Empanada Emporium

Empanadas are a very popular street food because they’re easy to tote. Every day millions of people buy little handheld pies on the streets of Latin America and then go on with their business. Many people buy them by the dozen to take home. Empanar means “to encase in bread,” and there are all sorts of ingredients used to surround the many flavorful fillings of empanadas. Among the casings, you’ll find puff pastry, butter pastry, bread dough, masa, precooked cornmeal, mashed tubers, and plantain dough.

Methods for cooking empanadas are also varied; some are baked, others are grilled, and yet others are fried. Although most empanadas are shaped like half-moons, some resemble miniature pies and others are triangular. Some are large enough to make an entire meal, but most are snack size. Some are paired with succulent sauces, usually housed in squirt bottles lined up at one end of an empanada kiosk. To me, there is nothing better than biting into a perfectly crisp empanada, exposing a savory filling, and squirting a bit of hot sauce on it.

What fascinates me most about empanadas is that each variation is a window into the culinary influences that have shaped local cuisines. In Buenos Aires, for example, you’ll find Middle Eastern influences on the empanadas stuffed with beef, olives, and raisins, and Italian influences on those filled with ricotta and Swiss chard. You can also taste the Spanish influence on those stuffed with quince, and the French and Guaraní influences on those filled with corn and béchamel, called empanadas de choclo. And that’s just a sample of what is served in a single Argentinean city. Imagine the scope of the offerings across Latin America. The possibilities are endless.

In fact, there are so many fillings for empanadas that they boggle the mind. Some of the most recognizable classics include chorizo, beef, beans, seafood, vegetables, or cheese. However, street vendors are always at the vanguard, creating new versions every day. In Peru, for instance, the latest rage is empanadas filled with lomo saltado—stir-fried beef, onions, tomatoes, and potatoes. And modern interpretations of empanadas in Argentina, are stuffed with blue cheese and walnuts. In Mexico, you’ll find them filled with squash blossoms and requesón (a ricotta-like cheese), and in Central America you’ll find empanadas encased in dough made entirely of yuca. Some empanadas have dry fillings, while others are so soupy that they drip down to your elbows when you bite into them. Some are savory and some are sweet, but since Latin Americans often combine elements of both flavors, you’ll find those, too—for example, Guatemalans are known for their pork and raisin empanadas and the Ecuadorians are known for their onion and cheese empanadas that are first fried and then rolled in sugar; they’re so light that they’re called empanadas de viento (air). The collection of strictly sweet fillings for empanadas is also never-ending, and includes fruit pastes, nuts, chocolate, milk custards, caramelized milk, or chopped fruits. When it comes to empanadas, there is something for every taste.

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A woman makes empanadas on a street in Ilobasco, El Salvador.

The most difficult empanada dough to master is the one that must be cut while the pastry is still warm. With this in mind, I developed two different master recipes that will help you out. Each will walk you through every step so you can make beautiful empanadas. Some empanadas can be sealed with egg wash, while others require the pinch and fold method called repulgue, which seals them with ropelike edges (see page 218). The technique can be frustrating at first, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be folding and pinching in no time. My daughters and I love to spend afternoons shaping empanadas by the dozens and talking our hearts out. Of course, you can buy empanada disks in the frozen section of many stores (see “Sources for Ingredients”) and crimp their edges tightly with the tines of a fork.

A long time ago, I created a recipe for a simple butter-based pastry for my novice students (see Speedy Pastry for Empanadas, page 216). I always use this one whenever I want to make empanadas on a whim and don’t have a lot of time. Made with the aid of a food processor, it can be used with any of the empanada fillings in this chapter.

I selected a group of empanadas that covers the range of flavors that you’ll find in Latin America: sweet, savory, fried, and baked. I also showcase many different kinds of casings and a great variety of succulent fillings. I hope you’ll find the tips I share on how to freeze and store them for later helpful, so you can shape them one day and enjoy them for many more.

I teach cooking classes on many subjects, sometimes to dozens of students at a time, but by far my favorite classes are the more intimate ones where I can demonstrate new techniques and then invite my students to practice them with me. There is nothing I find more rewarding than to see them at their individual moments of epiphany and to watch them first master the proper way to make a recipe. Some of my most requested hands-on cooking classes are on the subject of empanadas.

Once when I had to give a presentation for a crowd, I had to shape hundreds of empanadas in a matter of two hours so that they could be served during class. None of my cooking assistants that day had ever made an empanada. Armed with the tips that I share with you here, we filled, shaped, and cooked over five hundred of them. People say hindsight is twenty-twenty. Looking back, I should have just hired them all and started a business. Luckily, you likely won’t ever find yourself in that predicament, but with my tips and secrets you, too, will master the art of the empanada.

Master Dough for South American Empanadas

This dough is truly in a category of its own. When baked, it develops a tender breadlike texture that’s thicker than pastry, but when it’s fried, it’s transformed into crispy and flaky dough. It’s the traditional casing for empanadas in Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, and Bolivia. If you can make pie dough, you’ll have no trouble making this. The one difference—and it is a big difference—is that while pastry for pie needs to remain cold, this one, made with hot water, must be kept warm until cut. This dough cannot be rerolled, so make sure to cut out as many rounds as possible from each rolled-out piece. Once it’s been cut, the disks can cool to room temperature and even be refrigerated for later use (see note). I learned to make this dough from an Argentinean woman I met years ago, and although she never gave me a set recipe—her style was to add a pinch here and another there—I’ve taken her tips and secrets to heart. I share them with you here.

Makes 24 empanada disks

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the flour, salt, and baking powder; pulse to combine. Add the shortening and butter; pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand, about 1 minute. Add the egg. Gradually add the water through the feed tube, pulsing for 5-second intervals, until the dough holds together and begins to form a ball (you may not need all the water). Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and knead until smooth, about 1 minute. Cover it with a clean towel and let it rest for 15 minutes. The dough should be rolled out while still slightly warm to the touch.

Working with a third of the dough at a time (keeping the rest covered), roll it out to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 4 1/4-inch cutter, cut out rounds; repeat with the remaining dough. You should end up with 24 rounds. Fill and seal using the repulgue method (page 218) and bake as directed in each recipe.

NOTE: If you’re filling the dough within the hour, the disks can be kept at room temperature, covered. If you aren’t, keep them covered and refrigerated (for up to 4 hours). This dough is best made fresh each time. Since, generally, the fillings should be chilled before using, it’s best if you have the filling made before making the dough. I recommend starting the dough 1 hour before you intend to fill and bake the empanadas.

Pastry Dough for Salteñas

This pastry has a vibrant, orange hue and the texture of bread dough. Use it for the Bolivian empanadas, or salteñas, on page 221. The technique used to make this dough is similar to that used for the pastry for the South American Empanadas, but this one allows you to knead scraps back together after cutting it and reroll. It’s painted orange with annatto and contains a touch of sugar. At first, the dough can be a bit tricky to handle. As you roll it, sprinkle a generous amount of flour to the working surface so that the moist dough—which tends to break when it’s first rolled—can absorb it a little bit at a time. Each time you roll it, add more flour to your work surface. How much flour is required will depend on how much humidity is in the air and on how deft you are at handling the dough. Beginners may need a bit more flour than advanced bakers will. It may seem counterintuitive to make the dough so moist at first, but it’s important to start it that way so that by the time the rolling and cutting are finished, you haven’t made the dough too tough to work with by adding too much flour. Made this way, the dough will cut easily and the disks will stretch well without tearing when filled. This dough is best made fresh each time. Always chill the filling for the salteñas thoroughly before you make this dough.

Makes 24–26 (4 1/2-inch) salteña disks

In a small bowl, combine the annatto with 2 tablespoons of boiling water. Stir, breaking up the annatto, until smooth; set aside to cool.

In a bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine 4 cups of the flour (reserve the rest for when you roll the dough), salt, and baking powder; pulse to combine. Add the shortening and butter; pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand, about 1 minute. Add the sugar and pulse until combined, about 20 seconds. Stir the egg into the annatto, add it through the feed tube, and begin adding the water, one tablespoon at a time, pulsing for 5-second intervals, until the dough holds together (you may not need all the water). Turn the dough onto a clean, generously floured surface and knead it until smooth, about 2 minutes, adding more of the reserved flour to the surface so the dough doesn’t stick. Cover the dough with a clean towel and let it rest for 15 minutes.

Flour the work surface well and flour a rolling pin. Working with a third of the dough at a time (keeping the rest covered), roll it out to 1/8-inch thickness. If the edges break, use the side of your hand to press them back together. Using a 4 1/4-inch cutter, cut out rounds (knead the scraps together and let them rest, covered, for 10 minutes before rolling them out again). Keeping the rounds covered, repeat with the rest of the dough, cutting a total of 24–26 rounds. If you’re filling the dough within the hour, the rounds can be kept at room temperature, covered. They can also be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 4 hours before using them. Fill the salteñas as directed.

Pasta Frolla

This egg-based pastry is used in countries like Argentina, Uruguay, Bolivia, Chile and Brazil. I love it because it’s easy to work with and rerolls easily. It’s the base for my Brazilian Hearts of Palm Pies (page 224) and Miniature Quince Empanadas (page 235), but any filling works. I make this in bulk (always one recipe at a time) and freeze it to have it on hand when I need it.

Makes dough for 12 Brazilian empadas, 40 empanadinhas, or 1 recipe for empanadas

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the flour, sugar, and salt; pulse for 20 seconds. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Add the vinegar and pulse for 10 seconds. Add the egg yolks, and gradually add the iced water through the feed tube, pulsing for 5-second intervals between additions, until the dough begins to hold together, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Press some of the dough between your fingers; if it holds together, it’s ready. If it doesn’t, add a bit more water and pulse for a few more seconds. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and divide it in half. Press each half into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap; chill for at least 30 minutes (or up to overnight).

NOTE: The dough can also be frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw it in the refrigerator overnight. For easier rolling, let it sit at room temperature for 20–25 minutes.

Speedy Pastry for Empanadas

This is the easy pastry I reach for when I don’t have time to make the others in this book. It works with savory and sweet flavors and bakes to flaky and golden perfection. Empanadas using this pastry can be shaped, frozen, and then baked to order. The one thing you can’t do with this pastry, however, is fry it. You’ll need to make a double batch for the empanada recipes here, or you’ll have leftover filling. When my girls were little, I’d fill rounds of this pastry with ham and cheese so that when their friends came over, I could quickly bake a batch of mess-free, portable goodies. Try it with the picadillo on page 288 and the chorizo and potato filling for the sopes on page 65.

Makes 40 small or 30 medium empanada disks

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the flour and salt; pulse for 20 seconds. Add the butter and pulse for 5-second intervals until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Add the vinegar and pulse for 10 seconds. Gradually add the iced water through the feed tube, pulsing for 5-second intervals between additions, until the dough begins to hold together. Press some of the dough between your fingers; if it holds together, it’s ready. If it doesn’t, add a bit more water and pulse for a few more seconds. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and divide it in half. Press each half into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap; chill for at least 30 minutes (or up to overnight) or freeze for up to 2 months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight; roll, cut, fill, and bake.

South American Beef Empanadas (Empanaditas de Pino)

You’ll find many versions of pastry succulently filled with raisin and olive-laced beef in South America. This is the recipe I developed over a decade ago for my cooking classes, and to date, it’s still one of the most requested by my cooking students. The resulting pastry pockets are savory and sweet at the same time. In Chile, the beef is traditionally minced by hand, but good-quality ground beef works just as well. Make the filling at least two hours before shaping the empanadas, and chill it thoroughly. Since the dough must be shaped while it’s still warm, plan on making it one hour before filling the empanadas. Don’t drain the ground beef after browning it; the fat in the recipe helps keep the filling moist as the empanadas bake. The baked empanadas can be frozen and stored for up to 4 months. Freeze them in a single layer until solid and then transfer to freezer-safe containers or zip-top bags. Reheat them in a 350°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes.

Makes 24 empanadas

In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the beef, cumin, oregano, and cayenne; cook until the meat is evenly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the raisins and olives and season with salt and pepper. Stir well; reduce the heat to low and cook for 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it cool for 30 minutes; stir in the chopped egg, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or up to overnight).

One hour before baking the empanadas, make the dough. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Working with a third of the dough at a time (keeping the rest covered), roll it out to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 4 1/4-inch cutter, cut out 8 disks; repeat with the remaining dough (you’ll have 24 disks, total).

Place 2 tablespoons of the filling in the middle of each disk. Bring the edges of the pastry together to enclose the filling, forming a half-moon shape; pinch or press the cut edges together tightly to seal. Stretch out the edges to form a 1/2-inch rim; pinch and fold the rim to seal using the repulgue method to create a ropelike design (see note). Place the empanadas on the prepared pans; brush the tops with the egg wash. Bake until golden, about 30–35 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

NOTE: The repulgue method: Deft hands can shape the edges of the dough to resemble ropes by folding and pinching the seams over each other. This is called the repulgue method because the thumb, or pulgar, leads the action. Depending on what dough you use, the instructions will call for you to either press the dough into a rim, or stretch it into a rim. Cradle the empanada in one hand. Starting at one corner of the empanada, use your thumb and index finger to fold a tiny triangle of dough on the sealed edge. Fold it over itself and pinch it tightly. Fold down a small piece of the edge again, overlapping slightly on the first fold and roll and pinch it tightly. Repeat this rolling and pinching of small pieces all along the edge, and soon you’ll see a ropelike design taking shape. The smaller the sections you pinch, the more detailed the rope design will be. If your edges look more like crimped pie dough than ropes, you’re leaving too much space between sections; the pinches should overlap slightly.

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South American Beef Empanadas (Empanaditas de Pino)

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Bolivian Chicken Empanadas (Salteñas de Pollo Bolivianas)

Bolivian Chicken Empanadas (Salteñas de Pollo Bolivianas)

In Bolivia, there’s a festival that celebrates these empanadas, called Feria de las Salteñas, where vendors compete for the coveted title of best salteña baker. The sweet dough is tinted with annatto—which Bolivians call urucú—until it’s a very bright orange, and the filling is made with aromatic chicken stew. Salteñas have flat bottoms; they’re plump and hold a lot of filling. A great salteña is judged not only by the way it tastes but also by the color of its crimped rims, which should develop a dark-brown, almost black hue as it bakes. The filling must always remain moist. Some cooks fill them with beef and chiles, while others add olives and hard-boiled eggs, but a true salteña always includes minced potatoes. At first, it may be hard to use up all of the filling in this recipe—the dough truly stretches out enough to use it all—but with practice, you’ll succeed. Chilling these salteñas before baking them will help them keep their shape. A salteña is supposed to be very large—a meal in and of itself—but these are about half the size and easier to eat. Bolivians eat them with hot sauce and a squirt of lime.

Makes 24–26 salteñas

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook until softened, about 3–4 minutes; add the annatto and 2 cups of the broth, breaking up the annatto until dissolved. Add the potatoes, chicken, peas, bay leaf, thyme, cumin, and parsley; bring the liquid to a boil and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. (It should still be a bit moist. If the potatoes haven’t cooked through, add the remaining broth and cook until they are.) Season with salt and pepper; cool, cover, and chill until ready to use (chilling will solidify moist filling, making it easier to fill the empanadas; the filling will become moist again as it bakes inside the pastry).

Place 1–1 1/2 heaping tablespoons of the filling in the middle of the prepared pastry disks; bring the edges of the pastry together to enclose the filling (it will help to press the filling down with your forefinger to compact it). Form a half moon and stand the salteña on its bottom, flattening it so it can stand without toppling. Pinch the edges tightly, and press to form a small rim, about 1/4-inch wide. Then, with your fingers, pinch and fold the rim decoratively, making pleats (as you would a dumpling or a piecrust). Stand the salteñas on the prepared pans and chill them for at least 20 minutes (up to 2 hours).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the salteñas with the egg wash. Bake until golden, about 30–35 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

NOTE: The baked salteñas can be stored frozen for up to 4 months. Freeze them in a single layer until solid and then transfer to freezer-safe containers or zip-top bags. Reheat them in a 350°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes. Leftover filling can be heated and enjoyed as is.

Tuna Empanadas (Empanadas de Atún)

There are few things I love to do more than to curl up on a sofa with a blanket, a great book, and a delicious snack. Sometimes the book is so good that I don’t want to put it down. On these occasions, a handheld empanada is the perfect snack because I can eat with one hand and hold my book with the other. In this version, breadlike pastry surrounds a filling made with tuna, sofrito, and potatoes in my rendition of an Argentinean fish hand pie. South Americans often mix fish and potatoes, and the combination is actually quite exquisite. Sofrito is a Latin American flavor base made with cooked onions, bell peppers, and oil. Some countries add other ingredients to sofrito, such as tomatoes, garlic, or annatto. In Argentina, it’s not unusual to find sofrito studded with herbs and spices. Here, oregano adds a very Mediterranean flair to these empanadas. Make a batch of these and freeze them so that the next time you’re reading a book you just can’t put down, you’ll be prepared! Make the dough one hour before filling the empanadas.

Makes 24–26 empanadas

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, peppers, and tomatoes and cook until softened, about 2–3 minutes. Add the potatoes, oregano, and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the potatoes are tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 8–10 minutes (if the potatoes are not yet fork-tender at this point, add 1/2 cup more water and continue to cook until they are). Remove from heat. Stir in the tuna and parsley; season with salt and pepper. Cool slightly; cover and chill for at least 30 minutes (up to overnight).

Preheat the oven to 350°F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Add the hard-boiled eggs to the filling. Place 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of the prepared disks. Bring the edges of the pastry together, enclosing the filling to form a half-moon shape; pinch the edges tightly to seal. Stretch out the edges to form a 1/2-inch rim; pinch and fold the rim to seal (see note on the repulgue method on page 218). Place the empanadas on the prepared pans; brush the tops with egg wash. Bake until golden, about 30–35 minutes; serve hot or at room temperature.

NOTE: The baked empanadas can be frozen for up to 4 months. Freeze them in a single layer on baking sheets until solid and transfer to freezer bins or zip-top bags. To reheat, bake at 350°F for 15–20 minutes or until hot.

Hearts of Palm Pies (Empadas de Palmito)

Miniature handheld pies like these are called empadas in Brazil. Smaller versions are known as empanadinhas. The vegetarian filling is a bit tangy, very creamy, and absolutely addictive. Unlike most of the empanadas found in the rest of Latin America, which are folded into half-moons, these are round or oval and look like miniature pies. Sometimes they’re intricately decorated with designs made with pastry remnants. Brazilians use special molds to make these small pies, but I use my nonstick muffin tins instead (they’re a bit tricky to unmold, but they work). For appetizer-sized empanadinhas, you can use mini-muffin tins (see note), but I like to use the standard-size ones and serve these at luncheons with crispy green salad that’s been scantily dressed with lemon juice and olive oil.

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Assorted Hearts of Palm Pies (Empadas de Palmito)

Makes 16 empadas or 40 empanadinhas

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat; add the onions and cook until soft, about 3–4 minutes, stirring often so they don’t brown. Add the flour and whisk well; cook for 1–2 minutes, being careful not to let it take any color. Remove the pan from the heat and add all the milk, whisking well. Return the pan to the heat and continue cooking, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes, or until it’s the consistency of mashed potatoes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the hearts of palm, tomatoes, and olives. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour (or up to overnight).

Remove the pastry dough from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for 15–20 minutes so that it’s easy to roll. Roll it out until it is about 1/8 inch thick (like you would a piecrust); cut out 16 (4 1/2-inch) circles, and 16 (3-inch) circles, kneading the scraps together and rerolling the dough as needed.

Press the large circles into a standard-sized muffin tin, leaving a bit of overhang. Divide the filling among the tins (not quite 1/3 cup each). Top the filling with the small pastry circles and pinch the edges of the pastry together to seal the crust. (If desired, reroll the dough scraps and cut them into decorative shapes—like leaves—and attach them to the tops of the pies using the prepared egg wash.) Brush the tops of the pies with egg wash and chill them for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the empadas for 25–30 minutes or until the tops are golden. Cool in the tins for 5 minutes; turn onto cooling racks and serve warm.

After baking, the empadas can be frozen for up to 4 months. Freeze them in a single layer on baking sheets until solid and transfer them to freezer bins or zip-top bags. Bake them at 400°F for 10-20 minutes (depending on their size) or until hot.

NOTE: For mini-muffin tins, you’ll have a bit of leftover filling; use 2-inch and 2 1/2-inch cutters and 1 heaping teaspoon of the filling. Bake for 22–25 minutes.

Fried Tomato, Basil, and Mozzarella Empanadas (Empanadas Caprese)

In Argentina, empanadas are sometimes baked and sometimes fried. Flaky pastry pockets like these filled with melted goodness can be purchased in brown paper bags, straight out of the fryer. The filling is a classic, and it’s not surprising to find plenty of Italian-inspired foods on the streets of Argentina. During the twentieth century, a large number of Italian immigrants descended upon this South American country, changing its culinary landscape for good. These empanadas are a little bit like calzones—but with a twist. Here, the same Master Dough for South American Empanadas that bakes so beautifully with a breadlike texture turns flaky and puffy when fried. You won’t believe it’s the same dough! Blanching and shocking the basil before it’s added to the filling helps it stay vibrantly green. Learn how to pinch and roll the edges of these empanadas (see note on the repulgue method on page 218) to ensure that they are properly sealed or they’ll burst while they fry and the filling will escape. To cut the acidity of the tomatoes, I love to serve these with a glass of a well-bodied Argentinean red wine.

Makes 24 empanadas

Fill a small bowl with iced water; set aside. In a small saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a rolling boil. Drop the basil into the water and boil for 20 seconds. Remove promptly and drop it into the iced water. Drain the basil and pat it dry with paper towels; chop finely.

In a medium bowl, stir together the basil, cheese, tomatoes, olive oil, and pepper; set aside.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 1 generous tablespoon of the filling in the middle of the prepared empanada disks. Bring the edges of the pastry together, enclosing the filling to form a half-moon shape; pinch the edges tightly to seal. Stretch out the edges to form a 1/2-inch rim; pinch and fold the rim to seal using the repulgue method to create a ropelike design (see note on the repulgue method on page 218). Set them on the prepared sheet.

Fit a large baking pan with a metal cooling rack; set aside. In a large skillet with high sides heat 2–3 inches of oil to 360°F (or use a deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s directions); working in small batches, carefully slide the empanadas into the oil. Fry them until golden, about 1 1/2–2 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the prepared rack to drain.

While they’re still warm, sprinkle lightly with salt (if using). Let them cool for 2 minutes and serve.

NOTE: You can keep the fried empanadas warm in a 250°F oven for up to 30 minutes before serving. These can be frozen after frying for up to 2 months. To reheat bake at 400°F until warm, about 8 minutes. You can also freeze them raw for up to 2 months and fry them right from the freezer (no need to thaw) until golden and hot, about 2–2 1/2 minutes or until the filling is hot.

Beef and Potato Empanadas (Empanadas de Parroquia)

These Colombian meat turnovers, often sold on the streets near parroquias (church parishes) after Sunday Mass, are flavored with guiso, a mixture of onions, tomatoes, and garlic. These empanadas are made with precooked cornmeal, which is also used to make arepas. Here, it’s treated more like pastry dough: rolled thinly, filled, and fried. My friend Luisa Fernanda Rios, a fabulous private chef who now lives in Vancouver, recalls eating empanadas made by her grandmother that were similar to these. She taught me that in Colombian cuisine, green onions reign supreme over all others; thus, they’re prominently displayed in this recipe. Luisa suggests serving these with ají (see my recipe for Colombian Hot Sauce on page 279), or with squirts of lime.

Makes 20 empanadas

Place the brisket in a pot of salted water set over medium-high heat and bring it to a boil. (Remove any foam that rises to the surface and discard.) Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1–1 1/2 hours or until it shreds easily. Cool in the broth for 30 minutes. Remove the brisket and reserve 1 1/4 cups of broth (save the rest for soups). Shred the beef and then chop it finely.

In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the white onions, tomatoes, bell peppers, garlic, cumin, and annatto and cook until the onions have begun to soften, about 2–3 minutes. Add the potatoes, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and the reserved broth and cook, stirring often, until the potatoes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and combine with the beef; add the green onions and stir. Chill for at least 15 minutes (or up to overnight).

In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal and the remaining salt. Slowly add the water, kneading the mixture with your hands until it comes together into a ball. Turn it onto a clean surface and knead until smooth, about 1 minute. Cover and let it rest for 5 minutes.

Line a tortilla press with a plastic sandwich bag that has been cut down the sides and opened flat. Divide the dough into 20 pieces (about 1/4 cup each); roll each into a ball, keeping the completed balls covered as you work. Working with one ball at a time, place the dough in the center of the press and flatten it into a 5-inch disk, about 1/8 inch thick. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the filling in the middle of the disk. Using the plastic to aid you, fold the disk in half over the filling and seal the edges well. Repeat with the rest of the dough, keeping the empanadas covered as you go. Fry them immediately.

Fit a large baking pan with a metal cooling rack; set aside. In a large Dutch oven heat 2–3 inches of oil to 360°F (or use a deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s directions); working in batches, carefully slide the empanadas in the oil. Fry them until golden, about 3–4 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the prepared rack to drain. Keep them warm in a 250°F oven for up to 1 hour before serving.

NOTE: These can be frozen for up to 3 months. Freeze them in a single layer on baking sheets until solid and transfer to freezer bins or zip-top bags. Reheat at 350°F for 12–15 minutes or until hot.

Shrimp and Masa Empanadas (Empanadas de Camarón)

Inside these crispy turnovers, which are similar to those found in the Yucatán Peninsula, is a spicy mélange of shrimp and sofrito. These empanadas are fried, so the resulting crust is both crunchy and meaty. When working with masa, the amount of water required will vary slightly depending on the brand of masa harina. If the edges of the shaped masa crack, for example, you’ll need to add a bit more water to the masa, and always keep it covered as you work so it doesn’t dry out. Serve these empanadas with the Avocado Sauce on page 268 or the Corn and Avocado Salsa on page 277 and dress them with refreshing garnishes, a drizzle of tangy crema, and a squeeze of lime. For extra color, crunch, and tanginess, top them with the pickled onions on page 281.

Makes 12 empanadas

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, cook the garlic until fragrant, about 10–20 seconds; add the tomatoes, chipotle, adobo sauce, and annatto. Stir well, breaking up the annatto, until smooth (add a couple of tablespoons of water if the annatto is too hard). Reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce, stirring, until the it thickens to a paste, about 10–15 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cool. Stir the shrimp into the sauce and chill for 1 hour (up to 8 hours; chilling makes the filling easier to work with).

Place the masa harina in a large bowl; gradually add 3 cups of the warm water to form dough with the consistency of playdough; cover and let it rest for 10 minutes. To determine whether the dough is the proper consistency, shape 1/3 cup of it into a ball and press it flat; if the edges crack, return it to the remaining masa, knead in a bit more water (a few tablespoons at a time) until you can form tortillas that do not crack.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and line a tortilla press with a zip-top freezer bag cut open along the sides (so it opens like a book). Divide the masa into 12 equal portions (about 1/3 cup each); roll each into a ball, keeping them covered with a damp kitchen towel as you work. Line a tortilla press with a zip-top freezer bag cut open along the sides (so it opens like a book).

Working with one empanada at a time, place a ball of masa in the middle of the tortilla press and flatten it into a 5 1/2-inch disk about 1/8 inch thick. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the filling in the middle of the tortilla, leaving a small rim; use the bag to fold the masa over the filling, forming a half moon; press the edges together with your fingers to seal. Transfer the empanada to the prepared sheet. Repeat with the rest of the dough, keeping the empanadas covered as you go. The empanadas can be shaped and filled up to 1 hour before frying; keep them covered and refrigerated until ready to fry.

Fit a large baking pan with a metal cooling rack; set aside. In a large skillet with high sides, heat 1–2 inches of oil to 360°F (or use a deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s directions). Working in batches, carefully slide the empanadas in the oil. Fry them until golden, about 4–6 minutes, turning them over halfway through. (The oil may get hotter as you fry; lower the temperature if they’re browning too quickly; cool the oil slightly before frying any more.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the prepared rack to drain.

Serve immediately or keep them warm on the rack in a 250°F oven for up to 1 hour before serving. To serve, place the empanadas on a platter and garnish with lettuce, tomatoes, and crema (if using); offer limes on the side.

NOTE: These can be frozen after frying for up to 2 months. Freeze them on a baking sheet in a single layer until solid and then transfer them to containers. Bake them directly from the freezer in a 400°F oven for 10–15 minutes or until hot.

Spinach Turnovers (Empanadas de Espinaca)

Flaky pastry hides a vegetarian treasure of creamy spinach and béchamel in these traditional Cuban street empanadas. Empanadas are often sold from push-carts or from carts attached to bicycles. The beautifully crafted morsels on display in glass cases entice passersby to stop and taste. On my last visit to Miami for a book fair, I couldn’t resist purchasing some of the flaky pastries offered by vendors on the street corner. Store-bought puff pastry and frozen spinach make these a cinch to make. When my girls were little, they’d take these to school in their lunch boxes. Now, I pair them with my favorite white wine and enjoy them as an elegant first course.

Makes 18 empanadas

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat; add the onions and cook for 1–2 minutes or until soft but not browned. Reduce the heat to low; add the flour and whisk well, cooking for 1–2 minutes, being careful not to let it turn golden or brown. Remove from the heat; add the milk, whisking vigorously, until the mixture is smooth. Return to the heat and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the sauce is the consistency of soft mashed potatoes, about 3 minutes, being careful not to let it burn. Remove from the heat. Stir in the salt, nutmeg, spinach, and cheese; set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. On a clean, lightly floured surface, roll out one puff pastry sheet to form a 12-inch square; using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut it into 9 (4×4-inch) squares.

Place about a 1/4 cup of the spinach mixture on the center of each square; brush the edges of the pastry with egg wash and fold the pastry over the filling to form a triangle. Use the tines of a fork to crimp the edges decoratively to seal. Place the pastry triangles on the prepared baking sheets. Repeat with the second puff pastry sheet.

Brush the tops of the empanadas with the egg wash and bake until golden, about 15–20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

NOTE: The unbaked empanadas can be frozen for up to 2 months. Freeze them in a single layer until solid and then transfer them to containers. Don’t thaw before baking; simply add about 5–8 more minutes to the baking time or bake until they’re golden.

Guava and Cream Cheese Empanadas (Empanadas de Queso y Guayaba)

In this classic Cuban turnover, nectarous guava paste meets tangy cream cheese and flaky puff pastry. Guava paste has a consistency similar to softened gumdrops—a bit pasty, very thick, and truly luscious when it melts. In a pinch, use the more readily available guava jelly. Make these pastries ahead of time and freeze them before you bake them; there is no need to thaw them. If in the middle of the afternoon you’re secretly craving one (or two or three!) of these decadent empanadas, simply throw them in a toaster oven, bake, and eat them to your heart’s content. It will be our little secret.

Makes 18 empanadas

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a clean, lightly floured surface, roll out one puff pastry sheet to form a 12-inch square; using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut it into 9 (4×4-inch) squares.

Brush a pastry square with egg wash. Place one piece of the cream cheese on top of a guava paste rectangle and place the stack on the diagonal in the center of the pastry square. Bring the two opposite corners of the pastry together to form a triangle; seal the edges with your fingers and then crimp the edges decoratively using the tines of a fork. Repeat with the rest of the ingredients.

Place the filled empanadas on the prepared sheets and brush the tops with egg wash. Bake until golden, about 15–20 minutes. Serve them warm or at room temperature. (To freeze the unbaked empanadas, see note on page 233.)

NOTE: If you’re using guava jelly, you’ll need 1 tablespoon for each empanada.

Miniature Quince Empanadas (Empanaditas de Membrillo)

These delicate quince hand pies are found in southern Argentina, sometimes called pasteles or masitas. Quince preserves are known as dulce de membrillo, and they taste a bit like lemon-scented apples—a bit tangy and plenty sweet. These are a smaller version of the kinds of empanadas you’ll find sold in parks and cafes with outdoor seating. Find quince paste in gourmet markets and in some grocery stores. At home, I serve these as part of a cheese course, with a glass of ice wine. Whether you’re enjoying them on a park bench while sipping coffee from a take-out cup or during a candle-lit dinner while savoring champagne from a crystal flute, you’ll find that these empanaditas are always delightful and always sweet.

Makes 4–4 1/2 dozen empanadas

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside. On a floured surface, roll the pastry to 1/8-inch thickness (as you would a piecrust). Using a 2 1/2-inch round cutter, cut out 4–4 1/2 dozen disks. Place one teaspoon of quince paste in the middle of each disk. Fold the pastry over the filling to form a half moon. Seal the edges decoratively with a fork. Set the finished empanadas in the prepared sheets, brush the tops with the egg wash and bake until golden, about 12–15 minutes.

NOTE: These can be frozen unbaked for up to 3 months. Freeze them in a single layer until solid and then transfer to containers. Bake them directly from the freezer (no need to thaw them) until golden, about 15–20 minutes.

Chocolate and Peanut Empanadas

These sweet handheld pies filled with chocolate paste are my answer to chocolate cravings. The pastry yields softly to the tooth, and silky chocolate and peanut sauce takes them over the edge. Mine are smaller than those sold on the streets, but you can make them as large as you wish.

Makes 30 empanadas

FOR THE DOUGH

FOR THE FILLING

FOR THE SAUCE

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the flour, cocoa powder, and salt; pulse 2–3 times to combine. Add the cream cheese, butter, and vinegar; pulse on and off until it forms a wet, sticky dough. Divide the dough in half and press each half into a disk. Wrap each in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour (up to overnight).

Meanwhile, make the filling. In a medium pot, stir together the condensed milk, cocoa, and half and half over medium heat. Bring to a boil; remove from heat. In a double boiler (a bowl over barely simmering water), melt 3 ounces of the milk chocolate and all of the semisweet chocolate, stirring, until smooth; set aside for 5 minutes.

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the peanuts until they are finely ground (about 30 seconds). Add the melted chocolate and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the work bowl occasionally. Add the condensed milk mixture and pulse until combined. Reserve 1 cup of the filling for the sauce; set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Dust a clean surface with flour; roll out the pastry to 1/8 inch thick (as you would a piecrust). Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter, cut out rounds; continue rolling (rerolling the scraps when necessary) to make 30 rounds. Working with a few pastry rounds at a time, moisten the edges with egg wash; place 1 scant tablespoon of filling in the center of each round; press the filling down into the center and fold the pastry over to form half-moon shapes. Seal the edges with your fingers, and set the empanadas on the prepared baking sheets. Brush the tops with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 15–20 minutes or until slightly golden (some will burst slightly). Remove them from the oven and transfer to wire racks to cool slightly.

For the sauce, in a medium pot, combine the reserved cup of filling with the half and half over medium-low heat, stirring until smooth. Remove from the heat; add the chocolate and stir until the chocolate has melted.

Serve the empanadas drizzled with a bit of sauce.

NOTE: These are best eaten fresh but will keep in an airtight container up to 24 hours. They may be frozen raw (without egg wash and sugar) or after baking. Freeze in a single layer until solid and then transfer to zip-top bags. Freeze for up to 2 months. There is no need to thaw the raw empanadas before baking. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar and bake as directed. Thaw the baked empanadas at room temperature and reheat until warm in a 300°F oven (about 4 minutes).

Cornmeal and Milk Pudding Empanadas (Empanadas de Manjar Blanco)

These sweet and tender empanadas are sold in Guatemalan streets only during the Lenten season, which, when I was a child, meant I had to wait a very long year before I could eat them again. Annatto paints them a bright orange color and the creamy custard filling, called manjar blanco, is good all on its own. It took me years to develop this recipe because harina de salpor, the corn flour used to make them, is not easily found outside Guatemala. I made it work with white cornmeal and some tweaking. These are only good for a day or two after they’re made because the moist custard will make them soggy. However, they freeze well; thaw them at room temperature before eating. Now I can enjoy them all year round, and so can you.

Makes 10 empanadas

In a small bowl, combine the annatto with 1 tablespoon of boiling water; stir to form a smooth paste and set aside to cool.

In a large bowl, sift together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut the shortening into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles small peas. Stir in 1 cup of the sugar; set aside.

Stir 2 of the egg yolks into the cooled annatto mixture and stir this into the flour mixture with a fork (it will get lumpy). Use your hands to knead in 5 tablespoons of the water until the dough comes together into a ball. If it’s too dry, add one more tablespoon of water, kneading well, until it holds together; cover and let it sit for 45 minutes (the dough will be very moist).

In a medium pot, heat the milk and cinnamon stick over medium heat until it comes to a slow simmer (don’t let it boil); remove from the heat and cool for 5 minutes. Discard the cinnamon stick; stir in the remaining sugar.

In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup of cold water with the cornstarch and the remaining egg yolk; stir this into the warm milk mixture and return to the stove. Cook and stir over medium-low heat until the custard thickens and comes to a boil, about 4 minutes, being very careful not to burn it. As soon as it reaches a boil, remove it from the heat and cool, stirring often, for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 10 equal portions (about 1/4 cup each) and roll each into a ball, keeping them covered with a damp kitchen towel as you work. Line a tortilla press with a plastic bag that has been cut along two sides (so it opens like a book). Make one empanada at a time. Place a dough ball in the middle of the bag and press to flatten into a 5-inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of custard in the middle of the round, leaving a small rim; use the bag to fold the dough over the filling, forming a half-moon shape; seal the edges by pressing them together. Place empanadas on the prepared sheet; bake for 20–22 minutes or until edges are golden. Cool on racks.

NOTE: These can be kept frozen for up to 2 months. Freeze them in a single layer until solid and then transfer them to freezer containers or zip-top bags. Thaw to room temperature. They’re not suitable for reheating.