Frommer’s Berlin day by day

Siegessäule. One of Berlin’s most visible icons, the Siegessäule (Victory Column) towers above the Grosser Stern traffic circle and is crowned by a golden statue, nicknamed “Goldene Else” by Berliners. You need to get up close to this monument to Prussian war victories to appreciate its ornate murals and mosaics depicting the battles of the 19th-century Franco-Prussian and Austro-Prussian wars. Feeling sprightly? Hike up to the platform for vistas across the treetops to central Berlin.

30 min. Go to Page. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.

Schloss Bellevue. Pass through the woodlands linking Grosser Stern to Schloss Bellevue. Stroll across the neatly clipped lawns to reach the three-winged facade of this beautiful baroque palace. Built in 1786 for Prince Ferdinand of Prussia, it has been the official residence of the German president since 1994. Supported by Corinthian columns, the gables are embellished with allegorical figures that represent agriculture, fishing, and hunting.

20 min. Go to Page.

Magnus-Hirschfeld-Ufer. On a sunny day the maple-and willow-fringed banks of the River Spree draw everyone from young couples to joggers and stroller-pushing parents. As tour boats glide past and landmarks such as the Bundeskanzleramt (

) and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (

) come into view, plant yourself on one of the benches and take a deep breath of the Berliner Luft (Berlin air).

45 min.

Zollpackhof. This riverside beer garden overlooking the Bundeskanzleramt is the perfect spot to relax with a cool drink under the chestnut trees. There’s also a small playground for kids. Go to Page. €.

Bundeskanzleramt. Berliners call their Federal Chancellery the Elefanten-Waschanlage (elephant washing machine) because the building is a white cube with enormous round windows. It houses the office of the German chancellor. Built in 2001 by Berlin architects Axel Schultes and Charlotte Frank, the postmodernist edifice is a striking addition to Berlin’s riverfront. Walk around to get a feel for its scale.

15 min. Willy-Brandt-Strasse 1. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Walking aside, one of the best ways to explore Berlin is from a Fahrrad (bicycle). American-owned Fat Tire Bike Tours ( 030-24-04-79-91; www.fattirebiketoursberlin.com) offers tours with native English-speaking guides that are suitable for all ages. The 5½ hour All-In-One City Bike Tour (45€ adults) is an enjoyable way to see the highlights of Berlin, taking in sights like the Siegessäule (Go to Page, ), Checkpoint Charlie (Go to Page, ), and Potsdamer Platz. Tours depart daily at 10am from the Fernsehturm on Alexanderplatz from March to October.

Haus der Kulturen der Welt. A gift from the U.S. government to Berlin in 1957, the cultural venue was nicknamed by irreverent Berliners “the pregnant oyster.” Cross the Spree to get close to its curving roof, dappled with sunlight from the reflection of the Spiegelteich (mirror pond).

15 min. Go to Page.

Berlin Philharmonie. German architect Hans Scharoun channeled his vision into revamping this corner of Berlin in the 1960s. The honeycombed facade and pointy peaks of his philharmonic hall look like an asymmetrical big top. Music fans admire it for its in-the-round concert stage and superb acoustics. One of the world’s great orchestras, the Berliner Philharmoniker, makes its home here.

15 min. Go to Page.

Kupferstichkabinett. This gallery creaks under the weight of its peerless graphic arts collection, which is the largest in Germany. Among its cache of prints, drawings, pastels, and oils are star pieces by Renaissance painter and engraver Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528), Dutch Golden Age master Rembrandt van Rijn (1606–69), and Florentine Renaissance artist Sandro Botticelli (ca.1444–1510), plus 20th-century masterpieces by Picasso and Warhol.

1 hr. Matthäikirchplatz. 030-266-42-42-01. Admission 3€ adults, 3€ concessions; Kulturforum combined ticket 12€ adults, 6€ concessions. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Kunstgewerbemuseum. A treasure-trove of decorative arts, this museum displays everything from Renaissance bronze and Meissen porcelain to delicate Venetian glassware and majolica (glazed earthenware). The diverse collection also encompasses taffeta ball gowns, Chinese ceramics, and hand-crafted glass. Look out for the Merseburger Spiegelkabinett, an 18th-century room carved from linden wood and adorned with gold, ivory, and mirrors.

45 min. Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 10. 030-266-42-43-01. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions; Kulturforum combined ticket 12€ adults, 6€ concessions. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Gemäldegalerie. For fans of the Old Masters, this is Berlin’s must-see picture gallery, but anyone with an interest in art will be captivated by works from the brushes of Peter Paul Rubens, Titian, Botticelli, Goya, Andrea Mantegna, and—best of all—Rembrandt van Rijn, whose masterpieces take up a whole room. You need time if you plan to explore all 72 rooms; or pick up a gallery map to pinpoint the highlights.

1 hr. Go to Page.

Neue Nationalgalerie. Bringing you back to the 20th century, the New National Gallery hosts a star-studded lineup of contemporary artists. Architect Mies van der Rohe’s 1968 glass-and-steel edifice provides the backdrop for recent European painting and sculpture. Cubist works by Pablo Picasso and surrealist pieces by Salvador Dali (1904–89) hang alongside Bauhaus creations by Paul Klee (1879–1940) and his friend, the painter Wassily Kandinsky (1866–1944). From 1919 to 1933, when it was shut down by the Nazis for being “un-German” and “communist-inspired”, the Bauhaus school was a galvanizing force in German art and architecture. The Nazi closure forced many Bauhaus artists to leave Germany.

1 hr. Potsdamer Strasse 50. 030-266-26-51. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Potsdamer Platz. After immersing yourself in art, head to futuristic Potsdamer Platz to see the new Berlin. It’s actually old Berlin reinvented, since Potsdamer Platz, before WWII and the Wall, was Berlin’s busiest intersection. The crystalline Sony Center looks otherworldly when it glows silver-blue and magenta by night. Equally impressive is the Daimler-Chrysler Quartier, which emerged from the rubble of the Berlin Wall and took shape under acclaimed Italian architect Renzo Piano. One of Europe’s largest urban development projects, Potsdamer Platz always has a buzz, and it’s great to visit in the evening when the skyscrapers glitter and Berliners meet for drinks and dinner.

30 min. Go to Page.

Hackescher Markt S-Bahn. Start your tour at Berlin’s loveliest S-Bahn station, built in 1882 at the height of the railway boom. This up-and-coming area is home to bars, restaurants, and boutiques under the arches. It’s hard to believe that, until the 19th century, there was nothing here but marshy wasteland.

15 min. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Hackesche Höfe. Edging slightly north, the eight interlinking courtyards of the Hackesche Höfe exude Art Nouveau flair. The prettiest is Hof I, with glazed mosaic walls in myriad shades. Browse the specialist shops for everything from cutting-edge couture to Art Deco bangles. Alternatively, relax on a cafe terrace with a shot of espresso and a spot of people-watching.

30 min. Go to Page.

Barcomi’s Deli. Great for lunch, this NYC-style deli is tucked away in a 19th-century courtyard. The bagels, sandwiches with homemade potato or rye bread, wraps, and antipasti are all delicious. Try a freshly roasted coffee with a slice of pecan pie for dessert. Sophie-Gips-Höfe 2, Bergmannstrasse 1. 030-28-59-83-63. €.

Marx-Engels-Forum. Looping back toward Alexanderplatz brings you through this tree-fringed square, where statues of a seated Karl Marx and standing Friedrich Engels form the centerpiece. The larger-than-life fathers of socialism today draw camera-toting tourists rather than acolytes of their 1848 Communist Manifesto.

20 min. Go to Page, .

Neptunbrunnen. Approaching the Fernsehturm, your gaze is drawn to the Neptunbrunnen (Neptune Fountain), where the water nymphs at Neptune’s feet personify Germany’s main rivers: The Elbe, Rhine, and Oder. When the sun’s out, kids love to splash in the shallow water.

15 min. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Rotes Rathaus. Just across the way is Berlin’s town hall, built in the 1860s with an Italian Renaissance twist. A filigree gate, stained-glass windows, and columns guide your eye to the central 74m (242 ft.) tower. Its architectural antithesis, the Fernsehturm, pops up right behind. Time permitting, return at dusk when the bricks turn a deep shade of terracotta.

15 min. Rathausstrasse 15. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Fernsehturm. Berlin’s so-called Telespargel (“TV asparagus”), on Alexanderplatz, is impossible to ignore. If its steel sphere glinting in the sunshine doesn’t grab your attention, its iconic glow after dark surely will. But the giant relic of the GDR is best appreciated with a speedy ascent to its 200m (656 ft.) viewing platform, the highest viewpoint in Berlin.

45 min. Go to Page.

Alexanderplatz & the World Clock. Alfred Döblin penned a crime novel about it, the GDR government turned it into a showcase for its trademark tower blocks, and Berliners affectionately dubbed it Alex. Just don’t expect a beautiful square: Prefab 1960s monoliths are a throwback to when Alexanderplatz was the epicenter of East Berlin. It does, though, have a certain urban charm with its rattling trams and eternal buzz. A popular gathering place is the revolving World Clock, crowned by a model of the solar system that tells the time in 24 time zones.

15 min. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Nikolaiviertel. Leave the commotion behind and slip into a more leisurely pace in the Nikolaiviertel, a 1979 recreation of Berlin’s medieval birthplace. Though it can feel a bit fake and touristy at times, the cobbled streets are an escape from the big-city buzz. One of the few original buildings still standing is the twin-spired Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest church dating to 1230 (Go to Page,

). On the banks of the River Spree, the 19th-century Kurfürstenhaus (Elector’s House), a step-gabled townhouse in German neo-Renaissance style, leads through to a tranquil courtyard. The dusky pink Knoblauchhaus (Garlic House) nearby is Berlin’s best-preserved 18th-century patrician house. Also worth a peek is the Ephraim-Palais, a grand rococo townhouse built by Friedrich Wilhelm Diterichs for the affluent merchant Veitel Heine Ephraim in 1765. With its slender pillars and gilded filigree balconies, locals used to call this the schönste Ecke Berlins (Berlin’s most beautiful corner).

1½ hr. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Franziskaner-Klosterkirche. A short amble east of Nikolaiviertel brings you to the redbrick remains of this eerie Franciscan monastery church (1250). The three-winged basilica became a grammar school in 1574 during the Protestant Reformation, later spawning such talent as architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781–1841) and Germany’s first chancellor, Otto von Bismarck (1815–98). Silence always reigns at this Gothic edifice, which was heavily bombed in World War II and is today little more than a shell with a blasted roof and shattered walls. Step inside to admire the Fernsehturm through the arches, or glimpse the sculpture of Jesus removing his crown of thorns near the entrance.

20 min. Klosterstrasse 73a. 030-636-12-13. May–Nov Tues–Sun noon–6pm. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse.

Alte Stadtmauer. If you thought Berlin’s only wall was the one that came down in 1989, you might be surprised to discover what remains of the medieval city walls tucked down this quiet street. It’s not much to look at, but alas this is all that remains of ramparts that completely ringed Berlin in the 14th century.

10 min. Littenstrasse. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse.

Zur Letzten Instanz. This wayside inn of yore has served up hearty staples since 1621. Rest weary feet by the tiled oven that once warmed Napoleon, and tuck into schnitzel or pork knuckles. Go to Page. €€€.

Ribbeckhaus. It’s worth starting slightly south of Museum Island to find the gabled Ribbeckhaus, one of Berlin’s best-preserved late-Renaissance edifices dating back to 1624. The ornamental facade recalls its grand past when it was home to the noble privy councilor Hans Georg von Ribbeck and his wife Katharina von Brösicke.

15 min. Breite Strasse 35. U-Bahn: Märkisches Museum.

Schlossbrücke. With its trio of arches and dreamy river views, Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s early-19th-century bridge linking Unter den Linden to Schlossplatz is a walkable work of art. Cross it to glimpse mythological Greek goddesses Athena and Nike sculpted from white marble and perched on pedestals. Morning and dusk are the best time to photograph the bridge with the Berliner Dom in the background.

10 min. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Lustgarten. Sweeping up to the Berliner Dom and Altes Museum, this manicured park on the banks of the Spree is a fine spot for lounging. Framed by lime trees, with a central fountain, the Lustgarten was the pleasure garden of the Hohenzollern royals in the 16th century.

15 min. Schlossplatz. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Berliner Dom. After a leisurely start, you’re probably still fizzing with energy. You’ll certainly need some puff to climb the 267 steps to the top of the dome of Berlin’s neo-baroque cathedral, built between 1895 and 1905. High up beside the angels, the vistas reward your efforts, reaching from the Rotes Rathaus to the Reichstag and beyond. The exit leads through the crypt, where ornate sarcophagi include that of King Frederick III (1415–93), the last emperor to be crowned in Rome by a pope, in 1452.

45 min. Go to Page.

Altes Museum. Designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel and built between 1823 and 1830, this museum is visually striking. Its fluted Ionic columns draw inspiration from the architecture of Ancient Athens and its central rotunda from the Pantheon in Rome. Inside, the vast repository of classical antiquities includes Greek sculptures, jewelry and silverware, and a world-renowned collection of Etruscan and Roman art. The upper floor showcases treasures from late-Hellenistic cremation urns and sarcophagi to mosaics, mummy portraits, and other treasures. For discounts on museums, see p. 173.

1 hr. Am Lustgarten. 030-20-90-55-77. Admission 10€ adults, 5€ concessions, free for children under 18. Daily 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Alte Nationalgalerie. Make a date with the 18th- to early-20th-century masters at the Old National Gallery. The backdrop is as magnificent as the works on display, with mosaic floors, frescoed ceilings, and stucco flourishes. A spin through the permanent collection on the 1st floor takes in brooding realist works by German painter Adolph Menzel (1815–1905). Head up to the 2nd floor to admire French Impressionist paintings from the likes of Monet (1840–1926), Renoir (1841–1919), and Degas (1834–1917), alongside an outstanding collection of works by German-Jewish artist Max Liebermann (1847–1935).

1 hr. Bodestrasse. 030-20-90-55-77. Admission 10€ adults, 5€ concessions, free for children under 18. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

From April to October, BWTS ( 030-65-88-02-03) operate water taxis for a 1-hour chug along the River Spree, past the Pergamon Museum, Bode Museum, and Siegessäule. The nearest embarkation point to Museum Island is Domaquarée on Karl-Liebknecht-Brücke, opposite the Berliner Dom. Tours costs 10€ adults, 5€ for children under 12; the first is at 10:15am and the last at 6:15pm (5:15pm Oct-Apr). For more details, see www.berliner-wassertaxi.de.

Neues Museum. The Neues Museum reopened in 2009 with a critically acclaimed makeover by architect David Chipperfield that utilizes portions of Friedrich August Stüler’s original mid-19th-century, neoclassical design. The museum houses a glorious Egyptian collection, which includes papyruses, mummy masks, hieroglyphics, and statuary. Make a beeline for room 210, where the entrancing and enigmatic bust of Queen Nefertiti (around 1350 B.C.) holds crowds spellbound. The gallery is also home to the Museum for Prehistory and Early History, with highlights such as the Neanderthal skull from Le Moustier and Heinrich Schliemann’s collection of Trojan antiquities and the golden mask of Agamemnon. Avoid the lines by purchasing a time-slot ticket online or by phone.

1 hr. Bodestrasse. 030-266-42-42-42. www.neues-museum.de. Admission 12€ adults, 6€ concessions, free for children under 18. Daily 10am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Pergamon Museum. Climb the polished steps of the Pergamon Altar to gaze on graceful Ionic columns and a frieze of Greek gods battling Titans. Other must-sees include the Babylonian Ishtar Gate, and the Market Gate of Miletus dating from A.D. 120, once the entrance to the ancient city of Miletus in Western Anatolia (today Aydin province in southwestern Turkey). Excavated in the 19th century, the gate was transported piece by piece to the Pergamon, where it has been meticulously reconstructed.

1 hr. Go to Page.

Café Pergamon. Nab a table on the sunny terrace of this museum cafe for a quick coffee or snack, such as baked potatoes and goat cheese Knödel (dumplings). 030-20-90-63-61. €.

Bode Museum. This is worth a visit if only to gawp at the palatial interior of marble pilasters and wrought-iron banisters. Fans of the decorative arts are in for a treat, with Renaissance altarpieces, Prussian ivory and cameos, Byzantine art, and medieval sculptures aplenty. Look out for the tiny 16th-century figurine depicting the goddess Venus.

1 hr. Am Kupfergraben 1. 030-20-90-55-77. Admission 10€ adults, 5€ concessions, free for children under 18. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Strandbar Mitte. Facing the Bode Museum, this beach on the Costa del Spree is perfect for summertime chilling. Recline in a deckchair under the palms, caipirnha in hand, as DJs spin mellow grooves. Monbijoustrasse 3. 030-28-38-55-88. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse. €€.

Landwehrkanal. Enjoy some fresh air with a brisk walk along the tree-fringed Landwehrkanal. Cutting a 12km (7 mile) path through Berlin, the canal is a green retreat in the heart of the city. Don’t expect solitude, though; the shady paths are popular with locals from dog walkers to rollerbladers, cyclists, and even the odd sun-bather in warmer months.

20 min. U-Bahn: Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.

Deutsches Technikmuseum. A silver DC-3 plane guides the way to this cavernous technology museum. Technically minded whiz-kids are in their element faced with everything from nostalgic steam trains to marvelous flying contraptions. Keep an eye out for the 19th-century Dutch windmill in the garden.

1 hr. Go to Page.

Willy-Brandt-Haus. This striking glass-and-limestone building is a fitting tribute to Willy Brandt, the former chancellor of West Germany (1969–74) and Nobel Peace Prize winner. In the entrance stands a bronze of the politician himself, who endeavored to improve relations with the East through his Ostpolitik policy. Now the headquarters of the Social Democratic Party, the building hosts temporary exhibitions and cultural events.

30 min. Wilhelmstrasse 140. 030-25-99-37-00. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Admission free. www.willy-brandt-haus.de. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor.

Every year on the last weekend in May, Kreuzberg celebrates its diversity with a Carnival of Cultures, when acrobats, magicians, and flamboyant dancers take to the streets. The free street festival attracts a huge number of partygoers. One minute it’s soca rhythms, the next you’re swaying to merengue or roaming an oriental bazaar. Expect parades, concerts, and club nights a-plenty. For the latest lineup, see www.karneval-berlin.de.

Jewish Museum. Step inside Daniel Libeskind’s emotion-provoking museum for an trip through the past and present of Jewish Germany; from the chilling corridors of the Axis of Holocaust to the permanent exhibition upstairs celebrating famous sons such as the Romantic composer and conductor Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (1809–47).

1 hr. Go to Page.

Berlinische Galerie. This modernist gallery, housed in a former glass warehouse, is particularly strong on styles such as the Berlin Secession, New Objectivity, and Expressionism. Look out for works by Otto Dix, George Grosz, and Max Liebermann.

1 hr. Go to Page.

Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche. Turn south onto Zossener Strasse gracefuland you’ll notice the wistful spires, cupola, and rosy hue of this little-known evangelical church. Light floods the rose window of this neo-Gothic beauty built between 1884 and 1888 by German architect Johannes Otzen. Ismond Rosen’s 1996 triptych sculpture Christus im Holocaust (Christ in the Holocaust) is worth seeking out.

20 min. Zossener Strasse 65. Mon 9am–3pm, Tues–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 3–6pm, Sun 9am–6pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor.

Hallesches Tor Cemetery. Across the street, an 18th-century cemetery hides a shrine for classical music pilgrims. As you enter, veer left to find the white cross marking the grave of the prominent Romantic composer and conductor Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (1809–47), who had composed 12 string symphonies by the age of 14. His famous works include the String Octet (1825) and incidental music to Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (1826) with the famous Wedding March. The composer is buried close to his sister, Fanny Hensel Mendelssohn, also a gifted composer and pianist. Overgrown with ivy and shaded by trees, the rest of the silent graveyard is scattered with graceful Art Nouveau funerary sculptures.

20 min. Mehringdamm 21. No phone. Summer 8am–8pm; winter 8am–4pm. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebab. Mustafa’s vegetarian kebab stand right in front of the U-Bahn station is a Kreuzberg favorite for its fresh ingredients and pocket-pleasing prices. Mehringdamm U-Bahn. €.

Mehringdamm. Kreuzberg’s main drag is a great place to get a feel for this offbeat, ethnic neighborhood. It’s dotted with inexpensive snack bars where you can stop for a Currywurst, falafel, or kebab. On and around Mehringdamm, one-off specialty shops, boho cafes, and bars invite exploration.

20 min. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

Riehmers Hofgarten. Leave the hubbub of Mehringdamm behind by passing through a wrought-iron gate and taking a stroll through this sublime Art Nouveau courtyard, lined with elegant 19th-century townhouses.

15 min. Go to Page.

Maestro Gelatiere. Pop into this Italian ice cream parlor for unusual-flavor gelato such as chestnut or ginger, before heading across to Viktoriapark opposite. Kreuzbergstrasse 13. 030-78-89-71-75. €.

Viktoriapark. This leafy park is where Kreuzbergers from all walks of life come when the sun’s out. Enjoy a picnic by the waterfall, or climb up to the 66m (217 ft.) viewing point for a panorama of Berlin.

30 min. Go to Page.

Bergmannstrasse. Time and energy permitting, you can round off your day on Kreuzberg’s lively bar mile. One local favorite is the underground, über-cool Bar Nou, where the expert mixologists serve a refreshing Shaolin Iced Tea. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

Need to give your feet a rest? For an indulgent Turkish bath, scrub or olive oil massage, head over to Sultan Hamam (Bülowstrasse 57; 030-21-75-33-75; www.sultan-hamam.de). Most days are for women only, except on Sundays when it’s mixed and Mondays when it’s men only. Alternatively, Liquidrom (Möckernstrasse 10; 030-258-00-78-20; www.liquidrom-berlin.de) is a day spa with minimalist decor, subtle lighting, and underwater classical music lulling you into relaxation. You can drift away in the domed saltwater pool, with a Himalayan salt sauna or a soothing Balinese massage.

Berlin Zoo. If your kids are tired of grown-up stuff, take them to visit Berlin’s zoo. Two stone elephants guard the pagoda-style entrance gate, behind which the gardens play host to spacious animal enclosures. Take your little ones to see the penguins, sea lions, zebras, and bubble-blowing hippos, as well as rarities like the flightless kiwi bird, indigenous to New Zealand.

1½ hr. Go to Page. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

Helmut Newton Foundation. Tucked behind Zoologischer Garten S-Bahn station, this museum zooms in on prolific fashion photographer Helmut Newton (1920–2004), whose images graced the pages of fashion magazines like Vanity Fair and Vogue. Born in Berlin to a German-Jewish father, Newton was forced to flee the city in 1938. Alongside some of his famous nudes, the display shows items from his private life—from his reconstructed Monte Carlo office to calendars, posters, and letters.

1 hr. Jebensstrasse 2. 030-31-86-48-56. www.helmutnewton.com. Admission 106€ adults, 5€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; to 8pm Thurs. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

Ludwig-Erhard-Haus. Across the way, you can’t miss British architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw’s modernist edifice, designed in 1994 to house the Chamber of Commerce and Berlin Stock Exchange. The exterior gives the appearance of a giant armadillo—this organic form supposedly symbolizes the living “organism” of the stock market.

10 min. Fasanenstrasse 83–84. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

Theater des Westens. Soaring pillars, wreath-bearing cherubs, and lavish stucco epitomize turn-of-the-century grandeur at this Kantstrasse theater. Luminaries such as actress Marlene Dietrich and French-American singer Josephine Baker have graced the stage over the years. Pause to admire the facade: A mélange of Renaissance, Art Nouveau, and Empire styles, built by Bernhard Sehring in 1895.

10 min. Go to Page.

Kant-Dreieck. Walking west along Kantstrasse, Josef Paul Kleihues’ 36m (118 ft.) gneiss-and-steel tower, graced by a sail-like Dreieck (triangle), forces you to look up.

10 min. Kantstrasse 155. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

Fasanenstrasse. Stretching from Charlottenburger Tor to Hohenzollerndamm, this elegant street takes its name from the 18th-century Fasanerie (royal pheasant house) of King Friedrich II. Lined with galleries, and smart boutiques, Fasanenstrasse is one of Charlottenburg’s most elegant avenues. It’s also a hive of creativity, drawing local artists and authors. Amble south to Fasanenplatz, a leafy square flanked by typical Art Nouveau townhouses. Slightly farther along is the one-time residence of author Heinrich Mann (no. 61), brother of Nobel Laureate Thomas, who in 1905 penned Professor Unrat. His book was the inspiration for The Blue Angel, the film that brought Marlene Dietrich to world renown.

1 hr. Fasanenstrasse. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse.

Literaturhaus. Local authors gather for coffee and intelligent conversation at this cafe/bookshop, which was formerly a military hospital, soup kitchen, and brothel. Come for fireside readings or the leafy garden in warmer weather. Fasanenstrasse 23. 030-882-54-14. €.

Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. Contemplate the emotive, brooding works of German painter and sculptor Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945) in this gem of a museum. Set in a gorgeous 19th-century villa, the collection comprises graphics, lithographs, woodcuts, and sculptures that reveal recurring themes of social injustice and the horrors of war. Brot! (1924) and The Call of Death (1934–35) are particularly intense.

45 min. Fasanenstrasse 24. 030-882-52-10. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ concessions. Daily 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse.

Kurfürstendamm. Simply Ku’damm to locals, this once-royal bridle path turned shopping mile is one of Berlin’s most elegant boulevards. When the city was divided, Ku’Damm was West Berlin’s Broadway. Head west for upscale designer boutiques such as Budapester Schuhe, Gucci, Cartier, and Valentino. The eastern stretch, where Ku’damm meets Tauentzienstrasse, is given over to department stores and high-street brands such as Benetton, Camper, and Diesel.

45 min. Kurfürstendamm. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse.

The Story of Berlin. This interactive museum chronicles Berlin’s history using photos, film, costumes, and audio effects. You start with the founding of the city in the 13th century and move swiftly to Prussia, the Industrial Revolution, the Third Reich, and the Berlin Wall. The highlight is an original air-raid shelter built during the Cold War. It’s an intriguing, sensory way of exploring Berlin’s past that kids will love.

45 min. Kurfürstendamm 207–208. 030-88-72-01-00. www.story-of-berlin.de. Admission 12€ adults, 5€ children under 15. Daily 10am–8pm. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse.

Nibs Cacao. The hot chocolate here is dark, smooth, and totally divine. Choose from varieties including Spanish-style with churros to American-style with marshmallows. Bleibtreustrasse 46. 030-34-72-63-00. €.

Savignyplatz. Wandering east you hit this square linking Kantstrasse and Ku’damm, framed by bars and restaurants. The southern side shelters the Else-Ury-Bogen, redbrick railway arches that harbor one-off fashion boutiques, bookstores, and designer shops. Head south along Bleibtreustrasse to pick up everything from oriental art and antiques to flamboyant costume jewelry and sassy designer wear.

30 min. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz.

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche. The ruins of the original 19th-century structure, badly damaged in World War II and left unrestored as a reminder of war, adjoins a modern octagonal church, designed by German architect Egon Eiermann in 1961. Step inside to view a monumental golden statue of the resurrected Christ suspended above the altar.

45 min. Breitscheidplatz. 030-78-89-11-01. Admission free. Daily 9am–7pm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

Breitscheidplatz. Sandwiched between Ku’damm and Tauentzienstrasse, this square is dwarfed by the multi-story Europa Center shopping mall (Go to Page)—but even more striking is the Weltkugelbrunnen fountain that Berliners nickname Wasserklops (water dumpling), a red granite globe designed by Joachim Schmettau in 1983.

15 min. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm

Berlin Sculpture. Opposite the church is Brigitte and Martin Matschinsky-Denninghoff’s open-air artwork. The sculpture’s shiny steel tendrils twist up to intertwine above a patch of greenery on Tauentzienstrasse. Erected to mark Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987, the broken chain is a powerful symbol of a city divided yet inextricably linked.

15 min. Tauentzienstrasse. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm.

KaDeWe. A few paces farther down Tauentzienstrasse is the grandest and largest of Berlin’s department stores, KaDeWe, where well-heeled locals have been shopping since 1907. Seven floors cover everything from interior design to designer fashion. The 6th-floor food hall offers a gourmet wonderland of truffles, pates, preserves, oysters, wine, and irresistible tortes. Go to Page.

Brandenburg Gate. This triumphal gateway is most impressive first thing in the morning or at dusk. Its imposing Doric columns and its crowning quadriga are ideally photographed from Pariser Platz. Go to Page. U-Bahn: Brandenburger Tor.

Hotel Adlon. Berlin’s poshest terrace cafe (Go to Page), affords peerless views of the Brandenburg Gate. The hotel has rolled out the red carpet for the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Michael Jackson, and Greta Garbo over the years. Unter den Linden 77. 030-226-10. €€€.

Madame Tussauds. Famous Germans from Einstein and film star Marlene Dietrich to Pope Benedict appear in all their waxen glory along with American movie icons and pop singers at this overpriced tribute to celebrity. You’re free to take photographs of all the waxworks, with the exception of Adolf Hitler who is, in an ironic twist of fate, confined to a box. Save money by buying tickets in advance online.

1½ hr. Unter den Linden 74. www.madametussauds.com/berlin. Admission 21€ adults, 16€ children under 14. Daily 10am–7pm. U-Bahn: Brandenburger Tor.

Russian Embassy. On the opposite side of the street you’ll see the tower and sharp angles of the Russian Embassy—built in the 1950s, in typical Stalinist style.

10 min. Unter den Linden 63–65. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin. Next up on the left is a secret too good to keep: The inner courtyard of Berlin’s neo-baroque State Library, which provides cool, quiet respite from Unter den Linden’s crowds. Join the locals to relax on the benches. The cavernous library (closed to the public) houses the world’s largest Mozart collection and the handwritten scores of Beethoven’s Symphonies Nos. 5 and 9.

20 min. Unter den Linden 8. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Reiterstandbild Friedrich des Grossen. German sculptor Christian Daniel Rauch’s equestrian statue of Friedrich the Great, or “old Fritz” as Berliners call him, was unveiled in 1851 to honor the Prussian king’s long reign (1740-1786). Mounted on a fine horse and looking rather dashing, Fritz perches on a podium, embossed with reliefs depicting scenes from his life. He was a powerful ruler, famed for increasing Prussia’s prestige and promoting religious tolerance. Unter den Linden. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Humboldt University. Faculty members have put Berlin’s renowned seat of learning in the global spotlight by winning 29 Nobel prizes, among them physicist Albert Einstein. Alums include Otto von Bismarck (the “Iron Chancellor”), poet Heinrich Heine, and even Marx and Engels (Go to Page,

). Most days there’s a secondhand book market (times vary) in the courtyard. Unter den Linden 6. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Neue Wache. Light streams through a skylight to illuminate Käthe Kollwitz’s Mutter mit totem Sohn, a sculpture of a grieving mother holding her son killed in war. Dating back to 1816, the austere Neue Wache (New Guardhouse) is today dedicated to the victims of war and tyranny, and contains the remains of an unknown soldier and a concentration camp prisoner, surrounded by earth from World War II battlefields and camps. Unter den Linden 4. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Deutsches Historisches Museum. The baroque Zeughaus (old arsenal) of Brandenburg Elector Frederick III that dominates the corner of Unter den Linden shelters the DHM (German History Museum). The collection stretches deep into the vault of history, including displays of Celtic jewelry, Roman codices, Habsburg portraits, and World War II propaganda posters. Fascinating exhibits include the 15th-century Behan Globus, one of the first globes to depict a round earth. On the 2nd floor, seek out Napoleon’s bicorn hat and sword, which Prussian soldiers discovered after he ran from the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. A noteworthy architectural addition is the adjacent glass spiral construction, designed by the Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei to host temporary exhibitions.

1½ hr. Unter den Linden 2. 030-20-30-44-44. www.dhm.de.Admission 8€ adults, free for children under 18. Daily 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

Bebelplatz. It was right here on the cobbles of Bebelplatz that the Nazi book burning took place on May 10, 1933. Some 20,000 works from the likes of Austrian psychiatrist Sigmund Freud and German playwright Bertolt Brecht went up in flames. Under the orders of Nazi Propaganda Minister, Joseph Goebbels, right-wing students and SA (Storm Section) officers publicly burned literary works considered Jewish, communist, or degenerate in a bid to “purify” Germany. A small plaque at the center of the square commemorates the prophetic words of Romantic poet Heinrich Heine: Dort, wo man Bücher verbrennt, verbrennt man am Ende auch Menschen (Where you burn books today, you burn people tomorrow). The exact spot is marked by Micha Ullmann’s extraordinary underground empty bookshelves monument (Go to Page). Tucked behind the neoclassical Staatsoper Unter den Linden (the opera house; Go to Page) is another Prussian creation: The domed Hedwigskathedrale, an 18th-century cathedral inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. Unter den Linden. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

Gendarmenmarkt. The best time to explore this grand square is in the evening, when street lanterns cast a glow across the cobbles. The twin baroque beauties of the Deutscher Dom and Französischer Dom flank opposite sides of the square, with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s imposing Konzerthaus and a noble statue of poet and philosopher Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805) between them. As night falls, the bistros and bars fill up with concert-goers. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

Quchnia Kulturcafé. This cafe overlooking the Deutscher Dom serves coffee with Kultur (culture) at its regular events including poetry readings and film screenings. Comfortable leather sofas and an open fire create a sleek setting for finger food and cocktails. Markgrafenstrasse 35. 030-20-60-92-86. €€€.