WHAT’S NEW
Responding to Crisis
It doesn’t take someone with a job on the Athens Stock Exchange to tell you that times are tough in the cradle of democracy—but don’t be spooked by the headlines. The Acropolis isn’t for sale, and all the natural beauty and updated tourism and cultural sites are still open. Life goes on—in colorful Greek style—but the country’s changing finances have brought other changes to Greek society.
Greece became synonymous with the words “economic crisis” when its public debt topped €350 billion. The dire situation caused by overspending on infrastructure, services, and public-sector wages worsened further thanks to rampant tax dodging. Although the roots of the country’s financial crisis were decades in the making, the response by the financial markets was not. Large financial institutions were suddenly reluctant to invest further in Greece until the country got its financial house in better order. As a result, the country’s borrowing costs skyrocketed, and by 2010, Greece found itself in need of a bailout.
The European Union, International Monetary Fund, and European Central Bank—collectively known as “the troika”—agreed to help Greece in its hour of need, but this financial rescue came with significant strings attached. While Greece was offered huge loans to bridge its budgetary chasm, EU authorities required the country to implement stringent austerity measures to cut down on government spending. The Greeks did not like these measures at all and showed their frustration. Protests, strikes, and even some violent riots, hit the capital as the government slashed pay and benefits for state employees, reduced incomes, and raised taxes. Unemployment soared, and hundreds of thousands working in the private sector didn’t see paychecks for months at a time.
In response to the uncertain economic and social climate, Greek leadership changed hands. In 2012, Andreas Papandreou’s Panhellenic Socialist Movement (PASOK) collapsed. Antonis Samaras, the president of New Democracy, became the new prime minister. Unexpectedly, a new, controversial far-right political party, Golden Dawn, gained seats in parliament. Golden Dawn’s members had been accused of violent attacks against immigrants and are said to follow neo-Nazi philosophies. But the situation is not entirely grim.
Family and Forward Thinking
While the bleak economy and high unemployment have meant that some Greeks have left their homeland for better opportunities abroad, a strong sense of family has allowed others to weather this storm. Families worked together to provide child care and help to their elders. With less income, trips abroad became a dream. Nevertheless, for Greeks, summer vacations are considered a birthright so in tough times many tap their family networks to head out to a cousin’s cottage by the sea. Greeks are strongly connected to their roots and enjoy spending holidays at traditional village homes, away from the city.
In fact, many Greeks began to look at their villages in a new way. They have learned that local agricultural products, which provide cheap, healthy, and delicious sustenance for Greeks at home, can also be marketed with success abroad. While Greece remains the world’s top olive oil consumer, they have fallen behind competing producers, Spain and Italy. Instead of packaging their oil in bulk, producers have begun to bottle and market their quality extra virgin olive oil abroad for the first time. This move has spurred new entrepreneurship in one of the oldest and largest agriculture markets of the country.
Starting Up
Greece has always shown strong entrepreneurship, but the country has remained mostly unproductive and associated with corruption. Although most ventures still follow the failed principles of the past, there are a few high-impact start-ups that have succeeded, and these have had an impact on tourism.
Mobile apps like TaxiBeat, Bug Sense, and Pinnatta and high-tech companies like Workable are setting a high bar. Meanwhile, the eco-minded furniture company Coco-Mat and successful cosmetics companies like Apivita and Korres continue to establish their worldwide presence, setting the bar for success. Agribusiness and tourism, Greece’s most promising sectors, continue to move forward with companies like Fage, Mastiha Shop, and Hotelbrain.
A Bright Light for Tourism?
Despite the vast political, social, and economic upheaval, Greeks remain optimistic by nature and remain hospitable hosts. No matter what challenges they face as a country, they’re a proud, warm-hearted, and outgoing people that continue to be as welcoming as ever. One-fifth of the population of Greece works in tourism, and more than 18 million tourists visit Greece annually. Greeks are moving forward with innovative ideas to showcase the country’s beautiful landscape and islands.
The Annual Spetses Mini-Marathon has gathered a considerable following since it started in 2010, and other islands have begun to offer sporting events, spurning new waves of island sport tourism. And in 2014, after years of unveiled—then failed—plans for a seaplane network between the islands, Hellenic Seaplanes plans for service to begin by early 2015. These flights will not only bring tourists to the islands but also connect communities. The company hopes to provide service to more than 100 islands, many of which have no airport.
Back in the capital, Greeks are going back to their roots to survive the downturn. In the center of Athens, restaurant, bar, and café owners are bringing new life to once-abandoned squares and streets in the commercial center, including Ayias Irinis Square. Steady as ever above the modern city built around it, the Acropolis continues to welcome tourists daily as it undergoes a seemingly endless renovation plan. Nearby, the Acropolis Museum elegantly showcases its ancient wares.
By night, there is no sign of crisis, as the country’s nightlife remains as vibrant as ever. Traditional and often pricey Greek music clubs called bouzoukia pump with live music that inspires flower throwing and tabletop dancing into the early morning hours. For the first time, Greek pop music bands are headlining on its raised stages to attract a wider audience. In the summer, outdoor clubs that hug the coastline of the Athens Riviera open up for the season with refurbished, glamorous seaside balconies welcoming posh Greek clubbers who still prefer to smoke and stare, rather than dance.
And while some businesses struggle, new hotels and business open all over Greece, including on the islands.
WHAT’S WHERE
Athens. Contemporary Athens has a sleek subway, a brand new culture center (financed by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation) that comes complete with much needed outdoor green space, a thriving art scene, and a happening nightlife. But for 5 million Athenians, it’s still the tried-and-true pleasures that put the spin on urban life here: the endless parade of cafés, the charming Plaka district, and, most of all, the glorious remnants of one of the greatest civilizations the West ever produced, such as the Acropolis, the Agora, and the Theater of Herodes Atticus.
The Saronic Gulf Islands. When Athenians want a break, they often make a quick crossing to the idyllic islands of the Saronic gulf. You’re well advised to follow suit. The most popular of these destinations are Aegina, Hydra, and Spetses. Aegina is noteworthy for its medieval Palaiachora (Old Town), its magnificent Temple of Aphaia, and its annual crop of pistachios, which are said to be the best in Greece. Hydra offers stone houses above a gorgeously festive harbor; the complete lack of cars provides for maximum relaxation. Spetses has a time-burnished town with some hidden treasures.
The Sporades. The northern Sporades deliver quintessential Greek-island pleasures: villages spilling down hillsides like giant sugar cubes, Byzantine monasteries, and ageless paths, where the tinkle of goat bells may be the only sound for miles. Weekenders savor Skiathos, but Skopelos has great beaches, and Skyros is washed by some of the clearest waters in Greece.
Corfu. Temperate, multihued Corfu—of turquoise waters lapping rocky coves, shimmering silver olive leaves, ocher and pink buildings, and scarlet jacaranda spread over cottages—could have inspired impressionism. The island has a history equally as colorful, reflecting the commingling of Venetians, French, and British. First stop, of course, is Corfu Town—looking for all the world like a stage set for a Verdi opera.
The Cyclades. The ultimate Mediterranean archipelago, the Cyclades easily conjure up the magical words “Greek islands.” Santorini, with its ravishing caldera, is the most picturesque; Mykonos, with its sexy jet-set lifestyle, takes the prize for hedonism. Mountainous Folegandros, verdant Naxos, idyllic Sifnos, church-studded Tinos, and Brad Pitt–discovered Antiparos have their own distinct charms, and all center on ancient Delos, birthplace of Apollo.
Crete. Crete is Greece’s southernmost and largest island, and the claims to superlatives don’t stop there. Here, too, are some of Greece’s tallest mountains, its deepest gorge, many of its best beaches, and a wealth of Venetian and Byzantine wonders. Treasure of treasures is the Palace of Knossos—the high point of Minoan civilization. If these pleasures don’t cast a spell, the island’s remote seaside hamlets and quiet mountain villages will.
Rhodes and the Dodecanese. Wrapped enticingly around the shores of Turkey, the Dodecanese (“Twelve Islands”) have attracted some notable visitors. St. John the Divine received his Revelation on Patmos, Hippocrates established a healing center on Kos, and the Crusader Knights of St. John lavished their wealth on palaces in Rhodes, still famed for its glitzy resorts.
Northern Aegean Islands. Flung like puzzle pieces into the Aegean, each of these green and gold islands is distinct: Chios retains an eerie beauty amid its fortified villages and Byzantine monasteries; Lesvos is a getaway favored by artists and writers, and has happily lent a helping hand to high numbers of war-torn Middle East refugees; and lush, mountainous Samos whispers of the classical wonders of antiquity.
NEED TO KNOW
AT A GLANCE
Capital: Athens
Population: 10,815,197
Currency: Euro
Money: ATMs are common, but some smaller places don’t take credit cards
Language: Greek
Country Code: 30
Emergencies: 166
Driving: On the right
Electricity: 200v/50 cycles; electrical plugs have two round prongs
Time: Six hours ahead of New York
Documents: Up to 90 days with valid passport; Schengen rules apply
Mobile Phones: GSM (900 and 1800 bands)
Major Mobile Companies: Cosmote, Vodafone, Wind
WEBSITES
Greece: 
www.visitgreece.gr
Greek Ministry of Culture: www.culture.gr
GETTING AROUND
Air Travel: Most flights are to Athens (or Thessaloniki). Crete, Mykonos, Corfu, Zante, Cephallonia, Paros, Naxos, and Santorini also have international airports.
Bus Travel: There is an extensive network of inexpensive, KTEL buses that are fairly modern and depart from Athens for major sites such as Sounion, Delphi, and Olympia.
Car Travel: If you want to explore at your own pace on the mainland or islands, a car is a good idea.
Train Travel: Except for the Athens metro, trains in Greece are limited and dated.
PLAN YOUR BUDGET
WAYS TO SAVE
Share a platter of mezedes. Typical small plates with a bit of wine make a great meal.
Visit the local farmers’ market. Weekly farmers’ markets sell fresh ingredients for a home-cooked Greek meal.
Take advantage of air ticket offers. Even with the merger of Aegean and Olympic Air, there are still frequent sales on domestic flights.
Unification of Archaeological Sites ticket. The combined ticket (€30) includes five days of access to major sights in Athens.
PLAN YOUR TIME
| Hassle Factor | Medium. Flights to Athens are frequent, but most require a change in Europe; in the summer, cheaper charter flights go directly to the islands. |
| 3 days | Visit Athens and venture out to watch the sun set over the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, or you can do a short island escape. |
| 1 week | Combine a short trip to Athens with an island stay and perhaps an overnight stay at Delphi. |
| 2 weeks | You can visit two or three islands of your choice before heading back to Athens to visit the Acropolis and its museum. |
WHEN TO GO
High Season: June through August is the most expensive and popular time to visit Greece. Athens is fairly empty in August, except for the mobs of tourists.
Low Season: Most island hotels are closed in the low season, from mid-October to the middle of April, although this is the perfect time to discover the mountainous regions of the mainland, including the ski resorts not too far from Delphi. Athens is cold and humid.
Value Season: May, September, and October offer the best combination of mild Mediterranean weather and value. The Aegean may still be too cold for swimming in May, but things get better in early June, when you are still beating the crowds. Some island hotels are open until the start of November; others close in early October. An Athenian city break is a good, affordable option all year round.
BIG EVENTS
April/May: Greek Easter is a movable feast: a traditional highlight is lamb roasting on the spit.
May to October: The Athens and Epidavros Festival invites global artists to perform in magnificent surroundings www.greekfestival.gr.
August: The Assumption of Mary on August 15 marks the height of the summer vacation for Greeks.
November: Run in what the Greek’s call the “authentic” Athens Marathon www.athensauthenticmarathon.gr.
READ THIS
Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens, Sofka Zinovieff. The author adapts to life in Athens.
Sunlight in the Wine, Robert Leigh. An Englishman moves to the island of Andros for a simpler life.
The Island, Victoria Hislop. Cretan family saga set on the leprosy colony of Spinalonga.
WATCH THIS
Mamma Mia! A feel-good Abba musical.
Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. A WWII Italian officer falls in love on Cephallonia.
Zorba the Greek. Anthony Quinn brings the Greek spirit to life.
EAT THIS
Feta cheese: crumbly aged sheep or goat cheese
Greek salad: country salad with feta
Moussaka: layered eggplant, potato, ground meat, and béchamel
Fava: a traditional dip made of pureed yellow split peas
Pita me gyro: spit-roasted meat, in pita with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki
Lamb kleftiko: slow-roasted leg of lamb
GREECE’S BEST BEACHES
With some 9,000 miles of exposed shoreline, Greece’s beaches are to Europeans what Florida’s are to Americans. But choosing Greece’s best is a task of almost Herculean proportions. For us xènos (foreigners), Greek beaches may be simply sandy playgrounds that live up to their promise of sun, sand, and azure seas. But for the Greeks, the beach becomes the center of Greek social life from May through October, when seas are warm and sunshine can be taken for granted.
Best for Families
Ayia Marina, Aegina, Saronic Gulf Islands. Shallow waters, paddleboat rentals, and other amenities make this beach outside Aegina Town especially popular with Athenian families.
Elafonisi, Crete. Turquoise waters, pure-white sandbars, with a sea shallow enough to create a beautiful wading pool for youngsters. Young explorers love to wade across the “bathtub” to Elafonisi islet.
Santa Maria, Paros, Cyclades. Windsurfers love the winds here, and parents will welcome the warm, shallow waters and those beautiful dunes that are irresistible to the sandbox set.
Best for Partiers
Aegina Town, Saronic Gulf Islands. A party scene prevails at a parade of bars on the coast just outside town, where a spectacular sunset kicks off a night of cocktails and notched-up music.
Pounta Beach, Paros, Cyclades. Dancing on the sand and tabletops is just part of the scene at this beach, which is also a major windsurfing destination.
Skiathos Town, Skiathos, Sporades. For those who prefer drinking and dancing next to the sea, come evening the lively harbor front becomes a big party, one long row of hopping clubs and bars.
Super Paradise Beach and Paradise Beach, Mykonos, Cyclades. Greece’s celebrated party island lives up to its reputation at a string of bars that line these soft sands, where an international crowd lingers until dawn.
Best Off the Beaten Path
Ayios Georgios, Rhodes, Dodecanese. Shaded with heavenly scented cedars, this pristine strand is the loveliest beach on Rhodes and well worth the harrowing, four-wheel drive down a cypress-lined track.
Moni Beach, Moni, Saronic Gulf Islands. Five kilometers (3 miles) off the coast of Aegina, this little island is now a nature preserve, where you can swim off a little sandy beach in the marvelously green waters while you wait for your boatman to return.
Psili Amos, Patmos, Dodecanese. A caïque ride or half-hour hike are the ways to reach the island’s most beautiful stretch of sand.
Red Beach, Matala, Crete. A beautiful hike from Matala allows you to plunge into the surf at this delightfully isolated strand. Nearby caves have sheltered everyone from prehistoric nomads to hippies.
Best for History Buffs
Kommos Beach, Matala, Crete. This mile-plus-long strand of golden sand is justifiably popular with sunbathers, who would be humbled to know ancient Minoans once inhabited this now-being-excavated spot.
Olous, Elounda Peninsula, Crete. Strap on a snorkel mask, dive into the crystal-clear waters, and regard the Roman settlement on the sandy seafloor—finds from this seafloor are on view at the nearby archaeological museum in Ayios Nikolaos.
Best for Water Sports
Chrissi Akti (Golden Beach), Paros, Cyclades. The long stretch of golden sand is Greece’s windsurfing capital, hosting the International Windsurfing World Cup every August.
Paleokastritsa, Corfu. This stretch of sand-rimmed coves and seaside grottoes rewards divers and snorkelers with crystal-clear waters. Korfu Diving and other outfitters provide all the necessary equipment for underwater fun.
Paradise Beach, Mykonos, Cyclades. Mykonos is considered to be the diving center of the Aegean, and Mykonos Diving Center is the place for serious instruction and rewarding dives.
Best for Natural Beauty
Kolimbithres, Paros, Cyclades. Smooth boulders whimsically shaped by the wind create a string of coves backed by golden sands. The calm, warm waters are ideal for swimming.
Lemonakia, Kokkari, Samos. Beauty and the Beach describes this winner, with its perfect half-moon crescent magnificently framed by rocky promontories green with pine trees.
Mavra Volia, Chios, Northern Aegean Islands. A “wine-dark sea” washes the black volcanic shores of a cove nestled between sheltering cliffs—little wonder the hauntingly appealing place is aptly called “Black Pebbles.”
Milia Beach, Skopelos, Sporades. With brilliant white sands and clear turquoise waters, this gorgeous beach is ensconced by vibrant green pine trees, making for a breathtaking sight.
Myrtidiotissa, Corfu. Sheer cliffs shelter soft sands backed by olive groves; Lawrence Durrell was not exaggerating when, in Prospero’s Cell, he described this spot as “perhaps the loveliest beach in the world.”
Plaka, Naxos, Cyclades. The most beautiful beach of all on an island of beautiful beaches is backed by sand dunes and bamboo groves, an exotic setting enhanced by a predictably spectacular sunset almost every evening.
Vai, Crete. A grove of palm trees provides an MGM-worthy backdrop to a beach that even the ancients raved about.
CRUISING IN GREECE
Travelers have been sailing Greek waters ever since 3,500 BC. The good news is that today’s visitor will have a much, much easier time of it than Odysseus, the world’s first tourist and hero of Homer’s Odyssey. Back in his day, exploring the Greek islands—1,425 geological jewels thickly scattered over the Aegean sea like stepping-stones between East and West—was a fairly daunting assignment. Zeus would often set the schedule (during the idyllic days in midwinter the master of Mt. Olympus forbade the winds to blow during the mating season of the halcyon or kingfisher); waterlogged wooden craft could be tossed about in summer, when the meltemi, the north wind, would be a regular visitor to these waters; and pine-prow triremes often embarked with a scramble of 170 oarsmen, not all of them pulling in the right direction.
Itineraries
Most itineraries that focus on Greece last 7 to 10 days. They may be round-trip cruises that begin and end in Piraeus, or they may begin in Venice (usually ending in Piraeus) or Piraeus (usually ending in Istanbul). Some cruises concentrate on covering an area that includes the Greek islands, Turkish coast, Cyprus, Israel, and Egypt, while others reach from Gibraltar to the Ionian isles, the western Peloponnese, and Athens.
For an overview of Greece’s top sights, choose an itinerary that includes port calls in Piraeus for a shore excursion to the Acropolis and other sights in Athens; Mykonos, a sparkling Cycladic isle with a warren of whitewashed passages, followed by neighboring Delos, with its Pompeii-like ruins; Santorini, a stunning harbor that’s actually a partially submerged volcano; Rhodes, where the Knights of St. John built their first walled city before being forced to retreat to Malta; and Heraklion, Crete, where you’ll be whisked through a medieval harbor to the reconstructed Bronze Age palace at Knossos. Port calls at Katakolon and Itea mean excursions to Olympia and the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. Some cruises call at Epidavros and Nafplion, offering an opportunity for visits to the ancient theater and the citadel of Mycenae, or at Monemvasia or Patmos, the island where St. John wrote the Book of Revelation.
Some lines allow you to spend extra time (even stay overnight) in Mykonos to experience the party scene, or Santorini, so that you can see the island after the crush of cruise-ship tourists leave for the day.
When to Go
When to go is as important as where to go. The Greek cruising season is lengthy, starting in March and ending in November. In July or August, the islands are crowded with Greek and foreign vacationers, so expect sights, beaches, and shops to be crowded. High temperatures could also limit time spent on deck. May, June, September, and October are the best months—warm enough for sunbathing and swimming, yet not so uncomfortably hot as to make you regret the trek up Lindos. Cruising in the low seasons provides plenty of advantages besides discounted fares. Availability of ships and particular cabins is greater in the low and shoulder seasons, and the ports are almost completely free of tourists.
Major Ports
The cruise ports of Greece vary in size and popularity, and some require passengers on larger ships to take a smaller tender to go ashore. In some ports, the main sights may be an hour or more away by car or bus, so plan your day appropriately. At virtually every port listed a beach stop can be found nearby if you prefer to relax by the sea instead of exploring a village or archaeological site.
Ayios Nikolaos, Crete. A charming and animated port town, Ayios Nikolaos is a dramatic composition of bare mountains, islets, and deep blue sea. Its hilly streets offer fantastic views over Mirabello bay, and the “bottomless” lake Voulismeni remains its core. There aren’t any significant beaches in the town but a few nice bays. Its streets are lined with simple tavernas, and its architecture reflects Venetian and Byzantine influences.
Chania, Crete. This elegant city of eucalyptus-lined avenues features miles of waterfront promenades and shady, cobbled alleyways lined with Venetian and Ottoman homes. There’s a lighthouse; the waterfront Firka Fortress, once a Turkish prison, is now a maritime museum. A converted Turkish mosque now hosts art exhibitions. You can tour several monasteries on Agia Triada, an area that extends into the sea from the east side of Chania. A short walk west of the harbor takes you to Chania’s main beach. Buses and tours depart for Samaria, known for its deep, breathtaking gorge that cuts through Crete’s mountains.
Corfu. Stroll through the narrow, winding streets and steep stairways that make up the Campiello, the traffic-free medieval area. Head to the center of town, known as the Spianada, where seven- and eight-story Venetian and English Georgian houses line the way. Wander through the maze inside the New Fort, which was built by the Venetians. There’s also the 15th-century Old Fort. Other highlights include the Church of St. George, St. Spyridon Cathedral, and Antivouniotissa church, which dates back to the 15th century. The archaeological museum houses collections from Kanoni, the site of Corfu’s ancient capital.
Delos. During a stop in Mykonos, a short boat ride takes you to the tiny uninhabited island of Delos, a well-preserved archaeological site that was once a holy sanctuary for a thousand years, the fabled birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Walk through formerly luxurious villas including the House of Cleopatra and the House of Dionysus to see 2,500-year-old mosaic floors and remnants of magnificent marble sculptures. Other highlights include the Sacred Way, the Temple of Apollo, and the marbled and imposing Avenue of Lions. Smaller cruise ships can anchor nearby and tender their passengers ashore.
Gythion. This small port located right on the southernmost peninsula in the Peloponnese is in a unique geographical and cultural area called the Mani. Gythion is known for its seaside cafés, restaurants, and beaches. The Diros caves, accessible by underground boat tours, are located 37 km (22 miles) southwest. Tours also head out to other Peloponnese towns popular for their beauty and history including Mystras, Sparta, and Monemvasia.
Heraklion, Crete. This port gives you access to visit the nearby Palace of Knossos, the Minoan king’s residence as well as the religious center for the whole region. Right in the center of the Heraklion, near the main Platia Eleftherias, you can find the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, which displays artifacts from Minoan culture discovered during the excavations of Knossos. The streets of the capital are lined with Venetian buildings, promenades, and outdoor cafés. In the port’s inner harbor you’ll find Koules, the massive fortress.
Katakolon. This small port is known as “the door to Olympia” since it is the closest port to the Greek city known for the most important sanctuaries of ancient Greece, the birthplace of the ancient Olympic Games. The ancient site includes the remains of the original 20,000-spectator stadium, and its archaeological museum houses prehistoric, archaic, and classical statues from ancient times. If you don’t want to make the trip to Olympia, then Katakolon is an ideal place for a leisurely Greek lunch.
Kos. Ships dock in Kos Town, putting you within walking distance to the main sights of the birthplace of Hippocrates, father of modern medicine. You can stop by the archaeological museum located in the central Eleftherios Square and explore the impressive 15th-century Castle of Neratzia (Knight’s castle). You may also want to see Hippocrates’s Tree, where the ancient Greek physician lectured his students in its shade. In wooded foothills 3½ km (2 miles) west of Kos Town you can discover the ruins of the ancient Greek hospital of Asklepieion.
Monemvasia. Cruise ships tender you close to this unique medieval island town, which is actually a natural rock fortress that has been inhabited since AD 583. A narrow road connects you to the town, and from that point on you must travel by foot or donkey. Once inside, explore the nooks, grottoes, tiny alleys, and homes carved into the rock. In Lower Town you’ll find Elkomenos Square, where the medieval Elkomenos Christos church and a small museum stand. Follow the remains of the medieval fortress to Upper Town to stand at the top of the rock. There you’ll bask in memorable sea views right where Agia Sophia church is located.
Mykonos. Cruise ships drop anchor at Tourlos, where a small boat shuttles you to the island’s main town called Mykonos Town, a well-preserved whitewashed Cycladic village comprised of a maze of narrow, small, and winding streets lined with shops, restaurants, bars, and cafés. Other ships dock in the modern cruise port and shuttle passengers into Mykonos Town by bus. Once in town, you’ll be within walking distance of several highlights, including one of the most photographed churches in the world, Panagia Paraportiani, as well as the town’s picturesque waterfront district called Little Venice. At night, Mykonos Town comes alive as a cosmopolitan nightlife and dining destination.
Mytilini, Lesvos. Mytilini, or Lesvos, is Greece’s third-largest island known as the birthplace of ancient Greek poet Sappho. It’s also known for its landscapes that produce fine olive oil and ouzo. Once your ship docks in harbor you’ll be right near the waterfront mansions and bustling streets of Mytilini, which are lined with shops, taverns, and good ouzeries serving up local ouzo. A 15-minute walk up a pine-clad hill stands one of the largest castles in the Mediterranean, the Fortress of Mytilini. The Archaeological Museum of Mytilene, housed in a 1912 neoclassical mansion, is located behind the ferry dock.
Nafplion. Ships anchor off the coast of Nafplion and shuttle you to the main village, where you’ll pass the picturesque Bourtzi islet, where a tower fortress seems to stand in the center of the sea. The top attraction of Nafplion is the Palamidi Fortress built by the Venetians in 1711. Getting to it requires a climb up 899 stairs to the entrance, where you’ll have fantastic views of the region. The village itself is a picturesque maze of Venetian and Byzantine architecture lined with colorful bougainvillea, sidewalk cafés, tavernas, and shops. In the center of it all is Syntagma Square where you’ll find a beautiful 18th-century Venetian arsenal and the archaeological museum.
Patmos. Smaller ships can dock in pretty, mountainous Patmos. At the port of Skala you can venture on a scenic 20-minute hike up to Kastelli hill to the town’s 6th- to 4th-century BC stone remains. A quick taxi or bus ride 4 km (2½ miles) away takes you to neighboring Patmos Town, where you’ll discover the religious significance of the island; it was where St. John the Divine was once exiled and where he wrote the Book of Revelation. Traditional whitewashed homes surround the bottom of the exterior walls of the Monastery of St. John the Divine, dating back to 1088. It’s also where the Sacred Grotto is found, the sacred place where St. John received his visions that he recorded in the Book of Revelation.
Piraeus. The port of Piraeus is located 11 km (7 miles) southwest of Central Athens. You can easily catch the metro or a taxi to reach the worthy sites of the city, including the Acropolis, the ancient core of the modern capital. On its southwest slope you’ll see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an ancient and impressive stone theater. Within the perimeter you’ll find yourself in the heart of Old Athens and can easily stroll through Plaka and visit the bazaars of Monastiraki. The birthplace of democracy called the ancient Agora is at the northern edge of the Plaka. In the city, you can browse the impressive collections at the Acropolis Museum, the Benaki Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum. In central Syntagma Square you’ll find parliament, formerly King Otto’s royal palace, and have the opportunity to watch the Changing of the Evzone Guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Rhodes. Ships dock at the cruise port east of St. Catherine’s Gate, bringing you close to the island’s historical center. For two centuries Rhodes Town was ruled by the Knights of St. John. The monuments of that era are the island’s highlights, including its 4-km (2½-mile) fortress walls; Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes; and the Mosque of Süleyman, dedicated to a Turkish sultan, that dates back to the 1522. You’ll also discover where the ancient wonder called the Colossus once towered above the harbor in 280 BC. A 48-km (30-mile) trip away from Rhodes Town leads to the whitewashed medieval village of Lindos known for its grand hilltop acropolis.
Santorini. Cruise ships anchor near the cliffs of Fira, offering memorable views of the whitewashed mountaintop villages of Santorini. Once a tender shuttles you to the Old Port, you’ll find a picturesque, romantic village with whitewashed homes and churches topped with bright blue roofs. The Museum of Prehistoric Fira gives insight into the island’s prehistoric and archaeological history. If you want to venture 11 km (7 miles) farther into the island you’ll find yourself taking in the view in Ia, another beautiful village that’s built on a steep slope of the island’s impressive cliffs. The remains of Akrotiri, destroyed millennia ago by a massive volcanic eruption, are on the island’s southeastern tip.
ISLAND-HOPPING: CYCLADES TO CRETE
There is no bad itinerary for the Greek islands. Whether you choose the Sporades, the Dodecanese, or any of those other getaways floating in the Aegean, the leading isles in Greece differ remarkably, and they are all beautiful. But the needle flies off the beauty-measuring gauge when it comes to the Cyclades. It might be possible to “see” any of these famous islands in a day: the “must-see” sights—monasteries or ancient temples—are often few. Still, it is best to take a slower pace and enjoy a sumptuous, idyllic 14-day tour. Planning the details of this trip depends on your sense of inclusiveness, your restlessness, your energy, and your ability to accommodate changing boat schedules. Just be warned: the danger of sailing through the Cyclades is that you will never want to leave them. From these suggested landfalls, some of the most justly famous, you can set off to find other idyllic retreats on your own.
2 Days: Mykonos
Jewel of the Cyclades, this island manages to retain its seductive charm. Spend the first day and evening enjoying appealing Mykonos Town, where a maze of beautiful streets is lined with shops, bars, restaurants, and discos; spend time on one of the splendid beaches; and, if you want to indulge in some hedonism, partake of the wild nightlife. The next morning take the local boat to nearby Delos for one of the great classical sites in the Aegean. Mykonos is one of the main transport hubs of the Greek islands, with many ferries, boats, and planes connecting to Athens and its port of Piraeus. Mykonos in Chapter 6.
2 Days: Naxos
Sail south to Naxos—easily done in summer, harder in other seasons. Plan on arriving from Mykonos in the late afternoon or evening, and begin with a pre-dinner stroll around Naxos Town, visiting the Portara (an ancient landmark), the castle, and other sights in the old quarter. The next morning, visit the Archaeological Museum; then drive through the island’s mountainous center for spectacular views. Along the way, visit such sights as the Panayia Drosiani, a church near Moni noted for 7th-century frescoes; the marble-paved village of Apeiranthos; and the Temple of Demeter. If you have time, stop for a swim at one of the beaches facing Paros, say Mikri Vigla. Naxos in Chapter 6.
3 Days: Paros
Go west, young man, to Paros, where the large spaces provide peace and quiet. Paros Town has delights profane—buzzing bars—and sacred, such as the legendary Hundred Doors Church. But the highlight will be a meal in the impossibly pretty little fishing harbor of Naousa or, on a morning drive around the island, a visit to the lovely mountain village of Lefkes. Then spend an extra night of magic on the neighboring isle of Antiparos, where off-duty Hollywood celebs bliss out with all the white sands, pink bougainvillea, and blue seas. Paros in Chapter 6.
2 Days: Folegandros
This smaller isle is not only beautiful but, rarer in these parts, authentic. It boasts one of the most stunning Chora towns; deliberately downplayed touristic development; several good beaches; quiet evenings; traditional local food; and respectful visitors. The high point, literally and figuratively, is the siting of the main town—on a towering cliff over the sea, its perch almost rivals that of Santorini. Folegandros in Chapter 6.
3 Days: Santorini
Take a ferry from Folegandros south to the spectacle of all spectacles. Yes, in summer the crowds will remind you of the running of the bulls in Pamplona but even they won’t stop you from gasping at the vistas, the seaside cliffs, and stunning Cycladic cubist architecture. Once you’ve settled in, have a sunset drink on a terrace overlooking the volcanic caldera. You can also find many view-providing watering holes in Fira, the capital, or Ia, Greece’s most-photographed village. The next day, visit the Museum of Prehistoric Thera; then enjoy a third day just swimming one of the black-sand beaches at Kamari or Perissa. Santorini in Chapter 6.
2 Days: Crete
Despite the attractions of sea and mountains, it is still the mystery surrounding Europe’s first civilization and empire that draws many travelers to Crete. Like them, you can discover stunning testimony to the island’s mysterious Minoan civilization, particularly at the legendary Palace of Knossos. Along these shores are blissful beaches as well as the enchanting Venetian-Turkish city of Hania. From Heraklion, Crete’s main port, there are frequent flights and ferries back to Piraeus, Athens, and reality. Crete in Chapter 7.
High-speed catamarans have halved travel time between Piraeus and Santorini. If you have more time, you can take a slower car ferry all the way to Crete and work your way back to Athens on quicker, high-speed ferries.
In summer, when ferries and boats run frequently, you should have little trouble moving from any of these islands to another, but be sure to make advance reservations. During the high season, ferries sell out.
All islands are served by air if you would prefer flying, but not all of these islands have airports.
ON THE CALENDAR
Since the Greek Orthodox Church plays such a large role in the heritage of the country, many celebrations throughout the year revolve around religious holidays and saint days. But Greeks also love any good excuse to dance and feast, and they love to celebrate the arts, including film, dance, and drama. During warmer seasons, Greece’s idyllic seaside, countryside, and island backdrops add to the energy and purpose of every event organized.
Epiphany, January 6. To commemorate the day of Christ’s baptism, a sizable gathering in Athens takes place at the port of Piraeus (and every other port nearby). A priest throws a large crucifix into the water, and young men brave the cold to recover it. The finder is awarded with a blessing.
Apokries. Thousands take to the streets of Greece, prancing and dancing in costume, drinking, and just being merry during the country’s three-week pre-Lenten Carnival season. The islands of Skyros and Crete attract some of the largest crowds. carnival-in-rethymnon-crete-greece.com.
Greek Independence Day, March 25. A military parade that commemorates the start of the War of Greek Independence of 1821 is held with pomp and circumstance. It marches straight through the heart of Athens in Syntagma Square.
Feast of the Annunciation, March 25. While Greece celebrates its independence, the islands of Tinos and Hydra hold special religious festivities to honor the news that Mary would be the mother of Christ.
Holy Easter Week Celebrations, April or May. Throughout the country, church services and processions are scheduled during the most important holiday in Greece. On Easter midnight families gather at local churches, candles in hand. The rest of the day is dedicated to feasting on roasted lamb and other traditional food. On Holy Thursday, “The Last Supper” is reenacted at the Monastery of St. John the Divine on the island of Patmos.
Art Athina Festival. One of the longest-lasting contemporary art fairs in Europe takes place in Athens each May. International artists gather to collaborate and present their work to more than 30,000 visitors over a four-day period. www.art-athina.gr.
Athens and Epidavros Festival, June to October. A full schedule of classical Greek dramas, opera, orchestra, and dance performances fills venues across Athens, including the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus next to the Acropolis. Over the years a roster of famous actors including Helen Mirren, Ethan Hawke, and Kevin Spacey have graced the stage at the magnificent ancient Theatre of Epidauros in the Peloponnese. www.greekfestival.gr.
Medieval Rose Festival. The gorgeous medieval town of Rhodes is the perfect backdrop for well-rehearsed reenactments from Byzantine and medieval times. Musical and art events add to the program with the aim to educate and entertain. www.medievalfestival.gr.
Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin, August 15. On this national holiday, thousands of pilgrims crowd Tinos to ask for a special blessing or a miracle. In crowds, they crawl on their hands and knees to the cathedral of Panagia Evangelistria.
Sani Festival. With sections like “Jazz on the Hill” and “Greek Variations,” the fun music fest gathers significant artists from around the world for a jam-packed program of concerts in the Halkidiki peninsula of northern Greece. Performances take place at various venues, including Sani Hill, a small islet surrounded by the lapping waves of the Aegean. sanifestival.gr.
Renaissance Festival at Rethymnon. In a celebration of art, theater, and music, hundreds of artists from around the globe act, sing, and dance in venues throughout the most picturesque Cretan town in performances that begin in August and continue through September. Each performance aims to honor of the spirit of the Renaissance era. www.rfr.gr.
Aegina Pistachio Festival. Go dance, sing, and enjoy your share of delicious pistachio products as you learn about the Aegina’s appreciation for the nut that has helped their island thrive. www.aeginafistikifest.gr.
Dionysia Wine Festival. One of Naxos island’s key events, with music, theater, and art exhibitions, celebrates the island’s ties to the Ancient Greek God of Wine, Dionysus, during the first week of September.
Spetses Mini Marathon. The biggest island sporting event in Greece features running and swimming races and a children’s run. Social events are also open for those who want to feel the energetic vibe of the island during the action-packed weekend. Get a welcoming taste of the savory homemade pies baked and handed out by local women. spetsesmarathon.com.
Athens Marathon. Tens of thousands of runners head to Greece in early November to run the course based on the original marathon from Ancient Greek times. The 26.2-mile course begins in Marathon and finishes at the grand, marble Panathenaic Stadium in Athens. www.athensauthenticmarathon.gr.
November 17th. The widely observed anniversary commemorates the 1973 uprising by Athens Polytechnic University students, who were killed for protesting the Greek military junta. Metro stations close down, and protests typically take to the streets, making it a difficult day for travel and sightseeing.
Christmas. Athens gets festive, especially for kids. The National Gardens and Syntagma Square are transformed into a Christmas village, where activities are scheduled during school vacation. Additional city venues and public spaces hold events as well. www.cityofathens.gr.