A wicker basket full of fresh various greens

SPRING

Manila Clams, Arugula, and White Beans with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette

Carrot, Fennel, and Green Olive Slaw

Butter Lettuce Salad with Avocado Ranch Dressing

SUMMER

Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho

Provençal Garlic and Saffron Soup

Lobster and Melon Salad with Hazelnut Oil

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Roasted-Garlic Vinaigrette and Chèvre-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

Field Pea and Corn Salad

Grilled Chicken Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, and Tahini Dressing

Squash Blossom Soup with Corn and Poblano Chiles

FALL

Roasted Mushroom and Bacon Salad with Baby Greens and Sherry Vinaigrette

Autumn Squash Soup with Puff Pastry

Haricots Verts and Pear Salad with Hazelnuts and Prosciutto

WINTER

Indian Lentil Soup

Quinoa, Golden Beet, and Orange Salad

Sweet Potato and Chicory Salad

Manila Clams, Arugula, and White Beans with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette

Although you might think of cooked beans as red-wine food, when they’re tossed with shellfish, greens, and a lemony dressing, they pair better with Sauvignon Blanc. Brian created this recipe for a Workshop session on wine and food matching, to demonstrate how ingredients like citrus and arugula can steer a dish toward white wine. Note that you need to soak the beans overnight.

SERVES 6

BEANS

½ pound large dried white beans, such as Rancho Gordo cannellini beans

1 small carrot, peeled, cut into large chunks

½ small yellow onion, cut into 3 pieces

1 celery rib

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

2 pounds manila clams

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

Pinch of red chile flakes

½ cup Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc

VINAIGRETTE

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced rind of preserved lemons

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 ounces (3 large handfuls) baby arugula

For the beans: Soak the beans overnight in water to cover generously. Drain and transfer them to a large saucepan. Add fresh water to cover by 2 inches. Add the carrot, onion, celery, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming any foam. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until the beans are tender, about 1 hour, depending on age. Season to taste with salt and let the beans cool in the liquid. Discard the carrot, onion, celery, and bay leaf.

Cover the clams generously with cold water and let stand for 20 minutes to release sand. Lift them out of the water, leaving behind any grit.

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the garlic and chile flakes and sauté briefly to release the garlic fragrance. Add the wine and the clams. Cover and cook until the clams open, about 3 minutes. Transfer the clams to a bowl, discarding any that fail to open. Strain the liquid through a double thickness of cheesecloth to remove any grit.

For the vinaigrette: In a bowl, combine the lemon juice, preserved lemon rind, and oregano. Add 2 tablespoons of the strained clam broth. Whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt.

Drain the beans and put them in a large bowl. Add enough vinaigrette to coat them and let them sit for 20 minutes to absorb the seasonings. Add the arugula and clams and toss again, adding more vinaigrette as needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another crisp, dry white wine without obvious oak.

Beans Worth a Star Turn

CONSUMERS SWOON OVER THE SHAPES and colors of heirloom tomatoes, but few people have the same response to dried beans. Many cooks think of beans as a generic commodity, like flour or sugar, and blame themselves when the dried beans they buy at the supermarket don’t cook evenly or taste like much.

Thanks to Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo, we now have dried beans worth swooning over. Brian met Steve at the Napa farmers’ market, where his display of speckled, mottled, and whimsically named beans could not help turning heads. Steve grew them himself at first, but he now has a network of farmers who produce the beans for him, including some growers in Mexico. These old-fashioned beauties have names like Good Mother Stallard and Yellow Indian Woman, and they have survived because backyard gardeners or small-scale farmers prized them, saved them, and passed them down. The first time Brian made a pot of some mottled pinto beans that he got from Rancho Gordo, Brenda Godinez, a winery staffer, recognized them as the flor de junio (“June flower”) beans esteemed in her hometown in the Mexican state of Michoacán.

Brian prefers to cook Rancho Gordo beans in water, not stock, to let their distinctive personalities emerge. The full-flavored broth they produce is a treasure in its own right. The beans cook uniformly and more quickly than you might expect because they are always from the most recent crop and haven’t been stored in a warehouse for too long.

We love introducing Workshop chefs to these beans and seeing the creativity they inspire. Several participants have done riffs on cassoulet; Rick Moonen made a bean chili paired with salmon. Brian sometimes makes a Rancho Gordo bean puree to use as a base for sautéed pork or lamb; the creamy beans make a sauce unnecessary. For the winery employees’ pre-harvest party, he makes a big pot of Rancho Gordo beans flavored with chorizo from the Fatted Calf, a respected local charcuterie producer.

Baskets with bags of labeled, dried beans, with smaller baskets of the beans in front of the bags

Carrot, Fennel, and Green Olive Slaw

Brian likes to serve this slaw with Moroccan Lamb Brochettes, but it would also complement grilled swordfish, fish brochettes, or grilled sausages. Sometimes, at home with his family, he buys spicy merguez (lamb sausages) from a local merchant, grills them, and tucks them into a baguette with aioli and this crunchy slaw. Choose firm green olives, such as picholines. The texture will be better if you buy the olives unpitted and pit them yourself.

SERVES 4 TO 6

1 pound carrots, ends trimmed

1 fennel bulb, halved, cored, and very thinly sliced

1 cup pitted and halved green olives, such as picholines, rinsed if salty

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh mint

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

With a mandoline or other manual vegetable slicer fitted with a medium (not fine) julienne attachment, julienne the carrots. Alternatively, by hand, cut the carrots thinly on the diagonal into elongated coins, then stack the coins and cut into ¼-inch-wide strips.

In a large bowl, toss together the carrots, fennel, and olives. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, cilantro, and mint. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand for about 45 minutes to allow the carrots to soften slightly.

Butter Lettuce Salad with Avocado Ranch Dressing

Chef Alan Greeley, who attended the 1997 Workshop, introduced us to this luscious salad dressing. Inspired by the creamy “ranch dressing” that originated on a dude ranch in Santa Barbara, Alan’s version incorporates avocado for an even silkier texture. He pairs the dressing with steamed artichokes and asparagus; we love it on tender leaves of butter lettuce with a shower of fresh spring herbs from our garden.

SERVES 6

AVOCADO RANCH DRESSING

1 large avocado, peeled and pitted

½ cup mayonnaise

½ cup buttermilk

¼ cup thinly sliced scallions (green parts only)

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

Kosher salt and cayenne pepper, to taste

2 large or 3 small heads butter lettuce

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives

1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 large hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped

Half-pint cherry tomatoes, halved

For the dressing: In a food processor, combine all the ingredients and puree until smooth and creamy.

Core the lettuce heads and separate them into individual leaves. In a large bowl, toss the lettuce leaves with enough of the dressing to coat them lightly; you may not need it all. Arrange the lettuce on a platter. Sprinkle with chives and parsley, then with chopped egg. Scatter the cherry tomatoes around the lettuce. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another elegant, cool-climate Chardonnay.

Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho

Watermelon and Tomato Gazpacho

At the 2001 Workshop, Chef Ken Vedrinski astonished guests with a “consommé” made from the strained juice of tomatoes and watermelon. Preparing the dish involved hanging the pureed fruits in a muslin bag overnight to collect the clear, sweet juices—a procedure that might deter many home cooks. Riffing on Chef Vedrinski’s idea, Brian created an easier gazpacho that blends tomato, watermelon, and other summer vegetables so seamlessly that you can’t decipher the contents. The result is a refreshing and original adaptation of the familiar Spanish soup.

SERVES 8

1½ cups crustless day-old bread, in ½-inch cubes

1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, halved, seeded, and coarsely chopped

2 to 2½ cups peeled watermelon, in 1-inch cubes

½ English (hothouse) cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and coarsely chopped

½ large red bell pepper, halved and seeded

½ fennel bulb, halved, cored, and coarsely chopped

¼ small red onion, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or to taste

Kosher salt

¼ cup finely diced watermelon for garnish

Put the bread in a bowl, cover with cold water, and let soak for 15 minutes. Drain and squeeze dry.

In a blender in batches, puree the bread, tomatoes, watermelon, cucumber, bell pepper, fennel, onion, olive oil, vinegar, and enough water to achieve a pleasing consistency (about 1 cup). Season with salt and add more vinegar if necessary. Chill thoroughly.

Divide the soup among 8 bowls. Garnish each serving with a spoonful of diced watermelon. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Vin de Porche Rosé or another dry rosé.

Provençal Garlic and Saffron Soup

Hubert Keller, chef-owner of San Francisco’s Fleur de Lys, patterned this recipe after the traditional Provençal soupe doux (sweet garlic soup), a specialty of the peasant kitchen. But as you might expect from a chef for one of the city’s most elegant restaurants, Chef Keller has refined the procedure, blanching the garlic to temper some of its bite and adding saffron for a richer color. A poached egg set on a crouton in the center of the soup really dresses up the dish. Chef Keller participated in the 1991 Workshop.

SERVES 4

3 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups sliced leeks, white and pale green part only

1 Yukon Gold potato (about 4 ounces), peeled, cut into ½-inch chunks

1 quart vegetable stock

½ teaspoon saffron threads

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

¼ cup heavy cream or half-and-half

GARLIC TOASTS

4 baguette slices, about ¾ inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, halved

POACHED EGGS

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

4 large eggs

2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh chives for garnish

Piment d’Espelette (Basque ground red pepper) or paprika for garnish

Put the peeled garlic cloves in a small saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, drain, then repeat the blanching two times.

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Add the leeks and sauté, stirring often, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the blanched garlic, potato, stock, saffron, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potato is soft, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to a clean saucepan. Stir in the cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

For the garlic toasts: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush the baguette slices lightly with olive oil on both sides. Bake until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Rub lightly with the halved garlic.

For the poached eggs: Bring 3 inches of salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the vinegar and reduce the heat to maintain the water just below a simmer. Crack 1 egg into a small ramekin or bowl, then gently slip it into the water. With a slotted spoon, gather the white around the yolk. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Cook gently until the whites are firm but the yolks remain soft, about 3 minutes. Transfer the eggs with a slotted spoon to paper towels or a clean dish towel to drain briefly.

To serve, reheat the soup if necessary. Put a toast in the bottom of each soup bowl. Top with a poached egg, then ladle the soup around it. Garnish with a sprinkle of chives and a dash of piment d’Espelette. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another white wine with lush texture.

Lobster and Melon Salad with Hazelnut Oil

Canadian chef Jonathan Gushue, a 2008 Workshop participant, introduced us to the notion of pairing lobster with melon—a clever juxtaposition of rich with lean. The cool juiciness of the melon balances the lobster’s buttery sweetness, so the salad seems refreshing and light. Serve it as the first course of a seafood dinner or, in larger portions, as a summer lunch.

SERVES 6

VINAIGRETTE

1 small shallot, finely minced

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 live lobsters (1¼ to 1½ pounds each)

¼ cantaloupe or other orange-fleshed melon, seeds and rind removed

¼ honeydew or other green-fleshed melon, seeds and rind removed

2 ounces (about 2 large handfuls) baby arugula

¼ cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish

4 large fresh mint leaves, chopped, for garnish

For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the shallot, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Whisk in the oils gradually. Season with salt and pepper.

For the lobsters: Put 2 gallons cold water in a stockpot with ½ cup salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the lobsters and cover. When the water returns to a boil, uncover and boil for 12 minutes. Transfer the lobsters to ice water to chill quickly.

Twist off the lobster tail, knuckles, and claws; discard the rest of the carcass. Crack open the shell of the tail and remove the meat in one piece, or use your finger or a small fork to push the meat out through the larger end. Crack the knuckle shells and remove the meat. To extract the meat from the claw, jiggle the small lower appendage until it snaps, then remove it. Crack the shell of the claw and pull out the meat in one piece, if possible. Cut the tail into ½-inch chunks and cut the knuckle meat into 2 or 3 pieces. Leave the claws whole.

Slice the melon quarters thinly lengthwise, then cut each slice crosswise into thirds.

Put the lobster in a bowl with the melon. Toss with the vinaigrette, using as much as you need to moisten the lobster and fruit. Add the arugula and more dressing, if needed, and toss again. Divide among individual plates or arrange on a platter. Garnish with hazelnuts and mint. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another full-bodied white wine.

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Roasted-Garlic Vinaigrette and Chèvre-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Roasted-Garlic Vinaigrette and Chèvre-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

The Workshop coincides with sweet pepper season, and many chefs are seduced by the varieties they find in our garden. Chef Donald Barickman, a 2000 Workshop participant, succumbed to the small, sweet ‘Lipstick’ peppers—so named for their crimson color—which he roasted and stuffed with creamy goat cheese and served with arugula and roasted-garlic vinaigrette. Bottled Spanish piquillo peppers make a good substitute. Brian adds heirloom tomatoes to make a more substantial composed salad for the end of summer. Serve it before or alongside grilled lamb, sausage, or burgers.

SERVES 6

ROASTED-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE

6 large cloves garlic, peeled

⅓ cup plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 small shallot, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

6 bottled Spanish piquillo peppers (see Ingredient Resources)

4 ounces soft fresh goat cheese, at room temperature

2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted pecans

1 tablespoon sliced fresh chives

1 teaspoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 small clove garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt

2 pounds heirloom tomatoes

½ cup fresh basil leaves

4 ounces (about 4 handfuls) mixed lettuces

½ cup coarsely chopped toasted pecans

For the vinaigrette: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Put the garlic cloves on a square of aluminum foil. Add the 1 teaspoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Seal the foil around the garlic to make a package and bake until the garlic is tender, about 40 minutes. On a cutting board, mash the garlic to a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, mustard, and garlic paste. Whisk in the ⅓ cup olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Without tearing the piquillo peppers, remove the seeds with your finger. In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese, finely chopped pecans, chives, parsley, and mashed garlic. Stuff the peppers with the seasoned goat cheese, dividing it evenly.

Core the tomatoes and cut them into large wedges or chunks. Put them in a large bowl and add the basil leaves, tearing them into smaller pieces. Add half of the dressing and toss well. Add the mixed lettuces and coarsely chopped pecans and toss again, adding more dressing as needed to coat the greens lightly. Taste for seasoning. Divide the tomato salad and the stuffed peppers among 6 large plates and serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another young and crisp white wine.

Field Pea and Corn Salad

When Southerners like Birmingham chef Frank Stitt talk about field peas, they mean small shelling beans, such as black-eyed peas. (Crowder peas and lady peas also qualify, but they’re less common.) When field peas are fresh, in summer, Chef Stitt, a 1999 Workshop attendee, shows them off in this salad, tossing them with grilled corn cut from the cob, tomato, grilled red onion, and herbs. Serve the salad when you’re also grilling salmon, sausages, or pork chops, or with Brian’s Grilled Mahimahi with Preserved Lemon Butter. If you can’t find fresh black-eyed peas, use dried ones, soaked overnight, then simmered gently until tender.

SERVES 6 TO 8

2 ears fresh corn, unhusked

2 slices red onion, about ½ inch thick

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing onion

1 cup cooked black-eyed peas

½ cup diced red tomato

½ cup diced green (unripe) tomato

1 small shallot, finely minced

2 tablespoons torn fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to high. Grill the corn, turning often, until the husks are charred in spots and the kernels undergo the color change that indicates that they are cooked, about 10 minutes. (Peel back the husks and check a few kernels to be sure.) When the corn is cool enough to handle, husk it and cut the kernels from the cob. Place them in a large mixing bowl.

Brush the onion slices lightly with olive oil on both sides. Grill the onion on both sides until charred in spots and lightly softened, about 5 minutes. Dice neatly and place in the bowl with the corn.

Add the remaining ingredients and toss gently. Let rest at room temperature for 1 hour, then serve.

Grilled Chicken Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, and Tahini Dressing

If you have ever made hummus, you probably still have a partial jar of tahini in your refrigerator. Here’s one way to use more of it: in a creamy dressing for a grilled chicken salad. Brian seasons the chicken with za’atar, a Middle Eastern seasoning, and balances the tahini’s faint bitterness with the sweetness of pine nuts to make the dish more wine friendly. You could substitute a meaty fish, such as mahimahi or tuna, for the chicken. That jar of tahini will be empty in no time. Note that the chicken needs to marinate for at least two hours.

SERVES 4

¾ pound skinless boneless chicken breasts

2 cloves garlic

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons za’atar (see Note)

TAHINI DRESSING

½ cup pine nuts

2 tablespoons tahini

1 small clove garlic, coarsely chopped

⅓ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 heads romaine hearts, broken into individual leaves

1 avocado, cut into large dice

½ pound cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro for garnish

Cut the chicken into 1-inch cubes. Make a paste of the garlic and ½ teaspoon salt by pounding in a mortar or mincing with a knife. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, and za’atar. Put the chicken in a bowl, add the oil mixture, and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours.

For the dressing: Combine the pine nuts, tahini, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, and ½ cup water in a blender. Blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to high.

Bring the chicken to room temperature. Thread on bamboo or metal skewers and season with salt.

If using bamboo skewers, prepare a doubled sheet of aluminum foil that you can position underneath the exposed ends of the skewers so they don’t burn. Place the skewers on the grill so that the exposed ends rest over the foil. (If you are using metal skewers, you don’t need to take this precaution.) Grill, turning as needed, until the chicken is firm to the touch, 6 to 7 minutes.

To serve, toss the romaine leaves with the dressing, using as much as you need to coat the leaves nicely. You may not need it all. Taste for salt. Arrange the romaine on a platter or on individual plates. Scatter the avocado and cherry tomatoes over the greens. Remove the chicken from the skewers and place the chicken on the greens. Garnish with the cilantro and serve immediately.

NOTES: Za’atar is a Middle Eastern seasoning that typically includes dried thyme, sesame seeds, and sumac. You can find it at well-stocked spice shops such as Whole Spice and stores catering to a Middle Eastern clientele.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another brisk white wine.

Squash Blossom Soup with Corn and Poblano Chiles

Chef Scott Neuman is a Latin cooking enthusiast who transformed the zucchini and corn in Dolores’s garden into a lively chile-spiked soup during the 2009 Workshop. This recipe is an adaptation that goes well with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay. The soup is light and bright, a distillation of early summer flavors and a delightful first course in warm weather.

SERVES 8 TO 10

2 pounds yellow pattypan squash or yellow zucchini

Kosher salt

1 large ear fresh corn, husked

2 poblano chiles

1 dozen large squash blossoms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 quart chicken stock or vegetable stock

1 sprig fresh thyme

¼ cup crème fraîche

1 small green zucchini, about ¼ pound, cut into neat small dice

Freshly ground black pepper

Trim the ends of the pattypan squash or yellow zucchini. If using pattypan squash, cut them in half through the stem end. Slice the squash thinly. Put the slices in a colander or sieve set over a bowl. Add 2 teaspoons salt and toss well, then let stand for 20 minutes. Squeeze the squash vigorously, breaking up the slices with your hands to release their moisture. Drain well.

Cut the kernels from the corn cob. Cut the cob in half crosswise and reserve. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat and add the corn kernels. Blanch for 1 minute, then drain and chill quickly under cold running water.

Roast the chiles directly over a gas flame or under a broiler until blistered and charred on all sides. Let cool, then peel, seed, and dice.

Remove the papery squash blossoms from the stems and stamens and chop the blossoms coarsely.

Melt the butter in a large pot over moderate heat. Add the onions and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the drained yellow squash and toss to coat, then add the stock, thyme sprig, and reserved corn cob. Simmer gently, uncovered, for about 15 minutes. Remove the corn cob and the thyme sprig. Puree the soup in a blender, in batches, until as smooth as possible. Return to the pot and reheat gently. Whisk in the crème fraîche, the diced chiles, the blanched corn kernels, and the diced green zucchini. Season with salt and black pepper. Simmer gently for about 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the squash blossoms. If the soup is too thick for your taste, thin with water.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay or another Chardonnay with a silky texture.

Roasted Mushroom and Bacon Salad with Baby Greens and Sherry Vinaigrette

Many Workshop chefs are unfamiliar with the clamshell mushrooms, maitake, and other exotic fungi that Gourmet Mushrooms cultivates, so this company’s table is always a magnet at our opening-day farmers’ market. Chef George Brown, a 2006 participant, took advantage of the bounty to create a warm grilled mushroom and bacon salad. Although many people would be inclined to pair a red wine with a mushroom dish, we chose a mature Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve, which echoed all the earthy and smoky notes. In this adaptation of George’s recipe, Brian has moved the preparation indoors for ease—first oven-roasting the mushrooms, then tossing them with browned cipolline onions, thick bacon, and tender greens. Serve at the first sign of autumn weather, followed with a pork roast or seared duck breasts.

SERVES 6

¾ pound cipolline onions

1½ pounds mixed fresh mushrooms, such as trumpet, oyster, and shiitake

6 slices thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon, cut into ¾-inch pieces

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

SHERRY VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 large shallot, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 ounces (about 6 handfuls) mixed lettuces

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Trim off the root ends of the cipolline. Blanch them in boiling salted water for 30 seconds, then drain and chill quickly in ice water. Peel the cipolline (the skin should slip off easily) and cut in half.

Trim the ends of the trumpet mushrooms, then cut them in half lengthwise and crosswise. Remove the tough base of the oyster mushrooms and halve the caps if large. Cut off and discard the shiitake stems and quarter the caps.

In a large, ovenproof skillet, render the bacon over high heat until it begins to crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, scoop the bacon into a bowl; pour off the fat and discard.

Add the olive oil and onions to the skillet and sauté over high heat until lightly colored. Add the garlic and sauté briefly to release its fragrance. Add the mushrooms, thyme, salt to taste, and several grinds of black pepper. Toss well, then transfer the skillet to the oven. Roast until the mushrooms soften and begin to caramelize, about 20 minutes, tossing once or twice partway through. Remove from the oven and add the bacon. Let cool to room temperature.

For the sherry vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, and mustard. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put the greens in a large bowl and add the cooled mushrooms, onions, and bacon. Add enough vinaigrette to coat the salad lightly and toss gently. Taste for seasoning, then serve immediately.

Enjoy with a mature Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve or another rich white wine with some age.

Autumn Squash Soup with Puff Pastry

Autumn Squash Soup with Puff Pastry

By adding a puff pastry top, Chef Albert Bouchard transforms an easy autumn vegetable soup into a first course suitable for company. The puff pastry seals in all the aromas until diners breach the flaky caps with their spoons. Note that you will need individual ovenproof soup crocks, similar to the type used for French onion soup. The diameter on top should be no more than 5 inches to have the proper ratio of soup to pastry. Chef Bouchard attended the 2006 Workshop.

SERVES 6

½ acorn squash (about ¾ pound), seeded

1 large orange-fleshed sweet potato, such as a Garnet yam (about ¾ pound)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

⅓ cup brandy

½ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 quart chicken stock or vegetable stock, plus more as needed

¼ cup heavy cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ pound frozen puff pastry, thawed but cold

Egg wash: 1 whole egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the squash half, cut side down, in a pie tin or small baking dish with ½ inch of water. Bake, uncovered, until the flesh can be easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife, about 40 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary. When cool, scoop the flesh out of the skin. You should have about 1 cup.

Pierce the sweet potato in several places with a fork. Place it in a pie tin or on a baking sheet and bake alongside the squash until tender when pierced, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh out of the skin. You should have about 1 cup.

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the brandy and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes to burn off the alcohol. Add the squash, sweet potato, ginger, cinnamon, and stock. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 5 minutes to blend the flavors.

In a blender or food processor, puree the contents of the pot until smooth. Pour into a clean pot. Whisk in the cream. Thin with additional stock if needed to achieve a pleasing soup consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the puff pastry to a ⅛-inch thickness. Cut 6 rounds, each 2 inches larger in diameter than the top of the soup bowl (for a 5-inch bowl, cut a 7-inch round). To guide you, invert a bowl onto the flattened pastry and cut around it. You can gather and reroll the scraps once. Put the rounds on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Divide the soup among 6 ovenproof bowls. Brush the rim of each bowl with egg wash. Cover with a round of pastry and press the pastry firmly around the sides so the top is taut, like a drum. Make sure there are no cracks in the pastry. Brush the tops lightly with egg wash.

Bake until the pastry is puffed and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve or another full-bodied, oak-aged white wine.

Haricots Verts and Pear Salad with Hazelnuts and Prosciutto

Because of their tart dressings, salads are not always wine-friendly dishes, but adding cured meat like prosciutto can bridge the divide. Toasted nuts help, too, contributing a buttery note that mellows vinegar’s sharpness. This autumn salad from the winery pairs slender French haricots verts (green beans) with a blend of cool-weather greens and a hazelnut-oil dressing. Follow it with roast chicken or duck.

SERVES 6

½ pound haricots verts

VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 small shallot, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons hazelnut oil

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 head frisée

2 small Belgian endives

1 ounce (about 1 handful) arugula

¼ cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts

1 Bartlett pear, ripe but firm

8 to 12 thin slices prosciutto di Parma

Trim the ends of the haricots verts. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the beans until crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes, then drain and transfer to ice water to preserve the color. Drain again and pat dry. Cut in half crosswise. Place in a large mixing bowl.

For the vinaigrette: Put the vinegar, shallot, and mustard in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Gradually whisk in the oils. Season with salt and pepper.

Trim the core and any dark green outer leaves and leaf tips from the frisée. Tear the pale yellow center leaves into bite-size pieces. Slice the endives on a slight diagonal into 1-inch pieces. Separate into individual layers and discard the core. Add the frisée, endive, arugula, and hazelnuts to the bowl with the beans.

Cut the pear in half, remove the core and slice thinly lengthwise. Add to the bowl. Toss with enough of the vinaigrette to coat the salad lightly; you may not need it all.

If the prosciutto slices are large, tear in half. Make a loose ring of prosciutto on each plate, then mound a handful of salad in the center of the ring. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve or another full-bodied white wine.

Indian Lentil Soup

As Cakebread Cellars expanded sales overseas, we began inviting chefs from abroad to participate in the Workshop. Predictably, some new and intriguing scents soon emerged from our kitchen. This warmly spiced lentil soup is Brian’s invention, but he devised it after working with Indian chef Sujan Mukherjee at the 2008 Workshop and observing his spicing. Now Brian makes this wholesome soup with the Napa elementary school students that he teaches regularly, and he demonstrates the recipe at our employees’ wellness classes.

SERVES 10

1 pound red lentils (see Note)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small yellow onion, minced

1 celery rib, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 serrano chile, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ cups peeled, seeded, and chopped plum tomato (fresh or canned)

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

1 teaspoon garam masala (Indian spice blend)

Put the lentils in a large pot and cover with cold water. Swish with your hand to release surface starch, then pour off the water. Repeat this rinsing and draining until the water runs clear.

Cover the lentils with 2 quarts cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, skimming any foam. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until the lentils are tender and beginning to fall apart, about 15 minutes.

In another large pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, garlic, chile, paprika, cumin, and turmeric and sauté until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until the tomato softens and the juices thicken, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cooked lentils and their liquid. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Simmer for 10 minutes, then stir in the cilantro and garam masala and taste for salt. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Serve immediately, garnishing each portion with a little additional chopped cilantro.

NOTES: Red lentils are available at Indian markets, natural foods stores, and some well-stocked supermarkets. Despite the name, they are closer to salmon-pink in color.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another barrel-fermented Chardonnay.

Quinoa, Golden Beet, and Orange Salad

Brian does most of the cooking at home for his wife, Kristina, and their two small children, but this salad is one of Kristina’s specialties. She adapts it to the season, but quinoa is always the starting point. Nutty and quick cooking, quinoa is high in protein and will hold up for about an hour after it’s dressed. Serve this refreshing winter salad with pork, chicken, or fish, or with feta for a meatless meal.

SERVES 6

8 golden beets, golf ball size

1½ cups quinoa

2 large navel oranges

½ cup thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts

¾ cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts

DRESSING

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons walnut oil

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wrap the beets in a loose aluminum-foil package, sealing the package tightly. Bake until the beets are tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife, 45 minutes to 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, peel the beets and cut into ¾-inch dice.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa and cook until tender, about 12 minutes. Drain and spread on a sheet pan to cool.

Cut a slice off both ends of each orange so they will stand upright. Stand each orange on a work surface and, using a sharp knife, remove all the peel and membrane by slicing from top to bottom all the way around the orange, following the contour of the fruit. Cut the oranges into ¾-inch cubes.

Put the cooled quinoa in a large bowl. Add the beets, oranges, scallions, and walnuts.

For the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and honey. Gradually whisk in the oils. Season with salt and pepper. Add to the salad and toss to coat. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Sweet Potato and Chicory Salad

For this salad, Brian likes to mix the moist, orange-fleshed sweet potatoes—such as Garnet or Jewel—with drier, yellow-fleshed varieties. Ask your produce merchant to point you to the right types if you aren’t sure. After roasting and cubing the sweet potatoes, Brian tosses them with a mix of bitter chicories, a nutty sherry vinaigrette, and fine shavings of sheep’s milk cheese—an inspired marriage of contrasting textures and flavors. Serve with pork chops or a pork roast for a winter dinner.

SERVES 6 TO 8

2 pounds sweet potatoes, preferably both yellow-fleshed and orange-fleshed varieties

1 head radicchio

1 small head frisée

2 Belgian endives

Sherry vinaigrette

3 ounces Bellwether Farms San Andreas or other aged sheep’s milk cheese, in one piece

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Pierce the sweet potatoes in several places with a fork, place on a baking sheet, and roast until they are tender when pierced, about 1 hour. Let cool, peel, and cut into ¾-inch chunks.

Cut the radicchio in half, cut away the core, then tear the leaves into bite-size pieces and place in a salad bowl.

Trim the core and any dark green outer leaves and leaf tips from the frisée. Tear the pale yellow center leaves into bite-size pieces. Cut the endive crosswise into 1-inch rounds. Add the frisée and endive to the salad bowl and toss to mix.

Add enough of the vinaigrette to coat the salad lightly (you may not need it all) and toss well. Add the sweet potatoes and toss again gently. Taste for seasoning. Divide the salad among salad plates. With a vegetable peeler or cheese plane, shave cheese over each portion, dividing it evenly. Serve immediately.

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another dry white wine with good acidity.