The New Penguin Cookery Book

Preserving food for winter supplies is no longer vitally important, but home-made jams, pickles and chutneys add variety to the store cupboard throughout the year. They are economical to make, and surveying a shelf of your own preserves is very rewarding. Good-quality fruit and vegetables are the basis of good preserves, whether sweet or savoury. For kitchen gardeners with seasonal gluts, or for an abundance of soft fruits from the local pick-your-own farm, preserves are a perfect answer.

Equipment

For all preserves, use a large heavy wide pan; a preserving pan with sloping sides is useful but not essential. A heavy base will prevent sticking and a pan wider than it is deep encourages evaporation. When making jam do not have the pan more than half full because the jam will bubble up and spit as it boils. Do not use unlined copper or brass when using vinegar in a recipe because it will react with the metal. You will also need a long-handled wooden spoon, a slotted spoon for skimming, nylon or plastic sieves (metal can leave an unpleasant taste), a jug or ladle for filling jars – an inexpensive jam funnel is helpful here, too – and a sugar thermometer can be useful but is not essential.

Make sure jars and bottles are not chipped or cracked. They must be sterilised before use: wash well in soapy water, rinse thoroughly in hot water and put them in a low oven (130°C, 250°F, gas ½) for 30 minutes. Screw-top lids are good, but they must be vinegar-proof or have a vinegar-proof lining if they are to be used for chutneys and pickles. Vinegar causes metal to corrode. Screw-top lids and corks should be boiled for 10 minutes then left to drain.

Packs of waxed papers, transparent discs and labels needed for covering and storing are available in kitchen shops and supermarkets.

Filling, covering and storing

Use warm jars when filling with hot preserves to prevent the jars cracking; leave the jars to cool before filling with cold preserves. Fill jars to the top and, while still very hot, cover the preserve with a waxed paper disc, waxed side down, pressed onto the surface. Cover with a transparent disc and then the lid, or secure the disc (or a double layer of clingfilm) with string or elastic band.

If a preserve is not covered while hot, leave until quite cold before covering. If you cover a warm preserve, moisture may form and cause spoilage.

Once the jars or bottles are sealed, wipe well to remove any sticky patches and remember to label clearly. Preserves are best kept in a cool, dry, dark place.

Jams and marmalades

Jam is a mixture of fruit and sugar. It should be clear, bright, firmly set but not too stiff, and have a distinctive fruit flavour. The fruit should be very fresh and ideally slightly under-ripe. It can be difficult to get jam made with over-ripe fruit to set. Successful jam making depends on the correct balance of pectin, acid and sugar. Pectin is a natural gum-like substance found in all fruits and extracted when they are boiled; it is most easily extracted in under-ripe fruit. Acid helps in the extraction of pectin and is also essential for a good set. Sugar is the preservative in jam making, but the points between which a jam is liable to ferment because it contains too little sugar or crystallize because it contains too much are rather small.

Some fruits (citrus fruits, apples, damsons, gooseberries, black and red currants) have a high pectin and acid content and will set easily when cooked with the right amount of sugar. Fruits like cherries, raspberries, peaches, mangoes, strawberries are low in pectin as well as acidity, so both must be added to make a preserve. The easiest form in which to add acid is lemon juice, while pectin can be increased by combining high and low pectin fruits or by adding commercial pectin. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the latter.

Granulated sugar or preserving sugar are most widely used for jam making. Commercial jam sugar with added natural apple pectin is also available; follow the instructions on the bag. The usual proportions are 375–500g sugar to every 500g fruit. If the sugar is warmed in a very low oven for 15–20 minutes before being added to the fruit it will dissolve more quickly.

Problems that can occur when making jam

• If the jam has not set: it can be re-boiled, or a little liquid pectin can be added to it.

• If the jam crystallizes: the jam was boiled too long or too fast before all the sugar had dissolved; too much sugar was used.

• If the jam ferments: the jam was boiled too little; too little sugar was used; the fruit may have been over-ripe and mushy.

• If mould occurs: the jam was not very hot nor quite cold when covered with the waxed disc; the jam was kept in warm or damp conditions.

Apricot and almond jam

Use ripe but firm apricots for this jam. It is worth taking the trouble to crack 5–6 apricot stones with a hammer or nutcracker, extract the kernels, blanch them for 2 minutes and remove the skins; they will enhance the flavour.

For about 1.6kg

1 kg apricots, halved and stoned

juice of 2 lemons

150ml water

1kg sugar

30g blanched split almonds

Put the apricot halves, with a few kernels if possible, into a large pan with the lemon juice and water. Bring slowly to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently until the fruit is soft and translucent, about 30–40 minutes. Warm the sugar in a low oven (opposite) while the fruit is cooking. Add the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Stir in the almonds. Increase the heat and boil briskly, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to thicken slightly; it will take 10–12 minutes. Test for setting (opposite). Remove the pan from the heat, skim any scum from the surface and leave to stand for 5 minutes or so. Stir to distribute the fruit evenly and pour the jam into warm sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Spiced blackberry jelly

For about 800g

1kg blackberries

250ml water

½ tsp ground cinnamon

pinch of ground cloves

sugar (for quantity see below)

juice of 2 lemons

Put the blackberries, water and spices in a large pan, bring slowly to the boil then simmer for about 25 minutes until soft and pulpy. Squash the fruit with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon as it cooks. Line a large plastic or nylon sieve with a piece of muslin (p. 528), tip in the blackberries and their juice and leave to drip through. Don’t press or the jelly will be cloudy. Measure the juice and for every 600ml add 500g sugar. Put the juice, sugar and lemon juice into a clean pan and heat gently until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil until setting point (p. 500) is reached – about 5 minutes. Pour into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Black currant jam

The cloves are not essential to the jam, but give it a lightly spiced flavour. Omit them if you wish.

For about 1.5kg

1kg black currants

3–4 cloves

800ml water

1.5kg sugar

Strip the black currants (run the stalks through a fork) and discard any small green currants. Put the fruit in a large pan with the cloves and water. Bring slowly to the boil, then simmer until the skins and fruit are soft and the fruit mixture has reduced by about one third; it can take 45–50 minutes. Warm the sugar in a low oven (p. 500) for the last 30 minutes of the cooking time. Add the sugar over medium heat and stir until it has dissolved. Increase the heat and boil fast, stirring occasionally, until the jam thickens and setting point (p. 500) is reached. Blackcurrant jam sets quite quickly so test frequently to ensure it is not overcooked. Take the pan from the heat, remove any scum, leave to stand for a few minutes, then stir to distribute the fruit and pour into warm sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Damson and apple jam

For about 3.2kg

1kg damsons

250ml water

1kg cooking apples

2kg sugar

Remove any stalks from the damsons, slit the fruits along one side and put them in a large pan with the water and simmer until soft, about 30–40 minutes. The stones will rise to the surface during cooking and can be removed. Peel, core and chop the apples and add to the pan. Simmer until the apple is soft, but don’t let it disintegrate; the texture of the jam is improved by some pieces of apple. While the apple is cooking, warm the sugar in a low oven (p. 500). Add the sugar, and stir until it dissolves. Turn up the heat and boil briskly until the mixture thickens and setting point is reached (p. 500). Remove the pan from the heat, skim off any scum, stir and pour into warm, sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Four fruit jam

This recipe originally appeared in Canning, Preserving and Pickling by Marion Harris Neil, published in the 1930s.

For about 2.5kg

1 kg cherries, stones removed and reserved

500g gooseberries

500g red or black currants

250g raspberries

1.5kg sugar

Tie the stones from the cherries in a piece of muslin (p. 528). Top and tail the gooseberries. Put the fruit and sugar into a large pan, bring slowly to the boil, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking, and boil until the liquid evaporates and the mixture thickens. Test for setting (p. 500). When the jam is ready, remove the pan from the heat. Discard the cherry stones, skim off any scum and leave to stand for a few minutes. Stir to distribute the fruit, pour the jam into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Plum, rum and walnut jam

For about 1.5kg

1kg plums

200ml water

900g sugar

100g walnuts, chopped

4 tbs dark rum

Cut the plums in half and discard the stones. Put the fruit into a large pan with the water and slowly bring to the boil. Simmer, stirring from time to time, until the plums are tender, about 30–40 minutes. Warm the sugar in a low oven (p. 500) while the fruit is cooking, then add it to the pan. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and bring the mixture to a brisk boil and boil until setting point is reached (p. 500), about 12–15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, skim off any scum and stir in the walnuts and rum. Pour the jam into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Peach and orange jam

For about 2kg

1.5kg peaches

2 unwaxed oranges

2 unwaxed lemons

150ml water

1.5kg sugar

Immerse the peaches in boiling water for 1 minute, then drain and remove the skins. Cut them in half, remove the stones and slice the flesh. Put the slices in a large pan with the grated rind of the oranges and lemons and the water and simmer for 20–25 minutes until the peaches are tender. While the fruit is cooking, put the sugar in a low oven to warm (p. 500). Cut the pith from the oranges and lemons and cut the fruit into pieces over a bowl to catch the juices. Discard the pips. Add the citrus fruit and juice to the peaches and stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Boil briskly until the mixture thickens and setting point is reached (p. 500), about 10–12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, stir to distribute the fruit and pour into warm, sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Raspberry jam

This recipe is for an uncooked jam with a vibrant flavour. It will keep for up to 3 months.

For about 1.6kg

1kg raspberries

1kg sugar

Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Put the raspberries and sugar into separate ovenproof dishes and put them in the oven to get very hot. This takes 20–30 minutes. Add the sugar to the raspberries and mix them thoroughly, mashing the raspberries with the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher and stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Pour into warm sterilized jars at once, cover and seal.

Eliza Acton’s ‘superlative red currant jelly’

This recipe from Modern Cookery of 1845 makes a beautifully clear, sharp jelly ‘of the finest possible flavour’. It does not set very hard, but is firm enough to spoon out.

For about 800g

1kg red currants

1kg sugar

Put the currants (there is no need to remove the stalks) and sugar into a large pan and bring to the boil. Stir as you do so and crush the currants with the back of the spoon. Boil rapidly for exactly 8 minutes, stirring all the time and skimming off the abundant scum from the surface. Turn the preserve into a fine nylon or plastic sieve, pressing the skin and pips against the sides to extract as much pectin as possible. Pour at once into small, warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Strawberry jam

For about 1.4kg

1.5kg strawberries

750g sugar

juice of 1 large lemon

Hull the strawberries after washing them, drain well and cut them into pieces. Layer them in a large pan with the sugar, ending with a layer of sugar. Cover with a clean cloth and leave to macerate for 6 hours.

Put the pan over low heat and add half the lemon juice. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir briskly, crushing the fruit with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, then increase the heat, add the rest of the lemon juice and boil for 10–15 minutes. Test for setting (p. 500) as the mixture thickens. Pour the jam into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Seville orange marmalade

Seville oranges are in season during January and early February, and bitter oranges from the southern hemisphere come in briefly in October, so don’t delay in buying them if you want to make marmalade. At other times of the year, you can make marmalade with other citrus fruits. This method of first cooking the whole oranges in the oven or in a closed pan produces a thick, chunky marmalade.

For about 1.8kg

1kg Seville oranges

sugar (for quantity see below)

Heat the oven to 170°C, 325°F, gas 3. Wash the fruit and put it into a casserole, cover with boiling water, cover tightly and bake for about 3 hours, until the fruit is soft enough to pierce easily with a skewer. Alternatively put the oranges in a large pan, cover with boiling water and the lid and simmer gently for 1½–2 hours. Take the oranges from the casserole or pan, reserving the liquid. Cut up the fruit – it is best to do this on a plate because it will produce a great deal of liquid, and I find a knife and fork the most efficient way to do the job. Having removed the pips as you cut, now return them to the cooking liquid and boil for 5 minutes, then strain, again reserving the liquid.

Weigh the fruit pulp and for every 500g take 750g sugar and 450ml of the liquid. Put everything into a large pan and cook gently until the sugar dissolves, then boil rapidly until setting point is reached (p. 500), about 10 minutes. Skim and let the marmalade cool slightly to help distribute the peel. As soon as a skin forms on the surface, stir the marmalade and pour into warm, sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Grapefruit, lemon and ginger marmalade

For about 2.2kg

2 unwaxed grapefruit

2 unwaxed lemons

2.5 litres water

1.5kg sugar

150g crystallized ginger, chopped

Wash the fruit, remove the peel and cut it into thin strips. Remove excess pith from the fruit, including the pithy centres of the grapefruit but do not throw away. Slice the fruit thinly, removing and retaining the pips. Put the pips and some of the pith in a piece of muslin (p. 528) and put the bag into a large pan with the fruit and peel. Pour over the water and simmer for 1½ hours. For the last half-hour of the cooking time, put the sugar to warm in a low oven (p. 500).

The contents of the pan should have reduced almost by half. Take out the bag of pips and squeeze it thoroughly over the pan, then discard. Add the warmed sugar and stir until it dissolves. Increase the heat and bring the pan to a fast boil, stir in the ginger and cook until setting point is reached (p. 500), about 10 minutes. Take off any scum and leave the marmalade to cool slightly. When a skin begins to form on the surface, stir the pan and pour the marmalade into warm, sterilized jars. Cover and seal.

Preserves

The main preserving agents for fruit and vegetables are sugar and vinegar: sugar or syrup for sweet preserves, vinegar for pickles, and both for chutney. Spices and herbs add depth of flavour and give an aromatic lift to oils and vinegars.

Sweet preserves

Lemon curd

Use lemon curd in cake and tart fillings, on scones or bread. Store it in the refrigerator where it will keep for 2 months.

For about 500g

250g sugar

75g butter

grated rind and juice of 3 unwaxed lemons

3 eggs

Put the sugar, butter, lemon rind and juice in a bowl placed over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently until the butter has melted and the sugar dissolved. Beat the eggs lightly and strain them into the mixture. Cook gently until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. It will take 15–20 minutes. Stir occasionally at first and constantly as the mixture thickens towards the end of the cooking time. Make sure that the water does not boil, for if the curd boils it will curdle.

Pour the curd into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Mincemeat

For about 1.5kg

200g tart apples

200g ready-to-eat dried apricots

200g raisins

200g currants

200g sultanas

60g mixed peel

60g peeled, chopped almonds

200g sugar

150g beef or vegetarian suet

1 tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp grated nutmeg

seeds of 4 cardamom pods^*, crushed

grated rind and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

grated rind and juice of 1 unwaxed orange

80ml rum or brandy

Peel, core and chop the apples, chop the apricots quite finely. Thoroughly mix the apple and apricot with the rest of the ingredients in a large china or earthenware bowl. Cover and leave to stand for 24 hours. Put into sterilized jars, making sure there are no air pockets. Cover and seal as for jam.

Chutneys and pickles

Chutneys and pickles are a simple way of preserving fruits and vegetables and providing additional flavourings for the store cupboard to serve with a curry, grilled meats, rice dishes, a selection of cold meats or cheeses. Spices are an essential part of chutney and pickle making: cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg and mace provide mild flavours; allspice, cardamom^* and cloves are more aromatic; chillies, cayenne, mustard, ginger, garam masala^* and curry powder add heat. You can vary the spicing to suit your own taste. I prefer to use wine, cider or white vinegar because I find malt vinegar too potent, but the latter is cheaper. Use sea salt, not table salt which has additives to keep it free-flowing.

Keep chutneys and pickles in a cool, dark place. See the notes on p. 499, with particular reference to keeping vinegar-based preserves out of contact with metal.

Chutneys

These are made principally with fruits and some aromatic vegetables cooked slowly with vinegar and sugar, laced with herbs and spices to produce rich sweet-sour or hot relishes. The vinegar, sugar, salt and spices act as preserving agents. Slow cooking is essential to produce a mellow flavour, as is allowing the chutney to mature in the jar for several weeks before eating. In fact, some chutneys will mature over 3–4 years. If you are making only a small quantity, it would be sensible to cover the pan so that the mixture does not dry out before it is fully cooked.

Fruit and vegetables for chutney need not be at their best (windfalls come into their own here) but make sure to remove all bruised and blemished parts, and don’t use fruit that is over-ripe or mouldy. Chutneys invite improvisation, so try other combinations of fruits and spices, according to what is available.

It is difficult to be precise about the yield of chutney recipes because it depends on the thickness of the chutney and how much liquid evaporates during cooking. I have given amounts but they should be treated as a guideline only.

The chutneys in this chapter are all cooked; uncooked chutneys are in the Sauces chapter on p. 382–3.

Pickles

These are whole or sliced vegetables, or sometimes fruits, preserved in spiced vinegar to keep their shape and appearance. Use firm, fresh, even-sized vegetables. Vegetables may be salted overnight or pickled immediately in spiced vinegar. Use whole spices for pickles because ground ones cloud the vinegar. It is important that vegetables are well covered by vinegar when put in jars because the vinegar may evaporate. If the pickles have a tendency to float, put a piece of crumpled greaseproof paper in the top of the jar; after a few weeks it can be removed. Add more vinegar if necessary at this stage so that the food is always covered.

Problems that can occur when making chutney and pickles

• Chutney dried out and shrunk in the jar: cover not airtight, or jar stored in warm conditions.

• Chutney thin and watery: under-cooked.

• Chutney mouldy on top: under-cooked; there is not enough vinegar in the jar or the vinegar is too weak; the jars were not sterilized before filling.

• Pickles dried out: jars not airtight allowing vinegar to evaporate.

• Pickles soft and mushy: stored for too long.

• Pickles that do not keep well: insufficient salt or vinegar; vinegar too weak.

• Pickles mouldy on top: not completely covered with vinegar before storing.

Note that rust will form on metal lids and cause contamination, so use other forms of lid.

Apricot and apple chutney

For about 1.2kg

500g dried apricots

2 green apples

3 large onions

150g raisins

450ml white wine vinegar

250g muscovado sugar

1 tsp mustard seeds

½ tsp ground ginger

½ tsp ground allspice

1½ tsp salt

Soak the apricots in hot water for 3–4 hours unless they are the ready-to-eat type. Drain and chop them. Peel, core and chop the apples, peel and slice the onions. Put all the ingredients into a large pan and simmer until the mixture has reduced and thickened. It will take about 40 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Put the chutney into jars, cover and seal while hot.

Red pepper chutney

This chutney comes from Escoffier’s Ma Cuisine and was quoted by Elizabeth David in Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen. Perhaps better described as a relish rather than a chutney, it keeps for a month or so and is excellent with cold meats.

For about 2kg

500g Spanish onions, peeled

100ml olive oil

1 kg red peppers

850g tomatoes

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp allspice

500g sugar

250g sultanas

300ml wine vinegar

Chop the onions and brown them lightly in the oil. Cut the peppers in strips, discarding the seeds and white membrane, and add them to the onions. Stew them together gently for 10–15 minutes. Peel, seed and chop the tomatoes, and add them to the pan with the garlic, spices, sugar and sultanas. Stir to mix all the ingredients and add the vinegar. Cover the pan and cook over very low heat, using a heat diffuser if necessary, for about 1½ hours until you have an iridescent golden mixture. Put into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Carrot and raisin chutney

This is a fairly dry Indian sweet and sour chutney that is ready to eat within a few days. Serve with your favourite curry, a dish of rice and lentils (p. 185) or just spread it on bread.

For about 1.5kg

300ml wine, cider or white vinegar

750g sugar

1 kg carrots, peeled

4cm ginger, peeled

2 garlic cloves, peeled

2 tsp chilli powder

1 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp garam masala^*

1 tsp salt

200g raisins

Heat the vinegar and sugar slowly until the sugar dissolves. Grate the carrots. Chop the ginger finely and crush the garlic. Add the carrots, ginger, garlic, spices and salt to the vinegar and simmer for about 20 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the raisins and continue to cook for another 5–10 minutes until the carrots are almost dry. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool. Put into sterilized jars and keep for 2–3 days before eating.

Plum and pear chutney

A good autumn chutney to make with the last fruits of the season. I have sometimes replaced some of the fruit by apples and used raisins or sultanas instead of dates.

For about 1.8kg

1kg plums

1 kg pears

200g dates, stoned

500g onions, peeled

500ml herb vinegar (p. 516)

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground allspice

½ tsp grated nutmeg

250g muscovado sugar

Cut the plums in half and discard the stones. Peel and core the pears and cut them in chunks. Chop the dates and the onions. Put all the ingredients except the sugar into a large pan and simmer for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender. Add the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Simmer gently until the chutney is thick and the vinegar has evaporated, about 40 minutes. Leave to cool, then put into sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Green tomato chutney

For about 1.1kg

800g green tomatoes, chopped

2 tart apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

150g raisins

1 tsp salt

200g muscovado sugar

200ml wine or cider vinegar

2 tsp mustard seeds (p. 76)

1 tsp coriander seed

2 dried chillies

Put all the fruits and vegetables into a large pan with the salt, sugar and vinegar. Tie the spices in a piece of muslin (p. 528) and add them to the pan. Bring to the boil, and simmer, stirring often for 25–30 minutes until the chutney has thickened. Discard the spices. Put into warm, sterilized pots, cover and seal.

Red tomato chutney

For about 700g

1 kg very ripe tomatoes

1 medium onion

2 garlic cloves

6 cloves

4cm ginger

1 tsp salt

250ml wine vinegar

250g sugar

¼ tsp ground chilli

Peel and quarter the tomatoes. Peel and chop the onion and garlic. Tie the cloves and ginger in a piece of muslin (p.528) and put with the vegetables, salt and vinegar into a large pan. Simmer gently until the tomatoes and onions are soft and pulpy. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the sugar. When it has dissolved return the pan to the heat and simmer gently until the vinegar is absorbed and the chutney is thick and jam-like, about 45 minutes. Stir in the chilli. Put the chutney into warm, sterilized jars, cover and seal.

Pickled beetroot

This sweet-sour pickle is quite different from the sharp, vinegary English pickled beetroot and comes from the Republic of Georgia.

For about 900g

1kg beetroot of similar size

300ml wine vinegar

4 tbs sugar

2 tsp dried mint

4 cloves

6 black peppercorns

Put the washed and unpeeled beetroot in a large pan, pour over boiling water, cover and simmer until they are just tender, about 15 minutes for baby beets, up to 45 minutes for large ones. Drain the beetroot, reserving 250ml of the cooking liquid. Turn the beetroot into a bowl of cold water to arrest the cooking, peel and slice them. Put them into sterilized jars. Bring the reserved cooking liquid to the boil with the vinegar and other ingredients. Pour the pickling liquid over the beetroot, making sure they are fully immersed. Cover and keep for at least a week before using.

Pickled onion

This recipe comes from the Yucatán peninsula in southern Mexico where the onion is served with tortillas stuffed with beans and chicken. It is good with cold meats, too.

For about 400g

500g red onions, peeled

salt

2 tsp dried oregano, rubbed (p. 517)

½ tsp ground allspice

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper

3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thinly

about 300ml wine or cider vinegar

Slice the onions thinly and blanch them in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Drain well and put into a wide bowl. Mix together the oregano and spices and mix them into the onion with the garlic. The best way to make sure all the onion is coated with the spice mixture is to stir the mixture with your hands. Put the onion into a sterilized jar, pressing it down. Pour over the vinegar, making sure there is enough to cover the onion completely. Cover and refrigerate. The onion can be eaten within 24 hours but will keep and mature for up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.

Spiced preserves

Preserved lemons

Preserved lemons can now be bought in some delicatessens and some supermarkets, but it is very easy to make your own, and their distinctive, slightly salty taste is useful in salads, in dressings and salsas, as well as to flavour meat and vegetables. Use unwaxed lemons or, if you can’t find them, scrub the lemons very thoroughly.

Take 4 or 5 lemons, wash them well and cut almost into four, leaving the pieces attached at the stalk end. Sprinkle coarse sea salt – about 1 tbs per lemon – into the cuts, close up the lemons again and put them in a large jar. Press down well and put a weight (a clean heavy stone will do) on top. Close the jar. After 2–3 days the lemons will begin to release some of their juices. Pour over enough fresh lemon juice (from 3–4 lemons) to cover them completely and leave for 1 month.

A piece of lemon exposed to the air may develop a harmless white mould. Just wash it off. The lemons will keep for a year, and the flavour improves with keeping.

Chilli jam (Nam prik pad)

This Thai relish can be served as a condiment to accompany Thai dishes or stirred into soups, stir-fries and rice dishes. It will also pep up a yogurt dressing.

Shrimp paste is made from fermented prawns, and is widely used in south-east Asian cooking. It is very pungent, the aroma being reminiscent of meat extract. It is used with vegetable, meat and poultry dishes as well as fish, giving depth of flavour. Available in blocks from oriental shops, it may be sold under the names of trassi or blachan. Once opened, keep the block in a jar to contain its pungent smell.

Dried shrimps, available whole or shredded, are another staple flavouring throughout tropical Asia. They go whole into vegetable dishes; when chopped, they are combined with pork, or they can be ground and sprinkled over noodles and salads. Available from oriental shops.

For 1 small jar

1 tsp shrimp paste

5 large red chillies, fresh or dried, seeds and stalk removed

10 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

10 shallots, peeled and sliced

4 tbs dried shrimps

3 tbs vegetable oil

2 tbs sugar

3 tbs tamarind^* water

Wrap the shrimp paste in a piece of foil, place it under a hot grill or in a preheated oven for a few minutes until it darkens in colour. Tear the chillies into pieces. Dry-roast the chillies, garlic and shallots separately. This can be done in a hot oven (200°C, 400°F, gas 6), putting them on a large baking tray, or one by one in a dry, heavy frying pan. When the garlic, shallots and chillies are soft, put them into a food processor or a large mortar with the shrimp paste and blend to a paste. Scrape down the sides to make sure everything is well blended. Pound the dried shrimps finely and add them to the mixture. Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan and fry the paste until it smells fragrant and cooked. Stir in the sugar and tamarind water and fry a little longer until everything is well mixed and slightly reduced. Cool and put into a sterilized jar. Cover, seal and put in the refrigerator where it will keep for a month or so, although this small amount may not get the chance to do so. If you like the preserve, you can easily increase the quantities to make a few jars at a time.

Sweet chilli sauce (Saus prik)

Another Thai recipe, this hot, sweet and garlicky sauce is served in many Thai restaurants. You can buy bottles of chilli sauce, but it is easy to make at home and tastes much better. You can determine the heat of the sauce by increasing or reducing the number of chillies. Small chillies are much hotter than large ones, and if you leave the seeds in the sauce they will contribute more heat still.

For about 600ml

150g fresh red chillies, stalks and seeds removed

6 garlic cloves, peeled

3cm ginger, peeled and cut in pieces

250g sultanas

200g tinned tomatoes, drained

150ml rice or wine vinegar

1 tsp salt

350g sugar

150ml water

Put the chillies, garlic, ginger, sultanas, tomatoes and vinegar into a food processor or blender and blend to a purée. If necessary, scrape down the sides to ensure all the ingredients are well mixed. Tip the purée into a pan and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil, stirring to ensure the sugar dissolves, then simmer gently for 15–20 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the sauce has thickened slightly. Let it cool, then pour into sterilized bottles or jars and seal. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Jams and other preserves