Berlin’s biggest outdoor playground is a vast swathe of greenery studded with lakes and canals. You’ll find some quiet corners, but most of Tiergarten hums with activity, from picnicking families to rollerblading teenagers. Footpaths weave through woodlands where Prussian princes once went hunting, affording snapshot glimpses of the Siegessäule (Victory Colum). START: S-Bahn to Tiergarten.
Landwehrkanal. Begin your stroll on the grassy banks of the Landwehrkanal, Berlin’s main canal. Running parallel to the water, the tree-fringed Gartenufer skirts the zoo (Go to Page) and offers a sneak preview of its inhabitants. Peek through the fence to spy hyenas, storks, and llamas. Cross the bridge to reach the serene rose gardens.
30 min. S-Bahn: Tiergarten.
Neuer See. A few paces away is the lake, mirroring a copse of oak, ash, and maple trees. When the sun’s out, the best way to appreciate it is by hiring a rowing boat (5€ for 30 minutes).
45 min.
Cafe am Neuen See. Beautifully situated by the lake, this cafe is a terrific spot to enjoy a cold beer or ice cream, and enjoy the views of Tiergarten. Lichtensteinallee 2.
030-254-49-30.€–€€.
Bismarck Memorial. Continuing north along Altonaer Strasse, you’ll be drawn to a striking memorial to Otto von Bismarck, Prime Minister of Prussia (1862–83) and the first Chancellor of Germany (1871–90), famous for creating and shaping the modern German state. Immortalized in bronze, he lords it over a globe-bearing statue of Atlas.
20 min.
English Garden. This landscaped English garden in the heart of Tiergarten is a calm haven where fountains splash beside neatly clipped bushes, flowerbeds, and a central sundial. If you’re here in July or August, don’t miss the Konzertsommer (www.konzertsommer-berlin.de) for free jazz and world music concerts on the weekends.
30 min.
Schloss Bellevue. Edging slightly north brings you to the manicured gardens surrounding the neoclassical Schloss Bellevue. Tucked behind the palace is the Bellevue Ufer promenade where locals come to laze on the sun-dappled banks of the river.
30 min. Go to Page.
River Spree. From here, you can trace the meandering Spree east along Magnus-Hirschfield-Ufer. The promenade provides a wonderful transition from Charlottenburg to Mitte as the greenery fades and the landmarks of Berlin’s cityscape gradually unfold.
45 min.
As the German ditty goes, when the sun shines it’s time to Pack die Badehose ein (pack your bathing trunks) and jump on the train to Wannsee. Kick back in a wicker lounger and feel the sand between your toes. Alternatively, spend a day exploring the nearby botanical gardens, painter Max Liebermann’s villa, and the whimsical palace of King Friedrich Wilhelm II on Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island). START: S-Bahn to Botanischer Garten.
Botanischer Garten. Berlin’s sublime botanical garden is among the world’s largest, with around 22,000 plant species. Stroll the tropical greenhouses full of orchids, azaleas, and oddities such as the South African Welwitschia (a living fossil), Lithops (flowering stones), and the magnificent Victoria, a giant water lily that flowers every summer. Visit the sweet-scented sensory garden, particularly when it’s ablaze with spring flowers. Another must is the plant geography section to wander past different types of vegetation that grows in the Northern Hemisphere. It nurtures everything from European beech forest to alpine flowers.
1 hr. Königin-Luise-Strasse 6–8.
030-83-85-01-00. www.botanischer-garten-berlin.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ concessions, free for children under 6. Daily summer 9am–9pm; winter 9am–4pm. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten.
Museumsdorf Düppel. Tie in your visit with a trip to this reconstructed medieval village complete with thatched cottages, herb gardens, and stalls for oxen and sheep. Kids can also learn about traditional crafts such as pottery and basket weaving. It’s officially in German, but staff may speak a little English.
1 hr. Clauertstrasse 11.
030-802-66-71. www.dueppel.de. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ children. Apr–Sept Thurs 3–7pm, Sun 10am–5pm. S-Bahn: Zehlendorf.
Strandbad Wannsee. Just a short S-Bahn ride from central Berlin, Wannsee is the favorite summertime playground of Berliners seeking sun, sand, and the next best thing to the sea. A 10-minute walk through pine forest from S-Bahn Nikolassee brings you to the beachfront bathing complex, lined with Strandkörbe, snazzy basketlike reclining beach chairs. Veer left of the jetty and you find a playground, volleyball court, and pedal-boat rental. Over to the right lies the FKK (nudist beach), for those who dare to bare all. Stay after the crowds leave to watch the sunset.
1 hr. Wannseebadweg 25.
030-803-54-50. Admission 4€ adults, 2.50€ children. May–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat–Sun 8am–8pm; Sept daily 10am–7pm. S-Bahn: Nikolassee.
Liebermann-Villa at Wannsee. A meander along the lakefront brings you to the pink summer villa of Max Liebermann (1847–1935), affectionately dubbed by the artist as his “castle by the sea.” Behind a neoclassical facade, art lovers are treated to an exquisite collection of his Impressionist pastels, prints, and paintings, most inspired by Wannsee and the gardens surrounding the villa. These have been lovingly recreated to their former glory with groomed lawns and red geraniums.
45 min. Colomierstrasse 3.
030-80-58-59-00. www.max-liebermann.de. Admission 6€ adults, 4€ concessions, free for children under 14. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.
Cafe Max. Set in the elegant Liebermann family dining room, the museum cafe is a fine spot for afternoon coffee or a light snack. Sit on the lake-facing terrace when the sun shines. Colomierstrasse 3.
030-80-49-84-33. €.
Haus der Wannseekonferenz. Farther west along the waterfront you reach another mansion, dating to 1914, whose cream stone exterior hides a heinous past. In 1942, Reinhard Heydrich and other senior SS officers convened here for the Wannsee Conference, where they plotted the Final Solution to annihilate Europe’s Jews. A simple, moving exhibition commemorates Holocaust victims.
45 min. Am Grossen Wannsee 56–58.
030-308-05-00-10. www.ghwk.de. Admission free. Daily 10am–6pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.
Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island). This UNESCO World Heritage site epitomizes Prussian pomp and romantic folly. Designed by King Friedrich Wilhelm II in 1793, the 67 hectare (165 acre) garden is wooded with ancient oaks. First up when you step off the ferry is the Schloss, a miniature castle sporting mock ruins. It was here that Friedrich used to flock with his beloved Wilhelmine. Amble slightly north to the aviary inhabited by the island’s namesake peacocks and at the northernmost tip lies the neo-Gothic Meierei, built to resemble a ruined monastery. Frequent ferry from Nikolskoer Weg 2€ adults, 1€ children. Daily summer 8am–9pm; winter 10am–4pm. S-Bahn: Wannsee.
Tucked between the prefabricated housing estates in the socially deprived suburb of Marzahn-Hellersdorf, these enchanting gardens, created in 1987, come as a surprise. The so-called Gardens of the World present botanical globetrotting at its best, taking you from Bali’s tropical lushness to the quiet simplicity of a Japanese rock garden. Allow at least half a day to see this urban oasis. START: S-Bahn to Marzahn.
Oriental Garden. Moroccan garden historian Mohammed El Fai’z and Algerian landscape architect Kamel Louafi pooled their knowledge to design this green retreat, nurturing fruit trees, roses, and exotic plants. Enclosed by a high wall, the garden embodies the key principles of Islamic garden design: geometry, shade, and water.
20 min.
Fountain & Spring Garden. The sound of water trickling from boulders, pebbles, and millstones creates a soothing ambiance in this garden. Follow the zigzagging path past 14 fountains that dance against a verdant backdrop of bamboo and pampas grass. The garden is a calm space that brings together the elements of earth and water.
15 min.
Maze & Labyrinth. Be prepared to get lost within the bewildering maze and labyrinth. This clever juxtaposition shows how the two differ: A labyrinth has only one route to the center, whereas a maze presents multiple options. High enough to prevent peeking, the yew hedge maze is modeled on the famous maze at Hampton Court Palace outside London. Scale the tower by the gingko tree to plot your route. The adjacent mosaic labyrinth, inspired by the 13th-century labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral in France, has a light-gray path leading to its center, which is marked by a circular pool representing a “heavenly mirror.”
40 min.
Italian Renaissance Garden. Designed for the appreciation of nature, Italian Renaissance gardens were often symmetrical in form and adorned with mythological statues. This garden is a fine example, with its clipped box hedges, central fountain, and plants in terracotta pots. Look out for the marble statue of Bobolina, a replica of the 16th-century original in the Boboli Gardens, Florence.
25 min.
Chinese Garden. The highlight of a trip to Marzahn is Europe’s largest Chinese garden. Pass the stone lions and enter the circular moon gate to see flame-red pagodas and pavilions and covered bridges with lattice “peek” windows that frame the view. It’s as close as you can get to a garden in Suzhou without setting foot outside Berlin. An intricate path twists past willows, maples, and bamboo to a lake dotted with lotus flowers.
1 hr.
Marzahn is a short trek from Mitte. Take the S-Bahn to Marzahn, and then a 5-minute ride on bus 195 from the stand opposite the station, which drops you off at the gate. Entry costs 3€ (half price for children under 14). Opening hours are daily from 9am to dusk, but some of the gardens (for instance Korea and Japan) close earlier. For further details, call 030-546-98-12 or see www.gaerten-der-welt.de.
Chinese Tea House. This tiered pagoda is the centerpiece of the Chinese garden. Ladies in traditional costume bear trays laden with baozi (sweet dumplings) and pots of aromatic chrysanthemum and jade tea. Chinese Garden.
017-93-94-55-64. €.
Playground. Exit China and pass the Confucius statue to reach this playground, where kids can play freely in green surroundings. Swings, climbing frames, hanging bridges, and two giant bears keep them amused.
15 min.
Japanese Garden. This meticulously landscaped example of Japanese garden design remains faithful to Zen principles. Flowering dogwoods, orchids, and sloe berries contrast with stylistic elements such as dry streams and artfully raked gravel in the karesansui (Japanese rock garden). In the spring, it’s a cloud of pink cherry blossom.
30 min.
Korean Garden. Jangseung totem poles (said to ward off evil spirits) give you a toothy grin at the entrance to the Korean Garden. Inside, discover a quiet haven for contemplation, sheltering courtyards, and rockeries that emphasize Taoist principles of mystery and discovering nature. The layout is typical of the Korean tradition, with a pavilion perched above a clear stream meant to emphasize the pleasure of watching water.
20 min.
Balinese Garden. Positively steamy in winter, this tropical glasshouse showcases native Balinese flora. The garden reflects the Balinese philosophy of harmony through plants that are functional as well as attractive, providing food, medicine, or shade. A path leads past fern palms and crotons, moon orchids, and the sweet-scented flowers of the frangipani tree. Even on a cold, gray day, whiffs of incense and ambient music evoke Indonesia.
20 min.