MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS SHREDDED CONFIT
In the first year of the restaurant, when creativity and chaos often came together like Siamese twins, a talented French-trained American chef named Rachel Gardner briefly worked at China Moon and introduced me to confit-making, the process of cooking and preserving duck in its own fat, a grand tradition in France. Someday when the restaurant is behind me and I’ve retired to the peace of a scholar’s nook, I’d love to explore the likelihood that the process originated in China. In the meantime, however, here is a dish to be savored on account of its deliciousness, with any spurious claims to authenticity aside!
Finding a quart and a half of duck fat seems a daunting task for a new cook. Never fear! A trip to a Chinatown poultry market or a call to any fresh poultry shop should net you the desired fat sacs, plucked from beneath the tails of a dozen obliging ducks. (If that fails, call the chef of your nearest friendly fresh-food restaurant and ask for a source for fresh duck fat.)
Rendering the fat sacs is easy. The Western way is to put them in a heavy casserole with an equal amount of water and simmer the mixture, uncovered, until the water evaporates, the fat melts, and the tissue turns to cracklings. The fat this yields is a deep gold; take care not to burn it. The Chinese method is to steam the fat in a bowl over high heat, pausing every half hour or so to drain the rendered fat. This is a slower, less dramatic process, with no danger of scorching. The fat it produces is a pale gold with a lack of roasted flavor.
2 to 3 teaspoons Roasted Szechwan Pepper-Salt (page 5)
2 pounds (about 4) fresh, fat duck legs with thighs attached
6 to 7 cups freshly rendered duck fat (see Rendering Duck Fat, facing page)
CONFIT SEASONINGS:
1 small head garlic, smashed
Finely pared zest of ½ scrubbed orange
1½ star anise, broken into its 12 points
8 quarter-size coins fresh ginger, smashed
¼ teaspoon whole coriander or fennel seeds, crushed (optional)
4 scallions, cut into 1-inch nuggets and smashed
1. Sprinkle the pepper-salt evenly over the duck legs, massaging it well into the skin. Seal airtight and marinate for several hours at cool room temperature or refrigerate overnight. Let come to room temperature before cooking.
2. Heat a wok or large heavy casserole over moderate heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 2 tablespoons of the duck fat and swirl to glaze the bottom. When the duck fat is hot enough to sizzle a duck leg, add the duck legs in a single layer and brown on both sides. Adjust the heat so the skin browns without scorching and drizzle in a bit more fat if it is needed. Remove the pot from the heat and carefully drain off any burnt fat.
3. Return the pot and the seared duck legs to moderate heat. Add the duck fat and the confit seasonings. Nudge the legs from the bottom while the mixture comes to a gentle simmer, then adjust the heat so the fat doesn’t boil. Simmer uncovered until the duck is very tender at its thickest part and almost falling from the bone, about 40 minutes.
4. Use tongs to carefully transfer the legs to a shallow, heatproof container. Let the fat cool until tepid, about 30 minutes, then carefully strain it over the duck legs. Discard the solids (excepting any ducky nuggets, which are spoils for the cook). Arrange the duck so it is totally submerged. Carefully transfer the container, still uncovered, to the refrigerator. Once the fat congeals, the container may be sealed.
5. Store the confit for 1 day to 2 weeks before using. Its flavor (surprisingly) will not change.
6. To serve, warm the container over low heat or in a slow oven until the fat turns liquid, then remove the legs. Strip the legs of skin, then pull the meat from the bone in chunky shreds. Discard the skin, bones, and any cartilage. The meat is most savory just plucked from the warm fat. It may, however, be refrigerated after shredding. Let come to room temperature before using; or, rewarm in a low oven for an extra bit of savor. Taste the newly picked shreds; depending on use, you may wish to accent them with a sprinkle more of pepper-salt.
7. The seasoned duck fat may be frozen indefinitely. Strain through several layers of dry cheesecloth to trap excess pepper-salt, then seal and freeze for your next batch of confit. On the second go-around, you don’t need to season the duck fat, but you will need to add about 2 more cups of freshly rendered duck fat to the pot in order to cover the same amount of duck legs.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Served at room temperature, the confit is excellent tossed in a green salad dressed with Orange Vinaigrette (page 25). It makes a fine embellishment for Paris Salad (page 444) and is also wonderful on an antipasto plate served with a tangle of baby greens, Wok-Seared New Potatoes (page 424), and a hill of Ginger-Pickled Red Cabbage Slaw (page 61). For inclusion in a hot dish, see Duck Confit Sandpot (recipe follows) and Stir-Fried Duck Confit and Broad Noodles in Spicy Orange Sauce (page 174).