Index

abbess: Elisabeth Pawel 147, 14951, 153, 155, 163n18; Mechthild von Vechelde 144, 147, 149, 15162, 163nn18–19, 165 n. 35; work of 4, 14, 14462
agency, female 5, 1011, 112, 114, 200, 208, 214; cultural agency 14, 17; spiritual agency 153; in urban economy 193, 196
alms: gender of recipients 18384; licence to beg for 176, 181, 189n68; as wife’s responsibility 132, 181; Willoughby family and alms giving/gathering 173, 18183; as women’s work 18083
apprentices: female 127; and female servants 12829; informal forms of female apprenticeships 19899; and labour of wife 126, 12830; women taking on 83, 195, 221; women unable to train as 107, 125, 195, 198, 210n29; see also widows, widowhood
authority: conflicts over 200, 22130; exclusion of women from 182, 195, 207, 218; female 45, 10, 1516, 36, 11315, 117, 14849, 151, 153, 154, 15560, 166n8, 197, 199, 21415, 217, 223, 22627, 230, 231; female abuse of 53; and gender 159, 216, 223, 23132; of head of household 137, 142n73; limits to female 11, 16, 145, 150, 154, 158, 195, 199, 210n16, 214, 21617; and marriage 23031; negotiating 3, 145, 15658, 215, 216, 22324; see also consensus; patriarchy
beggars 16, 16985; licence to beg 18081; punishment for 17374; see also vagabonds; vagrancy
biblical figures: Adam 19, 7172, 88, 95n1; Christ 112, 115; Wisdom 103, 107, 108, 11017; see also Eve; Virgin Mary
brewing 10, 130, 138, 139n31; as female-run business 15, 124, 125, 130
Brunswick 14449; City Council (Rat) 147, 149, 159, 163n18
chansons de toile, cloth and cloth work in: cloth of gold 52, 54, 59, 64; cutting 55, 58, 59; embroidery 52, 5354, 5556, 58, 60, 65, 66, 67, 68nn11–12; flax 61; gold and/or silver thread 52, 55, 57, 60, 63; needlework 56; orfrois 52, 55, 60, 63, 64; samite 57, 58, 63; sewing 53, 5556, 5960, 66; silk cloth 53, 54, 56, 57, 63, 64; spinning 55, 56, 59, 60, 61; tailoring 55, 56, 58
chansons de toile, protagonists of: Bele Aelis 52, 60, 65, 69n25, 69n32; Bele Aiglentine 58, 62; Bele Amelot 61, 69n26; Bele Aude 52, 5556, 5960; Bele Aye 5254, 58, 61, 62, 6364, 6567; Bele Beatris 5657; Bele Doe 5354, 61; Bele Doette 61; Bele Emmelos 53, 62, 63; Bele Erembours 54, 57, 62; Bele Ydoine 62, 6364; Bele Yolanz 5556, 578; Bele Yzabel 61; Conrad 52, 54, 5859, 62, 63, 65, 66, 6869n20, 69n32; Doon 52, 5455, 60, 6; Guillaume de Dole 58, 59, 60, 61, 6566, 68 n. 20; Lienor 5254, 55, 60, 61, 62, 63, 6567, 68n12, 6869 n. 20, 69 n. 25, 69nn32–33
charity 178185; cloth work as 54; and unemployment 23n16; see also alms; collections for poor; Exeter
childcare 8, 127, 13235; and theories of gendered division of textile labour 8182, 84
children 12, 88, 127, 130, 132, 13334, 138, 141n62, 197, 217, 219, 225, 227; of beggars or vagrants 177, 17980, 183; child labour 130, 173, 179, 180; education of 112, 114; as heirs 217, 22425; provision for 103, 202, 203
cloth workers 4, 21, 5170; as foreign labour 6165
courtliness 4142, 61, 63; women’s textile work and 52, 59, 65
crafts (métiers) 10, 74, 75, 79, 81, 87, 105, 180, 194, 196, 208; bakery 22122; building/construction 20, 28n72, 173, 178, as allegory 20; butchery 81; carpentry 81; coppersmithing 219; household 12438; illuminating 10, 10607; metal work 81; millinery 222; pipe making 10, 218, 22426; scribal 10, 47n28, 10406; tanning 125; see also cloth work; guilds; Livre des métiers; textile production
economy: domestic/household 14, 17, 23n6, 61, 72, 129131, 13536, 206; market 12, 1415, 22, 65, 86, 12526, 128, 173, 192, 226; monastic 150; Parisian 75; spiritual 15253; underground/illicit 192, 20001, 208; urban 124, 19296, 21415, 224, 230, 234n21
embroiderers 5267, 68n19, 74, 81, 127; male 7475, 81; professional 55, 60, 7475; and social rank 5354, 56, 6567, 68n11, 79
Exeter: alms giving/poor relief 18384; parish relief 172; women punished as vagabonds 17577
family 15, 1617, 66, 68n20, 10304, 12438, 163n18, 197, 206, 208, 214, 215, 218, 219, 223, 226, 23132; maintaining family ties 17, 3435, 47n36, 13536, 166n58; religious family 14462; Willoughby family 181, 183; women learning a craft within 10507; see also household
friendship 30, 43; ideals of 21, 3642; networks 18, 61, 129, 13536, 197, 207
gender 2, 4, 6, 9, 12, 1820, 23n7, 32, 10708, 117, 14851, 20406, 217, 223, 229, 23132; and authority 145, 159, 161, 221, 232; beggars and poor relief 18285; and governance 145, 14862, 22631; and guilds 21718, 221, 223; and pre-industrial economy 19293, 215; and research into vagrancy 17074; and space 197, 208; and textile production 7195, 96n14, 97n24, 98n47, 20405
Gouda, guilds: blacksmiths 220; fruit and vegetable sellers 222; pipe-makers 218, 22426; rope makers 222; tailors (female board) 218; wood merchants 220; see also female regents
guilds: in Lyon 192208, 210n29; mixed gender 218; in the Netherlands 21726, 231; Nuremberg 78; sources 5, 73, 7576, 215; women’s involvement in 4, 56, 1516, 18, 60, 73, 7576, 78, 8687, 94, 96n13, 98n37, 129, 13738; see also Gouda, guilds; Leiden; Livre des métiers; Lyon; Paris; York
guilds, exclusively female: craft of silk dyers, 99n56; Paris, craft of silk textiles 85; Rouen, linen drapers 87
guild regulations 16, 94, 140n38; Dutch 215, 218, 219, 221, 223, 224; Lyon 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 207; Parisian 85; see also guilds; Livre des métiers; Lyon; statutes
historiography: feminist 23, 8, 1013; idea of work 34, 79; women’s work 3, 1013, 16, 21, 22, 26n47, 7375, 17072, 1923, 21718
household 10, 1415, 17, 58, 73, 76, 84, 12438, 175, 178, 204, 208, 219, 231; artisanal 12425, 128, 134, 206; elite 1516, 54, 60, 61, 67; mercantile 12425, 128; monastic 14; women’s management of 108, 13133, 138, 22728; see also family; space(s) of work; workshop
husbands 17, 87, 101n89, 106, 12438, 181, 19495, 199, 202, 204, 216, 22426, 230; abusive 6263, 20203; assisted by women 12529, 178, 195, 20406, 208, 214; death of 181, 22326; head of household 138, 142n73; jealous 5354, 56; women take on business of 87, 10405, 107, 20405, 21820, 222
intimacy 14, 2021, 30, 3643, 13637
labour 24, 10, 1416, 1920, 22, 7172, 86, 124, 12628, 133, 144, 157, 164n30, 17374, 17880, 194, 214, 221; ‘assistance labour’ 221; as distinct from work 79, 2021, 23 n. 16, 24n20, 14849, 16970; emotional 3, 14; gendered division of 8184, 86, 100 n. 77, 17375; scarcity of in fourteenth and fifteenth centuries 12728, 173; visual images of 1920, 72, 82, 86, 8893; writing as 4, 20, 3336, 109, 111, 117n4; see also unpaid work; wages; work
labourers 22, 60, 8485, 99n60, 154, 201; in England 171, 173, 178, 182; female 3, 22, 173, 178, 196, 218; in Gouda 218; in Lyon 194, 196; see also Livre des métiers
law 16, 53, 172, 193, 21517, 224, 226, 230; common law (Paris) 195, 210nn16–17; English statutes 170, 17274, 179, 18788n39; poor law 16970, 179, 182; vagrancy law 16985; see also inheritance; statutes
Leiden 215, 219; apothecary, women running 220; bakers and their widows 221; coppersmiths 219; fuller’s guild 140n38; orphanage 229, 232; textile industry 21920, 234n21; see also female regents
letters 1718, 3043, 113, 172; begging letters 17576, 181; as evidence 3032; as intellectual labour 2021, 33; petitions 18, 215, 219, 221, 222, 223, 224, 230; see also Tegernseer Liebesbriefe (Tegernsee Love Letters)
letter writing 2021, 3043; as performance 132, 38, 39, 40, 43; as philosophical discourse 37, 3941, 43; see also writing
licence 138n5, 224; to beg 170, 176, 18183, 187n38, 189n68; to trade 138n5
looms 77, 8586, 97nn32–33, 97n35, 98n47, 100n73, 101n85; economic implications of women’s access to 8586; women permitted to own 195, 200; women prohibited to own 196; women using 196, 203
loom types: box 8586, 89; broadloom 86; floor 8586; horizontal 7778, 8687, 98n37, 101n85; loom for handkerchiefs 202; treadle-operated floor 77; vertical 7778, 86, 89, 101n85; warp-weighted 73, 77, 86
love 4, 2021, 3132, 3643, 5167, 117; divine 115
Lyon 56, 1618, 192208; gendered space in 197, 201, 20408; Grande Fabrique (silk industry regulatory body) 19397, 200, 202, 207; infringements of guild statutes 197208; women’s authorised participation in textile industry 19596; see also guilds; guimpiers (gauze makers); passementiers; seamstresses; tailors/tailoring
monastery 14462; managing spiritual affairs of 145, 148, 15155; managing temporal affairs of 145, 149, 15460; see also abbess; provost
mother, motherhood 12, 52, 5461, 66, 91, 10304, 108, 109, 11316, 124, 126, 13335, 199, 203, 220, 22629
noblewomen 1, 1920, 3435, 5354, 60, 64, 67, 68n11, 79, 164n24; education of 34
Norwich 130; vagabonds in 169, 172, 17576, 179, 183; weaving in 98n47
nuns 4, 14, 27n57, 3335, 37, 93, 14468; see also abbess; monastery; prayer
occupations 23, 811, 13, 18, 68n11, 75, 7981, 83, 85, 99n64, 104, 108, 127, 128, 134, 137, 170, 173, 222, 223, 226; see also cloth work; crafts; trades
orphanage(s): in Amsterdam 228; archives 215; conflicts in gendered governance of 22630; in Leiden 229, 232; in Middelburg 228; in Utrecht 227
Paris 16, 195, 202, 218, 231; book trade 106; guilds 60, 8586, 96n13; silk industries 75, 84, 8586, 97n24; see also Livre des métiers; Pizan, Christine de
patronage 14, 3031, 32, 3436, 42, 47n34, 98n39; royal 113, 117
Pizan, Christine de 1, 4, 6, 14, 17, 20, 91, 10323; Enseignemens (alt. Enseignemens moraulx) 111, 113, 116, 121n75; Epistre a la Royne 114; Epistres du debat sus le Rommant de la Rose 110, 117; Epistre Othea 111, 113; handwriting 10405; Livre de l’Advision Cristine 106; Livre de la Cite des Dames (Book of the City of Ladies) 20, 91, 106, 108, 110, 114; Livre de la mutacion de fortune 108, 112; Livre des trois vertus 11011, 113; Livre du chemin de lonc estude 11011; Le Livre du corps de policie 111; Oroison de Notre Dame 11516; see also writing
poverty 1516, 64, 85, 160, 17072, 19899, 20304, 208
prayer 14, 93, 111, 11516, 14446, 14849, 15152
provost: of female monastery 14462; Royal Provost of France 75
punishments 53, 64; of children 229; of vagabonds 16978, 181, 185, 18788n39; of wife 142n73
Roman de la Violette 51; see also chansons de toile (sewing songs)
seamstresses 55, 58, 125, 218; conflict with tailors in Lyon 19798; see also Lyon; tailors/tailoring
service 34, 111, 133, 17980; domestic 15, 127, 129, 179; public 226
sex 4, 59, 6466, 124, 127, 13637
silk 16, 17, 5265, 76, 7880, 8486, 100n77, 127, 197, 200203, 208; foreign workers of 6365; imported 63; silk threads 18, 60, 63, 98n43, 197; see also Lyon; Paris; spinning; weaving
smuggling 19293, 20308, 211n65; in the Dauphiné 203, 205; in Grenoble 20406; see also illegal activities; illicit economy; Lyon
spaces (of work) 17, 75, 83, 8687, 94, 12425, 130, 134, 208; courtly/royal 34, 58, 59, 60, 67; domestic/household 4, 6, 8, 15, 86, 99, 12425, 127, 128, 13133, 13537, 178, 205, 208; gendered 75, 84, 8687, 93, 125, 197, 20506; inns 198, 199, 205; monastic 3334, 14462; neighbourhood 17, 201, 208; place of work and residence 124, 125, 134, 208; textile production 8283, 84, 8687, 93, 94; ‘underground’ 20003, 205; urban 17, 106, 12438, 193, 20406, 207, 208; workshop 15, 18, 60, 82, 84, 87, 99n56, 105, 105, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 134, 19495, 196, 198, 199, 218, 219, 22024, 234 n. 28; workshops, clandestine 199, 206; see also begging; vagabonds; vagrancy
spinning 19, 28n68, 5556, 5961, 71, 75, 77, 7982, 8485, 8688, 9091, 93, 108, 12829, 134, 138, 200, 202; gold and silver thread 197; men spinning 87, 90, 93, 100n75; silk 76, 197
statutes: Cistercian 152; embroidery (Paris) 60; for monastic servants 15657; Statute of Labourers (1349) 173; vagrancy 16980, 182; see also guild regulations; law; Livre des metiers; Lyon
tailors/tailoring 55, 56, 58, 79, 80, 195, 206, 209n6; conflict with seamstresses in Lyon 19798; see also Gouda, guilds
textile production 65, 71102, 125, 173, 192200, 220; in art 7678, 81, 8893; and childcare 82; domestic 12829; Elizabeth Barber, theories of, 8184; in literature 73, 7879, 88; technology for 73, 75, 8488; in the workhouse 17879; see also cloth work; crafts; guilds; Lyon
textiles 71102, 136, 192213; cotton 204; luxury 5455, 72; see also calicos; cloth work; silk
trades 5, 10, 14, 15, 1619, 75, 108, 12526, 135, 137, 214, 22425; leather 126; textiles 80, 8488, 12627, 19296, 20208; victualling 126; see also crafts; Paris, book trade
Troyes, Chrétien de, Cligès 57; Perceval 85; Yvain ou le chevalier au lion 64, 79
Virgin Mary: compared with Eve 19, 88, 93; as humble handmaiden 110; as model for women and cloth work 19, 8890, 93, 101nn83–85, 134; and Wisdom 103, 110, 11417; and Ysabel of Bavaria, queen of France 11415
wages 8, 15, 126, 127, 170, 173, 178, 183, 222; silk 98n40, 196; weaving 7677, 79, 8182, 8586, 8889, 98n47, 128, 134, 196; women’s 13, 15, 173, 184, 196, 208, 218; and writing 101n93; see also looms; narrow wares
widows, widowhood 11, 1415, 18, 85, 10304, 108, 135, 177, 196, 198, 20204, 206, 208, 23031; within guilds 193, 195, 199; management of workshop/business 87, 107, 129, 195, 20405, 214, 21726
wife: wives 6, 11, 15, 17, 53, 88, 133, 140n38, 140n51, 141n68, 176, 185, 195, 196, 197, 216, 21920, 22324, 227, 231; bourgeois wife 1920, 12438, 142n73; economic contribution to household of 14, 12931, 182; elite wives’ responsibilities compared with monastic governance 14; housewife 9, 1920, 185; idealised 88, 142n74; illicit activity of 199, 20204, 206; labouring/working with husbands 126, 178, 199, 206, 220; merchant wives 133, 136; of Noah 93; see also noblewomen; Virgin Mary
work: cultural 13, 4, 9, 1921, 22, 3043, 51, 63, 67, 10717, 132; cultural construction of 79, 23n8; definition 79; domestic 8, 14, 15, 82, 86, 8889, 94, 99n63, 108, 124, 128, 13135, 13637, 173, 183, 214, 231; economic aspects 3, 5, 79, 1217, 5866, 7576, 8188, 104, 12426, 12833, 13637, 14851, 15560, 170, 173, 17885, 19293, 198, 201, 20608, 21415, 22026, 231; iconography of 1920, 28n68, 7172, 7679, 8283, 86, 8893, 100n73, 132, 134; intellectual 2, 4, 9, 14, 2021, 3043, 10323; kinship 17, 13536, 141n68; penal 17879; semantic history of 79, 25n35; spiritual 79, 20, 111, 114, 11516, 14445, 146, 148, 15155; status of 15, 79, 87, 99n63, 157, 195, 19798, 219, 231; see also historiography; illegal activities; labour; unpaid work; wages
workshop 60, 73, 82, 87, 125, 196, 198, 199, 208; women’s involvement in 15, 18, 60, 84, 87, 99n56, 10506, 124, 12630, 134, 19395, 199, 206, 21824; see also household; spaces (of work); widows, widowhood
writing 17; allegories of birth, 109, 11516, building/construction 20; as didactic tool 3738, 103, 11117, 115; as occupation 17, 10317; see also Clinton, Elizabeth; labour; letter writing; Pizan, Christine de; weaving
York 96n15, 125, 12830, 132, 13537, 17879, 183; ecclesiastical court 124, 12526; guild ordinances 126, 129, 132