Jeffrey Saad’s Global Kitchen: Recipes Without Borders

America is called a melting pot for a reason. Every world cuisine has touched our shores and embedded itself so deeply into our fare that, aside from apple pie and hamburgers, most of us have to stop and ask, What is American food, anyway?

A Lebanese boy raised in Chicago, I’m a culinary hybrid. I grew up a huge fan, in equal measure, of burgers and bulgur, shrimp cocktails and sfeeha. My life and my cooking have always been about transcending borders, and the recipes in this chapter reflect that sensibility, from the BLT with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Harissa Mayo to the Smoked Paprika Buttermilk Fried Chicken. They’re among my “American” favorites, inspired by my mind-tasting travels around the world.

GRILLED RADICCHIO WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR, PARMESAN, AND SEA SALT

Radicchio is one of my favorite vegetables. It’s like endive’s French or Italian cousin: beautiful, appealingly bitter, and sensational rubbed with a little bit of olive oil, grilled, and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. I love the way this bitter red green wilts, chars, and mellows on the grill in a matter of minutes. The sharp-sweet balsamic drizzle is the perfect balance with the salty, nutty cheese, creating a perfect summer side with grilled fish or chicken.

SERVES 4

2 heads Treviso or 4 heads round radicchio

1 teaspoon olive oil

½ cup balsamic vinegar

¼ teaspoon chile flakes or to taste (optional)

½ cup shaved Parmesan cheese

Pinch of sea salt

1 | Preheat a grill to high.

2 | Peel the leaves off the Treviso and lay them on a plate. Rub with the olive oil.

3 | In a saucepan over high heat, add the balsamic vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by half. (If you like spice, add a sprinkle of chile flakes to the reducing balsamic.) This concentrates the flavor and makes the vinegar sweeter and thicker. Set aside to cool.

4 | Lay the leaves on the hot grill. Monitor closely as it takes only 1 minute for them to wilt and char. Flip over and cook briefly, about another 30 seconds. Lay the leaves on a platter. Drizzle with the balsamic, spread the Parmesan over evenly, and sprinkle with a touch of sea salt. Serve immediately.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS HASH WITH TOASTED CORIANDER

Brussels sprouts get a bum rap because they’re often cooked into a bitter, boiled cabbage state (sorry, Mom!). Nothing like that here. These small veggie wonders are caramelized, sweet, and heightened by the bright citrus note of coriander. They’re like hash browns without the potatoes—a green, golden savory delight that even your kids will love. This hash makes a great appetizer or side dish—just add a couple of poached or fried eggs on top.

SERVES 4

3 cups Brussels sprouts

3 ounces pancetta or bacon, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon coriander seed, ground

1 cup thinly sliced red onions

¼ cup chicken stock

Pinch of kosher salt

1 | Cut the ends off of the Brussels sprouts and then cut the Brussels sprouts in half. Discard the end pieces and the first layer of leaves, if discolored. Shred thin.

2 | Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook for about 3 minutes, until golden. Drain off the fat and discard. Add the olive oil to the pan. Add the pepper and coriander and cook for 30 seconds to toast the spices.

3 | Add the Brussels sprouts and red onions to the pan and cook until deep golden and slightly crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken stock and salt and stir. Cook for 1 more minute. The stock will be gone, but it will leave the mixture moist but still roasted.

CUMIN-RUBBED SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH THREE-CHILE-SPICED SAUCE

The first shrimp cocktail I ate was an epiphany: such tiny objects, such big flavor! I was bowled over by those plump pink crustaceans hanging off the rim of the glass and by the mysterious red sauce in the middle, with its intense wasabi-ginger burn of horseradish and pepper. This recipe is an ode to that moment, with a Latin twist.

SERVES 4 TO 8

SAUCE

1 medium yellow onion, cut into quarters

1 jalapeño chile

1 serrano chile

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 tablespoon roughly chopped garlic

½ teaspoon finely diced orange habanero chile

2 cups tomato puree

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon agave syrup

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Pinch of ground cinnamon

SHRIMP

1 teaspoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon coriander seed

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds jumbo shrimp, tails on, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh cilantro

1 | First, prepare the sauce. Heat a grill to high or place a grill pan over high heat on the stove.

2 | Place the onion, jalapeño, and serrano chile on the grill. Grill until slightly charred, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. (You can pan-roast the onion, jalapeño, and serrano if you don’t want to grill.)

3 | Once they have cooled, cut the jalapeño and the serrano in half and remove the stems and seeds. Leave in more seeds for more heat.

4 | In a medium pot over medium heat, add the canola oil. Once the oil is hot, add the grilled onion and chiles and the garlic, habanero chile, tomato puree, soy sauce, agave syrup, vinegar, salt, and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, then turn down to low and cover. Cook for 30 minutes. Allow to cool. Once cool, puree in a blender until smooth. Chill in the refrigerator overnight.

5 | When you are ready to cook the shrimp, preheat the oven to 400°F.

6 | In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the cumin, coriander, and black pepper just until you can smell them. Pour into a bowl and allow to cool for a couple of minutes. Grind in a spice grinder or coffee grinder to a sandlike consistency.

7 | Toss the shrimp in a bowl with the spices and the canola oil to coat evenly. Lay the shrimp evenly on a sheet pan (do not crowd the shrimp or they will steam instead of browning).

8 | Place the sheet pan in the oven and cook until the shrimp turn from translucent to opaque and white. Keep in mind that they will continue to cook a little more when you remove them from the oven. Don’t hesitate to cut one open and check.

9 | Allow to cool for 15 minutes. Place in a covered container and refrigerate until very cold. Serve on a platter with the cocktail sauce in the center for dipping. You can also serve by placing 3 to 5 shrimp over the edge of a martini-style glass with the cocktail sauce in the center. Garnish with the fresh cilantro.

STEAK SALAD WITH ALMOND-BASIL DRESSING

A perfect balance of seared steak and light salad, dressed with my global kitchen version of green goddess, which is a marriage of basil and toasted almonds.

SERVES 4

¼ cup skinless slivered almonds

½ cup fresh basil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons buttermilk

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

16 cups arugula, washed and dried

1 cup Bush’s Best cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

12 ounces flank steak

Freshly ground black pepper

1 | Toast the almonds in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.

2 | In a food processor, add the almonds, basil, lemon juice, vinegar, buttermilk, ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the salt. Puree until smooth.

3 | In a large bowl, toss the arugula with ¾ cup of the pureed dressing. Taste and adjust per your taste if you like more dressing. (It’s always better to start with less dressing as you can always add more, but you can’t take it away.)

4 | Divide the arugula among four plates or heap on a platter. Spread the beans evenly across the arugula.

5 | To prepare the steak, pat it dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

6 | In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Once the oil is hot (just starts to haze), add the steak. Sear until deep golden, about 3 minutes per side. Flip the steak and cook until the internal temperature at the thickest part is 120°F (for medium-rare). Set aside to cool.

7 | Once the steak is cool, cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Place on top of the salad and serve.

FLAVOR SECRETS

Cut steak lengthwise against the grain and on a 45-degree angle. This shortens the tough muscle fibers and connective tissues and yields more tender slices of steak.

TOASTED CORIANDER CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

Chicken noodle soup is the most comforting and classic soup around. This one is perfumed with toasted ground coriander to warm your soul. You can use dark meat if you want a richer soup. Like Grandma used to make it—only better.

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

One 5-ounce skinless, boneless chicken breast (skin on optional)

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups thinly sliced yellow onions

1 cup sliced carrots (⅓ inch thick)

1 cup thickly sliced celery

1 teaspoon coriander seed, ground

2 bay leaves, finely ground

5 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

2 ounces spaghetti

Zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 | In a pot over medium heat, add the butter and olive oil.

2 | Season the chicken breast with salt and pepper and place in the middle of the pot. Add the onions, carrots, and celery around the chicken. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 6 minutes, until the chicken and veggies are golden on both sides. Add the coriander and bay leaves and stir to toast briefly. Add the chicken stock, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Remove the chicken and set on a plate to cool. If you used skin-on chicken, remove the skin now and discard. (Skin on the chicken will result in more fat/flavor as you sauté the chicken.)

3 | Add the spaghetti to the pot and cook until al dente. Turn off the heat, leaving the spaghetti in the soup. Add the lemon zest.

4 | Once it is cool, shred the chicken breast with two forks and add the meat back into the soup.

5 | Ladle the soup into four bowls. Garnish each with some of the chopped parsley.

GROVE’S BOURBON, BACON, ALLSPICE CHILI

I created this chili for the Grove restaurants in San Francisco, and it’s been a hit ever since. The cocoa, bourbon, bacon, and spices come together to create a deep, rustic, chili. For even more flavor contrasts, top it with a bit of sour cream, shredded Jack cheese, and finely chopped green onions. This chili is great for families or parties, and perfect paired with a robust red wine or a beer.

SERVES 5 TO 7

1 teaspoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

1⁄8 teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 star anise pod

½ teaspoon chile flakes

1 tablespoon mixed ground guajillo and ancho chiles or 1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon canola oil

2 ounces bacon, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon roughly chopped garlic

1 cup roughly chopped yellow onions

½ cup roughly chopped carrots

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

8 ounces ground beef (15% fat)

8 ounces ground pork

¼ cup bourbon

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1½ cups tomato puree or sauce

3 cups beef stock

One 15-ounce can Bush’s Best kidney beans, rinsed and drained

One 15-ounce can Bush’s Best pinto beans, rinsed and drained

½ teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder

Sour cream (optional)

Shredded Jack or cheddar cheese (optional)

Finely chopped green onions (optional)

1 | Put the cumin, oregano, allspice, cinnamon, star anise, chile flakes, and guajillo and ancho chiles in a spice grinder or coffee grinder and grind to a fine, sandy consistency.

2 | In a medium pot over medium heat, add the canola oil and bacon. Cook until the bacon is golden, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, onions, and carrots and cook until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the spice mixture and salt and cook for 1 minute to toast the spices.

3 | Immediately add the beef and pork and break apart into small pieces. Cook until deep golden, about 15 minutes. Make a hole in the center so you can see the bottom of the pan and add the bourbon. Stir to pick up all the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. The bourbon will disappear almost instantly. Let the mixture cook for 1 minute to burn off the alcohol.

4 | Add the tomato paste, tomato puree, beef stock, kidney beans, pinto beans, and cocoa powder and bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, then cover, turn down the heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes.

5 | Ladle the chili into bowls and serve immediately as is, or garnish with the desired amounts of sour cream, shredded Jack or cheddar cheese, and green onions.

LOBSTER POT PIE WITH FAVA BEANS, TARRAGON, AND CORIANDER BUTTER CRUST

Pot pies are the ultimate comfort food and were one of my childhood favorite dishes: tender veggies and rich broth under a flaky, buttery layer of golden pastry dough. This delicious variation on a theme has chunks of lobster, the citrus-anise perfume of tarragon, and the creamy mild green bean flavor of fava beans.

SERVES 4

One 1-pound package (2 sheets) frozen puff pastry

1 cup chopped fingerling potatoes (½-inch cubes)

1 cup shelled and skinned fava beans

1½ tablespoons olive oil

1 celery stalk, chopped

½ cup sliced carrots (⅓ inch thick)

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

½ cup finely chopped shallots

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

½ cup dry white wine

1½ quarts fish stock or vegetable stock

12 ounces cooked lobster, cut into ½-inch pieces

½ cup fresh tarragon, roughly chopped (set aside 2 tablespoons for garnish)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

2 large eggs

1 | Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2 | Pull the puff pastry out of the freezer and set on a counter.

3 | Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the cubed potatoes and cook until still slightly firm (they can easily be cut with a fork but they don’t fall apart). Drain and cool under running water to stop the cooking. Set aside.

4 | Bring a medium saucepan of water to a simmer over medium heat. Add the fava beans and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Immediately run under cold water to stop the cooking. Set aside.

5 | In a medium pot over medium heat, add the olive oil. Add the celery and carrots and cook just until soft but not browned. Add the garlic and shallots, and cook for 1 more minute. Do not brown the garlic. Remove all the veggies from the pot and set aside.

6 | Add the butter to the same pot. Once the butter is melted, whisk in the flour and cook for 30 seconds while whisking to avoid any lumps. Whisk in the white wine. Boil for 1 minute to remove most of the alcohol and concentrate the wine flavor. Add the fish stock and bring to a boil, whisking occasionally. Simmer until the liquid has a saucelike consistency. You do not want it to be watery or pasty. It should be like a creamy soup.

7 | Add the potatoes, fava beans, and cooked celery mixture to the pot and turn off the heat. Stir in the lobster, tarragon (less 2 tablespoons), and salt. The potatoes, veggies, and lobster will cook further in the oven when you are cooking them with the puff pastry on top.

8 | Ladle the filling mixture evenly into four 8-ounce ramekins or ovenproof bowls. Leave at least 1 inch of space from the top of the rim so that the puff pastry does not touch the liquid. Set the ramekins on a sheet pan so that you can easily get them in and out of the oven.

9 | Dust the puff pastry with flour and roll out to just a little thinner than it comes. (The dough should be very cold so it rises nicely in the oven.) Use the ramekins as your gauge. You want the pastry to be about 2 inches wider than the size of the ramekin. Cut each of the 2 rolled-out pieces in half on a diagonal. Gently stretch each piece of pastry over the top of a ramekin and gently press it around the edges to seal it. Allow the dough to hang over the sides a bit; trim slightly if necessary. It will yield a rustic look and some beautiful golden brown triangles of crust to tear off and dip into your filling.

10 | Whisk the eggs in a small bowl. Brush the pastry tops with the whisked eggs. Bake the pot pies in the oven for 15 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown and puffed. Place each ramekin on a plate with a liner (to avoid sliding) and garnish the tops with the remaining 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon.

SMOKED PAPRIKA BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN

Who doesn’t love fried chicken? I fell in love with this classic comfort food again while shooting the fried chicken episode for United Tastes of America on the Cooking Channel. I was lucky enough to cook chicken with the best chefs across the country. The combination of spices in this recipe yields a full-flavored chicken, and the brine makes it super moist. This chicken is best served on a bun as a sandwich or as a main course with sautéed kale.

SERVES 4

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cumin seed, ground

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

1 pound boneless (with or without skin) chicken breasts, brined (see Flavor Secrets)

1 pound boneless (with or without skin) chicken thighs, brined (see Flavor Secrets)

6 to 8 cups canola oil

2 cups buttermilk

1 | In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, cumin, pepper, and paprika. Stir with a whisk or fork to combine well. Set aside.

2 | Remove the chicken from the brine and rinse in cold water. Pat dry with a paper towel.

3 | In a fryer or deep pot over medium-high heat, add canola oil at least 6 inches deep. Heat the oil to 340°F (use a frying thermometer to check). Everything is time-sensitive and performed with very high heat, so organization is critical. While the oil is heating, arrange the following items on your countertop in order: plate with the dry chicken; bowl with the seasoned flour; bowl with the buttermilk; slotted spoon; wire cooling rack set over a sheet pan or heat-resistant platter. Make sure the oil is hot enough and everything is lined up and ready to go. It’s important that the chicken goes from the flour directly into the oil without sitting.

4 | Once the oil reaches 340°F, pick up the chicken pieces one by one. Coat each in flour and shake off the excess. Dip each into the buttermilk and allow the excess to drip off. Dredge in the flour again and shake off the excess. Once you have 4 to 5 pieces ready, carefully release the chicken into the oil. Cook pieces that are of similar size in the same batch. Cook until deep golden brown, about 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the chicken to the wire rack. Let the chicken rest. Once it is cool enough to handle, cut into a piece to make sure it’s cooked all the way through. Cooking times will vary based on the oil temperature and the size of the pieces.

5 | Serve immediately.

Sautéed Kale with Walnut Oil, Lemon Juice, and Chile Flakes

Wash 2 bunches of kale and spin dry. Remove the large stems and discard. Chop the leaves and the remaining small stems into 2-inch pieces. In a large sauté pan over high heat, add 2 tablespoons walnut oil. Once the oil is hot, add ¼ teaspoon chile flakes and the kale. Using tongs, keep the kale moving as if you were stir-frying. Add a pinch of kosher salt. Stop sautéing as soon as the kale wilts but still has body—not quite as soft as sautéed spinach. Once the kale is wilted, add 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and mix well. Transfer to a serving dish or to individual side-dish plates. Using a Microplane or grater, zest 1 lemon over the top for a little golden color and a citrus bite. Serve immediately.

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON-ROASTED TOMATOES

The tarragon makes this dish French, the orzo makes it Italian, and chicken makes it a tasty family classic. I love orzo because it eats like rice but it has the body of a pasta or risotto. (In fact, whatever you can do with risotto, you can do with orzo.)

SERVES 4

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

2 cups cherry tomatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for rubbing

Pinch of chile flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup fresh tarragon

½ cup orzo

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 | Preheat a grill to medium-high.

2 | Place the chicken breasts one at a time in a large plastic bag or inside a large folded piece of plastic wrap. Using a food mallet or the bottom of a sauté pan, pound the chicken firmly and evenly to ⅓-inch thickness, being careful not to tear the meat. Set aside.

3 | Rinse the tomatoes and pull off their stems. Pat dry with a paper towel. Take a large piece of aluminum foil and double it over with the shiny side up. Place the whole tomatoes in the center. Pour the olive oil evenly over them. Add the chile flakes and season with salt and pepper. Pull the tarragon leaves off the stems and place on the tomatoes. Close up the foil to create a pouch. Place the pouch of tomatoes on the hot side of the grill.

4 | Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper and rub with a touch of olive oil. Cook on the hot side of the grill until you have nice grill marks, about 2 minutes. Rotate the chicken breasts 45 degrees and grill them until you have another set of grill marks, about 2 minutes. You will have that nice grill mark pattern. Flip over the chicken breasts and move them to the cool side of grill. Grill for about 2 minutes. When you touch the chicken breasts and they have a little give, they are done. If they feel very spongy, they are still undercooked. If they feel hard, they are hockey pucks. Remove from the grill and cover with aluminum foil. Let rest for 5 minutes.

5 | While the chicken is grilling, prepare the orzo. Bring a medium pot of water with 2 teaspoons salt to a boil. Add the orzo and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes (taste for doneness). Remove the pot from the heat. Drain the orzo and return it to the pot. Stir in the Parmesan and butter.

6 | Spoon the orzo evenly on a large platter. Lay the chicken breasts across the orzo. Pour the roasted cherry tomatoes over the chicken. Serve immediately.

BLT WITH OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES AND HARISSA MAYO

The great American BLT is amped up with the flavors of North Africa and the sweet, sharp flavor of oven-dried tomatoes. There is so much going on in this sandwich: The process of oven drying transforms even the blandest tomato by concentrating flavors and intensifying both sweetness and acidity. The intensity comes together with the spiciness of the harissa; the smoky, salty flavor of bacon; and the crisp flourish of lettuce. One bite and you’ll want to make ten more of these delicious sandwiches.

SERVES 4

3 ripe large Roma tomatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, toasted and roughly ground

Kosher salt

12 slices thick-cut high-quality bacon

8 slices thick-cut rustic bread

⅓ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons harissa

8 romaine lettuce leaves

1 | Preheat the oven to 275°F.

2 | Slice the tomatoes ½ inch thick.

3 | On a nonreactive sheet pan or in a large glass baking dish, pour the olive oil. Sprinkle with the caraway seeds and a touch of salt. Place the tomatoes in the oil and stir to coat. Spread them out evenly on the pan or in the dish. Place in the oven and bake for about 3 hours, or until they are about one-third of their original thickness. This creates a reduction by eliminating water and concentrating the sugars and essential tomato flavor. Some tomatoes will be slightly golden and others, which are toward the edges of the pan, may be slightly charred. Set aside to cool. (You can do a large batch of these several days ahead of time and keep them covered in the refrigerator. They are great for pasta sauces and sandwiches of any kind.)

4 | Preheat the oven to 400°F.

5 | Lay the bacon on a sheet pan and place in the oven. Cook the bacon to the desired doneness and remove from the oven. Drain on a paper towel.

6 | Toast the bread to golden.

7 | In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise and harissa. Spread 1 tablespoon of the harissa mayo on each slice of bread. On 4 of the slices, divide the bacon up evenly on the bread, then add the romaine, then the tomatoes. Place the other slice of bread on top. Cut the sandwiches in half and serve.