf
60g plain flour
180g cornmeal
1½ tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3 eggs
60g butter, melted
250ml milk and 50ml single cream – or 300ml milk
2–3 jalapeño chillies, seeded and chopped finely
Heat the oven to 190°C, 375°F, gas 5. Mix together the dry ingredients. In another bowl, whisk the eggs well, then whisk in the butter, milk, cream and chillies. Beat this mixture into the dry ingredients until they are well mixed and the batter is smooth. Grease thoroughly a 25cm cast-iron skillet, cake tin or other baking tin, pour in the batter and bake for about 20 minutes, until the bread has risen and is golden brown. Test with a flat skewer in the centre; it will come out clean when the bread is ready. Serve warm, cut in wedges. This is great with bacon, sausages or eggs for brunch, with barbecued foods or with vegetable stews. Any leftover bread can be sliced and toasted or fried.
Wheat
Recipes for bread, cakes and pastry are in Bread (pp. 439–58) and Cakes, Pastry and Batters (pp. 459–76). This section is concerned with cracked wheat, called bulgur or burghul, and with couscous.
Bulgur
Bulgur is made from wheat berries that have been parboiled and hulled, then dried and cracked. It is available in grades from fine to coarse. It is steamed in the same way as rice (p. 178) and served as a pilaf; use coarse or medium bulgur for pilafs. It is the everyday staple in countries such as Turkey and the Balkans where no rice is grown.
The nutty flavour of bulgur makes a pleasant change from rice as an accompaniment to meat and poultry or vegetable stews. Bulgur is also used to make a dessert with spices, walnuts and grape juice, a spiced winter drink, savoury patties, and one of the triumphs of Middle Eastern cooking, kibbeh. Kibbeh are small balls or ovals with a crisp outer shell, made of fine bulgur moistened and mixed with minced lamb, and a filling of meat, spices, nuts or vegetables. Fine bulgur soaked in water, but not cooked, is the basis of the popular salad, tabbouleh (p. 83).
Bulgur can turn rancid, but it can be kept (airtight) for up to 6 months.
Plain bulgur pilaf
For 4–6
4 tbs olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
300g medium or coarse bulgur
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
600ml vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
salt and freshly ground pepper
2–3 tbs chopped mint
Heat the oil in a large pan and gently sauté the onion for 3–4 minutes, then stir in the bulgur, coating it well with the oil. Fry for 4–5 minutes, add the tomatoes and continue to cook for a further 3–4 minutes. Meanwhile bring the stock to the boil. Pour the stock over the bulgur, adding salt if you wish. Cover the pan and cook for 3 minutes over medium heat, then 10–15 minutes on low heat. The bulgur will absorb the stock and holes appear on the surface. Put a folded tea towel over the pan and put back the lid, tucking up the ends of the cloth over the lid. Leave on the lowest possible heat, with a heat diffuser, for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to stand for another 5–10 minutes. Lift the grains with a slotted spoon or a wooden fork to fluff them, season well with pepper and add the mint.
Variations
• Add 1 small thin-skinned pale green pepper, chopped, at the same time as the bulgur.
• Add a few sultanas at the same time as the stock, and/or 60g chopped blanched almonds or pine nuts just before serving.
Bulgur pilaf with chick peas
For 4–6
80g olive oil or butter
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
300g bulgur
600ml vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
150g cooked chick peas (p. 80)
salt and freshly ground pepper
½ tsp red pepper flakes
2–3 tbs chopped coriander
Heat the oil or butter in a large pan and sauté the onion gently for 5–6 minutes. Stir in the bulgur and turn well to coat the grains in the fat. Cook for 4–5 minutes, and meanwhile heat the stock. Add the chick peas and hot stock to the pan, add salt if you wish. Cover the pan and simmer over medium heat for 5 minutes. Lower the heat and continue to cook for a further 10–15 minutes until the stock is absorbed and steam holes appear in the top of the bulgur. Put the pan on a heat diffuser, put a folded tea towel under the lid, tucking up the ends of the cloth over the lid, and cook very gently for 10 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and leave for 5–10 minutes. Lift the pilaf with a wooden fork or slotted spoon, stirring in black pepper and red pepper flakes as you do so. Sprinkle over the coriander and serve.
Couscous
Native to the Berbers of North Africa, couscous is a mixture of fine and coarse grain semolina rolled together and sieved to achieve a uniform size. The grain is traditionally steamed over the stew, also called couscous, with which it is served. This type of couscous, which needs soaking and then steaming, is more difficult to find now, as supermarkets and Middle Eastern shops stock instant or quick-cooking couscous, which is ready in 10–15 minutes or less and needs no actual cooking. It means that preparing couscous is now easy and the only time-consuming part is making the stew.
Quick-cooking couscous is covered with boiling water with some olive oil and salt if you wish. It is left, covered, to swell, then fluffed with a wooden fork and usually a little more oil is stirred through. Follow the instructions on the packet for the proportions of couscous and water. Couscous stored in an airtight container will keep for up to two years.
The stews for serving with the grain are usually made with lamb or chicken, sometimes beef, merguez sausages or fish. Combinations of root vegetables, cabbage, courgettes, onions, aubergines and pumpkin are used in all the stews, and to make the classic vegetable couscous au sept légumes (with seven vegetables). Plenty of herbs are used, principally dill, coriander and parsley, and the spicing is combinations of cumin, saffron, turmeric, paprika, chilli, coriander, cinnamon and black pepper.
The Tunisian vegetable stew (p. 171) goes well with couscous. An early summer vegetable stew of broad beans, artichokes, courgettes, fennel, peppers and celery seasoned with paprika, coriander, chilli and plenty of dill is good, too.
Couscous with grilled vegetables
Couscous is a good accompaniment to grilled vegetables. Vary the vegetables according to your taste and what is available; cook them under a grill or on a ribbed griddle plate.
For 4
3 courgettes, sliced thickly
2 red peppers, seeded and quartered
2 yellow peppers, seeded and quartered
2 red onions, peeled and quartered (if necessary, hold the pieces together with a toothpick)
4 large mushrooms, quartered
100ml olive oil
3 tbs lemon juice
½ tsp paprika
½ tsp ground cumin
salt and freshly ground pepper
300g quick-cooking couscous (see note on preparation, above)
150g cooked chick peas (p. 80)
3 tomatoes, peeled and diced
4 spring onions, sliced
4 tbs chopped parsley
4 tbs chopped dill
Put the courgettes, peppers, onions and mushrooms in a large bowl; mix together half the oil, the lemon juice, spices, salt and pepper, and pour over the vegetables. Toss to coat them with the marinade and leave to stand for 20 minutes. Heat the grill or griddle plate. Cook the couscous, stir in the remaining olive oil and fork it through. Put in the chick peas, tomatoes, spring onions and half the herbs, and keep warm.
Take the vegetables from the marinade and put them under the grill, 8–10cm from the heat source, or on the griddle plate. Turn occasionally and baste them as necessary with the remaining marinade. They will take 6–10 minutes.
Turn the couscous into a warmed serving dish, arrange the grilled vegetables over and around it and scatter over the remaining herbs.
Chicken couscous
For 6–8
4 tbs sunflower or olive oil
1.5kg chicken, cut into serving pieces
2 onions, peeled and chopped
1 tbs tomato paste
1 tsp paprika
½ tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp ground cumin
1 litre water
salt
3 carrots, peeled and cut in chunks
3 small white turnips, peeled and quartered
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
100g cooked chick peas (p. 80)
2 green peppers, seeded and cut in squares
2 courgettes, cut in chunks
4 tbs chopped coriander
500g quick-cooking couscous (see note on preparation, above)
harissa* or other chilli sauce
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the chicken pieces until turning golden, 3–4 minutes. Lift them out, add the onion and when it starts to brown add the tomato paste and spices. Stir well, put back the chicken and pour over the water. Season with salt, bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Add all the vegetables and continue to simmer until the chicken and vegetables are ready, 25–30 minutes. Stir in the coriander.
Prepare the couscous when the stew is almost ready. To serve, mound the couscous in a bowl, make a slight hollow in the centre and spoon some of the vegetables into the hollow and around the sides of the pyramid. Spoon over a little of the cooking liquid. Take a spoonful or two of the liquid and thin the harissa. Put the chicken and remaining vegetables and sauce in another bowl. Serve hot with the harissa on the side.
Barley
Most barley available in our shops is highly polished pearl barley that has shed most of its nutrients. Pot barley is whole barley with its bran retained. It takes longer to cook than pearl barley. Wash barley thoroughly and cook in water or stock. It needs 2 or 2½ times its volume of liquid. The water will be absorbed, leaving the barley dry and ready to serve.
Cooked barley is good in salads, as a base for grilled or roasted vegetables (see couscous with grilled vegetables, p. 202), as an alternative to rice for a vegetable stuffing, and in soups.
Barley and pumpkin casserole
For 4–6
50g butter
2 onions, peeled and chopped
200g pearl barley
500ml vegetable or chicken stock (p. 4)
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves or ½ tsp dried
salt and freshly ground pepper
500g pumpkin, peeled weight, cubed
2 tbs sunflower or olive oil
120g cashew nuts
2 tbs chopped chives or parsley
Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Melt the butter in an ovenproof casserole and sauté the onion gently for 5 minutes, then measure the barley and stir it in. Coat the grain with the butter, then add the same volume of stock as barley; add the thyme, season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, cover and transfer the casserole to the oven.
Rub the pumpkin with the oil, put it into a lightly oiled roasting tin and roast while the barley is cooking. Turn the pieces once or twice. It will take about 20 minutes.
After 30 minutes, add more stock to the barley and carefully stir in the pumpkin and cashews. Return the casserole to the oven for another 30 minutes, taste to see if the barley is ready. It should be turning creamy rather than chewy. If necessary, add more stock and cook a little longer. Garnish with chives or parsley.
Variations
• Replace the pumpkin by sautéed mushrooms or leeks, cooked chestnuts or Brussels sprouts. If you use chestnuts, omit the cashews.
• Replace the cashew nuts by 100g toasted, slivered almonds, but only add them for the last 10 minutes of cooking time.
• Sautéed chicken livers, or sliced cooked firm sausages such as merguez or chorizo, can also be added for the last 15 minutes’ cooking time.
Buckwheat
Buckwheat is not a grain, although it is used in similar ways and is nutritionally akin to wheat and other grains. It has a slightly nutty flavour, and is easy to digest. It is a three-sided seed that originated in central Asia and grows well in cold climates and poor soils. Unroasted buckwheat is pale green in colour; roasted it is chestnut brown. Buckwheat flour is used to make Russian blinis and Breton crêpes; in America it is also used for pancakes and muffins. Japanese soba noodles are made from buckwheat. Buckwheat is easier to find in health food shops than in the supermarket and is also sold under its Russian name kasha.
Buckwheat pilaf
Essentially buckwheat is steamed in the same way as rice (p. 178), and served as an accompanying dish for meat and poultry. It needs about twice as much water by volume as grain, so measure the buckwheat and liquid in the same container.
For 4–5
1 measure buckwheat (200g)
2 measures water or chicken stock (p. 4), about 400ml
1 tbs sunflower oil
salt and freshly ground pepper
Toast the buckwheat in a dry pan for 2–3 minutes, until it is fragrant, then add the water or stock and the oil. Season with salt. Bring to the boil, cover tightly, lower the heat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Take the pan from the heat and leave, covered, for 10 minutes, then fluff the buckwheat with a wooden fork and season with pepper and more salt if you wish.
Variations
• Add a sautéed chopped onion with the water or stock.
• Add 100g sautéed slivered almonds just before serving.