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STRATEGIES FOR ATTRACTING MUSLIM TOURISTS WITHOUT OBTAINING HALAL CERTIFICATION
A case study of Takayama City in Japan
Introduction
In recent years, restaurants and accommodation in Japan have focused attention on halal certification as a way to attract foreign Muslim tourists. Academics are showing an interest in this trend as reflected in a sharp increase in the number of Japanese papers that include the term “halal” in the title, growing from a mere six papers in 2010 to 96 papers in 2014, and 47 papers in 2016 (according to the extensive CiNii database of academic articles). However, some of these papers have stressed the fact that halal certification has moved away from its original religious context and today is more likely to be traded as a commodity (Tawada 2012; Namikawa 2014), while other papers have cautioned against over-relying on halal certification (Namikawa 2013; Takeshita 2014; Kawabata 2015).
Food and meals have been viewed as key areas of consumption through which social and cultural boundaries of inclusion and exclusion are defined (Becher 2008), and have also had an enormous impact on shaping and sustaining religious belief and ethnic identity. Food and meals can become a special problem for Muslims travelling or residing in non-Muslim countries, but opinion is divided as to whether the host country should offer halal certification or not.
An increasing number of restaurants and accommodation in Japan have become halal certified to entice Muslim tourists, but Takayama City in Gifu Prefecture is the first Japanese municipality to develop a novel strategy for attracting Muslim tourists without obtaining halal certification. The owners of restaurants and accommodation, as well as city administrators have come together and adopted two basic strategies for attracting Muslim tourists: first they agreed to disclose all ingredients on menus so tourists can make informed decisions as to whether a food item is halal or not, and second they are committed to only serving Japanese food that does not include pork or alcohol.
This chapter will first present an overview of the current status of halal certification in Japan. Then, based on interviews with Muslim tourists in Takayama, it assesses the primary issues faced by Muslims travelling in Japan, and the effectiveness of Takayama’s strategies for enticing Muslim travellers without obtaining halal certification.
Status of halal certification in Japan
Halal certification may be obtained in Japan in one of two ways. First, halal certification may be acquired from an organisation that is authorised by Malaysia’s JAKIM (Jabatan Kemajuan Islam Malaysia), Indonesia’s MUI (Majeris Ulama Indonesia), or Singapore’s MUIS (Majlis Ugama Islam Singapura) as a Japanese agency that can confer certification. While this certification is intended primarily for export products, the mark is conferred by a Japanese certification agency and is fundamentally different from marks offered by overseas halal certification agencies (Takeshita 2014). Note too that halal certification does not automatically open doors to overseas Islamic markets. Even after certification is obtained, a company must still find a local distributor, and overcome a host of other obstacles to carve out a market.
The second way in which halal certification may be obtained in Japan is through one of the domestic agencies or non-profit organisations (NPOs) that provide certification based on their own criteria. Essentially, this is halal certification for the domestic Japanese market. It is sought by restaurants and accommodation that wish to attract Muslim tourists. This type of certification agency has mushroomed to several hundreds, and includes for-profit organisations that have no obvious religious affiliation. Among them there are agencies that issue certification to restaurants serving alcohol. An over-reliance on halal certification has led to a tendency to seek certification without careful consideration (Yasuda 2014).
Method
The survey subjects for this study were Muslim tourists planning a trip to Japan who came across the Hida Takayama Muslim Friendly Project Facebook page, and agreed to meet with me and be interviewed in Takayama. I interviewed a total of 34 Muslim tourists while we shared a meal at a restaurant in Takayama. The interviews were conducted from November 2015 to July 2016. The subjects came from Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia, and ranged in age from teenagers to those in their sixties. Furthermore, I interviewed management and service personnel as well as chefs and cooks from the restaurants and accommodation in Takayama during the same survey time frame.
Food-related challenges while staying in Japan
Enjoying the cuisine of another country is one of the pleasures of foreign travel, but eating out presents special problems for Muslims travelling in non-Muslim countries. I interviewed a family of four from Singapore near the end of a 14-day trip in Japan. While in Japan, this family ate most of their meals at ethnic restaurants operated by Muslims and at McDonald’s, where they ordered the Filet-O-Fish sandwich. The father in his fifties couldn’t eat raw fish, so that eliminated sushi.
On the previous evening in Takayama they had onigiri (rice balls) for dinner purchased at a convenience store. The mother in her fifties confided:
We went to a convenience store, but couldn’t read the ingredients written in Japanese. I asked the clerk with simple English, “No meat? Fish?” and we ended up buying tuna-filled rice balls.
I should note that there is a possibility that the Filet-O-Fish and the tuna-filled rice balls are not halal compliant since the former may be deep-fat fried in lard or animal-fat shortening, and the latter may contain meat extract or gelatin derived from animal by-products. The one safe option is to dine at a Muslim-operated ethnic restaurant, but a Malaysian male in his thirties commented:
I didn’t come all the way to Japan to eat Indian food even if it is halal. I can get plenty of Indian food back in Malaysia. I’m here in Japan, so I want to try Japanese food. Unfortunately, there is a lot of stuff I can’t eat because Japanese food uses mirin (sweet sake for seasoning). I like sashimi, but I would like to try local cuisine from the different regions of Japan.
Three salient points were revealed by the interview survey. First, Muslim tourists say it would be great if Japan had an official government-led halal-certification system like that in Malaysia, but at the same time, they do not expect a non-Muslim country like Japan to have a perfect certification system all set up. There was a great range of individual views regarding cookware and eating utensils that might come into contact with pork, which varied from “prefer that such utensils not be used” to “using such utensils is fine so long as they have been thoroughly cleaned.” Subjects interviewed for this survey did not say that “kitchens should be strictly divided between halal and non-halal areas,” as they understood how difficult this would be in a non-Muslim country like Japan.
The second point to emerge from the survey was that the majority of subjects (73.5 per cent) would like to see the ingredients clearly disclosed on food items. According to a questionnaire given to 840 Muslim visitors from Malaysia and Indonesia by the Japan Travel Bureau (JTB), 55 per cent of the subjects stated that they “would like to be able to determine themselves whether a food item is halal based on clear disclosure of the ingredients,” as reported by Terue Ishige (JTB) at the Japan Halal Expo 2015 held at Makuhari Messe on 26 November 2015. While staying in Japan, most of the subjects want to experience Japanese food, especially the local cuisine of different parts of Japan. But when they sit down to enjoy a meal, they would like to be able to determine for themselves whether food is halal or not by scrutinising the ingredients, and not have a non-Muslim Japanese waiter or waitress assure them that the food is halal.
The third point revealed by the survey was most Muslim tourists would prefer that the ingredients are disclosed in English, but illustrations might be used as an alternative to Japanese characters.
Takayama’s strategy for attracting Muslim tourists
Brief sketch of Takayama
Located in the heart of the Japanese Alps in central Japan, Takayama is a castle town steeped in history and tradition and is a popular tourist destination visited by many foreigners. TripAdvisor, the world’s largest consumer review travel website, published a ranking of the most popular tourist destinations in Japan in March 2015, and Takayama was placed sixth, the first time the city had made it into the top ten ranking (PR TIMES 2015). The top ten destinations were: Tokyo (first), Kyoto (second), Osaka (third), Nara (fourth), Shari Town in Hokkaido (fifth), Takayama (sixth), Nagasaki (seventh), Miyakojima (eighth), Ishigaki (ninth), and Onna Village, Okinawa (ten) (PR TIMES 2015).
The number of tourists (overnight guests) to Takayama dipped in 2011 in the wake of the Great East Japan Earthquake and the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster like every other tourist destination in Japan. Since then, the overall numbers have started to come back, but a closer look reveals that while the number of Japanese tourists has been approximately 1.7 million and hasn’t increased in recent years, the number of foreign tourists has rebounded sharply. In 2016, the number of foreign tourists to Takayama reached 461,253, which is the largest number of foreigners that has ever visited the city, and more than five times as many as the population of the city.
The breakdown of foreign tourists (overnight guests) visiting Takayama in 2016 by country or region of origin reveals that the greatest number of visitors came from Taiwan (89,111), followed by Hong Kong (58,070), and Thailand (35,208). Examining the countries that send more than 1,000 tourists to Takayama every year, the countries showing a striking increase from 2013 to 2016 were Malaysia and Indonesia. The number of tourists from Malaysia soared from 3,359 to 9,965, for a three-fold increase, while the number of tourists from Indonesia sharply increased from 595 to 3,070, for a five-fold increase (Takayama City, Commerce and Tourism Department, Tourism Division 2017). Considering that 60 per cent of Malaysia’s population (17.14 million) and 88 per cent of Indonesia’s population (200 million) are Muslim, we can anticipate that a growing number of Muslim travellers will be coming to Takayama in the years ahead.
Let us consider some of the background factors contributing to this sharp increase. These include the exemption of Malaysian and Indonesian nationals from having to obtain a visa to visit Japan. The Government of Japan decided that from 1 July 2013, nationals of Malaysia in possession of ordinary identity certificate (IC) passports who wish to enter Japan for a short-term stay (not to exceed three months) shall not be required to obtain a visa (Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan 2013). As of 1 December 2014, Indonesian nationals possessing an e-passport with a certificate of visa waiver shall be able to enter Japan for up to 15 days without applying for a new visa or registering for a visa waiver (Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan 2014). Economic development of Malaysia and Indonesia has given the middle class more disposable income and created a growing market for overseas travel, greater awareness that tourists are exempt from paying consumption taxes, initiatives by the Japan Tourism Agency (JTA) to attract tourists to Japan (Visit Japan Campaign), additional low-cost carriers (LCC) and more flights to Japan. Malaysia and Indonesia are included in a list of 14 countries targeted as priority markets by the JTA. In the case of Malaysia, young Muslim visitors are being targeted for the first time in addition to Muslim families in the past. For Indonesia, well-educated young Muslim visitors are now being targeted in addition to wealthy and upper-middle class visitors targeted in the past (Japan Tourism Agency 2013a, 2013b). The number of tourists coming from Malaysia and Indonesia has been increasing all across Japan (Japan National Tourism Organization 2015).
Takayama initiative
An increasing number of restaurants and accommodation are trying to attract Muslim tourists by obtaining halal certification, but Takayama for the first time in Japan has taken a different approach. Instead of obtaining halal certification, the Takayama project focuses on clear disclosure of ingredients so that Muslim patrons can determine for themselves whether a food item is halal or not. Initially launched as a private initiative, the project is now moving forward as a public–private venture supported by the local government.
The project was established in June 2014 by eight young owners and managers of restaurants, accommodation, and a food wholesaler with the goal of attracting Muslim tourists. The main idea was to set the minds of Muslim tourists at ease regarding dietary issues and religious practices, while at the same time enhancing their satisfaction and enjoyment of time spent in Takayama. A secondary goal of the project was to expand business opportunities for restaurants, accommodation, and food wholesalers.
Before the project got underway, members of the team made several trips to the nearest mosque in Nagoya where they got a basic education regarding halal food rules and Islamic religious practices. This knowledge and information was then passed along to the owners of restaurants and accommodation to entice more Muslim tourists to Takayama.
Two key strategies of the project can be highlighted. First, was the decision not to pursue halal certification, but rather to give individual consumers the information they need to determine whether food is halal or not by clearly disclosing ingredients on menus. Members of the project soon realised:
Serving up foods that contain no alcohol or pork is really not that difficult. By slightly modifying our recipes, we were able to give Muslim tourists the pleasure and experience of local Takayama cuisine, and dispel the false idea that we couldn’t attract Muslim tourists without becoming properly halal certified.
The second strategy was to disseminate information about Takayama’s offerings through adroit use of social networking services (SNSs). Muslim tourists who saw the project Facebook page came to Takayama and found they were able to enjoy local cuisine that contained no alcohol or pork. These people then posted photos and spread the word to friends back home and around the world through their own Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram accounts, which created a benevolent cycle bringing in even more Muslim tourists to Takayama. Their strategy was to go with the flow by exploiting social networking services to get the biggest public relations bang for the buck at minimal cost.
Local Takayama cuisine for Muslim tourists
The variety of food items on the menu appropriate for Muslims is gradually increasing. One of the main dinner offerings at ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) catering to Muslim guests is hoba-miso, which contains halal chicken and non-alcoholic miso. Hoba-miso is a local Takayama specialty consisting of grilled meat with miso on a hoba leaf, a type of magnolia. Even though they don’t obtain halal certification, they need to use halal meat.
The broth used for Takayama soba (buckwheat noodles) prepared for Muslims, both in hot noodle soup and for dipping noodles, is made from a non-alcoholic type of soy sauce. The chef at one well-known Takayama soba restaurant said, “We were reluctant to change the traditional taste of an item, but we have really tried to make our Muslim customers happy.” And it is obvious that these efforts have paid off, because they are seeing increasing numbers of walk-in customers who heard about their place on Facebook.
The Takayama ramen (Plate 15.1) made for Muslims is a non-alcoholic and non-pork ramen containing soy-based protein chunks as a substitute for braised pork belly, which is commonly added to ramen. A chef of one Takayama ramen restaurant said:
When we first experimented with cooking without lard or meat, the result was not even close. But through trial and error, we came up with a ramen that really appealed to our Muslim customers.
In fact, their new meatless recipe has been a big hit not only with Muslims but also with their Japanese customers as well, and they are selling more than 100 bowls a month. Plate 15.2 shows a menu of the Takayama ramen restaurant. They don’t use the words like halal or Muslim. They just say they don’t use pork, beef, or alcohol for ramen.
Sukiyaki prepared for Muslims is based on halal chicken and a non-alcoholic type of soy sauce. The consensus among chefs of restaurants and accommodation is that they are able to satisfy halal food rules by simply substituting ingredients that are readily available, and there is almost no difference in price.
The manager of one ryokan (where 80–90 per cent of the guests are foreigners) said:
By giving our Muslim guests the dishes they want and request, they are only too happy to come back and visit us again. Moreover, by telling their friends, that brings another wave of tourists. Years of effort have now finally paid off when tourists tell us that they are really glad they came to Takayama.
A growing number of Takayama restaurants have got behind the project and developed halal dishes that Muslims can enjoy. They all fully disclose the ingredients used and provide information on whether their kitchens are divided between halal and non-halal areas, and whether their cookware and eating utensils might come into contact with pork.
Southeast Asians generally prefer spicy foods, and tend to think that Japanese food is overly sweet. Upon trying the halal chicken-based sukiyaki, a 19-year-old Thai male commented, “I was very happy for the chance to try sukiyaki. And it was even better after I spiced it up with generous sprinkling of red pepper.” Here too, those involved in the project have not cut corners. Especially the restaurant owners are very much aware that they cannot just serve up halal food and think that their job is done. They listen very closely to the opinions of their foreign customers, and do everything they can to match or satisfy their taste preferences. In fact, everyone involved in the project—the owners of restaurants, accommodation, and food wholesale—keep in close contact and discuss how they might improve the experience and satisfaction of Muslim tourists coming to Takayama. It is clear that these relentless efforts have paid off by the growing number of tourists who flock to Takayama every year.
Prayer space
In addition to halal food, providing a designated prayer space is another important way to attract more Muslim tourists. Muslims perform five obligatory prayers a day, but while travelling may combine some prayers and only need to pray three times a day. Morning and evening prayers may be performed in the guest’s own hotel room, but Muslims are most appreciative if they can find a convenient place to pray after the midday meal. According to my survey, 91.2 per cent of the subjects indicated that some sort of prayer space or facility is required at tourist destinations.
Several restaurants in Takayama have already set up prayer spaces for Muslim customers. A Thai male in his sixties was very impressed to see prayer rugs laid out in the room next to where they were dining and said:
I can observe prayer in the corner of a parking lot, in a hallway, or pretty much anywhere. I am not fussy about where I pray, but really appreciated that the restaurant had the forethought to provide a dedicated space for prayer. More than anything, this indicated that the owner really cares about our religious sensibilities.
It is just this type of emotional response that drives word-of-mouth advertising, and attracts increasing numbers of Muslim visitors to Takayama every year.
Conclusion
A false notion has been widespread among owners of restaurants and accommodation in Japan that “without certification, food isn’t halal” and thus it cannot be consumed by Muslims. The interview survey revealed that, when travelling, a more troublesome issue than determining whether a restaurant is halal or not is being unable to decipher the ingredients in a food item. This could be remedied by clearly disclosed ingredient information in English or by using self-evident pictograms.
The basic policy of the Takayama project is to show that Takayama wants to please its Muslim tourists by providing them with the information they need to decide on their own whether a food item is halal or not. There are diverse ideas about halal among Muslims, so trying to adjust to the strictest ideas would make it difficult for Takayama to host Muslim tourists. While certainly it is important to make a profit, the goal of the owners of restaurants and accommodation is not to chase after commerce, but to develop a keen understanding of hospitality toward Muslim tourists that goes beyond acquisition of halal certification. Takayama has been making every effort to meet the needs of Muslim tourists rather than merely being satisfied with increasing the number of tourists. This has led to the increase of the number of Muslim tourists to Takayama.
One member of the project team said, “We have been able to make this project work on behalf of our businesses and our community simply because Takayama is a relatively small town and everyone knows everyone else.” As I was conducting the interview survey, I observed how quickly the project advanced from initial planning to execution. For example, members came up with the idea of a menu tailored especially for Muslim tourists, and the next day they already had a menu in English replete with illustrations. Or, when the team decided to provide prayer rugs at a prayer space in the restaurant, they were laid at the space a couple of days later. This ability to follow through and get things done has really driven the project forward. The Japan Tourism Agency evaluated the project’s activities, and in December 2015 selected Takayama to receive agency support for its initiatives in disseminating information and creating a receptive environment for Muslim tourists.
Considerable interest has focused on creating a congenial environment for foreign tourists coming to Japan in recent years, and the food and dietary practices of the growing number of Muslim tourists have presented thorny issues. A representative of the Takayama project proudly said, “With just a little ingenuity, we were able to provide a much more hospitable environment for Muslims.” For the first time ever in Japan, Takayama is making remarkable progress through a public–private initiative in attracting more Muslim tourists without recourse to halal certification.
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