Fried Green Tomato & Basil Sandwich
Maple Syrup Marinated Wild Salmon (Phil and Judy Welty)
Basil Pesto with Handmade Linguine
Stuffed Roti with Chickpea Filling
Italian Sausage Risotto (Beth and Jody Osmund)
Grilled Shish-kabob Souvlaki (lamb) with Tzatziki Sauce
Indonesian Asparagus and Pasta
** see Liam’s Favorites (page 214) for:
America’s founding fathers signed the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776, affirming the rights to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. It set in motion the formation of a more perfect Union, founded upon the principles rooted in the land, in democracy and freedom.
Thomas Jefferson, perhaps more than any other founder, recognized the importance of agriculture in the nourishment of what has become our great nation today. While he had many detractors and skeptics, he advocated for the small family farmers — and a limited Federal government. From crop rotation to contour plowing, Jefferson appreciated the young nation’s interdependency on the land and the fruits it provided. He is in fact responsible for the eggplant, broccoli and Brussels sprouts we eat today, having introduced them himself to American soils. He also recognized the finiteness of the continent, and called for stewardship and care.
Lisa Kivirist raising a carrot to farmstead independence and interdependence. Without the wind and sun, our farm would not run or grow food.
At the time of the American Revolution, much of the population grew at least some of their own food. We were a largely agrarian nation, with inklings of the industrial greatness that would arrive in the 20th century, albeit at a dire cost to both ecological systems and fellow humankind, impacts we’re still trying to ascertain. While the US abolished slavery about a century after the Revolution, much of our agricultural system still depends on exploited migrant labor, and often by illegal immigrants.
After the robber barons came the multinational corporations. Food production became the purview of a shrinking crop of increasingly large-scale farms, often operating as corporations themselves. Federal policies, especially through the Farm Bill, masked the true cost of food with producer subsidies and a highway system to move it around.
By the end of the 20th century, these corporations and their lobbying interests took powerful positions that helped write the very laws that regulated their business. Since the majority of politicians serve urban or suburban constituents having little interest in farming issues, one might wonder why they would even approve the Federal Farm Bill. What many people don’t know is that as much as 50 percent of the Farm Bill funding goes toward the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), formerly called Food Stamp Program, as well as school lunch and other nutritional programs. In 2010, over 40 million Americans depended on the SNAP. So in America, you could say eating is a political act, too.
Meanwhile, independence and freedom for the American people related to food and drink became largely defined by the number of food choices and the ability to earn money to pay someone else to grow or produce what we ate. We the eaters have become dependent upon the industrial food system to provide for our survival. If you live in a low-income part of a city, like Detroit, there may not even be a supermarket to serve you. Yet in a well-to-do suburb, there might be warehouses of food. And, because it’s a food system dependent on cheap, abundant oil, so too, is our next meal.
But those of us who shop at farmers markets or grow some food in our gardens know that independence and happiness have much more to do with relationships and friendships than with the size of our bank account. Trust is what holds these relationships together, forged from a respect for each other and the land, and the importance of food and community in our daily lives. Both are essential to our prosperity.
Food is a currency that defines healthy communities. The Transition Town movement where citizens come together to build community resilience is based on the same foundations of our founding fathers, that of collaboration, democracy and sharing. These citizen-led initiatives address many facets of resiliency like energy, transportation or housing, achieving greater local self-reliance and stronger local economy. Instead of hording stocks, bonds or land, food caches or knowledge, transition initiatives (transitionus.org) are helping rebuild our basic skills sets, like how to can tomatoes or grow basil. The local food system seems to be a common starting point for many of these communities once awareness of the issues has attracted enough interest among residents.
There are numerous examples throughout this book of ways to reconnect with real food, if not grown on your rooftop, then by purchasing directly from the growers or producers and largely sidestepping corporate America. From farmers markets to small-scale artisanal cheesemakers, from family or cooperatively run dairies to local beekeepers, scratch the surface in any community and there’s a growing number of opportunities to buy real food directly from real people.
A declaration of American interdependence — among farmers and diners, city slickers and country folk, people and the land — may hold out the greatest promise and hope for tomorrow, as energy costs soar ever higher and climate change makes it snow in Mexico, flood in Australia and leads to massive forest fires in China. Soon, we may all be eating more farmsteadtarian, not by choice but circumstance. We’re in it together now on our common home: Earth.
All politics are local, it’s said. So, too, might it be for most of our food and drink. A great thing, we think. While this cookbook includes a smattering of recipes requiring ingredients found outside the Midwest, there’s plenty that don’t. It’s not that we’re hardcore apple junkies, for example, with our collection of apple creations. Rather, we just have them by the bushel by the second week in September.
We eat what grows in abundance where we live. The fun part is rediscovering what grows where you live and figuring out what variations in this cookbook will work well for your locale. Got blueberries? Replace them where it calls for fresh raspberries. If your CSA box provides more sweet potatoes than you can eat baked, try replacing them in our potato latke recipe (we did and they’re scrumptious). Of course, give the recipe substitution a try before serving it to a house full of guests.
We like to celebrate interdependency day every day with a nod in thanks to the yeoman farmer who made it possible. After all, without these farmers — perhaps yourself included — we wouldn’t be around for very long. So let these main dishes celebrate independence and the interdependence of the foods found on our plates.
JOHN WILL NEVER FORGET the year without a harvest of eggplant. Lisa, however, is desperately trying to. We didn’t lose the eggplant to drought, flea beetles or kids trampling the plants. One day, while weeding, Lisa lost her focus and ended up pulling out both the weeds and the healthiest eggplants we ever grew. She started weeding the eggplant row and got so into the clearing-out zone that she became a human goat, pulling out everything. For a second she proudly looked back at the row when she finished, clear of everything, then realized what happened. It’s now a running joke, as we do savor this eggplant dish each summer, and remember the legendary human goat. So try to keep the big picture in mind; stay focused on the task at hand, and never throw the eggplant out with the burdock.
1medium eggplant (about 1 lb.)
2eggs
2T. milk
½c. hard granular cheese, grated (Parmesan)
½c. wheat germ
1t. dried basil (dried coats better than fresh, which tends to clump)
2c. tomato sauce (see page 102)
1c. feta cheese, finely crumbled (1 lb.)
Slice the eggplant into ½-inch slices, leaving the skins on. Lightly salt eggplant slices and place on a baking sheet. Let stand for 10 minutes. Water will bead on eggplant; pat dry.
In a small shallow bowl, combine the eggs and milk.
In another small shallow bowl, combine the cheese, wheat germ and basil.
Dip the eggplant slices first in the egg and milk mixture, then into wheat germ mixture, turning to coat both sides. Place the coated slices in a single layer on a lightly oiled baking sheet.
Bake at 400° for 20 minutes or until the eggplant is a crisp golden brown on the outside and tender in the inside.
While eggplant is baking, heat tomato sauce.
To serve, place several eggplant slices on each plate. Spoon tomato sauce over eggplant and sprinkle with feta cheese.
YIELD: 4 servings.
IT’S A QUICK AND EASY PIZZA since the crispy crust is not yeast-based so it doesn’t need to rise. What makes this pizza exceptional are the ingredients: the fresh vegetables, homemade sauce and quality cheeses and fresh crust, all made by hand.
2c. flour
½c. whole wheat flour
1½t. baking powder
½t. salt
¼c. butter (½ stick)
1c. milk
2c. tomato sauce (see page 102)
pizza toppings of choice
½t. canola oil
Place the two flours, baking powder and salt into the food processor and pulse until mixed. Drop in the butter pieces and pulse until large crumbs form.
With the motor running, pour in the milk and process just until a clump of dough forms.
Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Form 4 balls. Roll out each ball with a lightly floured rolling pin into an 8-inch circle.
Place two circles on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Top with the toppings of your choice and bake at 450° for 12 to 15 minutes or until golden on top and bottom. Peek underneath the crust to make sure it’s golden brown.
Serve immediately. If there are any leftovers, they’re best reheated in the oven to maintain the crispiness of the crust.
YIELD: 4 pizzas.
Pizza coming out from a hot stone in a convection oven.
I S ALL ADDICTION BAD? What if the obsession stems from pizza? That’s how we felt during our urban jaunts to Chicago where, of course, some classic deep-dish pizza needed to be on the menu. But back on the farmstead, alas, we had the option of either going cold turkey on deep-dish pizza or tackle a recipe for that essential pizza ingredient: the crust. Here’s our adaptation of the pizza at Lou Malnati’s, a Chicago landmark. The secret is in the cornmeal.
1½ c. warm water
2¼ t. dry active yeast (one .25 oz. package)
1t. sugar
4c. flour, divided
¼c. olive oil
¼c. cornmeal
1T. salt
4c. cheese (mozzarella, havarti)
2c. tomato sauce (see page 102)
2c. onion, chopped
2c. bell peppers, sliced
4c. spinach, shredded
In a large bowl of an electric mixer, mix warm water, yeast and sugar. Let stand for 5 minutes.
Mix in 3 c. flour, olive oil and cornmeal. Use dough hook of mixer on low speed until smooth. Add remaining flour in ¼ c. increments. Mix in thoroughly before adding next flour addition. May need a little more or less flour to reach dough consistency. Mix 3 minutes more. Dough should feel slightly sticky but not stick to hands.
Remove dough from mixer. Form into a ball and place in bowl lightly oiled with olive oil. Spread a little olive oil lightly on top of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Let dough stand at room temperature approximately 2 hours before rolling out.
Sauté onions and peppers in skillet over medium heat for about 6 minutes or until tender. Add spinach until wilted.
Roll dough to ½-inch thickness and place on lightly oiled pizza pan. Top with tomato sauce, cheese and toppings. Bake at 400° for 35 minutes or until crust is brown and cheese is lightly browned and bubbly.
Serve immediately. If there are any leftovers, they’re best reheated in the oven to maintain the crispiness of the crust.
YIELD: 8 servings.
THIS HEARTY VEGGIE SANDWICH captures the peak of garden freshness. We go through a summer phase where we eat this every day for a week. Enjoy it while the garden lasts. We use the Artisan Bread recipe on page 62 or splurge on a crusty sourdough bread at our favorite local bakery. The sandwich is crispy on the outside and juicy inside, filled with aromatic basil.
2medium green tomatoes
2T. cornmeal
½t. salt
2c. melting cheese, shredded (try mozzarella, havarti or smoked Gouda)
1c. fresh basil leaves, packed
8slices crusty bread
¼c. butter (½ stick), softened
4T. mayonnaise
¼c. canola oil
Slice tomatoes into half-inch slices.
Combine cornmeal and salt in small bowl. Dip the tomato slices into the mixture and coat both sides.
Heat oil in frying pan over medium-high heat (do not let it smoke) to coat bottom of pan. Fry the tomato slices until they are tender and golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes per side. Set the fried tomatoes aside to allow them to cool slightly.
Butter each outside side of each slice of bread.
Spread approximately ½ T. mayonnaise on each inside slice of bread. Top with fried tomatoes, approximately 6 basil leaves and ½ c. shredded cheese.
After forming sandwiches (buttered sides on the outside), return to pan over medium heat until cheese melts and bread turns a golden, crispy brown.
Carefully slide sandwiches from pan and place on a plate, cutting sandwich in half. Serve immediately, garnished with a pickle wedge.
YIELD: 4 sandwiches.
Tomatoes and basil will not likely make it though a frost, so before the first frost of autumn, harvest everything. Then grill up some Fried Green Tomato & Basil Sandwiches.
OKAY, SO THEY ARE NOT REALLY MEATBALLS. More like a dressed-up fritter. But the hearty texture makes these a protein-packed (thanks to the chickpea flour) topping for spaghetti or even cut in half for pizza toppings. We’re always on the lookout for new ways to use zucchini, and these freeze particularly well, so it’s a good way to process the squash for winter comfort food.
3medium zucchini, thinly sliced
½t. salt
¼c. onions, finely chopped
½t. ground ginger
2T. fresh cilantro (2 t. dried)
½c. chickpea flour
Sprinkle zucchini with salt. Set aside for ½ hour. Squeeze excess liquid from zucchini.
Chop zucchini, add onion, ginger, cilantro and chickpea flour. Mix well and form into 16 balls.
Fry over medium heat until golden, about 10 minutes, then remove and set on paper napkins to drain off excess oil.
Serve as you would meatballs with spaghetti and sauce. These are also delicious as fritter-style appetizers with a ranch dip sauce.
YIELD: 16 meatballs.
Break out of the white flour box. What a sheltered life we led before, when recipes revolved around the processed white flour. By definition, “flour” is a powdery foodstuff made by grinding and sifting the meal of a grain. While grinding wheat to make white flour is most common, lots of things can be ground and sifted such as rice, corn and chickpeas. A staple in Indian cuisine, chickpea flour has a high level of protein and no gluten.
Phil and Judy Welty,
Welty’s Sugar Bush,
Browntown, Wisconsin
It was called the Welty’s Sugar Bush, owned and operated by Phil and Judy Welty from 1968 to 1975. Nestled along a hillside, the mostly wooded thirty-five acres that made up the Welty’s Sugar Bush included hundreds of sugar maples. The trees produced more than 10,000 gallons of sap each spring, siphoned off by more than 1,000 taps. When they first started, Phil and Judy hauled 5-gallon buckets of sap by hand and heated the evaporator in their 300-square-foot sugar shack with wood. They produced about 300 gallons of syrup in a good year.
“School kids came out regularly during the week for a tour and a taste,” smiles Phil. Like many food entrepreneurs, he and his wife were eager to share their knowledge and introduce kids to real food, harvested and processed locally. “Then we had to gear up for when the kids brought their parents out the following weekend for our syrup and popular maple sugar candy.” The amber-colored syrup seemed ample reward for the hard work during the maple syrup-making season from late February through early April in Wisconsin.
As it turns out, real maple syrup is one of the most valuable liquid commodities around, going for about $75 per gallon these days. When it opened, Phil and Judy’s maple syrup operation was the only one in the area. So naturally, their nature-based enterprise boomed on land they rented from the landowner. People could taste the rich flavors and quality, easily beating out the imitations and chemically flavored syrups sold at the store.
Their wild foods venture was so lucrative that their profits ended up becoming the down payment for the property. They eventually built their log cabin homestead, including an expansive kitchen garden, solar thermal system for domestic hot water and a small wind turbine to generate electricity. The decision to build their log cabin, along with their decision to launch a new renewable energy enterprise during the first American energy crisis and OPEC oil embargo years, led them to wind down their Sugar Bush operation. The future was solar and self-reliance, and they started Solar Use Now of Wisconsin, operated from their homestead.
“My grandfather’s pride and joy was his Victory Garden,” says Phil, explaining how they both became interested in small-scale farming, foraging for wild foods and homesteading. “We ate off his Victory Garden.”
Phil and Judy Welty’s homestead with wind turbine and solar thermal system.
“And off what we found along the roadside,” adds Judy. “Back then, it provided an abundance of wild foods like asparagus, ground cherries, mushrooms, raspberries, blackberries and wild grapes. It just about sustained us for the whole year, since we canned and preserved everything we harvested or foraged.”
Our first meeting with Phil and Judy, years later, after we had begun the work of transforming our farmstead into a more self-reliant homestead, was not by chance. They drove up our driveway, looking to ask us about the solar thermal system we had recently installed on our roof. Since they had installed more than thirty such systems in the 1970s, they were curious as to why a young couple from Chicago would think to put such a system on their roof (after all, oil was only about $18/barrel in 1997).
CitiCar cake shared with visitors to the National Solar Tour at Inn Serendipity.
And so sparked a friendship and mentorship that became pivotal to the success of our largely fossil-fuel-free homestead today, since Phil and Judy eagerly shared their knowledge of everything from canning tomatoes to renewing our understanding of how the sun moved across the sky through the seasons. We often sought counsel from these two sages, wise in the ways of practical homesteading skills.
While we may have become friends through our relationship with renewable energy and homesteading skills, it was through food that we became family. They had us over for Judy’s pizza nights, and we joined their family for their annual fondue party to usher in the New Year — a slow food experience if there ever was one — a meal cooked one bite at a time.
The year 2006 was a special year for us. We celebrated the return to the road of a plug-in, all-electric CitiCar, completely rewired and restored by Phil. Now, our trips to the bank for our business are made possible by this electric car. Only about 2,600 of these CitiCars were made by the Sebring-Vanguard Company from 1974 to 1976, the embargo years that foreshadowed the second energy crisis of the late 2000s, when oil ran as much as $148/barrel in 2008.
We celebrated this birthday occasion like many Americans do, with a cake — a triple-decker cake carefully sculpted in the wedge shape of the CitiCar. Pieces of the CitiCar cake were shared with every Solar Tour visitor — along with numerous test drives navigated by Phil — bringing a tasty connection to both our transportation and the abundant and local fuel choice for the car: a .5 kW solar electric system placed next to our garage.
THIS RECIPE IS INSPIRED by Welty’s Sugar Bush and a desire to eat sustainably caught fish. We avoid farmed salmon that’s usually raised in floating feedlots, opting instead for Alaskan wild-caught salmon. Like the rest of our fish and seafood, we look for certification by the Marine Stewardship Council (msc.org). Our quick reference is the sustainable Seafood Watch pocket guide or card by region of the country from Monterey Bay Aquarium (montereybayaquarium.org) or Environmental Defense Fund (edf.org). Unfortunately, nearly all commercial Atlantic salmon is now farmed. For wild Alaskan salmon, several kinds might be considered: chinook or king salmon, with a rich, buttery red flesh and the highest oil content; sockeye or red salmon, with a rich flavor and deep red flesh; coho or silver salmon, with a lower oil content and a less firm texture than the other two. This salmon goes great with Oven-roasted Potatoes (page 92) and our Caesar Salad (page 112).
2lbs. boneless wild Alaskan salmon, fillets
2T. maple syrup
½c. orange juice, freshly squeezed
½c. bourbon
½c. soy sauce
2cloves garlic, minced
2t. fresh ginger, grated
1T. brown sugar
3T. canola oil
3T. green onions, finely chopped
¼t. salt
¼t. pepper
½fresh lemon, thinly sliced (optional)
½medium yellow onion, sliced into ¼-inch slices (optional)
Combine maple syrup, orange juice, bourbon, soy sauce, minced garlic, grated ginger root, brown sugar and oil in bowl. Sprinkle salt and mash and blend mixture with fork to release flavors.
Place salmon fillets skin-side up, in a glass cake pan. Pour marinade mixture over salmon fillets and let sit covered in the refrigerator for 8 hours.
To broil in the oven, pour ½ c. marinade on a foil-lined jelly roll pan. Place the fish skin side down on the foil and pour about 1 c. marinade on top of the fish. Add sliced lemon and onions on top of fish. Broil fish at medium heat (450°) for about 15 minutes, watching carefully to avoid over-cooking. Baste occasionally with remaining marinade.
For outdoor grilling, heat grill to medium heat, then cook individual salmon fillets on grill with skin side down. Depending on the thickness of the fillets, cook for 15 to 20 minutes, checking frequently to avoid overcooking. When bottom side is done, turn fillets over and grill the top side for 5 additional minutes.
YIELD: 4 servings.
None of us are teachers; we are all students, learning from each other’s experience.
MARK BOYLE, THE MONEYLESS MAN
JUST SAY THE WORD “CASABLANCA” and you start feeling exotic, sexy and channeling Bogart. Imagine what happens when you make a whole meal on that theme, inspired by the western city in Morocco. With hints of curry and raisins, the sauce juxtaposes savory and sweet. We like to continue the North African theme and serve it over couscous, but you can just as easily use rice, another whole grain or just eat it plain. “Cook it again, Sam.”
1lb. tofu, cubed
1c. onion, chopped (about 1 medium)
1c. carrots, peeled & sliced
½c. chopped walnuts
2c. cooked chickpeas (one 16 oz. can, drained)
2c. tomato sauce (see page 102)
½c. raisins
1½c. water
2t. curry powder
1t. paprika
1t. salt
1c. couscous
2T. olive oil
In large pan, brown tofu, onion, carrots, nuts.
Add chickpeas, tomato sauce, raisins, water, curry, paprika and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 40 minutes.
Separately, boil 1½ c. water with 2 T. oil. Add couscous, stir, cover, reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Serve vegetables over steaming couscous.
YIELD: 4 servings.
Couscous is among one of the healthiest grain-based products with a much higher vitamin punch than pasta. It isn’t a grain itself, but made from moistening semolina wheat into tiny balls and then coating them with finely ground wheat flour. Most couscous you’ll find in the store has been pre-steamed and dried. It cooks up fluffy and is ready to eat in minutes.
WE USED TO THINK the nicest B&B compliment came when folks chose to stay here on their honeymoon. But Ben and Alissa topped that last summer. Not only were they returning guests who came back for their honeymoon, they served our beet burger recipe at their wedding reception. These burgers take time to make so we like to make a triple batch and freeze some of the extra patties. They taste surprisingly good cold and the deep red color of the beets give a hearty burger feel. We once served them to Lisa’s carnivore dad. Maybe it was an English-as-a-second-language thing, or perhaps we talked too fast, but he still thinks he ate “beef” burgers.
4c. beets, grated (4 medium beets)
1c. onion, chopped (1 medium onion)
1c. cooked long grain brown rice
1c. sunflower seeds
½c. sesame seeds
2eggs, lightly beaten
2T. soy sauce
1c. cheddar cheese, grated
3T. flour
¼c. canola oil
Mix all ingredients well in a large bowl. We find it easiest to do this with clean hands.
Form into patties and place on lightly oiled baking sheets. Bake at 350° for about 45 minutes. After about 40 minutes, flip patties for the last 5 minutes of baking. Cooked patties should be browned and firm. You may need to use a spatula to get patty off baking sheet.
Serve these burgers just like you would a hamburger, with lettuce, tomato, cheese and condiments inside a bun. We like ours with barbeque sauce. John loves them cold, like pizza, the next day.
YIELD: approximately 12 burger patties.
Brown rice is less processed and therefore a healthier rice option. For different flavors or textures, try basmati or jasmine rice, or a local wild rice if you’re lucky to live somewhere it’s readily available.
WE MAKE LARGE BATCHES of pesto during our peak basil season and freeze it for wintertime enjoyment. Another of our “ingredients to taste” recipes, this simple recipe packs a powerful punch when it comes to flavor.
6c. fresh basil leaves, washed and firmly packed
½c. pine nuts, walnuts or pecans
½c. hard granular cheese, grated (Parmesan)
2cloves garlic, minced
½t. salt, or to taste
2T. olive oil
2c. flour
½t. salt
2eggs
2T. water
In a food processor, combine basil, nuts, cheese, garlic and salt. Blend or process with several on-off turns of food processor or until a paste forms, stopping the machine several times and scraping sides to completely blend all ingredients.
With the machine running slowly, gradually add the oil and process until the consistency of soft butter.
Serve immediately on a bed of fresh linguine, garnished with shavings of Parmesan cheese or sprinkle of chopped basil. Leftover pesto can be stored in the refrigerator for several days, but make sure you splash some lemon juice over the top of an airtight container to prevent it from browning when it comes in contact with air.
YIELDS: 6 servings.
Making pasta is easy and fun. Start with linguini, then try ravioli.
Combine flour and salt in a mixer. Add eggs one at a time. Slowly add water a teaspoon at a time until you have a smooth, pliable dough. Don’t worry if there are a few lumps.
Place dough on a lightly floured sheet of plastic wrap and cover the ball tightly and let sit for about 15 minutes.
Break off about a ½ c. piece and run through a pasta roller in a hand-crank pasta making machine, starting with the number 1 setting and continuing to roll at different levels until you reach the desired thickness.
Roll through the pasta cutter on the linguini setting or other noodle width you desire. Dust noodles lightly with flour and hang on a noodle drying rack (or a creative equivalent like a clean drying rack for towels). We like to cook and eat the noodles right away, but you can dry them fully (usually overnight) for later use.
To cook, add noodles to boiling water and cook 1 to 2 minutes until done. Be careful not to overcook them or you’ll end up with a hard glob of cooked dough.
YIELDS: 1 pound of pasta (approximately 4 servings).
Basil freezes really well. Immediately after you’ve processed the pesto, transfer to a freezer storage container and fill to the fill line, but not to the top. Add a splash of lemon juice to cover the top of the pesto and then tightly close the lid and place into the freezer.
YOUR KIDS DON’T HAVE to be Popeye to eat spinach — and love it. Among our son’s favorite “special meals,” the Greek spanakopita is appealing to young and old alike because of its buttery phyllo dough crunch, rich egg-spinach-dill-feta filling and its saltiness.
5c. fresh spinach (about 2 lbs.)
1c. onions, finely chopped (1 medium onion)
¼c. olive oil
1c. feta cheese, finely crumbled (1 lb.)
4eggs, lightly beaten
3T. fresh dill (3 t. dried)
½lb. phyllo pastry dough sheets (defrosted)
½c. butter, melted (1 stick)
Wash fresh spinach, pat dry and chop fine.
Sauté onion in olive oil until soft and slightly browned. Add spinach and simmer to remove excess moisture.
In a medium bowl, crumble cheese and mix in eggs and dill. Combine with spinach mixture and stir until well-blended.
Line a 9 × 13-inch baking pan with one sheet of phyllo. Brush sheet with butter. Lay another sheet on top and brush with butter. Repeat until pan is layered with 10 sheets of buttered phyllo. Keep the phyllo sheets covered with a damp cloth as you work to prevent them from drying out. Pour in spinach-cheese mixture. Top with 8 more buttered sheets of phyllo.
Bake at 350° for about 45 minutes, or until top is golden brown.
Let sit for 15 minutes before cutting. Serve warm, perhaps with a side cucumber or Caesar salad.
YIELD: 8 servings.
Nothing will benefit human health and increase the chances for survival of life on Earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet.
ALBERT EINSTEIN
ROTI IS A CARIBBEAN SANDWICH stuffed with curried veggies, potatoes and chickpeas. Another of our “travel sandwiches” since they make hearty, healthy road food when there’s nothing but fast food in sight off the Interstate. We heat them piping hot, then wrap them in foil to keep the roti warm “to go.” The roti are nicely complemented by a dipping sauce, like our ranch dressing (see page 229).
4c. flour
2t. baking powder
1t. salt
¼c. vegetable oil
1c. water
½c. onion or chives, chopped (1 small onion)
1clove garlic, minced
1t. curry powder
½t. ground cumin
¼t. salt
2c. potatoes, peeled and cubed
¾c. water
1c. cooked chickpeas (½ a 10 oz. can)
1T. butter
To make the dough, combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Gradually add the oil and water to the bowl, mixing and kneading the dough as you go. The dough should not be so wet that it sticks to your fingers, but should hold together when pressed into a ball. Form a ball and set the dough aside (covered) for about 15 minutes.
To make the filling, sauté the onion and garlic in a skillet for 4 to 5 minutes over medium heat. Add the curry, cumin and salt and cook 1 minute more.
Add the potato and water and cook for about 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
Add the chickpeas and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the filling is chunky and thick. Set the filling aside.
Divide the dough into 4 to 6 equal-sized balls. Flatten each ball and roll out into thin 8-inch squares, trying to roll the dough as thin as you can. Fill the middle of each square with about ½ c. of the filling. Wrap the dough around the mixture, burrito style, and seal the filling inside.
To cook the roti, heat the butter in an electric fry pan or skillet over high heat until it sizzles. Reduce the heat to medium and, using a large spatula, place a filled roti in the pan. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the crust is a golden brown. Turn with a wide spatula and continue cooking. Repeat the process with the remaining roti.
YIELD: 4 servings.
Beth and Jody Osmund,
Cedar Valley Sustainable Farm,
Ottawa, Illinois
Lisa met Beth Osmund on a bus headed to a reception at the USDA office building in DC one balmy spring evening, an admittedly unusual setting for two Midwest farm chicks to cross paths. Surrounded by concrete and politicians, these two female-farmer-food-activists met at the National Women in Agriculture Conference, both of them trying to bring the sustainable message to a gathering dominated by voices from chemical agriculture.
The connections between Lisa and Beth started flying on that bus. Lisa shared her vegetable growing mission, and Beth explained her family farm’s approach to raising meat with a mantra of land stewardship and care for animal welfare. We might raise different things on our farms, but we share a passion for sustainability. And a side of greens pairs nicely with Italian Sausage Risotto, as we learned. Both Chicago transplants to rural areas, we also homeschooled our kids. Our homesteads are a couple of hours apart.
“The farm and learning and life in general all blend for our family,” says Beth. “Together we can play a role in improving our environment through providing healthy, sustainable food options for families, and we want our kids to understand this process hands-on. We see everything as connected.”
Beth and her husband, Jody, along with their young children, moved back to Jody’s family farm in 2003 to start Cedar Valley Sustainable Farm. What began as a vegetable CSA evolved into the first meat CSA to serve Chicago. They’ve grown and are now feeding over 300 families in the Chicagoland area with monthly deliveries of poultry, pork, beef and eggs, items they raise on the farm or produce in partnership with neighbors.
Courtesy Cedar Valley Sustainable Farm
“Transparency is the most important ingredient in creating a sustainable food system,” explains Beth, a woman who epitomizes the new generation of women on the farm who eat what they raise and can explain why, too. “Know your farmer and, importantly, know what your farmer knows. Any producer should be able to talk knowledgably about what they are raising, from beef to beets, and should be open to invite you to the farm to experience things for yourself.”
Beth realizes bringing up the topic of “meat” when discussing sustainability can result in a tsunami of opinions and perspectives. “We look at meat on a continuum,” outlines Beth. “On one hand you have CAFOs (confined animal feeding operations), promoting cheap food with animals knee-deep in excrement. On the other end you might have animals processed onsite by the butcher who raised them. We are food activists by the choices we make, by where we place our food dollars and priorities on that spectrum. We’re trying to help folks have more options on the sustainability side of the equation.”
The Osmunds define their sustainably raised meat in ways that respect their animals’ natural instincts, while leaving the land in better shape than they found it. They price their product to reflect a true, fair cost of what it takes to run their business with no government subsidies or corporate skimming, while providing a livable wage for their family and the other farmers they work with. Their animals have access to the outdoors; some are raised exclusively on grass, while most have diets supplemented or finished with grain, producing meat aligned with the taste preferences of their customers.
Beth takes pride in her encyclopedic knowledge of their meat. Ask her if their grain is organic and you’ll get a short answer — no — followed by a transparent explanation as to why: “If we bought organic grain, it would add both cost but, importantly, require being trucked in over three states. It would be organic but soaked in petroleum since it had to travel so far,” comments Beth. “Instead we buy local grain from a farmer three miles down the road who doesn’t use GMO seed, keeping more money in our local economy and foreign oil out. Adding some corn to our cows’ diets creates the intramuscular fat that creates the fatty taste Americans like.”
It’s the flavor, along with their philosophy, that keeps their customers satisfied and their business growing. “Happy animals make true happy meals,” Beth adds. “When animals are raised in the natural setting where they have access to the outdoors and are well-cared for, it shows up as flavor on the plate. We intimately know our herd and flocks and connect those dots for our customers, creating a connection with animals that can never happen in a supermarket.”
If you’re not raising your own meat or don’t have a place like Cedar Valley offering regular deliveries, your easiest and most economical option would be to buy a quarter or half of a cow or pig direct from a farmer in your area. “You’ll need a freezer to store the meat,” advises Beth. “The amount you need depends on your family size and cooking habits. Start with a quarter of a cow or half pig and see how long that lasts.”
We invited Beth and her tribe to our farm for our annual Reunion festivities that summer, when we gather friends and garden goodness against a backdrop of summer fun, like water balloon skirmishes of kids ganging up on parents. Beth came with an enthusiastic full cargo load, bringing the family tent, husband Jody and kids Richard, Duncan and Jack — along with enough brats to feed the crowd in attendance.
It says a lot about a person if they are willing to drive hours with their family to a place they’ve never been to sleep outside among people they don’t know based on an hour-long bus conversation one of them had with a then-stranger. Maybe a love of farming and food can be the next Match.com to bring people together; simply knowing someone else who shares your values of food, family and sustainability can serve to build trust and faith, instead of the walls and barriers we see too much of today. We use this “food filter” often as it serves us well to connect with kindred spirits.
Courtesy Cedar Valley Sustainable Farm
“My kids are carnivores born and bred,” smiles Beth. “But I do not want our food to be faceless. Too many people today are used to eating chicken with no face or connection to the land. My boys will grow up with an intimate experience of the farm and family business, and hopefully a deeper understanding and appreciation for the natural world that surrounds us.”
By adding in the Osmund boys to our Reunion that July, the kids outnumbered adults. Their brats, grilled over an open fire in the woods behind our farm, satisfied all. How often do you get the chance to eat something that comes full circle, both raised and grilled by the same hands?
BETH CONTRIBUTED THIS RECIPE for the classic Italian dish of rice and broth cooked to a creamy consistency. Arborio rice is a short grain, firm and chewy, named after the town where it is grown in Italy. Beth came to visit one cold December weekend, bringing all the ingredients and cooking it up on our woodstove. Talk about winter comfort food.
1lb. Italian pork sausage
1c. onions, finely chopped (1 medium onion)
1T. butter
1¼ c. arborio rice
½c. red wine
3c. chicken stock, hot
⅓c. grated Parmesan cheese (plus extra to serve)
½t. salt
¼t. pepper
Fry sausage in a large skillet, breaking it up into small pieces as it cooks. When it is lightly browned in about 8 minutes, remove from pan.
In the same pan, melt the butter, add the onion and cook over medium heat until onions soften. Add the rice and toss until well coated in butter, stirring constantly.
Add the wine and stir until it is absorbed. Add the sausage and stir through.
Add the stock and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low, cover and cook 15 to 20 minutes until the broth is absorbed and the rice is tender, stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat. Stir in cheese, add salt and pepper to taste and serve on a plate with extra Parmesan cheese sprinkled on top.
YIELD: 4 servings.
You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed.
ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY, THE LITTLE PRINCE
LIFE CAN BE MESSY. From tracking garden mud into the house to sticky spousal miscommunication, things don’t always fit into tidy compartments. These sloppy joes celebrate that fact and can’t hide the lentil-based filling likely to escape from the bun. The flavor of this dish intensifies with time; leftovers are encouraged. The tomato sauce has a sweet tang to it; we have friends who use it for ketchup.
2c. water
½t. salt
1c. brown lentils, well-rinsed
1T. olive oil
1onion, chopped
2c. chopped tomatoes or tomato sauce
2cloves garlic, minced
3T. tomato paste (use more ketchup if you don’t have paste)
½c. ketchup
1t. dried mustard
2t. chili powder
3T. molasses
½t. Worcestershire sauce (omit for vegan)
½t. salt
¼t. pepper
potato rolls (page 59), hamburger buns or rice
Bring water to a boil and add salt. Add lentils; boil over medium heat for 20 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally.
While lentils are cooking, heat oil in skillet. Sauté onions over medium heat until translucent. Add tomatoes and garlic, then sauté for 5 minutes.
Add tomato paste, ketchup, mustard, chili powder, molasses, Worcestershire sauce (omit if vegan) and salt. Simmer the stew for 5 to 10 minutes.
When lentils are tender, drain and reserve cooking liquid. Add lentils to tomato sauce. To obtain desired consistency of a traditional sloppy joe, add additional cooking liquid. Stir and heat thoroughly.
Serve hot over open-faced potato rolls, hamburger buns or rice.
YIELD: 4 servings.
WE LOVE ATTENDING street fairs or community festivals in big cities, especially if they’re in places called Little Italy, Ukrainian Village or Greektown. We always go for the pierogis at Polish festivals. No big surprise, given Lisa’s Baltic roots and John’s Slovakian heritage. Among the church-sponsored food tents featuring makeshift food stalls, we bask in the dining experience of made-to-order freshness and, of course, traditional ethnic recipes that may have originated in the homeland many generations ago. Every winter we enjoy this recipe based on the popular Central and Eastern European dumpling filled with potatoes, garlic, cheese and onion.
2½ lbs. potatoes, peeled & cubed (about 5 medium)
¼c. butter (½ stick)
1onion, chopped or 2 small leeks, cleaned & sliced
2garlic cloves, minced
1½ t. seasoning salt
1lb. cheddar cheese, shredded
6c. flour
1t. salt
3eggs, lightly beaten
1½ c. water
Boil potatoes until tender but still firm, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes and mash in large bowl.
Separately, sauté onion or leeks and garlic in butter until tender. Mix onion mixture with mashed potatoes and add cheese and salt. Mix until thoroughly combined.
For dough, combine flour and salt in large bowl. Mix in eggs and water. Turn onto a floured surface and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth, adding more water as needed.
Roll out dough to ⅛-inch thickness. Cut into 5-inch circles, using a bowl as a guide. Place about 3 T. of filling in center, fold over and press edges with the fork tines for an attractive seal.
Place pierogis, a few at a time, into a large pot of boiling water and cook for about 6 minutes until they float to the top. Drain on a clean towel. At this point you can place on baking sheet and freeze for future use.
To serve immediately, fry in butter until both sides are golden brown. Add a dollop of sour cream on top with a sprinkle of finely chopped chives.
YIELD: About 20 pierogi.
This recipe makes a hearty-sized batch so you can keep the freezer pierogi-stocked when you need a quick, easy supper or side dish.
SOMETIMES WE NEED a magic ball of thread to guide our route to some feat which lies ahead of us, perhaps like that offered to Theseus, vanquisher of the Minotaur on the island of Crete. Not only did Theseus kill the Minotaur, led to it through a complex labyrinth by the magic ball of thread he was given, but he was clever enough to unwind the spool so as to find his way back out of the labyrinth after the ordeal was over. Our understanding of our food system and our relationship to the land, the farmers and our daily bread is the magic ball of thread that helps us navigate wiser food choices. This pasta celebrates the Mediterranean diet, with its olives and feta cheese, to nourish you on your food journey through the labyrinth of decisions you’ll face.
1package (10 to 12 oz.) whole wheat pasta (or make your own linguini, page 156)
5garlic cloves, minced
6c. leeks, cleaned and thinly sliced (2 large leeks)
2t. fennel seed
1T. olive oil
½c. water
3c. chopped tomatoes or 2 c. tomato sauce (see page 102)
½c. kalamata olives, chopped 1 T. fresh oregano (1 t. dried)
½t. salt
½c. feta cheese, finely crumbled (½ lb.)
Cook pasta according to directions and set aside.
Sauté garlic, leeks and fennel seed in oil in large skillet until leeks are soft, about 10 minutes. If mixture starts to stick to the pan, add a little water.
Stir in tomatoes, olives, oregano and salt. Simmer uncovered until sauce thickens, about 20 minutes.
Remove from heat. Add feta cheese.
Combine with pasta and serve, garnished with parsley.
YIELD: Serves 5.
Whether it’s baking their own bread, infusing their own oils, starting a compost pile, growing potatoes in a garbage bag, or learning how to make a really good pie. I think these are some of the most satisfying things a human can do in the frenetic pace of modern times and they are demanding more of it.
GEORGIA PELLEGRINI, AUTHOR OF FOOD HEROES AND GIRL HUNTER
HERE’S A RECIPE to satisfy the primal urge to grill the perfect equation: meat plus fire. These lamb kabobs drink up the smoky fire and radiant heat and the grilling mellows out the rich flavor of the lamb. With the higher fat content of the lamb, you’ll find it easier to keep the kabobs juicy and moist, a perfect inaugural dish if you’re a novice grill master. Skip the round of ouzo until you’ve got the grilling done.
2freshly squeezed lemons (or ½ c. lemon juice)
1c. olive oil
2c. dry red wine
½c. fresh oregano (3 T. dried)
2t. seasoning salt
2pounds of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
2medium onions, cut into 1½-inch chunks (for skewering)
2green or red bell peppers, cut into 1½-inch chunks (for skewering)
1c. sour cream
2T. fresh dill, finely chopped (2 t. dried)
1c. cucumber, shredded
1clove garlic, minced
¼t. salt
In a large bowl, mix lemon juice, olive oil, wine, oregano and seasoning salt to create marinade. Place the vegetables and lamb in two separate medium-sized bowls. Pour half the marinade in each bowl to fully cover vegetables and lamb, and stir to coat with marinade. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or ideally overnight, stirring occasionally.
Soak wood skewers in water for an hour prior to skewering (skewers absorb water and are less likely to catch fire). Thread lamb, onion and pepper slices, alternating their order, on skewers.
To grill outdoors, preheat grill to medium heat, then add kebabs and cook for approximately 7 minutes, turning skewers over every couple of minutes for even cooking on all sides. Baste kabobs with remaining marinade. Kabobs can also be broiled in an oven at a medium broiling temperature (500°). Cook for approximately 7 minutes and baste with remaining marinade.
Serve in pita bread (see page 64) with grated lettuce, chopped tomatoes and tzatziki sauce (or Hummus, see page 133).
YIELD: 4 servings.
Mix all ingredients. Chill in refrigerator for 1 hour.
Mix again, then serve as needed. Mixture will last about three days refrigerated.
YIELD: 4 servings.
The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.
MAHATMA GANDHI
WE’RE NUTS OVER THESE vegetarian burgers. Different than most veggie burgers, there’s practically no soy anything in it (nothing, if you skip the Worcestershire sauce), unlike those found in the frozen food section of the grocery store. Since tasting the Wisconsin-original signature Walnut Burger at the historic Trempealeau Hotel in Trempealeau, we worked to come up with our own version of their coveted — and top-secret — recipe. Nutritionally, studies have shown that walnuts are a great source of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids. These burgers also provide plenty of calcium and protein with the cheese and eggs. But it’s the flavor and taste that have turned hamburger lovers a bit nutty.
1onion, finely chopped (about 1 medium)
3cloves garlic, minced
¾c. walnuts, finely chopped
¼c. almonds, finely chopped
1c. bread crumbs (see crouton recipe on page 230 for tips on making your own bread crumbs)
½c. wheat germ
3T. nutritional yeast
½t. sage
½t. thyme
½t. pepper
1t. cumin
1t. coriander
1t. salt
½c. cheddar cheese, grated
½c. mozzarella cheese, grated
¼c. Parmesan cheese, grated
4T. canola oil
1T. Worcestershire sauce
2eggs, beaten
2c. brown rice, cooked and cooled
In a skillet, sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat, until onions are translucent.
In a food processor, combine walnuts, almonds, bread crumbs, wheat germ, yeast, sage, thyme, pepper, cumin, coriander and salt; process until finely ground. Add cheeses and mix together. Then add 1 T. oil, Worcestershire sauce, sautéed onion and garlic; pulse until coarsely mixed. Add cooked rice.
Whisk egg and add egg to blended mixture in food processor and blend to mix.
Divide mixture into 6 equal-size parts; roll into balls, and flatten with the palm of your hand into ¾-inch-thick patties.
Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large non-stick skillet. Over medium heat, fry 8 to 10 minutes for each side until burgers are browned on both sides and crisp.
Serve as you would a hamburger, perhaps with lettuce, tomato and condiments in a bun. We like our Ranch Dressing instead of ketchup or mustard, since it complements the rich nutty flavors of the burger.
YIELD: 8 patties.
Flavor. A Worcestershire sauce offers a way to add a “meaty” umami taste to a dish. It’s made from fermented anchovies with tamarind, garlic, soy sauce and other spices. We stick with the Lea and Perrins brand made in England because it avoids the high-fructose corn syrup found in brands made in the US.
THE SUBTLE CACOPHONY of herbs catapult this rib recipe to the top of our list. We recommend pork spareribs that are flatter and contain more fat which keeps the meat tender.
2freshly squeezed lemons (or ½ c. lemon juice)
1c. red wine vinegar
1c. canola oil
1T. salt
1T. onion salt
1T. celery salt
1T. dried majoram (or 2 T. fresh)
1T. dried oregano (or 2 T. fresh)
1T. dried thyme (or 2 T. fresh)
1T. dried basil (or 2 T. fresh)
3T. soy sauce
3T. Worcestershire sauce 5 cloves garlic, minced
4lbs. pork spareribs
Combine all marinade ingredients in large pot.
Add pork ribs to the pot with marinade and refrigerate overnight.
To cook, place pot on stove and simmer on medium heat for 30 minutes.
Remove ribs from pot, then grill on medium heat for about 15 minutes, flipping once to evenly cook both sides. Ribs can also be broiled in the oven on medium heat (450°) for about 15 minutes, basting every 5 minutes with the remaining marinade. Watch carefully because ribs can burn or dry out quickly when broiling.
To serve, place on large platter, cutting each rib for individual servings.
YIELD: 4 servings.
Spices can be challenging when trying to cook with local ingredients. Turmeric and saffron add distinct flavors to a dish yet come at the cost of plenty of food miles. Here’s our take: Spices fly on cheap seats. They’re light in weight, and proportionately speaking, they go a long way. A little paprika goes further in making a meal than imported tomato sauce from Italy. Because we buy relatively small quantities and try to buy organic and Fair Trade certified spices, we can sprinkle curry with confidence, knowing that the people and the land that produced it are being paid fairly and cared for. We use spices from Frontier, an Iowa-based co-op and the spice industry leader in sustainable sourcing. You’ll find Frontier products in bulk aisles at natural food stores and co-ops.
FOR MANY OF US, one of our earliest memories of a homemade meal is a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. As evidence, the average American kid eats a 125-foot-high tower of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches by the time they graduate high school. We like a good old PB&J every now and then. But when we buy organic peanut butter by the five-pound jar at our natural foods co-op, most of it gets cooked into dishes, adding both flavor and a protein punch. The peanut butter combined with soy sauce give this pasta dish an Asian flair. Paired with the asparagus and chives, it adds a different twist to spring flavors.
½c. chicken or vegetable stock
2T. soy sauce
1T. peanut butter
2T. onion, minced
1T. lemon juice
1t. brown sugar, packed
1lb. fresh asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
6oz. pasta (or make your own linguini, page 156)
½c. green onions or chives, chopped
Cook pasta according to directions and set aside.
In a small saucepan, combine the broth, soy sauce, peanut butter, onion, lemon juice and brown sugar. Stir constantly and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and keep warm.
At the same time, in a large skillet, sauté asparagus in olive oil for about 8 minutes. Add green onions and sauté for about 3 minutes until crisp-tender.
Drain pasta and toss with vegetables and sauce before serving in large bowl.
YIELD: 4 servings.
