Botanists love South America, possibly the most geographically dynamic continent on the planet, with the world’s largest rainforest and the world’s driest desert (Chile’s Atacama) a bus ride or two away from each other. Anthropologists and sociologists are still combing the rainforest, studying indigenous, isolated tribes. Climbers have a selection of scaleable peaks that stretch from Colombia to Patagonia. Amateur adventurers are lured by the challenges of overland travel as well as the stunning Inca ruins. For urbanites, the cities offer a combination of congestion, coastal vistas and fantastic salsa and samba clubs. And soccer-lovers are in for a real treat: some of the world’s most acrobatic stylists come from these parts.
On average, travellers in South America tend to be a little older and more experienced than the ones who visit Europe or Australia. They seem less in search of spiritual enlightenment than the ones in India and less tan-hungry than the ones in Thailand. Couple the region’s scary diseases with even scarier political regimes and rebel groups, and it’s easy to understand why the travel routes haven’t turned into tourist superhighways, in spite of the continent’s many and varied attractions. The most common language is Spanish (with Portuguese-speaking Brazil a notable exception), but from country to country the dialect can be as different as Australian and American, complete with unique words and expressions. Many people elect to begin their trips with a short language course, which can be a huge help, especially once you head out of the cities.
MAIN ATTRACTIONS
1 Amazon rainforest Often called the “lungs of the world”, this occasionally impenetrable snarl of vegetation bigger than Western Europe produces twenty percent of the planet’s oxygen. It accommodates the world’s second-longest river (over 6300km), which carries twelve times more water than the Mississippi and discharges it upwards of 250km out into the Atlantic. Despite its ongoing destruction, it’s the most biodiverse natural phenomenon going and can be best explored in Brazil, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador.
2 Angel Falls (Salto Angel) Venezuela. It can’t be seen in one glance. You need to start at the bottom and slowly tilt your head back to take in all 979 metres of the freefalling water. The world’s highest waterfall isn’t that easy (or cheap) to get to. This southern Venezuelan wonder is most commonly seen out the window of a plane, but it’s possible to take a multi-day trip in a motorized dugout canoe.
3 Galápagos Islands Ecuador. This barren, volcanic thirteen-island archipelago located 1000km off Ecuador’s coast is best known for its unique wildlife, and the man who pointed out the process of natural selection that got them that way: Charles Darwin. The absence of natural predators affords humans an intimacy with the animals unheard of elsewhere. You can swim with sea lions, float alongside penguins, step over blue-footed boobies and pose for pictures next to marine iguanas.
4 Machu Picchu/Cusco Peru. Once the head of the Inca Empire, the town of Cuzco now serves as the springboard for trips to Machu Picchu, the mountainous “Lost City” (discovered by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911). Most budget travellers prefer to arrive on foot by way of the Inca Trail, a sometimes-crowded four-day trek that takes in high-altitude passes, countless scenic overlooks and lush cloudforests.
5 Rio de Janeiro Brazil. This city is easily one of the most breathtaking on the planet. A 27-metre-tall statue of Christ looms over the nine million caipirinha-drinking, samba-dancing, beach-football-playing Cariocas (inhabitants of Rio). Rio kicks into high gear during Carnaval, as everyone tries to rack up forty days’ worth of eating, drinking and sinning before Lent arrives.
SECURITY ISSUES
It’s always a good idea to check the current political conditions before visiting a country (see Chapter 15), but the following are worth a little extra research: Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela.
WHEN TO GO
The weather in South America is welcoming year-round, especially if you’re flexible. Often, that doesn’t mean fleeing far. If it gets too steamy in the coastal lowlands, just head for the cooler surrounding hills. A few things to watch for: in the south of Patagonia, winter can get awfully cold, and shops and lodgings close; and the remote dirt roads near the Amazon basin get muddy and impassable during rainy season (Jan–April). That’s also when the Inca Trail becomes wet and slippery and the Galápagos Islands are hot and drizzly. There are two peak seasons: South Americans tend to go on holiday from mid-December until Carnaval in February; and most foreigners arrive in July and August.
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
- Routine boosters for measles/mumps/rubella (MMR), diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT) and polio.
- Hepatitis A
- Hepatitis B (optional)
- Rabies (optional)
- Typhoid
- Yellow fever (tropical areas in all countries except Chile, Uruguay and southern Argentina; entry requirement for several)
GETTING AROUND BY AIR
One look at the point-to-point air travel prices, and it’s easy to understand why overland travel is so popular among budget travellers. As usual, domestic flights are often significantly cheaper, even over longer distances, so if it’s just a matter of taking a slightly smoother ride, that’s a decent alternative.
LOWEST DAILY BUDGET
Expensive (£38–50/$60–78):
Falkland Islands, French Guiana
Mid-range (£22–35/$34–55):
Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Uruguay, Venezuela
Budget (£15–20/$23–31):
Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay
AIR PASSES
There are a variety of air passes you can turn to, but, unfortunately, most are for flights in a single country only and have to be purchased before you arrive. If you fly to the continent with a South American carrier, you can often get significant savings on their air pass.
- Visit Argentina
turismo.gov.ar
(click Information, then Airpass). Must be purchased in
conjunction with an international ticket, abroad or in
Argentina. Minimum of three coupons, maximum of twelve. There is
also a South American Pass with basically the same setup, which
can take you to Montevideo, Santiago, Rio de Janeiro and Caracas
with Aerolineas Argentinas. - TAM/GOL Brazil Airpass brol.com/brazilairpass.asp. Provides four to nine
flights within thirty days with TAM and GOL airlines. GOL
requires a flight to Brazil on GOL, Air France, KLM or Delta.
GOL also has a South America Air Pass comprising four flights
within the continent.
- Visit South America oneworld.com. This
One World alliance pass covers 65 cities in ten countries
(Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay,
Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela), and offers savings of up to fifty
percent, but always compare prices online before using up a
coupon. Minimum of three flights. No upper limit. Coupons are
priced depending on the length of your flight.
SAMPLE RETURN AIRFARES
Caracas to:
- Bogotá £375/$586
- Lima £435/$680
- Quito £395/$617
- Santiago £390/$610
Rio de Janeiro to:
- Buenos Aires £195/$305
- La Paz £350/$547
- Quito £465/$727
- Santiago £260/$406
OVERLAND ROUTES
The classic South American overland route brought travellers down from
Central America to Tierra del Fuego via the Panamerican Highway. Even Butch
Cassidy and the Sundance Kid reportedly got as far as central Patagonia.
Roads around the Amazon rainforest and the mountain highlands (Peru, Bolivia
and Ecuador) are among the slowest going. The main routes in Argentina,
Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Venezuela are relatively well surfaced and allow
traffic to move perhaps a little too fast for your own comfort level.
Peruvin routes include ones from Cusco to Puno and Aguas Calientes for Machu
Picchu ( perserail.com) and in
Ecuador the Quito to Guayaquil line is famous for its stunning scenery and
the precipitous Devil’s Nose section ( trencrucero.com).
BUSES
For short and mid-range distances, buses are the most common, convenient and usually the cheapest way to get around South America. Here’s a general rule of thumb: the cheaper the bus is per hour, the slower you’re going, the rougher the ride and the greater the chance that something can further delay your journey. In addition to the terrain, politics can slow things down. Major political disagreements usually find their way to the surface in the form of road blocks. Locals may drag a few trees across the road or go on strike, but generally if you wait for a few days the path clears.
TRAINS
There’s no extensive rail network, but a number of classic train
journeys are well worth the ride, such as the line from Salta to San
Antonio de los Cobres (Train to the Clouds; trenalasnubes.com.ar), which runs through the foothills of the
Argentinean Andes. There’s also the Bolivian eye-popper from Oruro to
Villazón ( fca.com.bo) via a
seemingly bottomless gorge. Peruvian routes includes ones from Cusco to
Puno and Aguas Calientes for Machu Picchu ( perurail.com), and in Ecuador
the Quito to Guayaquil line is famous for its stunning scenery and the
precipitous Devil’s Nose section ( trencrucero.com).
CARS
RENTING
Rental isn’t such a great deal, but with a few travellers sharing
the cost it can be an option. All you need to rent a car is a valid
driving licence, major
credit card or cash deposit and in some countries – Argentina,
Bolivia, Colombia and Suriname
– an international driving permit ( theaa.co.uk). Driving is
on the right-hand side, except for the daredevil passing that takes
place on some roads. For longer-term rentals, look around for deals
once you’re in a city centre. Make sure insurance is included with
the quoted price of the vehicle, as it’s usually mandatory. Also,
watch out for sneaky offers, such as not having to pay for damage in
the event of an accident. The catch? You have to pay seventy percent
or so of the daily rate for as long as it takes to fix the vehicle.
And you can guess how long it’ll take to complete the
repairs.
BUYING A CAR
One of the best places to buy a car is Chile, specifically Iquique, a duty-free port town well north of Santiago: customs officers there are reportedly accustomed to handling the international paperwork. Santiago also has a good reputation for car purchasing. With some luck you can even sell the vehicle for a profit in Peru, Bolivia or elsewhere. Asunción in Paraguay may be the best place to sell if you can get there. The paperwork necessary for heading over borders can be gathered at embassies and consulates along the way, but it can be a hassle. You’ll need a Carnet de Passage, also known as a Libreta de Pasos por Aduana.
When it comes to choosing a car, you’d do well to pick up a Toyota Land Cruiser, especially if you’ve got some off-roading in mind. It’s popular, attractive even with a few scratches and easy to sell. More important, it rarely breaks down. Tagging along behind buses after dusk is a good option, as there are scores of roads that become dangerous by night. Don’t get too close on gravel roads, though, as windscreens crack easily from stray flying pebbles. Petrol isn’t that cheap, especially in the southern half of the continent and in difficult-to-reach areas, where it can rival European prices.
BIKES
Cyclists can find nicer, less chaotic roads, such as those in southern Argentina and Chile. The cyclist community is small, but it exists all over South America. There’s more on travelling by bike in “How to get around the world”.
HITCHING
The plausibility of hitching varies from region to region, but it is sometimes the only way to reach out-of-the-way spots. In Chile, hitching is particularly popular, even among young Chilean travellers. Because traffic can be sparse along many routes, adequate food and water is a must. See the section on hitching tips and safety issues.
READING LIST
- Isabel Allende Eva Luna
- Jorge Amado Doña Flor and Her Two Husbands
- Machado de Assis Quincas Borba
- Bruce Chatwin In Patagonia
- Charles Darwin On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection
- Peter Fleming Brazilian Adventure
- Ernesto “Che” Guevara The Motorcycle Diaries: a Journey Around South America
- Gabriel García Márquez One Hundred Years of Solitude
- Pablo Neruda Selected Poems
- Mario Vargas Llosa The Notebooks of Don Rigoberto
VISAS
Most travellers landing in South American countries will find visas are generally handed out on arrival (or can be purchased at that time). Brazil, Paraguay and Suriname are the typical exceptions, but check for overland entry requirements, which can differ from the rules for those who arrive by air.
Some countries, most notably Brazil and Chile, have reciprocated US policy when it comes to visas, matching the heavy fees and paperwork that the US demands of Brazilians and Chileans who want to visit America.
VISA AND VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS FOR SOUTH AMERICA
Argentina No visa required for stays of up to 90 days for Americans, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, Latin Americans and citizens of most European countries. There is, however, an “entry request fee” for Canadians (£105/$164) and Australians (£110/$174), and a “reciprocity fee” of £102/$160 for Americans.
Bolivia No visa required for stays of up to 30 days for Canadians, Australians and New Zealanders, and 90 days for most Europeans. Americans need visas, either from a consulate or upon arrival. These are valid for five years, but the maximum annual stay is 90 days. Vaccinations for malaria, dengue, rabies and yellow fever are recommended.
Brazil Visa required for citizens of the US, Australia and Canada. Visas are valid for five years, but the maximum stay is 90 days. Travel must be started within 90 days of issue. Europeans are exempt from visas, but need sufficient funds and onward/return ticket.
Chile No visa required for stays of up to 90 days.
Colombia No visa required for stays of up to 180 days. Proof of sufficient funds and onward/return ticket required.
Ecuador No visa required for stays of up to 90 days per calendar year.
French Guiana No visa required for stays of up to 90 days. Yellow fever vaccination compulsory for all travellers from all countries.
Guyana No visa required for stays of up to 30 days.
Paraguay Visa required, available on arrival only at Silvio Pettirossi airport. If arriving by other means, a visa must be obtained in advance. Visa-exemption for nationals of neighbouring countries and most of Europe. Maximum stay 90 days. Measles and Rubella vaccination required.
Peru No visa required for stays of up to 183 days for passport holders from the English-speaking world and Europe.
Suriname Visa required, or Tourist Card obtainable on arrival at Johan Adolf Pengel International Airport, for stays of up to 90 days. “Computer-generated” itinerary and onward/return ticket required. Vaccinations against yellow fever and rabies are recommended.
Uruguay No visa required for stays of up to 90 days.
Venezuela Visa required for Americans, valid for one year and allowing 90 days in the country. No visa required for other travellers for stays of up to 90 days. Must show proof of sufficient funds and onward/return ticket.
AVOIDING THE DARIÉN GAP
To get from Central to South America (Panama to Colombia), there are a few options. There’s the Darién Gap, a rough and lawless jungle between Colombia and Panama considered by many to be the most notorious overland stretch in the world. If you get robbed only once you’re considered to have had excellent luck – some people get kidnapped for months, some never come out. This route should not be attempted.
Instead, take a flight to Puerto Obaldia, then a walk or boat to Capurgana, then a boat to Turbo (two hours), and from there a cargo boat (two days) to Cartagena. Option two is a flight from Panama City to El Porvenir, then a sailing boat service (four to five days) to Cartagena via the San Blas Islands. From a budget perspective, however, neither of these is cheaper than flying: it costs £300/$470 to get from Panama City to Cartagena.