INDEX

 

Aging

bread

pastry, cookies, and cakes

Al Forno (Providence)

Almonds

Biscotti, photo

Ancient grains

einkorn

rye

spelt

Apizza, Connecticut-Style, photo

Arugula, Robiola, and Mortadella Pizza Topping, photo

Autolyze, 1.1, 5.1

 

Bacon. See also Pancetta

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Bagels, photo

Baguettes, photo

Baker’s lame

Baking peels

Baking racks

Baking sheets

Baking stones, 2.1, 3.1, 5.1

Baking tips

bread

pastry, cookies, and cakes

pizza

Banneton

BAR (New Haven)

Barber, Dan

Barclay Prime (Philadelphia)

Beef

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Ragù Bolognese

Beet Butter Sauce, photo

Bench scraper

Bertolli, Paul

Bethany-McDowell, Jonathan, 3.1, 5.1

Bianco, Chris, 5.1, 5.2

Bianco-Style Pizza, photo

Biga

Biscotti, photo

Black pepper

Cacio e Pepe

Blue Beard durum wheat

Blueberries, adding to Muffins

Bolognese, Ragù

Bowls

Bran

extracting, during milling

flavor and fiber in

Muffins, photo

Puff Pastry, photo

Rice Flour Mixture

Scones, photo

sifting out of flour

Streusel for Muffins

Bread (as recipe ingredient)

Canederli, photo

Passatelli, photo

Bread flour, note about

Bread Lab at Washington State University, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 3.1

Breads

Bagels, photo

Baguettes, photo

Focaccia, photo

Potato Rolls, photo

Rye

Sourdough Durum Loaf

Sourdough Loaf, photo

Yeasted Ciabatta, photo

Yeasted Loaf, photo

Breads (about)

aging

baking

baking stones for

choosing grain for

fermenting

milling grain for

mixing and kneading, 2.1, 3.1

shaping

storing

Breuer, Herta

Broccolini and Sausage Pizza Topping

Broccoli Rabe and Pecorino Toscano Pizza Topping

Brooklyn Bread Lab, 1.1, 6.1

Brownies, photo

Buckwheat flour

Shortbread Pie Crust, photo

Burr mills

Butter

Beet Sauce, photo

Brown, Sauce

Honey

Honey, and Lavender Pizza Topping

 

Cacio e Pepe

Cakes

aging

baking

Carrot, photo

choosing grain for

extracting bran for

milling grain for

mixing batter

Sponge

Canederli, photo

Carrot(s)

Cake, photo

Ragù Bolognese

Castle Valley Mill

Cavatelli and Orecchiette, Flour-and-Water Dough for, photo

Celiac disease

Cheese

Broccoli Rabe and Pecorino Toscano Pizza Topping

Brown Butter Sauce

Cacio e Pepe

Canederli, photo

Corn with Scallions Pizza Topping, photo

Cream, Frosting

Four, Pizza Topping, photo

Gricia Pizza Topping

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Mushroom Pizza Topping

Pancetta Ragù

Passatelli, photo

Pepperoni Pizza Topping

Pistachio Pesto and Fontina Pizza Topping

Potato Gnocchi Dough, photo

Ragù Bolognese

Ricotta and Lemon Zest Ravioli Filling

Ricotta and Nutmeg Ravioli Filling

Robiola, Mortadella, and Arugula Pizza Topping, photo

Sausage and Broccolini Pizza Topping

Tomato and Stracciatella Pizza Topping, photo

Chicken Liver and Saffron Ragù, photo

Chile, Garlic, and Oil Sauce, photo

Chile powder, adding to Brownies

Chinese five spice, adding to Brownies

Chocolate

adding to Muffins

adding to Sponge Cake

Brownies, photo

Chip Cookies, photo

Ciabatta, Yeasted, photo

Cinnamon, adding to Brownies

Clam Pizza Topping, photo

Cloverleaf Bar (Detroit)

Coconut

Carrot Cake, photo

Commodity flour, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1

Connecticut-Style Apizza, photo

Containers, airtight

Cookies and bars

aging

baking

Biscotti, photo

Brownies, photo

Chocolate Chip Cookies, photo

choosing grain for

extracting bran for

milling grain for

mixing dough

Shortbread Cookies, photo

Cooking by Hand (Bertolli)

Cooking tips

Cooling racks

Corn with Scallions Pizza Topping, photo

Couche

Cracked Rye

Cream, Whipped

Cream Cheese Frosting

Croissants, Whole Wheat, photo

Crumb, defined

Cumin, adding to Chocolate Chip Cookies

Currants, adding to Muffins

 

Del Posto (NYC)

Descendents (Toronto)

Detroit-Style Pizza

Duck fat

Bagels, photo

Dumplings. See Canederli

Durum wheat

Biscotti, photo

Blue Beard, about

Flour-and-Water Dough for Orecchiette and Cavatelli, photo

Focaccia, photo

Iraq, about

Pasta Sfoglia Dough for Lasagna and Ravioli, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

Pizza al Taglio, photo

semolina, about

Shortbread Cookies, photo

Sourdough Durum Loaf

varieties of

water absorption

 

Edison hard winter wheat

Eggs

about

Canederli, photo

Einkorn

Emmy Squared (Brooklyn)

Endosperm, 1.1, 1.2

Equipment

airtight containers

baker’s lame

baking sheets

baking stones, peels, and racks

bench scraper

bowls

digital scale

mixers

parchment paper

pasta-making tools

pots and pans

proofing baskets

shaping linen

sieve

thermometer

Extensibility, defined

Extraction

for bread

defined

for pasta

for pastry, cookies, and cakes

for pizza

 

Fante’s (Philadelphia)

Farmers, buying wheat berries from

Farro flour

Pasta Sfoglia Dough for Lasagna and Ravioli, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

Fennel seeds, adding to Chocolate Chip Cookies

Fermenting

for bread

for pastry, cookies, and cakes

for pizza

temperatures for

Fife, Dave

Flaxseeds

adding to Shortbread Cookies

Rye Bread

Flour. See also Grain; specific flours

“00” or semolina

“bread flour, ” note about

buying from a mill

buying from a supermarket

commodity, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1

customizing

“Doppio 0, ” about

enzymatic activity

Italian, grades of

proper storage

Rice

Rice, Mixture

Tipo, about

white, history of

Focaccia, photo

Focaccia Biga

Fontina and Pistachio Pesto Pizza Topping

Fountain Restaurant (Philadelphia)

Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria (New Haven)

Frederick soft white wheat

Frosting, Cream Cheese

Fruit, dried, adding to Scones

 

Garlic

and Herb Pizza Topping

Oil, and Chile Sauce, photo

Germ, in wheat berries, 1.1, 1.2

Germon, George

Gluten intolerance

Gluten protein, 1.1, 1.2

Gnocchi Dough, Potato, photo

Graham, Sylvester

Grain. See also Milling; Wheat

for bread, choosing

for pasta, choosing

for pastry, cookies, and cakes, choosing

for pizza, choosing

processing changes over time

Grant, Susan McKenna

Grapefruit Puree

in Biscotti, photo

in Carrot Cake, photo

recipe for

Greenmarket Regional Grains Project, 1.1, 1.2

Gricia Pizza Topping

 

Hagberg Number

Hammer mills

Hard red winter wheat

Bagels, photo

Baguettes, photo

characteristics of

Detroit-Style Pizza

Focaccia, photo

Focaccia Biga

Kansas Turkey, about

Passatelli, photo

Redeemer, about

Red Fife, about

Sourdough Durum Loaf

Sourdough Loaf, photo

types of

Warthog, about

Hard winter wheat.See also Hard red winter wheat

Bianco-Style Pizza, photo

Biga

characteristics of

Connecticut-Style Apizza, photo

Edison, about

Flour-and-Water Dough for Pici and Tonnarelli, photo

Pizza al Taglio, photo

Pizza Romana

Puff Pastry, photo

Whole Wheat Croissants, photo

Yeasted Ciabatta, 76

Yeasted Loaf, photo

Hayden Flour Mills

Henry VIII (Portland), 1.1, 6.1

Herbs

adding to Scones

and Garlic Pizza Topping

and Oil Pizza Topping, photo

Honey, Butter, and Lavender Pizza Topping

Honey Butter

 

Inclusion, defined

Ingredients

eggs

filtered water

oil

salt

weighing

yeast

Iraq durum wheat

Italian Heritage Center (Portland)

 

Jones, Stephen, 1.1, 1.2

 

Kansas Turkey wheat, 1.1, 1.2

Killeen, Johanne

Kneading and mixing

bread

pasta

pizza

KoMo Magic Grain Mill

 

La Chiusa (Italy)

Laminating, defined

Lasagna and Ravioli, Pasta Sfoglia Dough for, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

Lavender, Butter, and Honey Pizza Topping

Le Bec Fin (Philadelphia)

Lemon Zest and Ricotta Ravioli Filling

Leonti (NYC)

Levain. See also Biga

changing hydration of

defined

maintaining

recipe for

scaling up the recipe

versus yeast

Lewis, Merrill

Liver, Chicken, and Saffron Ragù, photo

Lucherini, Dania

 

Maggi, Alberto, 6.1, 6.2

Magog flour

Pizza Romana

Shortbread Pie Crust, photo

Maltagliata, Tagliatelle, Pappardelle, and Tagliolini, Whole-Egg Dough for, photo

Malt syrup

Bagels, photo

Puff Pastry, photo

McLelland, JD

Meadows 8-inch mill

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Mesquite powder, adding to Brownies

Michaud, Jeff

Millers

buying flour from

buying wheat berries from

Milling

for bread

customizing flour

monitoring temperatures, 1.1, 1.2

for pasta

for pastry, cookies, and cakes

for pizza

safety precautions

Mills

burr

buying

hammer

maintaining

roller, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

stone, 1.1, 1.2

types of

Mixers, 2.1, 2.2

Mixing and kneading

bread

pasta

pastry, cookies, and cakes

pizza

Mockmill attachment for mixers

Modern Apizza (New Haven)

Muffins, photo

Murphy, Aileen

Mushroom Pizza Topping

 

Napoletana, Pizza, photo

Nuts

adding to Brownies

adding to Chocolate Chip Cookies

adding to Muffins

adding to Scones

Biscotti

Carrot Cake

Pistachio Pesto and Fontina Pizza Topping

 

Oil, for recipes

Olive and Tomato Pizza Topping

Orecchiette and Cavatelli, Flour-and-Water Dough for, photo

Osteria della Brughiera (Italy), 1.1, 4.1, 6.1, 6.2

Ovens

keeping high constant heat in

preheating

regulating temperature

Oxidation

 

Pancetta

Gricia Pizza Topping

Ragù

Ragù Bolognese

Pane Bianco (Phoenix)

Pans and pots

Pappardelle, Tagliatelle, Maltagliata, and Tagliolini, Whole-Egg Dough for, photo

Parchment paper

Passalacqua, Anna

Passatelli, photo

Pasta

Canederli, photo

Flour-and-Water Dough for Orecchiette and Cavatelli, photo

Flour-and-Water Dough for Pici and Tonnarelli, photo

Passatelli

Potato Gnocchi Dough, photo

Sfoglia Dough for Lasagna and Ravioli, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

Whole-Egg Dough for Tagliatelle, Maltagliata, Pappardelle, and Tagliolini, photo

Pasta (about)

choosing grain for

cooking

extracting bran for

milling grain for

mixing and kneading

saucing

storing dough

Pasta-making tools

Pasta sauces

Beet Butter, photo

Brown Butter

Cacio e Pepe

Chicken Liver and Saffron Ragù, photo

Garlic, Oil, and Chile, photo

Pancetta Ragù

Ragù Bolognese

Red Pepper Ragù, photo

Pastry

aging

baking

choosing grain for

extracting bran for

fermenting

milling grain for

Pie Crust

Puff Pastry, photo

Scones, photo

Shortbread Pie Crust, photo

Whole Wheat Croissants, photo

Pecorino Toscano and Broccoli Rabe Pizza Topping

Pepper, Red, Ragù, photo

Pepperoni Pizza Topping

Piano, Piano, Pieno (Grant)

Pici and Tonnarelli, Flour-and-Water Dough for, photo

Pickins, Josh

Pie Crust

Pie Crust, Shortbread, photo

Pine nuts

Biscotti, photo

Pistachio Pesto and Fontina Pizza Topping

Pizza

al Taglio, photo

Bianco-Style, photo

Connecticut-Style Apizza, photo

Detroit-Style

Napoletana, photo

Providence-Style, photo

Romana

Pizza (about)

baking

blind baking dough

choosing grain for

extracting bran for

fermenting dough

milling grain for

mixing and kneading, 2.1, 5.1

shaping dough

stretching dough

testing dough strength (windowpane test)

Pizza toppings

Broccoli Rabe and Pecorino Toscano

Butter, Honey, and Lavender

Clam, photo

Corn with Scallions, photo

Four Cheese, photo

Garlic and Herb

Gricia

Herbs and Oil, photo

Meat Lovers

Mushroom

Pepperoni

Pistachio Pesto and Fontina

Robiola, Mortadella, and Arugula, photo

Sausage and Broccolini

Tomato and Olive

Tomato and Stracciatella, photo

Pizzeria Bianco (Phoenix), 5.1, 5.2

Pork. See also Bacon; Sausage

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Pancetta Ragù

Pepperoni Pizza Topping

Ragù Bolognese

Robiola, Mortadella, and Arugula Pizza Topping, photo

Potato

Gnocchi Dough, photo

Rolls, photo

Pots and pans

Proofing. See Fermenting

Proofing baskets

Protein count

Providence-Style Pizza, photo

Puff Pastry, photo

 

Racks, cooling

Ragù

Bolognese

Pancetta

Red Pepper, photo

Raisins, adding to Muffins

Rascher, Bruce, 1.1, 6.1

Ravioli and Lasagna, Pasta Sfoglia Dough for, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

Ravioli fillings

Ricotta and Lemon Zest

Ricotta and Nutmeg

Recipes, how to use

Redeemer hard red winter wheat

Red Fife hard red winter wheat

Red Russian wheat

Reinhart, Peter

Rice Flour

Mixture

preparing

Shortbread Cookies, photo

Richman, Alan

Ricotta

and Lemon Zest Ravioli Filling

and Nutmeg Ravioli Filling

Robertson, Chad

Robiola, Mortadella, and Arugula Pizza Topping, 174

Rodriguez, Melissa

Roller mills, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

Rolls, Potato, photo

Romana, Pizza

Russell, June, 1.1, 1.2

Rye

about

Bread

Brownies, photo

Chocolate Chip Cookies, photo

Cracked

Detroit-Style Pizza

Potato Gnocchi Dough, photo

Potato Rolls, photo

 

Sally’s Apizza (New Haven)

Salt, for recipes

Sauces. See Pasta sauces

Sausage

and Broccolini Pizza Topping

Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

Pepperoni Pizza Topping

Robiola, Mortadella, and Arugula Pizza Topping, photo

Scale, digital

Scallions with Corn Pizza Topping, photo

Scones, photo

Semolina, defined

Sesame seeds

adding to Shortbread Cookies

Rye Bread

Sessanta (NYC)

Seylou bakery (Washington, DC)

Sfincione. See Detroit-Style Pizza

Shaping

bread

pizza

Shaping linen (couche)

Shortbread Cookies, photo

Shortbread Pie Crust, photo

Sieve, 1.1, 2.1

Soft white wheat

Baguettes, photo

Carrot Cake, photo

characteristics of

Flour-and-Water Dough for Orecchiette and Cavatelli, photo

Frederick, about

Muffins, 234

Pie Crust

Pizza Napoletana, photo

Potato Rolls, photo

Providence-Style Pizza, photo

Puff Pastry, photo

Scones, photo

Sonora, about

Sponge Cake

Streusel for Muffins

Whole-Egg Dough for Tagliatelle, Maltagliata, Pappardelle, and Tagliolini, photo

Sonora soft white wheat

Sour cherries, adding to Muffins

Sourdough Durum Loaf

Sourdough Loaf, photo

Sourdough starter. See Levain

Spelt

about

Canederli, photo

Spence, Brad

Spiller, Monica

Sponge Cake

Stand mixers, 2.1, 2.2

Starch quality, defined

Stone mills, 1.1, 1.2

Storage, 1.1, 2.1

Storage containers

Storing

bread

pasta

Stracciatella and Tomato Pizza Topping, photo

Streusel for muffins

Striped Bass (Philadelphia)

Sunflower seeds

adding to Shortbread Cookies

Rye Bread

Supermarkets, buying flour and wheat berries from

 

Tagliatelle, Maltagliata, Pappardelle, and Tagliolini, Whole-Egg Dough for, photo

Tagliolini, Tagliatelle, Maltagliata, and Pappardelle, Whole-Egg Dough for, photo

Thermometers, 2.1, 3.1

Tomato(es)

and Olive Pizza Topping

Pepperoni Pizza Topping

Ragù Bolognese

and Stracciatella Pizza Topping, photo

Tomato sauce

in Meat Lovers Pizza Topping

in Mushroom Pizza Topping

Tonnarelli and Pici, Flour-and-Water Dough for, photo

Tratto (Phoenix), 5.1, 5.2

 

Veal

Ragù Bolognese

Vetri (Philadelphia), 1.1, 4.1

Vetri, Marc, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 4.1

 

Walnuts

adding to Chocolate Chip Cookies

adding to Muffins

Carrot Cake, photo

ground, adding to Brownies

Warthog hard red winter wheat

Washington State University Bread Lab, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 3.1

Water, filtered, for recipes

Water absorption

Wheat. See also Milling; specific wheat types

ancient grains

durum wheat

Hagberg Number of

hard red winter wheat

hard versus soft

hard winter wheat

life cycle, harvest, and processing

origin

protein counts

red versus white

soft white wheat

species

varieties

water absorption measurements

winter versus spring

Wheat berries

buying from a supermarket

buying wheat berries from farmers or millers

components of

defined

proper storage

Whipped Cream

White, Michael

Whole Grain Connection

Whole Wheat Croissants, photo

Williamsburg Hotel (Brooklyn), 1.1, 3.1, 6.1

 

Yeast. See also Biga; Levain

about

versus levain

Yeasted Ciabatta, photo

Yeasted Loaf