MAKES ABOUT 24 BUNS
Onions, mushrooms, and oyster sauce are made for each other; the marriage is happily consummated in these yummy baked buns. It is a very simple, flexible filling, one that can be dressed down with humble button mushrooms or made exotic with the addition of wild mushrooms.
Both the filling and dough can be made a day or more in advance; the buns can be baked in advance as well. They rewarm nicely, making them a good choice for a party or for fueling a busy week.
Basic Bun Dough (page 363)
AROMATICS:
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons finely minced garlic
SEASONINGS:
¼ cup Vegetable Infusion (page 82), China Moon Infusion (page 72), or unsalted vegetable or chicken stock
⅓ cup oyster sauce
3 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce
2 tablespoons Serrano-Lemongrass Vinegar (page 19) or unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
2½ tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
3 to 4 tablespoons corn or peanut oil, for stir-frying
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2 shallots, minced
2 pounds domestic or wild mushrooms, very thinly sliced
½ cup finely chopped Chinese chives
1½ cups thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
3 tablespoons cornstarch
5 tablespoons cold vegetable or chicken stock or water
The texture of this mushroom filling when properly cooked should be, in the words of my great friend and former sous-chef Barbara Haimes, “a near approximation to library glue.” Any filling to be put inside a bun or springroll needs to be sufficiently thick so as not to leak. A fresh mushroom filling, which grows extra juicy upon reheating, is especially in need of binding—or, should I say, straight-jacketing.
1. Make the bun dough as detailed in steps 1 through 3 on page 364.
2. Combine the aromatics in a small dish. Cover until ready to use.
3. Combine the seasonings in a small bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.
4. Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 2½ tablespoons of the oil, swirl to glaze the pan, and reduce the heat to moderate. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a bit of minced ginger, add the aromatics. Stir gently until fully fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds, adjusting the heat so they foam without browning. Add the onion and shallots, and toss until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and toss until they begin to give up their liquid, about 2 minutes more. Adjust the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking. Add the chives and half of the scallion rings, and toss to mix. Stir the seasonings and add them to the pan. Toss until the mixture is very hot and the liquids come to a simmer.
5. Quickly blend the cornstarch and the stock or water until smooth, then add it to the pan in a thin stream looped over the filling. Stir until the mixture is thick, heavy, and glossy, and a dab cooled briefly and then chewed leaves no floury taste on the roof of your mouth, about 5 minutes. Fold in the remaining scallion rings. Spread the filling in a thin layer on 2 large platters or a jelly roll pan. Refrigerate, uncovered, until thoroughly cold. Once cool, taste; add a dash more of this or that if needed. The cold filling may be sealed and refrigerated for a day or two before using.
6. Shape and bake the buns as detailed in steps 4 through 7 on page 365. Serve them hot.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: I particularly like these buns with a tangle of Sweet and Tangy Red Onion Pickle (page 47) and a bowl of most any of our soups. For a Western companion, a roasted or braised poultry dish would be delicious.
