Frommer’s Berlin day by day

Café am Neuen See. Quench your thirst on warm weekends at Berlin’s biggest beer garden, seating 1,000. Join beer-guzzling locals on the benches beside this tranquil lake for cool lagers and giant pretzels. A sandpit, table tennis, and rowing boats (5€ for 30 min.) will keep kids amused. Lichtensteinallee 2. 030-254-49-30. Daily 9 or 10am to 10pm. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.

Schleusenkrug. Enjoy a leisurely saunter along the Landwehrkanal (Go to Page,

) to this canal-front beer garden. The name is a fusion of Schleuse (lock) and Krug (beer mug). The attractive garden, with its willow and creeping roses, provides respite from the city’s bustle. The grill rustles up a selection of tasty snacks from 4pm. Müller-Breslau-Strasse, Tiergarten. 030-313-99-09. May–Sept daily 10am–1am; Oct–Apr Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.

Zollpackhof. This effervescent beer garden makes a popular pitstop on the Sunday afternoon trail along tree-fringed Helgoländer Ufer. The chestnut-shaded garden has fabulous views of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt and Bundeskanzleramt. It’s a great spot to while away happy hours sipping Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (see box, below), listening to boats chug past, or warming up beside an open fire on chilly days. Elizabeth-Abegg-Strasse 1. 030-33-09-97-20. www.zollpackhof.de. Mar–Oct daily 11am–midnight; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, closed Sat–Sun. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Mommseneck: Haus der 100 Biere. Choose from 100 different beers at this gallery-style gastropub on Potsdamer Platz. There are brews from Europe, America, Asia, and Australasia, including 12 on tap. The mind-boggling array includes Berliner Kindl, Jamaican Red Stripe, Guinness, and Japanese Kirin. These are accompanied by old-fashioned Berlin dishes such as pea soup with bockwurst (veal sausage). Alte Potsdamer Strasse. 030-25-29-66-35. www.momseneck.de. Daily 11am–midnight. S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Golgatha. In the heart of Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark, this leafy beer garden becomes an open-air club after 10pm, with DJs spinning electro, rock, and pop. You can come to dance or just for relaxed drinks on the terrace. Top-notch German brews such as Löwenbräu from Munich and the local Kreuzberg Monastery dark beer go well with snacks from the charcoal grill. Dudenstrasse 40. 030-785-24-53. www.golgatha-berlin.de. Apr–Sept daily 9am–6am, closed Oct–Mar. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Chalet. Over the Oberbaumbrücke, and down Schlesische Strasse, stands Chalet (127), formerly a laid-back Kreuzberg hangout known as Heinz Minki and now a see-and-be-seen scene with themed party nights. But you can still enjoy a beer in the front part, which opens onto a garden enveloped in vines and strung with lanterns. This is Berlin’s last remaining tollgate, dating from 1859, its garden shaded by century-old apple and pear trees. Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 3. No phone. www.chalet-berlin.de. Daily noon–late. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.

Hops & Barley. This friendly, down-to-earth microbrewery in Friedrichshain offers up hoppy pilsners, malty dark beers, and refreshing wheat beers. Alternatively, there is also excellent homemade cider on tap. Try Schlangenbiss (snake bite), a beer and cider mix with a shot of blackcurrant. You can snack on Treberbrot, hearty bread, and sausage. Wühlischstrasse 22–23. 030-29-36-75-34. www.hopsandbarley-berlin.de. Daily 5pm–3am. U-Bahn: Samariterstrasse.

Bier-Spezialitäten-Laden. This hole-in-the-wall store in Friedrichshain stocks 500 beers from all over the world, including German Rauchbier (smoked beer) and Belgian Kriekbier (cherry beer). It’s also where Berliners come for take-away local brews such as top-fermented Berliner Weisse. Karl-Marx-Allee 56. 030-249-21-46. Mon–Fri 10am–7:30pm, Sat 10am–2:30pm, closed Sun. U-Bahn: Strausberger Platz.

Zur Letzten Instanz. Berlin’s oldest inn, dating back to 1621, Zur Letzten Instanz (To the Last Instance) provides a cozy atmosphere, hearty local fare, and fine brews in wood-paneled surroundings. Napoleon Bonaparte once supped beside the tiled stove, now graced with a bust of the French emperor. Sharp-witted waiters serve classics from pickled pork knuckles to meatballs. If you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend the Anwalts Frühstück (Lawyer’s Breakfast)—a pair of blood sausages with creamed sauerkraut and parsley. Waisenstrasse 14–16. 030-242-55-28. www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Mon–Sat noon–1am. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Georgbräu. After shopping in the boutique-laden Nikolaiviertel, put your feet up at this congenial microbrewery. The shady terrace by the Spree overlooks a bronze of St George slaying the dragon by sculptor August Kiss (circa 1856). Inside, shining copper vats and dark wood create a warm ambiance. Order a pitcher of the home-brewed Georg Pils or go the whole hog with a meter of beer (roughly 12 glasses). Pork is big on the menu, with favorites such as salted ribs, knuckles, and sausage salad. Spreeufer 4. 030-24-24-24-4. www.georgbraeu.de. Daily noon–late. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Get versed in German beer before you hit Berlin’s brewpubs and beer gardens. Many of the best beers are still brewed according to the centuries-old purity law, and are made with just water, hops, barley, and yeast.

• Pilsner, or Pils for short, is a pale, clear lager with a refreshing hoppy taste. It’s the perfect tipple for hot summer days.

• Weizen, or Weissbier, is a smooth, tangy, sweetish wheat beer that’s gold to amber in color. Choose between Kristallweizen (clear and filtered) and Hefeweizen (cloudy and unfiltered).

• Helles A light gold, malty lager that is well balanced and has a crisp, clean finish

• Dunkles, or Dunkel, refers to a dark beer ranging from mahogany to deep brown in hue. It has a distinct malty aroma and can be lightly or heavily hopped.

• Berliner Weisse, a specialty of Berlin, is a tangy, top-fermented wheat beer, often served in a goblet-style glass and with a Schuss (dash) of woodruff or raspberry syrup.

If your appetite has been whetted, time your visit for the free Berlin International Beer Festival ( 030-65-76-35-60; www.bierfestival-berlin.de). On the first weekend in August, monumental Karl-Marx-Allee morphs into the world’s largest beer garden, tempting ale lovers with some 2,000 different brews from 86 countries. Drink in the party atmosphere on the 2.2km (1.3 miles) route with steins a-swinging and folk music on 18 stages.

Microbrauerei Barkowsky. This cozy, unpretentious microbrewery attracts a loyal following. Homebrewed pilsners and ales are available by the glass, meter, or in 5-liter kegs that you can tap yourself. Or try the homemade coffee, and herb and beer liqueurs. Mop up the beer with hearty food like pork knuckles and bratwurst with sauerkraut. Münzstrasse 1–3. 030-247-69-85. www.brau-dein-bier.de. Daily noon–1am. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse.

Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brewery. Little has changed at Berlin’s most famous brewery since Jobst Schultheiss founded it in 1853. It still brews classic tipples such as Berliner Pilsner, Kindl, and spicy Schultheiss. Call ahead to join a 1½ hour tour (available in English) and take a behind-the-scenes look at the different brewing processes. Indira-Gandhi-Strasse 66–69. 030-960-90. www.berliner-kindl.de. 5€ tour, 7€–9€ with tasting. Tours Mon–Thurs 10am, 2pm, and 5:30pm. S-Bahn: Landsberger Allee.

Prater. Bang in the heart of up-and-coming Prenzlauer Berg, the lively Prater beer garden has a brewing tradition stretching back to 1837. There’s nothing better on a hot day than pulling up a bench under the chestnut trees to sip draught Prater Pils (light lager) or Schwarzbier (dark beer). People from all walks of life gather to drink, chomp on Bavarian-style white sausages, and watch the world go by. The vibe’s relaxed and there’s even a playground for kids to let off steam. Kastanienallee 7–9. 030-448-56-88. www.pratergarten.de. Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 6pm–late, Sun noon–late; Apr–Sept daily noon–late. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse.

LEGOLAND® Discovery Centre. A 7m (23 ft.) giraffe, built from 375,000 Lego bricks, greets you at this interactive attraction inside the Sony Center. Younger children will have a whale of a time getting creative building skyscrapers or racing cars. Big draws include the Lego Studios, where Marilyn Monroe makes an appearance, and Miniland Berlin, where kids can pick out models of the city’s famous landmarks such as the 3,000-brick Berliner Dom. Book online to save on the admission price.

1 hr. Sony Center. 030-301-04-00. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.de. Admission 16€ adults and children over 3. Daily 10am–7pm. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Berlin Zoo. Set in the expansive greenery of Tiergarten, the spacious, animal-friendly enclosures at this zoo are exemplary. Discover zebras, elephants, pelicans, alpacas, hippos, and the resident giant panda. Make the most of your trip to the zoo by scheduling one of these feeding times: Polar bears and seals (10:30am); giant panda (11:30am and 3pm); monkeys (noon and 4pm); penguins (1:45pm); hippos (2:45pm); pelicans (3:30pm).

1 ½ hr. Hardenbergplatz 8. 030-25-40-10. www.zoo-berlin.de. Admission 13€ adults, 10€ concessions, 6.50€ children under 15. Mid-Mar–early Oct daily 9am–7pm; early Oct–mid-Mar 9am–5pm. S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten.

With the gigantic Tiergarten Go to Page at its heart, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. It’s also dotted with adventure playgrounds where tots can burn off excess energy. One of the most central is the play area on John-Foster-Dulles-Allee near the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, with tire swings, ropes, and a sandpit. Edging farther east you reach the Volkspark in Friedrichshain with equipment including a pirate ship, a lighthouse, water pumps, and wobbly bridges. Another top choice is Lausitzer Platz close to Görlitzer Bahnhof, where children can have fun squirting water and digging in the sand. Map.

Capt’n Schillow. The kids will love this houseboat moored on the Landwehrkanal. Take a seat on the deck at lunchtime and enjoy a fishy meal of marinated herring with roast potatoes. The houseboat is easy to miss: From Charlottenburger Tor follow a narrow tree-fringed path to Lichtensteinbrücke. Strasse des 17 Juni. 030-31-50-50-15. www.capt.schillow.de. €–€€.

Puppentheater Berlin. The traditional puppets and marionettes that play to crowds at this small theater near Schloss Charlottenburg captivate kids. Performances ranging from Noah’s Ark to classic German fairytales such as Hansel and Gretel are bound to put a smile on their faces. The talented puppeteers often encourage children to take part in hands-on activities after the show. Full program details are published on the website.

1 hr. Gierkeplatz 2. 030-342-19-50. www.puppentheater-berlin.de. Tickets 6.50€ adults, 5.50€ children. S-Bahn: Westend.

Madame Tussauds. Kids will be amazed by the lifelike waxworks at this new Madame Tussauds. Take them to see Shrek, the loveable ogre, and pop stars like Britney Spears and Lady Gaga. Go to Page.

Museum für Naturkunde. What’s 150 million years old, as tall as a four-story building, and as heavy as 10 elephants? Answer: the world’s largest Brachiosaurus skeleton at Berlin’s Natural History Museum. It’s amazing to see kids wide-eyed as they catch their first glimpse of the prehistoric giant in the central hall. Although the dino may be the star of the show, the rest of the collection is also impressive, spanning everything from fossilized sea urchins to minerals and meteorites. Intriguing creatures on display include the pudú (the world’s smallest deer), the musk ox, and the elusive Kirk’s dik-dik. Keep an eye out for the jaws of a great white shark near the exit.

1 hr. Invalidenstrasse 43. 030-20-93-85-91. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3.50€ children under 16. Tues–Fri 9:30am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Zinnowitzer Strasse.

At Berlin’s family-oriented Kinder cafes, moms and dads can take time out while the little ones enjoy free play. The concept is simple but clever: a relaxed cafe vibe and homemade cake or snacks for grownups, a safe play area for tots, and climbing frames, ball pits, puppets, and toys for older kids. Most Kinder cafes are open daily from 10am to 6:30 or 7pm and charge a nominal entrance fee of around 2€ for children. My favorites include Das Spielzimmer (Schliemannstrasse 37; 030-44-03-76-35; www.dasspielzimmer.net) in Prenzlauer Berg, and Kinderwirtschaft (Schreinerstrasse 15; 030-42-02-52-59; www.kinder-wirtschaft.de) and Die Knilchbar (Krossener Strasse 8; 030-29-36-79-89; www.knilchbar.de) in Friedrichshain.

Bonbonmacherei. Entering this old-fashioned sweet shop in the Heckmann Höfe is like stepping onto the film set for Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. There’s no Willy Wonka, but there is a candy man and kids love to watch him make bonbons by hand in the show kitchen. Whiffs of licorice and peppermint fill the air; scoop up hard candy from zesty lime drops and raspberry bonbons to leaf-shaped Maiblätter (May leaves), made with woodruff. Spin the signs to find their names in English and German.

15 min. Heckmann Höfe. 030-44-05-52-43. www.bonbonmacherei.de. Wed–Sat noon–8pm, closed Sun–Tues. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse.

AquaDom & Sea Life Berlin. Discover answers to the mystery of the ocean and trace Berlin’s waterways from the River Spree to Wannsee at this marine center. Rays and hound sharks glide past in the tanks, and tots can handle starfish in the touch pools. A highlight is the Giant Pacific Octopus, the master of camouflage with a 2m (6 ½ ft.) arm span. An elevator whisks you through the 25m (82 ft.) AquaDom, the world’s largest freestanding aquarium. Get here early to beat the lines.

1 hr. Spandauer Strasse 3. 030-99-28-00. www.visitsealife.com/berlin. Admission 17.50€ adults, 12.50€ children under 14. Daily 10am–7pm. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Deutsches Technikmuseum. Discover the technical wizardry of the past and future at this cavernous museum in Kreuzberg. The entrance is crowned by a DC-3 plane, nicknamed the “candy bomber” during the 1948–49 Berlin Airlift Go to Page, because pilots threw gum and chocolate to children below. Kids can peek into the compartments of early-20th-century steam trains, marvel at bizarre homemade flying contraptions, and wander the gardens to glimpse Dutch windmills. At the adjacent Spectrum science center hands-on exhibits are arranged thematically from optical illusions to flow dynamics.

1 hr. Trebbiner Strasse 9. 030-90-25-40. www.dtmb.de. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ concessions. Tues–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke.

IMAX 3D. Entertain kids after dark with a trip to the world’s biggest 3-D cinema, forming part of the Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz. The mammoth cinema screens blockbusters and animated films: From underwater voyages to dinosaur encounters. Slip on your special 3-D glasses and the effects on the screen become incredibly lifelike. It is advisable to book ahead. Potsdamer Strasse 4. 030-26-06-64-00. www.cinestarimax.de. Tickets 9.50€ adults, 8€ children under 12. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Strandbad Wannsee. In the height of summer, nothing beats a day spent building sandcastles, splashing in the lake, and running free at Wannsee. Don’t forget to pack a bucket and spade. Go to Page.

Topography of Terror. This exhibition chronicling National Socialism (1933–45) and the darkest period of German history presents a chilling tale of a country gone mad. The modern building sits on the site that was once the Gestapo (Secret State Police) headquarters, where the Nazi regime planned and executed atrocities. Information panels and eyewitness accounts are displayed along a walkable timeline tracing Adolf Hitler’s jubilant rise to power on January 30, 1933, to the harrowing stories of torture and public humiliation and the post-war trials of SS officers. The photos are too graphic for children.

1 hr. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8. 030-25-45-09-50. www.topographie.de. Admission free. Daily 10am–8pm. S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof.

Wilhelmstrasse. You’re now at the epicenter of Nazi control during the Third Reich. Wilhelmstrasse is where Hitler stripped away the trees so his favorite architect Albert Speer could build a bombastic Reich Chancellery in 1938, complete with a balcony to greet the cheering masses. It was the political stage for parades and marches, and the location of Joseph Goebbels’ grotesque Propaganda Ministry. Mercifully little remains today; the buildings that weren’t bombed in World War II were later demolished. All, that is, with the glaring exception of the austere Reich Air Ministry on the corner of Leipziger Strasse, which now houses the German Finance Ministry.

30 min. Wilhelmstrasse. S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof.

Bebelplatz. Be sure to glance down when crossing this cobbled square opposite the Humboldt University, because it’s easy to miss the centerpiece: Micha Ullmann’s 1995 versunkene Bibliothek (sunken library). Peer through the glass panel to view the stark white walls lined with rows of empty bookshelves. The emotive memorial marks the spot where the first Nazi book burning took place on May 10, 1933 Go to Page. A total of 20,000 literary works, including titles by Jewish authors like Heinrich Heine and Communist philosophers like Karl Marx, were set alight; these shelves have space for each and every one of them.

15 min. Bebelplatz. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

Neue Synagoge. Gazing up to admire the gold-ribbed cupola of this synagogue, it’s hard to imagine that this building was set ablaze by the Nazis on Kristallnacht Go to Page in 1938, and then heavily bombed in World War II. With its Moorish-inspired curves and terracotta hue, it has risen from the rubble of the Third Reich and been lovingly restored to its original state. Today, it’s once again the focal point of the arty Scheunenviertel, Berlin’s Jewish quarter.

30 min. Go to Page.

Dada Falafel. This hole-in-the-wall joint serves by far the best falafel in Berlin. Hear the oil sizzle and smell the fresh mint as your food is prepared in front of you. Other tasty snacks include hummus, couscous, and halloumi. For a taste of everything, order the Dada plate. Linienstrasse 132. 017-95-10-54-35. €.

The Missing House. As you walk along Grosse Hamburger Strasse, look for French artist and sculptor Christian Boltanski’s Missing House (1990) opposite the Jewish School. In 1945, a bomb wrecked the neobaroque townhouse that once stood on this spot. Boltanski discovered that the residents were Jewish and dedicated an installation and memorial to their absence. It consists of a series of plaques marking roughly where the residents lived with their names and occupations. Born to a Jewish father, the artist spent his early childhood hiding from the Nazis; death and disappearance are recurring themes in his work.

10 min. Grosser Hamburger Strasse. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse.

Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt. Tucked down an alley amid crumbling redbrick houses lies this museum dedicated to unsung hero Otto Weidt (1883–1947). In the early 1940s, Weidt set up a workshop to manufacture brooms and brushes, considered vital for military purposes. He employed 30 blind, deaf, and dumb Jews. From 1941 to 1943, he fought to protect his workers from deportation to concentration camps by hiding them behind the business, providing false papers and bribing Gestapo officials.

45 min. Rosenthaler Strasse 39. 030-28-59-94-07. www.museum-blindenwerkstatt. de. Admission free. Daily 10am–8pm. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse.

What lies above ground in Berlin is only half the story. There’s also a subterranean world of hidden air-raid shelters, tunnels, and arms factories. For a sense of what it was like to live here in World War II, join one of the guided Berliner Unterwelten ( 030-49-91-05-17; http://berlinerunterwelten.de) tours and explore the labyrinth of bunkers that provided shelter when Allied bombers appeared overhead. Tours lasting roughly 90 minutes and costing 10€ for adults and 6€ for children (free for under-7s) depart daily from Brunnenstrasse; see the website for current schedule and times.

Gedenkstätte Sachsenhausen. A 45-minute S-Bahn ride from Friedrichstrasse station is the former Sachsenhausen concentration camp, a chilling reminder of Nazi genocide. From 1936 to 1945, some 200,000 people were imprisoned here; tens of thousands died through forced labor and illness, or were tortured or executed. A cynical Arbeit macht frei (work sets you free) sign hangs on the gate to what is now a memorial and museum.

1½ hr. Strasse der Nationen 22. 033-01-20-00. Admission free. Mid-Mar–mid-Oct 8:30am–6pm; mid-Oct-mid-Mar 8:30am–4:30pm. S-Bahn: Oranienburg.

Soviet War Memorial. This memorial looms large on Strasse des 17 Juni, flanked as it is by the greenery of Tiergarten. It pays homage to the 20,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died fighting the Nazis in the bloody Battle of Berlin in 1945, when they seized control of the city. Hitler committed suicide in his bunker on April 30 before the battle ended; this memorial was partly built with marble from his Reich Chancellery. There’s a sense of might about the stoa (colonnade), whose central column is topped with a Red Army soldier immortalized in bronze. Note the T-34 tanks and gold plaques emblazoned with the Communist hammer-and-sickle motif, symbolizing the unity between the working class proletariat (hammer) and the peasant (sickle).

20 min. Strasse des 17 Juni. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. American architect Peter Eisenman’s powerful 2005 Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe is an undulating maze of 2,700 gray concrete stelae that can be entered at any point. The irregular slabs become higher as you approach the center, where they almost block out the sun. Below the wavelike monument lies the Ort der Information (Information Center), featuring a permanent exhibition dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust.

30 min. Go to Page.

Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand. Seek out this quiet courtyard to learn about the German citizens who risked (and often lost) their lives trying to overthrow the Nazi dictatorship. A quiet spot for contemplation, the memorial commemorates the few brave individuals of the anti-Nazi resistance. Among them was Claus von Stauffenberg, who failed in his attempt to assassinate Hitler with a bomb on July 20, 1944. The exhibition offers an insight into the lives of the people who had the courage to stand up and speak out against what they knew to be wrong. 45 min. Stauffenbergstrasse 13–14. 030-26-99-50-00. Admission free. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Thurs until 8pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse.

Wandering the city, you’re almost certain to stumble across one or two Stolpersteine. That was the intention of Gunter Demnig, the Cologne artist behind the brass cobblestone plaques that commemorate the victims of National Socialism. Measuring 10cm (4 in.) by 10cm (4 in.), the paving stones mark where victims once lived, and are engraved with their names and fates. It’s a simple yet effective way of keeping their memories alive. Look out for some of Berlin’s 1,400 “stumbling blocks” along Kantstrasse, Oranienstrasse, and Kurfürstendamm.

Contemporary Fine Arts. Occupying a striking cubic building designed by British architect David Chipperfield, this brilliantly curated gallery sits directly opposite Museum Island Go to Page. The spotlight usually focuses on high-profile artists such as the German postmodernist painter Georg Baselitz and controversial New York art icon Dash Snow (1981–2009).

45 min. Am Kupfergraben 10. 030-288-78-70. www.cfa-berlin.com. Admission free. Tues–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm, closed Sun–Mon. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt.

Me Collectors Room. A space for discussing and appreciating art in the widest possible sense is behind collector Thomas Olbricht’s vision. In 2010 he opened this light, open-plan gallery to show his first-rate contemporary art collection, which features big names like Gerhard Richter as well as emerging talent such as Ouyang Chun, in alternating exhibitions. Upstairs, the Wunderkammer spotlights Renaissance and baroque curiosities, from anatomical models to the tusk of a narwhal. See the website for details on events from kids’ tours to recitals, talks, and tea ceremonies.

1 hr. Auguststrasse 68. 030-86-00-85-10. www.meberlin.com. Admission 7€ adults, 4€ concessions. Tues-Sun noon to 6pm. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz.

This arty neighborhood has a host of innovative and independent galleries. Among the galleries housed in the restored Jewish Girls’ School are Eigen + Art (Auguststrasse 26; www.eigen-art.com) and Michael Fuchs Galerie (Auguststrasse 11-13, www.michaelfuchsgalerie.com), both exhibiting diverse works by emerging and established artists. Berlin-based international artists are in the limelight at the experimental and interactive DNA Galerie (Auguststrasse 20; www.dna-galerie.de). Another favorite of mine is the Dittrich & Schlechtriem Gallery (Tucholskystrasse 38; www.dittrich-schlechtriem.com) up-and-coming artists capture the spirit of the zeitgeist with trans-disciplinary contemporary art. Berlin Art Projects (Auguststrasse 50; www.berlinartprojects.de) spotlights emerging Berlin-based artists. Bear in mind that most galleries are closed on Monday.

Dada Galerie. This high-ceilinged, candlelit gallery-cafe occupies a stylishly converted 19th-century theater. Contemplate the work of up-and-coming artists over drinks or snacks from Dada Falafel next door. Linienstrasse 132. 030-27-59-69-27. €.

Sammlung Boros. Housed in a World War II bunker, Christian Boros’s outstanding private collection, opened to the public in 2008, is perhaps Berlin’s most unique. Contemporary works from his collection are shown in rotating exhibitions that emphasize the unusual space; many are installed and staged by the artists themselves. It’s advisable to reserve tickets at least a month in advance if you plan to join one of the 1 ½ hour art and history tours.

1 ½ hr. Reinhardtstrasse 20. 030-27-59-40-65. www.sammlung-boros.de. Admission 10€. Tours in English Fri–Sun 11:30am, 1:30 & 3:30pm; advance reservations required. U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor.

Berlinische Galerie. One of Berlin’s foremost collections of homegrown fine art, graphic art, photography, and architecture from 1870 to the present day. Temporary exhibitions of contemporary art complement the permanent collection, which zooms in on the Berlin Secession (Max Liebermann and Lovis Corinth), New Objectivity and Expressionism (Otto Dix and George Grosz), Dada (Hannah Höch), and New Figuration of the 1960s (Georg Baselitz). In the forecourt, you can’t miss Kühn Malvezzi’s The Glass Warehouse Marker (2004), a field of enormous shimmering yellow letters listing the major artists represented at the gallery.

1 hr. Alte Jakobstrasse 124–128. 030-78-90-26-00. www.berlinischegalerie.de. Admission 8€ adults, 5€ concessions. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor.

Galerie im Turm. The bombastic Soviet-era Frankfurtur Tor is the backdrop for this gallery, founded by a group of visual artists in 1965. Every year, the gallery hosts up to 10 exhibitions of contemporary painting, drawing, sculpture, print, and installation. There’s a strong emphasis on work by Berlin artists.

30 min. Frankfurter Tor 1. 030-422-94-26. Wwwgalerieim-turm.net. Admission free. Tues–Sun noon to 7pm. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor.

Ever since the Wall fell, Berlin has embraced street art—from the vibrant sprayed murals of the East Side Gallery to graffiti works on apartment-block facades in Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, and Friedrichshain. Italian street art maverick Blu has transformed the face of the city with his gigantic, attention-grabbing murals. Step out of Schlesisches Tor U-Bahn station and you’ll be confronted by Back Jump 2007, an otherworldly vision that seethes with miniature men. Nearby, on the corner of Schlesische Strasse and Curvystrasse is an enormous mural of a headless businessman handcuffed by his wristwatches. Right next to it is Planet Prozess, showing two alien-like caricatures. While you’re in the neighborhood, check out American artist Jonathan Borofsky’s Molecule Man (2009), symbolizing the former meeting point of Kreuzberg, Treptow, and Friedrichshain neighborhoods.

Capitain Petzel. A remnant of the Soviet era, this glass-clad modernist building is a fitting setting for the gallery opened by Gisela Capitain and Friedrich Petzel in late 2008. Exhibitions hone in on works by established artists, such as Americans Kelley Walker, Wade Guyton, and Stephen Prina.

45 min. Karl-Marx-Allee 45. 030-24-08-81-30. www.capitainpetzel.de. Admission free. Tues–Sat 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Frankfurter Tor.

Bauhaus-Archiv. This striking structure with its upraised roof sections is based on the design principles of Berlin-born architect and Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius (1883–1969), who believed that “the ultimate aim of all creative activity is a building.” From 1919 to 1933, Bauhaus revolutionized design with the aesthetic premise that form should equal function by utilizing simplicity, clean lines, and the economic utilization of space. Masters such as Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky (1866–1944) and Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879–1940) created their own design vernacular. Step inside to view their floor plans of prefab housing estates, prints, and models, as well as applied arts from tubular steel chairs to ceramics.

1 hr. Klingelhöferstrasse 030-254-00-20. www.bauhaus.de. Admission 7€ adults, 4€ students, free for children under 11. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm, Tues closed. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz.

Café Einstein. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee wafts from this bustling 1920s-style cafe. The terrace is a great spot to watch the world go by over a drink or a plate of Tafelspitz (Austrian boiled beef). Unter den Linden 42. 030-204-36-32. €€.

Humboldt University. As you saunter down Unter den Linden, take note of Humboldt University where Albert Einstein (1879–1955) hatched revolutionary theories and taught as a professor in the 1920s. Look for the plaque commemorating Max Planck (1858–1947), Nobel Prize winner and founder of quantum theory, on the left wing; he was among the first to recognize and promote the potential of Einstein’s ideas.

15 min. Unter den Linden. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

Friedrichstrasse. Sequins, stars, feather boas—life was indeed a cabaret on Friedrichstrasse in the Roaring Twenties. For a taste of that glitz and glamor, walk the famous vaudeville mile. Although little remains of its showtime heyday, you can still pick out landmark venues such as the glittering FriedrichstadtPalast, where Marlene Dietrich made her revue stage debut and showgirls have been wowing audiences since the 1920s.

45 min. S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse.

Stadtbad Mitte. You can literally plunge into the 1920s at this Art Deco gem of a swimming pool designed by Heinrich Tessenow. Swim laps in the 50m pool under a tiled glass ceiling.

1 hr. Gartenstrasse 5. 030-880-90. Admission 4.50€ adults, 2.80€ concessions. Mon & Wed 6:30am–11pm, Tues 6:30am–7pm, Thurs 6:30am–2pm, Fri 6:30am–9:30pm, Sat 2–9pm, Sun 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz.

Absinth Depot. Get into the bohemian spirit of 1920s Berlin at this shop-cum-bar, where the bottles gleam like wizards’ potions in this absinthe wonderland. Beware, drink more than one glass of the stuff (3€–5€) and you will indeed be away with the green fairies—and might get a terrific headache to boot. Go to Page.

Deutsche Kinemathek. Housed inside the Sony Center, this film museum takes you back to the days of silent movies and screens clips from 1920s classics such as The Last Laugh (1924) and Fritz Lang’s sci-fi thriller Metropolis (1927). The crowning glory is the permanent exhibition on German actress Marlene Dietrich (1901–92), the mirrored rooms are filled with treasures celebrating the German star’s life, from black-and-white portraits to film props, ball gowns, and letters (including one from her close friend Ernest Hemingway).

1 hr. Potsdamer Strasse 2. www.filmmuseum-berlin.de. 030-300-90-30. Admission 6€ adults, 4.50€ concessions. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–8pm, Mon closed. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.

Neue Nationalgalerie. Traumatized by World War I and ruffled by shaky Weimar Republic politics, artists began to use their canvases as a sociopolitical stage. There’s an emphasis on antiwar Dadaism and provocative, harshly satirical New Objectivity. Look out for works by masters of the genre such as Otto Dix, Max Ernst, and George Grosz. Bauhaus is also represented by the intense colors and abstract motifs of Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky.

1 hr. Potsdamer Strasse 2. Go to Page.

Süsskramdealer. With its high ceilings and polished mahogany, this cafe-chocolatier in Friedenau has barely changed since it opened in 1906. Today, owner Martin Hesse pours his passion into three specialties: Coffee, candy, and cocoa. Varziner Strasse 4. 030-85-07-77-97. €–€€.

Nothing says 1920s Berlin like a wildly hedonistic night on the town. The Roaring Twenties were all about drinking, dancing, and dressing up, and that’s just what you’ll find at Bohème Sauvage club nights, held once monthly in a different glamorous Berlin location. Whether diva or dandy, flapper or gigolo—you’ll need to dust off your finery for this glittering affair. Charleston lessons, a casino with (fake) inflation money, cigarette girls, and a dance floor swinging to jazz and tango are all part of the fun. You can order tickets online at www.boheme-sauvage.de. If you can’t make it, the next best thing is Clärchens Ballhaus, an old-fashioned ballroom with swing nights every Wednesday.

Marlene Dietrich’s Grave. Enter this cemetery in a quiet corner of the Friedenau district and walk to the back to see a marble tombstone on the right that bears the gold inscription: Hier Steh ich an den Marken meine Tage (here I stand at the end of my days). Born in Schöneberg in 1901, Marlene, as Berliners affectionately call her, joined Max Reinhardt’s troupe as a chorus girl and actress in 1921. Her big break was in 1930 when she starred in The Blue Angel as pouting cabaret siren Lola Lola. She died in Paris in 1992, but chose to be buried close to her mother, Josefine von Losch. Next to Marlene’s grave is that of German-Australian fashion photographer Helmut Newton (1920–2004), famous for his racy Playboy pinups.

30 min. Stubenrauchstrasse 43–45. U-Bahn: Bundesplatz.

Funkturm. Rising 150m (492 ft.) above the city, Berlin’s radio tower looks like a distant relative of the Eiffel Tower. Imagine how impressive the lattice steel structure must have been when Heinrich Straumer built it in 1926. It’s nice to visit at dusk when the lights bathe the tower gold, and the entire city twinkles below. There’s also a restaurant.

45 min. Messedamm 22. 030-30-38-29-96. Admission 4.50€ adults, 2.50€ concessions. Wed 6–11pm, Tues–Sun 11:30am–11pm. U-Bahn: Kaiserdamm.

Wintergarten Varieté. Acrobats and stilt walkers, magicians and conjurers—the Wintergarten is Berlin’s most flamboyant cabaret hall. The glitzy variety performances are as popular now as they were in the 1920s, when this was Europe’s biggest and most modern theater, sporting the first-ever revolving stage. Book tickets ahead. Go to Page.

Olympic Stadium: Glockenturm. Berlin’s state-of-the-art Olympic Stadium, revamped for soccer’s 2006 FIFA World Cup, has an appeal that transcends football and its notorious past as the site of the 1936 Olympics. A speedy glass elevator zooms to the top of the modernized Glockenturm (bell tower), which affords stellar views of the Olympic complex and central Berlin. On clear days, you can see as far as the wooded Müggelberge hills, the Havel Valley, Potsdam (Go to Page), and the green expanses of Grunewald.

45 min. Am Glockenturm. 030-305-81-23. www.glockenturm.de. Admission 7€ adults, 5€ concessions. Apr–May & mid-Sept-Oct 9am–7pm, June-mid-Sept 9am–8pm, Nov 1-15 10am-4pm, closed mid-Nov–Mar. S-Bahn: Pichelsberg.

Funkturm. Berlin spreads out beneath you, its major landmarks reduced to toytown scale from the 1926 radio tower aptly nicknamed lange Lulatsch (lanky lad). You can climb 1,600 steps to the platform, but most prefer the ultramodern elevator that rockets to the top in 25 seconds. Wrap up because it gets chilly up there.

45 min. Go to Page.

Siegessäule. Tiergarten’s patchwork of greenery spreads out beneath you from the top of the Siegessäule (Victory Column). If you’re feeling fit, scale the 285 steps that spiral up through tunnels to the viewing platform. Here you’re almost at the tip of the 1864 triumphal column, just below the golden wings of Victoria. Look east for key sights including the Fernsehturm, Brandenburg Gate, and Reichstag. 45 min. Go to Page.

Patio. Enjoy views of the elegant houses and trees that fringe the Helgoländer Ufer at this sleek barge on the Spree. In summer, the deck is a scenic spot for coffee or a light lunch. Go to Page. €€–€€€.

If the balloon doesn’t take you quite high enough, Air Service Berlin ( 030-53-21-53-21; www.air-service-berlin.de) also organizes floatplane flights, which take off and land on the River Spree in Treptower Park. A great idea for special occasions, the flights cost 189€ (half price for under-11s) and include a champagne reception. Gliding above Berlin at 600m (1,969 ft.) affords a bird’s-eye view of landmarks such as Schloss Charlottenburg, the Funkturm, the Olympic Stadium, and the Brandenburg Gate.

Französischer Dom. Rising gracefully above Gendarmenmarkt, the baroque French Cathedral is worth a visit for its domed tower, which harbors one of Berlin’s biggest carillons. Climb 284 steps to the 40m (131 ft.) viewpoint for a great panorama of Mitte, encompassing the Fernsehturm, Berliner Dom, and Rotes Rathaus.

30 min. Gendarmenmarkt. www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Admission 5€ adults, 1€ children under 14. Daily 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse.

Berliner Dom. You have to earn your views at the Berliner Dom by puffing up 267 steep steps—but it’s worth it. Although not one of Berlin’s highest viewpoints, the narrow platform skirting the dome makes it feel like it is. Enjoy the sights from your 50m (164 ft.) balcony over the city: From the Lustgarten Go to Page to the Reichstag and Rotes Rathaus (Go to Page,

45 min.

Panoramacafé. The floor-to-ceiling windows at this sleek cafe in the Kollhoff-Tower allow you to enjoy outstanding views over coffee and cake. It’s also a terrific spot for a sundowner. Potsdamer Platz 1. 030-25-29-43-72. €.

Viktoriapark. Surrounded by lush greenery, the 66m (216 ft.) hill at the heart of Viktoriapark is worth the climb. An easy-to-follow trail shadows the waterfall to the summit, Berlin’s highest natural point. Crowning the peak is an 1821 monument commemorating victory in the Napoleonic Wars (1803–15); its cross gives the neighborhood its name (Kreuzberg means “cross hill”). Bear in mind, it is not advisable to walk here alone after dark.

30 min. Kreuzbergstrasse. Admission free. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Oberbaumbrücke. This bridge is a favorite places to watch the sun set. Arrive in the dusky light of late afternoon and you’ll see its whimsical redbrick turrets and arches glow. Look along the River Spree to view the silhouette of the Fernsehturm and O2 World and, in the other direction, the Molecule Man (Go to Page). The bridge was originally built in the 18th century and takes its name from the tree trunk that used to block the river at night to stop smuggling. It was revamped in 1896 in ornamental Gothic revival style. During the Cold War the bridge was a border crossing between East (Friedrichshain) and West (Kreuzberg) Berlin.

20 min. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.

Solar. Take a lift to the 17th floor to see Berlin unfurl magically before you in this stylish glass-walled lounge. Join a young, good-looking crowd for cocktails and superlative views. Go to Page. €€€–€€€€.

Rathaus Schöneberg. The nondescript facade of Tempelhof-Schöneberg’s city hall, dating back to 1914, belies its exceptional history. On June 26, 1963, US president John F. Kennedy gave a speech to express U.S. support for a democratic West Germany: “All free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’.” A bronze plaque pays homage to the former president, who was assassinated in 1964, shortly after the construction of the Wall. Visit the clock tower sheltering the Freiheitsglocke (Liberty Bell), which the people of the United States donated to Berlin in 1950; come at midday to hear it chime.

1 hr. John-F.-Kennedy-Platz 1. U-Bahn: Bayerischer Platz.

Tempelhof Luftbrückendenkmal. Rising above Platz der Luftbrücke, this memorial commemorates the victims and heroes of the Berlin Airlift (1948–49), when Soviets blocked all the major rail and road routes to West Berlin. It was one of the first major crises of the Cold War (1947–91). The only way the Western allies could deliver much-needed food and supplies was by air. Berliners nickname the memorial the Hungerkralle (hunger claw). Once home to military barracks, the pine-fringed square is now a peaceful spot for contemplation.

45 min. Platz der Luftbrücke 1. U-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Tempelhofer Park. Opened in summer 2010 on the site of the former Tempelhof Airport, this 355-hectare (877 acre) open space has become one of Berlin’s quirkiest attractions. Where else can you jog and rollerblade along runways and picnic in front of a former airline terminal? When it snows in winter, there are even cross-country ski tracks. Berliners love their new park for its history, novelty, and wonderful views of the city skyline.

45 min. 030-700-90-60. www.gruen-berlin.de. Admission free. Jan & Dec daily 7:30am–5pm; Feb & Nov daily from 7am; Mar & Oct daily 6am–7pm; Apr & Sept 6am–8:30pm; May & Aug daily 6am–9:30pm; June & July daily 6am–10:30pm. S-Bahn: Platz der Luftbrücke.

Take a trip down memory lane behind the wheel of a Trabant (nicknamed “Trabi”), the classic GDR car with a Duroplast body and smoky two-cylinder engine. Back in the not-so-good-old days, folks in East Germany had to wait up to 18 years for one of these slow, unreliable boneshakers. Trabi Safaris ( 030-27-59-22-73; www.trabi-safari.de) are a fun way to discover Berlin beyond the well-trodden tourist track. A one-hour spin of the “Wild East” whizzes past the East Side Gallery and down Karl-Marx-Allee. Simply book your tour, pick your dream Trabi, and step on the gas—up to 30km/h (18 miles/h)—as a radio guide talks you through the sights. Tours costing 34€–60€ per person depart daily, 10am–6pm, from the corner of Wilhelmstrasse and Zimmerstrasse.

Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie. Opposite the reconstructed guardhouse at Checkpoint Charlie (Go to Page,

), this museum traces the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall. It’s a touching reminder of once-divided Berlin. Alongside black-and-white photos narrating the history of the Wall are accounts of ingenious escape attempts from East to West Berlin. Ingenuity stretched from shovels for digging tunnels and hidden compartments in VW cars to faux Soviet uniforms and hot-air balloons.

45 min. Friedrichstrasse 43–45 030-53-72-50. www.mauermuseum.de. Admission 12.50€ adults, 9.50€ concessions. Daily 9am–10pm. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse.

Marx-Engels-Forum. The officially atheist GDR was not without its iconic figures. These included economist-philosophers Karl Marx (1818–83) and Friedrich Engels (1820–95), the founding fathers of Socialism and authors of the Communist Manifesto (1848), which became the Bible of the Communist movement Europe-wide. Immortalized in bronze, the pair loom above this square in former East Berlin. Note Werner Stötzer’s 1985 Bulgarian marble relief wall behind them, depicting people in an early Capitalist society.

30 min. Marx-Engels-Forum. S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

DDR Museum. For a hands-on experience of daily life in the German Democratic Republic (GDR), nothing beats this museum by the River Spree. Laid out like a prefab housing estate, 17 themed rooms transport you back to the former East Germany, which existed from 1949 until 1990. Everything on display can be touched: answer the phone in the Soviet-era living room, rummage through closets, or rev the engine of a Trabant. From typical food brands to the famous FDJ (Free German Youth) shirts, Erika typewriters to table football, the museum takes a fond look at everyday lives of ordinary East Germans. There’s even a dedicated exhibition on the classlessness and freedom of Freikörperkultur (FKK), or nudism, in the GDR.

1 hr. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1. 030-847-12-37-31. www.ddr-museum.de. Admission 6€ adults, 4€ concessions. Daily 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. S-Bahn Friedrichstrasse.

Ampelmann. When you cross the street, keep an eye out for the Ampelmännchen, the hurrying male figure that serves as a “walk” sign in the traffic lights. A lasting symbol from the GDR days, the Ampelmann has now achieved cult status. Threatened with extinction when the Wall crumbled, the little man has survived at most pedestrian crossings. At this store you’ll find Ampelmännchen memorabilia from T-shirts to corkscrews.

20 min. Go to Page.

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer. Bernauer Strasse is one of the few places where you can view the Berlin Wall as it really was: crude and unadorned. Commemorating victims of Communist tyranny, this memorial is the only location where you can still see the “death strip,” a narrow corridor between the two walls that was booby-trapped and patrolled by guards. It’s an ugly sight. Right opposite, the Documentation Center takes an in-depth look at the construction of the Wall with text, photos, and film excerpts. Next door, peek inside the oval-shaped Kapelle der Versöhnung (Chapel of Reconciliation), built from rammed earth and wooden staves, which opened in 2000 to replace a church torn down when the Wall was erected.

1 hr. Bernauer Strasse 111. 030-467-98-66-66. Admission free. Documentation Center Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 9:30am–7pm; Nov–Mar Tues–Sun 9:30am–6pm; closed Mon. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse.

Mauerblümchen. Aptly named “wallflower,” this no-frills restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg rolls out GDR favorites such as spicy Solyanka (Russian beef and vegetable stew) and Schmalzbrot (bread and gravy) in nostalgic surroundings. Wisbyer Strasse 4. 030-444-79-04. €.

Karl-Marx-Allee. The scale of this monumental East Berlin boulevard is dizzying. Built in the 1950s and named Stalinallee until 1961, it was the showcase for the grand designs of Socialism, and provided the backdrop for Soviet tanks, marching soldiers, and the annual May Day parade. To appreciate its dimensions, walk all the way to the mighty watchtowers of the 1956 Frankfurter Tor gateway. The avenue is lined with eight-story buildings that are as intimidating as they are impersonal. Many scenes in the bittersweet German comedy Goodbye Lenin (2003) were filmed here.

45 min. Karl-Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Schillingstrasse or Frankfurter Tor.

Café Sibylle. Enjoy coffee and homemade cake or ice cream with a dollop of Cold War charm at this cafe. You can take a break surrounded by GDR posters recounting the history of Karl-Marx-Allee and curios, including a fragment of stone moustache—all that’s left of a once mighty Stalin statue. Karl-Marx-Allee 72. 030-29-35-22-03. €.

Stasi Museum. This creepy museum occupies the former headquarters of the East Ministry for State Security, or Stasi (1950–90). It revisits the days when 85,000 Communist secret police gathered intelligence by spying on their own citizens and paying 170,000 informers to record the lives of friends, colleagues, and families. This violation of human rights took place on a vast scale, creating 17 million index cards and files that would stretch 180km (112 miles) if laid out end-to-end. The stark rooms display GDR medals, flags, photos, and spying equipment, including cameras and infrared beamers. The exhibition on resistance reveals how thousands of citizens were kidnapped and imprisoned in inhumane conditions. Don’t miss the drab office of Erich Mielke, Stasi head from 1957–89, preserved in its original state. Pick up an English booklet at the entrance as most information is in German.

45 min. Ruschestrasse 103. 030-553-68-54. www.stasimuseum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 4€ concessions. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm. U-Bahn: Magdalenenstrasse.

Next time you’re at the Brandenburg Gate, Bernauer Strasse (Go to Page), or Potsdamer Platz, look down as well as up. You’ll notice a double row of red cobblestones, punctuated by metal plaques that bear the inscription: “Berliner Mauer 1961–1989.” The Berlin Wall History Mile marks where the Wall once stood, and is a startling flashback to how the divided city must have looked. Thirty information panels complement this line of paving stones, providing some historical background on the Wall, including several accounts of escape attempts.

East Side Gallery. Make a beeline for the longest and best-preserved stretch of the Berlin Wall, near Ostbahnhof station. This open-air gallery displays over 100 politically charged works (painted by artists from 21 countries), which lent the concrete a new raison d’être in 1990. Recently given a fresh lick of paint, the murals now serve as a memorial to German freedom. One of the most controversial pieces is Dimitrij Vrubel’s Bruderkuss (Brotherly Kiss), showing former Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev and East German leader Erich Honecker kissing.

45 min. Go to Page.

Ostel. If you’re not already dreaming of the GDR, you will be when you enter this tower block hotel, oozing Ostalgia (nostalgia for the former East Germany) from every Soviet pore. A picture of beaming East German official Horst Sindermann (1915–90) graces the reception, where clocks show the time in Moscow, Havana, and Beijing. Snooze under portraits of politicians in a prefab apartment, check into the Stasi suite complete with bugging devices, or bed down in the budget pioneer dorm. Wriezener Karree 5. 030-25-76-86-60. www.ostel.eu. Single room with shared bath 25€, singles 33€, doubles 54€. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof.