2 Tuolumne Meadows to Red’s Meadow

SCENERY:

TRAIL CONDITION:

CHILDREN:

DIFFICULTY:

SOLITUDE:

DISTANCE: 37 miles

HIKING TIME: 3–5 days

OUTSTANDING FEATURES: Lyell Canyon, Donahue Pass, Island Pass, Thousand Island Lake, Shadow Lake, Red’s Meadow Resort and Campground

Many thru-hikers begin the John Muir Trail in Tuolumne Meadows, since it’s easier to get permits here than from the Happy Isles trailhead. Others start here to avoid the big climb out of Yosemite Valley and enjoy a more manageable trip start. Indeed, this section begins with the flattest expanse of the John Muir Trail: nearly 8 miles of gentle walking along the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River through wooded thickets and picture-perfect meadows. Eventually you will tackle Donahue Pass (11,056 feet), home to many enchanting tarns, and Island Pass (10,205 feet), with its unique islets floating at high elevation. The next few days of hiking bring you past lovely alpine lakes with ample camping. Finally, reach the unique geologic formation of Devils Postpile and the relative creature comforts of Red’s Meadow, with free hot-spring showers, home-cooked meals, and a general store.

DIRECTIONS: TUOLUMNE MEADOWS CAMPGROUND—Yosemite can be entered via four main gateways: The BIG OAK FLAT ROAD ENTRANCE is on CA 120 West (Big Oak Flat Road) and is the closest western access to Tuolumne Meadows; the ARCH ROCK ENTRANCE on CA 140 (El Portal Road) is east of Merced and the safest bet in inclement weather, as it receives the least amount of snowfall; the SOUTH ENTRANCE is on CA 41 (Wawona Road), north of Fresno; and the weather-dependent TIOGA PASS ENTRANCE is on CA 120 East (Tioga Road); it is the closest eastern access point to Tuolumne Meadows. Tioga Road is closed during the winter months due to snow, and sometimes doesn’t open until June or July. While the first three entrances are generally open year-round, all roads are subject to closure; check with the park service by phone at (209) 372-0200 or visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm to determine current conditions. Tuolumne Meadows is in the eastern area of Yosemite National Park off Tioga Road (CA 120 East). For parking, follow signs to the Tuolumne Lodge and Wilderness Permit office. There is a parking lot on the left signposted for Dog Lake and the John Muir Trail, or you may find additional parking in the Wilderness Permit lot and then follow the signs to the John Muir Trail. The park runs a free shuttle-bus service from 7 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. along Tioga Road from Tuolumne Lodge to Olmsted Point from July 4 through Labor Day; the trailhead can be found at Shuttle Stop #2.

RED’S MEADOW CAMPGROUND—Red’s Meadow can be reached from Mammoth Lakes. From the Mammoth Ranger Station and Visitor Center (on CA 203, 3 miles west of US 395), head west on Main Street for 1.5 miles and turn right to continue on CA 203 (Minaret Road), climbing nearly 5 miles to Mammoth Mountain Inn.

During the summer months, you cannot access Red’s Meadow or the Devils Postpile National Monument via car from 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. unless you have campground or resort reservations, a handicap placard, or a special permit. Wilderness Permits do not allow you vehicular access. Mandatory shuttles operate from the parking area in front of Mammoth Mountain Inn beginning at 7:15 a.m. Tickets can be purchased at the Gondola Building in the Main Lodge; the 45-minute shuttle to the Devils Postpile area is free for kids under 3, $4 for children ages 3 to 15, and $7 for all other adults. Shuttle service within the national-monument area between campgrounds and trailheads is free; Red’s Meadow Resort and Campground is Shuttle Stop #10. For more information, contact the Mammoth Ranger Station and Visitor Center at (760) 924-5500 or visit the city’s regional-transit site at www.ci.mammothlakes.ca.us/transit/regional_transit.htm.

If you have reservations or are traveling in the off-season (October through early June), continue driving up the hill to the Minaret Summit Entrance Station (9,175 feet) and follow the steep narrow road the remaining 7 miles to the Devils Postpile Monument Area, Red’s Meadow, trailheads, and campgrounds.

For hikers not being picked up at Red’s Meadow, you may also return to Yosemite from Mammoth via public transit on the YARTS bus. Buses leave from various points in Mammoth to Tuolumne once daily between 7 a.m. to 7:30 a.m. ($20; about two hours each way). Call (888) 89-YARTS or visit www.yarts.com for current rates and schedules. Unfortunately, because the shuttle bus that leaves Red’s Meadow for Mammoth does not arrive early enough for visitors to catch the bus back to Yosemite, you’ll have to overnight in Mammoth in a hotel or RV campground.

Public transit is also available to Mammoth Lakes along US 395 between Reno and Ridgecrest via Inyo Mono Transit’s CREST bus. The bus travels north between Bishop and Reno via Mammoth Lakes on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, and south between Mammoth Lakes and Ridgecrest on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. There is also limited Saturday service between Bishop and Mammoth lakes only. Rates and routes are subject to frequent change; call ahead for information and reservations at (760) 872-1901 or (800) 922-1930. More information can be found on the Web at www.countyofinyo.org/transit/CRESTpage.htm.

To take advantage of these public-transit options, you must travel between Mammoth Mountain Inn, where the Red’s Meadow Shuttle drops you, and the city of Mammoth Lakes, from which the CREST and YARTS buses depart. This can be done via the Bike Park Shuttle that operates from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily, late June through September. The bike shuttle runs from the Mammoth Lakes Village transportation hub (Minaret Road at Canyon Boulevard) to the Adventure Center located across the street from Mammoth Mountain Inn. This service is free for hikers. It’s important to note, however, that if you catch the last bus (7:45 p.m.) out of Red’s Meadow toward Mammoth Mountain Inn, you will need to hitchhike the final 4 miles to Mammoth Lakes.

Lastly, you could contact Mammoth Shuttle by phone at (760) 934-6588 to arrange for private transit on demand. This is a pricey option but may be worth it for larger groups. Prices range considerably from $100 (from one eastern-Sierra trailhead to another) to $600 (from Mammoth to Kings Canyon). The price to go from Mammoth to Yosemite averages $200 (per eight-passenger shuttle, not per person).

GPS coordinates		Starting trailhead Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Permit Center
UTM zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		0293669
Northing		4194684
Latitude		N 37°52′33.15″
Longitude		W 119°20′59.53″
GPS coordinates		Ending trailhead Red’s Meadow Campground
UTM zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		0316834
Northing		4165592
Latitude		N37°37′9.14″
Longitude		W 119°04′21.91″

From the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center (8,630 feet), meander east on a level, dusty trail, passing signs for the backpacker’s campground and a trailhead for Elizabeth Lake. After 0.5 miles of walking, cross a bridge over the Dana Fork of the Tuolumne River. Shortly thereafter a second bridge takes you over the Lyell Fork. After about 2.5 easy miles, traverse rushing Rafferty Creek on a handsome footbridge (8,720 feet) and begin a beautiful stroll in and out of forest thickets and along the grassy expanse of Lyell Canyon as the trail parallels the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River. The area is named for Charles Lyell, a 19th-century lawyer turned geologist and good friend of Charles Darwin.

Up until the mid-1800s and the explosion of silver prospectors and explorers, only Native Americans enjoyed the beauty of this region. Miwok and Mono Indians stopped in the area to trade during the summer en route east. These days, though, visitors from around the world come to marvel at the landscape. Rainbow trout lure anglers to this stretch of Yosemite from late April through mid-November.

The trail’s proximity to busy Tuolumne Meadows, as well as its level grade, nearly guarantees that you will have company in this part of the wilderness. The presence of hikers careless with their food, combined with shallow waters teeming with fish, also means that this is popular bear and deer country. Be sure to keep your snacks and food secure at all times. Camping is prohibited within the first 4 miles from Tuolumne Meadows. Bear canisters are essential here, and there is no question that you will lose your food if you don’t have one.

After crossing Rafferty Creek, reach the next trail junction in a little more than 4 miles at the turnoff (8,900 feet) for Ireland Lake, savoring views of the Unicorn and Mammoth peaks along the way. Shortly after passing this trail juncture, encounter Potter Point and numerous campsites. Ahead, glimpse Mount Lyell, the park’s highest peak at 13,114 feet, and Donahue Pass beckoning in the distance.

About 8 miles from the visitor center, the trail turns away from the river and begins the initial climb toward Donahue Pass, passing a well-used camping area. Dubbed Lyell Fork Base Camp (9,040 feet), this area is popular with local backpackers and sees quite a bit of use in the summer months. Initially the climb is in a shaded pine bench, and then it evolves into steeper exposed switchbacks with fantastic views back toward the valley. After 1.5 miles, the trail flattens for a bit and reaches a bridge over the Lyell Fork (9,650 feet). There are camping sites on either side of this sturdy footbridge. After crossing the river, begin climbing again, sometimes quite steeply, up a rocky set of switchbacks. Your prize is a stunning mountain tarn (10,200 feet) surrounded by meadows and nestled in a cirque at the base of Donahue Pass. There are a few camping spots here scattered amid the whitebark pines should you arrive in the late afternoon and wish to conquer Donahue Pass (11,056 feet) in the morning.

From the lakelet, cross the southern stream outlet to resume climbing. Often this crossing requires knee-deep wading in the early months of the hiking season (June and July, particularly). Continue up a series of granite switchbacks until reaching a second tarn. This is desolate country, beautiful in its barren shale and scrub. Traverse this plateau and cross the next small lake’s outlet. In early spring, it’s likely you will encounter a snowfield crossing before beginning the final shale and rock ascent toward the pass. Remember to keep looking back for epic views of Yosemite Valley.

The pass itself is a little undefined, and often the sign marking it has been trampled by the winter’s snow. Arrival is assured, however, by the stunning view of the alpine wilderness, including the Mount Ritter range, which stretches out ahead. This is where you must say good-bye to Yosemite, as you amble into the Inyo National Forest and Ansel Adams Wilderness. Formerly called the Minarets Wilderness, the area was renamed in 1984 to honor the famous photographer and environmentalist.

Descend 3.5 miles eastward through a barren landscape of granite rocks and stark tarns with stately Banner Peak luring you closer. Descending to 9,600 feet, the granite slabs give way to an idyllic landscape of forests, alpine lakes, and rampant wildflowers. Many times you’ll ford Rush Creek, which, depending on the season, can be a shoes-off affair. The most difficult crossing comes just before the junction (10,030 feet) with the Marie Lakes Trail, 3 miles from the crest of Donahue Pass. En route, enjoy wonderful views of the Ritter range and the jagged spires of the Minarets. Legend has it that the spires served as the backdrop for the Wicked Witch of the West’s home in the original film version of The Wizard of Oz.

Continuing down, enter the Rush Creek Forks area, and the junction for the Rush Creek Trail. Follow and ford the creek before beginning a gradual 1.5-mile ascent toward Island Pass (10,205 feet), with its incredibly picturesque high alpine lakes and meadows. It’s a bit difficult to determine exactly where the pass’s highest point is, as the climb plateaus out among many gorgeous lakelets.

Tear yourself away from the splendid pass and descend toward Thousand Island Lake (9,833 feet), named for the myriad islets floating within its boundaries. If the stunning view of Banner Peak reflected in the water feels familiar, that’s because it has graced many of Ansel Adams’s visually arresting black-and-white photos. A San Francisco native and renowned photographer and environmentalist, Adams joined the Sierra Club at the age of 17 and began climbing these same mountains shortly thereafter. Within this section of the wilderness named for him, it’s nearly impossible to take a bad picture. Camping is not permitted within a quarter mile of the lake’s outlets, but there are a few well-positioned sites on the lake’s northwest flank.

As you round the lake, the John Muir Trail (JMT) and Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) part ways, not reuniting again until Devils Postpile National Monument. The JMT continues across a log bridge over the lake’s outlet, while the PCT turns to travel the High Trail over the San Joaquin Mountains. Our route follows the JMT.

After a mild descent, the trail rolls upward toward gorgeous Emerald Lake, your first in a series of gem-named lakes. Just past Emerald is Ruby Lake, with good camping on its northern shore. Ascend to Ruby Ridge and drop down a series of switchbacks to Garnet Lake (9,678 feet), a miniature version of Thousand Island Lake with its many islets and picture-perfect backdrop of Mount Ritter and Banner Peak. As with all the lakes, you can’t camp within a quarter mile of their outlets, but there are a few campsites flanking the northwest shores. On a mosquito-laden day, Garnet’s constant wind provides welcome relief from the bloodsucking beasts; the wind, though, can be a bit chilly in colder seasons. This is a favored spot for backcountry anglers and Boy Scouts, so solitude is not likely.

Cross a picturesque footbridge, ignoring the unmarked trail that joins from the left, begin climbing, skirt the lake’s southeastern shore, then ascend steeply. Just before reaching the top of the saddle, look for a small pool for cooling off with a quick dip—highly recommended. Next, enjoy a long rocky descent, often with little water available in the mid to late season. It’s a bit of a knee buster as you approach the creek. Cross the Shadow Creek footbridge and approach Shadow Lake (8,737 feet). The JMT skirts the lake on the south side, while the trail leading out to Agnew Meadow trailhead (4 miles from this juncture) skirts around its northern side.

Follow the southern shore of luscious Shadow Lake. To cool down, a quick swim is encouraged before the climb resumes. The perfectly graded switchbacks that lead up from Shadow Lake make the almost 700-foot climb much easier than most; your knees will appreciate the dirt trail, as opposed to granite boulders, and the shade of fragrant pine trees is helpful. It’s a nice steady walk up to Rosalie Lake (9,350 feet), where the trail levels briefly, allowing hikers a respite from climbing. This is a popular weekend destination from Red’s Meadow, and there are many campgrounds (and campers!) here. The climbing isn’t quite over yet, with one last hump up to shallow Gladys Lake (9,580 feet). While not that much of a climb, it can feel like it after a long day. There is camping here as well.

To continue, begin a seemingly endless downhill of more than 2,000 feet to Red’s Meadow. The dusty trail passes through pine trees, with only the occasional mountain tarns of Trinity Lakes (9,180 feet) breaking up the descent. At long last, reach the welcome junction of Johnston Meadows and Lake (8,120 feet) and enter Devils Postpile National Monument. This national monument is named for its unique and rare set of basalt columns, which rise 60 feet into the air with eerie geometric consistency. The columns resulted from the cooling and shrinking of lava flows and are thought to be less than 100,000 years old—relatively new by geological standards. For more information on the formations and day hikes in the area.

Signposts along the following segment can be confusing. Follow signs to Devils Postpile and walk through this area (with a final climb!) until reaching the junction with Red’s Meadow, where the PCT rejoins the trail. From here, there are a number of options: The first way to reach civilization is to continue straight toward Devils Postpile, veer left at the next junction, cross the bridge, and veer left again to hike out to the ranger station at Devils Postpile Campground. This is Shuttle Stop #6. A free bus runs here seasonally from 7:30 a.m. to 6:20 p.m., and it can take you to Red’s Meadow Resort (Shuttle Stop #10), a short distance from the Red’s Meadow Campground. You can also shuttle from here all the way to Mammoth Mountain Inn. See the Directions for more transit information.

Otherwise, to continue walking to Red’s Meadow, instead of veering left at the second intersection toward the ranger station, follow signs to Devils Postpile, John Muir Trail South, and Red’s Meadow, passing in front of the basalt columns to the next junction. To bypass the campground and head directly to Red’s Meadow Resort from here, turn right to follow the trail to the amenities at Red’s. For the campground, walk straight toward the road, turn left, then cross the street to follow a path into the camp. At the campground, there is a free walk-in site for backpackers on your left. It can get crowded (and even full!), but it’s usually a friendly and accommodating crowd. The highlight for most at Red’s Meadow Campground is the free hot-spring-fed showers (bathhouse). You’ll find the naturally heated showers at the top of the campground, near the restrooms. You can also just follow the slight smell of sulfur and the long line of hikers waiting with towels.

The trail to Red’s Meadow Resort and the return to the JMT is directly across from the restrooms near the showers and bathhouse. This short path to the resort is surprisingly lovely considering its proximity to the road. Look for aspens, horsetail ferns, and vibrant wildflowers scattered about the hillside rising toward the resort.

Those looking for food caches can collect them at the Red’s Meadow Resort’s general store (mid-June through mid-September; 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.), while those looking for a hot meal can step into the Mulehouse Café (mid-June through mid-September; 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.). There is also a hiker’s barrel at the back of the general store, where hikers can leave food they don’t want and scavenge for a little upgrade to their culinary assortment. It sometimes includes clothing and gear.

If you’re planning a layover day at Red’s Meadow, consider doing a day hike to Rainbow Falls and further exploring Devils Postpile National Monument. For more information.

PERMIT INFORMATION: To reserve an overnight permit originating in Yosemite, call the Yosemite Wilderness Center at (209) 372-0740 (8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Friday), or reserve online at www.yosemite.org/visitor/wild.html. You can also mail an application to Wilderness Reservations, Yosemite Association, P.O. Box 545, Yosemite, CA 95389. For any of these methods, you will need to provide the following information: your name; address; daytime phone number; number of people in the party; method of travel (foot); number of stock (if applicable); start and end dates; entry and exit trailheads (Tuolumne Meadows entry, Red’s Meadow exit); principal destination; credit-card number and expiration date, money order, or check for a nonrefundable $5-per-person processing fee.

If you haven’t reserved a permit in advance, you could also try for a walk-in permit at the Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center, located off Tioga Road in the parking lot before the Tuolumne Lodge (open seasonally 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.). About 40 percent of all permits are set aside for walk-ins, but these go quickly during the summer months.