Floating Islands with Strawberries and Caramel Sauce
Rose Petal and Sparkling Wine Sorbet
Peach Crisp with Crystallized Ginger and Pecans
Blueberry Cornmeal Cake with Buttermilk Sabayon
Ice Cream Sandwiches with Chocolate Almond Cake and Marcel’s Caramel-Banana–Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
Floating Islands with Strawberries and Caramel Sauce
Alexis and Eric Koefoed operate Soul Food Farm in a rural area of Solano County, Napa’s neighbor. The eggs from their pasture-raised chickens are so superior to conventional eggs that they inspired a cooking class at the winery. For the class dessert, Brian created this variation on floating island, a retro French dessert that deserves to come back into fashion. The “islands” are poached meringues that, in the original version, float on vanilla custard—a superb way to showcase first-rate eggs. The unusual caramel sauce flavored with Cakebread Cellars rosé is Brian’s addition.
SERVES 8
1 cup whole milk
½ vanilla bean
3 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
1½ pints strawberries, cored and halved, or quartered if large
2 tablespoons sugar
CARAMEL SAUCE
½ cup sugar
¼ cup water
¼ cup Cakebread Cellars Vin de Porche Rosé
1 quart whole milk
½ cup sugar
1 large vanilla bean
MERINGUES
4 large egg whites
¼ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup sugar
For the vanilla custard: Place the milk in a small saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the halved vanilla bean and add them to the milk along with the pod. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then set aside to steep for 5 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture is smooth, thick, and pale. Gradually whisk in half of the milk mixture to warm the yolks, then whisk in the remaining milk. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens and coats the spoon, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not allow it to boil or it will curdle. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl set in an ice-water bath, then refrigerate. You can make the custard up to 1 day ahead.
Toss the berries with the sugar and set aside for 30 minutes. Pour off and reserve the juices.
For the caramel sauce: In a small saucepan, heat the sugar and water over medium heat, swirling the pan until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and cook until the syrup begins to turn a rich caramel color, about 5 minutes. Once it begins to change color, it darkens quickly, so remove the saucepan from the heat shortly before you think the caramel is done to allow for carry-over cooking. Off the heat, add the wine, which will cause the caramel to harden. (Be careful, as the mixture may splatter.) Return to medium heat and cook, stirring, until the caramel dissolves. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, then stir in the reserved strawberry juices.
Heat the milk, sugar, and whole vanilla bean to a simmer in a wide, deep pan, then adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer.
For the meringues: With electric handheld beaters or in a stand mixer on medium speed, whip the egg whites and lemon juice to soft peaks. Raise the speed to high, add the sugar gradually, and beat to stiff peaks.
With a large soup spoon or serving spoon, scoop about one-eighth of the beaten egg white mixture and drop it onto the barely simmering milk, as if making a dumpling. Repeat with the remaining egg white mixture, taking care that the meringues do not touch. They will swell as they cook, so you may be able to cook only 4 meringues at one time. Cook for 1 minute, then carefully turn with a spoon and poach on the other side until the meringue feels set, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
While the meringues poach, put a generous 2 tablespoons of vanilla custard in each of 8 shallow soup bowls. Spoon the strawberries in the center, dividing them evenly, then top with a meringue and drizzle the meringue with warm caramel sauce. Serve immediately.
IT’S COMMON IN PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS to source meat, fish, and produce with care but to be less finicky when it comes to staples like eggs and butter. Then you meet someone with superior eggs and realize what you’ve been missing.
Brian met Alexis Koefoed at the Napa farmers’ market, where he has found many new purveyors over the years. She had pictures of the free-range chickens on her Soul Food Farm in nearby Vacaville, and it was clear that these birds got plenty of fresh air, exercise, and a varied diet. He took a dozen eggs home with him and noticed a difference immediately. The yolks were sunset-orange and sat up high in the center of the white, a sign of freshness.
Urged by Chez Panisse, the famed Berkeley restaurant, Alexis and her husband, Eric, began raising chickens for meat, too. Compared to supermarket poultry, Soul Food Farm birds really are exceptional. They roam the farm’s organic pasture, mature slowly, and develop that deep, old-fashioned flavor missing in fast-growing, factory-raised birds. Brian made fried chicken with Soul Food Farm poultry for the Workshop’s purveyor dinner one year, and it was as memorable as any Michelin three-star meal.
It’s a pleasure to be able to source eggs from a local family that farms in a wholesome and humane way.
Napa spice merchant Shuli Madmone has introduced many fascinating seasonings to our kitchen, including the dried rose petals we use in this sorbet. His shop, Whole Spice, is a playground for adventuresome cooks, and in recent years, he has brought a collection of exotic seasonings to the Workshop. We grind the dried rose petals fine with sugar, then use that fragrant mixture to sweeten a sparkling wine sorbet.
SERVES 8
1½ cups dried rose petals (see Note)
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 cups cold water
2 cups chilled sparkling wine, preferably brut rosé or brut
Raspberries for garnish
In a food processor, puree the rose petals with the sugar until fine. Stir the lemon juice into the cold water. With the machine running, add the lemon water through the feed tube in a slow, steady stream. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, pushing on the solids, then stir in 1 cup of the sparkling wine.
Churn in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the sorbet to a container, smooth the top, and place in the freezer until firm.
To serve, put 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) of sparkling wine in each of 8 goblets. Add a scoop or two of sorbet and garnish with a few raspberries.
NOTES: Look for dried rose petals at natural-food stores, Middle Eastern markets, or spice shops such as Whole Spice (see Ingredient Resources).
If you have never dreamed of putting vinegar in ice cream and can’t imagine what it would taste like, don’t summarily dismiss the idea. Balsamic vinegar, reduced to a syrup, gives ice cream a pale plum color and a caramel note. If you can’t get fresh cherries, serve the ice cream with sugared strawberries or baked figs. Accompany with biscotti or another crisp cookie.
SERVES 8
ICE CREAM
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 pint whole milk
½ cup sugar
1 vanilla bean
1 pint heavy cream
1 pound fresh cherries, pitted and halved
¼ cup Cakebread Cellars Syrah or other red wine
½ vanilla bean
1 tablespoon sugar
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
For the ice cream: Put the vinegar in a small nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and reduce to ¼ cup, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and chill in an ice bath.
In a small saucepan, combine the milk and sugar. Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, scrape the seeds into the saucepan, then add the pod as well. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the cream, transfer to a bowl, and chill in an ice bath. Strain to remove the vanilla pod. Whisk in the chilled balsamic vinegar reduction. Churn in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour, or until the ice cream is firm enough to scoop.
For the cherry sauce: In a medium saucepan, combine the cherries, wine, vanilla bean, and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring, and cook until the alcohol evaporates and the cherries release some of their juice, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Remove the vanilla bean. In a blender, puree half of the mixture and stir it back into the bowl. Add lemon juice to taste. Chill.
To serve, divide the ice cream among 8 compote dishes. Spoon cherry sauce over the ice cream and serve immediately.
Compared to cheesecake made primarily with cream cheese, this rendition of the American classic is notably light. We make it with Cowgirl Creamery fromage blanc, which is lower in fat than cream cheese, plus ricotta and mascarpone to enhance the texture. A thin layer of Cowgirl Creamery crème fraîche blankets the top. The result is an easy, elegant, lemony dessert to serve in slender slices with a fruit accompaniment, such as sugared berries, a raspberry sauce, or the strawberry-rhubarb compote suggested here.
SERVES 16
CRUST
1¼ cups graham cracker crumbs
3 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 pound (2 cups) fromage blanc
½ pound (about 1 cup) whole-milk ricotta
½ pound mascarpone
1¼ cups sugar
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup crème fraîche
TOPPING
1 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons sugar
2 pints strawberries, cored and halved, or quartered if large
2 cups (4 small stalks) rhubarb, cut into ½-inch dice
⅔ cup sugar
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
For the crust: Pulse the graham cracker crumbs, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse again until blended. Transfer to a 9 by 3-inch springform pan and press the mixture into an even layer on the bottom. The cheesecake will be baked in a water bath, so to prevent seepage, wrap the pan in a sheet of foil large enough to come halfway up the sides.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, or with handheld electric beaters, cream together the fromage blanc, ricotta, and mascarpone until smooth. Add the sugar, eggs, vanilla, lemon zest and juice, and crème fraîche and beat until well blended. Transfer to the pan and spread evenly.
Place the pan in a larger pan and add simmering water to come halfway up the sides. Bake until the cheesecake is set, with only a slight wobble in the center when you jiggle the pan, about 1 hour and 40 minutes. Remove the cheesecake from the water bath and transfer it to a cooling rack. Whisk together the crème fraîche and sugar, then spread the topping over the surface. Return the cheesecake to the oven for 10 minutes, setting the pan directly on the oven rack. Let cool on a rack, then refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours.
For the strawberry-rhubarb compote: Put the strawberries, rhubarb, and sugar in a nonreactive saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat until the mixture comes to a boil and the fruit begins to collapse, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook for another couple of minutes, stirring, to thicken the mixture slightly. Let cool, then refrigerate until chilled.
To serve, run a small, hot knife around the edge of the cheesecake, dipping the knife in hot water as needed to keep the cheesecake from sticking. Remove the sides of the pan. Cut the cheesecake into 16 wedges and accompany each portion with ¼ cup of the compote.
Edible Treasures from West Marin
THE “COWGIRLS” OF COWGIRL CREAMERY—Sue Conley and Peg Smith—have participated in the Workshop for many years. The organic cow’s milk cheeses they make in West Marin—among them, Red Hawk, Pierce Point, and Mt. Tam—now have a big fan club nationwide, but Sue and Peg still make time to attend our little farmers’ market at the Workshop. We use many of their products on cheese boards throughout the year.
Cowgirl Creamery’s old-fashioned small-curd cottage cheese is typically on the breakfast table during the Workshop, along with Bellwether Farms yogurt, fresh berries, and Marshall’s Farm honey. Given the direct connection between all these foods and the local landscape, it would be hard to imagine a more evocative “taste of the place.”
With their marketing company, Tomales Bay Foods, Sue and Peg have devoted themselves to supporting small artisan food producers, especially in their community of West Marin. They don’t view other cheesemakers as competitors but as colleagues who can help raise the profile of West Marin and enhance viability for all. That collaborative spirit is what the Workshop is about, too, so it’s particularly nice to get an approving nod from the Cowgirls.
Florida chef Oliver Saucy, who attended the 1995 Workshop, tosses the peaches in his fruit crisp with crystallized ginger—a nice touch. Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream. Tapioca flour thickens the peach juices without making them cloudy or imparting a floury taste. If you can’t find it, purchase pearl tapioca and grind it fine in a spice mill or coffee grinder.
SERVES 8
TOPPING
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup light brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
½ cup chilled unsalted butter
½ cup chopped toasted pecans
3½ pounds ripe peaches (7 to 10 peaches)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon tapioca flour
1 tablespoon dark rum
1 tablespoon finely chopped crystallized ginger
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
For the topping: In a bowl, combine the flour, sugars, and salt and mix well. Cut in the butter with two knives or a pastry blender or work it in with your hands until the mixture forms coarse clumps. Add the pecans.
Cut an X in the rounded end of each peach. Blanch in boiling water for about 30 seconds, then transfer to ice water to chill quickly. Drain, and peel the peaches; the skin should peel back easily from the X. Cut the peaches into 1-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice in half crosswise.
In a bowl, combine the peaches, sugar, flour, rum, and ginger. Stir gently with a rubber spatula to blend.
Transfer the peaches to a 9 by 9 by 2-inch baking dish, spreading them evenly. Sprinkle with the topping. Set the pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake until the topping is browned and the juices are bubbling, 45 to 50 minutes. Let rest for at least 45 minutes before serving.
When you marry a pastry chef, you don’t have to perfect your baking skills, says Ben Barker, who participated in the 1990 Workshop. That’s why Chef Barker—whose wife, Karen, is a pastry authority—limits himself to simple “beach cottage desserts,” like this cornmeal cake. It’s a homespun, old-fashioned dessert that you can adapt to any summer berries. The sabayon dresses it up for company. Don’t be surprised by the unorthodox method—it really works.
SERVES 8
4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature, plus more for buttering the pan
¾ pound fresh blueberries or blackberries
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅔ cup sugar
½ cup whole milk
1 cup boiling water
4 large egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
¾ cup buttermilk
½ cup heavy cream
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan.
In a bowl, stir together the berries, orange juice, orange zest, and cinnamon. Spread the berry mixture evenly in the buttered pie pan.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt.
In another bowl, with handheld electric beaters, beat the butter until smooth. Add the sugar gradually, beating until blended. By hand, stir in the dry ingredients; the mixture will be crumbly. Gradually stir in the milk. Dollop the batter over the berries, then use an offset spatula or knife to spread the batter in an even layer that covers the berries.
Put the pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the boiling water evenly over the batter. Bake until the cake is firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 55 to 60 minutes. Let cool until just warm.
For the buttermilk sabayon: Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and buttermilk in the top of a double boiler or in a stainless steel bowl that fits over the top of a saucepan. Set over a saucepan of simmering water; the double boiler top or bowl should not touch the water. Whisk constantly by hand or with electric beaters until the mixture doubles in volume, thickens, and is hot to the touch, about 10 minutes. Cool the mixture in an ice bath.
Whip the cream and vanilla to firm peaks. Fold into the cooled egg mixture. Chill, covered, until ready to use.
Cut the warm cake into wedges and serve with a dollop of sabayon.
LAUNCHED IN SAN FRANCISCO in 2005, TCHO is an innovative chocolate manufacturer whose founders think like winemakers. They don’t market their dark chocolate based on cacao percentage. Instead, they focus on flavor and showcasing intrinsic qualities of the cacao bean, such as the fruity or nutty notes.
As TCHO’s chocolate experts point out, the cacao percentage doesn’t tell you much about a bar’s quality or intensity because cocoa butter is included in the calculation. A chocolate bar with a high proportion of cocoa butter to cacao solids could still boast a high cacao percentage without having a rich chocolate flavor.
TCHO differentiates its four single-origin chocolate bars by flavor profile: chocolatey, citrusy, nutty, and fruity. These flavor tags encourage consumers to pay close attention to the aromatic qualities, just as wine enthusiasts do with wine.
Typically, we conclude meals at the winery with a cheese course, but when the occasion calls for it, we might make individual warm bittersweet chocolate cakes or a chocolate-salted caramel tart to accompany our Cabernet Sauvignon.
We use cocoa nibs, the unsweetened roasted cacao beans, more often than chocolate in our winery kitchen because the nibs have intriguing savory applications. Pounded fine, they add a deep roasted flavor to a spice rub for game. Some Workshop chefs have used them as a seasoning for Broken Arrow Ranch venison.
Ice Cream Sandwiches with Chocolate Almond Cake and Marcel’s Caramel-Banana–Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
Our homemade ice-cream sandwiches get raves when we serve them for lunch at the Workshop. We assemble them with cake instead of cookies to make them easier to eat. You can use any homemade or store-bought ice cream, but this caramel-banana–chocolate chip invention from pastry chef Marcel Desaulnier, who participated in the 1989 Workshop, is beyond delicious.
SERVES 10
1 tablespoon melted butter, for brushing
CAKE
1¾ cups sifted powdered sugar
6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons almond meal
12 large egg whites, at room temperature
Kosher salt
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
ICE CREAM
1 pound ripe bananas
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups half-and-half
1 cup heavy cream
4 large egg yolks
½ cup chocolate chips or coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate
For the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 12 by 17-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and brush the sides of the baking sheet with melted butter.
In a large bowl, sift together the powdered sugar and cocoa powder, then stir in the almond meal.
In an electric stand mixer or in a large bowl with handheld electric beaters, whip the egg whites until frothy, then add a pinch of salt. Whip the whites to soft peaks, then add the sugar gradually. Continue whipping until the peaks are firm yet glossy. Gently fold in one-third of the dry ingredients, then fold in the remainder.
Pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet and spread evenly. Bake until the cake springs back when touched, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely, then place the baking sheet in the freezer until the cake is cold.
For the ice cream: Peel the bananas and mash them roughly with a wooden spoon. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly against the mashed bananas, and set aside.
In a saucepan, combine 6 tablespoons of the sugar, the lemon juice, and ¼ cup water. Cook over medium heat, swirling the pan until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and cook until the syrup begins to turn a rich caramel color, about 3 minutes. Once it begins to change color, it darkens quickly, so watch carefully, swirling the pan so the caramel cooks evenly. Remove the pan from the heat and add the half-and-half and cream—carefully, as they will splatter. Stir in another 6 tablespoons sugar and return the pan to medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to dissolve the caramel.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar until thick and pale. Whisk in about 1 cup of the hot caramel mixture to warm the egg mixture, then pour the combined mixture into the saucepan of caramel and cook, stirring, until it visibly thickens and reaches 178°F on an instant-read thermometer. Pour over the bananas and stir well. Chill quickly in an ice bath. When cold, stir in the chocolate chips.
Churn in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a freezer container and freeze until the ice cream is firm enough to spread without melting.
Take the cake from the freezer. Put a sheet of parchment paper and a cooling rack on top, then invert the cake. Remove the baking sheet and top sheet of parchment, and cut the cake in half across the middle of the long side. Spread one half with ice cream, making an evenly thick layer. Invert the other half, including the parchment sheet under it, over the ice cream. Return the cake to the freezer for at least 2 hours.
To serve, take the cake from the freezer and remove the top sheet of parchment. With a serrated knife, trim the edges of the cake neatly. Cut the cake in half lengthwise, then cut each half into 5 triangles. Transfer the triangles to a serving platter, lifting them away from the bottom sheet of parchment. Serve immediately.
An Italian semifreddo is a frozen mousse, lighter than ice cream and made without churning. You can vary it according to season, incorporating flavors from raspberry to pear to chestnut. We like to make it with chopped toasted almonds and Marshall’s Farm wildflower honey, collected from hives in one of our vineyards. The result tastes like frozen nougat. Serve with a thin, crisp cookie.
SERVES 8
3 large eggs, separated
¼ cup dry sherry
3 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup marcona almonds (see Notes in recipe for Kabocha Squash Panna Cotta), coarsely chopped
Combine the egg yolks, sherry, honey, and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in the top of a double boiler or in a large stainless steel bowl. Set over the bottom of the double boiler filled with a few inches of boiling water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the boiling water. With a whisk or handheld electric beaters, whisk the mixture over medium-high heat until it is pale, thick, and frothy, about 5 minutes; the mixture should form a ribbon when you lift the whisk. Remove from the heat and chill in an ice bath.
In a large bowl, whisk the heavy cream to soft peaks.
In another bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar gradually and whisk to stiff peaks.
Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled egg yolk mixture, then fold in the beaten egg whites and ½ cup of the almonds. Divide the mixture among eight 8-ounce coffee cups. Tap the cups on a work surface to settle the mixture, then smooth the tops with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped almonds. Freeze until firm, about 2 hours. Take out of the freezer 5 minutes before serving to soften slightly.
The chocolate cookies that Ritz-Carlton chef Rob Wilson made for the 2009 Workshop delivered two surprises: tiny nuggets of chopped dark chocolate and little bursts of fleur de sel, a coarse French salt extracted by hand from seawater. The salt, although unexpected, seemed to heighten the chocolate flavor. Chef Wilson used cake flour to make the cookies especially tender. He served them with Crème Fraîche Sorbet, but vanilla ice cream would complement them as well.
MAKES ABOUT 4½ DOZEN COOKIES
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons sifted cake flour
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon sifted unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)
1¼ teaspoons fleur de sel
½ teaspoon baking soda
5 ounces (10 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup raw sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
½ cup finely chopped dark chocolate (about 2½ ounces)
In a bowl, combine the cake flour, cocoa, fleur de sel, and baking soda. Whisk to blend.
In an electric stand mixer or with a handheld electric beater, cream together the butter, raw sugar, and granulated sugar on medium speed just until smooth. Do not overbeat; the mixture need not be fluffy. Beat in the vanilla, then reduce the mixer to low speed and add the dry ingredients. Mix on low until the dough comes together—it will be crumbly at first—then mix in the chopped chocolate. Divide the dough in half, then shape each half into a round, flattened disk.
Working with one disk at a time on a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 10-inch round, flouring as little as possible to prevent the dough from sticking. Cut out cookies with a 1¾-inch round cutter (or a cutter of another size, if you prefer). You can gather and re-roll the scraps once.
Transfer the cookies to baking sheets lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the cookies until they look dry on top and are dry to the touch, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on the baking sheet. The cookies will keep for up to 1 week in an airtight container.
Lighter than a custard-based ice cream, Chef Rob Wilson’s sorbet makes a refreshing accompaniment to summer berries, grilled peaches, or baked fruit desserts. Or scoop the sorbet into compote dishes and accompany with his Chocolate Sea Salt Cookies.
MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS SORBET
1½ cups water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups crème fraîche
4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Put the water and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring just to a simmer over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let cool completely. Whisk in the crème fraîche and lemon juice. Chill thoroughly, then freeze in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
When an occasion calls for an indulgent dessert, Charlie Trotter’s chocolate bread pudding should be on the short list. Chef Trotter makes bread pudding glamorous, enriching it with bittersweet chocolate and topping it with crunchy handmade praline. By any measure, it’s a “wow” dessert.
SERVES 12
PRALINE
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
¾ cup coarsely chopped toasted pecans
PUDDING
1½ cups heavy cream
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1½ cups whole milk
3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks
½ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
6 cups crustless day-old bread, in 1-inch cubes
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons confectioners’ sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
For the praline: Lightly oil a baking sheet or line it with a silicone baking mat. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and cook over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Continue cooking without stirring until the sugar syrup turns to dark caramel, 5 to 7 minutes, swirling the pan occasionally and gently so the caramel darkens evenly. Monitor the caramel closely during the final moments as it can quickly go from perfect to burnt. Work cautiously, as hot caramel can cause a nasty burn.
Stir in the pecans, then immediately pour the hot praline onto the prepared baking sheet in a thin, even layer. Let cool until hard, then break into small pieces.
For the pudding: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 9-inch square pan.
In a small saucepan, heat the cream to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Put half of the chopped chocolate in a large bowl and pour the hot cream over it. Whisk until smooth.
In a bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs and egg yolks, granulated sugar, and salt until well blended. Add to the melted chocolate mixture and whisk well.
Add the bread cubes and allow them to soak for about 30 minutes, pushing them down into the liquid occasionally. Fold in the remaining chopped chocolate. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, spreading it evenly. Sprinkle the praline over the surface. Place the pan in a larger roasting pan and add enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the smaller pan. Bake until the pudding is firm to the touch, about 45 minutes. Remove the smaller pan from the water bath and let the pudding cool for at least 30 minutes.
For the cream: In a bowl, with a whisk or electric beaters, whip together the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and cinnamon to soft peaks.
To serve, cut the pudding into 12 pieces. Serve warm, accompanied by a dollop of cinnamon cream.
Grandmother’s Soft Gingerbread Cake
Of all the sublime dishes that chef Nancy Oakes prepared during the 1997 Workshop, it is her warm gingerbread cake that has entrenched itself at Cakebread Cellars. The San Francisco chef says that the basic recipe is her grandmother’s, although Chef Oakes sometimes dresses it up with a ginger syrup. Brian serves it often in the fall, sometimes with a scoop of honey ice cream or just a dollop of softly whipped cream. As dark as milk chocolate, this fabulous cake is moist, spicy, and not overly sweet. Don’t worry if it sinks a bit in the center as it cools. Once it is cut, no one will notice.
SERVES 12 TO 16
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup sugar
1 cup dark molasses
1 cup vegetable oil
3 large eggs
1 cup boiling water
1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Freshly grated nutmeg for garnish (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and lightly flour a 9-inch-round springform baking pan.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, soda, salt, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon.
In a mixing bowl with electric beaters or by hand with a whisk, beat together the sugar, molasses, oil, and eggs until well blended and smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the dry ingredients and mix just until blended, scraping the bowl once or twice. Add the boiling water and beat just until smooth. Don’t overmix or the cake will be tough. The batter will be thin.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and place on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake in the center of the oven until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes. Let cool on a rack for at least 15 minutes before removing the pan sides.
For the whipped cream: In a mixing bowl with electric beaters or by hand with a whisk, whip together the cream, sugar, and vanilla to soft peaks.
To serve, cut the cake into 12 to 16 wedges. Transfer to dessert plates and put a dollop of whipped cream and a few sprinkles of nutmeg on top.
