Index

A

almonds

charlotte Malakoff au chocolat, 164–165

cheesecake, 159–160

dessert, uncooked, 142–143

fyrste kake, 154–155

kulfi, 153

linzertorte, 144–145

orange rice pilaf, 137

parfait, toasted, 169

Paris-Brest, 146–148

appetizers and first courses

baba g’hanouj, 14

chopped chicken livers, Phyllis Blumberg’s, 19

crabmeat pastry, 4–5

dolmathes, 15–16

homous, 13

momos, 6–9

Moroccan chermoulah, 12

pâté de campagne, 22–23

quiches, 17–18

salad méchouia, 10–11

shrimp

in dill pesto, 3

New Orleans, 2

Sicilian broccoli, 120

See also soup

apricots

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

artichokes

and chicken (pollo al limone), 74–75

and chick-peas vinaigrette, 125

B

baba g’hanouj, 14

baklava, 156–157

bananas

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

raita, 131

beans, kidney. See kidney beans

beans, shell

Eric Widmer’s succotash, 138

bean sprout salad, 121

béchamel sauce, 89

beef

borscht, Putney School, 46–47

carbonnades flamandes, 108–109

chili, Joy Walker’s, 66–67

cocida Valenciana, 112–113

dirty rice, 110–111

lasagna, 106–107

meatballs

Swedish, 78–79

sweet, 66–67

momos, 6–9

moussaka, 84–86

nasi goreng, 92–94

ragoût, 72–73

roulades piquantes, 87–88

spaghetti sauce, 99–100

stifatho, 104–105

beets

Putney School borscht, 46–47

biscuit tortoni, 158

Blumberg, Phyllis

chopped chicken livers, 19

borscht, Putney School, 46–47

bouquet garni, 110

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

brandy Alexander pie, 151–152

bread

pumpernickel, 20–21

Swedish limpa, 24–25

Syrian (pita), 11

bread crumbs

to make, 122

broccoli

Sicilian, 120

soup, 30

bulghur wheat salad (tabbouleh), 128

butter, clarified, 139

butter nutball cookies, 163

C

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

cakes

almond cheesecake, 159–160

fyrste kake, 154–155

carbonnades flamandes, 108–109

cashews

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

cauliflower soup, 36

Chao, Phebe

Chinese spiced eggplant, 118–119

charlotte Malakoff au chocolat, 164–165

Cheddar cheese

chilaquiles, 50–51

green enchiladas, 95–96

cheese

Cheddar

chilaquiles, 50–51

green enchiladas, 95–96

cream

almond cheesecake, 159–160

farmer’s

spanokopita, 44–45

feta

beef stifatho, 104–105

with shrimp, 48–49

spanokopita, 44–45

mozzarella

lasagna, 106–107

Parmesan

chicken Parisienne, 56–57

moussaka, 85

pesto, 101

ricotta

lasagna, 106–107

Romano

chicken Parisienne, 56–57

lasagna, 106–107

Swiss

quiche, 17–18

cheesecake, almond, 159–160

cherries

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

chermoulah, Moroccan, 12

chicken

Bengal, 58–59

broth, 50

chilaquiles, 50–51

livers

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

pâté de campagne, 22–23

Phyllis Blumberg’s, 20

nasi goreng, 92–94

paprikash, 54–55

Parisienne, 56–57

pâté de campagne, 22–23

pollo al Jerez, 82–83

pollo al limone, 74–75

soup, Senegalese, 40–41

tandoori, 52–53

chick-peas

and artichokes vinaigrette, 125

homous, 13

Portuguese sausage casserole, 70–71

chilaquiles, 50–51

chili, Joy Walker’s, 66–67

chili paste, 118

chili peppers. See peppers, hot

Chinese noodles with meat sauce, 102–103

Chinese spiced eggplant, 118–119

chocolate

charlotte Malakoff au chocolat, 164–165

pumpernickel bread, 20–21

chutney, kishmish, 130

clam chowder, New England, 34–35

clarified butter, 135

cocida Valenciana, 112–113

cold cucumber soup, 28

conversion table, xxiv

cookies, butter nutball, 163

cooking time, xxv

coriander (“cilantro,” “Chinese parsley”), 66

corn

Eric Widmer’s succotash, 138

couscous, xxix, 60–62

sweet meatballs, 63–64

crabmeat pastry, 4–5

cracked wheat salad (tabbouleh), 128

cream cheese

almond cheesecake, 159–160

cream of mushroom soup, 26–27

cream puffs, 146–148

crème pralinée, 146, 148

Crespo, Vicente de

cocida Valenciana, 112–113

cucumber

raita, 135–136

soup

cold, 28

and yogurt, 29

curries

chicken Bengal, 58–59

with kishmish chutney, 130

lamb (rogan jaush), 76–77

lentil (dhal), 135–136

with orange rice pilaf, 137

pork vindaloo, 68–69

with raitas, 131–132

curry powder, 58

D

dashi, 80

desserts

almond cheesecake, 159–160

almond, uncooked, 142–143

almond parfait, toasted, 169

baklava, 156–157

biscuit tortoni, 158

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

brandy Alexander pie, 151–152

butter nutball cookies, 163

charlotte Malakoff au chocolat, 164–165

fyrste kake, 154–155

kulfi, 153

lemon mousse, 166

linzertorte, 144–145

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

Paris-Brest, 146–148

rum cream, frozen, 149

strawberries with sabayon sauce, 150

dhal, 135–136

dill pesto, 3

dirty rice, 110–111

dolmathes, 15–16

dumplings. See momos

E

egg pancakes, 94

eggplant

baba g’hanouj, 14

Chinese spiced, 118–119

moussaka, 84–86

ratatouille, 123–124

enchiladas, green, 95–96

Eric Widmer’s succotash, 138

F

farmer’s cheese

spanokopita, 44–45

fermented watercress soup, 37

feta cheese

beef stifatho, 104–105

with shrimp, 48–49

spanokopita, 44–45

figs

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

fox noodles, 80–81

French dressing, 2

with garlic, 127

frozen rum cream, 149

fruit cup, brandied, 161–162

fruit dahi, Nepali, 167–168

fyrste kake, 154–155

G

garlic

to peel, 31

French dressing, 127

soup, 31–32

ghee, 135

Glaude, Gladys, 110

dirty rice, 110–111

goulash. See szekely gulyas

grapefruit

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

grape leaves, stuffed (dolmathes), 15–16

green enchiladas, 95–96

H

ham

roulades piquantes, 87–88

harissa, 10, 60

hearty spaghetti sauce, 99–100

herbs, xxii

bouquet garni, 108

hoisin sauce, 102

homous, 13

I

ice cream

toasted almond parfait, 169

J

Joy Walker’s chili, 66–67

K

kidney beans, red

Joy Walker’s chili, 66–67

kidney beans, white

Portuguese sausage casserole, 70–71

kishmish chutney, 130

kulfi, 153

kumquats

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

L

lamb

couscous, 60–62

moussaka, 84–86

rogan jaush, 76–77

sweet meatballs, 63–64

lapin chasseur, 65

lasagna, 106–107

legumes See chick-peas; kidney beans; lentils

lemons

and chicken (polio al limone), 74–75

mousse, 166

lentils

dhal, 135–136

soup with mettwurst, 38–39

limpa bread, Swedish, 24–25

linzertorte, 144–145

M

measurements

conversion table, xxxiv

for spices, xxv, xxvi

meat. See individual meats

meatballs

Swedish, 78–79

sweet, 66–67

méchouia, salad, 10–11

mirch, Kashmiri, 52

momos, xxix, 6–9

Moroccan chermoulah, 12

moussaka, 84–86

mousse, lemon, 166

mozzarella cheese

lasagna, 106–107

mushrooms

cream of mushroom soup, 26–27

hearty spaghetti sauce, 99–100

mustard oil, 6n

N

nasi goreng, 92–94

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

New England clam chowder, 34–35

New Orleans shrimp, 2

noodles

chicken Parisienne, 56–57

Chinese, with meat sauce, 102–103

fox, 80–81

O

olive oil, 127n

onions

to peel, 82n, 114

quiche, 17–18

ratatouille, 123–124

salad, with oranges and cress, 126

oranges

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

rice pilaf, 137

salad, with red onions and cress, 126

P

pachadi, tomato, 133

pancakes

egg, 94

green enchiladas, 95–96

paprika

Hungarian, 52, 54

Spanish, 52

paprikash, chicken, 54–55

parfait, toasted almond, 169

Paris-Brest, 146–148

Parmesan cheese

chicken Parisienne, 56–57

moussaka, 85

pesto, 101

pasta. See lasagna; noodles; spaghetti

pastry

cream puffs, 146–148

phyllo

baklava, 156–157

with crabmeat, 4–5

with spinach (spanokopita), 44–45

tarts (linzertorte), 144–145

pâté de campagne, 22–23

pavo estofado, 114–115

peanuts

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

pecans

baklava, 156–157

butter nutball cookies, 163

peppers, hot

to clean, 50n

chicken Bengal, 58–59

chicken tandoori, 52–53

chilaquiles, 50–51

chili, Joy Walker’s, 66–67

Chinese spiced eggplant, 118–119

couscous, 60–62

green enchiladas, 95–96

momos, 6–9

pork vindaloo, 68–69

rogan jaush, 76–77

salad méchouia, 10–11

tomato pachadi, 133

peppers, sweet

Chinese spiced eggplant, 118–119

Moroccan chermoulah, 12

ratatouille, 123–124

salad méchouia, 10–11

spaghetti sauce, 99–100

pesto, 101

dill, 3

Phyllis Blumberg’s chopped chicken livers, 19

phyllo (pastry)

baklava, 156–157

with crabmeat, 4–5

with spinach (spanokopita), 44–45

pie, brandy Alexander, 151–152

pilaf, orange rice, 137

pineapple

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

pita, 10

pollo al Jerez, 82–83

pollo al limone, 74–75

pork

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

meat sauce, 102–103

momos, 6–9

pâté de campagne, 22–23

roulades piquantes, 87–88

Swedish meatballs, 78–79

szekely gulyas, 97–98

vindaloo, 68–69

See also sausage

Portuguese sausage casserole, 70–71

potatoes

achar, 134

Putney School borscht, 46–47

spinach soup, 33

watercress soup, fermented, 37

pots, pans, and utensils, xxv, xxviii

steamer, improvised, xxix, 60

praline powder, 146, 147

prunes

pavo estofado, 114–115

sweet meatballs, 63–64

pumpernickel bread, 20–21

Putney School borscht, 46–47

Q

quiches, 17–18

R

rabbit stew (lapin chasseur), 65

ragoût, beef, 72–73

raisins

kishmish chutney, 130

orange rice pilaf, 137

raita

banana, 131

cucumber, 131–132

rice

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

dirty, 110–111

herbed, in dolmathes, 15–16

orange pilaf, 137

salad, 129

ricotta cheese

lasagna, 106–107

Romano cheese

chicken Parisienne, 56–57

lasagne, 106–107

rosewater, 153

roulades piquantes, 87–88

S

sabayon sauce, 155

salad dressings

French (vinaigrette), 2

garlic, 127

salads

artichokes and chick-peas vinaigrette, 125

bean sprouts, 121

greens, preparation of, xxix, 126

méchouia, 10–11

orange-red onion-cress, 126

rice, 129

tabbouleh, 128

Sarkisian, Ellen

dolmathes, 15–16

sauces

béchamel, 86

meat, 104–105

pesto, 101

dill, 3

sabayon, 155

tomato

canned, 87

fresh, 86

hearty spaghetti, 99–100

spicy, 6, 7, 9

vinaigrette (French), 3

garlic, 130

sauerkraut

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

szekely gulyas, 97–98

sausage

Chinese, with fox noodles, 80–81

with lentil soup, 38–39

Portuguese casserole, 70–71

seafood

crabmeat pastry, 4–5

clam chowder, New England 34–35

shrimp

bean sprout salad, 121

in dill pesto, 3

with feta cheese, 48–49

nasi goreng, 92–94

New Orleans, 2

quiche, 17–18

tuna (salad méchouia), 10–11

Senegalese soup, 40–41

sesame oil, 92, 118

sesame paste (tahini)

and chick-peas (homous), 13

and eggplant (baba g’hanouj), 14

sesame seeds

broccoli soup, 30

Shi, Mr.

fermented watercress soup, 37

shrimp

bean sprout salad, 121

in dill pesto, 3

with feta cheese, 48–49

nasi goreng, 92–94

New Orleans, 2

quiche, 17–18

Sicilian broccoli, 120

soup

borscht, Putney School, 46–47

broccoli, 30

cauliflower, 36

chicken broth, 53

clam chowder, New England, 34–35

cocido Valenciana, broth, 112–113

cucumber

cold, 28

and yogurt, 29

garlic, 31–32

lentil, with mettwurst, 38–39

mushroom, cream of, 27–28

Senegalese, 40–41

spinach, 33

watercress, fermented, 37

soybean curd (tofu)

fox noodles, 80–81

spaghetti

sauce

meat, 102–103

pesto, 101

tomato, 101–102

and soybean curd, 80–81

spanokopita, 47–48

spices, xxxii, xxxiii

measurement, xxv, xxvi

spinach

quiche, 17–18

soup, 33

spanokopita, 44–45

squash. See zucchini

stews

beef ragoût, 72–73

beef stifatho, 104–105

carbonnades flamandes, 108–109

lapin chasseur, 65

ratatouille, 123–124

stifatho, beef, 104–105

strawberries

brandied fruit cup, 161–162

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

with sabayon sauce, 150

stuffed cabbage, 89–91

Swedish limpa bread, 24–25

Swedish meatballs, 78–79

sweet meatballs, 63–64

Swiss cheese

quiche, 17–18

Syrian bread (pita), 10

szekely gulyas, 97–98

T

tabbouleh, 128

tahini

and chick-peas (homous), 13

and eggplant (baba g’hanouj), 14

tandoori, chicken, 52–53

toasted almond parfait, 169

tofu

fox noodles, 80–81

tomatoes

to peel, 49

beef stifatho, 104–105

cabbage, stuffed, 89–91

chilaquiles, 50–51

chili, Joy Walker’s, 66–67

garlic soup, 31–32

kishmish chutney, 130

pachadi, 133

pollo al Jerez, 82–83

pork vindaloo, 68–69

Portuguese sausage casserole, 70–71

Provençale, 122

ratatouille, 123–124

rogan jaush, 76–77

salad méchouia, 10–11

sauce

canned, 84

fresh, 86

hearty spaghetti, 99–100

spicy, 6, 7, 9

shrimp with feta cheese, 48–49

and zucchini, casserole, 139

tuna salad (méchouia), 10–11

turkey

pavo estofado, 114–115

U

uncooked almond dessert, 142–143

V

veal

pâte de campagne, 22–23

Swedish meatballs, 79–79

vegetables

garlic soup, 31–32

quiches, 17–18

raita, 135–136

ratatouille, 123–124

See also individual vegetables

vinaigrette dressing, 2

garlic, 127

W

Walker, Joy

chili, 66–67

walnuts

baklava, 156–157

butter nutball cookies, 163

watercress

salad, with oranges and red onions, 126

soup, fermented, 37

Widmer, Eric

succotash, 138

Williams, Louella, 110

green enchiladas, 95–96

working area, xxviii

for salads, xxix, 126

Y

Yarborough, Trin

cocida Valenciana, 112–113

yogurt

banana raita, 131

cucumber raita, 131–132

and cucumber soup, 29

Nepali fruit dahi, 167–168

Z

zucchini

ratatouille, 123–124

and tomatoes, casserole, 139