Bradshaw’s Descriptive Railway Hand-Book

Note to Readers: This is as faithful a reproduction of BRADSHAW’S HANDBOOK 1863 as is practicable in this electronic format. Grammatical and typographical irregularities have been deliberately retained from that original, to give as close an approximation as possible of the Victorian reader’s experience of the book.

GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY .

London to Slough.

THE Metropolitan Terminus of the Great Western Railway is situated on the western side of the Paddington Canal, in a line with Praed-street, Paddington, at the north-west extremity of London, and at a short distance from the northern avenues to Hyde Park, thus affording an easy access to and from all parts of town. Omnibuses leave the City one hour before the departure of each train, and call at all the booking-offices on their way, which, in addition to the cabs, leave the passenger at no loss for a prompt conveyance to this Terminus—one of the largest and most commodious stations in London. Its external appearance is not very remarkable,—but the booking-offices are convenient, the waiting-rooms comfortable, the platforms, for the arrival and departure trains, spacious enough to accommodate the largest number of excursionists ever accumulated,—and the vast area embraced by the immense roofs by which the station is covered, impart to the mind of the traveller the impression that he is about to start by the railway of a first-rate company.

It is the joint work of Messrs. Brunei and M. D. Wyatt, the former having arranged the general plan, engineering, and business portion; the latter the architectural details in every department. The principle adopted by them, was to avoid any recurrence to existing styles and to make the experiment of designing everything in accordance with the structural purpose or nature of the materials employed—iron and cement. The office buildings are 580 feet long, varying from thirty to forty in width. The departments for directing and managing the affairs of the Company are carried on in the upper portion of the building, and those in connection with the traffic to and from the station in the lower part.

The space occupied by the platforms and lines of railway under the curved roofing is 700 feet long, and 240 feet six inches wide, and contains four platforms and ten lines of railway. The two platforms on the departure side of the station are respectively twenty-seven feet and twenty-four feet six inches wide; and the other two, on the arrival side, are twenty-one feet and forty-seven inches. The latter is of stone. The roofing over the above space is divided into three longitudinal openings, with two transepts, each fifty feet wide, at one-third and two-thirds of the length, the length of which are each 700 feet, and their respective widths seventy feet, 102 feet six inches, and sixty-eight feet. The central half of the curved roofs is glazed, and the other portion is covered with corrugated galvanized iron. The work was done by Messrs. Fox, Henderson, and Co.

On the departure of the train, it threads the sinuosities of the station at an easy rate, and we have time to notice the metamorphosis that has taken place in the environs of the line; walls have become green embankments, embankments diminished into hedges, and hedges grown into avenues of trees, waving a leafy adieu as we are carried past. The increasing velocity of the train now conveys us rapidly into the suburbs of the metropolis—past Kensal Green Cemetery on the right, Wormwood Scrubbs on the left, and a transient glimpse is obtained of the London and North-Western Railway winding its course towards the midland counties.

The route at first lies through the Thames Valley, then, after passing the elevated plains to the north of Marborough Downs, it gradually descends down into the fertile and picturesque valley of the Avon. Emerging from a slight excavation, we come to an embankment crossing Old Oak Common so named from its having been the site of a thick forest of oaks. The village of Acton, which lies to the left is linked to the metropolis by one almost uninterrupted line of houses, through which the North-Western Junction Railway passes, connecting the North-Western Railway with those of the South-Western.

EALING STATION. — Gunnersbury Park, Baron Rothschild; Castlebear Hill, and Twyford Abbey, close by. Thence passing the pretty hamlet of Drayton Green, we stop at

HANWELL.

From this station the line passes in a gentle curve over the Wharncliffe Viaduct, a massive and elegant structure, which commands extensive views on both sides. The Uxbridge road is seen winding beneath, and afar off may be discerned, outlined in the blue distance, the undulating range of Surrey hills, with the rich, leafy, loftiness of Richmond Hill and Park occasionally intervening. In the foreground will be noticed Osterley Park, the seat of the Earl of Jersey; and the most interesting object in the landscape is Hanwell Asylum, generously devoted to the reception of the indigent insane.

SOUTHALL.

At this station a short branch, 3¾ miles, turns off to the left, by which a connection with the South Western is formed at

Crossing the Paddington and Grand Junction Canal, we pass alternately through excavation and embankment on to

WEST DRAYTON.

Here, in the early mornings of summer and golden evenings of autumn, descends many a brother of the rod and line, who, in the confluence of the Colne and Crane, finds a prolific source of pleasure from his favourite pastime.

We now cross the western boundary of Middlesex, and then pass over a small corner of Buckinghamshire, between West Drayton and Maidenhead, into the county of Berks.

UXBRIDGE (Branch).

The inhabitants are principally engaged in the corn trade, some in agricultural tool making, and others in making windows, chairs, bricks, &c. Is interesting historically as the place where King Charles I. tried to negotiate with Parliament in 1645. It was also occupied by Oliver Cromwell, in 1647—the Crown Inn replacing the old one where he held his head quarters.

In the vicinity are Swakeley’s (1½ mile), and a short walk beyond is Harefield, frequently visited by Milton; and crossing the Colne to Chalfont St. Giles, may be seen the house where the blind bard wrote his “Paradise Regained,”—returning by Denham, so well described by Davy, in his “Salmonia.”

Soon after leaving West Drayton we cross the river Colne and its branches, with Hunt’s Moor Park, and the beautifully sequestered village of Iver (which, alike to artist or antiquary, will be found replete with objects of interest and attraction), on the right, and enter

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE,

LANGLEY.

To the right, at a short distance, is Langley Park. A few minutes more brings us to

SLOUGH.

After the bustle incident to the arrival of fresh passengers, and the departure of others, has in some degree subsided, it will be found that the arrangements for the comfort and convenience of those alighting at this station are equal, if not superior, to those of any other line.

A magnificent hotel, for aristocratic visitors, here so frequently found, is within a few minutes’ walk, and numerous taverns, less ornamental, and, consequently, less expensive, are in the immediate neighbourhood.

Slough is now chiefly noticeable as the station or medium of communication, by the branch railway, to Eton and Windsor. It is two and a half miles in length, and passes Eton College, near the Thames.

WINDSOR BRANCH.

Slough to Windsor.

ETON.

ETON is celebrated for its college, founded in 1440, by Henry VI., to which resort annually about 850 students, chiefly the sons of noble and opulent families. The triennial celebration of Eton Montem on Salt Hill, but now discontinued, the “salt,” or money, given to the captain of the school, for his support at the University, frequently realising nearly a thousand pounds. Passing over a neat bridge, which connects Eton with Windsor, the visitor will enter the town, associated with historical and literary reminiscences of the highest interest. We give a description of Windsor Castle in Section I ., page 68 .

The scenery around Windsor is remarkable for its sylvan beauty; and the weary citizen, who desires to enjoy a summer holiday, cannot do better than procure an admission ticket to Windsor Castle from the printsellers, Messrs. Colnaghi, of Pall Mall, and then make his way to the Great Western Railway, in time for an early train. Within the next three hours he may see all the regal splendours of the palatial halls of Windsor; and then, having refreshed the inward man at any of the “hostelries” which abound in that town, he may stroll forth into the country, and contrast the quiet and enduring charms of nature with the more glittering productions of art, with which wealth and power surround themselves. He may walk in the shades of the forest, sung by Pope; he may saunter over Datchet Mead, immortalised by Shakspeare, in his story of Jack Falstaff and the buck-basket; or he may prolong his stroll to the quiet village of Horton, where Milton lived, and sang its rural charms in the immortal rhymes of “L’Allegro” and “II Penseroso.”

Great Western Main Line continued.

Slough to Maidenhead.

Between the lofty and luxuriant foliage of Stoke Park, about two miles to the right of Slough, may be descried, modestly peering through the surrounding trees, the spire of Stoke Pogis Church, the scene of Gray’s “Elegy.” The following inscription to his memory is on the east wall of the church:—”Opposite to this stone, in the same tomb upon which he has so feelingly recorded his grief at the loss of a beloved parent, lie deposited the remains of Thomas Gray, the author of the ‘Elegy written in a Country Churchyard.’ &c., &c., &c. He was buried August 6th, 1771.” The church itself has no internal beauty, being over-crowded with pews; but the churchyard is one of the prettiest in England. The cloister is worth a visit. As the train proceeds, the broad and verdant fields spread out on each side of us in all the pride of luxuriant vegetation.

Burnham Village is close by, situate in the midst of picturesque woodland scenery, popularised by the adventures of Albert Smith’s Mr. Ledbury.

MAIDENHEAD.

WYCOMBE AND THAME BRANCH.

Maidenhead to Wycombe and Thame.

From Maidenhead we pass TAPLOW, COOKHAM, MARLOW ROAD, WOBURN GREEN, and LOUDWATER, stations of no great importance, and arrive at

HIGH WYCOMBE.

WYCOMBE is a borough in Buckinghamshire on the Wyck. In the vicinity are many corn and paper mills.

The line continues hence through WEST WYCOMBE, the old market town of PRINCES RISBOROUGH, then takes a westerly curve through BLEDLOW, and, immediately leaving the county of Bucks, enters that of Oxford, and terminates at

THAME, a small market town, consisting of one long street. The church is very old, and built in the form of a cross, has a fine tower, and its windows of stained glass. The railway will ultimately run through to Oxford.

BERKSHIRE.

THIS county is bounded by the counties of Oxford and Buckingham on the north, on the east by Surrey, on the south by Hampshire, and on the west by Wiltshire. A range of chalk hills, entering this county from Oxfordshire, crosses it in a westerly direction, and forms the southern boundary of the Vale of the White Horse. Independent of this range of hills, the county is characterised by gentle eminences and vallies, having much fertile land, and abounding with picturesque and beautiful scenery. Reading is the county town of Berkshire, and Windsor Castle its greatest ornament.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Maidenhead to Reading.

Upon leaving Maidenhead the railway soon spans, by a bridge of ten arches, the river Thames, which here glides through a flat, but most charming country. Having crossed the Windsor road, and diverged gradually to the southward we suddenly dip into an excavation of considerable depth; the characteristic chalky sides of which are replete with geological interest. This cutting, which continues for upwards of five miles, completely shuts out the surrounding country; but coming suddenly upon the Ruscombe embankment, we are amply repaid by a magnificent expanse of landscape. Hill and dale, dotted with elegant villas and noble mansions, woodland and water scenery, together with wide far-stretching meadow and corn-land, follow each other in varied succession to the very verge of the horizon. We have scarcely had time, however, to feast our vision with this delightful prospect, before we are again buried in a cutting, though of shorter duration, and through this we reach the station at

TWYFORD (Junction).

In the neighbourhood are Stanlake (1 mile). Shottesbrooke Church (2½ miles), a beautiful miniature cross, with a tall tower and spire, formerly attached to an ancient college here. A short line hence branches off to Henley-upon-Thames, passing by Wargrave.

HENLEY BRANCH.

HENLEY.

It is delightfully situated on a sloping bank of the Thames, (over which there is a handsome stone bridge of five arches, by Sir R. Taylor, connecting the counties of Oxford and Berks) amid extensive beech woods. The church has a fine tower, and some interesting decorated work. There is a handsome town hall, on pillars, forming a market piazza. The musical divine, Dean Aldrich, was rector here, and bequeathed his library for the use of the inhabitants paying church rates. Close by are Park Place, Bolney Court, Harpsden Court, and Culham Court (two miles), near which are the remains of Medmenham Abbey, surrounded by sheltering groves, a fit place for the abode of sleek friars, who might have plenty of fish for Lenten days. This place, however, was made famous in the last century for the whim of Lord le Despenser, who fitted the old ruin up after its original style, and created much scandal in mocking religion, and in the repetitions of debaucheries to which that of the monks of old were pious orgies.

The Chiltern Hills behind rise to 820 feet at Nettlebed, and 760 at Nuffield; they give name to a nominal office in the Chancellor of the Exchequer’s gift, by which a member of parliament is enabled in a formal manner to vacate his seat.

Great Western Main Line continued.

Within a few minutes after quitting the station, we emerge from the excavation, and cross, on an embankment, the river Loddon. From this we enter into another cutting of great depth conducting us to an embankment which affords a pleasing view of the county bordering on the woody lands of Oxfordshire. Crossing, on a level embankment, the river Kennet, we soon after reach the station at

READING.

READING is situated on two small eminences, whose gentle declivities fall into a pleasant vale, through which the branches of the Kennet flow till they unite with the Thames at the extremity of the town. The surrounding country is agreeably diversified with an intermixture of hill and dale, wood and water, enlivened with a number of elegant seats. In the Forbury some pleasure grounds have been laid out: a band usually plays there in the summer months. The old abbey ruins have been excavated, and are open to the public. The abbey gateway has also been restored by G. G. Scott, Esq., at a cost of £500. Next to it has been built a ponderous County Court at a great expense.

This old town is in a fertile and well-watered part of Berkshire, at the junction of the Thames and Kennet. It returns two members to parliament, and has a population of 25,045. The manor belongs to the corporation. A large and important mitred abbey, founded by Henry I. in 1125, to atone for putting out his brother Robert Curthose’s eyes frequently attracted the court here down to 1540, when that vigorous defender of the faith, Henry VIII., hung the last abbot for refusing to account for his stewardship. Henry I. was buried in it. A Norman gate and part of the outer flint walls (8 feet thick) are left. The latter took in a circuit of half a mile. Reading was inhabited by the Saxons many years before the invasion of the Danes; and it appears that it had two castles, one of which probably stood on the spot where the abbey was founded. In 1263 Henry III. held a parliament here, and another was adjourned hither in 1453. Some old gable buildings and ancient looking streets are yet seen at Reading; but a handsome new town has sprung up round Eldon Road and Square, Queen’s Road, &c., on the south-east side of the Kennet. St. Lawrence’s church, near the Forbury, has a chequered flint tower, and remnants of antiquity, with a monument to Dr. Valpy. St. Mary’s, in St. Mary’s Butts, was first built in the 12th century, but rebuilt in 1550 with materials from the abbey. Bishop Lloyd was vicar here; as was also the present Dean Millman. There was a nunnery attached to it. St. Giles’s, in Bridge Street, has been lately restored. It suffered in the long siege of 1642, when Colonel Ashton held the town against Essex. A fine new church has been built at a cost of £7,000, at Whitley, from the designs of Mr. Woodgeare; it is at present the finest church in the town. St. James’s (Roman Catholic) is one of Pugin’s first attempts, and is of the Norman style. It lies at the rear of the Forbury Gardens, and is built on part of the site occupied by the old abbey.

The Town Hall was built 1785, and contains various portraits, among which are those of Queen Elizabeth, Sir T. White, a native, and the founder of St. John’s College, Oxford, and that strange compound of intellectual vigour, superstition, and bigoted meanness, Archbishop Laud, born at Reading, 1573. He, in common with Merrick, the poet, Addington, the premier, and Lord Chancellor Phipps, all Reading men, was educated in the Grammar School, formerly held beneath the Town Hall, originally founded 1486. Laud bequeathed property worth about £500 a year to his native town. Henry VII’s charter, with his illuminated portrait, is kept in the Town Hall. A portrait of the late Mr. Justice Talfourd has recently been presented by his widow.

A new cattle market has been built close to the railway station. Great quantities of malt, flour, and timber are sent hence to London. There are a large iron foundry at Katesgrove, the manufactory for Huntley and Palmer’s biscuits, and a model gaol; also several good schools. The old Abbey of the Grey Friars, in Friar Street, formerly used as a borough lock-up, is fast being converted from a den of thieves into a noble church, from designs by Messrs. Poulton and Woodman.

BASINGSTOKE BRANCH.

Reading to Basingstoke.

This line passes through a very pretty level country, surrounded by numerous parks, and handsome seats and mansions.

BASINGSTOKE,

(For further particulars see Section I ., page 76 ) is delightfully situated in a well wooded part of Hampshire, and derives considerable advantage from the junction of several roads which meet together at this town. It has a handsome market-house and sessions court. On an eminence at the northern extremity of the town are the ruins of an elegant chapel, which possessed great architectural beauty, but which has been suffered to fall into ruins.

HUNGERFORD BRANCH, AND BERKS AND HANTS.

Reading to Hungerford and Devizes.

ALDERMASTON.

WOOLHAMPTON.

NEWBURY.

This town is situated in a fertile plain in the county of Berks, watered by the Kennet, which crosses the town near the centre. The principal streets in it are disposed nearly in the shape of the Roman Y, the angles branching off from the market place, and the foot of the latter being formed by the village of Speenhamland; they are spacious and well paved. Newbury was a new town founded upon the decay of Spinœ, a Roman station in the neighbourhood. The church is a plain Gothic stone edifice, which, with the tower, was built at the expense of John Winchcombe, generally called “Jack of Newbury.” This town was formerly celebrated for its extensive manufactories of woollen cloth, especially when Jack of Newbury (not a fish, as the sign might lead one to think) led his company of stout tailors—all proper men—to the famous battle of Flodden Field; but at present scarcely anything but serge is made. It has a considerable traffic in malt by the Kennet and Avon Canal.

HUNGERFORD.

MARKET DAY. —Wednesday. FAIRS. —Last Wednesday in April and Sept., and first Wednesday in Oct.

HUNGERFORD is a market town, which stands partly in the county of Berks, and partly in that of Wilts. The Kennet flows past this town, which opens a communication with the river Thames on the east, and the Avon and Bristol Channel on the west. The town principally consists of one long main street, with a few smaller ones branching from it. In the centre stands the market house, over which there is a large room for public business, and here is still preserved the Hungerford Horn, presented to the corporate body by John of Gaunt. It is made of brass, and is blown every Horn Tuesday to assemble the inhabitants for the election of the town constable.

Hence a visit may be paid to Marlborough, on the Wiltshire Downs, where a Collegiate School is planted; and near which (at Tisbury), Jay, of Bath, was born, 1769. He was placed in the academy of the excellent Cornelius Winter (whom Bishop Jebb styles a “celestial creature”) at Marlboro’, and went out before he was sixteen to preach to the poor despised rustics. “Our prudent tutor taught us not to rail or abuse, but simply to preach the gospel, and to avoid the offence of folly, when we could not avoid that of the cross.” Three years after he commenced his long career at Bath. From Hungerford you may follow the Berkshire Downs round to Reading, past Lambourn, Ashdown (where Alfred beat the Danes), Uffington Castle, Wayland Smith’s Stone, (which Scott introduces in Kenilworth), the White Horse Hill (893 feet high, with the figure of a galloping horse, 370 feet long, cut in the chalk). Wantage, along Ickleton Street (a Roman way on the ridge) to East Ilsley (noted for its great sheep fairs), and so to Reading, a strip of about 40 or 45 miles, never to be forgotten by a light-heeled pedestrian.

The Berks and Hants, a railway 24¼ miles long, begins here and runs through a nearly level country. Although the title would seem to imply, it forms no connection between the two counties named, taking as it does a westerly direction from the borders of Berks through the very heart of the county of Wilts.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Reading to Didcot.

Passing slowly from the station at a pace that affords us a pleasing bird’s eye view of the town, we are carried forward on the same level embankment, and crossing the valley of the Thames soon reach the Roebuck excavation. An embankment, followed by a brief though deep cutting, through the grounds of Purley Park, gives us some charming prospects on the Oxfordshire side, with a mass of woodland scenery scattered over the undulating ground, and cresting even the high summits of the Mapledurham hills beyond.

PANGBOURNE.

This place is a very ancient one. Roman remains have been discovered. It is connected with Whitchurch on the opposite side of the Thames by a wooden bridge, toll one halfpenny.

Soon after leaving the station the railway takes a north-westerly direction, and at the village of Basildon, crossing a viaduct over the Thames, leaves behind it the county of Berks, and enters that of Oxford. Pursuing this northerly direction for a short distance, on the borders of the two counties, we pass a deep cutting, whence, crossing on an embankment the river Thames for the last time, we reach the station of

GORING. –Here are still visible the remains of a Nunnery for Augustines, founded in the reign of Henry II.

WALLINGFORD.

WALLINGFORD, to which the station affords easy access, is an ancient and somewhat picturesque town, agreeably situated on the banks of the venerable Thames, and includes among its “lions” the remains of a formidable castle. The churches of St. Leonard’s and St. Mary are of great antiquity. St. Peter’s, a modern edifice, has a tower of very peculiar construction. A massive stone bridge, with nineteen arches, spans the river. It has a considerable trade in corn and malt.

On leaving the station the railway returns into the county of Berks, and the country assumes a more agricultural and less romantic aspect than that which we had previously traversed. Alternately dipping into excavation, and flitting over embankment, we are carried across Hagbourne Marsh, and passing over the Wantage and Wallingford road, we arrive at

DIDCOT (Junction).

OXFORD BRANCH.—Didcot to Oxford.

After passing a small and uninteresting village called Appleford, we come to a lofty embankment, from which some expansive and diversified views of the surrounding country are obtained. One mile further is the station of

CULHAM (Junction)

ABINGDON (Branch).

FAIRS. —First Monday in Lent, May 6th, June 20th, August 5th, September 19th, Monday before Old Michaelmas Day, Monday after October 12th, and December 11th, for cattle and horses.

A small parliamentary town in Berks, with about 5,680 inhabitants, returning one member. It is situated at the junction of the Wiltshire and Berkshire canal on the Thames, and the mouth of the river Ock, occupying a very favourable situation on the borders of Berkshire. The town consists of several wide streets, converging in a spacious area, where the markets are held every Monday and Friday. It takes its present name from a rich mitred abbey which was founded by the Saxon kings. Before that, it was called Seukestram or Shovesham. Some traces of the abbey are seen at a brewery. Leland, who travelled the country as historiographer to Henry VIII., states that it was then a magnificent building. Geoffrey, of Monmouth, died abbot here, 1417. Henry I., called Beauclerc, for his learning, was sent to this abbey by his father the Conqueror, to be educated.

The few buildings worth notice are St. Nicholas’s old church, a market house and county hall, of ashlar stone, the county bridewell, a grammar school founded in the 16th century, and Christ’s hospital, an old cloistered building of the same date, founded by Sir John Mason, a native, and statesman of James I.’s age. Malting and sack-making are the chief employments. In Leland’s time it “stondeth by clothing,” like many other agricultural towns, from which this important branch of manufacture has fled to the north, where machinery, coal, and other conveniences are more abundant.

OXFORDSHIRE.

THIS rich midland county takes its name from the city of Oxford, and contains 481,280 acres, divided into 14 hundreds, and 219 parishes, and possesses one city, and twelve market towns. It is an inland county, bounded on the east by Buckinghamshire, on the west by Gloucestershire. On the south-south-west and south-east its limits unite with those of Berkshire. The south-east part is hilly and woody, having a continuation of the Chiltern hills running through it; the north-west is also elevated and stony; and the middle is, in general, a rich country, watered by numerous streams, running from north to south, and terminating in the Thames. Of these the most considerable are, the Windrush, Evenlode, Cherwell, and Thame. The produce of this county is chiefly like that of most midland farming counties: much butter and cheese are made, and numerous calves are reared and fed for the London markets.

About three miles beyond Culham, we come in sight of Bagley Wood, seen to the left of the line, and soon after the little church of Sandford is observed peering through the trees to the right, and the Pauper Lunatic Asylum, a considerable pile of buildings, at Littlemore. A brief view of hills, a rapid glimpse of vallies, veined with pleasant streams, and studded with picturesque masses of woodland, a prolonged whistle from the engine, and a sudden whirl under a lofty, elegant portico, and we are at

OXFORD,

FAIRS. —May 2nd, Monday after St. Giles, Sept. 1st, and Thursday before New Michaelmas.

OXFORD is the capital of the rich midland county of the same name, and one of the most ancient cities of England. It has for ages been celebrated for its university, which, in extent, number of its colleges, wealth of endowments, and architectural beauty, stands unrivalled by any similar institution in Europe; in fact, the period of its existence as a seminary for learning is supposed to date anterior to the time of Alfred. It is situated on a gentle eminence in a rich valley between the rivers Cherwell and Isis, and is surrounded by highly cultivated scenery—the prospect being bounded by an amphitheatre of hills. From the neighbouring heights the city presents a very imposing appearance, from the number and variety of its spires, domes, and public edifices; while these structures, from their magnitude and splendid architecture, give it on a near approach an air of great magnificence. The rivers are crossed by bridges. This city was distinguished by its attachment to the unfortunate Charles I., who here held his court during the whole civil war.

The High street extends east and west, under different names, the whole length of the city. From Carfax Church it is crossed, at right angles, by St. Giles, the other principal street; and from these two branch off nearly every other street in the city. The High street of Oxford is justly considered the finest in England, from its length and breadth, the number and elegance of its public buildings, and its remarkable curvature, which, from continually presenting new combinations of magnificent objects to the eye, produces an uncommonly striking effect. There are also several other handsome streets of recent creation. Oxford has long been famous for good sausages and brawn. The “Crown” is a small inn, entered from the Corn Market by a gateway. This inn was kept by the mother of Davenant, and was the resort of Shakspeare in his journies from London to Stratford-on-Avon.

“Ye fretted pinnacles, ye fanes sublime,

Ye towers that wear the mossy vest of time;

Ye massy piles of old muniflcence,

At once the pride of learning and defence;

Ye cloisters pale, that, lengthening to the sight,

To contemplation, step by step, invite;

* * * *

Ye temples dim, where pious duty pays

Her holy hymns of everlasting praise—

* * * *

Hail! Oxford, hail!”

—T. Warton’s Triumph of Isis.

This venerable seat of learning has an advantage over Cambridge, in being placed among more attractive scenery, and combining in itself a greater variety of splendid architecture. It stands at the junction of the Cherwell and Thames, 63 miles from London by the Great Western railway, which is continued hence, on the broad or mixed gauge, to Banbury, Birmingham, Worcester, &c. The railway and the meadows round the city were all under water in the floods of 1853. Population, 27,850, who return two members to Parliament, while the University is represented by two more.

Distant prospects of the city may be obtained from the Shotover and Hinksey hills. It is called Oxeneford in Domesday Book, or the ford of oxen; and this homely interpretation is duly supported by the city arms. King Alfred, it is asserted, founded the University; but this appears to be doubtful, as his biographer, Asser, mentions nothing of it. Its pre-eminence is, however, admitted as a settled point by legal authorities. There was a nunnery (St. Frideswide’s) here from the year 730; and the monks attached to it, or to the monasteries founded after the Conquest, had the training of Henry I., who here acquired his surname of Beauclerc, from his literary parts.

Two main streets, each about two-fifths of a mile long, cross at a market place, called Carfax, a corruption of quatre vōces or four ways, where was a conduit, now at Nuneham Courtney, and contain in or near them some of the best buildings. High Street runs east and west, and St. Giles’ Street north and south. At one end (the east) of the former thoroughfare is Magdalene Bridge, by which the city should be approached, as from that spot a view may be obtained which is stated to exceed that of most other towns, by experienced travellers; it is curved, and the size, grandeur, and variety of the buildings, as you turn through it, offer a most striking display. Another fine prospect may be had of the broad part of St. Giles’ Street, north of Carfax.

City Buildings. —The best of these are—the Town Hall (built 1752), 135 feet long. The Council Chamber contains portraits of James II., the Duke of Marlborough, and others; the Music Room, built 1748, by an amateur architect, Dr. Camplin; the Infirmary, founded by Dr. Radcliffc; and the County Gaol, on the west side of the town. The last occupies the site of a castle founded after the Conquest, by Robert d’Oyley, and razed by Parliament, in the civil war, with the exception of the tower of St. George. The New Museum in the Parks, though not pleasing externally, is one of the finest buildings of the kind in England. It was built from designs by Messrs. Dean, at the expense of the University, at a cost of £70,000. A new town has sprung up beyond the Parks.

Churches. —St. Aldates, or Old’s, as it is called, is an old edifice near Christ Church, in the south quarter of Oxford. St. Cross or Holywell, an ancient Gothic church, near the Cherwell; All Saints, in the middle of High Street, in the classic style, built by Dean Aldrich. St. Giles’, at the top of that street, is an early Gothic edifice; St. Michael’s, near the bottom, and St. Martin’s, at the bottom, near Carfax, are two others. That of St. Mary Magdalene is also a very ancient foundation, to which a new aisle was added in 1841, in honour of the martyrs Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, who were burnt (the last two in 1535, and Cranmer the year following) in Canditch, near Baliol College. Close to this church is the beautiful Martyrs’ Cross, a three-storied Gothic pile, 73 feet high, by Scott. Statues of these celebrated Protestant confessors, by Weekes, are placed in the niches, and the whole lodged here in 1841, exactly three centuries after the publication of Cranmer’s Bible. The famous Bocardo prison, in which they were confined, was in a gate of the old wall at the top of St. Giles’ Street. St. Mary’s, in High Street, is marked by a fine Gothic spire, 180 feet high; it is the University Church. St. Peter’s, near Magdalene Bridge, is a restored Norman and pointed edifice. The Cathedral, part of Christ Church College, in Aldates Street. It was originally the Church of St. Frideswide’s Priory, and was made the seat of a bishop in 1542 by Henry VIII. The oldest portion is the Norman door; the fine early Gothic cloisters are 54 feet long—spire 144 feet high. Some quaint effigies are seen; one of Schmidt’s old organs; a quaint and a curious wooden shrine of the saint. St. George’s, in George Street, St. Phillip’s and St. James’, in Park Town, a continuation of St. Giles’ Street.

University Buildings. —There are nineteen colleges and five halls in Oxford, having about 6,000 members, and a total revenue of nearly £480,000.

ALL SOUL’S COLLEGE, in High Street, was founded 1437, by Archbishop Chichley; a Gothic front, 194 feet long, and two courts, with a chapel and library behind. A leather screen in the chapel; the library was built by the Codrington family. Archbishop Sheldon, Jeremy Taylor, Herrick the poet, and Blackstone the lawyer, were of this college.

BALIOL COLLEGE, in Broad Street, was founded in 1282, by the Baliol family; old court and new chapel. Wickliffe was master of this college before he became professor of divinity, and John Evelyn was a member. An iron cross marks the spot where Ridley, Latimer, and Cranmer were burnt at the stake. A new wing of College buildings and a fantastic Chapel have of late years been built, from designs by Mr. Salvin.

BRAZENOSE COLLEGE, is on the site of Little University Hall, and had an immense brass knocker, or “nose,” on its Tudor gate; founded 1509. John Fox, the martyrologist, Spelman, and several other antiquaries, were among its members. The Chapel has been restored by Mr. Buckler, of Oxford.

CORPUS CHRISTI, in Merton Lane, founded 1527, by Bishop Fox, who projected the union of the Roses. His crozier, portrait, and statue are in the library. In the president’s gallery are portraits of the famous seven bishops, Kew, Trelawney, &c., Hooker and Bishop Jewel were members.

CHRIST CHURCH, which includes the cathedral, in Aldates Street. It was founded 1525 by Wolsey, who built the largest of its three courts, about 260 feet square. In the tower over the front (380 feet long) is the “Mighty Tom,” which weighs 12,000lbs. Every night at ten minutes past nine it strikes 101 strokes, that is as many as there are students on the foundation. Wolsey’s Hall is full of portraits, and the library, of busts, &c.; while, for members it reckons Sir T. More, Bishop Atterbury, Dr. South, Lord Mansfield, Robert Boyle, Sir P. Sidney, Locke, Camden, Ben Jouson, Canning, Peel, Gladstone.

EXETER COLLEGE, founded 1315, by the bishops of Exeter; the front, which has been modernized, is 220 feet long, many of the members are from the diocese of Exeter. One was Noy, who proposed the levy of ship-money to Charles I. A fine new chapel, in imitation of the Sainte Chapelle, Paris, has been recently built, from designs by Mr. Scott.

JESUS COLLEGE is chiefly used by the countrymen of the founder, Hugh Price, a Welshman; two courts. Portraits of Charles I. (by Vandyke) and Elizabeth in the hall. Archbishop Usher and Beau Nash were members. Recently fronted from designs by Messrs. Buckler.

LINCOLN COLLEGE, founded 1427, by the bishops of that diocese; two small courts. Archbishop Potter and John Wesley were members.

MAGDALENE, or as it is generally called Maudlin COLLEGE, is in High Street, and was founded 1448, by William of Waynflete. Two old courts and a third modern one, behind a front, 1,300 feet long; in which are an old and a new gate, and a beautiful pinnacled tower of the 15th century, 150 feet high. The president entertains the Sovereign at public visits. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were here in 1841. In 1687, James II. made his celebrated attempt to force the Romish divine, Farmer, into the presidency instead of Hough. The choir (men and boys) sing a Latin hymn on the top of the tower every May Day morning at five o’clock. Dr. Renth, the late president, died in his 99th year, in 1856. Addison’s walk is here, in the large and beautiful grounds, by the Cherwell. Among other members were Wolsey, Latimer, John Hampden, Hammond, Collins, the poet, and Gibbon. The new Grammar School (built from designs by Messrs. Buckler) contains a magnificent carved oak roof. Some handsome stained glass has lately been placed in the College Chapel. The choral services are celebrated.

MERTON COLLEGE, in John Street, is the oldest, being founded in 1264, by Walter de Merton (in Surrey). Three courts; the most ancient part is Bishop Rede’s library, built 1376. The chapel, the parish church of St. John the Baptist, is nearly as old; and contains a new painted ceiling and some good brasses. The choral services (for which Oxford is famed) are more effective here than in any other Collegiate Chapel. William of Waynflete, Bishop Hooper, and Massinger, Sir R. Steele, and Duns Scotus, were members, as well as Bodley, founder of the Library. St. Alban’s Hall adjoins this college. Merton Grove is worth a visit.

NEW COLLEGE, is approached from Broad Street, and was founded by William of Wykeham, in 1379, for draughting his scholars from Winchester; good quadrangle, cloisters, and Gothic chapel, in which the founder’s pastoral staff is kept. Good gardens, City Wall. Choral service celebrated.

Reynolds painted the window, or rather gave the design for it; which Warton refers to in a complimentary couplet. Philpot the martyr, Bishop Ker, Sir H. Wotton, &c., were of this college.

ORIEL COLLEGE is in Merton Lane, founded in 1324, by Edward II., whose golden cup is here. Raleigh, Sandys, Butler, poets, Dr. Arnold, and Archbishop Whateley, were members of this college. Dr. Newman, Keble (author of the Christian Year ), Charles Marriott, and other celebrated modern theologians, belonged to this college. St. Mary’s Hall, founded in 1383, is attached.

PEMBROKE COLLEGE, in Aldates Street, is a modern foundation, not older than 1724. It contains a quadrangle, oriel gate, and new hall, built 1849, in the Gothic style. Carew, the poet, John Pym, the orator of the Long Parliament, Archbishop Newcomb, Dr. Johnson, Blackstone the lawyer, and Whitfield, were members.

QUEEN’S COLLEGE is in High Street, founded in 1340, in honour of Edward III.’s Queen, Philippa; two courts. Archbishop Potter, Henry V., Cardinal Beaufort, Wycherley, the poet, Bernard Gilpin, the “apostle of the north,” and Jeremy Bentham, were members. Edmund Hall formerly belonged to Osney priory.

ST. JOHN’S COLLEGE, in St. Giles’ Street, was founded 1555, by Lord Mayor White, and receives many scholars from Merchant Tailors’ School. The chapel was part of a Cistercian college, founded by Archbishop Chichley; Laud’s MSS. in the library. Fine gardens. Archbishop Laud, and Bishop Juxon, were of this college. It contains a pastoral staff, and has good choral services.

TRINITY COLLEGE, in Broad Street, founded 1555, by Sir T. Pope, a native of Deddington; two courts, one by Wren. In the chapel, very fine carvings, by Gibbons, and a picture of the Resurrection (after West) in needlework, portraits of Sir T. Pope and T. Warton, the poet, in the hall, where the fellows dine

and Warton’s Progress of Discontent. Archbishop Sheldon, Chillingworth, Selden, Lord Somers, Lord Chatham, Warton, and others, were members of Trinity. Chillingworth was born at Oxford. Very fine gardens.

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, in High Street. It was founded as far back as 1280, by William of Durham (though by some attributed to King Alfred); front 260 feet long, with two gates, carvings by Gibbons in the chapel. Of this college Archbishop Abbot, Bishop Ridley, Dr. Radcliffe, and Sir W. Jones, were members.

WADHAM was founded in 1613, by Nicholas Wadham; court, Gothic chapel, timbered hall. Blake, Bishop Wilkins, Dr. Kennicott, Sir C. Wren, and Dr. Bentley were members. Bishop Wilkins was Warden when the Royal Society was founded—the first meeting was held at his house. Fine gardens.

WORCESTER COLLEGE, in Beaumont-street, founded in 1714, on the site of Gloucester Hall.

What are called the University Buildings, as distinct from the different colleges, are those grouped together in Broad Street, in a handsome square, round the Radcliffe Library. Here are the schools (where lectures on divinity, medicine, &c., are read), partly in the Gothic style. The Bodleian Library, founded in 1602, by Sir T. Bodley, contains nearly a quarter of a million of books, old, new, and rare MSS. Over this is the Picture Gallery, in which are portraits, busts, the Arundel marbles, specimens of natural history, &c. Convocation Room, and the Theatre, for public meetings, built by Archbishop Sheldon in 1669, from Wren’s designs, though only 80 feet by 70, will hold 4,000 persons. The Clarendon Printing Office was built by Vanburgh. A new printing office is behind it, near the observatory, a large quadrangular pile, 250 feet by 290, built 1829. The Radcliffe Library —

is a handsome building of 16 sides, 100 feet diameter, built 1749, by Gibbs, at the cost of Radcliffe, the physician: busts, marbles, books, and drawings are here. Its dome, thus alluded to by Warton, is one of the most conspicuous objects in the views of Oxford. In the Ashmolean Museum, which is nothing better than a large curiosity shop, are the head and feet of the famous Dodo, whose portrait is in the British Museum. The rest of him was destroyed as rubbish, by order, in 1755. One of the most complete accounts of this solitary specimen of a race which has become extinct in the present age of man, may be found under “Dodo,” in the Penny Cyclopœdia.

In St. Giles’ Street stands the Taylor Institute, a handsome modern building, in the Italian style, built by Cockerell. The centre is 150 feet long, and the wings 70. It is designed to be a complete gallery of art and science. It is also a college for modern languages. Various drawings, paintings, busts, &c., are collected here. The Botanic Garden is fronted by one of Inigo Jones’s gates.

Beaumont Street, near the castle, is so called after a palace built here by Henry I. Here Henry II. lived, and his two sons, Richard of the Lion’s Heart, and John Lackland, were born. Another native was Anthony à Wood, the antiquarian, and the well known author of the History of Oxford, and of its eminent members.

North of the town, a little up the Thames, is Osrey Mill, on the site of an abbey formerly of great note. Not far from this stood Godstow nunnery, where Rosamond Clifford was wooed by Henry II. Fair Rosamond was a nun here, and was buried under the chapter house; her bones were scattered at the Reformation. The well known story of the bower in which she was concealed by Henry from his jealous queen, Eleanor, and the dagger and the cup of poison, is denied by critical historians.

A short line of 11¾ miles turns off to the left, passing the stations of YARNTON, EYNSHAM, and SOUTH LEIGH, to the town of WITNEY, celebrated for its manufacture of blankets.

OBJECTS OF NOTICE NEAR OXFORD .

Blenheim, the Duke of Marlborough’s seat, is the great attraction. It was part of the Manor of Woodstock, and was given to the great Marlborough, by Queen Anne, to commemorate the important victory over the French, of 2nd August, 1702, on which day, every year, the holder of the seat presents a stand of colours to the queen. The house was built by Vanburgh, and is an excellent example of his heavy, but picturesque style; it is nearly 390 feet long; the way the chimnies are disposed is much admired. The interior is adorned in the style of that day, with rich tapestries, painted ceilings, &c. A piece of ornamental water in the parks, by “Capability” Brown; also a pillar, 130 feet high, celebrating Marlborough’s victories, the inscription being written by Lord Bolingbroke; and Rosamond’s Well, which is all that remains of the White Castle, a bower, &c., the chief scene of Scott’s Woodstock.

Woodstock Park was a favourite seat of King Alfred, and succeeding monarchs. Edward Third’s son, the Black Prince, was born here, in 1330; near the park gate stood a house in which Chaucer the poet resided. Good leather gloves are made at Woodstock. Ensham the seat of Lord Parke, and Cornbury that of Lord F. Churchill, are both near Wychand Forest, a well wooded tract of oak, beech, and other timber, which is to be reclaimed and cultivated. Warton (who is poet of Oxford and the localities around) wrote some of his best lines, “The Hamlet,” here. Some rare fossils are found in the rock below, which is a soft shelly oolite. Stonesfield in particular, on the old Roman way or Wheman Street, has furnished valuable specimens, and a Roman pavement was discovered there in the last century. Witney (10 miles) is still a flourishing seat of the blanket manufacture. Cumnor Place (in Berkshire), which belonged to the abbots of Abingdon, was the scene, according to Scott’s Kenilworth, of poor Amy Robsart’s murder, by Verney, at the command of her husband, the Earl of Leicester. In the church, a marble effigy of Anthony Foster, who was implicated in the tragedy; but he is there described as a gentleman and scholar. The “Black Bear” still figures at the village inn. Nuneham Courtney, on the Thames, is the seat of the Harcourts, at which are to be seen curious county maps, worked in tapestry, and a picture gallery.

Ditchley, Lord Dillon’s seat, was the birthplace of the celebrated Lord Rochester, as notorious for his profligacy as for his sincere repentance. Near this is Kiddington (4 miles), with an old church, of which Warton was rector; it is described in his Ode on the First of April. Renshaw is the old seat of the Dormers. Heythrop, belongs to the Earl of Shrewsbury. Glympton, i. e., the Glyme town, from the river which runs through it, is the seat of E. Way, Esq. At Aynho, the Cartwright’s seat, near Deddington, in Northamptonshire, is a picture gallery. From Shotover Hill (4 miles), 600 feet high, there is a good prospect of Oxford and its spires. Middleton Park, the seat of Earl Jersey, is near an old church. Kirtlington, Sir G. Dashwood, Bart., was an old Saxon village, called Kyntingtun. Bletchington, A. Annesley, Esq. Ambrosden, the seat of Sir G. Turner, Bart., was formerly the vicarage of Bishop Kennet, who published an account of the village in his “Parochial Antiquities.”

Great Western Main Line continued.
Didcot to Swindon Junction.

Leaving Didcot on a rise of seven feet in a mile, we now enter an excavation of about half-a-mile, and emerging thence, bend gradually to the west on an embankment, when again plunging into a short cutting, we are carried past Milton, a small village to the left, and in a few minutes afterwards stop at

STEVENTON.

Here commences the “Vale of the White Horse,” deriving its singular denomination from the gigantic carving of that useful quadruped, on a high chalky hill beyond—but the cuttings that soon after succeed, “not long, but deep.” effectually screen a very pretty country from the eyes of the traveller, save at occasional intervals, when an elevated embankment offers some transient glimpses.

WANTAGE.

MARKET DAY. —Saturday. FAIRS. —First Saturday in March and May, July 18th, and October 17th.

This ancient market town is memorable as the birth-place of our great Alfred in 849, and his jubilee in 1849; and during the time of the Saxons it was a royal residence. The famous Wayland Smith’s Cave, on Childry Downs, is not far from the town. In the romance of “Kenilworth,” Wayland Smith plays a prominent part, and his character—though founded on a slight foundation—has been drawn by the author of Waverley with amazing power and freshness, forming another of those poetical creations which his wizard pen has left to solace sickness, console sorrow, inspire genius, and defy imitation.

FARINGDON ROAD.

FAIRS. —February 13th, Whit Tuesday, Tuesdays before and after Michaelmas, and October 29th.

The town is five miles to the right; its church is a very ancient structure, erected on the hill, and contains within several noble monuments; whilst the exterior displays evidence of the havoc committed upon it during the civil wars, the spire having been destroyed by the artillery of the Parliamentary forces. Edward the Elder, one of the Saxon kings, died in a palace here in 925.

To those who duly estimate the worth of a fine prospect, we recommend a visit up the hill to Farringdon High Trees, which, in its extensive survey, includes the major portion of three counties—Oxfordshire, Wiltshire, and Gloucestershire. By sunrise or sunset, a view from this spot is amongst the finest panoramas from nature’s exhaustless pencil.

Leaving the station, and progressing on an ascent of about seven feet in a mile, we are carried on an embankment past the village of Baulking, about two miles distant from which is Kingston Lisle, with its celebrated “Blowing Stone,” in which there are several apertures, and by blowing into any one of these a sound is produced that can be heard for miles distant. Uffington Castle is close by, and a little further on is seen the celebrated White Horse, which was carved by order of Alfred, in memory of the triumphant victory which, in 873, he gained over the Danes, at Ashbury.

SHRIVENHAM.

On leaving this station we pass through an excavation, and thence on to an embankment, which commands a fine view of Highworth on the right, and Beacon Hill and Liddington Castle on the summit to the left.

WILTSHIRE,

AN inland and fertile county, divided into South and North. The aspect of the former displays considerable beauty, as the principal valleys in this division of Wiltshire lie along the banks of the rivers, the most remarkable of which diverge, like irregular radii, from the country around Salisbury and Wilton; these display rich meadows and corn land, interspersed with towns, private residences, and extensive plantations of wood.

North Wiltshire differs completely from the southern division of the county. Instead of the gentle undulations of the south, it appears a complete level, and is so thickly wooded, that at a short distance it resembles one vast plantation of trees. When examined in detail, however, it is found to contain many fertile and richly cultivated spots. The chief commodities are sheep, wool, wood, and stone, and the principal manufactures are in the different branches of the clothing trade.

SWINDON JUNCTION .

FAIRS. —Monday before April 5th, second Mondays after May 12th and September 11th, second Mondays before October 10th and December 12th.

SWINDON, on the Great Western, like Wolverton and Crewe on the North Western, is one of the extraordinary products of the railway enterprise of the present age. It is a colony of engineers and handicraft men. The company manufacture their own engines at the factory, where cleaning and everything connected with constructive repair is carried on.

The refreshment room at this station is admirably conducted, and abundantly supplied with every article of fare to tempt the best as well as the most delicate appetites, and the prices are moderate, considering the extortions to which travellers are occasionally exposed.

The valley of Stroud through which the railway passes from Swindon to Gloucester, is well known to travellers and tourists as presenting a continuous series of lovely landscapes. The valley is almost in the character of a mountain gorge, with a branching stream in the bottom, which partially furnishes the motive power for the numerous cloth and fulling mills of the district, the quality of the water, too, being peculiarly adapted for dyeing purposes.

CHELTENHAM BRANCH .

Swindon to Cirencester, Stroud, Gloucester, and Cheltenham.

PURTON .

GLOUCESTERSHIRE,

ONE of the western counties, which presents three beautiful varieties of landscape scenery, viz.: the hill, vale, and forest. The hill district, including those of Cotswold and Stroudwater, may be considered as a continuation of the central chain proceeding south from Derbyshire, and passing through this county into Wiltshire, there expanding into the Salisbury downs, and afterwards running in a western direction towards the Land’s End in Cornwall. The downs, which formerly lay open, producing little else than furze, are now converted into arable enclosed fields, and communications have been opened between towns, where formerly the roads were impassable.

That part of the county called the vale district, is bounded on the east by the Cotswold hills, and the river Severn on the west; it is usually subdivided into the vales of Evesham, Gloucester, and Berkeley. The characteristic features of the entire district are nearly the same; though if a difference be admitted, it will probably be in favour of that of Berkeley.

The vale of Evesham follows the Avon eastward to Stratford, and in respect to climate, produce, &c., resembles that of Gloucestershire, which in its outline is somewhat semicircular, the river Severn being the chord, and the surrounding hills the arch; the towns of Gloucester, Tewkesbury, and Cheltenham, forming a triangle within its area.

The vale of Berkeley, called the Lower, is of a more irregular surface than the upper one. The scenery is in general very beautiful. The forest district is separated from the rest of the county by the river Severn; and principally contains the Forest of Dean, which was celebrated for its fine oaks. Lead and iron ores exist in abundance. Coal is also very plentiful.

TETBURY ROAD (Tetbury).

Population of the parish, 3,274; the station itself is near to the little village of Kemble.

CIRENCESTER— (Branch).

FAIRS. —Easter Tuesday, July 18th; Monday before and after Oct. 11th; Nov. 8th.

BANKERS. —County of Glo’ster Banking Co.; Branch of Glo’stershire Banking Co.

CIRENCESTER is one of the greatest marts in England for wool. The magnificence of the church in this place entitles it to rank amongst the first in the kingdom. Here three Roman roads meet, and from the variety of Roman coins, tessellated pavement, and other antiquities found in the neighbour hood, it seems to have covered a much wider area than at present.

Cirencester was formerly fortified, and the ruins of the walls and streets may still be seen in the adjacent meadows.

Cheltenham Branch continued.

BRIMSCOMB.

STROUD.

STROUD is a market town, situated near the confluence of the river Frome and the Slade Water. Woollen cloth forms the staple manufacture of the town and its environs. Returns two members to Parliament.

STONEHOUSE.

At this point the line joins the Bristol and Birmingham rail, which proceeds on the left to Bristol, and on the right to Gloucester and Cheltenham.

GLOUCESTER.

HOTELS. —King’s Head, W. Churchill; first-class Family and Commercial, highly recommended as a most comfortable house, in the centre of the town.

BANKERS. —County of Glo’ster Banking Co.; Glo’stershire Banking Co.; National Provincial Bank of England; Thomas Turner.

A cathedral city, capital of the county, and parliamentary borough (2 members), on the Severn, and the Bristol and Birmingham Railway, 114 miles from London, in a flat spot, which was under water in the floods of 1853. At Kingsholme, to the north, on the site of a Roman station, called Glevum, the later Saxon kings had a seat, which, Canute attempting to take, was defeated, in the battle of Alney Island, close by. Laxington and other pleasant hills overlook the vale of Gloucester, a rich loamy tract of 60,000 acres, where considerable corn, fruit, beans, turnips, and hay are raised, though much of the butter and double Gloucester cheese, for which the county is noted, comes from the Wiltshire meadows. The corn market is held every third Monday, from July to November.

This town is situated on an eminence, in that division of Gloucester called the vale, near the banks of the Severn, and when viewed from that river it presents a very imposing appearance. The city possesses many elegant public buildings, and a magnificent cathedral, which is particularly celebrated for its architectural beauty. The Cathedral is a cross, 426 feet long; the oldest parts are the Norman crypt and nave, built in 1089. The later English choir is the work of Abbot Wigmore (about 1330), and a “whispering”. passage, 75 feet long, near the fine east window, which is 79 feet long by 35 broad, or one of the largest in England. The west front was built in 1437; the tower, which is 225 feet high, was begun a little later, but not finished till 1518; the Lady Chapel, 92 feet long, is the most modern part. There is a very old tomb of Edward II. (who was murdered at Berkeley Castle), also monuments of Robert Curthose the Conquerer’s brother, and Dr. Jenner, the discoverer of vaccination. Some of the Lacy family are buried in the Chapter House. The beautiful cloisters were built between 1351 and 1392. Of the 12 churches, those of St. Catherine and St. Mary de Lode are Norman in part, and St. Nicholas is early English. At St. John’s is a tablet to the Rev. T. Stock, who with Raikes established the “four original Sunday Schools in this parish and St. Catherine’s, in 1780.” From this small beginning sprung that gratuitous system of Christian instruction which has covered the face of England and Wales with schools. Gloucester boasts another evangelist in Whitfield, who was born at the Bell Inn, while Bishop Hooper, whom it enlisted in the noble army of martyrs, was burnt in St. Mary’s Square. Close to the rail and the ship canal basin is the County Gaol (on the castle site), where the separate system was first tried, 1790. Shipping come up to this basin by a cut from the Severn, near Berkeley; there is a good import trade. In this part also are the Spa Gardens and pump room, over a mineral spring of some value. The Shire Hall was built by Smirke; the Infirmary covers a space of 7½ acres. In Commercial Street is a Museum, the gift of the Guises of Elmore Court. Pins are made here.

In the environs are the gate of Lanthoney Abbey, Highnam Court, seat of T. G. Parry, Esq., in the rennaissance style; Churchdown, a solitary hill, having the Cots Wolds to the right, from 800 to 1,100 feet high; Cheltenham and its mineral waters; Hempstead, Hardwicke, Painswick, and other seats; Newent old priory; Flaxley Abbey, seat of Sir M. Boevey, Bart.; the Forest of Dean, an interesting hilly wooded tract, stretching to the Wye, and producing iron, coal, stone, &c.; Ross, and its spire, built by Kyrle, the “man of Ross,” overlooking the Wye, the beautiful scenery of which may be visited from here, as well as the Malvern hills, with the Hydropathic establishments of Drs. Wilson and Gully. Goodrich Court, seat of the Meyricks, near Ross, which has a remarkable collection of armour, &c., and is near a fine old Norman castle of the Pentroches.

CHELTENHAM.

HOTELS. —The Plough, first-class, for families and private gentlemen; the Queen’s, first-class, for families and gentlemen. Commercial houses, the Fleece and the Lamb.

FAIRS. —Second Thursday in April, 2nd Thursday in Sept., Holy Thursday, Dec. 11th and 18th.

BANKERS. —Branch of Glo’stershire Banking Co.; National Provincial Bank of England; County of Glo’ster Bank.

CHELTENHAM takes its name from the river Chelt, and is celebrated for its medicinal waters. It has been for the last sixty years one of the most elegant and fashionable watering places in England. The town is built on a flat marshy soil, on the borders of a rich and fertile valley, and the surrounding Leckhampton hills protect it from the cold winds. The season for drinking the waters is from May to October. The climate in winter is generally mild, though in July and August the heat is felt to be oppressive. Its surface is elevated about 165 feet above Gloucester, and the funnel shape of the valley, with a large river in its centre (the Chelt, which runs through to the Severn), elicits currents of air, which ventilate the atmosphere, and contribute much to the purity and salubrity of the town.

It is a parliamentary borough (one member), situated in a charming spot under the Cotswold hills, in Gloucestershire, 7 miles from Gloucester, on the Bristol and Birmingham Railway. Most of it is modern and well-built. The assembly rooms are in High Street, ¾ mile long. A little on one side of this is Pitville Spa and Pump Room (built in 1824), with its Grecian portico and dome, in the midst of pleasing grounds. On the other, the promenade leads to the Montpellier Spa and Rotunda pump-room, and Lansdowne Crescent. A pump-room, built in 1803, stands at the Old Wells, first used in 1716, and approached by an avenue of elms, an object of deserved attraction, from its extent and symmetry. There is also the Chalybeate Spa. Both contain aperient salts of soda and magnesia, with a little iodine and iron; and are of great benefit in cases of weak stomachs, liver complaints, and plethora. Two are chiefly chalybeate. The parks and gardens about the town have much picturesque beauty, and are open throughout the year for a trifling fee, besides being the scene at intervals of numerous fêtes and floricultural shows.

A Proprietary College, in the Tudor style, was built in 1843, 240 feet long. The parish church of St. Mary is in part as old as the 11th century. Christ church and St. Peter’s, among the modern ones, deserve notice—the latter being in the Norman style, with a round tower, &c.

In 1831, Mr. Gurney tried his locomotive carriages along the high road to Gloucester, running the distance in 55 minutes, several times a day.

In the neighbourhood are many good walks and points of view, viz., Battledown, Leckhampton Court, and Cleck Cloud, 1,134 feet high. Behind Leckhampton are the Seven Springs, one of the principal heads of the river Thames. Southam is the Tudor seat of Lord Ellenborough. Boddington Manor, J. Neale, Esq. Charlton Park, &c., &c.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Swindon to Chippenham.

About a mile to the left is the market town which gives its name to the station, and which is now rapidly rising into importance. The old town is pleasantly situated on the summit of a considerable eminence, commanding extensive views of Berkshire and Gloucestershire.

The line here continues on a rapid descent of about seven feet in a mile, and by embankment crosses several roads, leading from the neighbouring towns and villages. About a mile to the right, is Lydiard, near which can be recognised the lofty trees of the park, the ancient seat of the Bolingbroke family. Sweeping in rather a serpentine course over a richly-cultivated country, we next pass in succession a cluster of small hamlets to our left; and looking forward, scenery of that quiet pastoral description so characteristic of English rural life is continued to the very verge of the horizon.

WOOTTON BASSET.

We now proceed on an embankment, having a rapid descent in our favour of about fifty feet in a mile. This elevation affords a comprehensive view of the adjoining valley of “Bath’s clear Avon,” through which the companionable canal is still seen gleaming amid the line of pollards that fringe its edge. Passing through a short excavation we again emerge on a level, whence to the left can be discerned afar off, the stately structure of Bradenstoke Priory. Thence by alternate cutting and embankment we reach

CHIPPENHAM.

This is a parliamentary borough, on the Great Western Railway, in North Wiltshire, on the river Avon, but not otherwise remarkable, except as being a great seat of the cheese trade. Population, 6,283, who send two members to parliament. A little cloth and silk are made. It has two tanneries, a foundry, four banks, a new Town Hall and Market House, built for £12,000, at the cost of J. Neeld, Esq., M.P., of Grittleton, and a long bridge on 23 arches. The old church large and handsome. In the time of Alfred it was a city of strength, and was taken by the Danes in 880. It is delightfully situated in a valley on the south bank of the river Avon, by which it is almost surrounded.

In the neighbourhood are Lacock Abbey, seat of — Talbot, Esq., the inventor of Photography; Bowood, the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne; Sloperton, formerly the seat of Moore, who died in 1852, and is buried at Bromham, near Spye Park, the Starkies’ seat. At Bremhill, the poet Bowles died, being the vicar, in 1850.

Calne, a parliamentary borough returning one member, has a large old church. It was here that St. Dunstan, then primate, held a synod in 977, to settle a dispute between the clergy and monks, and contrived by making the floor give way, to bring a pretended judgment on his opponents. Corsham House, Lord Methuen, is a Tudor building, with a gallery of Dutch and other masters. Castle Combe, in a sheltered hollow, on a branch of the Avon, is the seat of G. P. Scrope, Esq., who has written the history of this ancient barony.

WILTS, SOMERSET, AND WEYMOUTH.

Chippenham to Frome, Yeovil, Dorchester, and Weymouth.

MELKSHAM.

This village has a population of 4,251; consists of one long street, the buildings of which are mostly of freestone. Celebrated for its mineral springs.

DEVIZES BRANCH.

Melksham to Devizes.

This branch, also an appendage of the Wilts, Somerset, and Weymouth line, turns off about a mile to the south of Melksham. It runs via HOLT JUNCTION and SEEND, to

DEVIZES (a telegraph station).

Is an ancient borough, in the centre of Wiltshire, with a population of 6,638. Its staple trade is woollen. St. John’s Church is somewhat remarkable, from the variety of architectural designs it displays. It returns two members to parliament.

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

TROWBRIDGE.

This town is the largest in the county, with the exception of Salisbury. It has a population of 9,626, and is situated on the river Ware. The church is large and highly decorated. It is one of the largest clothing towns in the west of England. Leland says of it, in his time even, “it flourisheth by drapery.” Crabbe, the poet, was rector here. George Keats, the poet, was a native. Ruins of Farley Castle (3½ miles) are very picturesque. A short branch here turns off to

BRADFORD (Branch),

A town that “stondeth by clooth making,” said Leland, three centuries ago, and the same may be said of it now. The Avon is crossed by two bridges, one a very ancient one, with a chapel over one of the piers. This line continues its course, via FRESHFORD, LIMPLEY STOKE, and BATHAMPTON to

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

From Trowbridge we continue by the Valley of the Avon, with the grounds of Rowed Ashton and Heywood House on the left, and arrive at

WESTBURY.

This is an ancient borough, with a malting and broad cloth trade. Bryan Edwards, the historian, was a native. About two miles north-east is an ancient encampment, on the edge of the chalk downs near Bratton; on the escarpment below it is the figure of a white horse, the origin of which is doubtful and obscure. Four miles beyond is Erle Stoke Park, the seat of Lord Broughton.

SALISBURY BRANCH.

Westbury to Salisbury.

Our first station on this section of the Wilts, Somerset, and Weymouth line, is that at

WARMINSTER.

This is a neat and respectable town, close to the western border of Salisbury Plain, on which, in the neighbourhood, are many remains of the old Britons. There is likewise a huge rampart and ditch called “Old Ditch,” which may be attributed to the Saxons. The church is spacious and handsome. The tower is of the reign of Edward III.

Proceeding on our way with Battlesbury, Middlebury, Scratchbury, Cotley, and Golden Barrow, close by on our left (all ancient encampments), we arrive at

HEYTESBURY.

This town is situated in a pleasant valley on the river Wiley, with a population of 1,103, chiefly employed in the woollen manufacture. Here Queen Maude lived. In the ancient church (rebuilt in 1404) Cunningham, the antiquary, is buried. Close by is Heytesbury House, the seat of Lord Heytesbury. In the vicinity are more remains of our rude forefathers, in the shape of barrows, camps, entrenchments, and other earthworks, evidently occupied by Britons, Romans, Saxons, and Danes in succession. Knock Castle, 3 miles east, a more remarkable one than all.

CODFORD.

In the vicinity are a Druidical circle on Codford Hill, Bayton Hall, A. B. Lambert, Esq.; Bayton Church, built in 1301, with an ancient font, and Stockton House. Codford St. Mary’s Norman church is deserving a visit.

WILEY.

In the neighbourhood are Deptford Inn (½ mile), Fisherton de la Mére (1 mile). Yarmbury Castle (2 miles), a most interesting earthen work or fortification, occupying an elevated situation above the plain. Badbury Camp (1 mile), supposed to be the Mons Badonicus of the Romans, and the Baddiebrig of the Saxons. Here Arthur defeated Cedric, in 520. The decayed town of Hindon, 6 miles west, near which is Fonthill Abbey, Alfred Morrison, Esq., but formerly the seat of Beckford, the author of that most original Eastern story, “Caliph Vathek,” and who lived here in the most selfish retirement. It has the appearance of a vast monastic edifice, crowned by a lofty tower, visible at the distance of 40 miles, and commands views over beautifully picturesque and abundantly diversified scenery. He died and was buried at Bath.

LANGFORD. —In this vicinity are Steeple Langford, Hanging Langford, Stapleford, Grovéley Wood (here the Wiltshire hounds meet), and at East Castle, are earthworks 214 yards round. Groveley Castle contains 14 acres, is single ditched, with ramparts, and commands a beautiful view; and Hamshill, with its ditches: all of these are thought to have been British towns, occupied by the Romans. The train then proceeds on to

WISHFORD.

Here is an excellent Free Grammar School, and a handsome church. In the vicinity are South Newton and Wilton Woodford, at which the ancient Bishops of Sarum had a palace. Soon after we arrive at

WILTON.

WILTON is a place of great antiquity, and its importance is indicated by the circumstance of its having given name to the county. It was the scene of one of Alfred’s victories over the Danes in 871; and the occasional residence of the West Saxon Kings. A Benedictine abbey, for nuns, existed here at an early period, of which Alfred, and his successors, were great benefactors. The church was the abbey church. The new church is an elaborate imitation of the Lombard style, on which the Norman is founded. There is a county cross. It has much declined of late years: the population are partly engaged in the cloth and carpet factories. At that of Messrs. Blackmore, the Axminster carpet, shewn at the Exhibition, of 1851 from Gruner’s designs, was manufactured It is rather curious that this branch of manufacture was first introduced into England by a Frenchman of the name of Duffoly under the protection of the Herberts, in Elizabeth’s time. Wilton Castle is built upon the site of the abbey; it was rebuilt by Wyatt. Here Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother, lived, and Sir Philip wrote part of his Arcadia. The old castle was altered by Holbein and Inigo Jones, and visited by Charles I. Here may be seen the old rusty arms of Sir William Herbert ap Thomas, which he wore when in France with Henry V. There is a fine collection of marbles, and portraits by Vandyke; Titian, by himself; Richard II., supposed to be the oldest oil painting extant; pictures by Rubens, &c. The park is beautifully timbered, having many very aged trees. John of Wilton, of the thirteenth century; John of Wilton, in the time of Edward III.; Thomas of Wilton, in the time of Edward IV.; and Massinger, the dramatist, were natives.

FROME.

Is agreeably situated on the north-east declivity of several hills contiguous to Selwood Forest. It has considerable manufactures of woollen cloth, and an excellent grammar school, founded by Edward VI. At Nunney (3 miles) are the ruins of a castle. Marston Biggot (2 miles) Earl of Cork and Orrery. Mells Park (4 miles). Longleat Park (3½ miles) the extensive domain of the Marquis of Bath.

EAST SOMERSET.

SHEPTON MALLET.

Population, 4,868, engaged in the manufacture of crape and silk to some extent. The market cross is worth notice. It was built in the year 1500, in the form of a sexagon, with a spire and ornamental sculputre.

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

BRUTON, situated on the banks of the Brue; has a fine old English perpendicular church, an endowed hospital founded by Saxey, auditor to Queen Elizabeth, and a free grammar school by Edward VI.

CASTLE CARY

Has the remains of a castle founded by William de Percheval, in the reign of Stephen.

SPARKFORD.

Near it on the left, is Cadbury Castle, one of the most stupendous fortifications in the kingdom, belonging to the days gone by, whose everyday life is but legendary and mythical. A part of the ruins is called King Arthur’s palace.

From Yeovil a branch line to the right, of nearly 20 miles in length, joins the Bristol and Exeter line, which see, page 23 . We proceed southward, and passing the ancient village of Bradford Abbas and the stations of YETMINSTER and EVERSHOT (near which are Woolcombe House and Melbury House, at Redlynch, the seat of the Earl of Ilchester, from the grounds of which a view may be had of an immeasurable tract of country), we arrive at MAIDEN NEWTON, from which a branch to the right takes us to Bridport.

MAIDEN NEWTON AND BRIDPORT BRANCH.

POWERSTOCK. —The old town of Beaminster may be visited from this station. Its church has a tower 100 feet high, most elaborately ornamented with sculptures of various kings, and others illustrative of the woollen trade, for which this town was famous.

BRIDPORT.

A small port on the river Brit, noted from the earliest period for its hempen manufactures. Its staple productions are twine, fishing nets, and canvas, and much hemp for the purpose is grown. “He was stabbed with a Bridport dagger” was an old saying for a man that was hung.

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

Leaving Maiden Newton and passing along the Valley of the Frome, by the station of GRIMSTONE, we arrive at

Great Western Main Line continued.
Chippenham to Yatton.

Leaving the Chippenham station we continue for some time on an embankment, and then dipping into an excavation we arrive at

CORSHAM.

King Ethelred had a palace here, and it was once the favourite residence of the Earls of Cornwall. Corsham House, the seat of Lord Methuen, has a very fine collection of paintings.

Shortly after leaving this station we enter the Box Tunnel which is upwards of one mile and three quarters in length, through the solid heart and immense mass of Box Hill. At intervals a gleam of light appears down the shafts that have been cut through the rock to the surface above. Emerging once more into daylight we proceed over a wide-ranging pasture land, spotted and diversified with herds and flocks.

Passing Box Station (near which is Wraxhall House ), we soon after enter a small tunnel, which is cut through Middle Hill, adjoining a once-noted spa, so called, but now quite forsaken. Emerging from this we pass on an embankment two miles in length that carries the line onward over the Avon into the county of

SOMERSET.

FEW of the English counties present so great a variety of scenery and soil as Somerset. It possesses every gradation, from the lofty mountain and barren moor to the rich and cultivated vale, and then descends to the unimprovable marsh and fens. From Taunton to the coast extends a range of hills which slope towards Bridgewater, and on the other side they descend into a cultivated vale. Westward of this, and only terminating in the wild district of Exmoor Forest, the county is entirely mountainous and hilly. Between these there are many steep vallies, which form, when richly wooded, some of the most striking features of the beautiful scenery for which this coast is so deservedly celebrated.

Somerset, from its favourable climate and soil, stands very high in reputation for agricultural and rural produce.

The hamlets of Bathford, Bathampton, and Batheaston are now passed in rapid succession, and swerving slightly to the south, the outskirts of the “Stone-built city” itself rise in all their magnificence before us, as if evoked by a magician from the fertile pastures we have so recently quitted. A loud and prolonged whistle is borne upon the air as herald of our arrival, and we enter the elegant and commodious station at

BATH.

HOTELS. —The York House; White Lion; White Hart; The Castle; The Greyhound; Amery’s; George’s Royal.

BANKERS. — Stuckey’s Banking Co.; George Moger and Son; Tugwell and Co.; Branch of West of England and South Wales District Bank; National Provincial Bank of England.

The view from the station is one calculated to impress a stranger very favourably with the importance of the city, so renowned in the world of fashionable invalids. He sees on one side of him the river Avon, gliding placidly beneath Pulteney Bridge, and on the other a range of lofty hills, studded with terraces and isolated villas, whilst before expand the white edifices of the city. The modern city of Bath is of great beauty, and delightfully situated, in a valley, divided by the river Avon. The surrounding country is well wooded, and, from the inequality of the ground, presents a great variety of beautiful scenery, whilst, from its sheltered position, the temperature of the vale is mild. Lansdowne Hill, nearly three miles in extent, was the scene of a desperate battle, fought there between the royalists and parliamentary forces, terminating in the defeat of the latter. This magnificent elevation is now the most picturesque part of the city, having groves and terraces throned above each other almost to the summit, commanding a prospect of great extent and diversified beauty. Mansions of aristocratic appearance are scattered in all directions; spacious streets, groves, and crescents, lined with stately stone edifices, and intersected by squares and gardens, complete a view of city grandeur scarcely surpassed by any other in the kingdom. The gaieties of Bath are celebrated all over Europe; but it must be conceded that, since the reign of Beau Nash, they have terribly degenerated.

Bath is not ouly renowned for its antiquity and waters, but is one of the best built cities in the United Kingdom, standing in a spot remarkable for its attractive scenery, on the Avon and the Great Western Railway, 107 miles from London, at the centre of a fine circle of hills, 500 to 700 feet high. These hills furnish the blue lias, or oolite, and Bath stone, so much in use by architects, and of which the city has been erected. It is the seat of a bishop, whose diocese extends over Somersetshire, and its population of 54,240 send two members to parliament.

The peculiar virtue of its hot-springs were soon discovered by the Romans, who built a tower here, called Aquœ Solis (waters of the sun), a name which, under the form of Aix, Ax, Aigs, &c., still distinguishes many watering-places on the continent. The Saxons who resorted here significantly styled one of the main roads which led to it, Akeman Strutt, i.e., the road for aching men.

Besides the private baths in Stall Street, there are four public ones leased from the corporation. King’s Bath, the largest, a space 65 feet by 40, with a temperature of 114°; in the middle of it a statue to “Bladud, son of Lord Hudibras, eighth king of the Britons from Bute, &c., &c., the first discoverer of these baths, 863 years B.C., ” and so forth. King’s Bath is in Stall Street, on one side of the colonnade and the pump-room, where the band plays. It was rebuilt in 1796, on the site of that in which Beau Nash, with a white hat for his crown, despotically ruled as master of the ceremonies in the last century. His statue is seen here, by Hoare. Over the front is a Greek tee-total motto, signifying “Water is the thing.” Queen’s Bath, close to the other, and so called when James I.’s queen, Anne of Denmark, came here to take the waters. Hot Bath, which has a temperature of 117° (the highest), and is supplied by a spring which gives out 128 gallons per minute. Cross Bath, temperature 109°, yielding only 12 gallons a minute. This is the one recorded by Pepys in his diary, 1668. “Up at four o’clock, being by appointment called to the Cross Bath. By and bye much company came; very fine ladies, and the manners pretty enough, only methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water. Strange to see how hot the water is;” and he wonders that those who stay the season are not all parboiled. Another bath is the property of Lord Manvers. The water is nearly transparent; about 180,000 gallons daily are given out to these baths, and this has been going on for centuries! Sulphate of lime is by far the chief ingredient; then muriate and sulphate of soda, and a little carbonic acid rising up in bubbles. They are remarkably beneficial in rheumatism, paralysis, skin complaints, scrofula, gout, indigestion, and chronic diseases of the liver, &c. House painters, among others, come here to be cured of the injury done to their hands by white lead.

Bath is a city of terraces and crescents—viz:—the Circus, the North and South Parades, the Royal and Lansdowne Crescents, and others, either in the town or on the hills around. Some of the best buildings are by Wood, author of “Description of Bath.” Among the 20 churches is the Abbey Church, or Cathedral, which replaces a monastery, founded in 970, by King Edgar; it is a cross, 240 feet long, built in the 16th century, and has 52 windows inside, with a rich one in the fine east front, and some good tracery in Prior Bird’s Chapel. There are monuments to Waller, the parliament general (effigy, with a broken nose), to Bishop Montague, who restored the church, 1606, to Nash (lines by Dr. Harrington); Quin, the actor (lines by Garrick); Mary Frampton (lines by Dryden); Col. Champion, by Nollekens; and Anstey, author of the coarse witty “New Bath Guide.”

St. James’s is a modern Grecian church with a high tower, in Stall Street. Another church, with a fine early English spire, stands in Broad Street. St. Saviour’s, at the eastern extremity of the city, and St. Stephen’s, on Lansdowne, are modern Gothic churches; and several others of note. Milsom Street and Bond Street contain the best shops. Near are the Circus, and the Assembly Room, a handsome pile, built in 1771 by Wood, with a ball-room 106 feet long, and an octagon full of portraits. Another of Wood’s works, the Royal Crescent, is worth notice; Smollett called it “an antique amphitheatre turned inside out.” The Guildhall, a noble building in the Grecian style, is in High Street. Near at hand is a well-stocked market. Its supply of fish is very good.

Within a short distance is the General Hospital, founded chiefly through Beau Nash’s exertions, for the benefit of poor people, from all parts, using the Bath waters. Bellot’s Hospital, an old building, founded in 1609. The Casualty and United Hospitals are among the various munificent institutions here. Partis’s College was founded for ladies of decayed fortune. St. John’s Hospital, founded in the 12th century, and rebuilt by Wood, near Cross Bath, has an income of £9,000.

There is a full and interesting museum of Roman antiquities and fossil remains at the Literary Institution, near the Baths and Parade. A club-house in York Buildings, and several public libraries.

A large Grammar School, rebuilt in 1752, stands in Broad Street; here Sir Sidney Smith was educated. Beau Nash died in St. John’s Court, 1761, old and neglected. A well-built theatre is in Beaufort Square. The Sydney or Vauxhall Gardens at Great Pulteney Street (so called after the Pulteney who became first Earl of Bath). Victoria Park, with a drive, pillar, botanic garden, &c., occupies the Town Common. There are also obelisks to the Prince of Orange and the Prince of Wales, father of George III. The new savings bank, in the Italian style, was built in 1842.

Of nine bridges over the Avon three are suspension bridges, two are viaducts for the railway, and the best looking is that on the North Parade, a single arch of 188 feet span.

All the hills command fine views, of more or less extent, and are marked by buildings, &c. On Odd Down (south), is the Union Workhouse. A vast quarry of Bath stone is opened in Coomb Down (south west), on which are the Abbey Church Cemetery, and Prior Park College—a handsome building. In Pope’s time it was the property of his friend, Ralph Allen (the Allworthy of Fielding’s Tom Jones ), and Warburton. Allen built Sham Castle, on Claverton Down. The beautiful vale of Lyncombe is near this. Lansdowne Hill, 813 feet high, on the north, has a cemetery, two large colleges, one belonging to the Wesleyans; pillar to the memory of Sir B. Granville, who fell here, in 1645, and a striking campanile tower, built by Beckford, of Fonthill, who died here in 1844, and is buried in the cemetery. He wrote “Caliph Vathek,” a most original story, which created quite a “furore” in those days. His daughter, the beautiful Sally Beckford, is Dowager Duchess of Hamilton.

Other points are Batheaston Church and Salisbury Hill, 600 feet high, near the old Roman road, on the east; Hampton Cliffs, at Bathford, on the west; Charlcombe and Weston Downs; Kelston (or Kelweston) Round. At Twerton a factory for the cloth or Bath coating for which the town was once noted. Paper is made here. Further off are the ruins of Hinton Priory, and Farleigh Castle.

The “ever-memorable” John Hales, and Miss Edgeworth’s father (whose entertaining memoirs are well worth perusal), were born at Bath.

From the Bath station the railway is carried on a viaduct, continued by alternate excavation and embankment, over the Old Bath Road. We soon after pass into an excavation, and then through a tunnel. Amid a succession of very varied and beautiful scenery along the line, we reach the station of

SALTFORD.

A very deep excavation here follows, and through a Gothic gateway conducts us to the Saltford Tunnel. An embankment succeeds across the valley of the Avon, and passing over a viaduct we arrive at

KEYNSHAM.

MARKET DAY. —Thursday. FAIRS. —March 24th and 26th, April 27th, and August 15th.

Proceeding over a lofty embankment, which affords a commanding prospect on every side, and enables us to trace the windings of the silvery Avon, along its verdant shores, edged with towering poplars and branching elms. Nature here seems to have put on her loveliest robe, but Art, as if envious of her beauty, jealously encloses us in a ponderous cutting at the very moment we are most enthusiastically enjoying the prospect.

The train then passes through several tunnels, and flitting over a three-arched bridge that spans the Avon, we again reach an embankment, during our passage over which our speed is gradually slackened, and we pass beneath that splendid archway, the entrance to

BRISTOL.

MARKET DAYS. —Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. FAIRS. —March 1st and September 1st

BANKERS. — Branch of the Bank of England; Baillie, Ames, and Co.; Miles and Co.; Stuckey’s Banking Co.; National Provincial Bank of England; West of England and South Wales District Banking Co.

The terminus of the railway is situated on an eminence rising from Temple Meads, where the two lines diverge respectively to London and Plymouth.

BRISTOL is a cathedral city, sea-port, and parliamentary borough in Gloucestershire, 118 miles from London, on the Great Western Railway, and the Via Julia, or Roman road, made by Julius Agricola, which crossed into Wales at Aust Ferry. The beautiful watering place of Clifton is on the west side. Bedminster, within the borough bounds, belongs to Somersetshire. Its port is artificially made by excavating floating docks, 3 miles long, out of the old bed of the Avon (for which a new course was made), about 8 miles from King’s Road in the Bristol Channel, the tide rising 40 to 50 feet. Since the tolls were reduced in 1848, the registered tonnage has risen to 71,000, and the foreign trade doubled. Much West India and Irish produce finds way into the country through this port. The chief manufactures are engines, glass, hats, pottery, soap, brushes, &c., besides various smaller branches, and a trade in sugar, rum, &c. This place has, from the earliest times, been an important seaport, from whence old navigators used to start. One of the foremost was Sebastian Cabot, a native, who sailed hence in 1497 to discover Labrador. Kidnapping, also, for the American plantations used to be practised here, and it shared with Liverpool in the iniquities of the slave trade. In the present day it is noted for having sent the first steamer across the Atlantic, the Great Western (Capt. Hosken),which sailed on the 2nd May, 1838, and reached New York in 15 days. Two members. Coal and oolite are quarried.

The oldest part of the town is in Temple, Peter, and other streets, where picturesque timber houses are seen. There are many buildings worth notice. At College Green (where a new High Cross has been erected) is the Cathedral, a plain, shapeless, early English church, built in 1142–60, and about 174 feet long internally; it has a tower 133 feet high, with some effigies of the Berkeleys, &c., and various interesting monuments and inscriptions. The latest is that of Southey, a native. Near is a Norman chapter House 43 feet long, the cloisters, gate, &c., of a priory founded by the Berkeley family; also a part of the Bishop’s Palace, set fire to in the riots of 1831, when Wetherell was appointed Recorder. The bishop now resides at Stapleton. A more interesting church is that of St. Mary Redcliffe, a truly beautiful early and later English cross, 247 feet long, rebuilt in the 15th century by the famous William Canynges, and now partly restored. St. John’s, St. Peter’s, St. Stephen’s, St. James’s, the Temple, and St. Mark’s are all ancient edifices. At All Saints, E. Colston, a great benefactor to his native place, is buried. The Guildhall, in Broad Street, has been rebuilt in the Elizabethan style, and among other curiosities it contains an ancient chapel. Henry VII’ sword (he visited it in 1487, taking care to entail a sumptuary fine on the citizens because their wives dressed too gaudily) a series of grants from 1164, seals from Edward I., Lord Mayor Wallis’s pearl scabbard sword (given in 1431), and Alderman Kitchen’s silver salver (as old as 1594), which, being stolen in the riots of 1831, was cut into 167 pieces, recovered, and put together again! Other buildings are, the Council House, with a statue of Justice, by Baily (who is a native); new Custom-house (rebuilt since the riots, in Queen Square, near William of Orange’s statue; Exchange, in Corn Street, built by Wood, of Bath, in 1743; Merchant Tailors’ Old Hall, in Broad Street; Stuckey’s Bank, which was sent ready made from Holland; Philosophical Institution, with Baily’s exquisite Eve at the Fountain in its museum. Bishop’s College and the Blind Asylum are in the Park, near the Horticultural Rooms; Proprietary and Baptist Colleges; Queen Elizabeth’s Hospital on Brandon Hill, which is 250 feet high.

St. Vincent’s Rocks are 300 feet high; at the Observatory a suspension bridge over the Avon to Leigh Wood is begun, but not finished. Another beautiful spot is at the Zoological Gardens, near Cook’s Folly, on Durdham Down. The Clifton Hot Wells, or sulphur springs, near here, are excellent in cases of scrofula and chronic diseases. The following most feeling lines were written at this place by the second Lord Palmerston, in the last century:—

“Whoe’er, like me, with trembling anguish brings

His dearest earthly treasure to these springs,

Whoe’er, like me, to soothe distress and pain,

Shall court these salutary springs in vain;

Condemn’d, like me, to hear the faint reply,

To mark the fading cheek, the sinking eye;

From the chill brow to wipe the damps of death,

And watch in dumb despair the shortening breath,

If chance should bring him to this humble line

Let the sad mourner know this pang was mine,

Ordained to love the partner of my breast,

Whose virtue warmed me, and whose beauty blessed;

Framed every tie that binds the heart to prove,

Her duty friendship, and her friendship love;

But yet remembering that the parting sigh

Appoints the just to slumber, not to die,

The starting tear I checked—I kissed the rod,

And not to earth resigned her—but to God.”

Lansdowne Square, Windsor and York Crescents, and the Victoria Rooms (a pretty Grecian temple), are here. On the Down above, there is a Roman camp. Here many plants, and quartz or Bristol stones are found. Mr. Pepys records his approval of another native production, “Bristol milk,” or old sherry. At Temple Mead are various metal works, sugar refineries, &c. One of Wesley’s first chapels was built in 1739 in the Horse Fair; and there is a Wesleyan College at Kingswood (4 miles off) where Whitfleld and he often preached the Gospel to the poor outcast colliers, till the “tears made white gutters down their black cheeks.”

Admiral Penn, Sir Thomas Lawrence (born at the White Lion), and Chatterton, are among the long list of natives of Bristol.

Twelve or more bridges cross the Avon and the line of Docks—the cutting forming a sort of loop line to the river. Of about 120 places of worship, 42 are churches

Within a short distance are Leigh Court and its picture gallery, the seat of P. Miles, Esq., M.P. Kingsweston, the Clifford’s old seat, belongs to the same gentleman. Stapleton is the seat of the Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, near the new diocesan college; Hannah More was born here in 1744, but her chief residence was at Barley Wood, under the Mendip Hill. At Westbury, “in some of the finest ground of that truly beautiful part of England,” Southey was living about 1796 or 1797, writing Madoc and Thalaba, and cultivating his acquaintance with Davy, the chemist, “a miraculous young man.” This was one of the “happiestportions” of his useful and contented literary life. The rail should be followed to Clevedon and Weston-super-Mare, to enjoy the fine coast scenery of the Bristol Channel.

CLIFTON, a beautiful suburb of Bristol, from which it is about a mile distant, is chiefly built on the southern acclivity of a steep hill or cliff, which has given rise to its appellation. The highly romantic and picturesque country, in the midst of which it is situated, provides on every side the most varied and extensive prospects. On the opposite shore of the Avon, the richly cultivated lands of Somersetshire present themselves, rising gradually from the verge of the river to the summit of Dundry Hill. In some places the rocks, venerably majestic, rise perpendicularly, or overhanging precipices, craggy and bare, and in others they are crowned with verdure of the most luxuriant description. The walks and rides are varied and interesting, the air is dry and bracing, and the vicinity of two such animated places as Bristol and Bath, give the resident at any time the opportunity of rapidly exchanging his solitude for society. The “Hot Wells,” where “pale-eyed suppliants drink, and soon flies pain,” are beautifully situated beneath the rocks looking on the river, along the banks of which a fine carriage-road leads from the well round the rocks to Clifton Down, but a readier and more picturesque mode of access is furnished by an easy serpentine path winding up among the cliffs behind the Hot Wells. Pieces of the rock, when broken, have much the appearance of a dark red marble, and when struck by a substance of corresponding hardness, emit a strong sulphurous smell. In the fissures of these rocks are found those fine crystals, usually called Bristol diamonds, which are so hard as to cut glass and sustain the action of fire. The spring has been known for many centuries, but it was not till 1690 that it was enclosed by the corporation of Bristol. There is now a neat pump-room with hot and cold baths. The temperature of the spring, which yields forty gallons a minute, is 76° Fahrenheit. As at Bath and Buxton, the predominating constituents are the salts of lime. When drawn into a glass the water emits a few bubbles of carbonic acid gas, and for various conditions of deranged health it is found to be a potent restorative. The range of buildings called York Crescent, affords an agreeable southern aspect, but the elevated situation leaves the houses much exposed to high winds. The Mall, the Parade, and Cornwallis Crescent furnish excellent accommodation to visitors, and, according to their respective differences of position, yield a sheltered winter or an open airy summer residence. The most prevalent winds are those from the west and south-east. Rain frequently falls, but from the absorbent nature of the soil, the ground quickly dries. The Giant’s Cave is contained within the upper beds of the limestone in St. Vincent’s Rocks. The cavern opens on the precipitous escarpment of the rock, at the height of about 250 feet above the river, and sixty feet below or to the west of the Observatory. A rude and broken ledge extends from the north-eastern summit of the rock downwards to within twenty feet of the opening, across which space none but an expert cragsman would venture to pass. The environs of Clifton are replete with scenery of the most enchanting description.

BRISTOL AND EXETER.

Bristol to Highbridge.

On leaving the station at Bristol, the lofty root and portly walls glide away almost insensibly from our vision, and leave us in exchange the free air and undulating grounds of a wide and open country, through which the continuous iron line is seen wending onward. The embankment on which we are carried reveals to us passing glimpses of luxuriant lands, and towercrested eminences, fertile to the summit, the chief charms and characteristics of all Somerset. About two miles from Bristol we pass under the old turnpike road to Wells and Bridgewater, and in another mile come upon an elevation which unfolds a bold and romantic view of the surrounding country. Ashton Hill, and Leigh Down, with the pretty picturesque village of Long Ashton, form a very attractive picture to the right; and opposite, soaring above the level of the sea to 700 feet, rises the majestic eminence of Dundry Beacon, the turreted summit of which becomes a prominent object for many miles. A cutting here intercepts the view and we pass the stations of

BOURTON, NAILSEA and YATTON, places of no importance, except the latter as being the junction of the

CLEVEDON BRANCH.

Continuing our journey to the right, we reach, in about four miles further, by alternate embankment and excavation,

CLEVEDON.

This is a charmingly situated and rapidly improving watering place, much frequented by the citizens of Bristol during the summer season. Situated on the margin of the Bristol Channel, with rugged and precipitous rocks rising boldly up from the

Clevedon presents a very attractive place of resort to both the occasional tourist and valetudinarian, who seeks a quiet retreat for health’s sake. Myrtles and other delicate shrubs flourish in the gardens at all seasons, so temperate is the air.

After leaving Yatton we catch a very pleasing view of the Channel, with its dimpled surface spotted with white sails, and its range of ruddy headlands stretching far away in the distance. Green hills, diversified by open downs and richly cultivated corn lands, constitute a delightful contrast in the opposite direction; and thus, amid a varied succession of prospects, we reach the station at

BANWELL.

This little village has become of some notoriety from the discovery of two caverns in its vicinity, one called the Stalactite, and the other the Bone Cave, which attract a great number of visitors. Locking and Hatton adjacent, with their antiquated churches—the cavern of Wokey, and the Chees—celebrated cliffs of Cheddar, are all worth visiting.

Leaving the Banwell station, we pass the villages of Wick, St. Lawrence, Kewstoke, and further on, Worle Hill, which commands a series of extensive maritime and inland views, and variegated landscapes.

WESTON – SUPER – MARE.— (Branch).

WESTON-SUPER- MARE has the advantage of being very accessible from Bristol, Bath, Exeter, and other towns on the line of the Great Western Railway. It has none of the picturesqueness arising from old streets and buildings, but, situated on the margin of Uphill Bay, near the Bristol Channel, it possesses the usual attractions of a neat watering place, having within the last ten years become considerably enlarged and frequented. The receding of the tide leaves a disfiguring bank of mud along the beach, which is a great drawback to the enjoyment of bathing; but a good market, numerous shops, and a delightful neighbourhood for rambling, present some counterbalancing advantages. Worle Hill is one of the pleasantest spots that a tourist could desire to meet with. In traversing the northern or sea side of the hill, the path lies, most of the way, through a copse of young fir trees, presenting occasional openings of the Channel and the rocky coast beyond. Towards the eastern end of the hill beautiful prospects are unfolded over a large and richly cultivated plain, extending to Woodspring Priory and Clevedon, with two or three churches standing up amid the elms and ashes. The nearest of these is Kewstoke Church, situated on the slope of Worle Hill itself. It derives its name from St. Kew, who once formed his cell on the bleak hill top. From the church a craggy track, called the Pass of St. Kew, consisting of a hundred natural and artificial steps, leads over the hill to the village of Milton on the opposite side, and these are said to have been worn by the feet of the pious recluse, as he daily went to perform his devotions at the church, which then occupied the same spot as it does at present. The ruins of the Priory at Woodspring are of considerable extent, and very picturesque, situated in a very solitary position at the farther end of a wide marshy but cultivated flat; they are divided from the sea by a narrow ridge of rocks, called Swallow Cliffs, quite out of the way of any frequented road. Crossing the broad mossy top of Worle Hill we can descend upon the village or Worle, which is prettily situated on the southern slope of the hill, and commands a delightful view over the richly cultivated flat to the range of the Mendip Hills. In short, the inducements to prolong a visit to Weston will be found principally to arise from the charming localities by which it is surrounded. The climate is bracing, and the air is very salubrious.

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.

HIGHBRIDGE.

BURNHAM (Branch).

This place from its invigorating atmosphere and affording, as it does, the usual requisites of a sea-side retreat, has become valuable to the tourist in the summer season. Steamers run regularly, plying between this place and Cardiff.

SOMERSET AND DORSET.

Highbridge to Wells and Templeeombe.

The line proceeds through a country equally characterised by its luxuriant verdure as that about Highbridge, and crossing the river Brue, we pass through a short cutting which shuts out the prospect; but on emerging from this, and entering on an embankment, we again have a panoramic view of Arcadian villages, waving woods, and winding hedge-rows.

The Stations on this line are those of BASON BRIDGR, EDINGTON (a nice trip hence over the Panlet Ridge to Sedgemoor), SHAPWICK, ASHCOTT, stations of no particular note, and

GLASTONBURY.

This town, containing a population of 3,496, is situated near a high hill called the Tor, on which is a tower that serves for a sea mark. Here are considerable ruins of a famous abbey, which occupied an area of 60 acres. The Grange Inn was formerly an hospital for the accommodation of pilgrims who visited the abbey, and to see the holy thorn, said to have been planted by Joseph of Arimathea, and to blossom on Christmas eve. The last abbot of this place was hanged on the top of the Tor, by order of Henry VIII., for not acknowledging his supremacy.

WELLS.

This ancient city is prettily situated in a valley at the foot of the Mendip hills, and has a population of 4,648. Conjointly with Bath it forms the see of a bishop, and returns two members to Parliament. Its cathedral ranks amongst the most important, and presents one of the most splendid specimens of Gothic architecture in England.

We next pass the stations of WEST PEONARD, PYLLE, EVERCREECH, and COLE, and stop at

WINCANTON,

A small town on the river Cale, beautifully sheltered by shady woods. Here the first blood was shed in the revolution of 1688, between the Prince of Orange and James’s adherents.

Temple Combe. —This forms the junction of the main line from Salisbury to Exeter, details of which will be found in Section I ., page 77 .

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.
Highbridge to Durston Junction.

BRIDGEWATER.

A port and borough in Somersetshire, on the Great Western Railway, 29 miles from Bristol, a bay, and the mouth of the Parret. Common red bricks of an excellent quality, and the white scouring “Bath Brick” as it is called, though peculiar to Bridgewater, is only made here by two or three firms They are manufactured from the slime deposited on the banks of the Parret, where untouched by the salt water (which spoils it), and burnt at the top of the kiln, above the red bricks.

It returns two members, and has a population of 11,320. About 8,500 tons of shipping belong to the port; small vessels of 200 tons come up to the quay. Admiral Blake was born here in 1599, the son of a merchant. He sat for his native town in parliament. “He was the first man (says Clarendon) who brought ships to contemn castles on shore, which......were discovered by him to make a noise only; and......who infused that proportion of courage into the seamen, by making them see what mighty things they could do if they were resolved.” There was fortress on Castle Hill, built after the Conquest, by Walter de Douai, from whom, or from the bridge which he began, the town takes its name, Bridge-Walter.

At this spot the Duke of Monmouth was proclaimed, before his defeat at Sedgemoor, 1685. It is a level marshy tract, four miles south east, intersected by the Cary, but much altered since that event. Many of the wretched prisoners were brought here to be butchered by Jefferies and his satellite, Kirke.

The large Gothic parish church has a good porch, and a fine spire, 174 feet high, with the “Descent from the Cross,” after Guido. Other buildings are the Town Hall, with a great cistern over it, for supplying the town with water, a Market House, surmounted by a dome, &c., but none very remarkable.

In the neighbourhood are Brymore House, seat of Hon. P. Bouverie, where Pyne, “King Pyne,” of the Long Parliament, lived. Enmore Castle, Earl Egmont, Halsewell, Colonel Tynte; gallery of Vandykes, &c. All these are to the west of the town, in view of the Quantock Hills; and the road may be followed to Watchet, Dunster, Minehead, and other rocky parts of the coast. At Nether Stowey, Coleridge lived, in 1796–8, after his marriage, in company with his friend Charles Lloyd, the poet; and here he wrote his “Ancient Mariner,” and the tragedy of “Remorse.” Wordsworth at the same time was his neighbour, at Alfoxton or Allfoxden, where he composed his “Lyrical Ballads,” the subject of many interminable discussions with the friends, as they walked over the hills together.

DURSTON JUNCTION.

YEOVIL BRANCH.—Durston to Yeovil.

The route from Durston takes in the stations of ATHELNEY, LANGPORT and MARTOCK. They require no special comment.

YEOVIL.

An ancient town, the seat of a considerable glove trade. Population, 7,957. It has a fine Gothic church, and a large market house, well calculated for its large market, which occurs on Fridays. In the vicinity is Brympton House, the old seat of the Fane family.

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.
Durston to Tiverton and Exeter.

On leaving the Bridgewater station the line is continued by embankment across the river Parret, and soon after we enter the fertile valley of the Tone. The river, which gives name to this luxuriant district rises in the Quantock hills, near the town of Wiveliscombe, and, flowing for some miles, passes Taunton, to which town it gives name. Taunton Dean is famed for its fruitful ground, which is proverbially alleged to produce three crops a year After gliding along several scenes of wild fertility and romantic beauty, we pass a hill which quite shuts out the prospect, and entering a brief but deep cutting, we reach the neat and commodtous station at

TAUNTON.

The town, as seen from the station, has a most pleasing appearance. It is situated in the central part of the luxuriant and beautiful vale of Taunton Dean.

TAUNTON is an ancient borough town, population 14,667 (two members), in a rich and beautiful part of Somersetshire, on the Bristol and Exeter railway, 163 miles from London. The wide and cultivated dean, or shallow strath, in which it stands is watered by the Tone (wherefore the Saxons called it Tantun ), and overlooked by the tower of its Gothic church, which is of Henry Seventh’s age. The tower is 153 feet high, of light and elegant proportions, covered over with heads of lions, &c., and set off with pinnacles, battlements and niches, in the elaborate style of that day, of which, indeed, Somersetshire furnishes many excellent specimens. There is some good carved work inside, about the pulpit and niches, and a fine organ. Quaint epitaph to Sheriff Grey, founder of a hospital, who left this place a poor boy:—

And another on a tailor, who invented ruffs. The Assize Court is an ancient building, 120 feet long, crected in 1577, close to the gate of the Castle, which was founded here by Ina, King of Wessex, and rebuilt after the Conquest by the Bishops of Winchester. It was successfully defended by Blake against the Royalists in the civil war, but dismantled by Charles II. Here the ill-fated Monmouth proclaimed himself king in 1685. Forty young ladies presented him with a banner, worked at the cost of the town, for which they were specially excepted in King James’ proclamation of amnesty, issued some months afterwards. After his defeat at Sedgemoor, near Bridgewater, King James’s Chief Justice, Jefferies, the worthy tool of such a monster, held his bloody assize at Taunton, when hundreds of poor wretches were condemned to death, after being persuaded to throw themselves on the king’s mercy. His executioner, Kirke, hanged one man three times on the White Hart sign post, and cried out he would do it again if he could. The joy of the town therefore, when the Prince of Orange appeared, was proportionately great. The Town Hall and Assembly Room, built in 1723, are over the market place, which stands in an open spot at the junction of the principal streets, called the Parade. A new room at the Taunton Institution was established in 1823. There is now being built a new Shire Hall, to be used instead of the old assize courts. The streets are in general airy and well built, which adds considerably to the pleasant aspect of the town. The outskirts are furnished with large spreading gardens and orchards. One of the best and most conspicuous buildings is the Wesleyan Collegiate Institution, a Tudor range, 250 feet long (built 1847); it contains room for 100 students. This, among others, was the result of the centenary celebration.

A little outside Taunton, across the Tone, is Price’s Farm, the site of a friary; and in this direction you come on a very ancient bridge, of one arch, called Ram’s Horn, and which is said to be a Roman structure.

Within a short distance of Taunton are also Pyrland, the seat of R. King, Esq. Sandhill, that of Sir T. Lethbridge, Bart., is near Combe Florey, the rectory formerly of Sydney Smith. Milverton, in a pretty spot, was the birth place of the philosopher, the late Dr. Thomas Young. Ninehead is the seat of E. Sandford, Esq.

The West Somerset, a line 14 miles long, turns off here to the right and runs through BISHOPS LYDEARD, CRAWCOMBE, STOGUMBER, and WILLITON, to the market town of

WATCHET.

A coast guard station, prettily seated in a secluded creek on the Bristol Channel. Dunster Castle and the beautiful watering place of Minehead, standing on the cliffs to the south, are within a very short distance. A few miles further on the same coast, but somewhat more inland, brings the tourist to the sources of the Exe, in Exmore Forest, a wild but interesting tract, where the red deer is sometimes seen.

Leaving the Taunton station we are subjected for a short time to the confinement of a cutting, on passing which we perceive the Bridgewater and Taunton canal on our left, while the eminences to our right are crowned with picturesque villages. Proceeding on an embankment, the little hamlet of Bishop’s Hall is passed, and we soon after cross several streams tributary to the Tone, that gleam and sparkle between the patches of meadow land and forest scenery by which they are skirted in their progress. After crossing a viaduct over the Tone, the arch of Shaw bridge, and passing an excavation, we are carried forward by a sinuous embankment to

WELLINGTON.

Here is a Gothic church of which W. S. Salkeld was rector in James I.’s time. The Duke of Wellington, who derives his title from this place, is lord of the manor. A pillar, in honour of the Hero of Waterloo, was erected on Blackdown Hill. This range of hills is on the Devonshire borders, and produces stone used by scythe grinders, &c.

Quitting the station, and again crossing the Tone, we enter an excavation which conducts us to the White Ball Tunnel, a fine piece of arched brick work nearly one mile in length. About the centre we attain the highest elevation between Bristol and Exeter, and on emerging from its obscuration we find ourselves in the magnificent county of Devon, with the Wellington memorial cresting the summit of a distant hill on our left, and the long range of precipices, known as the Blackdown Hills, far away before us, apparently extending to the very verge of the sea.

DEVONSHIRE.

THIS county is one of the most beautiful in England, and in point of size is only exceeded by that of York. It is about 280 miles in circuit. Its external appearance is varied and irregular; and the heights in many parts, particularly in the vicinity of Dartmouth, swell into mountains.

Dartmoor, and the waste called Dartmoor Forest, occupy the greater portion of the western district, which extends from the vale of Exeter to the banks of the river Tamar.

The cultivated lands of West Devon are nearly all inclosures, being in general large in proportion to the size of the farms. North Devon comprehends the country round Bideford.

Amidst a succession of scenery almost purely pastoral we are again startled by the premonitory whistle of the engine, and find ourselves opposite

TIVERTON JUNCTION (Uffculme).

TIVERTON BRANCH.

TIVERTON.

MARKET DAY. —Tuesday. FAIRS. —Tuesday fortnight after Whitsunday, and September 29th.

TIVERTON has a population of 10,447, returning two members to parliament. It is a place of considerable antiquity, being a small village in the time of Alfred the Great, and described in the Doomsday Survey as belonging to the king. The manorial rights originally, by virtue of a gift from Henry I., belonged to Richard Rivers, after. wards Earl of Devon, who built a castle, and, residing here, greatly added to the prosperity of the place.

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.

Leaving the Tiverton junction, the line is continued for some time on an embankment, but the beauty of Devonshire scenery is more to be found in the village lanes and unfrequented byeways, than near the somewhat monotonous levels which a railway of necessity maintains. Thus the six miles’ walk across the hills from Tiverton to Collumpton is a marvellous treat to the pedestrian, whereas the railway tourist sees nothing but a rather dreary succession of green flats, this particular part being devoid of those striking characteristics in the landscape we have hitherto described, and the view of which renders the journey so interesting.

COLLUMPTON.

This little town, though containing a population of only 3,185, is one of great antiquity, having been in the possession of Alfred the Great, and afterwards belonging to Buckland Abbey. It has some manufactories for woollen and paper.

HELE.

Again borne onwards by our never-tiring iron steed, at a speed outstripping the breeze of summer, we become conscious of a moving panorama, which has regained most of the alluring features that we have been recently regretting.

We traverse the valley of the Culme—past Bradninch, through cutting and over embankment—and the winding Exe and Cowley Bridge, and then, after a few minutes of woodland scenery, our speed slackens, the well-known whistle of the engine follows, and we are hurried beneath the portico of a commodious building, which forms the station at

EXETER.

FLY FARES. —To and from any part of the City, 1s.; to and from Heavitree, 1s. 6d.; to and from Mount Radford, 1s. 6d; beyond the boundaries of the City, 1s. per mile. A fraction of a mile considered as a mile.

BANKERS. —Milford and Co.; Sanders and Co.; Branch of West of England and South Wales District Bank; Branch of Devon and Cornwall Banking Co.; National Provincial Bank of England.

EXETER is pleasantly situated on an eminence rising from the eastern bank of the river Exe, which encompasses its south-west side, and over which it has a handsome stone bridge.

Exeter is the capital of Devon and the West of England, a Bishop’s see, city, and parliamentary borough, on the Great Western (Bristol and Exeter) Railway, 194 miles from London. It is also a port, eight miles from the Channel, up the Exe, from which it derives the Saxon name, Excester, or the fortress on the Exe, so called because of the Roman station planted here. Population, 41,749; two members. Exeter stretches for nearly two miles over a hill above the river, and is, therefore, not only pleasantly seated, but well drained, except in some parts of the suburbs. At the top, north of the town, are the picturesque ruined walls and gate of Rougemont (Red Hill) Castle, first built by the Conqueror, and rased by Parliament, when Fairfax took it in 1646, after a siege. This is one of the best points of view, an is the spot where Colonel Penruddock was beheaded by Cromwell, for his premature rising for the king. The Sessions House stands within the bounds; close to it is the fine elm walk of Northernbay. Friar’s Walk, Pennsylvania Hill, and Mount Radford also command good views. “There be divers fair streets in Exeter (says Leland, in Henry VIII.’s time), but the High Street that goeth from the west to the east gate is the fairest.” The gates he saw are gone, but parts of the strong walls remain, from whence there are good prospects. Where the street falls suddenly, two or three dry bridges have been built (the iron bridge in North Street, for instance), to save the descent. Another of stone, in line with High and Fore Streets, crosses the river, which runs rather swiftly here. In High Street is the venerable-looking Guildhall, containing portraits of Charles I., Queen Henrietta Maria and her daughter, the Duchess of Orleans, General Monk (by Lely), George II., &c. Lemprière was master of the Grammar School at St. John’s Hospital. The Theatre is on the site of old Bedford House, where the Duchess of Orleans was born in the civil war.

On the east, near High Street, stands the fine Cathedral, which, as usual, is a cross 375 feet long, internally. It is mostly early English, but the Norman towers, 145 feet high, belong to an older edifice erected by Bishop Warlewast, and half ruined in the siege of 1137, when King Stephen took the town. The nave, choir, &c., were rebuilt as we see them now, between 1281 and 1420. Bishop Grandison’s west front is perhaps the most striking part. It has been lately restored, and is full of statues of kings, bishops, and scripture characters in niches. The window is also stained with a profusion of figures and coats of arms. The vault of the nave deserves notice. In the north tower is the great Peter bell, weighing 5½ tons; ascend this tower for the view. A lady chapel, 56 feet by 30, is of the 14th century. The bishop’s throne is of beautiful carved oak, 52 feet high, and as old as 1470. Among the monuments are Humphrey Bohun, Bishop Bronescombe (1280), Bishop Stafford, the Courtenays, &c., and a fine one to Northcote, the painter, by Chantrey. The Chapter House is Gothic 50 feet by 30, with a carved timber roof, and contains a library of 8,000 vols. A ship canal brings vessel up to the quay, where there is a very considerable trade carried on. Some of the best cider is made in the environs.

Excursions may be made from this point to Crediton, the original seat of the bishopric; Heavitree where Richard Hooker was born; Topsham, Powderham Castle (Earl of Devon), and Exmouth, down the Exe; over the Haldon Downs to Chudleigh and Ugbrook (Lord Clifford); Exmouth, Sidmonth, Dawlish, Teignmouth, and Torquay, and other beautiful spots along the coast; Bicton, seat of Lady Rolle, near Hayes Farm, where Raleigh was born. The entire coast of Devonshire is, perhaps, the most attractive in England.

Bude —a small port and picturesque village in the north-castern extremity of Cornwall—has, within the last half-dozen years, risen to the dignity of a fashionable marine resort, to which distinction the excellent facilities it affords to bathers, and the picturesque scenery of its environs, have in a great measure contributed. The bed of the harbour, which is dry at low water, is composed of a fine bright yellow sand, chiefly consisting of small shells. The sea view is of a striking, bold, and sublime description—the rocks rising on every side to lofty broken elevations; and those who desire a sequestered and romantic retreat will find in Bude the very object of their wish. The Bude Canal was commenced in 1819, and completed in 1826, at a cost of £128,000. It terminates within three miles of Launceston, forming an internal communication through Devon and Cornwall of nearly forty miles. Bude is fifty-two miles from Exeter.

The Exeter and Exmouth railway is now open, and runs viâ the stations of TOPSHAM, WOODBURY ROAD, and LYMPSTONE. The route here described, however, is by the old coach road, which, by the lover of the picturesque and the still lingering fascinations connected with the old mode of travelling, may have its superior attractions.

Passing through Topsham the road is studded with those charming old-fashioned villages that still linger in all their primitive simplicity along the western coast. From a hill called Beacon Hill, encountered in the progress, the eye is presented with a line of coast extending from Exeter to the southern boundary of Torbay, Berry Head, a distance of about twenty miles. This line is broken by several hills that ascend gradually from the opposite side of the river, clad with verdure to the summit, and sheltering the little village of Starcross in a wooded enclosure beneath. Mamhead and Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon, heighten the beauty of the prospect, which is additionally embellished by the noble buildings connected with those estates.

EXMOUTH.

This place has, within the last few years, made rapid strides in the march of improvement. The Beacon Hill is covered with buildings, and the Parade is stretching away right and left, with no visible signs, hitherto, of limitation.

Situated on the eastern side of the river Exe, two projecting sand banks form a partial enclosure, leaving an opening of about one-third the width of the harbour. The Exe is here about a mile and a half across, and though the entrance is somewhat difficult, the harbour is very convenient, and will admit the passage of ships of more than 300 tons burden.

There are two good inns, numerous boarding-houses and apartments, and a good subscription library and reading-room, but the visitor must create his own amusement, chiefly in the rides or pedestrian excursions, which the beauty of the surrounding country will so well afford the opportunity of enjoying. The proper time for bathing here is at high water, but there are hot and cold baths that can be taken at any hour, conveniently situated under the Beacon Terrace. Like many other maritime towns in Devonshire, Exmouth has in its immediate neighbourhood a valley sheltered on all sides from the winds, and capable of affording a genial retreat to those affected with complaints in the lungs. This will be found at Salterton, four miles to the east, and here the romantic caverns of the secluded bay, the rough but richly-pebbled beach, and the continuous marine prospect, will form irresistible temptations to explore the way thither. Dr. Clarke says, in speaking of the climate—”Exmouth is decidedly a healthy place, and notwithstanding the whole of this coast is rather humid, agues are almost unknown.” Invalids often experience the greatest benefit from a residence here, more particularly on the Beacon Hill, the most elevated and finest situation in the neighbourhood, and which, as some compensation for the south-west gales, commands one of the most magnificent views in Devonshire. Along the southern base of this hill there is also a road of considerable extent, protected from the north and north-east winds, and well suited for exercise when they prevail; and here it may be remarked, that between the summer climate of North and South Devon there is as marked a difference as between the cast of their scenery, the air of the former being keen and bracing, and its features romantic and picturesque, while in the latter the rich softness of the landscape harmonizes with the soft and soothing qualities of the climate. An omnibus runs twice a-week from Exmouth to Sidmouth.

About a mile from Exmouth is the secluded and picturesque village of Withycombe, and two miles further a fine old ruin, known as the Church of St. John in the Wilderness, will attract attention. It was built probably in the reign of Henry VII., but the old tower, one of the aisles, and part of the pulpit, now alone remain.

Sidmouth, eleven miles from Exmouth, is one of the most agreeably-situated little watering-places that can be imagined. It lies nestled in the bottom of a valley, opening to the sea between two lofty hills, 500 feet high, whence a most extensive and varied prospect of a beautiful part of the country is afforded on one side, and on the other a view of the open sea, bounded by a line of coast which stretches from Portland Isle, on the east, to Torbay, on the west. The summit of Peak Hill, on the west, is a lofty ridge, extending from north to south; that of Salcombe Hill, on the east, is much broader, and affords room for a race-course: both are highest towards the sea, where they terminate abruptly, forming a precipice of great depth, on the very verge of which the labourer may be seen guiding the plough several hundred feet perpendicular above the sea.

Although Sidmouth is irregularly built, its appearance is generally neat, occasionally highly picturesque, and in some parts positively handsome. The magnificent villas and cottages on the slopes are, almost without exception, surrounded with gardens; they command pleasing prospects, and are delightfully accessible by shady lanes, which wind up the hills, and intersect each other in all directions. Old local topographers speak of Sidmouth as a considerable fishing town, and as carrying on some trade with Newfoundland, but its harbour is now totally choked up with rocks, which at low water are seen covered with sea-weed, stretching away to a considerable distance from the shore. Its history may be very briefly recounted. The manor of Sidmouth was presented by William the Conqueror to the Abbey of St. Michel in Normandy, and was afterwards taken possession of by the Crown, during the wars with France, as the property of an alien foundation. It was afterwards granted to the monastery of Sion, with which it remained until the dissolution.

Hotels, boarding and lodging-houses are scattered over every part of Sidmouth and its vicinity, and tha local arrangements are throughout excellent. The public buildings are soon enumerated, for they only consist of a church, near the centre of the town, a very ordinary edifice of the fifteenth century, enlarged from time to time, a neat little chapel of ease, and a new market-house, built in 1840. Around here, and in the Fore-street, are some excellent shops, and the town is well supplied with gas and water. The seawall was completed in 1838. There was formerly an extensive bank of sand and gravel, thrown up by the sea, a considerable distance from the front of the town, but this being washed away in a tremendous storm, this defence was resorted to as a more permanent protection from the encroachment of the waves. It now forms an agreeable promenade, upwards of 1,700 feet long.

Sidmouth is sheltered by its hills from every quarter, except the south, where it is open to the sea, and has an atmosphere strongly impregnated with saline particles. Snow is very rarely witnessed, and in extremely severe seasons, when the surrounding hills are deeply covered, not a vestige, not a flake, will remain in this warm and secluded vale. The average mean winter temperature is from four to five degrees warmer than London, and eight degrees warmer than the northern watering-places.

“In Sidmouth and its neighbourhood” (says the author of the “Route Book of Devon”), “will be found an inexhaustible mine for the study and amusement of the botanist, geologist, or conchologist. A very curious relic of antiquity was found on the beach here about five years since—a Roman bronze standard or centaur, representing the centaur Chiron, with his pupil Achilles behind his back. The bronze is cast hollow, and is about nine inches in height. The left fore leg of the centaur is broken, and the right hind leg mutilated. The under part or pedestal formed a socket, by which the standard was screwed on a pole or staff.”

The present great features of interest in the neighbourhood are the landslips, ten miles distant, which, extending along the coast from Sidmouth to Lyme Regis, are most interesting to the geologist and the lover of nature.

This range of cliffs, extending from Haven to Pinhay, has been the theatre of two convulsions, or landslips, one commencing on Christmas-day, 1839, at Bendon and Dowlands, whereby forty-five acre of arable land were lost to cultivation—the other about five weeks after, on the 3rd of February, 1840, at Whitlands, little more than a mile to the eastward of the former, but much smaller in magnitude than the previous one.

There are one or two situations, says an excellent local authority, overlooking the more western or great landslip, which seem to be admired as peculiarly striking—the view of the great chasm, looking eastward, and the view from Dowlands, looking westward, upon the undercliff and new beach. The best prospect, perhaps, for seeing the extraordinary nature of the whole district, combined with scenery, is from Pinhay and Whitlands, and looking inland you see the precipitous yet wooded summit of the main land, and the castellated crags of the ivy-clad rocks, on the terraces immediately below, and the deep dingle which separates you from it. By turning a little to the north-east Pinhay presents its chalky pinnacles and descending terraces; whilst to the west the double range and high perpendicular cliffs of Rowsedown offer themselves. By turning towards the sea is embraced the whole range of the great bay of Dorset and Devon, extending from Portland on the east to Start Point on the west, bounded on either side by scenery of the finest coast character.

NORTH DEVON RAILWAY .

Exeter to Crediton, Barnstaple, & Bideford .

ST. CYRES (Newton St. Cyres).

Four miles from St. Cyres is Dunscomb, the seat of Sir T. Bodley, the founder of the Bodleian Library, Oxford.

CREDITON.

In the time of the Saxons, this was a place of great importance, and a bishopric until the year 1409, at which time the see was transferred to Exeter.

We next pass through the stations of COPPLESTONE, MORCHARD ROAD, LAPFORD, EGGESFORD, SOUTHMOLTON ROAD, PORTSMOUTH ARMS, and UMBERLEIGH, having no particular attraction, and arrive at

BARNSTAPLE.

BANKERS. —Drake, Gribble, and Co.; Branch of West of England and South Wales District Bank; National Provincial Bank of England.

This sea port town is situated on the river Taw, which is crossed by a bridge of sixteen arches. It first became a chartered town in the reign of Edward I., and was formerly surrounded by walls, and defended by a castle. It had also the privilege of a city and a harbour. The streets are well paved, and the houses built of stone. The principal manufactures are baise and woollens, chiefly for the Plymouth market. It has also a trade in bobbin net, paper, pottery, tanning, malt, and shipbuilding. Its population is 10,743.

ILFRACOMBE.

HOTELS. —The Clarence, situated at the higher end—and the Britannia and Packet Hotels, at the lower end of the town. There is a boarding house on the quay, and excellent private lodgings in every part of the town.

BANKERS. —Branch of the National Provincial Bank, and also of the Devon and Exeter Savings Bank.

ILFRACOMBE is a considerable sea port town, and now a fashionable watering place, on the north coast of Devon, near the mouth of the Bristol Channel. The harbour is considered the safest and most convenient along the whole coast. It is formed like a natural basin, and is almost surrounded by craggy heights that are overspread with foliage. The town is built partly at the bottom of a steep declivity, and partly up the side of it. New buildings and streets have been built, to afford accommodation to visitors. The terraces and public rooms, forming the centre of Coronation Terrace, have been constructed—the hot and cold baths at Crewkhorne have been formed, and a number of new houses erected on the eastern side, commanding an extensive prospect over the town and Bristol Channel to the Welsh coast.

BATHS. —The direct way to Crewkhorne is by North-field to the baths, and through the tunnel.

WALKS AND RIDES. —The walks in this neighbourhood are very beautiful, and afford delightful excursions and views.

Lynton and Lynmouth. —The scenery in the neighbourhood of these two places is “wild and beautiful—magnificent and lovely” to use the words of a handbook of Devon—the writer of which observes that it is quite beyond his powers to attempt a description of the scenery abounding in this fascinating neighbourhood. The accommodations for visitors are pretty nearly equal in each.

LYNTON HOTELS. —The Valley of the Rocks Hotel; the Castle Hotel; and Crown Inn.

There are in both places lodging houses innumerable. The tourist should proceed to the far-famed Valley of the Rocks on foot, along the Cliff Walk, whence the scenery is very fine. The view in the valley is exceedingly grand. The East and West Lyn Valleys are very beautiful also; but the tourist should employ a guide to accompany him on his first visit to these and other principal points of attraction in this picturesque neighbourhood.

BIDEFORD.

This is a small municipal borough, containing a population of 5,742, chiefly employed in shipbuilding, the manufacture of sail-cloth, cordage, pottery, and bone lace. It has a free grammar school, at which Z. Mudge, a native, was the master; and Shebbear, also a native, and author of Chrysal, &c., was educated. Hervey wrote part of his Meditations whilst curate at the church here. Strange, the philanthropist, who died of the plague in 1646, is buried here.

SOUTH DEVON RAILWAY.

Exeter to Torquay and Plymouth.

This part of the line is invested with additional interest, from the magnificent scenery which opens on each side as we proceed. There is scarcely a mile traversed which does not unfold some peculiar picturesque charm or new feature of its own to make the eye “dazzled and drunk with beauty.”

Once at Exeter, we have all the romantic allurements of the watering places of the west within our reach, where the possessor of robust health may find a fund of illimitable enjoyment in the rich bouquet that nature has spread before him on the freshening shores of Devon, and the invalid, those desired qualifications most conducive to a speedy and permanent convalescence.

On leaving Exeter we pass in rapid succession the stations of ST. THOMAS, EXMINSTER, and STAR CROSS, and in a very few minutes arrive at

DAWLISH.

DAWLISH, one of the stations of the South Devon Railway, is one of the prettiest places along the coast to pass a quiet summer month. Within the last century, rising from a mere fishing village to the dignity of a fashionable watering-place, it has become extended from the valley in which it lies to a considerable distance east and west; and though the incursion of the railroad has materially affected the fine expanse of the esplanade, it still possesses an excellent beach, bounded on the east by the Langstone Cliffs, and on the west by the rocks familiarly known by the appellation of the Parson and Clerk. The bathing is exceedingly good, and the facilities afforded for its enjoyment admirably arranged. The houses, built in handsome terraces along the sides of the hill and strand, and fronted by lawns and gardens, are very handsome and picturesque, the majority of them commanding an ample sea view. The parish church is at the upper end of the town, and was partly rebuilt in 1824, being rendered sufficiently commodious to accommodate a congregation of nearly two thousand people. There is a good organ, and a handsome window of stained glass in the interior.

The walks and drives in the vicinity of the town are remarkably pretty and interesting, the shady lanes at the back, winding through the declivity of the hills, affording an endless variety of inland and marine scenery. The climate is considered more genial even than that of Torquay; but so nearly do these places approximate that, for all general purposes, the remarks made upon the atmospherical characteristics of Torquay will be found equally applicable to those of Dawlish. Of late years, considerable improvement has been effected in the watching and lighting arrangements of the town, and some new buildings have added much to its external beauty. A new church in the Gothic style, St. Mark’s, has recently been erected. Circulating libraries and hotels, with the other usual accessories to a fashionable marine resort, are numerous and well provided, and the excursionist may here crown the enjoyments of the day with such a stroll on the beach by moonlight as can be obtained at few other places. One of the most delightful excursions in the neighbourhood is to Luscombe Park, the seat of —— Hoare, Esq. Good facilities for boating and fishing by applying to Coombe, a trustworthy old seaman.

TEIGNMOUTH.

TEIGNMOUTH, three miles from Dawlish, is recognised as the largest watering-place on the Devonian coast; but, from the irregularity of the streets, it is only in the esplanade that it can rival the others before named. A large export trade is carried on here, which gives a life and animation to the streets, and the bustle that occasionally prevails is often felt as an agreeable change to the monotony of a country residence. The air is more bracing and considerably colder than at Dawlish or Torquay, the town being much exposed to the east winds. In respect both to the excellence and accommodation of houses and apartments, there are few places more convenient for either a temporary or permanent residence than Teignmouth. An excellent supply of gas and water is enjoyed by the town, and all the comforts, with most of the luxuries, of life are easily and economically obtainable. There are two churches, situated respectively in East and West Teignmouth, the former being the more modern, and the latter—particularly as regards the interior—being the more interesting. The Assembly Rooms, with Subscription, Reading, Billiard, and News Rooms attached, furnish an agreeable source of amusement, and libraries are, with hotels, plentifully scattered through the town.

The river Teign, which here flows into the Channel, yields an abundant supply of fish, and the pleasure of a sail up the river to the interior is to be numbered among the allurements of a sojourn. A bridge, considered the longest in England, has been thrown across the Teign at this point, erected in 1827, at a cost of nearly £20,000. It is 1,672 feet in length, and consists of thirty-four arches, with a drawbridge over the deepest part of the channel, to allow free passage for vessels.

Near the mouth of the river is a lighthouse exhibiting a red light. The noble esplanade—or Teignmouth Den, as it is curiously styled—is a deservedly favourite promenade with all visitors, and the bold and towering cliffs that overhang the sea impart a most romantic aspect to the surrounding scenery. Excursions either on sea or land may be made from Teignmouth with the greatest facility of conveyance, and the environs are so extremely rich in natural and artificial attractions that they are almost inexhaustible. Three fairs are held in the months of January, February, and September, and an annual regatta takes place in August. The post-office is in Bank Street.

NEWTON JUNCTION.

(Newton Abbots).

FAIRS. — Last Wednesday in Feb., June 24th, first Wednesday in Sept., and Nov. 6th.

TORQUAY AND DARTMOUTH BRANCH.

TORQUAY.

TORQUAY has been somewhat characteristically described as the Montpelier of England, and truly it is deserving of the appellation. Situated in a small bay at the north-eastern corner of Torbay, the larger one, it is sheltered by a ridge of hills clothed by verdant woodland to the summit, and has thus an immunity from the cold northern and easterly winds, which few other spots so completely enjoy. From being a small village with a few scattered houses, chiefly occupied by officers’ wives, during the period of the last French war, when the Channel fleet were at anchor opposite, it has rapidly risen to a thriving populous town. To borrow the description of “The Route Book of Devon,” “the town, beginning with the lower tier, is built round the three sides of the strand or quay formed by the pier, and is composed chiefly of shops of the tradesmen, having a row of trees in front, planted between the flag pavement and the carriage way. The next tier, which is approached by a winding road at each end, and steps at other places, is comprised of handsome terraces; and the third, or highest, having a range of heautiful villas. The views from either of these levels are most enchanting, taking in the whole of the fine expansive roadstead of Torbay, within whose circumference numerous fleets can ride in safety, and where is always to be seen the trim yacht and pleasure-boat, the dusky sail of the Brixham trawler, or coasting merchantman, and frequently the more proud and spirit-stirring leviathan of the deep—’one of Britain’s best bulwarks—a man-of-war.’ To this also must be added, the beautiful country surrounding, commencing by Berry Head to the south, until your eye rests upon the opposite extremity, encircling within its scope the town of Brixham, the richly cultivated neighbourhood of Godrington and Paignton, with the picturesque church of the latter, and the sands rounding from it to the fine woods of Tor Abbey, and the town and pier immediately below. But it is not within the circle of the town of Torquay, such as we have described, that residences for strangers and invalids are exclusively to be found; the sides and summits of the beautiful valleys which open from it are dotted over with cottages, pavilions, and detached villas, to the extent of two or three miles, in every direction, to whicb the different roads diverge. About half a mile from Torquay, in the once secluded cove of Meadfoot, which is now being converted into a second town, terraces surpassing those in Torquay are already rising, and the forest of villas has connected the two towns. The sea views from these heights are magnificent, and the situation most attractive.” This, though it must be admitted a very alluring picture, falls far short of the reality, as it bursts upon the eye of the stranger who visits it for the first time. The groupings of the various villas, and the picturesque vistas which every turning in the road discloses, are enough to throw a painter into ecstacies, and render his portfolio plethoric with sketches. As before stated, the whole of the buildings are of modern origin. The pier, which forms a most agreeable promenade, was begun in 1804, and with the eastern pier, about forty feet wide, encloses a basin of some 300 feet long by 500 broad. This is the favourite lounge. Another on the Torwood-road is “The Public Gardens,” skilfully laid out, under the direction of the lord of the manor, who has placed about four acres of his estate at the disposal of the public. Passing up the new road, made under Walton Hill, to the Paignton Sands, we come to the remains of Tor Abbey, once more richly endowed than any in England, and now forming a portion of the delightful seat belonging to Mrs. Cary, a munificent patroness of the town. Between Torquay and Babbicombe is Kent’s Cavern, or Hole, consisting of a large natural excavation capable of being explored to the extent of 600 feet from the entrance. Dr. Buckland here discovered numerous bones of bears, hyenas, elephants, and other expatriated animals, now no longer happily found in this country. Amusements of evey kind are easily attainable. A theatre, concerts—held at Webb’s Royal Hotel—assemblies, libraries, news and billiard rooms, cater for every imaginable taste, and the Torquay Museum, belonging to the Natural History Society there established, has a most valuable collection, An excellent market, inns proportionate to the depths of every purse, and apartments to be obtained at reasonable rates, form not the least of the advantages to be derived from a protracted sojourn in this delightful region; but there is one greater attraction yet—its climate.

If those English invalids who, in search of a more congenial temperature, hastily enter on a long journey to some foreign country, and wilfully encounter all the inconveniences attending a residence there, were but to make themselves acquainted with the bland and beautiful climates which lie within an easy jaunt, and offer their own accustomed comforts in addition, how many a fruitless regret and unavailing repentance might hereafter be spared. To all suffering under pulmonary complaints, Torquay offers the greatest inducement for a trial of its efficacy as a place of winter residence. Dr. James Clark, in his excellent work on climate, says, “the general character of the climate of this coast is soft and humid. Torquay is certainly drier than the other places, and almost entirely free from fogs. This drier state of the atmosphere probably arises in part from the limestone rocks, which are confined to the neighbourhood of this place, and partly from its position between the two streams, the Dart and the Teign, by which the rain is in some degree attracted. Torquay is also remarkably protected from the north-east winds, the great evil of our spring climate; it is likewise well sheltered from the northwest. This protection from winds extends over a very considerable tract of beautiful country, abounding in every variety of landscape, so that there is scarcely a wind that blows from which the invalid will not be able to find a shelter for exercise either on foot or horseback. In this respect Torquay is most superior to any other place we have noticed. It possesses all the advantages of the south-western climate in the highest degree, and, with the exception of its exposure to the south-west gales, partakes less of the disadvantages of it than any other place having accommodation for invalids. The selection will, I believe, lie among the following places as winter and spring residences—Torquay, Undercliff, Hastings, and Clifton; and perhaps, in the generality of cases, will deserve the preference in the order stated.” So high an eulogium from so impartial and eminent an authority has seldom been bestowed. That it is well deserved, however, may be further seen from the meteorological observations registered, which give the mean winter temperature as about 46 degrees, being five degrees warmer than even Exeter. In summer, from the cooling influence of the sea breeze, the temperature, during the last five years, has never at the highest exceeded 80 degrees. So equable a temperature is, we believe, not to be met with elsewhere in Great Britain.

A delightful sandy beach, within ten minutes’ walk of the town, presents facilities for sea-bathing that render a plunge into the clear and sparkling bosom of the bay perfectly irresistible to all who have the taste for its enjoyment. Bathing-machines and baths of every description may be had between Torquay and its suburb Paignton, and as a brisk walk after so refreshing a submersion is the orthodox sequel, it may be some satisfaction for the pedestrian to know that the environs abound in those landscape-looking vistas seen through green lanes and over-arching woodland which form the true characteristic of Devonian scenery.

PAIGNTON STATION. —The situation of this place is really beautiful, commanding a central aspect of Torbay. Its picturesque church and the sands rounding from it to the fine woods of Tor Abbey, and the town and pier below it, form a pleasing coup d’œil.

BRIXHAM,

Close at hand, is chiefly noted for its extensive fisheries, employing more than two hundred vessels and fifteen hundred seamen. The weekly average amount received for fish is no less than £600. It was here that the Prince of Orange landed, and to commemorate the event a monument has been fixed in the centre of the fish-market, with a portion of the identical stone he first stepped upon inserted, and inscribed thus:—”On this stone, and near this spot, William Prince of Orange first set foot, on his landing in England, 4th of November, 1688.”

The railway being yet incomplete, omnibuses run in connection with the trains from Brixham Road and with the ferry across the river Dart to

DARTMOUTH.

This sea-port town is situated at the mouth of the river Dart, navigable about ten miles inland. Population, 4,444. Its harbour is very capacious, affording safe anchorage for five hundred large vessels at the same time. The coast scenery here is exceedingly romantic, and the excursion hence made to the source of the Dart is one of the great attractions with visitors.

South Devon Main Line continued.

TOTNESS.

FAIRS. —First Tuesday in every month, Easter Tuesday, May 12th, July 25th, and October 1st.

TOTNESS is situated on the river Dart. The ancient Roman fosseway forms a prominent feature in this town. There is a good deal of woollen cloth manufactured here, but the chief employment of the inhabitants is in the fishery. Its principal attractions are a Guildhall, assembly room and theatre, banks, libraries, &c.

After a very brief stoppage at BRENT and KINGSBRIDGE ROAD stations, we arrive at

IVY BRIDGE.

A charming spot in the valley of the Erme, much frequented in summer. The hills (1,100 feet high at one point) here begin to ascend towards Dartmoor, which lies to the north-west. It is a desolate tract of granite moorland, 20 miles long by 12 broad, once a forest, but now covered with peat. Copper and tin are worked. Some of its rugged peaks, here called tors, are 1,200 to 2,000 feet high; and under one is the Dartmoor Convict Prison, The Dart rises at Cranmere; on account of its striking scenery and fishing, it should be descended all the way to the fine port of Dartmouth.

PLYMOUTH.

FLY CHARGES. —For two persons, any distance, not exceeding one mile, 8d.; every additional half-mile, 4d. For three or four persons per mile, or raction of a mile. 1s.; every additional half-mile, 6d. No fare, however, to be less than 1s.

BANKERS. —Branch of the Bank of England; Harris & Co.; Devon and Cornwall Banking Co.

A borough, first class fortress, and naval dock-yard in Devonshire, at the mouth of the Channel, 246 miles from London by the Great Western Railway. The dockyard and harbour are at Devonport, the victualling office is at Stonehouse, and there are other establishments in the neighbourhood, but Plymouth is the common name for all. Two members. Population 62,599. The view from the Hoe, or cliffy height on which the Citadel is planted, commands a magnificent prospect of the sound or outer anchorage, Mounts Batten and Edgecumbe hedging it in on both sides, and the breakwater which protects the main entrance. Two rivers run into the sound, the Plym on the east side, and the Tamar on the west, or Devonport. The mouth of the first, on which Plymouth stands, widens into a deep inlet called the Catwater. Close to the town is Sutton Pool, a tide-harbour in which vessels of various tonnage lie. About 35,000 tons of shipping are registered at this port, and the total amount of customs may be stated at £10,000. It is a convenient starting place for emigrants, for whom a depôt has been established.

There is a tower, and some other remains of a castle, on the Hoe, which was first regularly fortified in 1670. Here are the new botanic gardens. The climate of this part of Devonshire is somewhat moist, but it keeps up a perpetual verdure to make amends.

Some of the best buildings are designed by Foulston, who died in 1842. This architect built the Public Library, in 1812; the Exchange, in 1813; and the Athenæum, in 1819. But his first and largest works were the Assembly Rooms, Royal Hotel, and Theatre, in one immense block, in the Ionic style, 270 feet by 220; built 1811, for the corporation. Foulston also restored the old Parish Church of St. Andrew, in which is a monument to C. Matthews, the comedian. Its bell tolls the curfew couvrez feu, or, “put out fire,” every night, striking according to the days of the month. At the Guildhall is a portrait of Sir F. Drake, its most eminent native, who was at the cost of cutting a stream, 24 miles long, from Dartmoor, to supply the Town Reservoir. Christ Church is a modern Gothic church, by Wightwick, who also designed the new Post Office, in the Grecian style.

At the western extremity of the town is Mill Bay, where Docks have been formed for the Great Western Packet Station. On the side of Stonehouse (which, though one town with Plymouth, is part of Devonport borough) are the Naval and Military Hospital, the Marine Barracks, and the Victualling Office, the last a solid granite quadrangle, which cost one and a-half million sterling. It occupies a site of 15 acres, and includes biscuit baking machinery, cooperage, and immense provision stores. Line-of-battle ships can come alongside the quay.

EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. —These are almost endless in variety, and equally beautiful. The visitor will be soon made acquainted with clotted cream, junket, white pot, squab pie, and other west country mysteries, and the unbounded hospitality of the people. Within a few miles are the following:—Mount-Edgecumbe (on the Cornwall side of the Sound), the seat of Earl Mount-Edgecumbe, in a beautiful park, overlooking Plymouth, the breakwater, sea, &c. A fort in the Sound was first built when the Armada invaded these shores; and it was from this port that Howard of Effingham, Drake, and Hawkins, sailed out to attack it. Deus afflavit, et dissipantur; and where is Spain now! Maker Church, 300 or 400 feet high, is the best point for enjoying the prospect. Below is the Ram Head of the ancient geographers, and still called Rame, and Whitsand Bay, a rare spot for seaweed and shells. Fine creeks and bays hence to the Land’s End. On the Cornish side, also, are — East Anthony, the old seat of the Carews; Thancks, Dowager Lady Graves, and St. German’s Norman Church, near Port Eliot, the seat of Earl St. Germans. It contains part of a priory founded by King Athelstane. On the Devonshire side of Plymouth are—Saltram, Earl Morley’s seat; good pictures by Reynolds, &c. Boringdon was their old seat, higher up the Catwater. Newnham Park, G. Strode, Esq. Plympton (5 miles), a decayed borough, the birthplace of Sir J. Reynolds, whose portrait, by himself, is in the Guildhall. Traces of a castle. Yealmpton, Modbury, Kingsbridge, &c., are on the various creeks of South Devon, which increase in beauty towards Dartmouth and Torquay; most of the streams come from Dartmoor. Fruit, &c., are abundant in this mild and fertile region.

Up the Tamar. — This beautiful stream divides be two counties for some miles. Past St. Budeaux (on the right, or Devonshire side), a fine spot, opposite Saltash. Then Landulph (on the left) where Theodore Palæolipus, the survivor of the last Emperor of Constantinople, is buried. The tomb was opened about 1830. One of his daughters married an Arundell, of Clifton, an old seat here. Lead mines here, and at Beer Ferris (Devon side), which is charmingly placed on the corner where the Tavy turns off, overlooking both rivers. The Tavy runs past Buckland Abbey (fragments of a priory), the seat of Sir T. T. Drake, Bart., a descendant of the great navigator, who was born at Tavistock. This is the centre of an important mining district, with some remains of an abbey, belonging to the Bedford family. Following the Tamar, you come to Pentilie (J. Coryton, Esq.), and Cothele, both on the Cornwall side. The latter seat, for centuries in the Edgecumbe family, is one of the most interesting in England, for its architecture, furniture, and ornaments, all genuine relies of a mediæval age. Callington, to the left, near St. Kitt’s Hill, the granite peak of Hengstown Down, 1,067 feet high, from the summit of which there is a famous prospect. The river winds hence to Launceston.

CORNWALL.

CORNWALL, from its soil, appearance, and climate, is one of the least inviting of the English counties. A ridge of bare and rugged hills, intermixed with bleak moors, runs through the midst of its whole length, and exhibits the appearance of a dreary waste. The most important objects in the history of this county are its numerous mines, which for centuries have furnished employment to thousands of its inhabitants; and, the trade to which they give birth, when considered in a national point of view, is of the greatest relative consequence. In a narrow slip of land, where the purposes of agriculture would not employ above a few thousand inhabitants, the mines alone support a population estimated at more than 80,000 labourers, exclusive of artizans. The principal produce of the Cornish mines is tin, copper, and lead. The strata in which these metals are found extend from the Land’s End, in a direction from west to east, entirely along the country into Devonshire. Nearly all the metals are found in veins or fissures, the direction of which is generally east and west. The annual value of the copper mines has been estimated at £350,000. Logan stones deserve to be mentioned amongst the curiosities of this county. They are of great weight, and poised on the top of immense piles of rocks.

CORN WALL RAILWAY.

Plymouth to Truro.

A place of great importance, partly overlooking the Sound (where it is defended by Mount Wise battery), and the anchorage at the Tamar’s mouth, called Hamaoze. Here is the royal Dockyard, on a space of 71 acres, inclusive of 5 more at the Gun Wharf (built by Sir J. Vanburgh). The Dockyard includes various docks and building slips, storehouses, a rope house 200 fathoms long, blacksmiths’ shop, &c. Above this is a floating bridge to Torpoint and the splendid Steam Docks and factory at Keyham, which occupy another 75 acres. There are two basins, 600 to 700 feet long, besides docks, all faced with solid stone, and built at a total cost of one and a half million, along with foundries, smithery, &c. One wrought-iron caisson is 82 feet long, and 13 feet thick. Devonport has a population of 64,783, and returns two members. A pillar opposite the Town Hall was placed there in 1824, when the name was altered from Plymouth Dock. There are various barracks near Mount Wise, where the Governor of the district and the Port Admiral reside.

Plymouth Sound, and its three harbours, would hold, it is calculated, 2,000 vessels, such is its extent. One of the most striking scenes it has witnessed in modern times was the appearance of Napoleon here, in 1815, on board the Bellerophon, after his attempted escape to America. Across the mouth (having entrances on each side), 3 miles from the town, is the famous Breakwater, first begun in 1812, by Rennie. It is a vast stone dyke, gradually made by sinking 2½ million tons of stone, from the neighbouring cliffs; about 10 or 12 yards wide at the top, and spreading to 70 or 80 yards at the bottom—the side next the Atlantic being the most sloping. Its entire length is 1,700 yards, nearly a mile; but it is not straight, as the two ends bend inwards from the middle part, which is 1,000 yards long. A lighthouse stands at the west corner, 63 feet high. Several tremendous storms have tested its solidity and usefulness; once inside this artificial bulwark, the smallest craft is as safe as if it were on the slips of the Dockyard.

The Eddystone Lighthouse is ten miles from it, on a granite rock in the open channel. It was erected by Mr. Smeaton, and is a striking instance of human ingenuity, which has hitherto baffled all the fury of the elements. The first stone was laid on the 1st of June, 1757. Mr. Smeaton conceived the idea of his edifice from the waist or bole of a large spreading oak. Considering the figure of the tree as connected with its roots, which lie hid below ground, Mr. S. observed that it rose from the surface with a large swelling base, which at the height of one diameter, is generally reduced by an elegant concave curve to a diameter less by at least one-third, and sometimes to half its original base. Hence he deducted what the shape of a column of the greatest stability ought to be to resist the action of external violence, when the quantity of matter of which it is to be composed is given. To expedite the erection of the building, the stones were hewn and fitted to each other on shore, and after every precaution to ensure security had been taken, the work was completed in October, 1759. It has proved highly beneficial to all nations, which fact was strikingly exemplified by Louis XIV. France being at war with England while the lighthouse was being proceeded with, a French privateer took the men at work on the Eddystone rocks, together with their tools, and carried them to France, the captain expecting a reward for the achievement. While the captives lay in prison the transaction came to the knowlege of the French monarch, who immediately ordered the prisoners to be released and the captors to be confined in their stead, declaring that though he was at war with England he was not so with mankind. He therefore directed the men to be sent back to their work with presents.

The form of the present lighthouse is octagonal, and the framework is composed of cast iron and copper. The outside and basement of the edifice are formed of granite, that kind of stone being more competent than any other to resist the action of the sea. Round the upper store-room, upon the course of granite under the ceiling, is the following inscription:—

The number of keepers resident at the lighthouse was at first only two, but an incident of a very extraordinary and distressing nature which occurred showed the necessity of an additional hand. One of the two keepers took ill and died. The dilemma in which this occurrence left the survivor was singularly painful: apprehensive that if he tumbled the dead body into the sea, which was the only way in his power to dispose of it, he might be charged with murder, he was induced for some time to let the corpse lie, in hopes that the attending-boat might be able to land, and relieve him from the distress he was in. By degrees the body became so putrid that it was not in his power to get quit of it without help, for it was near a month before the boat could effect a landing.

Since the above occurrence three men have been stationed at Eddystone, each of whom has, in the summer, a month’s leave to visit his friends, and are provided with food and all other necessaries by a boat appointed for that purpose; but they are always stocked with salt provisions, to guard against the possibility of want, as in winter it sometimes happens that the boat cannot approach the rock for many weeks together.

The range of the enjoyments of the keepers is confined within very narrow limits. In high winds so briny an atmosphere surrounds this gloomy solitude, from the dashing of the waves, that a person exposed to it could hardly draw his breath. At these dreadful intervals the forlorn inhabitants keep close quarters, and are obliged to live in darkness, listening to the howling storm, excluded in every emergency from the hope of human assistance, and without any earthly comfort but that which results from their confidence in the strength of the building in which they are immured. In fine weather they just scramble about the edge of the rock when the tide ebbs, and amuse themselves with fishing; and this is the only employment they have, except that of trimming their nightly fires. Singular as it may appear, there are yet facts which lead us to believe it possible for these men to become so weaned from society as to become enamoured of their situation. Smeaton, in speaking of one of these light-keepers, says, “In the fourteen years that he had been here he was grown so attached to the place, that for the two summers preceding he had given up his turn on shore to his companions, and declared his intention of doing the same the third, but was over-persuaded to go on shore and take his month’s turn. He had always in this service proved himself a decent, sober, well-behaved man; but he had no sooner got on shore than he went to an alehouse and got intoxicated. This he continued the whole of his stay, which being noticed, he was carried, in this intoxicated state, on board the Eddystone boat, and delivered in the lighthouse, where he was expected to grow sober; but after lingering two or three days, he could by no means be recovered.” In another place, he says, “I was applied to by a philosopher kind of a man to be one of the light-keepers, observing, that being a man of study and retirement, he could very well bear the confinement that must attend it. I asked him if he knew the salary? He replied no; but doubted not it must be something very handsome. When I told him it was £25 a-year, he replied he had quite mistaken the business; he did not mean to sell his liberty for so low a price; he could not have supposed it less than three times as much.” Another man, a shoemaker, who was engaged to be the light-keeper, when in the boat which conveyed him thither, the skipper addressing him, said, “How happens it, friend Jacob, that you should choose to go and be cooped up here as a light-keeper, when you can on shore, as I am told, earn half-a-crown and three shillings a-day in making leathern hose (leathern pipes so called), whereas the light-keeper’s salary is but £25 a-year, which is scarce ten shillings a-week?” “Every one to his taste,” replied Jacob promptly; “I go to be a light-keeper because I don’t like confinement.” After this answer had produced its share of merriment, Jacob explained himself by saying that he did not like to be confined to work.

From Devonport we resume our journey, passing the stations of SALTASH, ST. GERMANS, MENHENIOT, LISKEARD, DOUBLEBOIS, and BODMIN ROAD.

LOSTWITHIEL.

The only features of attraction here are the parish church and the ruins of a building called the palace. The former was built in the 14th century, has a fine spire and a curious font. The latter is said to have been the residence of the Dukes of Cornwall.

ST. AUSTELL, or St. Austle

a Large mining town in West Cornwall, near the sea, with several important mines round it in the granite, producing tin, copper, nickel, with clay, and china stone, for the Staffordshire potteries. Good building stone is also quarried. Graw or stratum is the most valuable product, found in round masses, and smelted in the neighbourhood. The chief mines are Polgooth, Crinnis, Pentewan, &c.; there are only one or two of copper. Tram rails have been made to the little harbour of Pentewan, and Charlestown, in the bay, to ship the ores. Among the buildings are several chapels, a stannary (or tin) hall, and an ancient stone church with a good tower, on which, and over the south porch of the church, are various carvings. Population, 3,825.

The tin mines which were worked in Cornwall by the roving Phœnicians long before Christ, yield here, and at St. Agnes, &c., about 5,000 tons, worth £70 a ton, yearly. Copper, now the staple article of the county, used to be thrown aside by the tinners, till the beginning of the last century. Polgooth, a tin mine, two miles south-west, in a barren spot, is now almost worked out; formerly it was worth £20,000 a year. It is 120 fathoms deep. Crinnis, which was worth between £80,000 or £90,000, is still very productive in copper. At Carclaze the tin is worked in the light granite of the downs, by lateral shafts, open to the day.

GRAMPOUND ROAD. —About two miles from this station is the rotten borough of Grampound, one of the many existing in Cornwall (which, being a crown duchy, the court influence was the paramount), but disfranchised for gross corruption, in 1841.

TRURO.

FAIRS. — Wednesday after Mid-Lent, Wednesday in Whitsun week, November 19th, December 8th.

TRURO, the mining capital of Cornwall, and a parliamentary borough (two members). Its population is 11,337 within the borough bounds, which enclose a space of 1,200 acres, at the head of a creek of the Fal (where the rivers Kenwyn and Allen fall in), covered by foundries, blast houses, pottery and tin works, &c. When the tide is up the creek looks like a fine lake, two miles long. Like most Cornish towns, Truro originated in a castle built by the Earls of Cornwall, on Castle Hill. It is now the principal coinage town in the Duchy, where the metal is stamped, previous to being exported. Bar tin is sent to the Mediterranean, &c., and ingots to the East Indies, while much of the copper ore is taken across to Swansea.

The principal streets diverge from the market place, near which is St. Mary’s Church, a handsome later Gothic edifice, with a tower. It contains various monuments to old Truro families. There are two other churches, besides one at Kenwyn, north of the town, near the county infirmary. The Coinage Hall is an old building, formerly used as a stannary parliament, i.e., a parliament of tinners (stannum, tin). Town Hall, built in 1615. Theatre and Assembly Room, at High Cross. A good museum at the Royal Institute of Cornwall. Attempts have been made to establish a mining college, chiefly by the liberal exertions of Sir C. Lemon, after whom Lemon Street, on the Falmouth Road, takes its name. At the top of it is a pillar to the African travellers, Richard and J. Lander, natives of Truro, the latter of whom perished on his third trip to that insalubrious coast.

Within a short distance are the following places, mostly seated on the Fal or its branches. Polwhele was the seat of Polwhele the antiquary, a member of an ancient Cornish family. “By Tre, Pol, and Pen, you may know the Cornishmen,” is a well known rhyme. Pencarlenich, seat of J. Vivian, Esq.,—another old name. Tregothnan, the seat of the Earl of Falmouth, a beautiful spot. Here Admiral Boscawen was born, in 1711. Trewarthenich, another fine seat, near Tregony, Trelissich, on the west side of the Fal. Carclew, near Penryn, the seat of Sir C. Lemon, Bart. Enys, of J. Enys Esq. Trefusis, beautifully placed opposite Falmouth, is the seat of Lord Clinton.

Falmouth was formerly an important mail packet station. Below it are Pendennis Castle and St. Anthony’s Light, on the opposite sides of the entrance. The former, built by Henry VIII., was famous in the civil war for its resistance to parliament, against whose forces it held out till 1646. The richest mines are in the granite moorlands to the north, near St. Agnes, &c., or in the neighbourhood of the rail to Penzance. At Perranzabulae, 5 miles from Truro, an ancient British church was uncovered, 25 feet in 1835, by shifting sands (which in former times overwhelmed everything on this side of the coast), and gave occasion to Mr. Trelawney’s work, the “Lost Church Found,” in which he shows what the primitive English church was before corrupted by Popery. This and other parishes were named from the famous St. Tiran, the patron of tinners, who, like many other eminent preachers of that age, came from Ireland. The story is that he sailed over on a mill stone, but perhaps this was the name or the ship. Near St. Agnes Beacon is a camp called Picran Round, Chacewater, Wheal Towan, Wheal. Leisure, Pen Hale, Perran St. George (all near Perran Perth, the last 100 fathoms deep); and Buduick mine may be visited, Polperro, Wheal Kitty, Wheal Alfred and others, most of them indicative of the arbitary names conferred on mines by the lively fancy of the Cornishmen. Population, 4,953.

WEST CORNWALL RAILWAY

Truro to Hayle, Penzance. &c .

CHACEWATER AND SCORRIER GATE STATIONS .

REDRUTH.

REDRUTH, is a market town, in the county of Cornwall. It consists of one long street, from which branch several smaller ones. This town derives nearly all its importance from its central situation with respect to the neighbouring mines, the working of which has increased the population to treble its original number, as nearly all the commercial transactions of the miners are carried on here.

On leaving Redruth, and passing the unimportant stations of POOL, CAMBORNE, GWINEAR ROAD, and HAYLE, we arrive at

ST. IVES ROAD.

The town of St. Ives has a population of 10,353, chiefly depending on the coasting trade and pilchard fishery. Treganna Castle, the seat of Mr. Stephens, occupies a lofty situation outside the town, and commands an extensive prospect.

PENZANCE.

FAIRS. —Thursday before Advent, Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and Corpus Christi day.

This flourishing port is at the farther end of Cornwall, on the west side of Mount’s Bay, at the terminus of the West Cornwall Railway. It is a municipal, but not a parliamentary borough, with a population of 9,414. Tin, copper, china, clay, granite, and pilchards, are the principal articles of trade here. The harbour, enclosed by a pier, 600 feet long, is shallow, but it is easy to reach and get out of. All the best shops are in the Market Place, where the four principal streets centre. The stannary court for the hundred of Penwith is abolished. An excellent Geological Society was founded in 1813; and is enriched by a full collection of specimens obtained by Dr. Boase, from every corner of the county, and carefully arranged. The churches and houses are of stone. Madron is the mother church. Sir Humphrey Davy, the great chemist, was born at Penzance, 1778; after serving his apprenticeship to a chemist here, he went to assist Dr. Beddoes at the Pneumatic Institution. Penzance is a cheap and healthy place for a resident. The soil in the neighbourhood is light and rich, from the granite dust at the bottom, and produces uncommonly heavy crops of potatoes, the returns being 300 to 600 bushels an acre. Sand, shells, and pilchards, are used to manure it.

Mount’s Bay, which is spread out before the town, is 18 miles wide at the mouth, from the Lizard Point on the east, to the Rundlestone on the west side. The shore is low and uninteresting; but what geologists call raised beaches are seen. St. Michael’s Mount, the most striking object in it, and to which it owes its name, is a conspicuous granite rock, four miles east of Penzance, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, off the town of Marazion. It is reached (at low water only) by a causeway, and stands 250 feet high. A few fishermen’s cottages are round the base, and at the top are remains of a priory, founded before the Conquest, and for ages resorted to by pilgrims, whose rock is at the end of the causeway. Here the wife of the Pretender, Perkin Warbeck, found refuge in 1497. There are traces of a great variety of minerals; and it commands by far the best prospect of the bay. In olden times it was called Ictes, and was a tin depôt. The flow of pilgrims to this point was the making of Marazion, which formerly possessed a good trade, but is now an insignificant town. Marghasion is its Cornish name, indicative probably of its position, and its being once held by Sion Abbey. Sometimes it is called Market-Jew, which is a corruption of another Cornish name, Marghasjewe.

Penzance is between the two districts which hem in the opposite sides of the bay, and form the tail end, as it were, of Cornwall, Kerrien towards the Lizard, and Penwith to the Land’s End. Both possess a coast not very lofty, but broken and dangerous. They differ in their geological character—the Lizard district being mostly slaty or “killas,” and serpentine; and that of the Penwith, round the Land’s End, granite, here called moorstone. Penwith signifies, in the expressive old British language, the “point to the left,” as it looks like a tract almost cut off from the main land. It is much the richest in minerals; though at one time Kerrien was remarkable for its produce in this respect. The surface of both is a heathy moorland, with little pleasant hollows here and there. In Penwith, eight or ten miles from Penzance, are the following places:—The Guskus Mine, near St. Hilary; Wheal Darlington Mine, near Penzance; and the Alfred Mine, near Hayle. Wheal (or Huel) is the common name for a mine, and synonymous with the English Wheel, into which, being worked on the joint stock or “cost book” system, every shareholder puts a spoke, all directed to one centre. Trereiffe is the seat of the Le Grices; Trengwainton, of Mr. Davy. Near Ludgvan, (which was the rectory of Borlase, the county historian), is a large camp, 145 yards across. In the neighbourhood of Madron, or Maddern, are a pillar stone or two, and Lanyon Cromlech, which consists of a top stone or “quoet,” nearly 50 feet girth, resting on four other stones. St. Buryan Church is a granite building, on a point of the moorland, 47 feet high; it was once collegiate, and first founded by King Athelstane. Here, too, are various curiosities, as the Merry Maidens, Boscawen-Oon, the Pipers, &c., generally styled “Druid,” but in many cases the result of natural causes. A Cromlech at Boskenna, near the Camp and Lamorna Cave. Boscawen-Oon is a circle of 19 stones, near the church, and gives name to the family of the Earl of Falmouth, one of whose members was the famous admiral. St. Levan is close to a wild part of the coast. A little distance to the east is Treeren-Dinas, a camp in which stands the best Logan Stone (rocking stone) in Cornwall; it weighs 90 tons, but it is moved with a touch. One day in 1824 it was overturned by Lieut. Goldsmith and his crew, in consequence of a bet; but the people round were so highly indignant that he was compelled to replace it, which he did in a very ingenious manner, having, at the instance of Davies Gilbert, Esq., the President of the Royal Society, obtained help from the Plymouth Dockyard. Tol Peden Penwith, as the extreme south point of the hundred is called, has a vast hole in the granite cliffs, through which the sea dashes up with a tremendous roar. A dangerous rock called the Rundlestone lies about one mile off it, marked by a buoy; and the dark Wolfrock further out. The effects of the Atlantic and the weather upon the hardest rocks (as granite is supposed to be) are visible all along this broken and disintegrated coast—a wild desolate region to the eye, but extremely healthful and inspiriting. Rare shells, sea weeds, and plants, should be looked for. The Land’s End, the ancient Antivestaeum, is in St. Sennen, the most westerly parish in England—being, in fact, in a line with Dublin and the Western Islands of Scotland. On one side of the village signpost is inscribed, “The first Inn in England” (if you come from the west), and the other, “The last Inn in England.” Sweetbriar grows here wild. Sennen Cove is a little creek in Whitsand Bay. Longships Reefs, half a mile long, has a lighthouse on it, 83 feet high. Some miles out are the Seven Stones light vessels. About 25 miles south-west are the Scilly Islands, a group of 50 or 60 granite islands and reefs, with an industrious population of 2,594. They belong to the Godolphin family. St. Mary’s is the largest. Here Sir Cloudesley Shovel, and four ships with 2,000 men were wrecked in a dreadful storm in 1707. A lighthouse has been fixed on St. Agnes since this fearful event. Formerly there were fewer islands than at present, and it is said that a vast tract between them and the mainland was overwhelmed many centuries ago. That there is some truth in these traditions is evident, from what we see going on at the present time.

St. Just (pronounced St. Juest, to distinguish it from another near Truro, which is sounded St. Jeast, near Cape Cornwall), is rich in minerals, Druid circles, and other objects of interest. Here are the Levant and Botallic mines, both prosperous concerns, and finding tin and copper. Botallick Mine is worked in the very face of the cliffs, and runs out 100 fathoms under the sea. It was descended by the Due de Nemours, Prince de Joinville, and their party, in 1852. The Mayne or Maen stone is pointed out as that on which the Saxon King, Ethelbert, and six other kings, dined, in the year 600. Round Gurnet’s Head and Zennor are various Druid stones. Towed-nack belongs to the Gilberts, of Tredrea, and is part of the borough of St. Ives —a fishing port, on a wide, sandy bay. At the top of it is Hayle and its foundries.

In the district of Kerrier, which offers much to interest the naturalist, in particular, are the following—Trevena Mine is near; Godolphin, also, the old seat of that ancient family (now represented by the Duke of Leeds), is on a hill, in the same parish, with a valuable mine at Wheal Vor.

Helston, taking its name from the marshy tract between it and the sea, is a parliamentary borough, but not otherwise remarkable. Meneage was the old name for the corner of Cornwall (down to the Lizard). it has good pasture, and a breed of small moorland horses. The Goonhills Downs run through the middle. Wallowarren, the seat of Sir R. Vyvyan, Bart., is near to Marogan’s old church. The metal Titanium was first discovered at Manaccan on Helford Creek. St. Keverne was the birth-place of Incledon, the singer. Off the coast are the Manacle Rocks. The cliffs here are serpentine, soapstone, &c., covered with a profusion of heath, and extend past Black Head to the Lizard. This headland, which homeward bound ships from the westward always try to get sight of, is 18 miles from Penzance, and low, but pointed, whence the ancient name, Ocrinum, a corruption of Acritum. A little northwest of it is Kynance Cove, a place frequently visited by parties, on account of its high serpentine and soapstone cliffs, which exhibit the most beautiful colours, and contains little veins of minerals and spars. Vases and other ornaments are made from this stone. Population, 3,843.

Hensbarrow, six miles north, is one of the loftiest of the Cornish Downs, 1,029 feet high. Near Charlestown on the bay, is Duyorth, a seat belonging to the Rashleighs, of Menabilley. It is well planted. Penrice is another seat, in a sheltered spot, favourable for cultivation. Further down the coast is Megavissy, an important fishing town in the pilchard season, but so filthy, that it is a very hot-bed of disease when the cholera is abroad. In 1849, its ravages were so great that the population were turned out to camp it under tents, while their houses were being cleaned and sweetened. Till lately pilchards paid tithe to the vicar. They are caught by the seine or net. Heligan, near this, belongs to the Tremaynes.

SOUTH WALES RAILWAY.

Gloucester to Newport.

This line of railway affords great facilities to tourists and lovers of the picturesque for visiting the beautiful scenery of Wales.

Gloucester is now the central point of communication between the north and the south, the east and the west of the kingdom. From Plymouth there is an uninterrupted run through Bristol and Gloucester into the farthest points of the north where the iron road has yet pierced its way.

Upon starting, the line proceeds over an embankment and viaduct over the low meadows near the Severn, and then passes over the two bridges, and continues along the west bank of the Severn. The beautiful spire of Higham new church appears in view, and is quickly left behind, and in a few minutes the train reaches the first station on the line, which is called “ OAKLE STREET,” a rural spot, convenient for Churcham.

GRANGE COURT JUNCTION. —Westbury-upon-Severn, 1 mile distant. The trains of the Hereford, Ross, and Gloucester Railway turn off at this station to the right.

HEREFORD, ROSS, AND GLOUCESTER.

Gloucester to Ross and Hereford.

LONGHOPE (late Hopebrook).

ROSS.

MARKET DAY. —Thursday. FAIRS. —Thursday after March 10th, Ascension Day, June 21st, July 20th, Thursday after October 10th, December 11th.

Ross has a population of 3,715; is situated on a rocky elevation on the east bank of the Wye. In the church are several monuments of the Rudhall family, one of whom opposed Cromwell in his siege of Hereford. There is also one of Mr. J. Kyrle, the celebrated “Man of Ross,” who was interred here. From the churchyard are some very beautiful views. Ross has great attractions during the summer months. Goodrich Court, the seat of Sir S. R. Meyrick, in the neighbourhood, is visited for its armoury. It may be seen on application.

	Miles.
Barnsley Park	5
Beggar’s Down	6
Bownham House	8
Cherrington Grove	7
Cirencester Abbey	0½
Down House	3¼
Edgeworth	5½
Foss Cross	6
Hill House	4
Lypiatt Park	8
Malmesbury	8
Misserden Park	7
Northleach	10
Penbury Park	4
Rendcomb Park	5
Rendon Park	5
Sapperton Park	3
Stroud	2

	Miles.
Bownham House	2
Creed Place	6¼
Easington	4½
Frodmore	2
Haresfield	4½
Hill House	5
Hock’s House	6
Horns, The	1
Hyde Court	3
King’s Stanley	3
* Lypiatt Park	2
Minchinhampton	3
Misserden Park	5
Nimpsfield	4
Painswick	3
Penbury Park	6
Quedgeley House	6
Rodborough	1
Rudge	2¾
Stancomb Cross	3
Standish House	4½
Tuffley Court	5
Whitcomb Park	6
Woodchester	2

	Miles.
Badgworth	3
Barnwood	0½
Brookworth	3
Churchdown	2½
Elmore Court	5
Forton	3
Hatfield Court	5
High Grove	3
Highnam Park	4
Longford	1½
Maizmore	3
Quedgeley	3
Rudford	1
Sandhurst	3
Studgrive	2
Upton	3
Whaddon	3
Wooten	1

BRADSHAW’S DESCRIPTIVE RAILWAY HAND-BOOK

OF

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.

SECTION II.

GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY .

London to Slough.

HANWELL.

SOUTHALL.

WEST DRAYTON.

UXBRIDGE (Branch).

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE,

LANGLEY.

SLOUGH.

WINDSOR BRANCH.

Slough to Windsor.

ETON.

Great Western Main Line continued.

Slough to Maidenhead.

MAIDENHEAD.

WYCOMBE AND THAME BRANCH.

Maidenhead to Wycombe and Thame.

HIGH WYCOMBE.

BERKSHIRE.

Great Western Main Line continued. Maidenhead to Reading.

TWYFORD (Junction).

HENLEY BRANCH.

HENLEY.

Great Western Main Line continued.

READING.

BASINGSTOKE BRANCH.

Reading to Basingstoke.

BASINGSTOKE,

HUNGERFORD BRANCH, AND BERKS AND HANTS.

Reading to Hungerford and Devizes.

ALDERMASTON.

WOOLHAMPTON.

NEWBURY.

HUNGERFORD.

Great Western Main Line continued. Reading to Didcot.

PANGBOURNE.

WALLINGFORD.

DIDCOT (Junction).

OXFORD BRANCH.—Didcot to Oxford.

CULHAM (Junction)

ABINGDON (Branch).

OXFORDSHIRE.

OXFORD,

OBJECTS OF NOTICE NEAR OXFORD .

Great Western Main Line continued. Didcot to Swindon Junction.

STEVENTON.

WANTAGE.

FARINGDON ROAD.

SHRIVENHAM.

WILTSHIRE,

SWINDON JUNCTION .

CHELTENHAM BRANCH .

Swindon to Cirencester, Stroud, Gloucester, and Cheltenham.

PURTON .

GLOUCESTERSHIRE,

TETBURY ROAD (Tetbury).

CIRENCESTER— (Branch).

Cheltenham Branch continued.

BRIMSCOMB.

STROUD.

STONEHOUSE.

GLOUCESTER.

CHELTENHAM.

Great Western Main Line continued. Swindon to Chippenham.

WOOTTON BASSET.

CHIPPENHAM.

WILTS, SOMERSET, AND WEYMOUTH.

Chippenham to Frome, Yeovil, Dorchester, and Weymouth.

MELKSHAM.

DEVIZES BRANCH.

Melksham to Devizes.

DEVIZES (a telegraph station).

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

TROWBRIDGE.

BRADFORD (Branch),

Wilts, Somerset, &c., Main Line continued.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Maidenhead to Reading.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Reading to Didcot.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Didcot to Swindon Junction.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Swindon to Chippenham.

Great Western Main Line continued.
Chippenham to Yatton.

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.
Highbridge to Durston Junction.

Bristol and Exeter Main Line continued.
Durston to Tiverton and Exeter.