DAIKON KINPIRA

SERVES 6

THIS VERSION OF THE CLASSIC Japanese vegetable dish that I learned to make when I was a young cook in Tokyo is based on daikon; the traditional dish highlights burdock root, and if you can find it for this recipe, all the better. Now, I make kinpira with any mix of root vegetables, and sometimes with just carrots and daikon. Use what you have; the amount of each vegetable doesn’t really matter. Kinpira requires some peeling and cutting, but this delicious salad is well worth it. The flavors are so pure and clean and you feel good just eating it. Refrigerated, it will keep for about 5 days.

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 stalks salsify, peeled and cut into matchsticks (here)

2 stalks burdock root, peeled and cut into matchsticks (optional)

1 clove garlic, minced

2 carrots, cut into matchsticks

½ celery root (about ½ pound), peeled and cut into matchsticks

2 small daikon, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 cup Dashi (here)

3 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 tablespoon sugar

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Fresh lemon juice

3 scallions (green parts), thinly sliced

Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. The vegetables that take the longest to cook go in first: Add the salsify, burdock, and garlic and stir for about a minute. Add the carrots and celery root and stir for another couple of minutes. Add the daikon and stir for about a minute.

Add the dashi, mirin, sugar, and red pepper flakes and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are slightly tender and the liquid is almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce, bring to a simmer, and remove the skillet from the heat. Stir in the remaining tablespoon sesame oil, sesame seeds, and a big squeeze of lemon juice. Let kinpira cool in the skillet or a bowl before serving. Top with the scallions.