MAKES ABOUT 40 SPRINGROLLS
In our search for an ever-expansive array of springrolls to offer our customers, a “veggie” springroll was worked on and worked on and worked on. Some were too blah, some were too mushy, but these are just right. Beefed up (forgive the expression) with peanut butter and roasted peanuts, they have a richness that delights even the carnivores among us.
Sophisticated veggie types might like to stir a cup or more of minced curried gluten, tempeh, or some such protein-laden ingredient into the filling mix. Beans or ancient grains might also be tasty, though these are ideas I have chewed on only thoughtfully.
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
½ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
3 small green serrano chilis, finely minced
1 to 2 small red Fresno chilis, finely minced
SEASONINGS:
2½ tablespoons kosher salt
2½ tablespoons sugar
⅔ cup unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
⅓ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk
1 teaspoon “goop” from China Moon Chili-Orange Oil (page 15)
3 tablespoons unseasoned peanut butter (page 32)
2 tablespoons strong tamarind liquid (page 336)
4 to 5 cups corn or peanut oil, for stir-frying and deep-frying
2 cups diced yellow onions
1½ cups diced celery
1½ cups finely shredded carrots
6 cups diced Napa cabbage
¼ cup dried tree ears, soaked in 2 cups water until softened, rinsed well, and chopped
8 to 10 large Chinese dried black mushrooms, soaked until soft, stemmed, and minced
1 cup raw skinless peanuts, roasted (page 35) and coarsely chopped
¼ pound (2 small skeins) glass noodles, soaked in hot water until translucent and cut into 2-inch lengths (see Smush Note)
2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons cold vegetable stock or water
About 40 very thin 7- to 8-inch-square springroll wrappers
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh coriander leaves and stems
1 egg yolk, beaten
Green Chili Dipping Sauce (page 26), Pickled Ginger Dipping Sauce (page 28), Peanut-Lime Dipping Sauce (page 28), or Ten-Spice Honey Dip (page 27)
Coriander sprigs and/or scallion brushes, for garnish
The veggie springroll code was finally cracked when someone (who? give that person a raise!) came up with the notion of using fat glass noodles. These are 3 to 4 times the thickness of the typical, delicate glass noodles, and they solved the smush problem straightaway. The brand we use is NICE. They are sold in skeins packaged in cellophane alongside their other dry noodle cousins.
If you can’t find them, simply use skinny glass noodles, and settle in for a softer texture.
1. To make the filling: Combine the aromatics in a small dish and seal until ready to use.
2. Combine the seasonings in a small bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.
3. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until a bead of water evaporates on contact. Add 3 tablespoons of the oil, swirl to glaze the pan, and reduce the heat to moderate. When the oil is hot enough to foam a pinch of ginger, add the aromatics. Stir gently until the oil is well infused, about 2 minutes, adjusting the heat so the aromatics foam slowly without browning. Add the onions and toss until transparent and golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the celery and carrots, toss, and let stew for 4 minutes. Add the cabbage, tree ears, and mushrooms. Toss and let stew until the cabbage is translucent and juicy, 4 to 5 minutes more. Adjust the heat so the vegetables sizzle slowly and cook down. You want them to give up their juices (they’ll be more or less willing depending on the season and their own water content), so don’t rush them.
4. Add the peanuts and drained noodles, and toss to mix. Stir the seasonings and add them to the pan. Toss well to combine. When the contents of the pan are very hot to the touch, quickly combine the cornstarch and the cold stock or water to dissolve it. Scrape it into the pan, looped over the hot filling, in a thin, even stream. Stir until the filling turns very thick, heavy, and glossy, a full 4 to 5 minutes. Nibble a bit to be sure it leaves no floury aftertaste on the roof of your mouth, indicating that the cornstarch is cooked through.
5. Spread the filling in a thin layer on 1 or 2 large platters or a jelly roll pan. Refrigerate, uncovered, until thoroughly cool. Once cool, stir; taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. The flavor should be keen and spicy with a nice edge of tartness. If needed, adjust with an extra shot of vinegar. At this point, the filling can be sealed and refrigerated for up to 2 days before rolling. Stir before using; roll while still cold.
6. To wrap, fry, and serve the springrolls, follow steps 8 through 10 on pages 335 and 336.
For fullest flavor and plushest texture, soak Chinese dried black mushrooms overnight in cold water to cover. The hot water soak is fast, but the mushrooms never taste as fine.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: Perverse as it is, I think of pairing these springrolls with something nice and meaty, like one of our cold lamb, pork, or beef antipasti, or a fine piece of fish taken hot from the steamer or grill. For a suggestion truer to the spirit of vegetarian eating, a warm or cold salad of boiled new potatoes and interesting greens, or a light pasta trimmed with seasonal vegetables and herbs, would be a good match.