Bradshaw’s Descriptive Railway Hand-Book

The line passes through a fine and highly cultivated country, and reaches the station at

A short distance from a small hamlet on the coast, which has some admirers as a retired watering place.

ARUNDEL is situated on the declivity of a steep hill, which commands a fine prospect. At the foot of this eminence runs the river Arun, over which is built a handsome stone bridge. From the Worthing Road the appearance of the town, with its stately castle, extensive park, and winding river, is singularly beautiful. On the north-east part of the town stands the

CASTLE, which has the remarkable privilege of entitling its owner to the dignity of an earl without creation. It is in the possession of the Howard family. The late Duke of Norfolk restored it to its former magnificence, and it is now one of the most elegant Gothic residences in England. The situation of the castle is one of great beauty. It stands on an eminence, embosomed in a luxuriant grove, and commands a fine and extensive view of the surrounding country, the sea, and the Isle of Wight.

The line passes on a level, with the open sea on one side and the South Downs on the other, and reaches the station at

The station of Woodgate communicates with Bognor, a pleasant bathing place, towards the south.

BOGNOR is a pleasant bathing place, with good beach, crescent, &c., and much frequented, the air being very pure, and the situation delightful. It was made a market town in 1822, and owes its rise to Sir Richard Hotham, in 1785.

COACHES. —To and from Godalming, daily; Petworth, and Midhurst, thrice weekly.

FAIRS. — St. George’s Day, Whit Monday, St. James’s Day, Michaelmas Day, and ten days after

Like Chester, Chichester is an old town on the square Roman plan, but the marks of antiquity are less decided. The Romans called it Regni, but Cista, the king of the south Saxons christened it Cisaceaster, from which the modern name is corrupted. It is a clean neatly built cathedral city and parliamentary borough (returns two members), in Sussex, on the South Coast Railway, 16 miles from Portsmouth. Four principal streets within the site of the ancient walls intersect at the middle, where stands Bishop Story’s decorated English Market Cross. This prelate also founded the Grammar School, 1497, in which Archbishop Juxom, the learned Selden, and Collins and Hardis, the poets, were educated. The Guildhal ; was once the chapel to a friary. The last of the four gates was removed when the gaol was built, 1783, there are eight churches, some of which suffered in the civil war, two being actually dismantled by the royalists, 1642, to strengthen the walls.

The CATHEDRAL is a cross building of the 12th century, 314 feet long, or 377 feet with the Lady chapel, and 133 feet through the transept. Norman and early English work prevails in the nave and the north transept. The Lady chapel, over the Richmond vault, was built about 1300, and contains the library of old books. Several new stained windows have been added lately. In the north aisle is Flaxman’s monument to Collins (who was born here 1720) reading the best of books, as Johnson describes him in his last days. Another monument to Huskisson the statesman. Bernardi’s paintings in the style of Holbein, and a series of so-called portraits of kings and bishops since the Conquest may be noticed. In the cloisters called “Paradise,” 200 feet long, is the monument of Chillingworth the great “propugnator invictissimus” (i. e., invincible bruiser of the Protestants) who died here, 1643. He was a man of little stature, but a great controversialist, so that Anthony à Wood said, “If the great Turk or the devil could be converted, he was able to do it.” At the north-west corner is the bell tower, 120 feet high, standing by itself. The fine eight-sided spire is 300 feet high. At the Bishop’s Palace is a chapel partly as old as Henry III., and an old timber-roofed hall and kitchen. It was first built by Bishop Sherborne about 1530. Selsey (8 miles) near Selsey Bill, in the English Channel, was the seat of the bishopric, till it was moved to Chichester by the Normans, 1075. There is an old church. The sea now covers the site of some monastic buildings.

Goodwood (three miles), seat of the Duke of Richmond, stands in a large park under the South Downs. Here the July races are held, and which are always attended by the haut ton and the leading members of the Turf. It is about six miles round, and well wooded, and contains two cork trees, and about 1,000 cedars, planted 1762. From the grotto on Cairney seat (built out of a ruined church), is a fine view of the coast, Isle of Wight, the Downs, &c. The house was built by Sir W. Chambers, and enlarged by Wyattville, with centre and wings. It is 378 feet long, the wings falling back at angles of 45 feet. Stone and flint are used. In the hall is a standard and other trophies from Waterloo (which the late Duke attended as an amateur). The drawing room is 58 feet long. One portrait is that of a beautiful Duchess of Richmond of Charles II.’s time—the original, it is said, of Britannia on the copper coinage. Large stables and dog kennels (the latter cost 6,000l. ) with a tennis-court, are behind.

The junction of the South Coast and South Western Lines is at Portcreek, between Havant and Cosham, but it is necessary to go to Portsmouth to pass from one line to the other.

BANKERS. —Branch of the Bank of England; Grant, Gillham and Long; National Provincial Bank of England.

PORTSMOUTH, the first naval port in the British Islands, and a parliamentary borough &c., 75 miles, from London by the South Western Line or 95 by way of the Brighton and South Coast Line).

Portsmouth, Portsea, Southsea, &c., are seated on a low island, about 4 miles long, between Portsmouth and Langstone Harbours, and inside the Spithead anchorage, and the Isle of Wight, whose beautiful hills are seen about 5 miles over the water. The Dockyard is at Portsea; and on the Gosport side of the harbour are the Victualling Office, Haslar Hospital, and other establishments. Portsdown Hill is to the north.

Portsmouth is the principal rendezvous of the British navy. It is situated on the western side of the island of Portsea, at the mouth of the bay termed Portsmouth Harbour, and consists of the old town of Portsmouth, included within its fortified walls, and the new towns of Portsea and Southsea. Portsmouth Harbour ranks among the first in Great Britain, for its capaciousness, depth, and security. At its entrance it is very narrow, but soon expands to a great width. The anchorage is good in all parts, the depth sufficient for ships of any draught, the shelter complete, and the extent capable of accommodating the entire navy of England. One thousand sail can ride at anchor in the celebrated roadstead of Spithead, between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight.

The power of the English navy consists in the vast collection of materials, the number of ships, the skill and experience of the officers, and the excellence of the seamen nurtured in a commercial marine which traverses every sea. Add to this the vast wealth, accumulated capital, and untold treasures of the United Kingdom, the production of previous and still sustained industry, all of which give life and energy to the other resources of the empire, and then we possess the real causes of the naval superiority of Great Britain.

Portsmouth has very little to offer in its buildings, or in the country in its neighbourhood, which is flat and uninteresting. There is no beautiful or striking scenery to please the eye; but its chief attractions consist in the fortifications, the dockyard, the men-of-war, the sailors and soldiers, and other features of a Government town—all of which are full of interest to a mere civilian, especially if fresh from the interior. The fortified lines, in particular, should be noticed, as Portsmouth (including Portsea) is a specimen rare in these islands, but common enough abroad, of a perfect English fortress, being inclosed in ramparts, bastions, ravelins, wet ditches, glacis, &c., constructed on scientific principles, and defended by batteries commanding all the most accessible points landward and seaward. The only entrances are by the four or five drawbridges and gates in the ramparts. Beyond these are the populous and increasing suburbs of Landport, Kingston, Southsea, &c. Southsea, in front of Spithead, is rising into a fashionable bathing-place; many good houses and villas, and a new church have been built; and though it stands low, the situation is open and healthy. Hollingworth’s Subscription Rooms are on the beach; bathing and boats at all times, and an excellent promenade, laid out by the late Lord Fitzclarence, when Lieutenant-Governor, but disfigured by two ridiculous statues of Nelson and Wellington. It was at this spot that Nelson, accompanied by Hardy, embarked for the last time on the 14th of September, 1805, to hoist his flag on board the Victory; he was attended by the tears and blessings of the crowd—the scene was wonderfully affecting. “I had their hurrahs before,” said the poor shattered hero, “now I have their hearts!” About three months later the Victory, which now lies in the harbour, came back again with his remains on board. About ¼ mile along the beach is Southsea Castle, which, like Cumberland Fort, 3 miles further, is regularly fortified. The latter has room for four regiments.

St. Thomas’s Church, in High-street, with a gilt ship over the cupola for its vane, is a venerable old cross, built in 1220, but altered and re-edified since that date. One monument is to Charles II.’s favourite, the Duke of Buckingham, who was stabbed by Felton in an old-fashioned house at the top of the street, now marked No. 10. The Registry contains the entry of Charles II.’s marriage, 22nd May, 1662, with Catherine of Portugal, who brought him Bombay for her dowry On the parade, which every one should attend for the daily guard-mounting at 11 a.m., is the church of an old religious house; here the garrison musters, and many officers in both services are interred. There is a fine prospect of Spithead from the ramparts here.

In St. Mary’s-street lived John Pounds, a poor crippled cobbler, who may claim to be the founder of Ragged Schools. Working all day long at his trade he enticed the indigent children from the streets, and before his death, in 1839, had taught hundreds of them on a plan of his own.

At the bottom of High Street is a rather picturesque brick bridge, to Point, designed by Inigo Jones. Trading vessels lie up in the Camber, near this. From the lower end of Point, the floating bridge runs to Gosport. Here a boat may be taken for the Victory; she lies a little above the Neptune flag-ship. A brass plate marks the spot on which Nelson fell, shot through the shoulder. The uniform he wore is now at Greenwich; and the shot itself was in the possession of his physician, the late Sir W. Beattie.

The DOCKYARD covers 117 acres, with a water front of 4-5ths of a mile; it was begun by Henry VII. and his son Henry VIII., who here built the Harry Grace à Dieu, a large unwieldly hulk, the largest ship of her day. Apply at the gate for permission to go through the yard; you write your name down, and as soon as a party of about half a dozen is made up, a policeman takes you round. If you are a foreigner, you should apply to the Admiralty, through your Ambassador, for an order, or should you resemble one in appearance, it is advisable to provide yoursel with an Admiralty order. Among other thing. you will see the Rope House, 1,100 feet long, where hempen cables of 2,400 yarns and two feet round are twisted; anchors of all sizes up to five tons, and the forges where they are made, with Nasmyth’s wonderful steam hammer at work; Brunel’s block machinery, which will, with ease, make 140,000 blocks yearly, (1,400 are required for a 74 gun ship); the building slips and sheds, from which ships of 130 guns are launched; new factories, and basins for steamers, and the screws, storehouses of every description; a statue of William III. and models, at the Naval College. Vast quantities of timber are left to season in the Ponds and on Common Hard, as a preservative from dry-rot. There is an armoury at the gun wharf, which is a branch of the Woolwich Arsenal.

Several ships in “ordinary,” i. e., laid by for future occasion, are moored up and down the harbour; but when ready for service, their place is Spithead roadstead, outside, so called from the Spit sand which lies to the west. There Sir Charles Napier’s fleet, including the great screw-ship, the Duke of Wellington, of 131 guns, was reviewed by the Queen, in her beautiful yacht, the Victoria and Albert.

To this anchorage, Hawke, Howe, St. Vincent, Exmouth, &c., brought their prizes after their various triumphs. One buoy marks where the “Royal George,” with Admiral Kempenfeldt and 300 seamen, besides women and landsmen, sunk at her anchors, 1782: only a few escaped, one of whom was the late Sir P. Durham. Her hull, after lying whole at the bottom of the sea, was at length blown up by electricity, in 1839; articles are still sold at Portsmouth as made from her well-seasoned timbers. The Royal William, or old Billy, flag-ship, used to lie here; when broken up she was above 100 years old. Osborne House, the seat of Her Majesty, Ryde, and other beautiful parts of the Isle of Wight, are here easily discerned; also vessels lying at the Motherbank, close to the Island; and Stokes Bay, at which place it is contemplated to erect a floating steam bridge, so as to connect the Isle of Wight with the intended line from hence to the Gosport station, where the rate of steamers is tried.

Within a short distance from Portsmouth, excursions may be made to the Isle of Wight (see page 87 ) and the following places:—Porchester Castle, at the top of Portsmouth harbour, can be reached by boat (the pleasantest way, passing all the men of war), or by railway. It is the Portus Magnus of the Romans, and stands under Portsdown Hill. To the genuine walls, 8 to 12 feet thick, of the original founders, a great square keep, and other additions, some as late as Queen Elizabeth’s reign, have been added. In one corner of the space they enclose (about 620 feet square) is an ancient church. A pretty walk, through the village, leads up to the Nelson Obelisk on the Portsdown Hill. This chalk ridge is 400 to 500 feet high, and has several good points of view, embracing the port and sea to the south, and a richly wooded tract to the north, most of which belongs to the Thistlethwaytes of Southwick, where are some remains of a priory in which Henry VI. was married to Margaret of Anjou. Near Purbrook is Merchistoun, the seat of Admiral Sir Charles Napier, not far off the mansion of his cousin, the late General Sir C. Napier, the conqueror of Scinde. Leigh Park, near Havant, the seat of Sir G. Staunton, Bart. From Havant, at the east end of Portsdown, looking down on Chichester Cathedral, there is a bridge to Hayling Island, a flat pasture tract like its neighbour, and separated from it by Langstone harbour. A quiet bathing place has been established at Hayling. Portsdown Fair begins July 26th.

Conveyances by railway to Southampton, Winchester, London, Dorchester, Chichester, Brighton, Hastings, Dover, &c. By steamers to Ryde, Cowes, Southampton, several times a day, from the Albert and Victoria piers; to Plymouth and Liverpool once a week.

The main branches of this railway communicate with the suburbs of London, and are mostly celebrated for their picturesque beauty, viz.:—Richmond, Windsor, Kew, and the valley of the Thames, Hampton Court, Kingston, Claremont, Guildford, &c.; also with Portsmouth, Winchester, Southampton, Salisbury, Isle of Wight, and Weymouth, via Dorchester.

Of all the many alluring rambles held forth to the tourist who wishes to avail himself of the speedy communication by rail with some of the most picturesque scenery in England, there is no line that possesses more intrinsic advantages, or which intersects in its various routes so many places of glorious memory as the South Western, from the metropolis to the south-western coast of Hampshire and Devonshire.

The METROPOLITAN TERMINUS of the South Western is at Waterloo Road. Omnibuses convey passengers to and from all parts of town. The terminus is a spacious building, admirably adapted for the different railway offices and the various departments connected with the Company. The gentle pace at which the trains first move afford time for observing the extensive engine houses and workshops at Nine Elms. The line passes over viaducts or arches through a part of the densely populated parish of Lambeth, over the tops of houses, past the grounds of Lambeth Palace, in a line with which is Lambeth Church, and across the river may be seen the splendid towers of the new Houses of Parliament.

THIS is one of the most interesting, if not the most fertile, of the English counties. Almost the whole surface of the county is undulating, and consists of hill and dale, intersecting each other in every variety of form. In some parts extensive heaths give an air of wildness to the prospect which is strikingly contrasted by the innumerable beauties scattered over the surface of the county by the hand of art, while the hills, which frequently approach the height of mountains, decline into richly wooded dales and plains, covered with luxuriant harvests. In many parts the landscapes are diversified with picturesque uplands, romantic heights, woodland dells, verdant vallies, and plains covered with waving corn. The most striking feature of the county, however, is its extensive chalky downs, lying nearly in the centre. The railway communications of the county are numerous, and intersect it in all directions.

STEAM VESSELS to London Bridge, and Chelsea, Pimlico, Fulham, Battersea, Wandsworth, Putney, Richmond, Kew, and Hammersmith Bridge (calling at all the piers on the banks of the river), every five minutes.

Thence we pass on through Vauxhall, and entering upon an embankment bounded on each side by spacious market gardens, the line passes Battersea New Town and park on the one hand, and Battersea Rise and Clapham on the other, at which point the Richmond, Staines, and Windsor line diverges to the right, while the main line turns off towards the left to Wimbledon.

As the Richmond and Windsor railway is the first branch of the South Western, we will commence our description with that.

The Richmond line properly branches off about the point where the road to the village of Battersea leaves the Wandsworth road, and at a short distance from Battersea. It then pursues a pretty course through the villas, orchards, and nursery gardens which stud that locality, till it reaches Wandsworth. The river Wandle and the valley are crossed by a splendid viaduct.

This station, situated iswithin a short distance of the parish that gives it the name of Wandsworth, which with the other suburban districts we have passed through, contains a number of elegant villas, belonging to the opulent class of city merchants. On leaving Wandsworth we have for a moment a picturesque peep at the Thames, and the line pursues a suetherly direction throngh a deep cutting of some extent, until we reach

OMNIBUSES to London, via Fulham, Chelsea, and Brompton, every quarter of an hour.

STEAM BOATS. —To London every hour, calling at the different Piers on the river side, and to Richmond, Hammersmith, and Kew, daily, in summer.

On emerging from the cutting and passing this station, we proceed over a level country to Barnes Common, which the line crosses.

BARNES is memorable, among other associations, as being the place where Sir Francis Walsingham entertained Queen Elizabeth and her retinue, at an enormous expense, though the next year he died at his house in Seething Lane so poor, that his friends were obliged to bury him privately at night. The church, about a quarter of a mile from the river, is one of the most ancient in the neighbourhood of the metropolis, having been erected in the reign of Richard I. (1189). Here lived Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, the founder and secretary of the Kit-Cat Club.

It diverges from the Richmond line at Barnes station, and is carried across the river Thames, in front of Barnes-terrace, by means of a light and elegant bridge, consisting of three arches. From this the line proceeds through the property of the Duke of Devonshire; and the first station, CHISWICK, is placed at the southernmost corner of his Grace’s park. This station, besides accommodating the residents, is within a very short distance of the Horticultural Society’s Gardens, and is one of the principal means of approach on fete and other days. The railway then passes on to Kew Bridge, where it crosses the turnpike road.

KEW, a picturesque village on the banks of the Thames, about seven miles from London, and one mile from Richmond. The palace contains a few pictures, but the gardens are the principal objects of attraction. They are not very large, nor is their situation advantageous, as it is low and commands no prospects; but they contain the finest collection of plants in this country, and are decorated with various ornamental buildings. The first which appears is the orangery, or green-house. Near it, in a grove, is the temple of the Sun, of the Corinthian order. There is also a medico-botanical garden, and contiguous to it. the flower garden, of which the principal entrance forms one end. The two sides are enclosed with high trees, and the other end is occupied by an aviary of vast depth. From the flower garden, a short winding walk leads to the menagerie, the centre of which is occupied by a large basin of water, originally stocked with curious water-fowl, and enclosed by a range of cages of exotic birds. The gardens also contain the temples of Bellona, the gods Pan, Æolus, Solitude, and Victory, the House of Confucius and the great Pagoda, 165 feet high, from the top of which is an extensive view of a rich and variegated country. The Palm House is one of the finest in Europe; it cost upwards of £30,000.

The royal pleasure grounds are open to the public on Thursdays and Sundays, from Midsummer until Michaelmas. The Botanic Gardens are also open every day from one till six.

“So sits enthroned in vegetable pride

Imperial Kew, by Thames’s glistening side,

Obedient sails from realms unfurrow’d bring

For her the unnamed progeny of spring.”

From this point the line passes principally through market gardens to Boston Lane, where the Brentford station is conveniently placed.

MARKET DAY. —Tuesday. FAIRS. —May 17th, 18th, and 19th; Sept. 12th, 13th, and 14th.

BRENTFORD has a weekly market and two annual fairs. It is the county town, where members of Parliament are elected. Here the Brent falls into the Thames. The town is a long straggling street.

ISLEWORTH, with its picturesque ivy-mantled church tower, was noted for affording excellent sport to anglers. The salmon caught in this part of the Thames was formerly of a peculiarly fine quality, but the gas works and steam navigation have driven them higher up the stream.

This place, however, is still frequented by anglers, who consider there is not finer fishing any where than in the Thames from Kew to Richmond.

Sion House, the magnificent edifice of the Duke of Somerset, where Lady Jane Grey resided, now belonging to the Duke of Northumberland, was built here, on the site of a suppressed nunnery. The grounds form a fine lawn, extending from Brentford to Isleworth.

A great portion of the line is but a few feet above the natural surface of the country, and many of the roads are crossed on a level. The country through which it passes does not present many picturesque views, the property almost throughout being circumscribed by orchards and market gardens. The want, however, of the beautiful along the line is amply compensated by the lovely views in the neighbourhood of Richmond; and from Richmond to Datchet there is a succession of splendid scenery.

The remainder of the course is through fields and gardens, passing a little to the south of the grounds of Kew, or to the terminus in the Kew Road at Richmond.

OMNIBUSES to and from the station; also to London, via Kew, Hammersmith, and Kensington; conveyances also to Hampton, Kingston, and Twickenham. These are the fastest and best appointed vehicles out of London.

STEAM VESSELS from London, calling at Putney, Hammersmith Bridge, and Kew, daily in summer.

RICHMOND is a delightful town in Surrey, on the South Western Railway and the river Thames, 10 miles from London, in the midst of scenery which, though often praised and admired, never grows old or wearisome. It may be also reached by the omnibus from St. Paul’s, every hour and half hour, or by the Hampton Court steamer from London and Hungerford Bridges. The last way is the best for enjoying the scenery of the river above Richmond; but the shoals and the long bends or reaches make it rather tedious, especially at low tides. The town stands on an eminence on the south bank of the Thames—it extends about a mile up the hill—and is skirted and intermingled with agreeable gardens.

Richmond had a royal palace from the time of Edward I., called Sheen, i.e. Shining, till Henry VII. gave it the title which he bore as Earl of Richmond, borrowed from his castle of that name in Yorkshire, and revived by Charles I. for the ancestor of the Lennox family. Both places are seated on a high point, “Riche-mont,” overlooking a vast range of country. A brick gate and some old walls on one side of the Green are the sole remnants of the palace, which Henry VIII. gave to Wolsey in exchange for Hampton Court, but as it soon returned to the crown it became the residence of Elizabeth, who died here in 1603, and of Henrietta Maria, the queen of Charles I. On the green in front tournaments were held before Henry VII. and Henry VIII. This place is also noted for having had the earliest calico print works established in it (1696) by a Frenchman—these have since thriven in a more congenial spot. The old park was behind the palace, and now makes part of Kew Gardens; the great park, on the top of the hill, was not enclosed till Charles I.’s time. In ascending to it you pass the brick church in which Thomson the poet, Mrs. Yates, and Kean the actors, Dr. Moore the author of “Zeluco” and father of Sir John Moore, are buried; it contains also Flaxman’s monument of Mrs. Lowther. Thomson died at Rosedale House, now the Dowager Countess of Shaftesbury’s seat, and here his desk, garden seat, &c. are to be seen. The sight of the church put Collins in mind of writing his pretty lines on him, beginning, “In yonder shade a Druid lies.” At the top of the hill, half a mile from the town, where Sir J. Reynolds’s house stands, you catch the splendid prospect so often celebrated:—

“Thy hill, delightful Shene! Here let us sweep

The boundless landscape. Now the raptured eye

Exulting, swift to huge Augusta^* send,

Now to the sister hills † that skirt her plain.

To lofty Harrow bow, and now to where

Majestic Windsor lifts his princely brow.

* * * *

Slow let us trace the matchless vale of Thames;

Fair windng-up to where the muses haunt

In Twit’ham’s bowers— * *

* * to Royal Hampton’s pile,

To Claremont’s terraced heights and Esher’s groves.”

THOMSON .

It would be worth while to read the noble lines which follow this quotation in the poet’s “Summer,” sitting under elms on this spot; there is a glow and dignity in them equal to the magnificence of the prospect spread out before one’s eyes. The great lodge which was Sir R. Walpole’s seat, Pembroke Lodge, the seat of Earl Russell, and the New Terrace, offer some of the best points of view in the park. The Marquis of Lansdowne, the mansion now occupied by the Duchess of Gloucester, formerly the seat of Lord Sidmouth, called the Ranger’s Lodge, and many more, have houses on or round the hill.

The Wesleyan body have a COLLEGE here for their theological students—a handsome Tudor range, 250 feet long, in which is a good statue of their founder. Close to the bridge (built in 1747, and still taxed) are three small aits or wooded islands. The railway viaduct strides across on three wide arches below.

Within a few miles are Kew Gardens and its pagoda; Twickenham, the favourite retreat of Pope; East Sheen, where Sir W. Temple lived. Ham, the ancient seat of the Dysart family, in which the famous John, Duke of Argyle was born (Scott, in his “Heart of Mid Lothian,” brings him to Richmond Park, to introduce Jeanie Deans to Queen Caroline), and Hampton Court, with its half Tudor, half French palace, pictures, cartoons, Lely beauties, gardens, and other attractions.

The line crosses the Thames over the railway bridge at Richmond—a very handsome structure of three arches.

TWICKENHAM is a most picturesque village on the Thames. Between Richmond bridge and this village is a rural walk, on the border of the river; and probably no promenade of a similar extent, in any part of England, presents a display of scenery so soft and so highly cultivated. The margin of the Thames is lined with stately dwellings, whose ornamental grounds descend to the water’s edge; among which stood the residence of Pope. Here he translated a part of the Iliad, and wrote the Dunciad, the Essay on Man, &c., and hence are dated a great number of his letters; here also he died. Twickenham Ait, on which stands the Eel-pie House, is a little below the deep.

A line of railway here turns off to the left, and running through the village of TEDDINGTON, passes along the side of the Thames on the one hand and Bushey Park on the other to HAMPTON WICK, and

STAINES is a pleasant market town, in the county of Middlesex, standing on the north bank of the Thames, over which is thrown a bridge, which connects the counties of Middlesex and Surrey. In the old records it is called Stana, a Saxon word for a stone, and Camden supposes that the name was derived from a stone which was fixed on the banks of the river, to mark the extent of the authority of the city of London over the Thames, westward. This town contains a handsome church, besides which there are other places of public worship for dissenters. Nearly all the houses extend along the sides of the high road, but there are a considerable number built in other directions.

A little northward of Staines Bridge is the City Boundary Stone, on which is inscribed, “God preserve the City of London, A.D. 1280.” This marks the limit of the Lord Mayor’s jurisdiction over the Thames. When the civic authorities make their tour of inspection, they disembark here, and wine is placed for them on the said stone; and such Sheriffs and Aldermen as are not “Free of the Water,” are bumped at the stone.

The first Station from the Junction at Staines, is WRAYSBURY, near the confluence of the Colne with the Thames; Cooper’s Hill and Runnymede.

This is a parliamentary borough (two members), with a population of 9,520, and a few public buildings, such as the Town Hall, built 1686, containing several royal portraits, and the modern church, in which are some of G. Gibbon’s carvings; but the chief attractions are the Castle and Park, the seat of her majesty the Queen, and of her ancestors from the period of the Conquest.

Windsor is accessible by railway, via the South Western (25 miles), or the Great Western (21 miles)—the former by way of Datchet in front of the Castle—the latter by Slough and Eton.

WINDSOR is built on the banks of the Thames, and has long been celebrated for its royal Castle and Park. It is situated on a hill which commands a delightful prospect over the adjacent country. It was first built by William the Conqueror, soon after his being seated on the throne of this kingdom, Edward III. was born here, and had such an affection for the spot that he caused the old building to be pulled down, and a magnificent palace to be erected on its site, under the direction of the celebrated William of Wykeham; and re-established the princely order of the Garter.

No Briton can view unmoved the stately towers of “Windsor’s castled keep.” The mind is irresistibly carried back to the time when the Norman conqueror so far bent the stubborn necks of our Saxon ancestors, as to compel them to extinguish their fires on the sound of the innovating curfew. Rival houses have in turn held regal sway within its storied walls. Its history is the history of our country, and some of its “brightest and blackest” pages are inseparably linked with the towers that arrest the eye of the traveller as he approaches the station. Its annals take us back to times when the rebellious Barons compelled King John, in its immediate neighbourhood, to sign the first great charter of our country’s rights. York and Lancaster have each struggled for its possession. It has witnessed the extinction of royal houses, and sheltered within its walls the representative of England’s short-lived Commonwealth. Within its precincts the Tudors have signed decrees to light the fires of Smithfield, and Cromwell has declared to Continental despotism, that no man shall be persecuted on account of his protestantism. Great names, too, are associated with its annals, and he who has read the history of his country can pass in review, before his mind’s eye, a long list of warriors, statesmen, churchmen, poets, and others, celebrated for their virtues or their talents, while he is also forcibly reminded that many names are mixed up with its history which he would willingly consign to oblivion.

The castle is divided into two courts, the upper and the lower, separated from each other by the Round Tower. On the north side of the upper court are situated the state apartments, and on the south the various apartments belonging to the officers of state. The lower court is chiefly remarkable as containing that beautiful structure St. George’s Chapel.

The Castle. —The State Apartments are open on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 11 until 6. Tickets gratis, at Moon’s, New Oxford Street; Colnaghi’s, 14, Pall Mall East; Mitchell’s, 33, Old Bond Street; Ackermann’s, 96, Strand. Guide books may be had, from Id. to 1s. These tickets are available for a week from the day of issue, but not transferable; and no payment is to be made to the servants at the Castle. The private apartments are always closed, but a good panorama of their contents may be seen at Taylor’s Illustrated Gallery, High-street, Windsor; admittance, 1s. Guide Books, 2d. each. Choral service at St. George’s Chapel at 10½ and 4.

There is an ascent by the postern steps to the Castle for visitors arriving by the South Western rail; or you may go round to Henry VIII.’s gate, which leads into the town. It stands on a site of 12 acres, on the summit of a hill, commanding a magnificent view from the terrace, which is 1,870 feet, or ⅓ of a mile long. The great circular keep (open daily) from which the standard waves when the Queen is here, divides the upper and lower ward; it is about 150 feet above the quadrangle, or 300 feet above the park, and machicolated round the top, like most of the towers here. Twelve counties are visible in clear weather from the keep. Here state prisoners were confined. Since 1824 the restoration of the Castle, carried on by Sir Jeffry Wyattville has cost about £900,000. The state rooms, private apartments, &c. are in the upper ward; St. George’s church, the deanery, apartments of the knights, baronets, &c. in the lower, as you enter from Henry VIII.’s gate.

The state apartments should be visited in the following order:—They are on the north side of the quadrangle.

Audience Chamber. —Ceiling by Verrio. Coronation of Esther, and the triumph of Mordecai, in Gobelin tapestry; portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, the “daughter, consort, and mother of kings,” as she is styled.

Presence Chamber. —Charles II.’s queen, Katherine, on the ceiling. Subjects from Esther, in tapestry. Myten’s portrait of George I.’s mother. Gibbon’s carved work. Bacon’s mantel-piece. This room is generally used as the ball room.

Guard Chamber. —Old armour, including that of John of France (taken at Poitiers), and David of Scotland (captured at Neville’s cross), both of whom were prisoners here in the reign of Edward III., who was born in the Castle, 1312. Also Henry, Prince of Wales, (son of James I.), Prince Rupert’s, &c. Chantrey’s bust of Nelson, on a stand made out of the Victory’s mast. Busts of Marlborough and Wellington (the latter by Chantrey), with the yearly banners presented to the Queen, on 2nd August and 18th June, for Blenheim and Waterloo. Henry VIII.’s shield, by B. Cellini, the famous goldsmith.

St. George’s Banqueting Hall —206 feet long, 34 feet broad; Gothic ceiling, full of escutcheons of the Knights of the Garter since 1350. Portraits of sovereigns from James I., by Vandyke, Lely, Kneller, &c. Throne, chair of state, &c. in oak. Knights of the Garter are here knighted.

Ball Room —90 feet long, by 34 broad; one fine Gothic window; furniture of the time of Louis XIV. (“Louis Quatorze” style); Emperor of Russia’s malachite vase; Jason and the Golden Fleece, in tapestry.

Throne Room. —Carvings by Gibbons; ornaments of the Order of the Garter, in the ceiling and carpet; with portraits by Lawrence, &c.

Waterloo or Grand Dining Room is 98 feet long, and 45 high to the lantern ceiling, In the Elizabethan style. Full of portraits, &c. of Waterloo men, sovereigns, and statesmen of that age; carvings by Gibbons; oak furniture; most of the portraits by Lawrence; among them are Picton, Anglesey, Wellington, Hill, Blucher, Castlereagh, Metternich, Pope Pius VI,, Cardinal Gonsalvi (one of the best), Emperor Alexander, Platoff, Canning, and Humboldt.

State Ante-room. —Verrio’s Banquet of the Gods, in the ceiling; tapestry, Gibbons’ carvings; Reynolds’ George III.

Small Vestibule, near the Waterloo Room. Large paintings by West, of the events in Edward III.’s reign. Carvings by Gibbons.

Rubens’ Room. —All paintings by Rubens’ mostly life size, including his portrait by himself, his wife, Battle of Nordlingen, &c. Fine view from the Oriel; and chair made of wood from old Alloway Kirk.

Council Chamber of Charles II.’s time Kneller’s Duke of Marlborough, Lely’s Charles II. and Prince Rupert. Pictures by Flemish masters, &c.

King’s Closet, adorned with marine emblems. Quentin Matsys’ misers, and other pictures, Flemish, Italian, &c.

Queen’s Closet. —A small room with “Adelaide Regina, 1853,” in the roof. Charles II. and William III.’s silver tables. George IV.’s state bed. Portraits by Holbein, pictures by C. Lorraine, Teniers, &c.

Vandyck Room. —Portraits by Vandyck of Charles 1, his Queen, and family, Sir K. Digby, Duchess of Richmond, &c.

On the south and east sides of the quadrangle are the Queen’s private apartments. In the middle is a bronze statue of Charles II. with bas-reliefs by Gibbons.

St. George’s Collegiate Church, in the Lower Ward, was first built by Edward III, and rebuilt by George III, It is a long straggling cross in the decorated Gothic style, with battlements, buttresses, &c., and a highly ornamented roof. The stalls and banners for the Knights of the Garter are in the choir. The windows are painted with subjects from West and Williment; that in the east window is the Resurrection by the former. There are various chapels and monuments; one of the oldest being that by Canon Ovenbridge, in 1522, near the cenotaph to the Princess Charlotte. In a vault near the fourth stall, Henry VI. and Henry VIII. are buried. (Henry VI. was born in the Castle.) Edward IV, is also buried here under a curious tomb of iron work by Matsys; and George III. and most of his family lie in the Tomb House or Mausoleum at the east end. George III.’s affectionate tablet to Mary Gaskoine, servant to his daughter Amelia, is in the cloisters.

There is a descent by the hundred steps to the town near the apartments for the Naval Knights. The Military Knights are lodged in the Lower Ward, they were established by Henry VIII. and paid 1s. per day. The Dean and Chapter were also allowed 1s. per day out of the same fund; but while the emoluments of this body have been made to increase with the relative value of money, that of the Knights has remained the same.

The York and Lancaster gate, or main entrance to the Castle, fronts the Long Avenue. The Little Park is about four miles round. It contains Adelaide Lodge, at the bottom of the pretty slopes, the Royal Gardens; and Frogmore, the seat of the late Duchess of Kent; but Herne’s Oak with “great ragged horns,” to which the Merry Wives of Windsor inveigled Falstaff, disguised like Herne, with huge horns on his head, was cut down many years ago, though another tree has taken its name in Queen Elizabeth’s walk.

From the Castle gate a noble avenue of tall spreading elms, three miles long, and nearly 300 ft. broad, leading to the great Park, to Snow Hill, a low eminence surmounted by Westmacott’s massive statue of George III, 66 ft. high, including the pedestal. Cooper’s Hill, Runnymede, and the Thames, Harrow Hill, &c. are visible. Here the scenery becomes wild and forest like. The original Windsor Forest extended over 15 or 20 miles, almost to Reading. Near this is Cranbourne Lodge in the neighbourhood of the Conqueror’s Oak, an ancient tree, nine or ten centuries old, 26 ft. in girth and quite-hollow. Queen Anne’s, Queen Caroline’s, Queen Charlotte’s, Queen Adelaide’s and Queen Victoria’s trees are also seen, the last being bare for 50 ft. from the root.

From the statue it is two miles further to Virginia Water, for description of which, see page 70 .

Eton College, on the Bucks side of the Thames, was founded 1440 by Henry VI., upon the plan of Winchester; its object being to supply King’s College at Cambridge, as William of Wykeham’s supplies New College at Oxford. Two brick quadrangles, in one of which is the founder’s bronze statue, the chapel and upper school, built by Wren; and in the other the ancient Commons’ Hall; the new buildings are in the Tudor style, The chapel is Gothic, 175 ft. long, with turrets at each corner. Bacon’s statue (marble) of Henry VI. is under the west window. A brass of Lord Gray (1521), deserves notice; the oldest is 1424. Sir H. Wotton and John Hales are buried here. Busts of Gray, Fox, Canning, &c., in the upper school, and other Etonians. Peel, the late Duke of Wellington. Chatham, Porson, are on the list. Album, with autographs of the Queen, PrinceAlbert, Louis Philippe, &c. in the library, which contains many books, MSS., curious maps, &c. A collection of portraits at the Provost’s apartments.

At Salt Hill the Eton Montem used to be held every Whitsuntide, till 1847, when it was discontinued. Regatta on the 4th June; boat races on the last Saturday in July, at Brocus Meadows, when the seniors are elected to Kings. Further up the river is Monkey Island, and a fishing temple built by the Duke of Marlborough.

Upton Church is a complete specimen of the Norman style, and contains the grave of Sir W. Herschel the astronomer, whose observations were carried on at Slough; but the great telescope, 40 ft. long, is removed. At Stoke Pogis Church, an ancient building covered with ivy, Gray is buried; it was the scene of his beautiful Elegy in a Country Churchyard. In Stoke Park, the seat of the Penns, (descended from the founder of Pennsylvania), are some remains of an old house which belonged to Coke the great lawyer; portraits, &c., in the present mansion.

Down the river you come to Old Windsor or Windlesford, where the Saxon and early Norman kings fixed their seats at first; and Ankerwyke, the Harcourt’s seat, where there is a famous oak, 33 ft. girth, as old as the Conquest. Runnymede, which comes from the Saxon Rune-mede, or Council-field, is near Charter Island, and is the spot on which the barons (fighting, however, for their own hand as the Scotch say), extorted the Great Charter from King John in 1215. Ditton Park is Lord Montague’s seat.

The church contains tombs of Abbot John of Chertsey, and Sir J. Denham, father of the poet.

In the vicinity are Egham Lodge, seat of J. Dobinson, Esq.: Kingswood Lodge, Mrs. Read. Runnymede (½ mile), memorable as the Council Meadow, where the English Barons compelled King John to sign the Magna Charta on Trinity Monday, 15th June, 1215. Runnymede House, seat of N. Reid, Esq.; Cooper’s Hill, so beautifully described by the poet Denham. We then pass along two miles of beautiful scenery and reach

This beautiful lake, situated in Windsor Forest, was planned by the Duke of Cumberland, above 100 years ago. Open daily to the public. It is the largest piece of artificial water in the kingdom, if that can be called artificial where man has only collected the streams of the district into a natural basin. The surrounding scenery is exceedingly pleasing and picturesque. After passing through a woody dell, we come to some serpentine walks, which lead in different directions; those to the right conducting us to a somewhat steep hill, on the summit of which stands a handsome Gothic battlemented building, called Belvidere ; and those to the left leading to the margin of the lake. At the head of the lake is a cascade, descending some twenty feet, over massive fragments of stone, into a dark glen or ravine. Near it is an obelisk standing on a small mount, and bearing the following inscription, added by William IV.:—”This obelisk was raised by the command of George II., after the battle of Culloden, in commemoration of the services of his son William, Duke of Cumberland, the success of his arms, and the gratitude of his father.” There is a road hence to the banks of the lake, where we can reach a rustic bridge, and get a fine view of the waterfall and its cavern adjacent, formed of stones brought from Bagshot Heath, where they indicated the ruins of a Saxon cromlech. At the point where the lake is widest, a fishing temple was erected by George IV.

A bold arch carries the public road to Blacknest, over a portion of the grounds, and adjoining is an ornamental ruin, called the “Temple of the Gods,” manufactured from some really antique fragments of Greek columns and pediments, that used to lie in the court-yard of the British Museum. The effect is striking, and much more so if the spectator will for a moment let fancy delude him into the belief that he is gazing on a real temple of ancient Athens. The tall trees, clustering round in one part, and in another opening on to glades of truly sylvan aspect, impart a romantic beauty to the landscape from this point, which utterly defies description. It is worth while to cross the little bridge above alluded to, and, passing one of the streams that feed the lake, pursue its windings among the underwood, or strike into the path which leads to Bishopsgate, a beautiful village, environed by all the charms of wood and water diversity. Here resided for some time Shelley, who has consecrated the allurements of this spot by some of his finest poems, written in the vicinity. There are several ways of approaching Virginia Water, each so attractive that it is difficult to decide upon the best; but, by whichever route the excursionist comes, we would suggest the adoption of another road for the return. About two miles beyond the town of Egham is a neat wayside inn, called the “Wheatsheaf,” from the garden of which there is direct access to the lake. From Egham Hill a road diverges through Windsor Park to Reading, nineteen miles distant. A few hundred yards above the inn is a branch road to the right, leading to Blacknest, where there is also an entrance through the keeper’s lodge. Besides this, there is a delightful drive of five miles to Virginia Water from Chertsey.

Stoke Pogis, two miles from Slough, is hallowed ground, from containing the churchyard which suggested Gray’s well-known “Elegy,” as well as the remains of the pensive poet himself. Gray died on the 30th of July 1771, in the 55th year of his age, and was buried, according to his own affectionate wish, by the side of his mother; thus adding another poetical association to this beautiful and classic region. Burnham is a small but most picturesque village, four miles from Slough, with a marvellous miniature forest, called “Burnham Beeches”—the finest spot in the world for a pic-nic, and absolutely unrivalled for the romantic character of its sylvan scenery. There are the ruins of an Augustine nunnery close by, which, though now partly fashioned into a farm-house, had the honour of having been built by an expatriated king of the Romans, in 1228.

RACES in June. This place is celebrated for its race course on the Heath (nearly 2 miles in circuit), with a Royal Grand Stand, two stables, large coach house, commodious weighing houses, &c., all constructed by the Duke of Cumberland. The sport at these races is first-rate. They are generally attended by the Royal Family in state, and the elite of the court, nobility, and fashion of England.

On the west side of the park, five miles from the town is Ascot Heath and its Race Course. There is a Grand Stand and a separate one for the Queen. Further on, Bingfield and its beechwoods, all beautiful. Indeed the whole of Berkshire, from end to end, abounds in endless attractions to the lover of country scenery Twenty years ago Ascot Heath was as wild a district as any in Great Britain, with hardly a house visible from it but the Royal Kennels, and an apology for a race stand. Now the buildings appropriated to the turf form a little city of Olympian palaces, the most complete range of racing Chateaux extant. The sport, too, is indeed worthy of being set before a Sovereign. On most occasions there are upwards of thirty races, some of them bringing together the best horses in the land, and the whole generally go off with considerable éclat.

We shortly after reach BRACKNELL station, containing a population of 108. It has a pretty modern church, built by Coe.

Soon after rejoining the Main Line at Clapham Common, a branch to the left leads to the Crystal Palace, via Balham, Streatham, and Norwood. See page 51 .

Wimbledon Park, the seat of the Earl Spencer, is seen to the right; thence crossing the old Surrey Railway, we at the same time pass over Garratt Lane, the little village adjoining, which was formerly the scene of a mock election, rendered popular by Foote’s grotesque farce of the “Mayor of Garratt.”

The adjacent country now begins to assume a very pleasant and diversified appearance, and the patches of woodland scenery that break forth in bold relief against the distant horizon furnish an agreeable foretaste of the picturesque views yet to come. Passing beneath a few arches which connect the roads leading from various adjacent villages, we reach the station at

MERTON. — Distance from the Wimbledon station, ¾ mile. Telegraph station at Wimbledon, ¾ mile. Hotel–White Hart. The pretty village of Merton, where Lord Nelson lived, is a favourite resort of excursionists.

This is a short line connecting the South Eastern and Southern with the Western Counties; the stations being MORDEN, MITCHAM, BEDDINGTON, CROYDON, see page 51 .

This branch is intended subsequently to unite with the London and Portsmouth Direct, at Godalming, via Epsom.—At present it is opened to Leatherhead, about half-way. The stations en route from Wimbledon are OLD MALDEN,

This place is situated on the river Mole.—The church was built about the year 1346, in the form of a cross, but has since been restored.

An excursion may be made from here to Stoke d’Abernon (3½ miles), passing through Woodlands Park, the seat of J. Smith, Esq. The old church (St. Mary’s), at Stoke d’Abernon (or Alborne), lies embedded in trees, close to the Manor House (Rev. F. Parr Phillips). It contains the most ancient monumental brasses in England, and is much resorted to by antiquarians. The two most celebrated brasses to the D’Abernon family are in the chancel. The church also contains a curious hour-glass and stand, and is otherwise interesting. The key is at the Manor House.

Emerging from the excavation, we proceed onwards over on embankment, which affords one continued series of delightful views across a country which art has contributed in the highest degree to adorn, at the extremity of which a cursory glimpse of the old square tower of Kingston church is obtained.

COOMBE AND MALDEN. —The line now passes beneath two bridges, and we reach the station at

MARKET DAY. —Saturday. FAIRS. —Whit-Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, August 2nd and 3rd, November 13th, and seven following days.

KINGSTON-ON- RAILWAY, situated in a charming verdant cutting, is a new place which has sprung up in the course of a few years, from its vicinity to the railway station. It has a good street, and contains some elegant houses. The neighbouring Common is the spot on which took place the last struggle of the Royalists, in favour of Charles I., then a prisoner in Carisbrooke Castle.

Kingston-on-Thames, a mile beyond, is a market town of 9,790 inhabitants, built on the site of a Roman station, and for a time the favourite seat of the Wessex Kings, several of whom were crowned here. The very stone on which they were inaugurated is to be seen railed in, opposite the Town Hall, near Queen Anne’s statue. It is a block of Bath stone, three feet and a half long. From Kingston the line proceeds on an embankment for about five miles, affording some choice views of the richly wooded country by which this county is surrounded.

THAMES DITTON is well-known among anglers; fine barbel, roach, perch, dace, and chub, with sometimes jack and trout, may be caught.

HOTELS. —King’s Arms, first-class, for families, private and commercial gentlemen. Greyhound, family and commercial.

The situation of Hampton Court, which stands on the north bank of the Thames, about twelve miles from London, is so happily described by Pope, that we cannot resist quoting the favourite passage:—

“Close by those meads for ever crowned with flowers,

Where Thames with pride surveys his rising towers,

There stands a structure of majestic frame,

Which from the neighbouring Hampton takes its name;

Here Britain’s statesmen oft the fall foredoom

Of foreign tyrants and of nymphs at home;

Here thou great Anna, whom three realms obey,

Dost sometimes counsel take, and sometimes—tea.”

In summing up the points of its early history, we may briefly state, that in the thirteenth century the manor of Hampden was vested in the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Cardinal Wolsey, its illustrious founder, was the last of the enlightend churchmen of old, whose munificence patronised that style of building, which, originating with the ecclesiastics, seemed to end in his fall. He is supposed to have furnished the designs, and having been commenced in 1515, the building, when finished, was in so magnificent a style that it created great envy at court. The banquets and masques, so prevalent in the age of Henry VIII., were nowhere more magnificently ordered thau here; and however vast the establishment of the Cardinal, it could not have been more than sufficient for the accommodation of his train of guests. Numerous sovereigns since that time have made it their temporary abode; and the last who resided here were George II. and his Queen, since which period various members of the court have occupied the apartments, the Crown reserving the right of resuming possession. At present, about 700 decayed gentlemen and gentlewomen, with their servants, occupy offices connected with the establishment, to which they are recommended by the Lord Chamberlain. The Lion Gate, fronting the entrance to Bushey Park, is the chief avenue; and, continuing through the Wilderness, by a path overshadowed with lofty trees, we find ourselves by the side of the palace, in front of which extends a long walk, ornamented with parterres, an exotic shrubbery, and a spacious fountain in the centre. The grand east front extends 330 feet, and the grand south front 328 feet, from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren. The grand staircase and the guard chamber lead to the picture galleries, to which so many cheap catalogues furnish descriptive guides that our enumeration of their magnificent contents is unnecessary. Suffice it to say, the paintings are about 1,000 in number. Retracing our steps to the middle court, we may observe, under the archway, the flight of steps leading to Wolsey’s Hall. It is 106 feet long, forty feet wide, and illuminated by thirteen windows, each fifteen feet from the ground. On one of the panes of the bay window at the end, extending nearly to the floor, the young Earl of Surrey wrote his lines to the fair Geraldine. On each side, the walls are hung with tapestry of the most costly material and rarest workmanship, supposed to have been designed by Raphael, and are said to have formed a portion of the gifts interchanged between Henry VIII. and Francis, at the celebrated “Field of the Cloth of Gold.” In the centre of the dais there is a doorway leading to the withdrawal room. The beautiful gardens in front of the palace have been repeatedly the admiration of all visitors. They were laid out by William III., in the Dutch style, with canal and watercourses, and the compass and shears were industriously employed in making birds, beasts, and reptiles, out of yew, holly, and privet. The private gardens extend from the sides of the palace to the banks of the river, and contain, besides some remarkably fine orange trees, many of them in full bearing, a fine oak nearly forty feet in circumference, and an ancient elm called “King Charles’s swing.” The large space of ground on the opposite side of the palace is called “The Wilderness,” and was planted with shrubs by order of William and Mary. Most of the walks are completely overshadowed, and on a hot summer day a stroll through these umbrageous paths is exceedingly inviting. In this portion of the grounds is situated the Maze, so constructed that all the paths apparently leading to the centre turn off to a more distant part, and involve the inquisitive adventurer in constant perplexity. Though we are not quite sure that the revelation does not spoil the chief sport, the secret of success in threading this miniature labyrinth is, that after the first turning to the left the right hand should be kept towards the fence the whole of the remaining way. The greatest curiosity, however, is perhaps the famous Vine, which, sheltered and nurtured in a hot-house, is 110 feet long, and, at three feet from the root, is twenty-seven inches in circumference. It bears from two to three thousand bunches of the black Hamburg grape in the season. We may now mention the arrangements made for the reception of visitors.

The State Apartments, Public Gardens, and Picture Galleries are open daily (Friday excepted) throughout the year, from ten till dusk; and on Sundays after two, P.M. The Public Gardens have generally a military band in attendance, and a small fee is expected by the gardener for exhibiting the orangery and the vine.

The Chesnut Avenue of Bushey is world-famous. “Look across the road,” says a pleasant companion to the spot, “upon those dark masses of a single tree with thousauds of spiral flowers, each flower a study, powdering over the rich green, from the lowest branch to the topmost twig. Now you shall have a real reward for your three hours’ toil under a lustrous sun. Look up and down this wondrous avenue. It’s mile length seems a span; but from one gate to the other there is a double line of unbroken green with flowers rich as the richest of the tropics contending for the mastery of colour. Saw you ever such a gorgeous sight? Fashionable London even comes to see it; but in Whitsun week, and during the some twenty days of the glories of the chesnut, thousands come here to rejoice in the exceeding beauty of this marvel of nature, which the art of the Dutch gardeners, whom William of Nassau brought to teach us, have left as a proud relic of their taste.”

This is the nearest station for Esher and Claremont: the former, once a place of some importance, is now little better than an inconsiderable village. Esher Place is remarkable as having been the residence of Wolsey, when Bishop of Winchester; and a small castled turret, near the River Mole, is exhibited as the place of his temporary imprisonment.

Claremont, which is adjoining, has a melancholy interest, from the death of the lamented Princess Charlotte, which took place in 1817. The palace has since belonged to her husband, the King of the Belgians, who subsequently appropriated it to the use of the exiled Orleans family, when Louis Philippe left France in 1848, and who have resided in it since his death, in comparative seclusion.

The Walton station is a short distance from Hersham, one mile to the left, and the same distance from Walton to the right. In the old church of St. Mary’s, which may be seen rising amongst the trees, will be found various interesting monuments of considerable antiquity. A “scold bridle” is shown.

Apps Court, near Walton, was another of the many residences once belonging to Wolsey; and Ashley Park, the seat of the Fletcher family, is memorable for having been the temporary abode of Cromwell, prior to his assuming the Protectorate.

Emerging from the Walton cutting we gain a somewhat lofty embankment, affording some picturesque views, through which the translucent Wey meanders like a glistening thread.

Here is a commodious hotel adjoining the station, with some extensive grounds. The scenery in this neighbourhood is beautiful, and St. George’s Hill commands a delightful view of Windsor, Richmond, and Chertsey.

A little distance beyond Weybridge station a short line branches off to Addlestone and Chertsey.

CHERTSEY is as old as the days of the ancient Britons, and probably was one of their principal places. Soon after the conversion of the Saxons from Paganism, in 666, a Benedictine monastery was founded here by Frithwald, a petty prince of Surrey, and by him richly endowed. In the original charter it is written, “I beseech those whose names are annexed to subscribe themselves witnesses that I, Frithwald, who am the giver, together with the Abbot Erkenwald, on account of my ignorance of letters, have expressed with the sign of the Holy Cross.” It is from this pretty evident that princes in those days had somewhat of Jack Cade’s antipathy to those who could “read, write, and cast accompt,” and therefore they also “made their mark, like a simple, plain-dealing, honest man.” The Danes, who were the general “snappers-up of unconsidered trifles,” pillaged the abbey in 1009, killed the abbot and monks, and laid the whole building desolate; but being afterwards rebuilt by Egbert, King of Kent, it became more magnificently embellished than ever, and was one of the most important monasteries in the kingdom. Henry VI. was buried here, under a sumptuous mausoleum, but the body was exhumed in 1504, by Henry VII., and conveyed with great pomp, first to Windsor, and afterwards to Westminster Abbey. It is useless to look now for any vestige of its former grandeur; all that remains is a part of its wall, forming the boundary of an orchard, and part of an archway is still visible on the north side of the town. In the centre of the town is the church, rebuilt in 1808, but having a portion of the old chancel and tower remaining. Even so late as the year 1814, and occasionally since, the curfew has been tolled here, from Michaelmas to Lady-day, the day of the month being indicated during the time of ringing. A handsome stone bridge of seven arches was erected, in 1786, across the Thames, connecting the counties of Surrey and Middlesex. At a house in Guildford Street, formerly distinguished as the Porch House, lived Abraham Cowley, the poet, who has perpetuated, in prose and verse, his love for this seclusion in a hundred quaint prettinesses. Beneath the window of the room in which he died (July 28th, 1667) is a tablet thus appealing to the sympathies of the passers-by, “Here the last accents flowed from Cowley’s tongue.” A pretty summer house that he built, and a seat under a sycamore tree, both mentioned in his poems, were existing till the middle of the last century. After the excursionist has refreshed his physical energies at one of the many excellent inns that here abound, by all means let him ascend St. Anne’s Hill, about a mile out of the town, and he shall find himself, at the summit, elevated some 250 feet above the ocean level, with a glorious panorama round about him of the finest parts of the river between Richmond and Windsor. There is a spring at the top, that summer’s heat and winter’s cold alike prove unable to dry up or freeze. The mansion on the southern slope of the hill was once the residence of Charles James Fox, the statesman, to whom a cenotaph has been erected in the church.

From the hill before Weybridge to Woking, a distance of six miles, there is a gradual descent. After crossing the bridge which spans the Basingstoke Canal, here intersected by the canal from Guildford, and passing several villages, we pass over the Woking embankment, whence a succession of picturesque views will delight the traveller. Ottershaw Park affords a pleasing specimen of English forest scenery. The fine effect of these majestic trees, with nothing behind them but the sunny splendour of a summer morning, or the rich glow of an evening sky, realises all that Claude has embodied in his pictures.

On both sides of the line Woking Common is seen to extend for miles, only broken by the windings of the Basingstoke Canal, and terminated by a long range of woodland scenery, which stands out in picturesque relief against the horizon.

Three-quarters of a mile beyond Woking a line branches off to the left to Guildford and Godalming, direct to Portsmouth, from which another branch diverges at Guildford, and extends to Ash, Farnham, and Alton.

FARNHAM contains much to interest the tourist, Putting its celebrity for hops out of the question, there is the old castle, which has been the seat of the bishops of Winchester since the time of King Stephen, and the neighbourhood abounds with vestiges of former monastic splendour. The exquisitely beautiful ruins of Waverley Abbey, about a mile from the town, are alone are ward for any pilgrimage that may be made from the station. It has the earliest Cistercian foundation in England. Moore Park was the seat of Temple, whose heart was buried in a silver box under the sun-dial. Swift was his secretary at the time, and here wrote his correspondence with Stella.

MARKET DAY. —Saturday. FAIRS. —January 25th, June 22nd, Saturday in Easter Week, October 25th.

MARKET DAY. —Saturday. FAIRS. —Last Saturday in April, July 5th, and September 29th.

Returning to Guildford the line takes a southerly direction, and at the distance of 3¾ miles brings us to the important town of

This town is situated on the banks of the Wye, at a point where that river divides into several streams; it is a considerable trading and manufacturing town. The manufactures are stocking weaving of all kinds, fleecy hosiery, blankets, worsteds, cotton cloths, &c. It consists of a principal street, running east and west, and several smaller ones; the church is much admired, and has a handsome spire.

This route is a continuation of the line vía Guildford and Godalming to Portsmouth, bringing the latter place about 21 miles nearer London than by the old route, via Bishopstoke.—The stations are, MILFORD, WITLEY the station for Petworth, HASLEMERE, LIPHOOE, LISS.

PETERSFIELD, a neat little town of great antiquity. It has a population of 5,655, and returns one member to parliament. Near the chapel there is an equestrian statue of William III, built by the Joliffes of Merstham.

From Woking the line shortly crosses the road by a viaduct of one arch, and then enters the Gold-worthy Hill excavation, on emerging from which it proceeds over the Frimley embankment, about four miles in length, whence an almost unbounded view of the surrounding country bursts upon the sight. The eye ranges over one vast landscape of hills and valleys thickly wooded, and presenting a coup d’œil of surpassing beauty, above which may be seen the Surrey hills stretching away for miles, and bounding one of nature’s panoramas which defy description. Crossing a small streamlet, called Blackwater Brook, we leave the county of Surrey for Hampshire, and passing beneath a road, we reach FARNBOROUGH Station.

ONE of the southern counties of England, bounded on the east by Surrey and Sussex; on the south by the English Channel; and on the west by Wiltshire and Dorsetshire. It extends in length, from north to south, about fifty-five miles; in breadth, from east to west, about forty. The surface of Hampshire is beautifully varied with gently rising hills, fruitful valleys, and extensive woodlands. The chief part of the county is enclosed, though large tracts of open heath and uncultivated lands remain, especially in that part which borders Dorsetshire. The manufactures of Hampshire are not considerable; the principal are those of woollen goods. Great quantities of excellent malt are made at Andover; malt and leather at Basingstoke, also silk, straw hats, and paper; vast quantities of common salt, and of Epsom and Glauber salts, at Lymington; and in the neighbourhood of Redbridge there are valuable salt marshes. The minerals of Hampshire are scarcely deserving of notice, though the chalk strata and the rocks along the coast present very interesting objects to the geologist. Hampshire is much resorted to for the purpose of sea-bathing, and also as a fashionable summer residence, and bathing houses have, in consequence, been erected all along the coast. The scenery of the New Forest is particularly admired, and the whole county abounds with villas and country seats.

The railway communication of the county is supplied principally by the South Western Railway Company, from Farnborough Station to Winchester, Southampton, Portsmouth, Salisbury, &c., &c., and the Great Western have a branch line between Reading and Basingstoke.

At this station the Farnborough cutting ends, and we proceed along an embankmeut which again reveals some pleasing rural scenery, but the country between here and Winchfield does not demand any lengthened description. This is the nearest station for the Camp at Aldershott.

OMNIBUSES to Odiham, North Warnborough, Hartley, Hartley Row, Hartford Bridge, Whitney and Phoenix, five times daily, and to Bromhill, Hickfield, Strathfieldsaye, and Wokingham.

Leaving the station we enter a deep excavation, and soon after a short tunnel; a lofty embankment follows, which presents us with a series of delightful prospects, amongst which the Odiham hills and their singular clump of trees on the summit figure conspicuously on the left. Prior to entering on the Hook Common excavation we pass beneath Odiham bridge, which leads to the seat of the late and present Duke of Wellington, Strathfieldsaye, situated about six miles off to the right.

The Heriot hills, crested by lofty firs, soon burst into view, and not long after we pass the interesting ruins of Old Basing, which was, in the Saxon era, a place of considerable note, and the scene of contests during the civil wars. The viaduct the line now passes over affords a good view of the old town, and a short distance beyond we reach

FAIRS. —Easter Tuesday, Wednesday in Whitsun Week, September 23rd and October 10th.

BASINGSTOKE is a straggling, ill-built town, situated on the left in the valley. It is, nevertheless, a place of great antiquity, and appears in Domesday Book as a “market town.” It enjoyed the privilege of sending members to parliament, and exercised that right as early as the reigns of Edwards I. and II. Charles the First conferred upon it its first charter of incorporation, and it is still a municipal borough, possessing an annual revenue of nearly 2,000l. Formerly it carried on a rather considerable business in druggets, which has since fallen off, and the inhabitants now mainly depend on the corn and malt trades. It possesses several charities, one of which was established by a bequest from Sir J. Lancaster, the navigator, who was a native.

A beautiful rain, on the brow of the hill to the right, stands out in bold relief against the horizon, and cannot fail to attract notice. It is the dilapidated remains of the Holy Ghost Chapel, destroyed by the Puritans under Cromwell. A day passed at Basingstoke will be well bestowed in visiting the neighbourhood so rich in historical associations.

After leaving Basingstoke the line proceeds through a chalky range, from which various parks may be seen extending on every side—blended with scattered villages Passing the stations of OAKLEY, OVERTON, and WHITCHURCH, we arrive at the important station of

A bustling agricultural town and borough in West Hants, with a population of 5,430, represented by two members in the House of Commons. The Roman way from Winchester to Cirencester passed in this direction, and here the Romans fixed a station, which they called Andaseron; but when Ethelred the Saxon was present at the baptism of Olaus of Norway, it was called Andofera, whence we get the present name. One of the villages in the neighbourhood is yet named Winchester Street (stratum)—a proof of how little things have altered in the country parts of England for ages downwards.

The town stretches two-thirds of a mile along this highway, on the little river Anton. It has a modern town-hall on arches, a new church built in 1849, many malt-houses, and a factory for silk shag. The Old Church dates back to the conquest. There is a large trade in agricultural produce, especially about the time of Weyhill Fair. This takes place between the 10th and 15th of October, at Weyhill, 3 miles north-west of the town, when immense quantities of sheep, horses, hops, cheese, leather, &c., change hands. As many as 300,000 sheep are brought to market; and the country people take the opportunity of hiring themselves to new masters—their common practice being to change their situations annually.

This town obtained an unenviable notoriety some few years ago, in consequence of mal-practices alleged to exist in the Union, and which formed at the time the subject of official inquiry. The facts elicited during this inquiry created a deep sensation throughout the country, and produced a feeling both in and out of Parliament, the expression of which has drawn attention to the working of the poor-law system, which has resulted in an amelioration of the condition of those whom necessity has driven to take up their abode in our workhouses.

James II. slept here November 1688, where his son-in-law, Prince George of Denmark, deserted him to join the Prince of Orange, who was advancing from the West of England. “What!” said James,. “Est-il-possible — gone?” This was the prince’s nickname, from his constant habit of using that phrase.

Several Roman and Saxon camps may be found in this quarter by the persevering antiquary. Within a short distance are Amport House, seat of the Marquis of Winchester, and Hurstbourne Priors, which belongs to the Earl of Portsmouth (a lunatic). The old seat of the Winchester family, was that Basing House defended so gallantly for two years against the Puritan party, until Cromwell came in person and carried it by storm, when the plate, jewels, &c., were seized, and the noble pile burnt to the ground. Some few traces of it are yet visible at Old Basing near Basingstoke; a descendant of his was the Duke of Bolton, who married Polly Peachum.

GRATELEY AND PORTON stations are next passed, and in a very few minutes the train arrives at

DINTON. —Dinton House, seat of W. Wyndham, Esq., is on the river Nadder, and was the birth-place of the great Lord Clarendon, 1608. Wickhall Camp, an ancient encampment, is near.

The next stations in succession are TISBURY, SEMLEY, GILLINGHAM, TEMPLECOMBE Junction, and MILBOURNE PORT.

This town has a population of 5,523, and is prettily situated on the slope of a hill in the vale of Blackmore. It was once the seat of a bishopric, but was removed to Old Sarum in 1075. The abbey was a long time after in existence, but was burnt in the reign of Henry VI. The abbey church was afterwards made parochial, and is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the west of England. There are likewise some remains of a castle. Near it is the mansion of the Earl of Digby, which was partly built by Sir Walter Raleigh, surrounded by picturesque scenery and sheltering groves, one of which was planted by this unfortunate but great man.

SUTTON BINGHAM, CREWKERNE, and CHARD ROAD stations, at the last of which a branch of the railway diverges to the right, three miles long, to the town of

POPULATION , 2,896; situated on the river Axe. Some of the best and finest description of carpets are made here.

POPULATION , 3,301. Returns two members to parliament, and produces lace of a very costly description.

MICHELDEVER station. — The line now passes through a country bearing the true Hampshire characteristics of forest scenery, until we reach

This old capital of the British Belgœ, county town of Hampshire, a bishop’s see, and parliamentary borough (two members); stands among round chalk hills, sloping down to the Itchen, on the South Western Railway, 63½ miles from London, and 12¼ from Southampton. The ancient Britons styled it Gwent, a white; which the Romans, who made it one of their head quarters, altered to Venta Belgarium ; and the West Saxons, after them, to Wintancestre. Many of the later Saxon kings and their successors down to Henry VIII., occasionally made Winchester a place of residence. The Winchester bushel, the standard of dry-measure, and Henry I.’s standard yard, are to be seen at the Town Hall in High-street, a modern building. The County Hall is close to the gate of a castle built by William the Conqueror, and was itself once the castle chapel. The hall is 110 feet long, and contains a curious relic, called Arthur’s Round Table, 18 feet in diameter, on which are portraits of this king of romance and his peerless knights. King Arthur, if he ever existed, was a British, and not Saxon sovereign. At Caer Gwent, now Caerlea, in Monmouthshire, there is an amphitheatre called after him; but from the likeness of names, his memory has taken root here; so much so that Henry VII.’s eldest son received his name, Arthur, from Winchester being the place of his birth, 1486. The table just mentioned, though restored, is as ancient as the time of King Stephen. Egbert of Wessex was here crowned by the Wittenagemote, Bretwalda, or King of all Angle-land, or England, as it was thenceforth called. Canute made Winchester the capital of England. The body of Rufus was brought hither by a charcoal-burner, after his death from Tyrrel’s arrow in the New Forest. Richard I. was crowned here on his return from Austria. Even as late as the 17th century it was a favourite resort of Charles II., who began a palace of red brick, now used as a barracks, on the Castle Hill, near the County Hall.

Winchester is nearly square, like all Roman towns, and has a main street—High-street, intersected by several narrower streets. In the middle of High-street is the Butter Cress, a beautiful piece of open arches and pinnacled work, in three stories, 45 feet high, of the time of Henry VI. Great inconvenience having been experienced by the citizens in having to purchase their necessaries at different localities, a splendid new Market House, affording accommodation for the sale and purchase of all domestic essentials, was opened in October, 1857. The Corn Exchange was built in 1839, a plain substantial structure. A little way from this is the Cathedral. more remarkable for its antiquity and length (518 feet) than for its appearance. The west front, however, and the front view of the entrance are imposing. The old parts (except the Saxon crypt), are Bishop Walkelin’s Norman transepts and tower—a low, solid pile 140 feet in height. Domesday Book was kept in the north aisle till a place was found for it at Westminster. In the Lady Chapel, at the east end, Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. The Gothic nave was built by Bishop Edindon and the famous William of Wykeham, whose statue is placed over the great window. Edindon refused the see of Canterbury, saying, “that though Canterbury was the higher rack, Winchester was the better manger.’ It is still the richest benefice, after London, being worth £10,500. The beautiful screen carved roof, and the choir, is the work of Bishop Fox, the founder of the Corpus Christi College, Oxford. The bones of a dozen Saxon kings were collected by him and placed in this part of the church; but, in the troubles of the civil war, they were dispersed, though several boxes were labelled with their names. There are some monumental chapels and effigies—such as William of Wykeham, Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop Fox, William Rufus, Bishop Hoadley, Izaak Walton, James Wharton, the poet, &c. One of the first organs made in England was placed here by Bishop Elfey, in the year 951; it was a ponderous thing containing 400 pipes, blown by 24 pair of bellows. In the close are remains of the cloisters of St. Swithin’s priory, and of Wolvesley Castle, which was a seat of the bishops, built by King Stephen’s brother, de Blois. The palace was built by Wren.

William of Wykeham’s College, was founded in 1339, and is an ancient Gothic pile, with additions made in the last century. The chapel, hall, and cloisters are beautiful. The scholars here are regularly transferred to New College, Oxford, which was also founded by this munificent prelate. More than forty bishops have been educated here.

There is a model prison near the Cemetery. St. John the Baptist’s Hospital is a very ancient foundation, a part of which is now used as an assembly room. The church of St. John is very old. St. Swithin’s is over King’s Gate postern. There are eleven altogether, formerly they were ninety, of which, twenty were burnt in the war of succession between King Stephen and the Empress Maud. and more were destroyed when Cromwell took the city in 1645. West Gate is the only gate remaining in the old walls. The late Dr. Lingard, the Roman Catholic historian, was born here, 1769. Hong Kong was the Chinese seat of the late Mr. Andrews, the great carriage builder at Southampton, and here Kossuth the Hungarian leader was feted in 1851.

On the road to this town, about three quarters of a mile from Winchester, is the ancient church of St. Cross, begun by Bishop Blois in the Norman style, and finished by Wykeham and Cardinal Beaufort, the latter especially, who rebuilt most part of the hospital which is attached. The mastership held by Lord North has gradually dropped into a lucrative sinecure, to the injury of the foundation, but this abuse is now under inquiry. A piece of dry bread and a (dirty) cup of (thin) beer are still given to any wayfarer who asks for refreshments in terms of the founder’s desire. It is a striking instance of the tenacity with which the form of old customs is kept up in England, though the spirit of simple hospitality which the founder inculcated has entirely disappeared.

On St. Catherine’s Hill are traces of a camp; most of the highways from the city are in the direction of the old Roman roads. Among the seats around are the following: — Twyford, down the Itchen, belongs to J. Dampier, Esq. Here was a Roman Catholic School, in which Pope was educated. At Compton is an old church. Hursley, the seat of Sir W. Heathcote, Bart., belonged to Richard Cromwell, who succeeded his father as Protector. When the old house was pulled down in 1746, the great seal of the Commonwealth was found. Worthy Park, up the Itchen, the seat of Mr. Turner, near Headbourne Worthy. The learned Bingham was rector here. Avington was a seat of the Duke of Buckingham. Old Alresford House, Lord Rodney. The late primate Howley was born at Alresford. Swarraton Grange, Lord Ashburton. Tichbourne, Sir E. Doughty, Bart., descended from the Titchbournes who were seated here from the time of Henry II.

After leaving the station at Winchester the line proceeds through the Barracks Hill excavation, above which are the Barracks, erected on the site of an old palace, where Henry III was born.

The village of Twyford, where Pope was educated at the school of the Rev. Mr. Wyeham, is in the vieinity; thence passing Otterbourne, another straggling village to the right, we reach the station of

The little village that gives name to the station is most pleasantly situated, but contains no object worthy of remark. This station is the junction point with the branch line to Salisbury, and also the point of union between the Gosport and Southampton trains, the line to the former diverging slightly to the left.

MARKET DAY —Thursday. FAIRS —Easter Monday, August 16th, Nov. 18th, and every Tuesday fortnight, from July 31st to Dec. 25th.

Like many other places of great antiquity. Romsey owes its foundation to a monastic establishment. Edward here founded a Benedictine abbey on a very extensive scale, and appointed his daughter abbess. It was enlarged by Edgar, whose son’s remains were interred in its church. Romsey suffered considerably during the incursions of the Danes, who sacked the town and plundered the abbey in the 10th century. Although mentioned in Domesday Book, its first charter of incorporation only dates as far back as the reign of James I. It possesses a very ancient-looking church which belonged to the abbey, cruciform in shape, with a low tower. This church has been frequently altered and rebuilt. The Archæological Society has lately restored this interesting edifice, which, although mostly in the early English, yet retains traces of the Norman style. For nearly two hundred years an apple tree grew on the roof of this ancient structure, but it has recently been removed for fear of its injuring the building. The church contains a screen, several old frescoes, sculptures, tombs, &c. Remains of the abbey are still to be seen, and Roman coins, &c., have been found in the neighbourhood. The town has a population of 2,116, employed in general agricultural trade, paper mills, and sacking making.

OMNIBUSES AND COACHES to Stapleford, Deptford, Craford, Heytesbury, Boreham, Shaftesbury, Wilton, Barford, Fovant, Donhead, Ludwell, Gillingham, Milborne Port, Sherborne, Wincanton, Mere, Hindon, Knoyle, Bodenham, Charlton, Downton, Breamore, Fordingbridge, Devizes, Boscomb, Park House, Tidworth, Woodyates, Thickthorn, Blandford, Weymouth, Shrewton, Lavington, Wardour, and Bournemouth.

FAIRS. —Tuesdays after January 6th, and 25th March, second Tuesday in September, second Tuesday after October 10th; for sheep, July 15th and October 30th.

Salisbury is a parliamentary borough (two members) and a bishop’s see, in Wiltshire, at the terminus of a branch of the South Western line, 96 miles from London, on the rich green pastures of the Avon. Population 12,278. It is not an old town, compared with other sees, the real original Old Sarum being on the hill to the north of Salisbury, where the walls and ditches of the Roman Sorbiodunum out of which it sprung, are easily traced, as well as roads branching from it. Here a Cathedral was planted after the Conquest (for which that of Sherborne was deserted), but in 1220 another migration took place, and the present magnificent edifice was beguu by Bishop Poore. It was for the most part finished in the course of 32 years, so that it has the great advantage of being not only uniform in design but offers a complete specimen of the style of that age, namely, early English. The shape is a double cross, from end to end 442 feet long; through the greater transept the width is 203 feet, and 147 through the less. The west front (which with the spire is of later date than the body) is 130 feet wide and 200 high, and ornamented with niches, turrets, tracery, &c., and a large painted window; the lower eastern window is a very handsome new one, placed as a memorial to the late dean; the upper eastern window is a very splendid one—subject, the “Brazen Serpent,” by Mortimer—the gift of a former Earl of Radnor. Above all rises a most beautiful steeple, consisting of a slender crocketted spire, 190 feet long, resting on a tower, which makes its total height from the ground above 400 feet. It is reported to be 22 inches out of the perpendicular; but whether or not it is a most imposing object from all points. There are said to be as many windows in the cathedral as days in the year. Several effigies and monuments are here—some as far back as the 11th century, transferred of course from the old cathedral. Among them are a boy bishop, and William de Long êpée (or Long-sword) son of Richard I., also Bishop Jewell, author of the Apology for the English church, and Harris, the author of Hermes, and ancestor of the Malmesbury family. The last is a work of Bacon’s; there are two by Flaxman. The cloisters are 190 feet square; they were restored by the late Bishop Denison. In the octagonal chapter house, besides the stained windows and carvings, there is a good library, the Salisbury Missal or Roman form of prayer, which was the model for all the rest, a carved table, &c., and an original copy of Magna Charta. At the large old palace is a series of portraits, beginning with Bishop Duppa of Charles I.’s time. Both the cathedral and city were fully examined by the members of the archæological visit in 1844. Most of the streets, except the main one from Fisherton Street to Milford Hill, are laid out straight and regular, with rills 4 to 5 feet broad running through them from the Avon, Nadder, and Wiley; but unfortunately the city lies low, and, though its water meadows are pleasant to look at, the courts in which the poor live are in a filthy state. The Council Chamber was built 1795 by Sir R. Taylor; portraits of James I., Queen Anne, &c. St. Thomas’s church is Gothic; it contaius a carved monument of wood. Large county gaol at Fisherton, built 1822 St. Edmund’s Church, at the north-east corner of the city, was once collegiate. South of Milford Hill is St. Martin’s, and in the centre of the city stands St. Thomas’s. The churches are all about the same age. From the close behind the palace, an ancient bridge of the 13th century crosses the Avon to Harnham. There are two grammar schools; in that belonging to the city Addison was educated, at the Cathedral Grammar School in the close. He was born at Millston, higher up the river. There are also several hospitals and charities; one being a college for the widows of clergymen, founded by Bishop Seth Ward,—another, a set of alms-house by Bishop Poore,—and a third, a hospital by Longsword’s wife, Ella.

Two or three ancient wooden houses remain, which are curious specimens of ancient domestic architecture. In the Market Place, which was the scene of the execution of Buckingham, by order of Richard III., in 1483, is an ancient hexagonal Cross on pillars, called the Poultry Cross, built in Richard II.’s reign. Chubb, the deistical writer, was a tallow chandler here. Shoes and excellent cutlery figure among the manufactures. There are many objects of interest in the neighbourhood. At Stratford, near the ancient city, the Pitts had a seat; and in this way Old Sarum had the honour to be represented by the great Earl of Chatham.

Trafalgar (4 miles), on the Avon, is the seat of Earl Nelson, bought for the family by Parliament, on the death of Nelson in 1805. At Clarendon (3 miles), once a royal forest, the “Constitutions of Clarendon” subjecting the clergy to the civil power, were enacted 1163; this led to Becket’s rebellion. Clarendon Park, Sir F. Bathurst, Bart. Near this, an ancient boundary called Grime’s Ditch, may be traced along the hills into Dorset and Hants. Cranborne Chase, now enclosed, was to the south of it. There is an old church in the town; and at Tollard Royal is King John’s hunting seat. Longford Castle, the seat of the Earl of Radnor, was at first built (1591) in the shape of a triangle, in honour of the Trinity. Besides many interesting portraits, it contains a curious steel chair, covered with bas reliefs, illustrative of Roman history. Wardour Castle is Lord Arundel of Wardour’s seat,—a modern Grecian house in a large park, which contains the remains of a castle, famous in the civil war for the defence made in it by Lady Blanche and a few men against the forces of Hungerford. There are several religious pieces and relics (the family being Roman Catholic), portraits, &c, and a handsome chapel. Fonthill Abbey, the largest park in the county, belongs to Alfred Morrison, Esq., but formerly the seat of Beckford, the author of that most original eastern story, “Caliph Vathek,” who here lived in the most selfish retirement, not seeing or being noticed by any one. Heytesbury (16 miles) on the Wiley, the seat of Lord Heytesbury, is a little decayed borough, with a collegiate church, and many barrows, &c. in the neighbourhood. Here these remains of antiquity begin to multiply, especially on Salisbury plain. Many were investigated by Mr. Cunningham, a draper, of Heytesbury, to whom Sir R. C. Hoare dedicated his “Ancient Wiltshire,” in which will be found the fullest account of these memorials. They are of various kinds and shapes,—round, oval, square, &c. For warfare or burial (the barrows are usually graves), and have evidently been occupied by Britons, Romans, Saxons, &c., in succession, who attended them to suit their convenience. About 70 principal camps and stations may be counted, many of them ending in bury, Salisbury Plain is a turfy naked tract, 20 miles long east and west, almost as level as the sea, covered with sheep tracks, among which it is easy to lose oneself. The old coach road to the west of England crosses it; and the mail has been more than once dug out of the drift snow. In the winter of January 1854, a miller’s wagon was thus overwhelmed; the poor driver got out to look for the road and perished; had he been content to stay where he was, he would have been saved by next morning. It is 500 or 600 feet above the sea. In the flattest and most solitary part are the celebrated Druid circles of Stonehenge ; two ovals inside two circles, can be pretty well traced, with the avenues leading to them. There are, or were, about 140 stones. The people say that it is impossible to count the same number twice over, and that it would be unlucky to count them right—which must be a little discouraging to the schoolmaster. It has ever been considered the greatest wonder in the west of England, and many hundreds of strangers visit it annually. They are of a similar kind to those found on the Downs, where they lie about like sheep under the name of Grey Wethers. Stonehenge is apt to disappoint the stranger at the first sight; and to some it is a trifle indeed. An American was once brought here by his friends, and made to shut his eyes as he drew near. Being placed under one of the Trilithons (one stone across the top of two others), he was told to look up, but instead of expressing astonishment, he wondered that they should think anything of it. To him who had gone in large ships in full sail under a vast natural archway of rock, it was nothing; but a little while after, the sight of Salisbury Cathedral, that glorious triumph of man’s skill, sent him into raptures. Vespasian’s camp and the circus (a round camp) are close to Amesbury, where there is an old church, and the seat of Sir E. Antrobus Bart. Avon hamlet lies two miles north-west of Salisbury. Wilbury Park, formerly Sir W. Cubitt’s seat, now Sir A. Malet’s, Bart. Millston was the birth-place of Addison, born in 1672; his father being the rector.

By Botley and Fareham to Gosport, and Fareham and Cosham to Portsmouth, or from Gosport by ferry across to Fortsmouth, or vice versa.

From Bishopstoke the line diverges to the south-east, in order to preserve a connecting link between two towns which must ever be the focus of our military and maritime interest.

BOTLEY. —For those who are disposed to avail themselves of it, railway accommodation is here afforded to the town of

This town, situated in Waltham Chase, was an ancient seat of the Winchester prelates, and there are traces left of their palace, in which William of Wykeham died. He was born (1324) at Wyckeham or Wickham a few miles south. The Chase is now reclaimed or enclosed. In the last century it was overrun by a gang of poachers, or Waltham Blacks.

The trade of this place consists of coal, corn, canvas, and ropes. Much resorted to in the sea-bathing season.

GOSPORT, in the reign of Henry VIII., was merely a miserable village, inhabited by poor fishermen, and its present importance may justly be ascribed to its convenient situation on the western side of Portsmouth harbour, and its contiguity to the Royal Naval Arsenal. The stores, fortifications, and long range of forts, all formed about the commencement of the present century, give a very forcible idea of the value attached to its commanding position; but the streets, narrow and dirty, have anything but a prepossessing appearance to a stranger. The ferry across the harbour, which is here nearly a mile broad, is contrived by means of the steam floating bridge, sufficiently capacious to convey vehicles as well as foot passengers across to Portsmouth, in a journey that rarely occupies more than eight minutes. The toll is one penny for each time of passing. About one mile north of Gosport, near Forton Lake, is the new Military Hospital, and at the extremity of that point of land which forms the western extremity of Portsmouth Harbour is Haslar Hospital, founded at the suggestion of Earl Sandwich, and completed in 1762. It is capable of affording accommodation to about 2,000 invalids. The average expenses of this establishment, intended exclusively for the reception of sick and wounded seamen, is about £5,000 per annum. The portico of the centre part of the building is surmounted by the royal arms, flanked by two figures personifying Commerce and Navigation. A new suburb, called Bingham Town, contains some genteel modern residences. The railway extends 1½ mile further to

At which point there is a floating bridge which conveys passengers from the railway across the Solent, to the Isle of Wight.

The little village of Anglesea, close at hand, affords a miniature watering place for those among the residents who are not disposed to go further from home.

This place has an ancient castle, which serves for prisoners of war and ordnance stores.

The line traverses a country skirted in each direction by thick woody undulations. On approaching the town, however, the scenery becomes somewhat less interesting.

BANKERS. —National Provincial Bank of England. Atherley and Fall; Hampshire Banking Co.; Maddison and Pearce.

The station, which is close to the quay, and has a commanding position on the banks of the Southampton Water, is admirably adapted for the convenience of passengers. On his way to the High-street, the traveller will obtain a favourable view of the picturesque bay. Bounded on one side by the sheltering glades of The New Forest, and opening on the other to the Channel and the Isle of Wight, a series of beautiful views meet the eye, which cannot fail to charm by their exquisite contrast and variety. On leaving the terminus by the down line gate, we pass the platform, the old castle, lately the goal, and a little further is the new Corn Market, on the site of the old Custom House, and turning to the right we enter one of the finest streets that ever ornamented a provincial town—this being High-street—a prominent object in which is the Old Bar Gate, which formed the principal entrance into the town.

Southampton is the chief mail-packet station in the kingdom, and a parliamentary borough in Hampshire (two members), seventy-nine miles from London by the South Western Railway, on a point at the head of a fine inlet called Southampton Water, into which the Test and Itchen run.

Southampton was the scene of Canute’s reproof of his flatterers, when he bid them place his chair on the edge of the water and commanded the waves to retire—a scene often described by the historian and painter. Another hero of romance was Sir Bevis of Hamptune (as the town was formerly called—and the county Hamptune-shire), who figures in company with the Giant Ascupart, it is said, on the ancient Bar Gate, between two towers, stretching across High-street, and supporting the Town Hall, fifty-two feet long. In the suburbs is an earthwork called Bevis Mount. There are also, near the sea, remains of part of the town walls, with two gates and two or three towers, one of which was a debtors’ prison. Domus Dei Hospital was founded in the reign of Henry III., but has been modernized. A chapel occupies the site of the old castle.

St. Michael’s Church, marked by a lofty spire, is the oldest in Southampton. That of Holyrood is also ancient; within is a half-pious half-poetical epitaph, by Thomson, on Miss Stanley, usually given in his works. All Saints is a careful Grecian building, by Revely the architect; its roof is admired. At the Grammar School, the excellent Dr. Watts, a native of this town (born 1674), was educated. His father kept a boarding-school here. Pococke, the eastern traveller, and C. Dibdin, the song-writer, were born here. The Baths are three quarters of a mile from the platform, on the other side of the town, where they show a gun named after Henry VIII. Andrews’ Coach Factory, in the High-street, has a large and important business. Mr. Andrews, five times mayor of Southampton, received Kossuth on his landing here in 1851.

Among the other public buildings and institutions of Southampton we may mention the Custom House, a plain neat building, situate on the Quay, near the Royal Pier; the Free Grammar School, in Bugle Street, founded by Edward VI.; a commodious Literary and Scientific Institution, and numerous charitable foundations, all admirably conducted. Concerts and Balls are held in the Royal Victoria Assembly Rooms, situated in Portland Terrace, close to the High Street, and the Long Rooms, built in 1761, by the baths. The Theatre, a very neat and commodious structure, is in French Street, and stands upon the site of the ancient Hospital of St. John.

Southampton has a considerable foreign and coasting trade in wine, fruit, timber, &c. When the mud banks are covered at high tide, its inlet is a fine sheet of water seven miles long, and one to two broad, and exactly the spot for a sail, with groves along the shores, especially the west, in which the nightingales are heard all night long. It is eleven or twelve miles to Cowes, opposite which is Osborne House, the seat of Queen Victoria.

A pleasant promenade is the Royal Victoria Pier, built in 1832. It is an elegant wooden structure, extending 246 feet into the water, having a carriage way in the centre twenty feet wide, and a footway, on each side of eight feet. A toll of twopence is required from each passenger, and the bustle that prevails on the arrival and departure of steamers causes the scene to become one of very lively interest. The Southampton Water is here three miles wide, and in the centre about forty feet in depth, so as to admit ships of any burthen. Sheltered by lofty woods, and free from all rocky obstructions, this beautiful bay presents a very convenient harbour. Bathing machines, swimming baths, and other means of salutary ablution, adapted both to the invalid and the robust, are provided for those who choose to avail themselves of the accommodation afforded. There is a regatta in July, and some well regulated races, which take place on a beautiful spot of ground on Southampton Common.

Since Southampton, owing to the advantageous effects of the railway, has become one of our leading commercial ports, some new docks have been formed, on a scale of great magnitude, and ample accommodation afforded for housing and bonding goods, as well as for the reception of shipping and the convenience of passengers passing in and out of the port. Situated at the confluence of the river Itchen with the Southampton Water, the dock basin presents a surface of sixteen acres of water, eighteen feet deep from low water mark, enclosed by massive walls of masonry, and with a noble entrance 150 feet between the pier heads, without lock or gate. The Post Office is in Hanover Buildings. Letters are delivered three times daily; at 7 a. m., 3 p. m., and 6 30 p. m. There is thus constant epistolary communication.

The direct road to Portsmouth leads across the river Itchen, where a floating bridge conveys the passenger over to the opposite shore for a toll of one penny, and in a passage occupying about four minutes in duration. It is a large flat-bottomed vessel, plied by steam, between two vast chains stretched parallel from one bank to the other. Near the ferry is the Cross House, a building traditionally said to be about three centuries old, and to have been erected at the expense of a lady who, waiting shelterless for a boat to take her across the ferry, caught a fatal cold, which led to her bequeathing a sum of money for the erection, and a legacy for keeping it in repair. On the right hand of the road is a finger-post to Netley Abbey, of which place, as one of the great attractions to Southampton visitors, we now propose giving a few details.

Netley Abbey lies three miles along the eastern shore, over the floating-bridge at Itchen Ferry; near to it a noble military college has recently been erected. It was founded 1240, by Roger de Clare. Remains of the church, chapter-house, refectory, &c., exist, all picturesquely wound with ivy or overshadowed with ash and other trees. Sir Horace Walpole gives the following graphic description:—”The ruins are vast, and contain fragments of beautiful fretted roofs, pendant in the air, with all variety of Gothic patterns of windows, topped round and round with ivy. Many trees have sprouted up among the walls, and only want to be increased by cypresses. A hill rises above the abbey, enriched with wood. The fort, in which we would build a tower for habitation, remains, with two small platforms. This little castle is buried from the abbey in wood, in the very centre, on the edge of a hill. On each side breaks in a view of the Southampton sea, deep blue, glistening with silver and vessels; on one side terminated by Southampton, on the other by Calshol Castle; and the Isle of Wight rises above the opposite hills. In short, they are not the ruins of Netley, but of Paradise. Oh, the purpled abbots! What a spot they had chosen to slumber in ! The scene is so beautifully tranquil, yet so lively, that they seem only to have retired into the world.”

Those disposed to enjoy a more extensive pedestrian excursion may, after leaving the Abbey, return to Southampton by a circuit through the country, by Hound and Hamble, which will reveal for them some very pretty features of pure pastoral scenery.

There are other seats and pretty spots in the neighbourhood, such as Bittern Grove, the site of Clausentum, a Roman station, and belonging to D. Urquhart, Esq., the political writer; Bannister Grove, Postswood (near the remains of St. Dennis s Priory ), Townhill Park, &c,; and Stoneham Park, J. Fleming, Esq., near the church in which Lord Hawke is buried. Across the Hamble’s mouth is Hook, a pretty place near some low cliffs. Up the Test, which is lined with water meadows, are Upton, Broadlands, the seat of Viscount Palmerston, and Romsey, with its old abbey church, lately restored. On or near the western side of Southampton Water, are Marchwood, Cadlands, Lady M. Drummond; Eaglehurst, near Calshot Castle, which stands on a long bank of pebbles, and was built by Henry VIII. Lyndhurst, in the heart of the New Forest, the best trip of all. The scenery here is as richly woodland and as secluded as the most solitary could desire. Fonleage, Bolderwood, and other seats are at hand. At Stony Cross stood the Canterton Oak (till 1745), from which Tyrrel’s arrow glanced and killed Willaim Rufus, 2nd August, 1100. He was carried home by a charcoal-burner, Purkis, whose direct descendants, all charcoal-burners, are still, or were lately, alive. The spot is marked by an inscription. Hampshire bacon is perfection here—reared on acorns.

A distance of 104 miles; and, as the communication is frequent, and the passage to Guernsey averages about eight hours only, we would here introduce a brief sketch of the leading features of these islands, before proceeding to the Isle of Wight. The fares run about 18s. and 12s.

Lies thirteen miles west of Jersey, seven west of Sark, and fifteen south-west of Alderney. The chains of rocks lying east and west between these islands and the coast of Normandy appear to be the remnants of an ancient connection with the mainland. It is of a triangular form, about nine miles long and six in its greatest breadth, its circumference, following the sinuosities of the coast, being about thirty-nine English miles. The southern shore of the island, and a small part of the eastern, is a bold and continuous cliff, rising from the sea perpendicularly to the height of 270 feet. The land slopes gradually to the north, till it subsides in a low flat, not much above the level of the sea; this is the most fertile part of the island. Half a dozen brooks, the greatest of which has not a course of more than three miles, descend into the bays. The island is wholly of granite formation, and the soil which lies between its clustered rocks is an accumulation of decomposed syenite.

Nearly in the centre of the east side of the island is a long curve or irregular bay, in which lies the town of St. Peter’s Port. As St. Helier’s, in Jersey, has its rock in the harbour with Elizabeth Castle, so St. Peter’s Port has its rock with Castle Cornet. Both formerly were the residences of the respective governors of the islands. Like Mont Orgueil, Castle Cornet is a very ancient fortification, and many are the stories of its memorable sieges recounted in the local histories. The castle is at present in a tolerable state of repair, mounts some cannon, and is garrisoned by a regiment of soldiers; but though there are some good houses and strong works within, it is not, in the modern acceptation of the word, a formidable fortification. Nothing can be more charmingly picturesque than the town of St. Peter’s, seen from the water. It is built on the slope of an eminence, with the houses overtopping each other; and on approaching after sunset, the various lights from the windows give it a brilliant appearance of illumination. Of late years the town has been considerably extended, and now may be said to include a circumference of about three miles. In the older part the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked, flanked by substantial but antiquated dusky mansions, but the environs abound in pretty villas, and as far transcend the expectation of the tourist as the town may seem to fall below it. The new town occupies such an elevated position that from the level of the market-place the side of the ravine is ascended by a flight of 145 steps, to the top of what is called Mount Gibel. About a quarter of a mile from this spot are the public walks, or “new ground.” This plot of land, comprising about eight English acres, was purchased by the parish about 70 years ago, and is laid out partly in groves and partly as a grand military parade. One of the principal “lions” of the town is its Fish Market, one of the most striking edifices of the kind ever erected. It is 198 feet in length, 22 feet wide, and 28 feet high, the whole being entirely covered over and well lighted by seven octagonal sky-lights, beneath which there are Venetian blinds for the purposes of ventilation. The double row of slabs, that extend the whole length of the building, are chiefly of variegated marble, and are supplied with abundance of fresh water. The total cost of Fountain-street and the Fish Market amounted to nearly £58,000. Turbot, cod, and mullet are in abundance, and of excellent quality, as well as amazing cheapness. The Butchers’ Marketplace, adjoining, was erected in 1822, and under the Assembly Rooms is the Vegetable Market, both commodious and suitable to the purpose. The prices are slightly lower than in London. The poultry consumed in Guernsey is chiefly French, very little country produce being brought to market. A glance at the average prices will not be uninteresting:—Turkeys sell at from 3s. to 4s.; fowls, 2s. 6d. per couple; geese, 2s. 6d. each; Guernsey eggs, 8d. to 1s. per dozen, and French eggs, from 5d. to 6d. There is a neat theatre in New-street, and some assembly rooms, built by subscription, in the spacious ball-room of which the public meetings are generally held. At the top of Smith-street stands Government House, a neat building, the residence of the Lieutenant Governor. From the roads and harbour, the church of St. James, the new college, and Castle Cary, which stand in the highest part of the town, form very striking and commanding objects. Castle Cary was erected in 1829, at a cost of £4,000, and is two stories in height, exclusive of the basement and centre tower or turret, but from the little ground attached to it the whimsical appellation of Castle Lackland has been appropriately bestowed.

Doyle’s Column, erected in honour of Sir John Doyle, stands on the heights between the bays of Fermain and Moulin-street. It is about 150 feet high from the base to the top, and 250 feet above the level of the sea. A winding staircase inside affords access to the gallery, which is surrounded by an iron balustrade, and commands a varied and extensive view.

St. Peter’s church is of a more elaborate architecture than any in the island; it consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, with a tower in the centre, surmounted by a low spire. The porch on the northern side is very handsome; granite pillars support the arched roof, and on the walls are some exquisitely beautiful marble monuments. The garrison service and the evening service are performed in the English language. There are also numerous other places of religious worship, appropriate to the tenets of every other denomination. Elizabeth College—a fine building, standing on an elevation behind the town, with a spacious area around it beautifully laid out—was founded and endowed by Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1563, who assigned eighty quarters of wheat rent for its support. For nearly three centuries this institution existed in little more than its name, but means were successfully adopted, in 1824, to place this admirable institution on the footing of a college. The course includes Hebrew, Greek, Latin, divinity, geography, history, mathematics, arithmethic, and French and English literature, for £12 per annum, to which, for a small additional sum, may be added the Spanish, Italian, and German languages, music, drawing, fencing, and drilling. Another excellent institution in the town is the hospital or workhouse, which is admirably managed, and has been, since its erection in 1743, for the destitute a refuge, and for the young a seminary for instruction.

The harbour is formed artificially by a long pier, and there is a good roadstead near the village of St. Martin, where a great number of vessels take shelter during gales. In his excursions through the environs, the visitor will be struck with the superior neatness of the cottages of Guernsey, as compared with Jersey, and remark with interest the universal passion that prevails for flowers. On the front of most of the cottages may be seen, trailed up, splendid geraniums, and amongst the other flowers cultivated, we must not forget the far-famed Guernsey lily, the pride of the island, and the favourite of every gardener and cottager who has a bit of garden ground. The Guernsey lily is a native of Japan, and was said to have been originally introduced into the island by accident. A vessel having some roots on board was wrecked off the coast here, and these being washed on shore, germinated, grew upon the beach, and were soon after universally cultivated and admired.

Of the salubrity of the Guernsey climate there can be no doubt, as well from the restorative effect produced upon invalid visitors as from the general health and longevity enjoyed by its inhabitants. It is considerably warmer than the southern coast of Devonshire in all seasons, without, however, being more humid, a character which it has rather undeservedly acquired. The heat of summer is tempered by a gentle sea-breeze, and, like all other maritime situations, the cold of winter is mitigated by the caloric imparted to the atmosphere from the surrounding ocean. Frosts are neither severe nor durable; indeed, whole winters often pass away without a single fall of snow. The luxuriance of the various exotics, which flourish at this season unguarded, afford unequivocal evidence of the mildness of the climate. The white double rose camelia blooms abundantly in the month of November, and orange-trees endure the winter with only a slight covering of matting occasionally thrown around them.

The island is easily examined. The northern extremity is narrow, bare, and ugly, a large portion of it having only been reclaimed from the sea a few years ago. The most attractive natural scenery is to be found on the southern and south-western sides; and though it is neither so productive nor so-luxuriantly wooded as Jersey, the island is far from being destitute of beautiful localities. Fermain Bay, Petit Bo, and Moulin-Huet, are all three worth a visit, but will certainly not compare with the bays in Jersey. Some interesting Druidical monuments were discovered in the year 1812, having been till that time covered by heaps of sand. Some antique vessels and remains of human bones were found within, and there is also an obelisk of Celtic origin, but without inscription. The best way to see the island to advantage is to make a pedestrian journey round it, doubling the headlands, and skirting the cliffs in every direction.

The bulk of the people of Guernsey may be divided into two classes—the middle and the labouring, or rather the tradespeople in the town, and the country people, who are very hard-working and abstemious. The jury is unknown in Guernsey: all judicial power is veste d in the bailiffs and the jurats, but there is a right of appeal from the Royal Court to the Privy Council. The rate of living is very reasonable, and the hotels are, with the boarding-houses—which are generally preferred by visitors who stop more than a few days—exceedingly liberal in their entertainment and reasonable in their charges.

Not one of the least advantages of the Channel Islands, and of Guernsey in particular, as a place of residence, is the prevailing custom, which exempts from local taxation strangers not possessed of real property in the island, and not carrying on any trade or profession. With the exception of a small duty on spirits, there is an utter absence of all imposts on imported goods, and the visitor is neither plagued with passports nor delayed by the annoyances of a Custom-house scrutiny. The population of the island is about 30,000, and the annual mortality, as appears from the latest registration in 1847, was only one in about eighty-five. In 1846, the effective strength of the militia was estimated to be about 2,600 men, from sixteen to forty-five years of age, and these are divided into four regiments and an artillery battalion.

Which many prefer to the island already described, is in form an irregular parallelogram, about ten miles long, and five broad. Its greatest length from south-east to north-west is about twelve miles, whilst it embraces a circumference, inclusive of its many curves and winding sinuosities, of about fifty miles, and a superficies of some 50,000 acres. Sloping from north to south, in contradistinction to Guernsey, the whole of the northern coast, with the eastern and western projections, will be found composed of rugged and precipitous rocks, while the southern shore, though fringed with crags and undulating cliffs, lies low, and has a considerable portion of that fine sandy beach so inviting to those who come chiefly to bathe and promenade by the sea shore. The town of St. Helier’s, where the steam-boat passengers from Southampton disembark, lies on the eastern side of the beautiful bay of St. Aubin’s; and if the visitor be fortunate enough to arrive at high water, the first appearance of the island, with its noble bay, sloping shores, and thickly wooded heights, profusely studded with villas and cottages, will be found happily to unite the attributes of the beautiful and the picturesque. The town itself is very Swiss-like in its aspect, and backed by its lofty stronghold, Fort Regent, which is seen over-topping the houses in all directions, it at once impresses the visitor with a conviction that the elements of novelty are everywhere around him. Though little more than what a thriving, bustling sea-port town may be expected to be, with its boarding-houses and hotels, a court-house and a market, an old parish church and a modern district one—built in what is called the Gothic style—two or three dissenting chapels, a theatre, and shops of quiet respectability—the hand of improvement has been lately much more manifest, and it has now assumed all the elegance and attractiveness of a fashionable watering-place. The extensive fortification, Fort Regent, which is generally the first object that strikes the eye of the traveller, was begun in 1806, and before its completion cost no less than £800,000. The magazines and barracks are in the bastions and under the ramparts, and are bomb-proof. The powder magazine is capable of containing 5,000 barrels, and the whole fortress, which has certainly been constructed on the best principles of defence, is abundantly supplied with excellent water from a well 234 feet deep, and 10 feet in diameter, bored through the solid rock. This has completely thrown into the shade the more ancient and picturesque fort called Elizabeth Castle, built on a huge sea-girt rock, passed in approaching the town from England; but an excursion to it—which can only be made on foot, by a pebble causeway, at low water—should be certainly undertaken, for the sake of the charming views it affords. Having inspected the town and its environs, paid a visit to Elizabeth Castle, and the rock adjoining, where, according to the legend, the hermit St. Helier lived, who bestowed his name on the town, it is not a bad plan to obtain a distinct bird’s-eye view of the island previous to examining it on a series of excursions, La Hogue Bie, or Prince’s Tower, a singular structure, erected on a high artificial mound about three miles from St. Helier’s, affords the opportunity of enjoying this to advantage. From the summit the eye embraces the whole island. Climbing the heights at the back of the town and passing St. Saviour’s Church, from the churchyard of which there is an excellent view over the town, the adjoining country, and St. Aubin’s Bay, we arrive at this famous tower, which has of course a very romantic, but not at all authentic, legend to account for its origin. From this eminence, to quote one of Mr. Inglis’s most graphic descriptions of the spot, “Jersey appears like an ‘extensive pleasure-ground—one immense park, thickly studded with trees, beautifully undulating, and dotted with cottages, Fertility is on every side seen meeting the sea; the fine curves of several of the bays may be distinctly traced, with their martello towers and other more imposing defences; several of the larger valleys may be distinguished by the shadow which is thrown upon one side, while all around the horizon is bounded by the blue sea, excepting towards the east, where the French coast is seen, stretching in a wide curve towards the north and south, and which, in one direction, approaches so near to Jersey, that the white sea-beach is distinctly seen, and in clear weather even the towns that lie near to the coast.” This view instantly makes you anxious to range over the island, to penetrate into the valleys and ravines, to wander through the orchards, fields, pastures, and gardens, and to descend to the bays and creeks, which one naturally and justly pictures full of beanty and repose. The new roads, that intersect the island in many directions, are excellent and commodious, but the old roads, though dreadfully perplexing and intricate, should be assuredly explored by those who desire to arrive at a fair estimate of the scenic attractions of the island. One object in the construction of the old roads in former days was to puzzle pirates or bewilder an enemy, and thus effectually retard and obstruct their attempts to subdue the islanders. During the heat of summer it is delightfully refreshing to turn aside into one of those bye-paths, that scarcely admit even a straggling ray of the noontide sun; but later in autumn, the decomposition of decaying vegetable matter going on in their shady depths render it advisable to prefer the new.

Those whose stay in the island is limited will, of course, be glad to make the most of its duration, and to that end we shall suggest how these excursions may be briefly made. The first day should be spent about St. Helier and its environs, with a visit to La Hogue Bie, and then passing on eastward to Mont Orgueil Castle, with its magnificent prospects, and the little village adjoining of Gorey, the seat of the Jersey oyster fishery. The village is built partly close to the sea and harbour, and partly on the height which rises towards the entrance to the castle. Upwards of 250 boats are engaged in the oyster fishery here, which it is computed returns about £29,000 to the island from its annual produce. Besides being itself striking and picturesque, Mont Orgueil has some most interesting recollections in connection with it. It stands upon the summit of a rocky headland jutting out into the sea, and though its origin and architect are alike unknown, it is recognised as having been a fortress of some importance in the reign of King John. In a few places the walls are entire, but it can hardly be regarded as other than an imposing ruin, from the summit of which a view is gained sufficiently charming to repay for the toilsome ascent. Here, for a short time, lived Charles II. in the early days of his wanderings, and here also was imprisoned for three years William Prynne, who, the victim himself of bigoted prejudices, ought to have more zealously curbed his own. He was liberated in November, 1640, not before he had turned his imprisonment to some account by penning several moral disquisitions on the castle and his condition, in one of which we find the following quaint appeal in the preface:—”If thou reap any information, consolation, reformation, or edification by any of these publications, let the author enjoy thy prayers and best respect, and his stationer thy custom.” The garrison at Mont Orgueil now consists only of a serjeant and two privates, whose duty is simply confined to hoisting a flag on holidays. From the summit, the Cathedral of Constance, in Normandy, can on clear days be distinguished.

On the second day the tourist can explore, in the opposite direction, westward, and cross from St. Helier’s to St. Aubin, either by a boat across the bay, or by taking a more circuituous land route over the fine firm sand at low water. Once the chief town in Jersey, and now even in its decadence eminently adapted for those who desire a quiet retreat, St. Aubin is beautifully situated. There is one steep straggling street, which drops abruptly down from an eminence towards the sea, but it is remarkably clean, and, though irregularly built, contains many excellent houses. The bay has also the benefit of a good pier, and the high cliffs around afford a shelter from the breezes, which are very prevalent in Jersey. “A perfectly calm day,” says a resident, peculiarly qualified to give his opinion on the subject, “is very rare, even in summer, and generally speaking even the finest weather may be called blowy weather.” Between St. Aubin’s and St. Brelade’s many interesting points of view will be disclosed, and the bay of St. Brelade’s is considered by Inglis to be the most attractive of all the island bays. He says—”Boulay Bay is grander; St. Aubin’s nobler; Rozel and Grève-de-Lecq more secluded; but in none of them do we find, so much as in St. Brelade’s, the union of the barren, the wild, and the picturesque; and in none of them do the works of men harmonise so well with the natural scenery that surrounds them.” On the western side of the bay stands the old parish church quite at the water’s edge, and only elevated a little above it, for the sea at high tide sweeps over the crumbling monuments in the churchyard. The church itself is exceedingly small, and has neither spire nor tower, but over the nave it is roofed like a house. There is certainly a round turret, which rises from the ground, but it is built in a nook, and ascends only to a small belfry. In the churchyard stands one of the old chapels of the island, built long before the churches, and this is the only one in tolerable preservation. It was called the Fisherman’s Chapel. If the day be now not too far spent, the excursion may be extended to the north western extremity of the island, and the tourist can thus visit Plement Point and Cape Grosnez. The caves adjoining are marine excavations in the lower part of a rocky hill, and are celebrated, like those in the Grève-de-Lecq, as great attractions to strangers. The northern coast of Jersey may well have one or two days exclusively appropriated to it. There is from Grève-de-Lecq to Boulay Bay a distance of between six and seven miles, and along this circuit objects of interest will be found rife in every direction. The bold scenery in Boulay Bay has been very much admired, and in fact the stupendous barriers of the northern coast contrast finely with the interior of the island, so luxuriantly wooded and so proverbially fertile. A favourite resort of pic-nic parties, and one of the sweetest of the island bays, is Rozel, situated a short distance from Boulay Bay, at the north-east corner of the island. Hemmed in by high cliffs and banks, with a few fishermen’s huts scattered along the beach, and deep wooded glens branching into the interior, it is just the place where a cold veal pie would taste most deliciously, or a sentimental ballad produce the most impressive effect.

The climate of Jersey is exceedingly mild, in consequence of the southern situation and aspect of the island, and the temperature being equalised by the vicinity of the sea. Frost never continues any length of time. Snow falls but seldom, and melts immediately, and even with Guernsey, there is a sensible difference of climate. Melons there are raised in hot-beds, but they grow profusely in the common garden-ground of Jersey. The inhabitants are social in disposition, and few places equally limited in extent enjoy a greater variety of amusement. In autumn and winter there is a continual round of assemblies, and in spring and summer the military reviews impart a lively aspect to the town. English habits are thoroughly engrafted on the island, the English language has become familiar to all classes, and throughout the whole of Jersey the barbarous Norman French may be pronounced on the decline.

Those who have an opportunity afforded them to visit the little islands of Alderney and Sark will not regret availing themselves of the offer, should there be fair weather attendant on the excursion. Sark—also called Serk or Sercq—is six miles to the east of Guernsey, and is rather more than three miles in length. Its average breadth is not quite a mile, and in one part it is actually not many yards wide, but the island is still a thriving and fertile spot, and maintains in independent comfort a population of nearly 600 healthy and hardy islanders. The cliffs by which it is bounded are from 100 to 200 feet high. The Coupée Rock, its chief wonder, is a narrow neck of land, about five feet broad, with a precipitous descent on each side of about 350 feet down to the sea. It is a favourite spot with “pic-nics,” but in windy weather is not to be ventured upon without caution. This remarkable island is a little kingdom in itself, being governed by a parliament of forty resident copyhold tenants, which meets three times a-year, under the command of the Lord of Sark. This assembly appoints the police force of the island, which consists of two individuals, and that this formidable couple are found sufficient may be presumed, from the fact, that though there is a gaol erected, no individual has ever been lodged in it since it was built. Midway between Sark and Guernsey are Herm and Jethou, two insignificant islets, the one containing a population of 41 and the other of 5. About twenty miles from Guernsey, north-east by north, and forty from Jersey, is the little island of Alderney, so famous for its celebrated cows. The island is about four miles long, a mile and a-half broad, and eight miles in circumference. The southeast coast is composed of some striking lofty cliffs, ranging from 150 to 200 feet in height. The inhabitants, chiefly fishermen, consist of about 5,000 individuals. Six miles to the west of Alderney are “The Caskets,” a dangerous cluster of rocks, included in the compass of a mile. They have three lighthouses, so p aced as to form a triangle, and be a protection to shipping, It was on these rocks that Prince William, only son of Henry I., perished by shipwreck, in the year 1119; and where, in 1744, the Victory was lost, with 1,100 men. From this it will be seen, that even when the attractions of Guernsey and Jersey are on the wane, there are some resources left in these excursions, which will give the tourist, who has no misgivings of the sea and the stalwart Channel boatmen, the opportunity of enjoying an additional round of novelties.

THIS beautiful island is divided into two parts by the river Medina, or Cowes, which rises in the south, and enters the sea at the town of Cowes, opposite the mouth of Southampton Bay. The south-east coast is edged with very steep cliffs of chalk and freestone, hollowed into caverns in various parts, and vast fragments of rock are scattered along the shore. The south-west side is fenced with lofty ridges of rock, and the western extremity of them is called the Needles. Among the products are a pure white pipe clay, and a fine white crystalline sand; of the latter, great quantities are exported for the use of the glass works in various parts.

The island is accessible by way of Portsmouth, Southampton, or Lymington, from which places there are steamers to Ryde, Cowes, and Yarmouth respectively; the first two are more convenient for Ventnor and the back of the Island; the last for Freshwater and the Needles. Supposing Ryde to be the starting point, two routes will take in almost everything in the island, which a hasty visitor would care to see. Those who desire to make a real acquaintance with all its attractions may spend many pleasant weeks in it, finding new walks every day.

The best part of the first or eastern route may be done by means of the Ryde and Cowes coaches in one day, for 9s. or 10s.; or fly to hold four may be had for a guinea a day. No coach travels the western route, which is much to be lamented, as there is no question that a drive over the Downs on this side of the Island (supposing a good road to be made), would be one of the most splendid imaginable.

STEAMERS to and from Cowes, Portsmouth, and Southampton several times daily, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

EXCURSION STEAMERS round the Island in the summer, on Mondays and Thursdays, at 12 noon. fare 3s.

RYDE is a beautiful bathing place, sloping, to the sea, 25 minutes (by steam) from Portsmouth, across Spithead. Long timber pier of 2,000 ft. (or two-fifths of a mile), commanding a fine prospect and a healthy blow; for which the charge is 2d. per head, and 1d. per package! New Victoria Yacht Club House, built 1847. Chantrey’s bust of Mr. Sanderson, in the Market Place. Holy Trinity Church, modern Gothic, with a spire 146 ft. high. Baths, hotels, lodgings (with gardens), are numerous, as are the walks and points of view around.

BRADING, a decayed place, with an old Town Hall near the church, in which are the monuments of the Oglanders of Nunwell. In the churchyard is the grave of little Jane, the subject of one of Legh Richmond’s well known stories. He was Vicar of Brading, and her cottage is pointed out under Brading Down. The harbour is like a shallow lagoon between Bembridge Point and St. Helen’s old chapel. Yaverland and its curious little church, Culver Cliff, 400 ft. high, with the Yarborough pillar on the top, and Whitecliff Bay below, are to the left.

† Was the seat of Wilkes. The pillar there was set up by aim to his friend Churchill.

This beautiful retreat is hid away among trees and corn-fields in summer, and is close to a chine or gash in the cliff, filled in with shrubs and trees, with a good beach for bathing and walking on below. Cook’s Castle, a ruined tower, 2 miles to the right. The road winds over the bold headland of Dunnose, with Shanklin Down on one side, 780 ft. high, Luccombe Chine on the other. Notice the views of Sandown Bay and the country behind you. Upon descending, the first glimpse of Undercliff appears on the right, looking something like the entrance to Matlock, while the broad blue stretches away to the left.

BONCHURCH, so called because the church is dedicated to St. Boniface. An exemplary young clergyman, the author of “Shadows of the Cross,” and John Stirling, whose Life, written by Carlyle, has excited considerable interest, are buried in it. The road is overshadowed with trees, and passes a lake and the Pulpit Rock. There is a charming path from Shanklin to Bonchurch, through the Sand-slip. Boniface Down, near Ventnor, rises steeply up 700 or 800 ft. above the sea.

HOTELS. —Royal—first-class hotel and boarding establishment, of a superior description; Marine—first-class family and commercial house. Esplanade Hotel and Boarding House, situated on the beach near the sea, and close to the Baths.

VENTNOR, the capital of Undercliff, had no existence 40 years ago, but is now a respectable town, with a population of 3,208. This is owing to its delightful situation in front of the sea, and being protected by the cliffs behind. Trees have not grown so fast as houses, which being of stone have a white glare in the summer sunshine; but it is in winter that its peculiar advantages are felt by the invalid, who then enjoys a climate not to be had in any other part of England except Torquay. Lodgings are abundant and moderate. Myrtles, fuchsias, and other plants grow to a large size. The Downs behind, affording endless rambles, are covered with heath and thyme. Houses occupy every accessible spot up and down the cliffs, with the Channel and the shipping perpetually in view. There is a new church, with assembly rooms, baths, &c. A fine, pebbly beach below, and attractive walks of all kinds. In the season provisions are scarce, and therefore dear, a drawback felt at Shanklin and other places on this side of the Island. Four or five coaches by way of Brading or Newport run to and fro between this and Ryde daily. Occasionally a steamer touches for Cowes or Ryde; but this is rare, and the landing is by boat. Excellent lobsters, crabs, and prawns. Some curious caves have been formed in the cliffs by the sea along the beach.

About three miles inland is Appuldercombe, the seat of the Earl of Yarborough, a building of the last century, in a large park on the slope of a down, at the corner of which is the Worsley pillar. Sir R. Worsley here made a collection of marbles and paintings. Many of the family are buried in Godshill church, which is one of the best in the island, and about four miles further.

From Ventnor to Black Gang the road winds along through Undercliff, among rocks, gardens, fields, seats, farm-houses, &c., dispersed most picturesquely about in a rocky ledge or strand formed by successive landslips from the neighbouring cliff, which rises up like a wall on your right, 100 to 150 feet high, the road itself being nearly as much above the sea, to your left. It is worth while to walk along the edge of this cliff for the sake of the panorama to be obtained of the scene below. Do not take this path at Ventnor, as it may be reached by leaving the road near St. Lawrence’s Well, and walking up the steps cut in the face of the cliff. A footpath also winds close to the sea out of sight of the road.

There is a spring of deliciously cool water on the road side, under an alcove. The church is a pretty little rustic building, with the grave-yard planted with flowers. Since it was lengthened it is 40 feet long, and will hold 40—a small number, but quite large enough for the population of the parish.

NITON has an old church, a little inland from the road, to the right. The seat of Sir J. W. Gordon, Bart, is passed before you come to this turning. The Cripple Path, a crooked way up the cliff. A milkwoman was once blown over this cliff, and, though she fell 60 or 70 feet, was picked up unhurt, having been buoyed up by her clothes. To the left are Puckester Cove, Sandrock, St. Catherine’s Light, Pitland Landslip, only to be seen by following another path nearer the shore.

^* Visited by the Queen and Prince Albert. † Here is a capital Hotel. ‡ 600 feet high. §The smallest in Great Britain. || Inigo Jones’ Gate from Hampton Court. ¶ Where Charles the Second landed in a Storm in 1675.

Black Gang Chine is a gap in the cliff, which hangs over the beach in Chale Bay. It is bare and somewhat dark-looking, with an iron spring trickling through it. The highest point is 600 or 700 feet, making it a tiresome job to ascend or descend the steps cut in the side on a summer’s day. But it is worth while to go down to the beach to watch the great waves as they roll in, especially if it is at all windy. Here the poor “Clarendon” came ashore. Behind it is St. Catherine’s Down, about 800 feet high, or 100 higher than Black Gang. There are the remains of a beacon on the top, which was used for the lighthouse till that was shifted to its present place; also a chapel or hermitage. Behind this stands a pillar, erected to commemorate the visit of a Russian Prince to this country. Though the highest point in the island, the view is by no means so good as many from the downs in the middle of it. In Chale Churchyard are the graves of several wrecked persons, especially of the crew of the “Clarendon,” East Indiaman. Hence to Freshwater is a succession of little bays and chines, none or much interest; a pathway follows the edge of the cliff. The high road passes through Thorwell (in a gap of the downs), Brixton or Bryston, and Brotlestone, all pretty places, under the downs to the right hand, which command an excellent prospect.

From Chale back to Ryde across the Island is through a pleasant but much less striking country than in the first part of the route. The road passes over Arreton Down.

Godshill church, in which the Worsleys are buried, has a good pinnacled tower. Appuldercombe, their delightful seat, is to the right. It can be visited on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 11 to 4, by ticket only; to be had of T. Sewel, Esq., Newport. It contains a good collection of paintings, sculptures, and drawings. Before you get to New-church, a turning to the left, you pass the cottage of the Dairyman’s Daughter, Arreton church, in which she is buried, and the Hare and Hounds, a neat tidy little country inn, close to which is a point from which the view corresponds to one described by Legh Richmond in his interesting work.

^* Where the Clarendon was lost. † Graves of the crew of the Clarendon. ‡ Took place in 1799. §In honour of the visit of a Russiau Prince to the Island.

NEWCHURCH, with its white spire. stands ‘at the end of a short village, near the stream which runs into Brading harbour. The parish is the largest in the island, with a population of 14,008, stretching across it so as to take in both Ryde and Ventnor. Fine views on both sides of the Down, which is 6 miles from Ryde.

Coach to Newport, 1s. You leave on the right, Binstead and its old church, near the coast. Beyond it are some slight remains of Quarr Abbey at a farm house; and an old stone quarry. Further on, towards Cowes are Whippingham church, and Osborne House, the seat of her Majesty the Queen. It has been entirely rebuilt, and stands on a ridge commanding a view of Spithead, the Solent, the Hampshire Coast, &c. When the Queen is there, the royal standard floats over the great tower. The Medina soon appears in its whole length down to Cowes, especially from some points near

COACHES to and from Cowes, Ryde, Yarmouth, and the places on the Eastern Route of the Island.

NEWPORT, the capital of the Island, a clean, well built country town, in a hollow, on the river Medina, which divides the Island nearly in halves. Cracknell biscuits are manufactured here; but Cowes is the real place where they were first made. Population 8,047. It sends two members to parliament. Town Hall. built 1816, by Nash. Old church, in which Charles I.’s daughter Elizabeth is buried. Large House of Industry for the Island, on the Cowes road; not far from the Albany barracks, whither recruits are sent for exercise, and the Parkhurst Reformatory for boys.

For those who desire to travel quickly from Newport to West Cowes, a railway communication has been opened out. It takes a direct course along the western side of the Medina.

STEAM VESSELS to Portsmouth, Ryde, and Southampton, six times a day; to Yarmouth, once daily.

COWES, five miles from Newport. An immense quantity of shipping call off here annually, from all parts of the globe, for orders from their owners or consignees, as to the destination of their cargoes; and in the winter months fleets of merchantmen of all nations rendezvous here weatherbound. It lies at the mouth of the Medina and is a stirring port, noted for its shipbuilding (especially at White’s yard), and yachting. There is deep water here; the Royal Yacht Club hold their regatta in August. Handsome Clubhouse, Old castle, built by Henry VIII., from which Cowes derives its name. Dr. Arnold was a native of Cowes. There is a ferry to East Cowes, across the Medina, beyond which Norris Castle and Osborne House are visible. Sailing boats 2s. per hour.

On the beach are bathing machines, and it is much visited by fashionable company.

^* Built before the Conquest. † Tomb of Charles First’s daughter, Princess Elizabeth. ‡ Monument to Tyerman the Missionary, and lines by Montgomery.

CARISBROOKE, the former capital, where the Governor used to reside. Old Church, close to some slight traces of a priory, founded after the Conquest, by William Fitz-Osborne, a Norman Knight, who built the Castle. This stands on a hill beyond the village and, including the wards, occupies a site of two acres within the walls. The fine gateway is machicolated, i. e., provided with slits for shooting arrows, &c., down on any one below. The keep commands a good view. There are some remains of the outer walls and towers; and they show (but this is doubtful) the window through which the unfortunate Charles I. tried to make his escape when imprisoned here 1648, in Colonel Hamond’s charge. A modern-built chapel and the barracks are disused. There is a well 200 feet deep of pure cold water, which is raised by a patient ass. A candle is let down to show the depth to the visitors. The views from it are pleasing, but not remarkable. Parkhurst Forest is seen, but scantily wooded. Roads turn off to Gatcombe Park, and to Shorwell, under the Downs; but the views are much inferior to those obtained from their summit, along which, however, there is no regular road.

At Swainstone, the seat of J. Simeon, Esq., a road turns off to Newtown, on a low creek of the Solent. It was a parliamentary borough till the reform bill disfranchised it; the town hall remains. The church was rebuilt 1837. All this coast is low and the least interesting of any in the Island.

CALEOURNE has an old church and is near to Westover Park. To the right, about two miles, is Shalfleet church, which contains a Norman porch, and the escutcheon of William de Montacute, to whom Wight was granted by Richard II.

The road skirts the north base of the Downs, with a prospect over the partly cultivated tract to the north, the Solent, and Hampshire. At length we reach Freshwater Village, at the head of Yarmouth Creek, Freshwater Gate being to the left. Dr. Hook the philosopher was born at the parsonage.

STEAMERS to Lymington and Cowes, daily. Fares, to Lymington, 1s. 6d. and 1s.; Day Tickets, 3s. To Cowes, 2s. 6d. and 1s. 6d.; Day Tickets, 4s. and 2s. 6d.

YARMOUTH, another decayed borough, originally founded by the Rivers family. There is a town hall, one of Henry VIII.’s forts, and a church, in which is a monument of Sir Robert Holmes, Captain of the Island, at the visit of Charles II. in 1671. He resided at what is now the King’s Head Inn. Hurst Castle is opposite.

FRESHWATER GATE, where the baths and lodging houses are stationed, is half a mile from the village, on the south side of the Downs, in a gap of the cliffs, which rise up 500 and 600 feet above the sea, white and dazzling, producing a grand effect. They are streaked with parallel lines of flint. Lobsters, &c., are good. Here is the residence of Alfred Tennyson, the poet laureate. Between this and the Needles are several remarkable objects, most of which can be visited only in a boat (10s. or 20s. the trip), when there is little sea. Even with fine weather the long swell is apt to be disagreeable. In Freshwater Bay, fronting the baths are Deer Island; Neshanter cave, 120 feet deep, 35 wide; the Arch Rock, 600 feet out from the shore; Watcombe bay and its caves; Neptune’s cave, 200 feet long; Beak cave, 90 feet; High Down Cliff, 217 feet high, swarming with puffins, razor-birds, &c.; Frenchman’s Hole, 90 feet; Holmes’s Parlour and Kitchen; Roe’s Hall, 600 feet long, close to the Wedge Rock, so called because of a great block jammed in a gap, into which it has fallen; Old Pepper Rock; Main Bench Cliff, full of birds; Scratchell’s Bay and Scratchell’s Cave, 200 feet high, with an overhanging roof; Needles Cave, 300 feet long; the Needles Rocks, four or five blunt peaks, with deep water round them, at the west end of the Island. There was a sharp rock 120 feet high, but it fell down in 1776. On the cliffs above, 469 feet high, is the lighthouse, seen 27 miles. Round this point, (or 1½ mile across the downs, from Freshwater) is

^* Sir Richard Holmes’ Monument—Governor of the Island in 1671, when visited by Charles II.

The cliffs on one side are white, and on the other are curiously variegated with strata of ochre, fuller’s earth, grey and white sand, &c. Here large prawns are found. The cliffs gradually fall to Cary’s Sconce, where a strong fort is being constructed. Copperas stones, lignite, or wood coal, alum, pipe clay, shells, and fossils are discovered in this quarter of the Island.

This route, seldom taken by visitors, but a most attractive one for walkers, is towards Head-on-Hill (where fine white sand is dug for the glassmakers), and along the Downs, through the middle of Wight. The distances from Culver Cliff are:—

Culver Cliff, 400 feet high. View over White Cliff Bay, Spithead, &c. Yarborough Pillar, on Bembridge Down, overlooks the harbour. It was built up in 1849, in honour of the late earl; and serves as a landmark.

Arched Rock (600 feet). † A Fort is being erected here.
‡ 715 feet above the level of the sea.
§200 feet. || Birth place of Dr. Hook, the philosopher.

Brading Down. A noble view here, from the ring; Portsmouth, Spithead, Chichester Cathedral, Osborne, Sandown Bay, Shanklin Down, and one-third of the Island, all seen on a sunshiny day. Brading church, Nunwell, the seat of Sir H. Oglander, Bart., are immediately below.

Ashey Down. Fine views from the sea marks, but you must shift about to take them in. Newchurch, &c., visible.

Arreton Down. View of the cultivated tract to Undercliff and Shorwell. The road follows Long Lane into Newport, but a short cut may be found to Carisbrook or Gatcombe, shortening the distance to the Western Downs, by a mile or two. After Caris-brook you ascend to Bowcomb and Roughborough Downs, and thence to Galebery or Galleyberry Down by a rough path, which now and then leads through a turnip field as it approaches the heath, and then brings you into a solitary hollow, smooth and green round its sides, and patched with furze bushes. You may walk for miles without meeting a soul, except a shepherd, or a farmer on horseback. At Galleyberry there is a splendid view of this half of the Island, with the ridge of Down before you, to the Needles, up and down like the back of a camel, To get refreshment, you must descend the slope, to Shorwell, Brixton, Calbourn, &c., at the bottom. Another fine view from Brixton Down. Brixton is a pretty place (though not more beautiful than most others in the Island), with a chine down to the shore.

Motteston Down, 700 feet high, near the Druid stone. Sir John Cheke, King Edward’s tutor, was born at this village. Shalcombe Down; then

Needles Down, 500 feet. A road up to the light, with Alum Bay on one side, and Scratchell’s Bay on the other. The Hampshire and Dorsetshire coast to the right, and Portland Bill (perhaps), may be seen in the distant horizon.

This line of railway passes through a country of picturesque character and antiquarian interest. It branches off from the South Western Railway at the upper end of the town of Southampton, and passes through a tunnel under the old road to London. The tunnel is nearly 531 yards in length, and is cut through a soil of gravel and clay. The railway then passes on viâ the stations of REDBRIDGE, TOTTON (for Eling), and LYNDHURST ROAD, (none of which require special notice), to

This station is most exquisitely situated amidst the charming scenery of the New Forest. In the churchyard are some very large yew and oak trees. The Rev. William Gilpin, the author of “Forest Scenery,” &c., &c., founded two schools here, and endowed them with the profits arising out of the sale of a part of his writings, &c. Some of these realised as much as £1,200, in the year 1802, and subsequently, after his death, another lot fetched as much as £1,500. He lies buried in Boldre churchyard.

Turning to the left from this station, a run of about twenty minutes brings us to the parliamentary borough of

A town prettily situated on the right bank of the river Lymington. Its maritime operations are chiefly confined to the Isle of Wight, with which it has frequent communication. Salt is extensively manufactured in the neighbourhood. The parish church, dedicated to Thomas à Becket, has many striking monuments.

The town is situated on the Avon, on the borders of the New Forest, and forms the junction of a short line, about seven miles in length. It passes the station of

HERNE, near to which is Heron Court, the seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. It is in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and has some choice pictures.

CHRISTCHURCH (at the confluence of the Avon and Stour) is a town containing some beautiful relies of the past in the ruins of its ancient collegiate church and priory, which are well worthy of notice. The church, which has been restored, is 310 feet long. It has a trade in knit and silk stockings, &c.

WHICH is bounded on the north by Wiltshire, on the east by Hampshire, on the west by Devon and part of Somerset, and on the south by the British Channel. Its form is everywhere irregular; its long northern side has a considerable angular projection in the middle; the sea shore on the south runs out into numerous points and headlands, till it stretches to the Isle of Portland; thence westward the coast is not so deeply indented, but inclines obliquely towards Devonshire.

Great numbers of sheep and oxen are fed in the vale of Blackmore; which is distinguished by its rich pasture. Many of the other vales on the south western side are likewise uncommonly luxuriant. The inhabitants of Dorsetshire have paid great attention to the rearing of sheep, and it has been estimated this county alone produces more than 800,000 of these animals.

Dorsetshire, from the mildness of its climate and the beauty of its situation has been termed the garden of England. The soils vary in different parts. About Bridport the lower lands are mostly deep rich leams; on the higher hills, throughout the western district, the soil is sandy loam, intermixed with a common kind of flint. There are nearly forty rivers in this county, the principal of which are the Stour and Frome.

The chalk hills, which run through every county from the south-east part of the kingdom thus far, terminates at the further extremity of this; but on the coast chalk cliffs extend beyond it into Devonshire. Dorsetshire is distinguished for its woollen manufactures, and its fine ale and beer. The products are corn, wool, hemp, fire-stone, and some marble; and there is plenty of poultry of all sorts. The principal minerals are two kinds of freestone. Potters’ clay is very abundant.

The town is about half a mile from the station. The Minister, or Collegiate Church, 180 feet long, is a most interesting relic of antiquity, said to have been erected between the years 705 and 723. The whole building has a cathedral-like appearance, and consists of a nave, choir, and transepts. Amongst the illustrious dead whose ashes repose within its walls, are those of king Ethelred, whose remains are said to have been interred here. One of its effigies is supposed to represent King Alfred’s brother. There are also monuments to two of De Foe’s daughters, and some lines by Prior on that of Ettriche the antiquary. The tithes are worth nearly £3,000 a year.

The station of Wimborne is at the base of an embankment; it is built, like most of the others on this line, of red brick, with dressings of yellow brick, in the Tudor style of architecture.

POPULATION, 3,857, engaged principally in the manufacture of buttons, and agriculture. At various periods in its earlier history it has sustained much damage by fire, which had the effect of almost annihilating the place, although now a town of considerable importance. The date of the last fire may be seen on the side of a pump. In the church are monuments to the Pitts.

The line proceeds from Wimborne over the wooden viaduct across the river Stour, and the next station we reach is Poole Junction, to which town a branch rail of 1¾ mile runs.

A Dorsetshire borough and port, on the South-Western Railway, 122 miles from London, by a small branch out of the main line. The neighbourhood is a dreary plain of sand and furze. Population 9,759, who return two members. Having been founded since the Conquest, it is a comparatively modern town, but has always preserved a respectable position as a third or fourth class port. The harbour, though six or seven miles long, and nearly as broad (when the tide is up) is choked with sand, but there is a good deep-water channel inside the bar. Salt fish and American timber are imported; and one of the chief exports is potters’ clay from Purbeck, of so good a quality that it is proposed to establish potteries on a great scale here—especially as the transit for coal is now easy and direct. There are two miles of quay room. Here Charles X. landed 1830, after his flight from Paris.

The town is pretty well built, on a point of land between the harbour and Holes Bay,(the entrance to which is crossed by a bridge at the bottom of High Street), but offers nothing remarkable in its public structures, except an old disused town hall, built 1572, and the large modern church, in which is an altar-piece of carved work. One piece of antiquity is an old gate built in the reign of Richard III. In the middle of the harbour (or pool, which gives name to the town), is Brownsea Island, the seat of Sir S. Foster, Bart. Near the mouth of the harbour is an oyster bank, from which vast quantities are carried to the creeks of Essex and the Thames.

North of Poole, towards Wimborne Minster are Upton, the seat of Sir E. Doughty, Bart. Candford Lodge, occupied by the late Dowager Queen Adelaide, in 1844, now belongs to Lady Guest, the great iron proprietress; for a few years it was a convent (when in possession of Lord de Mauley), and is near an ancient house called John of Gaunt’s.

Kitchen Heath, with patches of woodland about here. Lytchett Minster, Sir S. Scott, Bart. Blox-worth is near a camp—there is another at Henburgh (G. Harris, Esq.) Charborough, among woods, the seat of J. Drax, Esq., M.P., deserves notice for a small building in the grounds, with an inscription stating that “under this roof, in the year 1686, a set of patriotic gentlemen of this place, concocted the plan of the Glorious Revolution, &c.” Kingston Lacy is the seat of W. Bankes, Esq., a descendant of Bankes the traveller, where there is a good picture gallery, and an Egyptian obelisk from Phïloë, on the Nile, of the base of which the late Duke of Wellington laid the first stone in 1827.

About seven miles east of Poole, in Hampshire, is Bournemouth, a quiet bathing place in the chine of the low cliffs, among much woodland. About ten miles south-east, the Needles, rocks, and cliffs at the west end of the Isle of Wight are visible, especially in the bright gleam of a setting sun.

The town, situated on a rising ground, at the top of Poole harbour was once a Roman station and a port, now a borough (returns one member), in the neighbourhood of which much potters’ and fire-stone clay is found. There was a Norman castle here; and the church of St. Mary is half Norman. The corner of Dorsetshire between this and the sea is called the Isle of Purbeck. though only a peninsula about 11 miles long. A chalk ridge runs through it, 640 to 650 feet high, to Swanage and Studland bays; beyond which are the beds of Kimmaridge clay (in which alum and lignite coal have been worked) and Purbeck stone—the latter much variegated, rich in shells, and Saurian fossils, and of a smooth marble quality. The West India Docks, and many old churches, have been built of it. In a gap of the downs, about five miles to the south, is

Corfe Castle, originally Saxon, of which the keep, chapel, king’s and queen’s towers, the drawbridge, &c., remain. Here Edward, “king and martyr” as he is styled in the calendar, was assassinated by his mother-in-law, Elfrida, in 978. It was the scene of other melancholy events; and during the civil war became famous for the gallant defence made by the wife of Chief Justice Bankes, in behalf of the king, Lady Bankes being assisted by her daughters, maids, and five soldiers only. After investing it for ten weeks the Roundheads were obliged to raise the siege. The church is Norman. Studland, the seat of the Right Honourable G. Bankes. The coast, from this round Durlestone and St. Alban’s Head, and further, is all cliff, without the least shelter. On the summit of St. Alban’s Head, 440 feet high, is an ancient square vaulted chapel, resting on a single pillar, with no windows, but a Norman door. Encombe House, near this, Lord Eldon’s seat. Further along the coast, towards Weymouth, is Lulworth Cove, a beautiful sheltered inlet overlooked by swelling downs, the cliffs of which swarm with sea birds. Lulworth Castle, the Welds’ seat, was built 1609, in the shape of an exact cube, 80 feet each way, out of the materials of an abbey. Here Charles X. resided for a while in 1830.

FAIRS. —February 14th, Trinity Monday, July 6th, August 6th, and September 29th.

The station is about a quarter of a mile from the town, well situated, and neat in its arrangements, the arrival and departure platforms and coverings being complete, and well ordered in every respect.

Dorchester is a small parliamentary borough, and the capital of Dorsetshire, in a pretty part of the South Downs, at the termination of the South Western railway, 141 miles from London. It returns two members; population, 6,823. A trade in sheep, grain and other agricultural produce. It is pleasantly situated on an ascent above the river Frome. The town forms an irregular square, and consists principally of three spacious streets, which join each other about the middle; these, with the subordinate ones, are well paved, and, in general, adorned with handsome buildings of brick and stone. In early times it was a Roman town called Durnovaria, after a burn or water Dwr which runs through it,—the Frome, crossed by three small bridges. Parts of the ancient walls remain, about 6 ft. thick, the stones or tiles being laid herring-bone fashion, which usually marks Roman work. Another undoubted relic of their rule is Maumbury Ring, an amphitheatre cut in the chalk, 30 ft. deep, and about 340 ft. diameter. It is to the south of the town, close to the Roman way. Remains of seats are visible; and when Mary Channing was burned here in 1705, for poisoning her husband, it held 10,000 spectators. It is calculated to hold 12,960. Poundbury, Maiden Castle, and other camps raised by the Britons or Saxons are within view. Many coins called Dorn pennies were found on the site of the large County Gaol.

Dorchester has three churches, one rather old, and St. Peter’s, with a tower; County Hall and Town Hall, a cloth factory and barracks. The walks in the neighbourhood are pleasant. About 700,000 South Down sheep are fed on the hills, and early house lamb is sent to market; while the pastures to the north, on the Stour &c. yield excellent Dorset butter (which being washed is often sold for fresh), and Double Dorset streaked skim cheese. Black Down, one of the highest points, is 817 feet above the sea.

Nothing can be more striking and picturesque than the situation of this delightful watering-place. The town is built on the western shore of one of the finest bays in the English Channel, and being separated into two parts by the river, which forms a commodious harbour, it is most conveniently situated for trade. Population, 11,383. A long and handsome bridge of two arches, constructed of stone, with a swivel in the centre, was erected in 1820, and thus the divided townships enjoy a communication. The town, especially on the Melcombe side of the harbour, is regularly built, and consists chiefly of two principal streets, parallel with each other, intersected with others at right angles; it is well paved and lighted, and is tolerably supplied with fresh water. Since the town has become a place of fashionable resort for seabathing, various handsome ranges of buildings, and a theatre, assembly rooms, and other places of public entertainment, have been erected, and these are now rapidly extending and increasing in every direction. The principal of these are Belvidere, the Crescent, Gloucester Row, Royal Terrace, Chesterfield Place, York Buildings, Charlotte Row, Augusta Place; and Clarence, Pulteney, and Devonshire Buildings, are conspicuous; to which may perhaps be added Brunswick Buildings, a handsome range of houses at the entrance of the town. From the windows of these buildings, which front the sea, a most extensive and delightful view is obtained, comprehending on the left a noble range of hills and cliffs, extending for many miles in a direction from west to east, and of the sea in front, with the numerous vessels, yachts, and pleasure boats, which are continually entering and leaving the harbour.

To the west of the harbour are the barracks, a very neat and commodious range of buildings. The Esplanade is one of the finest marine promenades in the kingdom. It is a beautiful terrace, thirty feet broad, rising from the sands, and secured by a strong wall, extending in a circular direction parallel with the bay for nearly a mile, and commanding a most beautiful panorama of the sea, cliffs, and the mountainous range of rocks by which the bay is enclosed.

On the Esplanade is the Royal Lodge where George III. and the Royal family resided, and here also will be found the principal public libraries, echoing with the dulcet strains of some experimental musician.

The Theatre is a neat and well arranged edifiee, in Augusta Place, but it is seldom inconveniently crowded. Races are held early in September, and during their continuance a splendid regatta is celebrated in the bay, which has a fine circular sweep of two miles; and being sheltered by a continuous range of hills from the north and north-east winds, the water is generally very calm and transparent. The sands are smooth, firm, and level, and so gradual is the descent towards the sea, that, at the distance of 100 yards, the water is not more than two feet deep. Bathing-machines of the usual number and variety are in constant attendance, and on the South Parade is an establishment of hot salt-water baths, furnished with dressing-rooms and every requisite accommodation. At the south entrance of the harbour are the higher and lower jetties, the latter of which is a little to the east of the former. The sea has been for a long series of years retiring from the eastern side of the harbour, and part of the ground over which it formerly flowed is now covered with buildings, other parts being enclosed with iron railings, which form a prominent feature on the Esplanade. On the Weymouth side are the Look Out and the Nothe, affording extensive and interesting prospects; on the latter is a battery, formerly mounted with six pieces of ordnance, which, on the fort being dismantled, were removed into Portland Castle. Within the walls a signal post has been established, which communicates with several other stations, and apartments have been built for the accommodation of a lieutenant and a party of men. The bay affords ample facilities for aquatic excursions at any time, its tranquil surface being never disturbed except by violent storms from the south or south-west. Yachts and pleasure boats are always in readiness, and the fares kept strictly under municipal supervision.

No place can be more salubrious than Weymouth. The air is so pure and mild, that the town is not only frequented during the summer, but has been selected by many opulent families as a permanent residence; and the advantages which it possesses in the excellence of its bay, the beauty of its scenery, and the healthfulness of its climate, have contributed to raise it from the low state into which it had fallen from the depression of its commerce, to one of the most flourishing towns in the kingdom.

About a mile to the south-west are the remains of Weymouth or Sandsfoot Castle, erected by Henry VIII. in the year 1539, and described by Leyland as “a right goodly and warlyke castle, having one open barbicane.” The burning cliff at Weymouth—a kind of miniature volcano—has long attracted the notice of uaturalists, and will well repay a visit. At Nottington, about two miles and a-half distant, on the Dorchester road, is a mineral spring, the water of which is considered efficacious in cases of scrofula.

About four miles south from Weymouth, is the island of Portland, which, though thus called, is in reality, a peninsula, connected with the mainland by an extremely narrow isthmus, called Chesil Bank, a line of shingles thrown up by the sea, and extending for more than eight miles, from Portland to Abbotsbury, It is not more than two miles broad and four long; and though the shores are steep and rugged, the surface of the soil at the summit is smooth, and yields wheat, oats, and barley of average quality. At the southern extremity, called Portland Bill, are the higher and lower lighthouses, and a signal station, called the “Lowes;” near the former is a remarkable cavern, from which the water rises as from a fountain. On the eastern side are Rufus and Pennsylvania Castles, and on the northern side are Portland Castle, and another signal station

A trip to the island is one of the most favourite excursions generally offered, among other temptations, to travellers, and will furnish materials for an interesting day’s enjoyment. Indeed, this picturesque coast is unrivalled. The sea view is agreeably diversified with grand and striking objects, to break the monotony that usually pervades a marine prospect. The coast of this part of Dorsetshire itself presents also grand and striking points. St. Alban’s Head and Tulworth Cove, with their bold and soaring cliffs, are sublime and astonishing features in the vast picture that we look upon from hence. The surrounding country is full of castellated remains and interesting historical associations. In the neighbouring isle of Purbeck are the ruins of Corfe Castle, memorable for the assassination of King Edward the Martyr. Milton Abbey is even yet beautiful, under the decaying winters of many ages; and at Sherborne Castle there are many architectural fragments that still attest the genius of the ill-fated but high-minded Raleigh, and a garden, too, whose shades, planted by his hand, now overlook and wave above those walls which once afforded them shelter, honour, and protection. The rides about Smallmouth Sands, Upway, and beyond the source of the river Wey, are replete with picturesque and ever-changing objects, and the beauty of the town itself is not a little enhanced by the remaining ruins of Weymouth Castle, a scanty relic of he troublous times of old.

The latitude of Weymouth is one degree farther south than London, and many plants which require protection from the cold in other parts of the country here flourish through the winter in the open air. The geranium grows luxuriantly, and requires little care, and the large and small-leaved myrtle are out-of-door plants. Indeed, so salubrious is the climate, that Dr. Arbuthnot, who came in his early days to settle at Weymouth, observed that no physician could either live or die there. This, however, savours more of flattery than fact, as present observation will fully testify.

As a place for sea-bathing Weymouth is perfect, and the accommodation of about twenty or thirty machines, always ready, near the centre of the Esplanade, greatly facilitates that operation. The sands over which the bathers have to walk are well known as of the finest description; the declivity of the shore is almost imperceptible, and totally free from those obstructions which are noticed on many parts of the southern coast, so that the most timid can indulge in the luxury of open sea-bathing, with the additional comfort of perfect security and of sea-water, pure, clean, and transparent. Neat and commodious warm salt-water baths will also be found on the South Parade, opposite the harbour.

Abbotsbury, near the west end of the fleet or lake inside the Chesil bank, is the seat of the Earl of Ilchester, and has a decoy and swannery, Further along the coast is

	Miles.
Angmering Park	4½
Atherington	2½
Badworth Park	1½
Billinghurst	16
Binsted	1½
Bognor	6½
Burlavingtor	7½
Burnham	4
Bury	5
Coldwatham	8
Comb Lodge	5¼
Court Week	2
Dale Park	3
Dover House	3
Hardham	7½
Horsham Station	22
Houghton	4½
Leominster Station	2
Madehurst	4
Michel Grove	6
North Heath	10½
North Stoke	4½
North Wood	5½
Offham	3½
Peppering	4
Petworth	11
Waltham	6
Warning Camp	3
West Burton	6
Wepham	4
Wild Bank Common	6
Yapton	1½

	Miles.
Aldingbourne	1
Aldwick	5
Arundel	5¼
Bognor	4
Calworth	2
Castle Hill	1½
Eartham	3
East Dean	6
Eastergate	0¾
Feltham	2½
Goodwood	4
Guildford	34
Halnaker	3
Halnaker House	3½
Head Wane	2½
Houghton	6
Kneighton Park	1¾
Lidsey	2
Limner Pond	2
Little Bognor	2½
Night Timber	5
North Bersted	2
North Field	1½
Norton	1¾
Nudhurst & Petworth	12
Poor House	1¼
Shiripland	2
Shripudy	2
South Bersted	2
Tangmere	2½
Upper Waltham	6
Westergate	1¼

	Miles.
Aldingbourne	5
Almondington Green	6
Applesham	1½
Birdham	4
Bognor	7
Bosham	3
Boxgrove	3½
Chidham	5
Dell Quay	2
Donnington	1½
East Ashling	3
Emsworth	7
Fishbourne	2
Frintington	5
Goodwood	3
Gosden Green	6
Halnaker Park	3½
Highley	3¾
Holt’s Green	3
Hunston	2
Kingsham	1
Lepring	4
Marden North	8
Mid Lavant	3
Mitener	6
Northlands	3
Old Brook	2
Old Park	2½
Racton	4
Rumbolds Wyke	2
Salt Hill	2
Shopwick	2
Sidelsham	5
Singleton	6
Stanstead House	9
Stoke House	3
Stoughton	5
Tangmere	3½
Thorney Island	8
Tirwick	15
Walton	2
Westbourne	7
West Dean	5
West Hampnett	3
West Itchenor	6
West Lavant	2½
Westerton	3
West Stoke	3
Woodlands (Captain James Lyon)	8½

	Miles.
Barracks	1¾
Bate Bridge	1½
Brazil Mill	1¾
Brentford Station	2¾
Butcher’s Grove	2
Cranford Bridge	2½
Feltham	2
Halton	2
Hampton	2
Hanworth	2
Hanworth Farm	1¾
Heston	1¾
Heston House	1¾
Hospital Bridge	1½
Hounslow	1
Isleworth	1
Knellar Hall	0½
Lampton Field	1
Mortlake	3½
Norwood	2½
Osterley Park	1¾
Powder Mills	1½
Spring Grove	2
Sunbury	3
Sutton	1¼
Twickenham Green	1¼
Twickenham Sta.	1
Whitton	0½
Whitton Warren	1¼
Wolton	0¼

	Miles.
Ryde to Brading	4
Sandown	2
Shanklin	3
Succombe	2
Bonchurch	1
Ventnor	2
Ventnor to St. Lawrence	2
Niton	3
Blackgang	2
Gatcombe	4
Ryde	8
N.B.—Black Gang to Freshwater	14½

Ryde to Wooton	3
Newport	4
Carisbrooke	1
Calbourne
Calbourne to Freshwater
Alum Bay	2
Needles	0½

	Miles.
Apley	0¾
Barnsley	1½
Binstead	0¾
Copping Bridge	5½
Fairy Hill	1¼
Fearlee	5
Fishburn Rock	2¾
Haven Street	2½
Needles, The	18
Nettleston Point	2
Pier, The	0¼
Place Street	0½
Portsmouth	8
Priory, The	0¾
Quarr Abbey	2
Ryde House	1½
Ryde Park	1½
St. Clare	1½
St. John’s	1
Stokes Bay	3
Troublefield	0¾
West Cowes	8
West Mount	1½
Whippingham	3½
White Mark	2½

	Miles.
Adgeton	1
Brading	2
Culver Cliff	2
Knighton	3
Ryde	6
†Sandown Cottage	1
Sandown Lake	1

	Miles.
Allen	2
Beacon (Shanklin)	1
Bonchurch	3
Boniface Down	0¼
Brenston	2
Chiverton	1½
Cook’s Castle	2
Dunnose	1¼
Great Kennedy	4
Horse Ledge	0½
Langard	1
Luccombe Chine	1
Shanklin Chine	0½
Steephill Cove	2
Strattle	3½
Winham	1½
Wroncate	2

	Miles.
Appuldercombe	2
Beacon The	1¼
Binnel Point	1
St. Boniface Down	1½
Dunnose	0¾
Godshill	3
Lake, The	2½
Luccombe	1
Mill Cove	0½
Nettlecomb	2
Puckester Cove	3½
Pulpit Rock	1½
Rind	3½
Sandford	2½
Steephill	0¾
Steephill Cove	0½
St. Lawrence	2
Ventnor	2
Wroncate	0¾

	Miles.
Blackgang	7
Luccombe Chine*	0½
Mirables	3½
Sand Rock†	4
Shanklin	2
Steephill	0½
St. Boniface Down ‡	0½
Undercliff	2
Ventnor Cove	0½
Wishing Well	0¾

	Miles.
Black Gang Chine	2
Chale	2
Cripple Path, The	0¼
Nettlecomb	1½
Niton House	0½
Old Castle, The	1
Pitland Land Slip	1½
¶Puckester Cove	1
Sandrock Spring	1½
St. Catharine’s Down	1
St. Catharine’s Point	1½
St. Catharine’s Tower	1¼
Whitwell	1
Woolverton	1

	Miles.
Chale Bay*	0¾
Churchyard†	0¼
Pitland Land Slip‡	1
St. Catharine’s Pillar§	0¾

	Miles.
Adgeton	2
Arreton	1½
Arreton Street	1
Brading	3
Chiverton	1½
Gatcombe House	4
Great Kennerley	2½
Long Down	3
Queen’s Bower	1¼
Rookley	3½
Ryde	6
Sandown and Sandford	3
Shitle Bridge	3½
Spicer’s Hall	1
Stone	1¼
Strattle	2
Winham	2

	Miles.
Albany Barracks	0½
Alvington	2
Arreton	2½
Barton Point	4
Birchmore	2½
Blackland	2½
Brettleford	2½
Carisbrooke	1
*Carisbrooke Castle	1½
Carisbrooke Church	1¼
Carisbrook Priory, Ruins of	1¼
†Church, Old	0¼
King’s Forest	0½
Kite Hill	5
Marcliff	4½
‡Node Hill	2
Norris Castle	0½
Park Cross	4
Parkhurst Reformatory Institution	0½
Thorness	4
West Cowes	5
Wootton and Bridge.	3½

	Miles.
Barton	2
Baskets	1¾
East Cowes	0¾
*East Cowes Castle	1½
Egypt	1
Gurnet Farm	1
King’s Key	3
Kingston	1½
Noder	1½
Northwood	1½
†Northwood House	0½
Osborne	1¼
West Cowes House	0¼
Yacht Club House	0½

	Miles.
Atherfield	6
Calbourne	4
Castle, The	0½
Chillerton	3
Church, Old	0¼
Gatcombe	2
Newport	1
Well, The	6½

	Miles.
Afton Down	2½
Calbourne	4½
* Church, The	0¼
Clanmore	1
Compton	3
Curlew	4½
East Hamstead	3
Forts, The	1
Freshwater	2
Freshwater Gate	3
Hurst Castle	2½
Lingwood	2
Lymington	5
Newtown Harbour	4
Norton	0¾
Scone Point	1
Tapnel	2½

	Miles.
* Alum Bay	2¾
†Cary’s Stone	2
‡Light House	2½
§Neptune’s Cave	3¼
Neshanter Cave	3½
\|\|Parsonage, The	2
Scratchell’s Cave	2

	Miles.
To Afton Down	19
,, Ashey Mark	4
,, Brading Down	3
,, Brixton Down	15
,, Carisbrook	10½
,, Freshwater Gate	20¼
,, Gallyberry Down	13
To Hare & Hounds on Arreton Down	6¾
,, Motteston Down	16½
,, Needles Light	23½
,, Newport	9
,, Shalcombe Down	18
,, Yarborough Pillar	1