CHAPTER 9 SEAFOOD

1. Arrange lemon slices in single layer over bottom of 12-inch skillet. Scatter parsley stems, tarragon stems, and half of shallots over lemon slices then add wine and water.

2. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat dry with paper towels and season with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Lay salmon fillets, skinned-side down, on top of lemons and herb sprigs. Set pan over high heat and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 10 to 12 minutes.

3. Transfer salmon, herb sprigs, and lemon slices to paper towel–lined plate, cover with aluminum foil, and let drain while finishing sauce.

4. Return cooking liquid to medium-high heat and simmer until reduced to 1 tablespoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Combine remaining shallots, minced parsley, minced tarragon, capers, and oil in bowl. Strain reduced cooking liquid through fine-mesh strainer into bowl, whisk to combine, and season with pepper to taste.

5. Gently transfer drained salmon to individual serving plates, discarding lemon slices and herb stems. Spoon vinaigrette evenly over tops and serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 420 • Total Fat 26g • Sat Fat 6g • Chol 95mg

Sodium 350mg • Total Carbs 4g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 35g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

VARIATION

Poached Salmon with Herb-Dijon Vinaigrette

Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, stems reserved, for tarragon and add 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard to shallot-herb mixture in step 4. Omit capers.

PER SERVING

Cal 430 • Total Fat 26g • Sat Fat 6g • Chol 95mg

Sodium 340mg • Total Carbs 4g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 35g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Oven-Roasted Salmon

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Perfectly roasted salmon is a blank canvas for many healthy relishes and sauces, but you need a method for ensuring fish that cooks up tender, not dry. Our hybrid roasting method solves this common problem by heating the oven to 500 degrees before dropping the temperature to 275. The initial blast of heat firms the exterior and renders some fat while the fish gently cooks. We also place the baking sheet in the oven as it preheats, which jump-starts the cooking of the salmon. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the fillets until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page. Serve with one of the sauces on this page–this page, if desired.

1 (1½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets, then make 4 or 5 shallow slashes about an inch apart along skin side of each piece, being careful not to cut into flesh. Pat fillets dry with paper towels, rub with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. Once oven reaches 500 degrees, reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees. Remove sheet from oven and carefully place salmon, skin-side down, on hot sheet. Roast until centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Slide spatula along underside of fillets and transfer to individual serving plates or serving platter, leaving skin behind; discard skin. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 24g • Sat Fat 5g • Chol 95mg

Sodium 250mg • Total Carbs 0g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 35g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0

Salmon skin needs to be scored to keep it from buckling. Using a sharp or serrated knife, cut four or five shallow slashes, about an inch apart, through the skin of each piece of salmon, being careful not to cut into the fish.

Sesame Salmon with Napa Cabbage Slaw

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple, fresh supper, we paired seared salmon—coated in a sprinkling of sesame seeds—with a vibrant, fiber-rich slaw. Napa cabbage and grapefruit pieces were the base of our slaw and provided a light contrast to the rich fish. Shredded carrots added more texture, and thinly sliced jalapeño added just enough heat. We kept our slaw dressing simple: Rice vinegar, sesame oil, and just a bit of salt and pepper enhanced the flavor of the vegetables and complemented the sesame seeds on the salmon. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves. For information on salmon, see this page. Shred the carrots on the large holes of a box grater.

3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon canola oil

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Salt and pepper

1 red grapefruit

½ head napa cabbage, cored and sliced thin (5½ cups)

3 carrots, peeled and shredded

3 scallions, sliced thin

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin

1 (1½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1. Whisk vinegar, canola oil, sesame oil, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Cut away peel and pith from grapefruit. Quarter grapefruit, then slice crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces. Add grapefruit pieces, cabbage, carrots, scallions, and jalapeño to dressing in bowl and toss to combine. Set aside.

2. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Sprinkle flesh sides of fillets evenly with sesame seeds.

3. Arrange salmon skin side down in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Place skillet over medium-high heat and cook until fat from skin renders, about 7 minutes. Flip salmon and continue to cook until centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), about 7 minutes. Remove skin from salmon and serve with slaw.

PER SERVING

Cal 490 • Total Fat 29g • Sat Fat 6g • Chol 95mg

Sodium 410mg • Total Carbs 18g • Fiber 7g • Total Sugar 10g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 38g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Pomegranate Roasted Salmon with Lentils and Chard

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Here we amplified the benefits of salmon by pairing it with high-fiber lentils, nutritious Swiss chard, and pomegranate molasses and seeds, a rich source of B vitamins. While chard stems are often discarded, they have great flavor, so we softened then simmered them with our lentils, stirring in the leaves near the end. For the salmon, we wanted sweetness without a sugary glaze, so we painted it with pomegranate molasses. Fresh pomegranate seeds tied the dish together. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the fillets until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page. Lentilles du Puy, also called French green lentils, are our first choice, but brown, black, or regular green lentils will work (cooking times will vary).

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces Swiss chard, stemmed, ½ cup stems chopped fine, leaves cut into 2-inch pieces

1 small onion, chopped fine

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 sprigs fresh thyme

Salt and pepper

1½ cups unsalted chicken broth

¾ cup lentilles du Puy, picked over and rinsed

1 (1½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

½ cup pomegranate seeds

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chard stems, onion, garlic, thyme, and ⅛ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in broth and lentils and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lentils are mostly tender but still intact, 45 to 55 minutes.

2. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Uncover lentils and stir in chard leaves. Increase heat to medium-low and continue to cook until chard leaves are tender and lentils are completely tender, about 4 minutes. Off heat, discard thyme sprigs and season with pepper to taste; cover to keep warm.

3. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat dry with paper towels. Brush with remaining 1 teaspoon oil, then brush with 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Once oven reaches 500 degrees, reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees. Remove sheet from oven and carefully place salmon skin-side down on hot sheet. Roast until centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 6 minutes.

4. Brush salmon with remaining 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses. Slide spatula under fillets and transfer to individual serving plates or serving platter, leaving skin behind; discard skin. Stir pomegranate seeds into lentil mixture and serve with salmon.

PER SERVING

Cal 580 • Total Fat 29g • Sat Fat 6g • Chol 95mg

Sodium 540mg • Total Carbs 35g • Fiber 8g • Total Sugar 9g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 46g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

Black Rice Bowls with Salmon

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Black rice, an ancient grain that was once reserved for the emperors of China, contains more protein, fiber, and iron than any other rice variety. We decided to use it in a Japanese-style rice bowl with healthful salmon as the star. To ensure well-seasoned grains with a bit of chew, we boiled the rice like pasta, and then drizzled it with a mix of rice vinegar, mirin, miso, and ginger. We roasted salmon fillets until medium-rare and then arranged them atop the rice before garnishing our bowls with radishes, avocado, cucumber, and scallions. To ensure uniform pieces of salmon that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the fillets until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page.

¾ cup black rice

Salt and pepper

¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar

¼ cup mirin

1 tablespoon white miso

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice

1 (1½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin

1 cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin

½ avocado, sliced thin

2 scallions, sliced thin

1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add rice and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain rice and transfer to large bowl.

2. Whisk vinegar, mirin, miso, ginger, lime zest and juice, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in small bowl until miso is fully incorporated. Measure out ¼ cup vinegar mixture and drizzle over rice. Let rice cool to room temperature, tossing occasionally, about 20 minutes. Set remaining dressing aside for serving.

3. While rice is cooking, adjust oven rack to lowest position, place aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat salmon dry with paper towels, rub with oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

4. Once oven reaches 500 degrees, reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees. Remove sheet from oven and carefully place salmon skin-side down on hot sheet. Roast until centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and thickest part registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 6 minutes.

5. Flake salmon into large 3-inch pieces. Portion rice into 4 individual serving bowls and top with salmon, radishes, cucumber, and avocado. Sprinkle with scallions and drizzle with reserved dressing. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 580 • Total Fat 29g • Sat Fat 6 • Chol 95mg

Sodium 490mg • Total Carbs 37g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 7g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 39g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 2.5

Relishes and Sauces for Fish

Homemade sauces are easy to make and a nice way to dress up a simply prepared piece of fish such as Oven-Roasted Salmon and Sautéed Sole. These fresh relishes, mustard vinaigrette, and creamy sauces are really flavorful so a little goes a long way. Here are a few of the test kitchen’s favorites to try.

Fresh Tomato Relish

MAKES 1 CUP

Be sure to use super-ripe tomatoes in this simple relish.

2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces

1 small shallot, minced

1 small garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Pepper

Combine all ingredients in bowl, let sit for 15 minutes, and season with pepper to taste.

PER ¼-CUP SERVING

Cal 45 • Total Fat 3.5g • Sat Fat 0.5g • Chol 0mg

Sodium 0mg • Total Carbs 3g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 1g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Grapefruit-Basil Relish

MAKES 1 CUP

The sweetness of this relish depends on the sweetness of the grapefruits.

2 red grapefruits

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Pepper

Cut away peel and pith from grapefruits. Cut grapefruits into 8 wedges, then slice crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Place grapefruit in strainer set over bowl and let drain for 15 minutes; measure out and reserve 1 tablespoon drained juice. Combine reserved juice, shallot, basil, lemon juice, and oil in bowl. Stir in grapefruit and let sit for 15 minutes. Season with pepper to taste. (Relish can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

PER ¼-CUP SERVING

Cal 80 • Total Fat 2.5g • Sat Fat 0g • Chol 0mg

Sodium 0mg • Total Carbs 17g • Fiber 6g • Total Sugar 10g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 1g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Mustard Vinaigrette with Lemon and Parsley

MAKES ½ CUP

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

5 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

1 small shallot, minced

1 tablespoon water

2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

Pepper

Whisk oil, lemon juice, mustard, shallot, water, and parsley together in bowl and season with pepper to taste. Let sit for 10 minutes. (Vinaigrette can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; whisk to recombine before serving.)

PER 2-TABLESPOON SERVING

Cal 110 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 0mg

Sodium 125mg • Total Carbs 1g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 0g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Tartar Sauce

MAKES ½ CUP

This briny sauce is the classic accompaniment for fish.

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons low-fat sour cream

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

3 cornichons, minced, plus 2 teaspoons cornichon pickling juice

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and minced

Water

Pepper

Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, onion, cornichons and juice, and capers in bowl. Add water as needed to thin sauce consistency and season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

PER 2-TABLESPOON SERVING

Cal 100 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 200mg • Total Carbs 2g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 1g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Creamy Dill Sauce

MAKES ½ CUP

This creamy sauce goes especially well with salmon.

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons low-fat sour cream

1 small shallot, minced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill

Water

Pepper

Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, shallot, lemon juice, and dill in bowl. Add water as needed to thin sauce consistency and season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

PER 2-TABLESPOON SERVING

Cal 100 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 95mg • Total Carbs 1g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 1g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Creamy Chipotle Chile Sauce

MAKES ½ CUP

You can vary the spiciness of this sauce by adjusting the amount of chipotle.

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons low-fat sour cream

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro

1 garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

Water

Pepper

Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, lime juice, cilantro, garlic, and chipotle in bowl. Add water as needed to thin sauce consistency and season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

PER 2-TABLESPOON SERVING

Cal 100 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 95mg • Total Carbs 1g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 1g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Oven-Poached Side of Salmon

SERVES 10

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS An easy way to cook and serve a large piece of salmon is to poach it and then chill it. Our method eliminates the need for a large, unwieldy fish poacher. We simply wrap the seasoned fish in foil and place it directly on the oven rack, which offers more even cooking than using a baking sheet. Cooking the salmon low and slow yields the best results. If serving a big crowd, you can oven-poach two individually wrapped sides of salmon in the same oven (on the upper- and lower-middle racks) without altering the cooking time. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the fillets until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page. Serve with one of the sauces on this page–this page, if desired.

1 (4-pound) skin-on side of salmon, pinbones removed

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

6 sprigs plus 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon or dill

2 lemons, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds, plus lemon wedges for serving

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Cut three sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil to be 1 foot longer than side of salmon. Working with 2 pieces of foil, fold up 1 long side of each by 3 inches. Lay sheets side by side with folded sides touching, then fold edges together to create secure seam, and press seam flat. Center third sheet of foil over seam. Spray foil lightly with canola oil spray.

2. Pat salmon dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay salmon, skin side down, in center of foil. Sprinkle with vinegar, then top with tarragon sprigs and lemon slices. Fold foil up over salmon to create seam on top and gently fold foil edges together to secure, leaving small air pocket at top.

3. Lay foil-wrapped fish directly on oven rack (without baking sheet) and cook until opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 to 140 degrees, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Remove fish from oven, open foil, and let salmon cool for 30 minutes. Pour off any accumulated liquid. Reseal salmon in foil and refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour. (Poached salmon can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Let salmon sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)

5. Unwrap salmon and brush away lemon slices, tarragon sprigs, and any solidified poaching liquid. Carefully transfer fish to serving platter, sprinkle with minced tarragon, and serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 380 • Total Fat 25g • Sat Fat 6g • Chol 100mg

Sodium 340mg • Total Carbs 0g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 37g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0

Salmon Tacos with Super Slaw

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS California-style fish tacos generally feature deep-fried fish, a tangy cabbage slaw, and a creamy sauce. We wanted to boost the nutrition of each element for a supercharged take on tacos. Since we were forgoing the frying, we opted for salmon, which is richer than the more typically used cod or other white fish. A flavorful spice rub gave the fillets a nice crust. For a slaw that would stand up to the salmon, we wondered if we could incorporate nutrient-rich dark leafy greens, and collards proved just the ticket. When thinly sliced, they required no precooking. Combined with crunchy radishes, cooling jícama, red onion, cilantro, and lime, they perfectly complemented the fish. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into four pieces ourselves. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the fillets until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page. You can substitute 2 cups thinly sliced purple cabbage for the collards if desired.

¼ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice, plus lime wedges for serving

Salt and pepper

4 ounces collard greens, stemmed and sliced thin (2 cups)

4 ounces jícama, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long matchsticks

4 radishes, trimmed and cut into 1-inch-long matchsticks

½ small red onion, halved and sliced thin

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves

1½ teaspoons chili powder

1 (1½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 inch thick

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into ½-inch pieces

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed

Hot sauce

1. Whisk lime zest and juice and ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add collards, jícama, radishes, onion, and cilantro and toss to combine.

2. Combine chili powder, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Cut salmon crosswise into 4 fillets. Pat dry with paper towels and sprinkle evenly with spice mixture. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Cook salmon, skin side up, until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Gently flip salmon using 2 spatulas and continue to cook until salmon is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer salmon to plate and let cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Using 2 forks, flake fish into 2-inch pieces, discarding skin.

3. Divide fish, collard slaw, and avocado evenly among tortillas, and drizzle with hot sauce to taste. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 440 • Total Fat 24g • Sat Fat 4.5g • Chol 60mg

Sodium 490mg • Total Carbs 29g • Fiber 6g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 27g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Farmed and Wild Salmon Are Both Healthy

We love salmon because it’s rich without being aggressively fishy. Salmon’s rich flavor is due to how its fat is stored: Unlike the fat in white fish, which is mostly stored in the liver, the fat in salmon is spread throughout the flesh (much of it in the form of healthy omega-3 fatty acids). Wild salmon is praised for its optimal fat content (and flavor), but both wild and farm-raised salmon contain high levels of omega-3 fats. The farm-raised variety actually has higher absolute levels of omega-3s and higher total fat; also, the saturated fat content of farmed salmon may be higher than wild. Because wild salmon is leaner than farmed, it can be prone to overcooking, so we cook it to a slightly lower temperature.

SPECIES	WILD VS. FARMED	FAT (GRAMS PER 100G FLESH)	IDEAL INTERNAL TEMP. (F)
Atlantic	Farmed	13.42	125
King (Chinook)	Wild	11.73	120
Sockeye (Red)	Wild	7.28	120
Coho (Silver)	Wild	5.57	120
Chum	Wild	3.67	120

Salmon Cakes with Lemon-Herb Sauce

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A good salmon cake delivers rich flavor and tender texture; the best veers away from flavor-muting binders at all costs. We used a food processor to coarsely chop salmon so it is not overly dense. A single slice of whole-wheat bread provided just enough binding without compromising flavor, and a combination of shallot, parsley, mustard, and capers complemented the salmon; a bit of yogurt ensured our patties would stay moist. We sautéed the patties rather than placing then inside the oven for better control over the heat, resulting in perfectly cooked cakes with great color. A quick lemon-parsley sauce built on a base of equal parts yogurt and mayonnaise added a touch of class. Be sure to use raw salmon here; do not substitute cooked or canned salmon. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat than farmed salmon, cook the cakes until they register 120 degrees (for medium-rare). For information on salmon, see this page. Don’t overprocess the salmon in step 2, or the cakes will have a pasty texture.

¼ cup low-fat plain yogurt

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

1 scallion, minced

Salt and pepper

1 shallot, minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and minced

1 (1¼-ounce) slice hearty 100 percent whole-wheat sandwich bread, crust removed, torn into 1-inch pieces

1 pound skinless salmon fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Combine 2 tablespoons yogurt, 1 tablespoon parsley, mayonnaise, lemon juice, scallion, and pinch pepper in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Whisk shallot, remaining 2 tablespoons yogurt, remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, mustard, capers, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl.

2. Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 4 pulses, then transfer to bowl with shallot mixture. Working in 2 batches, pulse salmon in now-empty food processor until coarsely ground, about 4 pulses; transfer to bowl with bread crumbs and gently toss until well combined. Pat salmon mixture into four ¾-inch-thick cakes, about 4 inches in diameter.

3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Gently add cakes to skillet and cook until browned and centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes per side. Serve with sauce and lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 340 • Total Fat 23g • Sat Fat 4.5g • Chol 65mg

Sodium 350mg • Total Carbs 4g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 25g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

1. Using tip of boning knife (or sharp chef’s knife), begin to cut skin away from fish at corner of fillet.

2. When enough skin is exposed, grasp skin firmly with piece of paper towel, hold taut, and carefully slice flesh off skin.

Lemony Steamed Spa Fish

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This method for cooking sole fillets is the essence of simplicity and requires nothing more than a Dutch oven and a steamer basket. Since sole fillets are so thin and delicate, the trick here is to roll each fillet into a tiny bundle. To infuse them with a touch of lemony flavor, we lined the steamer basket with lemon rounds and then also covered the fish bundles with more rounds before steaming them. You can substitute flounder for the sole. Do not use fillets thinner than ¼ inch as they will overcook very quickly. Serve with one of the sauces on this page–this page, if desired.

2 lemons, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds, plus lemon wedges for serving

4 (6-ounce) sole fillets, ¼ to ½ inch thick

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh chives, tarragon, cilantro, basil, or parsley

1. Place steamer basket in Dutch oven and add water until it just touches bottom of basket. Line basket with half of lemon slices, cover pot, and bring water to boil over high heat. Meanwhile, pat sole dry with paper towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roll each fillet into bundle.

2. Reduce heat to medium-low and bring water to simmer. Lay fish bundles in basket, seam-side down, and top with remaining lemon slices. Cover pot and steam until sole flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Gently transfer fish bundles to individual serving plates (discarding lemon slices), sprinkle with herbs, and serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 120 • Total Fat 3.5g • Sat Fat 1g • Chol 75mg

Sodium 280mg • Total Carbs 0g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 21g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0

With the sole fillets skinned-side up, roll the fillets into tight bundles, starting at the tail end.

Sautéed Sole

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Delicate sole tastes great when sautéed in flavorful, heart-healthy olive oil. First, though, we give it a light coating of flour, which protects the fish and creates just a bit of a browned crust during sautéing. You can substitute flounder for the sole. Fish fillets are sold in a range of sizes. Do not use fillets thinner than ¼ inch, as they will overcook very quickly. Serve with one of the sauces on this page–this page, if desired.

½ cup all-purpose flour

8 (2-ounce) skinless sole fillets, ¼ to ½ inch thick

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Lemon wedges

1. Place flour in shallow dish. Pat sole dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Working with 1 fillet at a time, dredge in flour to coat, shaking off any excess.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Place half of sole in skillet and cook until lightly browned on first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Gently flip sole using 2 spatulas and continue to cook until sole flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, 30 to 60 seconds.

3. Transfer sole to serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels and repeat with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and fillets. Serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 220 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 50mg

Sodium 240mg • Total Carbs 3g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 14g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Cod in Coconut Broth with Lemon Grass and Ginger

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We liked the idea of bathing lean, mineral-rich cod in a flavorful liquid with lots of aromatics. A Thai-style approach drew upon the flavors of coconut soup to build a lush broth seasoned with lemon grass, ginger, and garlic. Poaching the cod in this broth ensured the flavors infused the fish and allowed it to cook gently and evenly. Mild leeks and sweet carrots complemented the delicate cod, a little coconut milk added richness, and a bit of fish sauce added a savory note. A garnish of peanuts, cilantro, and a serrano chile added welcome color, aroma, and crunch. Best of all, this dish came together quickly and in just one pan, making it an elegant but weeknight-friendly meal. You can substitute halibut, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the cod. If you can’t find a serrano chile, substitute a red Fresno chile.

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 cup water

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long matchsticks

1 (10-inch) stalk lemon grass, trimmed to bottom 6 inches and bruised with back of knife

4 (6-ounce) skinless cod fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

Salt and pepper

⅓ cup canned light coconut milk

1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

1 teaspoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons chopped dry-roasted peanuts

2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves

1 serrano chile, stemmed and sliced thin

1. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add leek and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

2. Stir in water, carrots, and lemon grass and bring to simmer. Pat cod dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Nestle fish into skillet and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 8 to 12 minutes.

3. Carefully transfer fish to individual shallow serving bowls. Discard lemon grass. Using slotted spoon, divide leeks and carrots evenly among bowls. Off heat, whisk coconut milk, lime juice, and fish sauce into broth and season with pepper to taste. Ladle broth over fish. Sprinkle with peanuts, cilantro, and chile. Serve with lime wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 250 • Total Fat 8g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 75mg

Sodium 290mg • Total Carbs 10g • Fiber 2g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 33g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0.5

Baked Cod Provençal

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Taking inspiration from the summer markets in the south of France, we put together this simple recipe pairing meaty cod with lots of aromatics, fresh herbs, and antioxidant-rich cherry tomatoes. First we created a flavorful base on which to bake our cod: quartered cherry tomatoes, minced shallots and garlic, capers, and fresh thyme—all combined with olive oil and a little white wine. To keep our cod moist as it cooked, we rubbed it with olive oil, lemon zest, and salt and pepper. As the fish cooked, the tomatoes released their juices and softened perfectly, then mingled with all the aromatics. A sprinkling of fresh basil just before serving gave this dish a hit of bright flavor. We like to spoon the tomato mixture over the cod when serving. You can substitute halibut, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the cod.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1½ pounds cherry tomatoes, quartered

2 shallots, minced

¼ cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

Salt and pepper

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

4 (6-ounce) skinless cod fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Combine 2 teaspoons oil, tomatoes, shallots, wine, capers, garlic, thyme, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in 13 by 9-inch baking dish, stirring to combine.

2. Combine remaining 4 teaspoons oil, lemon zest, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat cod dry with paper towels then rub with oil mixture. Nestle, skinned side down, into tomato mixture.

3. Bake until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 260 • Total Fat 9g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 75mg

Sodium 350mg • Total Carbs 11g • Fiber 3g • Total Sugar 6g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 32g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Lemon-Herb Cod Fillets with Garlic Potatoes

Serves 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The magical thing about this recipe is that it is an ingenious way to cook and present cod and potatoes without resorting to tons of butter—in fact, without any butter. We simply relied on the cooking method and heart-healthy extra-virgin olive oil. We decided to cut our potatoes into thin rounds, parcook them in the microwave with garlic and olive oil, then bake the fish and the potatoes together. The fillets were nestled on top of the potatoes in a casserole dish. Lemon slices placed atop the cod basted it as it baked, and sprigs of thyme added subtle seasoning to the fish. In the oven, the potatoes got nicely crisped and infused with flavor while the fish cooked through gently and evenly. Best of all, the side dish and entrée were ready at the same time. You can substitute halibut, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the cod.

1½ pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

Salt and pepper

4 (6-ounce) skinless cod fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 lemon, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss potatoes, 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Microwave, uncovered, until potatoes are just tender, 12 to 14 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.

2. Transfer potatoes to 13 by 9-inch baking dish and press gently into even layer. Pat cod dry with paper towels, rub with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Arrange skinned side down on top of potatoes, then place thyme sprigs and lemon slices on top. Bake until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 15 to 18 minutes. Slide spatula underneath potatoes and cod and carefully transfer to individual serving plates. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 400 • Total Fat 15g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 75mg

Sodium 280mg • Total Carbs 32g • Fiber 2g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 34g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

1. Transfer microwaved potatoes to 13 by 9-inch baking dish and press gently into even layer.

2. Arrange cod skinned side down on top of potatoes, drizzle with oil, then top with thyme sprigs and lemon slices.

Nut-Crusted Cod Fillets

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Breaded and fried fish is undeniably delicious when done right, but we wanted a more nutritious path to moist, delicate fish with a crunchy coating, not to mention avoiding the hassle of deep-frying. Baking instead of frying was an obvious starting point, but we also wanted to rework the coating. We replaced half the bread crumbs with ground pistachios, which offered more nutrients as well as richness and fragrance. We skipped traditional bread crumbs, which are prone to sogginess, and opted for whole-wheat panko. Toasting the two components together with aromatics brought out their flavors and ensured the topping would remain extra crisp. To help the coating adhere to the fillets, we brushed the vitamin B–rich fish with a mixture of yogurt, egg yolk, and lemon zest before pressing on the crumbs. Because our crust was so flavorful, we only needed to coat the tops of the fillets, making them easy to bake without crumbs falling off the sides or getting soggy underneath. Baking the fillets on a wire rack set in a baking sheet ensured even cooking. You can substitute halibut, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the cod. Any nut will work for the topping, but we particularly liked pistachios and hazelnuts.

½ cup shelled unsalted pistachios

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 large shallot, minced

Salt and pepper

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

½ cup 100 percent whole-wheat panko bread crumbs

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon plain low-fat yogurt

1 large egg yolk

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

4 (6-ounce) skinless cod fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet and spray lightly with canola oil spray. Process pistachios in food processor until finely chopped, 20 to 30 seconds. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and ⅛ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium-low and add pistachios, panko, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until well browned and crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer nut mixture to shallow dish and let cool for 10 minutes. Stir in parsley.

2. Whisk yogurt, egg yolk, and lemon zest together in bowl. Pat cod dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Brush tops of fillets evenly with yogurt mixture. Working with 1 fillet at a time, dredge brushed side in nut mixture, pressing gently to adhere.

3. Transfer cod, crumb side up, to prepared rack and bake until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Carefully transfer fish to individual serving plates and serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 290 • Total Fat 13g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 120mg

Sodium 320mg • Total Carbs 8g • Fiber 2g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 34g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0.5

Pan-Roasted Halibut with Chermoula

SERVES 8

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cooks often pan-roast or sauté halibut because browning adds great flavor, but it can be a challenge to keep the fish from drying out. We didn’t want to compromise on either texture or flavor, so we set out to develop a technique for cooking halibut that would produce perfectly cooked and tender fish with good browning. A combination of pan searing and oven roasting proved best. When they were done, the steaks were browned but still moist inside. We took our fish to the next level by serving it with chermoula, a zesty Moroccan dressing featuring a hefty amount of cilantro leaves, a great source of essential minerals and more. If 2 full halibut steaks aren’t available, you can substitute four 6-ounce steaks. If halibut isn’t available, you can substitute eight 6-ounce skin-on swordfish steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick; be sure to adjust the cooking time in step 3 as needed. You will need a 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet for this recipe.

CHERMOULA

¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

HALIBUT

2 (1½-pound) skin-on full halibut steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick and 10 to 12 inches long, trimmed of cartilage at both ends (see this page)

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. FOR THE CHERMOULA Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; set aside for serving.

2. FOR THE HALIBUT Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Pat halibut dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place halibut in skillet and cook until well browned on first side, about 5 minutes.

3. Gently flip halibut using 2 spatulas and transfer skillet to oven. Roast until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 6 to 9 minutes.

4. Carefully transfer halibut to cutting board. Remove skin from steaks and separate each quadrant of meat from bones by slipping knife or spatula between them (see this page). Divide chermoula evenly among steaks and serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 230 • Total Fat 12g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 70mg

Sodium 230mg • Total Carbs 1g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 26g • Total Carbohydrate Choices < 0.5

Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When it comes to methods for cooking fish, braising is often overlooked. But the approach, which requires cooking the fish in a small amount of liquid so that it gently simmers and steams, has a lot going for it. As a moist-heat cooking method, braising is gentle and thus forgiving, all but guaranteeing tender fish. Plus, it makes a great one-pot meal since it’s easy to add vegetables to the pan to cook at the same time, and the cooking liquid becomes a sauce. We chose halibut for its sweet, delicate flavor and its firm texture, which made for easier handling, and paired it with the classic French flavors of leeks, white wine, and Dijon mustard. Because the portion of the fillets submerged in liquid cooks more quickly than the upper half that cooks in the steam, we cooked the fillets for a few minutes in the pan on just one side and then braised them parcooked side up to even out the cooking. For the cooking liquid, wine supplemented by the juices released by the fish and leeks during cooking delivered a sauce with balanced flavor and just the right amount of brightness. You can substitute cod, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the halibut.

4 (6-ounce) skinless halibut fillets, ¾ to 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

¾ cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Lemon wedges

1. Pat halibut dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until warm, about 15 seconds. Place halibut skinned side up in skillet and cook until bottom half of halibut begins to turn opaque (halibut should not brown), about 4 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, carefully transfer halibut raw side down to large plate.

2. Add leeks, mustard, and ⅛ teaspoon salt to oil left in skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until softened, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in wine and bring to simmer. Place halibut raw side down on top of leeks. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer gently until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 6 to 10 minutes. Carefully transfer halibut to serving platter, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing leeks.

3. Return leeks to high heat and simmer briskly until mixture is thickened slightly, 2 to 4 minutes. Season with pepper to taste. Arrange leek mixture around halibut and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 350 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 85mg

Sodium 380mg • Total Carbs 8g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 32g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

VARIATIONS

Braised Halibut with Carrots and Coriander

Substitute 1 pound carrots, peeled and shaved with vegetable peeler into ribbons, and 4 shallots, halved and sliced thin, for leeks. Substitute ½ teaspoon ground coriander for Dijon mustard and stir 1½ teaspoons lemon juice into carrot mixture in step 3 before seasoning with pepper. Substitute minced fresh cilantro for parsley.

PER SERVING

Cal 390 • Total Fat 17g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 85mg

Sodium 420mg • Total Carbs 17g • Fiber 4g • Total Sugar 8g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 33g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Braised Halibut with Fennel and Tarragon

Substitute two 10-ounce fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, bulbs halved, cored, and sliced thin, and 4 shallots, halved and sliced thin, for leeks. Omit Dijon mustard and stir 1 teaspoon lemon juice into fennel mixture in step 3 before seasoning with pepper. Substitute minced fresh tarragon for parsley.

PER SERVING

Cal 380 • Total Fat 17g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 85mg

Sodium 410mg • Total Carbs 17g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 8g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 34g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Halibut Baked in Foil with Tomatoes and Zucchini

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Baking halibut en papillote—in a tightly sealed package to steam in its own juices—is a quick, mess-free way to enhance the fish’s mild flavor, and including vegetables in the pouch is a surefire path to a healthful satisfying meal. Using aluminum foil rather than parchment made packet construction easy. For vegetables, we started with zucchini (salted to remove excess moisture), which would cook in the same amount of time as the fish. To give our packets plenty of flavor without overpowering the halibut, we made a tomato salsa, which added just the right kick. A splash of white wine boosted the flavor even more. The sealed packets needed only 15 to 20 minutes in the oven to steam and baste the fish and soften the zucchini. You can substitute cod, haddock, red snapper, or sea bass for the halibut. To prevent overcooking, open each packet promptly after baking.

1 pound zucchini, sliced crosswise into ¼-inch-thick rounds

Salt and pepper

3 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 (6-ounce) skinless halibut fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

¼ cup dry white wine

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

Lemon wedges

1. Toss zucchini with ⅛ teaspoon salt and let drain in colander for 30 minutes; pat zucchini dry with paper towels, pressing firmly to remove as much liquid as possible. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.

2. Combine tomatoes, oil, garlic, oregano, pepper flakes, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat halibut dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

3. Cut eight 12-inch sheets of aluminum foil; arrange 4 flat on counter. Shingle zucchini in center of foil sheets and sprinkle with wine. Place halibut on top of zucchini, then top halibut with tomato mixture. Place remaining pieces of foil on top. Press edges of foil together and fold together several times until each packet is well sealed and measures about 7 inches square. (Packets can be refrigerated for up to 3 hours before cooking. Increase baking time to 20 to 25 minutes when made ahead.)

4. Place packets on rimmed baking sheet, overlapping as needed, and bake until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. (To check temperature, poke thermometer through foil into halibut.)

5. Carefully open packets, allowing steam to escape away from you, and gently slide halibut, vegetables, and any accumulated juices onto individual serving plates. Sprinkle with basil and serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 260 • Total Fat 10g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 85mg

Sodium 320mg • Total Carbs 7g • Fiber 2g • Total Sugar 4g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 34g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0.5

1. Shingle vegetables in center of foil.

2. Place halibut on top of zucchini, then spoon tomato mixture over fish.

3. Place remaining pieces of foil on top and fold edges of foil together to create well-sealed packet.

Halibut en Cocotte with Cherry Tomatoes

SERVES 8

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pairing fresh fish with olive oil and nutritionally valuable cherry tomatoes has many benefits, including the fact that the cherry tomatoes soften into a nearly spoonable, delicious sauce during the cooking time. Here we cook our fish en cocotte, a time-honored French approach to cooking meat and even fish in a large covered pot in a very low oven. Essentially, the fish is braised low and slow for the ultimate tender texture while being infused with aromatics and herbs. For our recipe we selected two similar-size halibut steaks (the steaks have cartilage at either end that contains small bones). After we cut off the cartilage, the steaks were ready to be braised. We started by pan-roasting garlic in olive oil to draw out its flavor, then stirred in cherry tomatoes and placed the halibut on top. As the fish cooked, the tomatoes began to break down, releasing their juices and helping to build a sauce. If 2 full halibut steaks aren’t available, you can substitute eight 6-ounce steaks. If halibut isn’t available, you can substitute four 6-ounce skin-on swordfish steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick; be sure to adjust the cooking time in step 2 as needed.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced thin

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

12 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

2 (1½-pound) skin-on full halibut steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick and 10 to 12 inches long, trimmed of cartilage at both ends

Salt and pepper

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Cook 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in Dutch oven over medium-low heat until garlic is light golden, 2 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in tomatoes, capers, and thyme.

2. Pat halibut steaks dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Lay halibut on top of tomatoes in pot. Place large sheet of aluminum foil over pot and press to seal, then cover with lid. Transfer pot to oven and cook until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes.

3. Gently transfer halibut to serving platter and tent loosely with foil. Simmer tomato mixture over medium-high heat until thickened slightly, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with pepper to taste. Spoon sauce evenly over halibut and serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 170 • Total Fat 5g • Sat Fat 1g • Chol 70mg

Sodium 160mg • Total Carbs 2g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 27g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

1. BEFORE COOKING Cut off the cartilage at the ends of the steaks so they will fit neatly in the pan and to eliminate the risk that small bones will end up on your dinner plate.

2. TO SERVE Remove the skin from the cooked steaks and separate the quadrants of meat from the bone by slipping a spatula or knife gently between them.

Pan-Roasted Sea Bass with Wild Mushrooms

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This flavorful recipe is a great way to pack mushrooms into your meal—a very good thing as they provide B vitamins and are rich sources of minerals. And dried mushrooms, which are in the mix here as well, just concentrate those nutrients. For a sea bass and mushroom dinner, we liked a combination of full-flavored cremini and portobellos, with a small amount of dried porcini for a deep, woodsy flavor. We first tried sautéing the mushrooms and fish separately, but the result lacked unity. We decided to add the fish to the sautéed mushrooms in a hot skillet and then slide the pan into the oven, so the fish and the mushrooms melded in flavor, and the porcini liquid reduced to a light, flavorful sauce. You can substitute cod, halibut, haddock, or red snapper for the sea bass.

½ cup water

⅓ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed

4 (6-ounce) skinless sea bass fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and halved if small or quartered if large

12 ounces portobello mushroom caps, halved and sliced ½ inch thick

1 red onion, halved and sliced thin

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Lemon wedges

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Microwave water and porcini mushrooms in covered bowl until steaming, about 1 minute. Let sit until softened, about 5 minutes. Drain mushrooms in fine-mesh strainer lined with coffee filter, reserving porcini liquid, and mince mushrooms.

2. Pat sea bass dry with paper towels, rub with 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

3. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil and rosemary in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add cremini mushrooms, portobello mushrooms, onion, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their liquid and are beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and minced porcini mushrooms and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

4. Off heat, stir in reserved porcini liquid. Nestle sea bass skinned side down into skillet, transfer to oven, and roast until sea bass flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 18g • Sat Fat 3g • Chol 70mg

Sodium 430mg • Total Carbs 11g • Fiber 2g • Total Sugar 6g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 36g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Reheating Fish

Fish is notoriously susceptible to overcooking, so reheating previously cooked fillets is something that makes nearly all cooks balk. But since almost everyone has leftover fish from time to time, we decided to figure out the best approach to warming it up.

As we had suspected, we had far more success reheating thick fillets and steaks than thin ones. Both swordfish and halibut steaks reheated nicely, retaining their moisture well and with no detectable change in flavor. But there was little we could do to prevent mackerel from drying out and overcooking when heated a second time; so we recommend serving leftover cooked thin fish in cold applications like salads.

To reheat thicker fish fillets, use this gentle approach: Place the fillets on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, cover them with foil (to prevent the exteriors of the fish from drying out), and heat them in a 275-degree oven until they register 125 to 130 degrees, about 15 minutes for 1-inch-thick fillets (timing varies according to fillet size).

Grilled Sea Bass with Citrus and Black Olive Salad

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: At its best, grilled sea bass boasts firm, moist flesh under a crisp, seared exterior, but many recipes turn out underdone, fishy-tasting fillets. To bring out the best in our grilled sea bass, we started by seeking out thick fillets. Sea bass skin is too tough to eat, so we removed it and rubbed the fish with oil to keep it from sticking to the grill. Unlike other meaty cuts of fish, grilling this fillet all the way through—cooking over the hottest part of the grill for up to 10 minutes before finishing on the cooler side—produced the best flavor; salting the fish before grilling also helped prevent any off-flavors. In under 20 minutes, the sea bass had taken on great flavorful char, but these rich fillets deserved a bright, fresh accompaniment. A zesty, fiber-rich citrus salad of orange and grapefruit segments, balanced out with chopped kalamata olives and a blend of cumin and paprika, paired perfectly with the fish. You can substitute cod, halibut, haddock, or red snapper for the sea bass. Use only the citrus pieces in the relish, not the juices, which will water down the flavor and texture.

2 oranges

1 red grapefruit

¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon paprika

Pinch cayenne pepper

4 (6-ounce) skinless sea bass fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

1. Cut away peel and pith from oranges and grapefruit. Quarter oranges, then slice crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Cut grapefruit into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Combine oranges, grapefruit, olives, parsley, cumin, paprika, and cayenne in bowl. Cover and set aside for serving.

2. Pat sea bass dry with paper towels, rub with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

3B. FOR A GAS GRILL Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium-low.

4. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well oiled paper towels until grate is black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Place sea bass on hotter part of grill and cook, uncovered, until well browned, about 10 minutes, gently flipping fillets using 2 spatulas halfway through cooking.

5. Gently move sea bass to cooler part of grill and cook, uncovered, until sea bass flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 3 to 6 minutes. Transfer to serving platter and serve with salad.

PER SERVING

Cal 300 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 70mg

Sodium 270mg • Total Carbs 16g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 11g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 33g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Buying and Storing Fish

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Always buy fish from a trusted source (preferably one with high volume to help ensure freshness). The store, and the fish in it, should smell like the sea, not fishy or sour. And all the fish should be on ice or properly refrigerated. Fillets and steaks should look bright, shiny, and firm, not dull or mushy. Whole fish should have moist, taut skin, clear eyes, and bright red gills.

WHAT TO ASK FOR It is always better to have your fishmonger slice steaks and fillets to order rather than buying precut pieces that may have been sitting around. Don’t be afraid to be picky at the seafood counter; a ragged piece of hake or a tail end of sea bass will be difficult to cook properly. It is important to keep your fish cold, so if you have a long ride home, ask your fishmonger for a bag of ice.

BUYING FROZEN FISH Thin fish fillets like flounder and sole are the best choice if you have to buy your fish frozen, because they freeze quickly, minimizing moisture loss. Firm fillets like halibut, snapper, and swordfish are acceptable to buy frozen if cooked beyond medium-rare, but at lower degrees of doneness they will have a dry, stringy texture. When buying frozen fish, make sure it is frozen solid, with no signs of freezer burn or excessive crystallization around the edges and no blood in the packaging. The ingredients should include only the name of the fish you are buying.

DEFROSTING FISH To defrost fish in the refrigerator overnight, remove the fish from its packaging, place it in a single layer on a rimmed plate or dish, and cover it with plastic wrap. You can also do a “quick thaw” by leaving the vacuum-sealed bags under cool running tap water for 30 minutes. Do not use a microwave to defrost fish; it will alter the texture of the fish or, worse, partially cook it. Dry the fish thoroughly with paper towels before seasoning and cooking it.

HOW TO STORE FISH Because fish is so perishable, it’s best to buy it the day it will be cooked. If that’s not possible, it’s important to store it properly. When you get home, unwrap the fish, pat it dry, put it in a zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal the bag. Then set the fish on a bed of ice in a bowl that can hold the water once the ice melts, and place it in the back of the fridge, where it is coldest. If the ice melts before you use the fish, replenish it. The fish should keep for one day.

Poached Snapper with Sherry-Tomato Vinaigrette

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Poaching fish fillets in olive oil is a popular Italian and French technique that delivers supermoist, delicately cooked fish that makes the most of heart-healthy oil as a cooking medium. In our recipe the oil pulled double duty: We poached the fish in it, and then blended the oil into a bright tomato vinaigrette for serving. We placed half an onion in the skillet to displace the oil so it would come up higher in the pan—and we could use less of it. After adding the fish, we moved the skillet to the even heat of the oven. You can substitute sea bass, cod, halibut, or haddock for the snapper. You will need a 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet with a lid for this recipe.

4 (6-ounce) skinless red snapper fillets, 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ onion, peeled

6 ounces cherry tomatoes (2 ounces cut into ⅛-inch-thick rounds)

½ small shallot, peeled

4 teaspoons sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Pat snapper dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

2. Heat oil in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until registers 180 degrees. Off heat, place onion half in center of skillet. Arrange fillets skinned side up around onion (oil should come roughly halfway up fillets) and spoon some oil over each fillet. Cover, transfer skillet to oven, and cook for 15 minutes.

3. Remove skillet from oven (skillet handle will be hot), then carefully flip fillets using 2 spatulas. Cover and continue to bake snapper until it registers 130 to 135 degrees, 9 to 14 minutes. Carefully transfer snapper to serving platter, reserving ¼ cup oil, and tent loosely with aluminum foil.

4. Process reserved ¼ cup fish cooking oil, whole tomatoes, shallot, vinegar, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add any accumulated fish juices and blend for 10 seconds. Strain sauce through fine-mesh strainer into bowl; discard solids. To serve, spoon vinaigrette around fish. Garnish each fillet with parsley and tomato rounds. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 310 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 65mg

Sodium 330mg • Total Carbs 2g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 35g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Swordfish en Cocotte with Shallots, Cucumber, and Mint

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The premise behind the French method of cooking en cocotte (or casserole roasting) is to slow down the cooking process in order to concentrate flavor. Fish cooked for an extended period of time usually winds up dry, but a combination of low oven temperature, moist-heat environment, and the right cut of fish allows it to remain juicy and tender. We found that meaty swordfish steaks were particularly well suited to cooking en cocotte. The fresh Mediterranean flavors of mint, parsley, lemon, and garlic easily combined with sliced cucumber to make an insulating layer on which to cook the fish; we then turned the cucumber mixture into a complementary, flavorful topping for serving. It is important to choose steaks that are similar in size and thickness to ensure that each piece cooks at the same rate. You can substitute skin-on halibut for the swordfish.

¾ cup fresh mint leaves

¼ cup fresh parsley leaves

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt and pepper

3 shallots, sliced thin

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and sliced thin

4 (6-ounce) skin-on swordfish steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Process mint, parsley, 3 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin, cayenne, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add shallots, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in processed mint mixture and cucumber.

3. Pat swordfish dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Place swordfish on top of cucumber-mint mixture. Place large sheet of aluminum foil over pot and press to seal, then cover with lid. Transfer pot to oven and cook until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes.

4. Transfer swordfish to serving platter. Season cucumber-mint mixture with pepper to taste, then spoon evenly over swordfish. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 440 • Total Fat 29g • Sat Fat 5g • Chol 110mg

Sodium 300mg • Total Carbs 8g • Fiber 3g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 35g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0.5

Grilled Swordfish with Eggplant, Tomato, and Chickpea Salad

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Here grilled swordfish is paired with a salad packed with nutrients and fiber from a trio of eggplant, tomatoes, and nutty chickpeas. Since meaty swordfish stands up so well to grilling, we decided to grill swordfish steaks simultaneously with some eggplant for a quick and elegant grilled dinner. We gave a flavor boost to the fish by coating it with a paste of cilantro, onion, garlic, and warm spices (reserving part of the paste to dress the eggplant salad), which then bloomed over the hot fire. We removed the fish when the interior was just opaque since it would cook a little more from residual heat as it rested while we prepared the accompanying vegetables. After grilling the eggplant until soft and charred, we chopped it into chunks and mixed it with juicy cherry tomatoes and canned chickpeas, then dressed it with the remaining cilantro mixture for an easy and vibrant salad. You can substitute halibut for the swordfish.

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves

½ red onion, chopped coarse

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Salt and pepper

4 (6-ounce) skin-on swordfish steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick

1 large eggplant, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds

6 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt added chickpeas, rinsed

1. Process cilantro, onion, 3 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin, paprika, cayenne, cinnamon, and ¼ teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Measure out and reserve ½ cup cilantro mixture. Transfer remaining cilantro mixture to large bowl and set aside.

2. Brush swordfish with reserved ½ cup cilantro mixture. Brush eggplant with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over half of grill, then pour remaining coals over other half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

3B. FOR A GAS GRILL Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium-high.

4. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Place swordfish and eggplant on hotter part of grill. Cook swordfish, uncovered, until streaked with dark grill marks, 6 to 9 minutes, gently flipping steaks using 2 spatulas halfway through cooking. Cook eggplant, flipping as needed, until softened and lightly charred, about 8 minutes; transfer to bowl and cover with aluminum foil.

5. Gently move swordfish to cooler part of grill and continue to cook, uncovered, until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 3 minutes per side; transfer to serving platter and tent loosely with foil.

6. Coarsely chop eggplant and add to bowl with cilantro mixture along with tomatoes and chickpeas. Gently toss to combine and season with pepper to taste. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 530 • Total Fat 30g • Sat Fat 5g • Chol 110mg

Sodium 380mg • Total Carbs 25g • Fiber 8g • Total Sugar 7g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 40g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1.5

Grilled Fish Tacos

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Flavorful grilled fish tacos can be a crowd-pleasing dinner option when done right. Unfortunately, many home cooks fall into a classic pitfall by either overcooking the fish or drowning the fresh flavor in a thick sauce. To make a flavorful, and foolproof, recipe we started by examining the classic cooking issues. Flaky fish like cod or snapper often ends up sticking to the grill, so we turned to meatier swordfish. Cutting the fish into even 1-inch strips ensured that each piece would finish cooking at the same time, and avoided dry, tough meat. To give our fish complex flavor in the time it took to set up the grill, we made a marinade of chile powders, garlic, oregano, coriander, and tomato paste. For a delicious pairing to our spiced swordfish we made an aromatic slaw and added a hefty amount of avocado slices. You can substitute halibut for the swordfish.

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon canola oil

1 tablespoon ancho chile powder

2 teaspoons chipotle chile powder

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon ground coriander

Salt

2 tablespoons no-salt-added tomato paste

½ cup orange juice

¼ cup lime juice (2 limes), plus wedges for serving

1½ pounds skinless swordfish steaks, 1 inch thick, cut lengthwise into 1-inch-wide strips

½ small head green cabbage, cored and sliced thin (4 cups)

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

3 scallions, sliced thin

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas

2 avocados, halved, pitted, and sliced thin

1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil, ancho chile powder, and chipotle chile powder in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and some bubbles form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, coriander, and ¾ teaspoon salt and continue to cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. Add tomato paste and, using spatula, mash tomato paste with spice mixture until combined, about 20 seconds. Stir in orange juice and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly mixed and reduced slightly, about 2 minutes. Transfer chile mixture to large bowl and let cool for 15 minutes.

2. Add swordfish to bowl with chile mixture and stir gently with rubber spatula to coat fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

3. Meanwhile, combine cabbage, cilantro, scallions, remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice, remaining 1 teaspoon oil, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl.

4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

4B. FOR A GAS GRILL Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.

5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange swordfish over grill. Cover and cook until fish has begun to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Using thin spatula, turn fish. Cover and continue to cook until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to large platter, flake into pieces, and tent with aluminum foil.

6. Clean cooking grate. Place half of tortillas on grill. Cook on each side until softened and speckled with brown spots, 30 to 45 seconds per side. Wrap tortillas in dish towel or foil to keep warm. Repeat with remaining tortillas. Divide flaked fish, avocado, and slaw evenly among tortillas. Serve with lime wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 500 • Total Fat 25g • Sat Fat 3.5g • Chol 75mg

Sodium 530mg • Total Carbs 44g • Fiber 12g • Total Sugar 9g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 29g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

Pan-Seared Sesame-Crusted Tuna Steaks

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Moist and rare in the middle with a seared crust, pan-seared tuna is a popular entrée in restaurants. We set out to determine the best method for preparing this simple dish at home. The consensus in the test kitchen was to create a master recipe for four 6-ounce steaks cooked in one batch in one pan. Starting with high-quality tuna—sushi grade if possible—is paramount; we prefer the flavor of yellowfin. After testing ¾-inch-thick steaks, we found that a thickness of at least 1 inch is necessary to achieve both good browning on the exterior of the tuna and a rare center. We started with a very hot skillet and 2 tablespoons of oil. Unfortunately, the tuna did not develop the deep brown crust that we were after. We tried using more fat to cook the very lean fish, as well as dipping the tuna in balsamic vinegar (in hopes that the sugar in the vinegar would help caramelize the crust), which gave our fish a darker color, but the crunch was still missing. We realized that we would need some sort of coating for the steaks in order to get a crispy, crunchy crust. Crushed peppercorns and spice rubs interfered with the tuna’s flavor, but neutral sesame seeds were a big hit with tasters. Before searing the tuna in a nonstick skillet, we rubbed the steaks with oil and then coated them with sesame seeds; the oil helped the seeds stick to the fish. The sesame seeds browned in the skillet and formed a beautiful, nutty-tasting crust. We learned that tuna, like beef, will continue to cook from residual heat when removed from the stove, so when the interior of the tuna was near the desired degree of doneness (about 110 degrees on an instant-read thermometer), we transferred it to a platter. We prefer our tuna cooked rare. If you like yours medium-rare, cook the fish in step 2 until it is opaque at the perimeter and reddish pink at the center when checked with the tip of a paring knife and it registers 125 degrees, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

¾ cup sesame seeds

4 (6-ounce) skinless tuna steaks, 1 inch thick

2 tablespoons canola oil

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

1. Spread sesame seeds in shallow baking dish. Pat tuna steaks dry with paper towels, rub steaks all over with 1 tablespoon oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Press both sides of each steak in sesame seeds to coat.

2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place steaks in skillet and cook until seeds are golden and tuna is translucent red at center when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 110 degrees (for rare), 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer tuna to cutting board and slice ½ inch thick. Serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 330 • Total Fat 15g • Sat Fat 1g • Chol 65mg

Sodium 250mg • Total Carbs 2g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 45g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

Seared Tuna with Harissa and Mushrooms

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Harissa is a traditional bright and spicy North African condiment that adds a jolt of potent flavor to any recipe it’s used in. It works well with the meaty tuna steaks and earthy mushrooms in this dish. Use harissa paste rather than harissa sauce here. Note that spiciness will vary greatly by brand. White mushrooms can be substituted for the cremini, if you prefer. We prefer our tuna cooked rare. If you like yours medium-rare, cook the fish in step 4 until it is opaque at the perimeter and reddish pink at the center when checked with the tip of a paring knife and it registers 125 degrees, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons harissa

1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

1–3 tablespoons hot water

1 shallot, halved and sliced thin

1¼ pounds cremini mushrooms, trimmed and halved if small or quartered if large

12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced ½ inch thick

Salt and pepper

1 head frisée (6 ounces), cored and cut into 1-inch pieces

4 (6-ounce) tuna steaks, 1 inch thick

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

1. Combine 1 tablespoon oil, 2 tablespoons harissa, and lemon juice in bowl. Whisk in hot water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until sauce is pourable; set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add cremini mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, and ⅛ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their liquid, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Uncover skillet, add 2 tablespoons oil, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are deep golden brown and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon harissa and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer mushrooms to bowl, add frisée, and toss to combine; set aside. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

4. Pat tuna dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place steaks in skillet and cook until translucent red at center when checked with tip of paring knife and register 110 degrees (for rare), 1 to 2 minutes per side.

5. Transfer tuna to cutting board and slice ½ inch thick. Sprinkle mint over mushroom mixture and season with pepper to taste. Drizzle tuna evenly with reserved harissa sauce and serve with mushrooms and lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 490 • Total Fat 27g • Sat Fat 4g • Chol 65mg

Sodium 360mg • Total Carbs 12g • Fiber 3g • Total Sugar 6g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 47g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Pan-Seared Shrimp with Tomato and Avocado

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Shrimp plus heart-healthy avocado, fresh cilantro, chopped tomatoes, and scallions equal a delicious, colorful, and nutrient-dense dish with satisfying Mexican flavors. Searing the shrimp quickly in batches produced the ultimate combination of well-caramelized exteriors and moist, tender interiors. This cooking method also preserved the shrimp’s juiciness and trademark briny sweetness. After the second batch was seared and removed from the pan, we made our smoky, slightly spicy sauce. Later, we returned the shrimp to the pan with the sauce to heat them through with the other elements of the dish. The cooking times are for extra-large shrimp. If this size is not available in your market, buy large shrimp and shorten the cooking time slightly. For information on shopping for shrimp, see this page. This dish is fairly spicy; to make it milder, use less chipotle.

1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined

Salt and pepper

4 teaspoons canola oil

1 pound tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

6 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

1 avocado, halved, peeled, and cut into ½-inch pieces

1. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of shrimp and cook until opaque throughout, about 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl. Repeat with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and remaining shrimp.

2. Add tomatoes, scallion whites, cilantro, garlic, lime juice, and chipotle to now-empty skillet and cook until tomatoes soften slightly, about 1 minute. Off heat, return shrimp to skillet and toss to coat. Transfer to serving platter, season with pepper to taste, and sprinkle with scallion greens and avocado. Serve with lime wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 240 • Total Fat 14g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 160mg

Sodium 350mg • Total Carbs 12g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 4g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 20g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

Grilled Marinated Shrimp Skewers

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Jolts of grill flavor and subtle heat can enhance the delicately sweet and briny flavor of shrimp, but it’s easy to overdo it. Most recipes overcook the shrimp and finish them in a bath of mouth-numbing sauce; we wanted juicy shrimp with a smoky crust and flavor that was more than just superficial. We looked to the spices of Morocco and found just the right blend: lime zest for tang, paprika to accent the smoky grill flavor, ginger and cayenne for complex heat, and cumin and plenty of garlic for a rounded earthy-sharp flavor. We left the fresh lime juice for finishing, since an acidic marinade can degrade shrimp’s texture. Once lightly charred, we flipped the skewers to finish gently cooking on the cooler side of the grill. Butterflying the shrimp before marinating and grilling them opened up more shrimp flesh for the marinade to flavor. We also packed the shrimp very tightly onto the skewers so they would cook more slowly. For information on shopping for shrimp, see box at right. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.

MARINADE

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon grated lime zest

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

SHRIMP

1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined

Pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

Lime wedges

1. FOR THE MARINADE Whisk all ingredients together in medium bowl.

2. FOR THE SHRIMP Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. Using paring knife, cut shrimp ½ inch deep down outside curve of shrimp, take care not to cut in half completely. Add shrimp to bowl with marinade and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

3B. FOR A GAS GRILL Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.

4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Thread shrimp tightly onto four 12-inch metal skewers (about 8 shrimp per skewer), alternating direction of heads and tails. Place shrimp skewers on grill (on hotter side if using charcoal). Cook (covered if using gas), without moving them, until lightly charred on first side, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip skewers and move to cooler side of grill (if using charcoal) or turn all burners off (if using gas) and cook, covered, until shrimp are opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, slide shrimp off skewers onto serving platter and season with pepper to taste. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 130 • Total Fat 8g • Sat Fat 1g • Chol 105mg

Sodium 220mg • Total Carbs 2g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 0g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 12g • Total Carbohydrate Choices <0.5

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Shopping for Shrimp: Buyer Beware

Most supermarket shrimp are frozen, so to prevent darkening or water loss during thawing, some manufacturers treat the shrimp with salt or sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP). We do not recommend cooking with STPP-treated shrimp. We have found that these preservatives can give shrimp an unpleasant, rubbery, or mushy texture and chemical flavor, as well as extra sodium. Check the ingredient list to see if your shrimp has been treated with salt or STPP; shrimp should be the only ingredient listed on the bag.

Cheesy Shrimp and Grits

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This Southern favorite pairs creamy grits and sweet briny shrimp all in one casserole dish. To give the grits as much flavor as possible, we sautéed scallions, garlic, and spicy chipotle chile in the saucepan before cooking the grits. Using milk instead of heavy cream gave the grits a nice creaminess without making them too dense, and shredded cheddar cheese added rich flavor to the grits. As for the shrimp, we simply assembled the grits in a casserole dish and nestled in the shrimp so they could easily cook through, eliminating the need for another dish. Do not substitute instant grits here. For information on shopping for shrimp, see this page.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 scallions, white parts sliced thin, green parts sliced thin on bias

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

4 cups water

½ cup 1 percent low-fat milk

Salt and pepper

1 cup old-fashioned grits

2 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (½ cup)

1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined

Lemon wedges

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add scallion whites and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic and chipotle and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water, milk, and pinch salt and bring to boil. Slowly whisk in grits. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring often, until grits are thick and creamy, about 15 minutes.

2. Off heat, stir in cheese, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper, then transfer to 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Nestle shrimp into grits, leaving tails exposed. Bake until shrimp are cooked through, about 15 minutes. Let cool slightly, then sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve with lemon wedges.

PER SERVING

Cal 330 • Total Fat 10g • Sat Fat 4g • Chol 175mg

Sodium 380mg • Total Carbs 32g • Fiber 3g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 25g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

1. Break shell under swimming legs, which will come off as shell is removed. Leave tail intact, if desired, or tug tail to remove shell.

2. Use paring knife to make shallow cut along back of shrimp to expose vein. Use tip of paring knife to lift out vein. Discard vein by wiping blade against paper towel.

Seared Scallops with Orange-Lime Dressing

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Seared scallops make for an ideal quick meal, as they cook in just a few minutes on the stovetop and have a mild flavor that works well with a wide variety of other ingredients. For this dish, we decided to punch up the scallops’ mellow sweetness with a bold vinaigrette made with citrus, cilantro, and red pepper flakes. When searing the scallops, we found that trying to cook them all at once made the pan too crowded and caused them to steam. Waiting to add the scallops to the skillet until the oil was beginning to smoke, cooking the scallops in two batches instead of one, and using a nonstick skillet allowed them all to achieve a deep golden-brown crust. Sweet, bright, and tangy, these scallops are the perfect centerpiece for a light meal—even on a busy weeknight. For information on shopping for scallops, see this page.

1½ pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed

⅛ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 small shallot, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Place scallops in rimmed baking sheet lined with clean kitchen towel. Place second clean kitchen towel on top of scallops and press gently on towel to blot liquid. Let scallops sit at room temperature, covered with towel, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle scallops with salt and pepper.

2. Whisk ¼ cup oil, orange juice, lime juice, shallot, cilantro, and pepper flakes together in bowl. Set aside for serving.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of scallops to skillet and cook, without moving them, until well browned on first side, about 1½ minutes. Flip scallops and continue to cook, without moving them, until well browned on second side, sides are firm, and centers are opaque, about 1½ minutes. Transfer scallops to serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining scallops. Whisk dressing to recombine and serve with scallops.

PER SERVING

Cal 310 • Total Fat 22g • Sat Fat 3g • Chol 40mg

Sodium 350mg • Total Carbs 7g • Fiber 0g • Total Sugar 1g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 21g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 0.5

Use your fingers to peel away the small, crescent-shaped muscle that is sometimes attached to scallops, as this tendon becomes incredibly tough when cooked.

Seared Scallops with Snap Pea and Edamame Slaw

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Scallops are a great lean protein source and make for a quick and easy summer meal. We seared the scallops quickly in canola oil, which allowed us to use the highest heat and achieve a beautifully browned exterior without overcooking the centers. For a nutrient-rich and delicious side dish, we paired our scallops with a fresh, vibrant slaw comprised of hearty edamame, crunchy snap peas and radishes, and cooling cucumber. To dress the slaw we created a blend of mayonnaise and yogurt for a lighter, cleaner-tasting dressing. A full 3 tablespoons of minced chives provided an oniony, herbal bite. For information on shopping for scallops, see this page.

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons plain low-fat yogurt

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

Salt and pepper

12 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed and sliced thin on bias

10 ounces frozen edamame, thawed

1 English cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin

6 radishes, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and sliced thin

1½ pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed

2 tablespoons canola oil

1. Whisk chives, yogurt, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice, and ⅛ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add snap peas, edamame, cucumber, and radishes and stir to coat; set aside.

2. Place scallops in rimmed baking sheet lined with clean kitchen towel. Place second clean kitchen towel on top of scallops and press gently on towel to blot liquid. Let scallops sit at room temperature, covered with towel, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle scallops with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Add half of scallops and cook, without moving them, until well browned on first side, about 1½ minutes. Flip scallops and continue to cook, without moving them, until well browned on second side, sides are firm, and centers are opaque, about 1½ minutes. Transfer scallops to serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining scallops. Serve scallops with slaw.

PER SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 45mg

Sodium 480mg • Total Carbs 22g • Fiber 6g • Total Sugar 8g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 32g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1.5

Baked Scallops with Leeks and Lemon

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This easy-to-make scallop dish is a healthier take on the classic French pairing of scallops and leeks in a cream sauce known as coquilles St. Jacques. First we sautéed sliced leeks until fully softened, then added garlic and thyme. To create our sauce, we added just a tablespoon of flour for thickening, whisking in a little white wine and milk. After seasoning our scallops, we simply placed them in the baking dish and topped them with this aromatic sauce. Once our scallops were perfectly done, which takes only about 15 minutes in the oven, we removed them from the pan and embellished the sauce left behind with lemon juice and parsley. For information on shopping for scallops, see this page.

2 teaspoons canola oil

8 ounces leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ¼ inch thick, and washed thoroughly

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

¼ cup dry white wine

¾ cup 1 percent low-fat milk

¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

Salt and pepper

1½ pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed

2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add leeks and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 30 seconds. Slowly whisk in wine and milk and simmer until sauce is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in lemon zest and season with pepper to taste.

3. Pat scallops dry with paper towels, then sprinkle with ⅛ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Arrange scallops in single layer in 8-inch square baking dish and pour sauce over top. Bake until sides are firm and centers are opaque, 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Carefully transfer scallops to serving platter, leaving sauce behind in dish. Whisk lemon juice and parsley into sauce, pour evenly over scallops, and serve.

PER SERVING

Cal 190 • Total Fat 3.5 • Sat Fat 0.5g • Chol 45mg

Sodium 370mg • Total Carbs 14g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 23g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

VARIATION

Baked Scallops with Leeks and Saffron

Add ⅛ teaspoon saffron threads with garlic and thyme. Omit lemon zest and reduce amount of lemon juice to 1½ teaspoons.

PER SERVING

Cal 190 • Total Fat 3.5g • Sat Fat 0.5g • Chol 45mg

Sodium 370mg • Total Carbs 14g • Fiber 1g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 23g • Total Carbohydrate Choices 1

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Buying Scallops

In general, most recipes use only one type of scallop—sea scallops. The other scallop varieties, bay and Calico (the latter often mislabeled as bay), are much smaller and often too rare and expensive or very cheap and rubbery.

DRY VERSUS WET SCALLOPS Wet scallops are dipped in preservatives (a solution of water and sodium tripolyphosphate, known as STPP) to extend their shelf life. Unfortunately, these watery preservatives dull the scallops’ flavor, ruin their texture, and add lots of extra sodium. Unprocessed, or dry, scallops have much more flavor and a creamy, smooth texture, plus they brown very nicely and don’t contribute as much sodium. Dry scallops look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white.

DISTINGUISHING DRY FROM WET If your scallops are not labeled, you can find out if they are wet or dry with this quick microwave test: Place one scallop on a paper towel–lined plate and microwave for 15 seconds. A dry scallop will exude very little water, but a wet scallop will leave a sizable ring of moisture on the paper towel. (The microwaved scallop can be cooked as is.)

TREATING WET SCALLOPS When you can find only wet scallops, you can hide the off-putting taste of the preservative by soaking the scallops in a solution of 1 quart of cold water, ¼ cup of lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of salt for 30 minutes. Be sure to pat the scallops very dry after soaking them. Even after this treatment, these scallops will be harder to brown than untreated dry scallops. Note that these scallops will also be higher in sodium.