Note to Readers: This is as faithful a reproduction of BRADSHAW’S HANDBOOK 1863 as is practicable in this electronic format. Grammatical and typographical irregularities have been deliberately retained from that original, to give as close an approximation as possible of the Victorian reader’s experience of the book.
PROCEEDING due north, by the river Swift, we pass the foot of the mound of Cester-over, supposed to have been a Roman station; then we have Newnham Paddox on our left, and passing over the Old Watling Street, which here divides the counties of Warwick and Leicester, we enter the latter and stop at
POPULATION , 600.
A telegraph station.
Near three miles to the right is the old town of Lutterworth, chiefly interesting for its church, in which the great Reformer, Wickliffe, preached against the “Man of Sin,” and spread the Word of God in a language that could be understood by the people. Here he died and was buried (1384), but he only lay in peace 50 years—his body was then taken out of the quiet grave, in which he lay entombed, burnt to ashes, and cast into the river. They still show his old oaken pulpit, and the high-backed wooden chair in which he died; also his portrait, said to have been done by one of the Fieldings, some of whose monuments may be seen in the church. Near it is Misterton Hall. Claybrooke Hall to the left of the station, and beyond, some Roman remains.
BROUGHTON ASTLEY , and COUNTESTHORPE Stations are then passed, when we cross the Union Canal, and a tributary of the Soar, by a viaduct of eleven arches, and arrive at
POPULATION , 2,521.
Telegraph station at Leicester, 3½ miles.
Wigston Hall, Captain Baddenley. Near it is an old moated manorial seat of the Davenports.
Shortly after leaving Wigston, we see the Ashby line, bearing away to the westward, and, passing through the Knighton Tunnel, 100 yards long, we arrive at
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Bell; Three Crowns.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.
FAIRS .—January 14th, March 2nd, May 12th, June 1st, July 5th, August 1st, September 13th, October 10th, November 2nd, December 8th, Palm Saturday, and Saturday in Easter Week.
RACES in September.
BANKERS . — Leicestershire Banking Company; Branch Bank of England; Paget and Kirby; Pares’s Leicestershire Banking Company; National Provincial Bank of England.
LEICESTER . the capital of Leicestershire, a parliamentary borough, and seat of the hosiery trade, on the river Soar, and Midland Railway, 103 miles from London, via Rugby. Population 68,056. Two members. Here was a castle, rebuilt by John of Gaunt after its destruction by Henry II., but finally destroyed by Charles I. in 1645, and of which nothing now remains but the mound. It stood on a site of 26 acres, at Castle View or Newark (New work), a mound above the rives. and was first built before the Conquest, by the Earls of Mercia. There are some remains of a collegiate foundation close by, of a later date, where John of Gaunt’s wife, Constance of Castile, Mary de Bohun, first wife of Henry IV., and others of the princely line of Lancaster, were interred.
There was a station here in Roman times, when it was called Ratœ, which guarded the Fossway and Via Devana, the proofs of which exist in medals, urns, and pavements from time to time discovered, as well as a piece of an arched Roman wall, in the Jewry (where the Jews used to live), 70 feet long, and above 20 high; but especially in an almost unique Roman milestone of Hadrian’s time, nearly 3 feet high, now deposited in the town Museum.
Another interesting relic is the wall of the terrace of St. Mary’s Augustine Abbey, built by Robert le Bossu, or Hunch-Back, one of the first Earls of Leicester, in the meadows (by the river), and therefore called St. Mary de Pratis, the site of which is a large florist’s nursery. Here Wolsey died.
In the Castle View the Assize Hall, deserves notice; it was the grea hall of the castle, and is 78 feet long by 50 broad, supported by oak pillars. It still retains many interesting architectural details of the Norman period. Two of the gateways of the Castle remain, one in ruins. The Guildhall is 80 feet long. At the Assembly Rooms is a painted ceiling, by Reinagle, the subjects being Aurora, Night, &c. The Collegiate School is in the Tudor style. Some of the hospitals for the poor are ancient; that called Trinity was founded in 1331. Wigston’s Hospital was founded in 1513, and possesses very large revenues. Pleasant views from the new walk on the south side of the town.
Leicester was of so much consequence in Saxon days that it was made the seat of a bishop for a time, with a palace close to St. Margaret’s Church, an early Gothic building. St. Martin’s, near Southga e Street, and St. Mary’s, near the castle, are both half Norman—the former being a cross, and the latter (distinguished by its tall spire) having stalls in it, with a fine timber roof. Robinson, author of the work on “Scripture Characters,” was vicar of St. Mary’s. St. Nicholas, in that street, near the castle, has a Norman tower.
Another bossu, the famous crook-backed Richard III., was brought here after the battle of Bosworth Field, and buried at the Grey Priory. He slept before the battle at a timbered house called the Blue Boar Inn (which was his crest), using the upper part overhanging the lower. The stone coffin, in which his body was interred, was used to form the horse trough at the Inn, ” Sic transit gloria mundi.” Leicester stands as near as possible in the centre of England.
“This foul swine
Lies here low in the centre of the isle
Near to the town of Leicester, as we learn.”
RICHARD III.
Stocking-making, the staple manufacture here, employs many wholesale dealers, and 4,000 or 5,000 hands, and many more in the neighbourhood, in worsted, wool, and cotton spinning, wool stapling, the weaving and sewing of the hose, and the making of needles, frames, &c. The large mills of Messrs. Harris, Brewin and Whetstone, Ellis, &c., rival those of Lancashire. Berlin gloves and lace are also made. Upwards of 20,000 stockingers altogether are engaged in the manufacture in this town, and at Loughborough, Hinckley, Lutterworth, &c.
Telegraph station at Leicester, 5½ miles.
In the vicinity is Bradgate Park, in which are the remains of the mansion, where Lady Jane Grey was born in 1537. Here her old tutor, Roger Ascham paid her a visit, and found her reading Plato, while the family were hunting in Charnwood Forest, then a desolate moor. Kirby Castle, and Braunston Hall, C. Winstanley, Esq.
Telegraph station at Leicester, 8 miles.
HOTELS .—Red Lion, and Roe Buck.
Near this, Bosworth Hall church, with its spire and tombs, is worth a visit; also the famous Bosworth Field, where Richard III was defeated, August 22, 1485, by the Earl of Richmond,
“Here pitch our tents, even here in Bosworth Field.”
RICHARD III., Act 5. sc. 3.
who succeeded as Henry VII., thus terminating the long and bloody contest between the rival houses of York and Lancaster. At Richard’s Well is an inscription by Dr. Parr. There are other localities around commemorating the battle, but all actual traces have now disappeared. Johnson was usher at the Grammar School, at the town of Market Bosworth.
BAGWORTH station.
Telegraph station at Leicester, 14½ miles.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
HOTEL .—Birch Tree.
Bardon Hill, a peak of the Charnwood Forest group, 853 ft. high, should be ascended, for the remarkable panorama it commands of the centre of England; where, being little elevated, the prospect from this point takes in a vast circle of 60 or 80 miles radius; and if the weather be favourable you may see the Peak Hills, the Wrekin in Shropshire, Lincoln Cathedral, Malvern Hills, the Dunstable, in Derbyshire, the Sugar Loaf, in Monmouthshire, &c. Some one has calculated that as much as one fourth of England is brought within this range of view. A monastery of St. Bernard was built near this in 1845.
Hard basalt (like lava) stone for edge tools; slate and coal are quarried in Charnwood Forest, now a wild, naked tract, belonging to the Marquis of Hastings.
COALVILLE .—Here is an immense coal district.
SWANNINGTON station.
Telegraph station at Burton, 9¾ miles.
HOTELS .—Royal; Queen’s Head.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—Easter and Whit-Tuesdays, September 4th, and November 8th.
BANKERS .—Leicestershire Banking Co.
ASHBY-DE-LA- ZOUCH , in Leicestershire, a thriving manufacturing town of 3,772 population, where stockings, hats, and fire bricks are made, and iron smelted, is situated in the middle of a coal field of 100 square miles. The coal is a shining hard sort. A bath-house has been built over some valuable springs which rise from the pits, and are very beneficial in cases of scrofula and similar complaints. Bishop Hall, one of the most famous divines of the English church, was born here in 1574, and brought up at the Grammar School, of which he became master. Formerly the town belonged to the Zouches, and was named after them—now it is the property of the Hastings family. Their castle here was built in 1480 in the Tudor style, by Sir William Hastings, who had the misfortune to be beheaded in the Tower by Richard III. As master of the mint to Edward IV. he was the first to coin nobles, worth 8s. 4d. each. This castle was one of the prisons of poor Mary, Queen of Scots; and being dismantled in the civil war, only the chapel, tower, &c., of the original pile remain. A front of later date has been added. In the old church, among the family tombs, is that of the excellent Countess of Huntingdon, one of Wesley’s earliest and most steadfast adherents, from whom the present Marquis is descended.
Near Ashby is Coleorton Hall, seat of Sir G. Beaumont, Bart. Willesley Park, to the west, belongs to Sir C. Hastings, Bart.
MOIRA and GRESLEY stations.
Burton, see Sec. II , page 61 .
A telegraph station.
In the vicinity are Wanlip Hall, Sir G. Palmer, Bart.; Barkley Hall, W. Pochin, Esq.; Rothley Temple, seat of the Babingtons.
REARSBY station.
Telegraph station at Syston, 4½ miles.
In the vicinity is Brooksby Park, the seat of the Dowager Lady Listowel, at which the Duke of Buckingham, James I.’s favourite, was born.
FRISBY and ASHFORDBY stations follow next in succession, in the vicinity of the latter of which is Kirby Park, formerly the seat of Sir Francis Burdett. Here he wrote his celebrated Reform Letter which caused his committal to the Tower of London.
A telegraph station. Population, 4,047
HOTEL .—George.
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—Tuesday after Jan. 17th, Holy Thursday, Whit Tuesday, and August 21st.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE .
MELTON MOWBRAY is the centre of a famous hunting country. Horses are bred here: its pork pies and Stilton cheese are also valuable productions. All about this quarter is excellent pasture for superior breeds of stock, well known as Leicestershire, especially the old or short-horned cattle and the new Leicestershire sheep, a large long-woolled breed. The cheeses are flat, weighing 30 to 50lbs. each. Mowbray Lodge, seat of General Wyndham.
Saxby. —In the vicinity is Stapleford Park, the old seat of the Earl of Harborough.
WHISENDINE , the entrance to the county of Rutland, and ASHWELL stations.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—March 15th, April 8th, May 6th, September 9th, November 19th, December 15th, Saturday after October 10th, and Saturday after Whitsuntide.
BANKERS .—Eaton, Cayley, and Co.; Branch of the Stamford, Spalding, and Boston Banking Company.
This little capital of the least of English shires (Rutland) contains an agricultural population of 2,948
Besides the county courts, there is a well-endowed Grammar School and Hospital for 100 boys, founded by Archdeacon Johnson just after the Reformation, the income of which amounts to the handsome sum of £3,000. There are 40 university exhibitions attached to it, and on this account it is much sought after. The Shire Hall stands within the ruined walls of the old Castle, founded by the Ferrers family soon after the Conquest. Over the gate are several gilded horse-shoes, with the names of noblemen by whom they have been given, it being quite an immemorial custom to ask every peer who visits the town for one, or else to pay a fine. Three horse shoes figure in the arms of the Ferrers, and one from George IV. when Regent.
There are some large seats in the neighbourhood. Burley House, Earl of Winchelsea, is a large Grecian building, from which you may obtain a prospect of the whole county. The former seat (destroyed in the civil war) belonged to the Duke of Buckingham, or “Steenie,” who here entertained his “dad and gossip,” James I., with a masque got up by Ben Jonson, and afterwards received “babie Charles,” on which occasion Geoffrey Hudson, the Oakham dwarf, was served up in a great pasty. The little fellow was then seven years old, and only 18 inches high; but he lived to be 3½ feet high, and to kill his man in a duel, on horseback, as Sir Walter Scott makes him relate with so much emphasis in “Peveril of the Peak.” His opponent came out armed with a large squirt. The Finches of Burley divide the manor of Oakham with the Dean of Westminster; the two shares being called the Lord’s and the Dean’s. Exton Park, the Elizabethan seat of the Earl of Gainsborough, was once the property of David of Huntingdon (who succeeded to the Scottish throne), and Robert Bruce, till he forfeited it by asserting the independence of his country. There are many monuments, banners, and other memorials of the Noel and Harrington families. Normanton, seat of Sir G. Heathcote, Bart. Belvoir Castle, the Duke of Rutland’s seat, described elsewhere.
MANTON station, for Uppingham, at which place there is one of Archdeacon Johnson’s schools, and a church of which Jeremy Taylor was once rector.
LUFFENHAM station.
Telegraph station at Stamford, 3½ miles. a
The Old Church here has a fine Norman tower, 180 feet high. It was the custom ancient times for the lord of the manor to hold it by the tenure of providing the Queen with boots.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Stamford Arms, Crown.
MARKET DAYS .—Monday and Friday.
FAIRS .—Tuesday before Feb. 13th, Mondays before Mid Lent and May 12th, Mid Lent Monday, Monday after Corpus Christi, August 3rd and Nov. 8th.
RACES at Wittering in July.
BANKERS .—Eaton, Cayley and Co.: Northamptonshire Banking Co.; Stamford, Spalding, and Boston Banking Co.
STAMFORD is an ancient borough town, in the county of Lincoln, with a population of 8,047, who return two members. It is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Welland river, and bordering the counties of Rutland and Northampton. It is a town of great antiquity, being a place of considerable importance in the time of the Danes and the Saxons. The appearance of the town, when seen from a distance, is remarkably picturesque, many of the old buildings being grouped together with the towers and steeples of the neighbouring churches, the principal of which are St. Mary’s, St. Martin’s, St. George’s, All Saints‗, and St. John’s. They are handsome edifices, and the latter one contains the ashes of Richard Cecil and his wife, the immediate progenitors of Lord Burleigh. There is also a splendid monument to the memory of William Cecil, Baron Burleigh, one to Daniel Lambert, the fat man, who was 9½ feet in girth, and several others, well worthy of attention. The charitable institutions in this town are both numerous and well endowed; there are also many handsome public edifices, among which we may mention the Theatre, Assembly Rooms, the Town Hall, &c. Here Hengist routed the Picts, and Alfred allowed the Danes to live. In the vicinity is Burleigh House, the Marquis of Exeter’s.
Passing UFFINGTON , HELPSTONE , and WALTON stations, we arrive at the Crescent Station,
Peterborough, described at page 44 .
This line was opened on the 8th of May, 1857, taking a direct route from Leicester to Hitchin. The stations on the route are — WIGSTON , GLEN , KIBWORTH , MARKET HARBOROUGH , DESBOROUGH , RUSHTON .
Telegraph station at Wellingbro‗, 6¾ miles.
HOTELS —The Royal; George.
A small old town in Northamptonshire, slightly elevated. It has a population of about 5,498, engaged principally in the working of wool. The commentator, Dr. Gill, was born here. Here is the chapel in which Andrew Fuller, a rough but clever Baptist divine, officiated till his death, in 1815. He was walking with Jay, of Bath, one day, when an owl flew by. “Is that a Jay?” said Fuller. “What a naturalist you are, brother,” said the other; “it can‗t be a jay. It is fuller in the head, fuller in the eye, fuller in the body, fuller all over.” Boughton House, the seat of the Buccleuch family, about two miles away, contains a valuable collection of paintings. We then pass through ISHAM , FINEDON , WELLINGBOROUGH , IRCHESTER , SHARNBROOK , and OAKLEY , arriving at
Bedford, for description of which See Section III ., page 8 . Then the stations of CARDINGTON , SOUTHILL , SHEFFORD , and HENLOW; immediately after which the arrival of the train is announced at
Hitchin, the junction of the line with that of the Great Northern, particulars of which will be found on page 42 .
SYSTON Junction, see page 3 .
Telegraph station at Syston, 3 miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Loughborough, 4¾ miles.
In the vicinity is Mount Sorrel, a lovely spot; Swithland Hall, Lord Lanesborough; and Rothley Temple, J. Parker, Esq.
BARROW .—Here Bishop Beveridge was born. Quorndon Hall, Sir R. Sutton, Bart.; and Quorndon House, close at hand.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—King’s Head, Bull, and Archer.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday.
FAIRS .—March 28th, April 25th, August 12th, and November 13th.
This town, with a population of 10,830, is a seat of the lace and stocking trades. In 1557 it was depopulated by the sweating sickness. In the vicinity are Prestwold Hall, with its fine collection of pictures, seat of C. Packe, Esq., M P.; Garendon Park, C. Philips, Esq.; and Walton House, E. Dawson, Esq.
POPULATION , 1,773.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station.
In the vicinity is Donnington Park, seat of the Marquis of Hastings, at which Moore passed his boyish days.
A telegraph station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Nottingham, 5½ miles.
In the vicinity is Thrumpton Hall, the old Elizabethan s eat of the Pigots, now belonging to Captain By ron.
POPULATION , 3,195.
Telegraph station at Nottingham, 3¼ miles.
In the vicinity are Wollaton Hall, Lord Middleton, a descendant of the celebrated Sir Hugh Willoughby.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—George IV., Lion, Flying Horse, Black Boy, Maypole.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—March 7th and 8th, October 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, Thursday before Easter, and Friday after June 13th. RACES in July.
BANKERS .—Messrs. J. and J. C. Wright and Co.; Messrs. Smith and Co.; Messrs. Robinson and Moore; Messrs. Hart, Fellowes, and Co.
NOTTINGHAM , the Saxon Snatinghaham, and capital of the county of Notts, near the beautiful river Trent, well known to the angler, is situated on a rocky eminence of red sandstone, and is allowed by competent judges to be not only one of the healthiest, but one of the most picturesque inland towns in England. At a height of 300 feet above the level of the town towers Castle Hill, from which a noble prospect of the town, and a vast extent of country may be obtained. Up to a recent date Nottingham, though well built, paved, and so forth, has been excessively crowded, from the circumstance that the town limits were strained to the utmost, so that persons connected with its trade were obliged to resort to the neighbouring parishes, where populous villages have sprung up, as at Radford, Lenton, Basford, Carrington, Arnold, Sneinton, Carlton, &c., at the latter of which is to be found the largest quantity of the purest red clay in the world, so that a very extensive trade is carried on in the making of bricks, &c. The town is now rapidly increasing, and bids fair to rank amongst the first manufacturing towns in England, some warehouses of great architectural beauty having already made their appearance. Within the last six or seven years, a beautiful Arboretum has been opened, which, together with the delightful walks off the Mansfield Road, and others adjoining the Queen’s Road, and that leading to the banks of the Trent, crossed by means of a ferry boat to the Clifton side (whose beautiful grove is frequented by all the admirers of nature) and the subject of Kirke White’s muse, form pleasant sources of recreation and enjoyment. The total population of the borough is upwards of 74,693, but the industrial population in and around Nottingham, and dependent upon its trade, is nearly three times that number. Silk, cotton stockings, and bobbin-net lace are the staple manufactures. Until recently the stockings were usually worked upon frames, rented from the employers; but this, to a great extent, has been altered since the introduction of the round frames, which are now generally confined to factories. Hand and power machines are used for the net, which, succeeding Lindley’s point net (used first in 1780), was invented by Heathcote in 1809. Arkwright set up here (before 1771) one of his earliest spinning machines; it was moved by horse-power. It was on the occasions of the distress among the frame-work knitters and twist hands here that Lord Byron delivered his two speeches in Parliament, in 1812 which are usually to be found in his works. This was just after the publication of his “English Bards and Scotch Reviewers.” One of the wards of Nottingham is named Byron ward, and another Sherwood ward, that forest being only a few miles distant. In 1817 the frame-work knitters and twist hands broke out again, under the name of Luddites, and went aboutdestroying machinery, &c. The Market Place is one of the finest in England, and stands on an area of upwards of five acres of land, well paved, &c., at one end of which stands the Exchange. Here will be found most of the principal shops in the town. The second floors of these houses hang over the pavement, supported by large pillars, and form an elegant piazza. The Corn Exchange, in Thurland Street, 77 feet long by 50 broad, has a glass roof, and was built in 1850. The Mechanics‗ Institution, in Milton Street, at the bottom of Mansfield Road, is a fine building of modern date. The Assembly Rooms, in the Low Pavement, the exterior of which lays claim to no great pretensions, as to its interior may be found worthy of notice. The County Hall, on a rock near the High Pavement, was built in 1770, by J. Gandon (the architect of the Custom House, and other first class buildings in Dublin): behind it is the County Prison. The Town Hall, in the Middle Pavement, where the sessions and assizes are held for the town. The town House of Correction is at the bottom of Lower Parliament Street, and stands on the site of an ancient Preceptory of the order of Knights Hospitallers.
St. Mary’s church is an ancient building, on a rock, shaped like a cross, and having a pinnacled tower of later date. There is a chapel (formerly a chantry) in it to the memory of J. Plumtre, who in 1392, founded an hospital here, lately rebuilt. St. Peter’s church has a crochetted spire, and is partly Norman. Trinity is modern Gothic, with a spire. Pugin’s Romish Cathedral is also in the Gothic style, 180 feet long, with a tall spire. The painted windows were the gift of the late Earl of Shrewsbury. The General Hospital was founded in 1781. The Gounty Asylum occupies a site of 8 acres. The new Blind Asylum, for the Midland counties, by Messrs. Aickin and Capes, is in the Elizabethan style. The Forest Cemetery is in the outskirts. The Lene is converted into an unhealthy marsh on the south side of the town, and after dividing into several branches, joins the Trent at the long straggling bridge or causeway of 19 arches, which replaces one made by Edward the elder, who first fortified Nottingham. The Castle was built by the Conqueror’s nephew, William Peverell, to command the Trent, and after various events, dismantled by Cromwell, in common with other feudal places in England. A mansion, erected on the site, by the Duke of Newcastle, in 1680, was burnt down in the riots of 1831, on account of the part taken by the late Duke against the Reform Bill, for which he obtained £21,000 damages from the hundred. After Richard II.’s death, his worthless queen, Isabella, came here to live with her favourite, Roger Mortimer, where they were betrayed by Sir Wm. Eland, the Governor, to Edward III., who found an entrance from below by a secret passage from the rock, still called Mortimer’s Hole; Mortimer was executed, and Isabella banished. In 1642, Charles I. occupied it, and first hoisted his flag against the parliament, on a hill in the Park, since called Standard Hill, close to the former cavalry barracks. But the royalist party only kept possession of it till the next year, when Colonel Hutchinson was appointed Governor of the Castle on behalf of parliament. Mrs. Hutchinson, in her delightful Memoirs, describes the Castle and the stirring events in which her husband took a leading part; among others of the temporary surprise of the town by the Newark cavaliers, through the treachery of Alderman Toplady, a great malignant, and how they were hindered from pursuing them, when driven out, by the obstinacy of an “old dull-headed Dutchman.” On this occasion, the former church of St. Nicholas, was pulled down, because its steeple commanded the platform of the Castle. Colonel Hutchinson was born here in 1616, his father being obliged to remove from Owlthorpe to winter here just at that time; his mother was a Byron of Newstead. Another native was Henry Kirke White, born in 1785, a butcher’s son. He was first brought up at Mr. Blanchard’s School, and after a year’s application at a stocking loom, was apprenticed to Messrs. Coldham and Enfield, solicitors here, and studied so hard that he was chosen Professor of Literature in the Literary Society, by acclamation, when only 15 years old. The hopes excited by his earliest poems (published three years after), were nipped by a sharp notice in a review, but they led to his acquaintance with Southey, the publication of his “Remains,” and his posthumous celebrity. Southey says that Coleridge was present when he opened White’s papers after his death, and both were astonished at the industry and ability they displayed. Besides papers on literature, science, poems, tragedies, and political articles, he had planned a history of Nottingham. “I have inspected (says the generous biographer) all the existing MSS. of Chatterton, and they excited less wonder than these.” On Mapperley Plain, an elevated spot to the north, there is a prospect of Belvoir Castle and Lincoln Cathedral. Here it is intended to erect the Midland Observatory, founded in 1853, chiefly by the liberality of Mr. Lawson, of Bath, who gave instruments to the institution, together with £10,000. At Mr. Lowe’s Observatory, Highfield House, a temperature of 6° below zero (38 below freezing point) was noted on the 3rd January, 1854, being lower than anything that had happened for 85 years past.
The first two stations on this line are TOTON and SANDIACRE , in the vicinity of the latter of which are Stapleford Hall; Bramcote, I. Sherwin, Esq. Close at hand is the Druid Hemlock Stone, 50 feet high, on a bare knoll; and Risley Hall, Captain Hall.
STANTON GATE station.
Telegraph station at Trent, 6¾ miles.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday.
FAIRS .—March 6th, Whit – Thursday, and Thursday after Christmas.
This place is celebrated for its mineral springs, and is much frequented. Population, 3,330. Ilkeston Park, seat of S. Potter, Esq., is in the immediate neighbourhood.
SHIPLEY GATE , in the vicinity are Shipley Hall, Nuthall Temple, High Park, Beauvale Abbey, and Lamb Close.
POPULATION , 4,084.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
Telegraph station at Trent, 9¼ miles.
In the vicinity is Greasley, the old seat of the Cantilupes, who founded Beauvale Priory, some parts of which are left standing; also Eastwood Hall, Heanor, Brinsley, and Underwood, all beautiful seats.
POPULATION , 795.
Distance from station, 2 miles.
Telegraph station at Belper, 5½ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Belper, 5½ miles.
On the hill are the ruins of the Zouches‗ and Greys‗ old seat.
PYE BRIDGE .—From this place the railway continues through the stations of ALFRETCN and DOE HILL to CLAY CROSS the junction with the Midland Main Line to Sheffield, &c. See page 15 .
Passing PINXTON and SUTTON stations, we reach.
Mansfield.— Described further on.
This is another but shorter route between Nottingham and Mansfield. The stations passed are LENTON , at which are the ruins of a Priory and old Court House; RADFORD , noted for its lace and stocking trade: BASFORD; BULWELL , in the vicinity of which is Nuthall Temple, seat of R. Holden, Esq.
POPULATION , 2,836.
Telegraph station at Nottingham, 8½ miles.
At this place, a village of stockingers, is the church (having a low square tower) in which Byron is buried, with many of his ancestors. Among them are Admiral Byron, or “Foulweather Jack,” who sailed round the world.
Telegraph station at Nottingham, 9½ miles.
In the vicinity of this place is Newstead Abbey, formerly Byron’s seat, to which he succeeded when only 10 years old, and was sold by him to Colonel Wildman. Mr. Rogers of Nottingham was his tutor before he entered the army. Part of the abbey church (founded in the 12th century) is the mansion, round which are grouped the great hall, cloisters, and other remains of the original Gothic pile. His favourite Newfoundland dog, Boatswain, is buried in a garden, under the well-known cynical epitaph. In clearing the lake on one occasion, a brass eagle was found, whose hollow breast contained the Abbey papers, sealed up; the eagle is now in Southwell church. Annesley Park was a seat of the Chaworths, from whom it came to the late J. Musters, Esq., of Colwick. The church contains some old monuments.
KIRKBY and SUTTON stations.
Telegraph station at Nottingham, 17¼ miles.
POPULATION , 8,346.
HOTEL .—Swan.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday.
FAIRS .—First Thursday in April, July 10th, and Second Thursday in October.
MANSFIELD is a market town in the county of Nottingham, agreeably situated on the banks of the river Man. It consists of two principal streets, with several smaller ones branching from them, which contain a great number of handsome buildings. The church (Gothic building), contains over each aisle a handsome gallery. The trade of the town consists principally of corn, malt, cotton goods, hosiery, lace, and also in the valuable stone which abounds in the neighbourhood. The circumstance related in the tale of the “Miller of Mansfield,” occurred about the reign of Henry II. Near the Town Hall in the Market Place is a florid Gothic cross, to the memory of the late Lord G. Bentinck, the protectionist leader, and upright member of the turf. Sherwood Forest, of which this is the centre, extended from Nottingham to Worksop, and included all the parks and seats which lie between those places. Most of it is cleared, and some parts excavated for coal and iron; but picturesque tracts of woodland still bring back to mind the unsettled times when Robin Hood, Hugh Little John, and Friar Tuck hunted the king’s venison, without license under the great seal. Whoever Robin Hood really was, whether a bold outlaw, or a patriotic descendant of the Saxon Earls of Huntingdon, as Stukeley affirms, none for the future will take him but as he is described in the pages of Ivanhoe, by the inimitable Scott.
Pursuing our course on the Lincoln branch, the train brings us to CARLTON , a small village; BURTON JOYCE , in the church at which are monuments to the Jaez family, to whom this place formerly belonged; LOWDHAM; THURGARTON , near to which is the Priory, R. Milward, Esq., founded by Ralph d‗Ayncourt in 1130; and FISKERTON .
ROLLESTON , the junction of the Branch to
Telegraph station at Newark, 6¼ miles.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
Population, 3,095, is a place where a Christian church was founded as far back as 627, by Paulinus, archbishop of York, and has a large and ancient Collegiate Church or Minster, 306 feet long. The nave is Norman, with great massive pillars, and the rest is early English. The west towers, choir, beautiful screen, monuments of archbishop Sandys and other York primates, Schmidt’s old organ, as well as the brass reading desk, with an eagle brought from Newstead lake, from which it was fished up, with the abbey papers hid inside, deserve notice. Over the belfry door is a very ancient piece of sculpture, supposed to refer to Christ. The chapter house, some parts of the archbishop’s palace, and college, yet remain; the bounds of the Prebendage are marked by an old auclury, with an empty niche on the crown. One of the mineral springs in the neighbourhood gave the town its modern name; Bede calls it Tisfulfingaceaster —where the termination seems to point to the Roman state of ad Pontem, which was near. The Saracen’s Head, here, is memorable in English history, as being the house where Charles I. surrendered himself in 1646 to his Scottish adherents, to be afterwards sold by them to Cromwell; his room is on the south side of the gate. It was then called the King’s Arms. There are some remains of Wolsey’s Palace, which Cromwell’s troopers destroyed. A public walk is near Norwood Hall, the seat of Sir John Sutton. Bart. For Sherwood Forest, Newstead, &c., see Nottingham , page 5 .
NEWARK .—The particulars of this town will be found on page 49 .
Then passing COLLINGHAM , SWINDERRY , THORPE , and HYKEHAM stations, we arrive at
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Great Northern Railway Station; Saracen’s.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
FAIRS .—Friday in Easter Week, last whole week in April, Tuesday after April 11th, July 5th, October 6th, and November 28th.
RACES in September and February.
BANKERS .—Smith, Ellison and Co.; Lincoln and Lindsey Banking Co.
LINCOLN , a city and parliamentary borough, population 20,999 (two members), cathedral town, and the capital of Lincolnshire, on a hill near the Witham. Lincoln was the Roman Lindum or Lindum Colonia, from which the present name is derived. The great North Road, identical with the Roman Ermine Street, runs through it from south to north for a length of two miles, passing in the true Roman style straight over the hill, on which the noble cathedral stands. Part of it is still called Herman Street. Another Roman road came to Lincoln, the Fosseway, which gives name to the Fosse Dyke Canal, first cut in the reign of Henry I.
In High Street, “below hill,” are the principal shops and inns, and the old Guildhall bow gate of Richard II.’s time, but the best houses are in the upper part of the town, “above hill,” to which you ascend by a steep hill and a long flight of steps. Here, on the site of the Roman station, the cathedral, castle, and other buildings are placed.
The Cathedral or Minster is a splendid object, seen at 30, 40, and even in clear weather 50 miles round, rising over everything, as if to the clouds. It is a double cross, that is, it has two transepts, like Salisbury, and is 475 feet long internally. One transept is 220 feet, the other 170 feet; the great tower, 240 feet high; two west towers, 180 feet. Formerly, the latter had spires which made them 100 feet more. In one is the new bell, Great Tom, cast by Mears, in 1835, which is seven feet across, and weighs 12,000lbs. The church is mostly early English, having been built between 1186 and 1324. The west front, 175 feet broad, has a noble window and doorway, with various pinnacles and niched figures, besides a Galilean or porch. The timber roof is 80 feet from the pavement, and in one sense the highest pitched in the kingdom. Among the monuments are those to Bishop Cantelupe and Dean Welbourne, of Edward III.’s time, a chapel to the memory of Edward I.’s Queen, Eleanor, and another with the Burghersh tombs. There is an ancient brass of Lady Swinford, the mother of the Beauforts, by John of Gaunt. It contained a rich gold and silver shrine of great value, removed at the Reformation, by Henry VIII.’s vicegerent Cromwell, whose reforms were so ill received that the people rose in rebellion under Mackerel, or “Captain Cobler,” Prior. The Chapter House is a ten-sided building, by bishop Hugh, 60 feet across, and 42 feet high to the vaulted roof, which rests on one pillar. Cloisters 116 feet long. The library contains a very early charter, such as the Norman kings were used to grant, to please their Saxon subjects. The Deanery and Vicars‗ College are of the 13th century. An old palace was ruined in the civil war; parts of the great hall are standing. The Exchequer gate is one of three or four old gates worth notice, especially the Newport (or north) gate, which is Roman, as well as the piece of wall adjoining, which corresponds with the Mint Wall near the castle. The Newport gate was erected 40 years after Christ, and is consequently upwards of 1,822 years old.
Opposite the cathedral is the castle, within the walls of which are contained the County Hall and the Prisons, built by Smirke at a cost of £40,000. Just within the gateway is a very beautiful Oriel window, recently removed from a house standing opposite to John of Gaunt’s stables. This spot of eight acres still belongs to the Duchy of Lancaster, the possessions of which merged in the crown, on the accession of John of Gaunt’s Son, as Henry IV. Parts of the Norman keep and walls of the castle which the Conqueror built here still remain. At that time Lincoln had upwards of 1,000 houses, of which 166 were pulled down to make room for the castle.
The Guildhall is very ancient; the Corn Exchange, a modern building; the Asylum, on the slope of Castle Hill, has a front of 260 feet, and a good prospect. The County Asylum is at Bracebridge, about a mile from the city, and is a most extensive establishment. An old Grey Friary of the 13th century, turned into a Mechanics‗ Institute and school, is timber roofed. The Blue Coat School is well endowed. The Grammar School was founded in 1567.
Lincoln at one time possessed so many churches and religious houses that it gave rise to a proverb, “He looks like the devil over Lincoln,” because it was supposed to be the object of his peculiar envy. Many of those edifices may be still recognised by the remains of Gothic windows and doors. Of the 50 churches, 15 remain, mostly of little consequence. Those of St. Benedict, St. Mary-le-Wigford, and St. Peter-at-Gowts, (gout, a short cut for water), offer some Norman and early English work. St. Paul’s in the Bail, is on the site of the first Christian church planted here. St. Nicholas, on the Brigg Road, is a handsome new church. On Steep Hill is an ancient carved house, which they say belonged to a Jew of Edward I.’s time, who was executed for clipping coin; about this period many of that persecuted race were hung (for their money) on the less tenable charge of having crucified a child. Their wealth and commercial habits contributed to make Lincoln one of the most prosperous towns in the kingdom. At a later period the Flemings introduced the manufacture of woollen and camlet stuffs, which went under the name of “Lincoln Green.” It now brews good ale. An old proverb says—
“Ankham (i. e., Ancholme) eel, and Witham Pike, In all England is none like.”
On the Horncastle Road is the Monk’s House, on a good point of view.
In the neighbourhood of Lincoln are the following—Canwick Hall, the seat of the late Major G. T. W. Sibthorpe, M.P. for Lincoln; Burton Park, the seat of Lord Monson; Branston Hall, the seat of the Hon. A. L. Melville. Blankney, C. Chaplin, Esq. Near this is also Dunston Pillar, placed there in the last century to guide travellers over the waste which stretched around, now reclaimed, and made good turnip land at 20s. an acre. Bardney and Tuphohne Abbey ruins are down the Witham. Within a short distance, on the Great Northern line, are also the picturesque ruins of Tattershall Castle. Bailing Priory, on the Wragby Road. Kirton-in-Lindsev, on the old Ermine Street road, has a large old early English church (kirk). This road runs along the top of the heath and warren hills just spoken of, which, north and south of Lincoln, formed, till cultivated, a useless and desolate tract, ten miles long; so much for guano, oil-cake, draining, and Lincolnshire enterprise. Lindsey, in the north division of the county, takes its name from Lindum.
From LONG EATON we pass SAWLEY and DRAYCOTT stations, in the vicinity of which are Draycott House, and Hopewell Hall, T. Pares, Esq. Near to BORROWASH is Elvaston Castle, seat of the Earl of Harrington.
POPULATION , 1,523.
Telegraph station at Derby, 2¾ miles.
In the vicinity are Spondon Hall, W. J, Cox, Esq.; Chaddesden Hall, Sir H. Wilmot, Bart.: and Osmaston Hall, Sir Robert Wilmot, Bart.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—The Midland, Family and Commercial. It is gratifying to be able to refer to an establishment like this, which deservedly enjoys the highest reputation. It possesses all the comforts of a home, and there is no lack of the spirit necessary to provide to the fullest extent every thing which can recommend it to its patrons. It is conducted in the most able manner by Mrs. Chatfield, and it may claim to rank amongst the first Hotels in England. If further commendation were needed, we may add that the utmost politeness and economy may be anticipated. It is also very convenient to travellers wishing to view this interesting portion of the country, for from it Elvaston Castle, the seat of Lord Harrington, Kedleston Park, the seat of Lord Scarsdale, and Alton Towers, with their beautiful grounds, may be visited. The latter claim especial notice, and will amply repay the time and trouble of visiting them.
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesday and Friday.
FAIRS .—Monday after January 6th, March 3rd and 21st, Easter Friday, Friday after May 1st, Whit-Friday, July 25th, Sept. 19th and 27th, and Oct. 4th.
BANKERS .—Derby and Derbyshire Bank; W. and S. Evans; Sam. Smith and Co.; Crompton and Co.
DERBY takes its name from Derwent-by, the town of the Derwent, the capital of Derbyshire, and a borough with a population of 43,091, represented by two members. There was a Roman station called Derventio not far off, at Little Chester. The Conqueror gave it, with nearly the whole county, to William Peveril, “Peveril of the Peak;” and in modern times it was the point at which Charles Stuart and his Highlanders, in their famous march towards London, despairing of help from the English Jacobites, turned back to the north. The neighbourhood is fertile and somewhat hilly. Derby is the chief depôt of the Midland Company, having, besides its splendid station 1,050 feet long, large engine and carriage sheds, workshops, &c., some nearly 200 feet in length. The Engine House is a 16-sided polygon, 134 feet across, with a conical roof. In the large Market Place on the south-side is the Town Hall, a handsome building, restored in 1842, with a rustic base, carvings in relief, and clock tower. One of the most conspicuous objects is the beautiful tower of All Saints, built in Henry VII.’s reign, in a rich florid Gothic style, with buttresses and pinnacles; the low square body is a miserable addition of Gibb’s in the last century. Within are the Cavendish tombs and a fine screen. The Gothic spire of St. Alkmund’s New Church is 205 feet high; and the tower of St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, by Pugin, deserves, notice. St. Peter’s is the oldest here, The new Athenæum and Post Office are in the Corn Market. An excellent Infirmary was founded in 1806. The County Asylum, by Duesbury, is in the Elizabethan style. A large County Prison. A Lecture Hall at the Mechanics Institute, where an industrial exhibition was held, in 1839; and a well stocked Museum, open from ten to four, at the Philosophical Society, first established by Dr. Darwin.
Various manufactures are carried on here, the most flourishing being silk, stockings, ribbons, tape, cotton, and porcelain.
Derby was the place where the first Silk Mill in England was built in 1718, by Lombe; it is now occupied by Mr. Taylor. Both it and the Strutts‗ cotton mill, by the river side, are on a large scale. There are about twenty-five silk mills at present. At Handyside’s foundry, castings of all kinds, vases, tripods, columns, &c., are seen, besides slotting and rolling mills. Hall’s fluor spar, and black marble works, are open from eight to six. The porcelain factory; Holme’s carriage factory, and Cox & Co.’s shot tower may be noticed.
Not far from the station is the new Arboretum of 16 acres, laid out in 1840, by London, given to the town by Joseph Strutt, Esq. — a noble gift, estimated at £10,000. It contains two Elizabethan lodges and arbours, a great variety of shrubs and trees; and is open gratis on Wednesday and Saturday, other days 6d.
Wright, “of Derby,” the painter, and Richardson, the novelist, were natives, 1734.
From the central situation of Derby, it is often selected by Tourists as their head quarters, whence they branch off in excursions to Chatsworth, Haddon Hall (to be seen every Friday). Hardwick, Dovedale, Matlock Baths, Alton Tower Garden; all very beautiful places.
Three quarters of a mile beyond the station at Derby the line passes under the Nottingham Road, and onward to the station at LITTLE EATON , from whence it diverges to the right, a distance of 6¼ miles, passing en route the stations of COXBENCH , KILBURN , and DENBER , to the small town of
RIPLEY , the inhabitants of which are mainly employed in the iron and coal mines around.
Telegraph station at Burton, 4½ miles.
The village of Repton is one of the most ancient places in the county, and supposed to have been a Roman station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Burton, 4½ miles.
BURTON —described Sec. II ., page 61 .
(Barton-under-Needwood).
POPULATION of Barton, 1,589.
Telegraph station at Burton, 4 miles.
In the vicinity are Wichnor Park, J. Levett, Esq., and Walton Hall, Mrs. M. Gisborne.
CROXALL and HASELOUR stations.
TAMWORTH —See Section III ., page 23 .
In the vicinity of WILNECOTE is Drayton Manor, seat of the late and present Sir Robert Peel.
KINGSBURY . — This manor has been held by the Bracebridge family ever since 851.
WHITACRE JUNCTION . — In the vicinity is Hams Hall, seat of C. Adderley, Esq., M.P.
POPULATION , 2,053.
Telegraph station at Whitacre Junction, 2 miles.
HOTEL .—The Swan.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—Shrove Monday, May 6th, Wednesday after New Michaelmas.
The church has a fine crocketted spire, and tombs of the Clintons and Digbys. Coleshill Park, the seat of Earl Digby, and Coleshill House, the seat of Captain A. Adderley, are close at hand.
Hampton station.
FORGE MILLS , station.
The stations of WATER ORTON , CASTLE BROMWICH (Bromwich Hall, seat of the Earl of Bradford), and SALTLEY , are next passed, and we arrive at
Birmingham.— See Section III ., page 19 .
On our departure from Birmingham we pass the stations of CAMP HILL , MOSELEY , and KING’s NORTON , to
BARNT GREEN station, for Studley and Alcester; also the junction of a line 4¾ miles long, and running, via the station of ALVECHURCH. , to
REDDITCH , a place remarkable for its extensive needle manufactories. It has a population of 4,800.
Fairs in August, 1st Monday; September, 3rd Monday.
BLACKWELL STATION .
Distance, from station, 1½ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Golden Cross, and Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—June 24th and Oct. 10th.
This place has a population of 5,262 chiefly nailers. The church, with its tall spire, and tombs of the Talbots, the Town Hall, and Grammar School should be visited. Hewell Grange, seat of the Hon. R. Clive, is close at hand.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Bromsgrove, 2 miles.
The large chemical works here should be visited.
WADBOROUGH station.
DEFFORD .—The Abbey Church at Pershore, and Croome Park, the Earl of Coventry’s fine seat, are well worth a visit.
ECKINGTON .—The Malvern hills are distant six miles. In the vicinity is Strensham, the birth-place of Butler.
BREDON . — Here are remains of a Roman camp on the hill, 800 feet high, which commands an extensive view.
ASHCHURCH station.
POPULATION , 5,876.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Swan.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—Second Monday in March, first Wednesday in April, May 14th, June 22nd, Sept. 4th, and Oct 10th.
BANKERS . — Branch of Glo’ster Banking Co. Lechmere and Co. Cheltenham and Glo’ster Bank.
This place is famous for the great defeat by Edward IV., in 1417, at Bloody Meadow, of the Lancastrians under Queen Margaret. The heroic queen was taken prisoner by the Yorkists, and her son was killed. Its Abbey Church is Norman, and contains wall paintings and effigies of the De Spencers, Warwick, Abbot Alaunus (the friend of Thomas à Becket), Lord Clare, and Lady Clarke, by Flaxman, An arch of the cloister, with beautiful tracery, still remains. Tewkesbury Park, seat of Rev. J. Shapland, is famous for its salmon fishery. Here cloth and mustard were made in Shakspere’s time, hence the proverb, “As thick as Tewkesbury mustard.”
CLEEVE station.
CHELTENHAM and GLOUCESTER .—See Section II ., pages 13 and 14 .
Haresfield and Stonehouse stations.
FROCESTER .—In the vicinity is Woodchester Park Nunnery.
DURSLEY JUNCTION .
CAM station.
Telegraph station at Berkeley Road, 5 miles.
A small town containing a population of 2,477, engaged principally in the manufacture of woollen cloths. The church is of the style of the later English, with arms of the Berkeley family, to whom the town originally belonged.
BERKELEY ROAD station, about 2½ miles to the right of which is the town of
POPULATION , 1,011.
Telegraph station at Berkeley Road, 2½ miles.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday. FAIR .—May 14th.
This is a small country town in Gloucestershire, in the vale of Berkeley, a fat loamy tract, between the Cotswold Hills and the Severn, noted for its rich pasture and Double Gloucester cheese. Each cow yields on an average, nearly 11b. per day. Dr. Jenner, the discoverer of vaccination, was born here. An early English church, with a detached tower, contains his tomb, that of Dicky Pearce, with Swift’s epitaph, and those of the Berkeleys, who came here in Henry II.’s time, and are represented by Earl Fitzhardinge, of Berkeley Castle. This is an ancient moated pile, with a Norman gateway and keep. Here the unfortunate Edward II. was murdered in 1327, by a red-hot iron being driven through his body, at the instigation of his Queen Isabella, and her paramour, Mortimer.
“Mark the year, and mark the night,
When Severn shall re-echo with affright,
The shrieks of death through Berkeley’s roof shall ring;
Shrieks of an agonizing king.”—GRAY
.
A pretended cast of his face, some very old family portraits, and the cabin furniture of Drake, the navigator, are seen in the apartments.
Tortworth Court, 5 miles south of Berkeley, was the seat of the late Earl Ducie, a great agriculturist, whose breeding stock was sold off in 1853, at extraordinary prices. One cow, called the Duchess, fetched as much as 800 guineas! Further south is Thornbury Castle, a fine Gothic ruin, begun by Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, but stopped by his execution in Henry VIII.’s time. On the other side of the railway, up the hills, are the picturesque clothing towns of Wotton-under-Edge and Dursley, the latter having been the first seat of the Berkeleys, and has some hot springs near the churchyard. The former has a good church (with some of their monuments), and a chapel and house, built by Rowland Hill, whose favourite retreat it was, and in which his wife is buried.
CHARFIELD .—In the vicinity is Tortworth Court, seat of Earl Ducie.
YATE .—In the vicinity are Doddington Park, C. Codrington, Esq.; Little Sodbury House, W. Hartley, Esq.; and Chipping Sodbury, celebrated for its large cheese market.
MANGOTSFIELD station.
Bristol.— See Section II ., page 19 .
The next station after leaving Derby is DUFFIELD . In the neighbourhood is Milford House, seat of G. H. Strutt, Esq.
POPULATION , 9,509.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Lion.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—May 12th and October 31st.
BANKERS .— Derby Banking Co.
BELPER , 7 miles up the Derwent, is a thriving town, containing Strutt’s cotton mills, nail factories, potteries, &c.; visited by Her Majesty in 1832.
A telegraph station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Belper, 3¼ miles.
This portion of the line, from Ambergate to Rowsley, goes through one of the most enchanting districts in the world, unsurpassable in boldness, grandeur, and magnificence of character.
On starting from Ambergate there is nothing particularly worthy of notice, if we except the noble woods of Alderwasley, in which is situated the beautiful seat of F. Hurt, Esq. On approaching Whatstandwell Bridge, the rails, canal, turnpike-road, and river being all in juxtaposition, is certainly rather extraordinary, and a circumstance seldom or never occurring.
Telegraph station at Ambergate, 2¼ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Matlock Bath, 3¾ miles.
With the appearance of a dwelling-house planted on the top of a masoned tunnel, the great and increased beauty of the scenery may be said to commence. The valley narrows, and as you pass over the chaste metal bridge which crosses the Derwent, and approach the south entrance to the Lea Wood tunnel, the view around and in front is exquisitely grand. Nearly on the top of the hill you see nestled the picturesque spot of Lea Hurst, the residence of Miss Florence Nightingale. A metal aqueduct for the canal here crosses the rail. On emerging from the Lea Wood tunnel, at the north end, the country appears to open out a little more, and you pass Lea Valley and manufactories to the right, and the highly cultivated rich pastures (belonging to P. Arkwright, Esq.) to the left. There, also, is the terminus of the High Peak Railway, an object of great curiosity, from its numerous inclined planes, and the manner in which it is worked by stationary engines and endless chains.
Further on, as you approach Willersley Tunnel, you see Willersley Castle, Rock House, Cromford Church, and the Heights of Abraham. Willersley Tunnel is long and dreary, but you emerge from it to the Matlock Bath station, where a majestic amphitheatre of scenery opens to the view. To the left, on the opposite side of the river, is the celebrated Matlock Bath.
You next pass through the High Tor Tunnel, dry and comfortable, and the gloom is dissipated by an opening in the centre, wherein you enjoy the daylight for a second or two, and a pretty view of the road and river. On emerging from the High Tor Tunnel, another picturesque amphitheatre strikes the eye. The river, new bridge, neighbouring woods and rocks, the residence of John Greaves, Esq., and Boat House Inn, all tend to render this, perhaps, as interesting a scene as any of the foregoing.
The High Tor is one of the most remarkable rocks in England, in consequence of the immense mass of bare perpendicular rock exhibited at such an altitude. The limestones of the Jura, in Southern Germany, do not show so bold a face. The granite of the Alps have perpendicular faces or chasms to the depth of 2,000 feet, but then no living being has ever been able to descend and look up to their gigantic forms; on the contrary, in Derbyshire, you can walk in amongst these masses, admire, and somewhat estimate their proportions. In Wales, Scotland, and on the Alps, the scale of altitude and breadth is vast and profound, requiring time to consider and estimate their vast proportions; but in Derbyshire the exquisitely beautiful prevails. The lofty rocks and bold crags, richly wooded; the magnificent uplands and rounded knolls; the sweet vallies, intersected with silver streams, such as the Derwent, the Wye, and the Dove, are comprised in one beautiful picture; whilst the attractions of either of these rivers, the lovers of the rod and line can well attest. They are, perhaps, the best for trout and grayling in the kingdom.
POPULATION , 1,140.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
Telegraph station at Matlock Bath, 1 mile.
HOTEL .—Greyhound.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Matlock, 1 mile.
Here Arkwright set up his first mill in 1771. In the vicinity is Willersley Castle, the Arkwrights‗ seat.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Greave’s Old Bath Hotel.
The New Bath Hotel.
Walker’s Hotel and Boarding House; very good, comfortable, and moderate.
The Devonshire Hotel.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
MATLOCK BATH .—Unquestionably the sweetest and most charming of the Derbyshire spas (with a population of 4,252). It is at the bottom of Matlock Dale, a narrow defile, the rocky limestone sides of which are piled up in the manner of the Undercliff, in the Isle of Wight, but covered with a profusion of pine, fir, yew, box, and other hardy trees. The scenes through Matlock Bath are exquisitely beautiful, and may be compared to a Switzerland in a nut shell. The High Tor, the Hag Tor, the Cat Tor, on the left, with Stonnis or the Black Rocks in the distance, form a semi-amphitheatre of most imposing objects, while on the right is Masson Low, or the Heights of Abraham (from the likeness it bears to the scene of Wolfe’s Victory at Quebec), 1,600 feet above the river—with the tower on the lower height—and the range of hills which slope upwards from the valley, present a most perfect and enchanting coup d‗œil. Many of the lodging houses are perched on these slopes, looking down on the river and the rail, which run close to the road beneath. These Tors and hills shelter the valley in winter, and in summer offer the most tempting and invigorating walks on their summits. The waters at the old and new Bath Hotels are warm (only 68°) and slightly tonic, and delightful to bathe in during the hot weather. Being charged with limestone-tufa the springs soon cover anything placed in them with a crust, or convert it into a stony substance.
BATHS .—The prices are, tepid swimming or shower bath, 1s.; hot bath, 2s. 6d. The waters are recommended in nervous disorders, and the first stage of consumption. As they contain much free carbonic acid, they may be drunk as a common beverage. Their sources are 2,000 or 3,000 feet down.
OBJECTS WORTH SEEING .—Walker’s and other geological museums, the petrifying wells, the Cumberland, Rutland, and Devonshire caves, the “romantic rocks,” &c., &c., the guides to which are exceedingly civil, unassuming, and reasonable.
There are numerous fine views in and about Matlock, but the most beautiful of all, and the crown and glory of all the magnificent scenery in Derbyshire, is the view from Stonnis. We stand on a large upheaved mass of sandstone rock having a perpendicular descent of 50 feet, beneath runs the Cromford and High Peak Railway, one of the oldest in the kingdom; from this point, such a prospect lies before us as can never properly be described; on the right are the hills of Crich, the woods of Lea and Holloway, the valley of the Derwent, threaded by rail, canal, road, and river, the sides of Riber sweeping over against Matlock. Willersley Castle, the seat of the Arkwrights, and Matlock Baths, with its white houses, craggy steeps, masses of intermingled rock and foliage, its spired church, and sparkling river, with Masson raising its proud head above them all. It is from Stonnis, and Stonnis alone, that Masson can be seen. while a little to the left beyond stands the High Tor, with its Titanic front. Still further beyond are the purple moors of Tansley, standing in relief, completing a picture of such beauty and grandeur as cannot be surpassed in England. The following are the principal Drives and Walks, with the prices of conveyance. Drives: 1. The Black Rocks, round by Middleton and via Gellia. 2. Wingfield Manor, and return by Old Matlock, 13s. 3. Router Rocks, Druidical remains, and Rocking Stone, 16s. 6d. 4. Haddon Hall, 13s.; Haddon Hall and Chatsworth, 21s.; Dove-Dale, 23s.; ditto pair of horses, 30s.; Lea Hurst, 6s. 6d. These charges include the driver. Walks: Willersley Grounds, Monday and Thursday. Lovers‗ walk, every day; Ferry, 3d. Heights of Abraham, entrance, 6d. Walker’s boat for a sail or row, 6d. each passenger.
MATLOCK BRIDGE station.
DARLEY —At Darley is a very old church (Norman) and yew coeval with it. Paper and cotton factories, the river being here turned to good account as a motive power.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Peacock.
OMNIBUSES to and from Bakewell and Chatsworth, to meet all trains. Fare, 6d.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Bakewell, 3 miles.
Greaves‗ Posting Establishment; Post Horses in readiness on arrival of every train.
HADDON HALL .—A romantic old hall, of the Elizabethan period, once the residence of Sir George Vernon, the “King of the Peak,” but now uninhabited. The fine old state bed; tapestry or Arras; pictures; carvings in wood; the Eagle tower gate; great Hall (the Martindale Hall, described in “Peveril of the Peak”); chapel; long gallery; kitchen gardens; Dorothy Vernon’s walk, terraces, &c., remain all kept in good condition.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Greaves‗ Rutland Arms.
Here are a fine old Church, where the Vernons and Rutland family are buried; an old cross, and excellent trout fishing in the Wye, which runs up through Monsal Dale; baths, chalybeate springs, marble works, &c. Population, 2,704.
From Bakewell the road ascends to Buxton, through one of the most stupendous valleys in Derbyshire, which contains a succession of some of the most remarkable Tors and wild picturesque views imaginable. It is, in fact, a magnificent ride, sublimely grand at all seasons.
HASSOP , LONGSTONE and MILLER ’S DALE stations.
POPOLATION , 1,877.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—St. Ann’s.
Old Hall; Wood’s Eagle; Shakspeare; Grove.
BUXTON is situated in the midst of one of the most picturesque parts of Derbyshire. The crescent is the principal building at Buxton. It was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, and has three stories, the lowest of which forms a colonnade. The crescent, extending 257 feet, is chiefly occupied by the St. Ann’s Hotel and family boarding-houses, in one of which is the public ball-room. Immediately opposite the hotel, and at the western angle of the hill, is St. Ann’s Well. The spring has been in use for centuries. The water is clear and tasteless, and possesses a stimulating property. There is a public bath for each sex, and two private plunge baths for gentlemen. and two for ladies. The temperature of the water at the spring is 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The slight sensation of chilliness experienced on first entering the bath is soon succeeded by an agreeable feeling of warmth, and on coming out, most persons find themselves refreshed and invigorated. Chronic gout and rheumatism are the principal disorders for which the course is usually taken. The bracing nature of the climate is, however, not the least efficacious of the remedial agents. The church, situated not far from the crescent, is neat and commodious. Opposite are the large stables of the Duke of Devonshire, built at a cost of £120,000. About a mile from Buxton is the cavern called Pool’s Hole, a magnet sufficiently potent of itself to attract crowds of tourists. The various singular forms in the cave have each their peculiar names; large stalactites are everywhere hanging from the roof, and the water is continually rushing past beside the feet of the spectators. Queen Mary’s pillar, so called from a visit that unfortunate queen made to the cavern during her sojourn at Buxton, is a lofty column formed by nature to support the roof, and is scratched with names innumerable. On account of the rapid transitions of temperature, and the bleakness of position, Buxton is more frequented during the summer months than at later periods of the year. Two miles from Buxton is the Diamond Hill, where the Buxton diamonds are found, and close by is a tower built by the Duke of Devonshire. There are various places in the vicinity that deserve a visit, such as Chee Tor, a huge mass of limestone rising above 300 feet perpendicular; Cressbrook; Monsal Dale; Ashford; Axe Edge; from which, in clear weather, the mountains of North Wales may be seen; and the Ebbing Well; situated five miles from Buxton, on the Castleton Road. Buxton is 160 miles from London, 10 from Macclesfield, 12 from Leek, 16 from Congleton, and 23 from Manchester.
Chatsworth, ten miles from Matlock or Chesterfield stations, near the Peak of Derbyshire, on the crystal Wye. Omnibuses from the Rowsley station (6d.) meet the train. This splendid seat of the Duke of Devonshire (who has the lease of the mines here from the crown), is called the Palace of the Peak, and may be seen daily from 11 to 5. Parties are let in by turns. Apply early if you want to save time.
A belt of moorland cliffs, richly wooded with pines, chesnut, beech, limes, sycamore, and other trees, and about 11 miles in circuit, surrounds the park and grounds, which are stocked with 2,000 head of deer. The best view of the house is from a point near the bridge, and Queen Mary’s Bower, where the old hunting tower is seen on the hills behind. A seat was begun by the founder of the family, Sir W. Cavendish (who was gentleman-usher to Wolsey, and wrote his life), about 1570, when he had the custody of Mary of Scotland here; and finished by his widow, a rich and clever woman, who married the Earl of Shrewsbury, her fourth husband. This was rebuilt in 1688-1706 by the first Duke, from designs by Wren, and now forms the principal building—a noble Grecian, or Italianised-Grecian pile, about 180 feet square, much in the style of the Governor’s house at Greenwich Hospital (another of Wren’s works), with a rustic base, Ionic columns, pilasters, frieze, and balustrade, ornamented by urns and statues. To the north is Wyatville’s new wing in the Grecian style, built of the variegated stone from Beely quarry. The terraces in front are 1,200 feet long. The Sub Hall at entering contains busts, &c., and leads through a corridor (closed with velvet hangings) to the Great Hall, with its marble floor. Here are paintings by Verrio and Laguerre (French artists, whose works figure at Hampton Court and elsewhere), a Turkish caique, a marble slab, 11 feet long, and an inscription stating that “These paternal halls were begun anno libertatis Anglicœ (year of the great Revolution, which the first Duke helped materially to bring about) and finished anno mœreus 1840” (when the Duke’s niece died). The State Rooms, 190 feet long, are full of cabinets, paintings, tapestries, &c., with alabaster doors, carved wainscot, mosaic oak floor. Some of the best of G. Gibbon’s wood carvings are seen here, especially a pen and a net of game in the Ante-Room. Vansomers’s portrait of the first Duke is in the Dining Room. The South galleries contain above 1,000 original drawings, by foreign masters, and cabinet pictures. Granet’s Monks at Prayer, is on the west stairs. In the Billiard Room—Landseer’s well-known “Bolton Abbey in the Olden Time,” and Eastlake’s Spartan Isadas. The Chapel is ornamented with paintings, Cibber’s Faith and Hope, in alabaster, &c.; the Communion table is a beautiful piece of malachite, from Russia. Music Room—Rembrandt’s “Jewish Rabbi,” Giardano’s “Neptune” and Murillo’s “Belisarius.” Grand Drawing Room, 45 feet long—portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, Henry VIII., Charles I., Philip II. (by Titian); marble tables, Bartolini’s Venus de Medicis, &c. North Staircase—portraits of George IV. by Lawrence, and the late Emperor Nicholas (who was here when archduke; in 1816, the duke was sent ambassador to him on his accession to the throne in 1826). Library, 90 feet long—carved mahogany doors and bookcases, marble mantel-piece. In the Dining Room are family portraits, marble slabs and chimney pieces. The Sculpture Gallery is extremely rich in original works, as well as casts, busts, marble tables, &c. Among others are Napoleon’s Mother—Madame Mère, as she was called—by Canova; Canova’s large bust of Napoleon; Pozzi’s Latina and her Children. Schadon’s Filatrice or Spinning Girl; Hebe, by Canova; Petrarch’s Laura, by the same; bronze copy of, his Kneeling Magdalene; Gibson’s “Man Cupid” (his first work from Rome), and “Hero and Leander;” Finelli’s “Cupid and the Butterfly” (i. e., Psyche, or the soul); Chantrey’s bust of Canning; Canteen’s granite vase, 20 feet round, &c. In the Orangery, further on, 108 feet long, are Thorwaldsen’s “Priam and Achilles,” and trees which belonged to the Empress Josephine. In one room is a very large enamel of Lady Southampton, 10 inches by 6, by Pettet. Over the Ball Room is a temple with a fine view of the park. All these rooms form a suite nearly 560 feet long, when the doors are thrown open.
Descending to the Green House, you pass two figures of Isis and Osiris, brought from the Great Temple at Carnac, by Mr. Bankes. The Water Works (by Grillet) are in the style of those at Versailles; one is shaped like a coffee tree; another throws a jet of 90 feet; and the great one, a jet of 200 feet. The Grand Conservatory is the chief ornament here; it is 300 feet long and 65 feet high, of metal and glass, from the designs of Sir Joseph Paxton, M.P., the late Duke’s celebrated gardener. His success here led him to offer a similar plan for the Great Exhibition, which being accepted, has been still further carried out in the Crystal Palace, and the Dublin and New York Exhibitions. A carriage drive and a railway run round it. Besides palms and other tropical plants, there is the large Victoria Regia, an immense piece of Blue John, or fluor spar, and Queen Victoria’s Oak, planted by Her Majesty when on a visit, in 1852. Also, Chesnuts, planted by the late Emperor of Russia, and the Duke of Kent. Marshal Tallard was on parole, Hobbs lived, and Christian VII. visited here in 1768.
Edensor Church is an old building, and has a fine monument of the first Earl of Devonshire. The cottages are in the Tudor, Swiss and other styles.
Within a few miles are—Ashford Hall, seat of Hon. — Cavendish, M. P., where black and grey marble are quarried. Eyam, its lead mines, and a rock called Cucklett Church, where its ancient rector, Mompesson, preached during the plague of 1666.
Distance from station, 1½ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—George.
MARKET DAYS .—Monday and Friday.
FAIRS .—Oct. 8th, Nov. 29th.
Here is the old Manor House, built by Lord Cromwell, in which the Queen of Scots was confined. In the vicinity are Crich Stand, Alfreton Hall, and Butterley Iron Works.
STRETTON .—In the vicinity is Ogston Hall, seat of G. Turbut, Esq.
CLAYCROSS . — Population, 3,501. Tupton Hall (where the great engineer, George Stephenson, died), Tupton Grove; Castle Hill, Wingerworth Hall, and Hasland House are close at hand. Clay Cross tunnel, near Chesterfield, is about 1,738 yards long, and the Milford tunnel, near Belper, is half a mile long.
POPULATION , 9,836.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Angel, and Commercial.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—Jan. 27th, Feb. 28th, 1st Saturday in April, May 4th, July 4th, Sept. 25th, and Nov. 25th.
RACES in April and September.
BANKERS .—Chesterfield and North Derby Banking Co. Crompton, and Co.; Robinson and Co.
CHESTERFIELD has greatly increased with the prosperity of the coal mines round it, and the improvement in its various manufactures. Here battles were fought in 1261 and 1643. The handsome early Gothic Church is surmounted by a spire 230 feet high. To the south-east of it (6 miles) is Hardwick Hall, a noble Elizabethan seat, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, finished in 1584, by the famous Countess Elizabeth. The picture gallery (full of historical portraits) is a magnificent apartment, lit by vast bay windows; and one room contains the bed worked by Queen Mary of Scotland, who was kept prisoner here.
STAVELEY station.
ECKINGTON .—In the vicinity are Renishaw Park and Barlborough Hall. Then passing WOODHOUSE MILL station we reach
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Crown.
POPULATION , 7,598.
Telegraph station at Masborough, 1 mile
HOTEL .—Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Monday.
FAIRS .—Every other Monday, Whit-Monday, and 1st December.
BANKERS .—Sheffield Banking Co.
Here is a large old church, and the Independent’s College. Sandstone is quarried here for the cutlers. In the vicinity are Aldwark Hall, Thrybergh Hall, and Ravenfield.
The HOLMES and BRIGHTSIDE stations.
This line forms the direct route to Doncaster. Retracing our steps by the Sheffield and Rotherham Branch, and passing MASBOROUGH station. The next in our course is
POPULATION , 4,374.
Telegraph station at Masbro‗, 2 miles.
Near to this station is Earl Fitzwilliam’s seat, Wentworth House, a noble pile, 600 feet long. Among other pictures is contained Vandyke’s Lord Strafford, one of his most striking portraits—the famous but ill-requited statesman, of Charles I.’s time. In the grounds stands the Rockingham Mausoleum, 90 feet high, with busts of Burke, Fox, and other leading Whigs of the last century. Coal is abundant all around here; and is sent by rail to London, &c.
KILNHURST station.
POPULATION , 3,190.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
Telegraph station at Mexborough, 1 mile.
HOTEL .—Railway.
Here is a large earthenware factory, and old church, with a Norman porch.
Mexborough Junction.
CONISBOROUGH .—Here is a castle belonging to the Duke of Leeds, built at the time of the Conquest, with a keep 78 feet high, in a good state of preservation.
SPROTBOROUGH .—In the vicinity is the Hall, seat of Sir J. Copley, Bart., built in the 17th century, and Cusworth Park, a beautiful place, is near at hand.
Doncaster.— See page 50 .
This line forms a communication from Sheffield with Barnsley, Doncaster, and Keadby. The first three miles of this is also over the Sheffield and Rotherham line; turning to the left at a place called Blackburn, we pass the stations of GRANGE LANE , CHAPELTOWN , WESTWOOD , BIRDWELL , DOVECLIFFE , and WOMBWELL , none of which need occupy much of the tourist’s attention. At this point, a short branch runs in a westerly direction through ARDSLEY to
BARNSLEY , of which particulars will be found on page 52 . There is also another branch from the same point running nearly parallel with that to Barnsley, through WORSBRO‗ , uniting the South Yorkshire with the Barnsley and Penistone branch at Silkstone.
Proceeding from Barnsley we pass the unimportant stations of WOMBWELL , WATH , MEXBOROUGH , and CONISBOROUGH , and arrive at
Doncaster.— See page 50 .
From Doncaster, we proceed through the stations of BARNBY DUN , BRAMWITH , and STAINFORTH , at the latter of which is a canal excavated in 1793, fifteen miles in length, and having only two locks. The line then goes on to
A telegraph station.
HOTEL —White Hart.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—Monday and Tuesday after June 11 and October 11.
This place contains a population of 2,591 engaged in the rope making, barge building, and carrying trades. The church of St. Nicholas is later English, at which De la Prime, the antiquary, was curate.
MAUD , MEDGE HALL , GODNOW BRIDGES , and CROWLE stations.
Keadby, a small town on the river Trent.
A telegraph station.
The next three stations, WATH , DARFIELD , and CUDWORTH , have no particular interest.
ROYSTON AND NOTTON .—In the vicinity are Chevet Hall, Lady Pilkington; and Walton Park, with its menagerie and collection, the seat of C. Waterton, Esq., the South American traveller.
OAKENSHAW .—In the vicinity is Heath Hall, seat of J. Smythe, Esq.
POPULATION , 563.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Normanton Station, Commercial.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Wakefield, 3 miles.
This is a station of growing importance, as being the junction of three extensive railway companies—the Midland, Lancashire and Yorkshire, and North Eastern. Many of the trains change carriages here.
METHLEY .—Here is an ancient church, with the Savile’s tombs. In the vicinity are Kippax Hall, seat of T. Bland, Esq., a noble range, partly Elizabethan; Ledstone Hall, H. Ramsden, Esq.; and Methley Park, Lord Mexborough’s.
WOODLESFORD .—In the vicinity are Templenewsam House, seat of H. Ingram, Esq., with fine collections of paintings and gems of vertu. Here Darnley, Mary Queen of Scots‗ husband, was born, when it belonged to the Lennoxes. The battlements round the roof make this inscription— “All glory and praise be given to God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, on high. Peace on earth, good-will to man. Honor and true allegiance to our gracious King; loving affection among his subjects; health and plenty within this house.” Swillington, Sir J. Lowther, Bart., near the old Gothic church. Harewood, Earl of Harewood. Farnley Park, W. Armitage, Esq.
HUNSLET station.
Telegraph station at Park Row and Railway Station, and 6, Bond Street.
HOTELS .—Scarborough; White Horse
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—July 10th and 11th, November 8th and 9th, and quarterly for leather.
BANKERS .—Becket and Co. W. W. Brown and Co. Branch Bank of England. Leeds Banking Co. Yorkshire Banking Co.
LEEDS . — This great seat of the cloth trade, and actual capital of Yorkshire, a parliamentary borough in the West Riding, with a population of 207,165, returning two members, stands on a hillside by the river Aire. The parish, about six or seven miles square, with its 18 or 20 townships, was formerly a moorland tract of little value, like the rest of Yorkshire, till the discovery of coal and iron enriched it by giving such a wonderful stimulus to the progress of manufactures. Several large factories and partnership mills are established in the borough. (so distinguished from the town, where there are but few); however, most of the cloth is made at home, by the hand-loom weavers, a respectable and industrious class, who carry on the business of dairy farming in addition to the loom. There may be 16,000 looms thus employed in the neighbourhood, of which only one-third are in the borough. Leeds is at the extremity of the great Yorkshire manufacturing district, which ends here so suddenly that few looms are found in the north half of the borough, which is purely agricultural. The wool having been prepared by the various processes of scouring, carding, and so forth, is handed over to the weaver, who works it on his loom, and then brings it in a rough state to the market to be sold to the finisher, in the form of mixed (or coloured) cloth, and white (or undyed) cloth. Saturday is the day for sale, which lasts under strict regulations one hour only, in which short space business to a vast extent is done with expedition and quietness. The Mixed Cloth Hall, in Wellington Street, is a quadrangular pile, 380 feet long, by 200 broad, and contains 1,780 freehold stalls, arranged in six streets. Before this hall was built, in 1758, cloth was sold in Briggate Street, and in the 17th century it was even exposed on the parapet of the old bridge (built, 1376). The White Cloth Hall, in Calls, built in 1775, is a similar structure, 300 feet long, with five streets, and about 1,200 stands.
Though stone is abundant, yet most of the houses are brick-built, the best of the kind being the Red House, which Charles I. had made his head quarters, when Fairfax, the parliamentary general, captured the town, in 1643. Leeds was then of so much importance that it returned members to the long parliament, a privilege which it was again deprived of till the Reform Bill. The modern public buildings are of stone. On Mill Hill, where the Lacys (who, after the Conquest, held a wide manor in Yorkshire) built their feudal castle, are the Commercial Buildings, including an Exchange and News Room, in the Grecian style, built in 1829. In front of the Court House, built in 1813, to replace the ancient Moot Hall, is Behnes’s statue of Peel, placed there in 1852, and standing 8½ feet high, on a pedestal of 20 feet. A marble statue of Queen Anne in the Corn Exchange; it formerly stood in the Moot Hall, at the head of Briggate. A splendid Corinthian building, to include Assize Courts and Public Hall (to hold 8,000 persons) was commenced in 1853, by C. Brodrick, on a base of 250 feet by 200, which will be approached by a flight of steps, and have a lofty spire, pedestals for statues, a portico of 10 columns, besides others round the sides, 65 feet high.
The large parish church of St. Peter, in Kirkgate, is a modern Gothic cross, rebuilt in 1840, 160 feet long, and contains sittings for nearly 4,000, with a picture of the Last Supper, and one of Greenwood’s organs. St. John’s, built in 1634, is now the oldest church. St. George’s was built in 1837, for £11,000. At Holbeck is a new church, built by Messrs. Marshall, near their great flax spinning factory, which is a peculiar construction in the Egyptian style, only one story high, but 400 feet long, resting throughout on many pillars. A new Puseyite church, with a tall spire, was opened in 1843. The Roman Catholic chapel of St. Anne has a pointed tower 150 feet high, and the Unitarian chapel near the Commercial Buildings is a handsome specimen of the same style; the two Wesleyan chapels here will hold 3,000 persons each. The Central Market in Duncan Street, cost £35,000. There are the Circular Leather and Free Market (a vast open space), besides many flax mills (which spin for the Irish market), dyehouses, and Messrs. Fairbairn’s manufactories.
Leeds has Public Baths, a Society for the encouragement of the Fine Arts, Music Hall, a Mechanics‗ Institute, to which is attached an excellent library (in union with others in the riding), Philosophical Societies, Museums, Libraries, &c.; also a General Infirmary, with a picture of “Jairus’s Daughter,” a Lying-in and other Hospitals, and an excellent Industrial School at Birmantofts, in the Elizabethan style, built in 1848. The Cavalry Barracks cover 10 acres; a Cemetery at Woodhouse Moor, 10 acres; Botanical Gardens, 20 acres. At Headingley, there is the old Shire Oak, which gives name to Skyrack Wapentake. There are six bridges, of which the Briggate is much the oldest, though altered by necessary restorations, Monk Bridge was the first suspended on the bow and string plan. The former, which is near the water works, the large Aire and Calder warehouses, leads over to Hunslet, and the latter to Holbeck. Several short ones cross the deep hollow of the Timble Beck, a stream from the north, which, after being joined by the Sheepscar Beck, falls into the Aire at the Lower Wear, near East Street, and is lined with dye-houses.
The Grammar School, founded as long ago as 1552, had Archbishop Pullen for its first master; he was one of the seven Yorkshiremen who about the same time rose to be archbishops. Here Dean Milner and his brother Isaac, sons of a weaver, were educated. The Saxons called the town Loidis, from which the modern name is formed. Penda, the savage King of Mercia, was defeated near this by the Northumbrians, in 655.
The Leeds Mercury, one of the best papers in the north of England, was first published in 1720.
ARMLEY station, near which is the Leeds Borough Gaol, and Armley Park, seat of Mrs. Gott. Population, 6,190.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Star.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Leeds, 3¼ miles.
In the neighbourhood is Kirkstall Abbey, founded by the Lacys in the 12th century, beautifully situated by the river. The lofty tower, doorway, and other remains of the church, half Norman in its style, with the Chapter-house, &c., are covered with ivy. The Grange, seat of the late W. Beckett, Esq., M.P.
NEWLAY and CALVERLEY stations.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—George and Dragon.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Shipley, 3¾ miles.
Here is a noble edifice for the education of the children of Wesleyan Ministers—Woodhouse Grove School.
SHIPLEY : Population, 7,100.
Telegraph station at 9, Leeds Road, and Piccadilly.
HOTELS . — Bowling Green, George, Sun, and Talbot.
CABS from the station and stands, 8d. per mile for two passengers, 1s. for more than two.
MARKET DAYS .—Monday and Thursday.
FAIRS .—March 3, June 9 and 11, December 9 and 11.
BANKERS .—Harris and Co.; Bradford Banking Co. Commercial Banking Co.; Branch of Yorkshire Banking Co.
This great seat of the worsted trade, 11 miles from Leeds, is finely placed among the Yorkshire hills, where three valleys and three branch rails meet, the Lancashire and Yorkshire, the Great Northern, and the Midland main line, traversing the valley down to the Aire. A parliamentary borough, returning two members. Population 106,218. One of the most beautiful spots in the picturesque scenery round Bradford is Shipley Valley on the Leeds line. Coal and iron are abundant; and the ironworks at Low Moor, Bowling, &c., are on a large scale; but the spinning and weaving of worsted form the staple branches of manufacture. Three centuries ago when Leland made his tour through England, as historiographer to Henry VIII., it “stood much by clothing,” like its Wiltshire namesake, and for this it is still noted. About 12,000 hands are employed in 180 mills. St. Blaize, the patron saint of woolcombers, whose effigy is still preserved at Blayzey Church in Cornwall, is here duly honoured by a festival in February every seven years. Many of his successful votaries in Bradford started at first as journeymen weavers. By suggesting improvements in the machines under their charge, they have brought themselves into notice, and are now at the head of large concerns. Alpaca cloth from the wool of the South American Llama was first manufactured here.
Woven stuffs are sold on Thursday and Monday, much of it is sold to Leeds and other buyers to be dyed. Most of the houses are of stone, roofed with brown slate. The Parish Church of St. Peter is a large later English building, with a monument by Flaxman. A new Court House has been lately erected, but the most striking building is St. George’s Music Hall, by Lockwood and Mawson, opened in 1853. It is in the Italian style, supported by Corinthian columns and pilasters, 75 ft. high, and contains a fine hall 152 ft. by 76, calculated to hold 3,350 persons. The cost was £21,000.
There are 54 places of worship here, of which 12 are Churches, and 24 Chapels. The Calvinistic Baptists have a College at Horton, and at Airedale is one for Independents. Newsrooms in the Exchange and Mechanics‗ Institution. A Grammar School of Edward VI.’s time.
Bowling Hall, the seat of W. Walker, Esq., is an old Elizabethan seat. Tong Hall, near Cutlar Height, seat of Col. Tempest. Manningham House, S. C. Lister Kay, Esq. Horton House, Mr. Thorpe. Undercliffe Hall, W. Garnett, Esq. Abraham Sharpe, the mathematician, was a native of Little Horton.
This is a short line from Bradford to Gilder-some and Ardsley. It passes through the stations of LAISTER DYKE , DUDLEY HILL , BIRKENSHAW , DRIGHLINGTON .
FAIRS .—January 26, February 26, Easter Thursday, and every other Thursday until Michaelmas (horse and cattle).
Close at hand is Adwalton Moor, where the Earl of Newcastle routed Fairfax in 1642.
The line passes through a district rich in mineral products, through GILDERSOME , MORLEY , and TINGLEY , to ARDSLEY , the junction of the Bradford, Wakefield, and Leeds line.
SHIPLEY station.
Telegraph station at Bradford, 2¼ miles.
This place owes its origin to the erection of an immense mill on the banks of the river Aire, by Titus Salt, Esq. The scale on which the various buildings have been erected are as complete as they are extensive, including as they do, houses for the work – people, chapel, &c., &c. Lockwood and Mawson were the architects.
POPULATION , 5,238.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Elm Tree, Fleece
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—January 25 to 27, August 2nd.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Shipley, 3¼ miles.
In the vicinity are St. Ives and Harden Grange, the old seats of the Ferrands, and Rumbolds Moor 1,808 feet high.
POPULATION , 15,000.
Distance from station, 1 mile. Telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Devonshire Arms at Bingley, 3¼ miles.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—May 8th and November 7th.
In the church is an antique tombstone, and a curious clock.
STEETON , KILDWICK , and CONONLEY stations.
POPULATION , 4,533.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Devonshire Arms.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—Every other Monday, March 25, Saturday before Palm and Easter Sundays, 1st and 3rd Tuesday after Easter, Whitsun Eve, August 5th, September 23rd, November 23rd.
DISTANCES OF PLACES FROM THE STATION .
| Miles. | |
| Barden Fell | 5½ |
| Beacon | 4 |
| Bolton Park | 7 |
| Bradley | 1¾ |
| Broughton | 3 |
| Broughton Hall | 2 |
| Burdenscales Tower | 7 |
| Carlton | 1 |
| Chelker | 5 |
| Cold Coniston | 6 |
| Cracow Hill | 6 |
| Draughton | 3½ |
| Embsay | 3 |
| Embsay Crag | 4 |
| Eshton Hall | 5½ |
| Eastby | 3½ |
| Eustby Fell | 6 |
| East Halton | 4½ |
| Gargrave | 3½ |
| Hatton Height | 4½ |
| Holme Bridge | 3½ |
| Newton Bank | 5 |
| Newton Grange | 4½ |
| Rilston | 5½ |
| Rilston Fell | 6 |
| Roman Cross | 4½ |
| Silsden | 4½ |
| Skibden | 1½ |
| Skipton Castle | 1¼ |
| Skipton Lodge | 1¾ |
| Skipton Priory | 1½ |
| Strid, The | 6½ |
| Sturton | 1½ |
| Thimblethorpe Hall | 2 |
| Thorltby | 1¾ |
| Turn | 2¾ |
The old church and tombs of the Cliffords, and the castle built at the Conquest, and rebuilt by the celebrated Countess of Pembroke (in which the “Shepherd Lord,” Henry Clifford, was concealed after the Battle of Towton), should be visited. It has a Grammar School, founded as far back as 1568.
Lies about six miles to the north – east of Skipton, most charmingly situated on the banks of the river Wharfe Indeed, the picturesque character of this and the surrounding districts is peculiarly striking and impressive. The priory was originally founded in 1121, at Embsay, by William de Meschines, but afterwards removed to its present situation by his daughter Adeliza, in memory of the loss of her son, who, in attempting to cross the “Strid,” a chasm in the rock through which the Wharfe rushes, about a mile from the abbey, was fearfully precipitated and drowned. The Duke of Devonshire has a hunting seat formed out of one of the entrances to the abbey.
Passing GARGRAVE , BELL BUSK , HELLIFIELD (near which is Hellifield Peel, the seat of J. Hammerton, Esq., the descendant of Helge, the Saxon), and LONG PRESTON stations, we arrive at
POPULATION , 1,586.
Distance from station, 1¼ mile.
Telegraph station at Skipton, 15¼ miles.
HOTEL .—Golden Lion.
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—April 26, Whit Tuesday, August 18 and 20, Tuesday after October 27, every Tuesday from Easter to Whit Sunday, and every alternate Monday.
A small market town in the Vale of the Ribble, at the top of the West Riding of Yorkshire, among the mountains at the back-bone of England. From Leeds it is 42 miles, and 24 from Lancaster, the two being united by a line held by the North Western and Midland Companies.
It contains cotton and paper works, but no remarkable building. Formerly there was a fort on a cliff above the town, called Castleberg, whence you have a view of Ingleborough, Pennigant, and other mountains. Here Dr. Birkbeck, the philosopher, was born in 1776; after whom schools have been established in which a general education is given, without regard to religious dogmas. He was the founder of the London Mechanics‗ Institution. There are distinct market days for fat and lean cattle, the pasture being excellent. At Giggleswick, across the river, is the mother church; a Grammar school, in which Paley was educated, and an intermittent spring.
Various EXCURSIONS may be made. Over the moors to Malham Cove (5 miles), a limestone ridge, nearly 300 feet high, over which there is a good waterfall in rainy weather. A little further is Malham Tarn, a small lake at the river Aire’s head, only 4 miles round, yet the largest in Yorkshire, Kettlewell, 7 miles further, is a mountain village, at the head of the Wharfe. Great Whernside, above it, is a mountain, 2,225 feet high. Down the Ribble are Gisburn Park, the seat of Lord Ribblesdale, where there is a rare breed of hornless wild cattle, all white, except the tips of their noses. At Bolton are the boots and gloves of Henry VI., who found a hiding place hero after the battle of Hexham. This corner of Yorkshire was part of Bolland, or Bowland Forest, of which the Parkers of Browsholme, are hereditary keepers. Up the Ribble, above Settle, are Horton (4 miles), in the neighbourhood of Penygant, a mountain, 2,270 feet high; and further up the head of Castleberg, between Ingleborough (2,360 feet high), Whernside (2,885 feet), Cam Fell (1,925 feet), and other elevated peaks. Hence there are roads to Hawes (over Newby Head pass), and to Sedbergh (up Dent Dale).
CLAPHAM , a station situated in the midst of a large moorland parish, of which, among other plants, the poisonous Hub Christopher (actœa spicata ) is indigenous, and is occasionally given in nervous complaints.
A portion of the Lancaster and Carlisle line here turns off to the right, by which the route to the north from the Midland districts becomes much shortened.
Situated on the river Creta, at the foot of Ingleton Fall and Ingleborough. Here are the Yordas and other romantic caves, in limestone, of the moors; and at Thornton Scar, which is 300 feet high, there is a waterfall, 90 feet down. Ingleborough, which is best ascended on this side, is green to its summit, which is usually clouded in mist, but when the weather is clear, there is a splendid view over Lancashire and Cumberland and the sea beyond.
A pretty little town on the Lune, here spanned by an old painted bridge of three arches. The church stands on the top of a hill, the views from which are very fine. Population, 1,727.
BARBON , MIDDLETON , and SEDBERGH stations.
Low GILL , the junction with the line to the north, for continuation of which, see page 61 , Section III .
HIGH BENTHAM and WENNINGTON stations, near the latter of which is Wennington Hall, a fine old seat.
Telegraph station at Lancaster, 8½ miles.
FAIRS .—Every other Tuesday, and July 30th.
Here is Hornby Castle, the old seat of Lord Monteagle, to whom the letter about the Gunpowder Plot was sent; now the property of P. Dawson, Esq.
CATON STATION .—The view of the Lune here is exceedingly pretty. Population, 1,434.
HALTON station, in the neighbourhood of which is Quernmoor Park, seat of the late W. Garnett, Esq.
LANCASTER .—See Section III ., page 56 .
Telegraph station at Lancaster, 3½ miles.
HOTEL .—North Western.
Morecambe station and harbour, from whence steamers sail, occasionally, during the season, to Piel.
Morecambe Bay is a fine sheet of water, 8 or 10 miles wide, when the tide is up; but at low tide its quicksands are extremely treacherous, and must on no account be crossed without the guide, who is paid by Government, and carries you over in a cart from Poulton-le-Sands, to the opposite coast of Furness—a region of fells, vallies, lakes, &c., in the north, but flat and broken by the sea, in the south or Lower Furness, where the beautiful remains of the Abbey may be visited. Near Dalton, Walney island light-house, and the old peel or tower of Foudray, built by the Abbots for a watch tower, are in view.
Having now completed our tour through the midland districts, we retrace our steps to the Metropolis of the British Empire, and continue our course through the
THE terminus of the Great Eastern Railway is situated at the end of Bishopsgate-street, from which it is separated by a lofty iron railing and gates. Passing through the “Way In” we enter an interior court, extending round each side of the terminus, the road up the ascent to the left leading to the booking offices, and that to the right to the platform of the arrival trains. The terminus is built on an elevation, and is one of the handsomest (externally) in London.
Threading our course through the labyrinth of streets which present themselves in this part of London, the train, after clearing the station at MILE END , soon emerges from the gloom consequent thereon, upon a purer and more congenial atmosphere. Leaving Victoria Park a little to our left, we pass the North London station at Bow, about half a mile beyond which we cross the river Lea, and enter the county of
A maritime county, bounded on the north by Suffolk and Cambridgeshire, on the west by the counties of Hertford and Middlesex, on the south by the river Thames, and on the east by the sea. Essex composes part of that tract of country on the eastern side of England, which forms the largest connected space of level ground in the whole island; not one lofty eminence or rocky ridge being found in several contiguous counties. The surface of Essex is not, however, totally flat, having many gentle hills and dales; and towards the north-west, from which nearly all the rivers proceed, the country rises, and presents a continued inequality. The coast is broken into a series of islets and peninsulas, deeply cut in by arms of the sea. Extensive salt marshes border most of it, the greater part of which is protected by embankment.
POPULATION , 15,994.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—The Swan.
OMNIBUSES to and from London every five minutes.
This station forms an important junction of the lines to Cambridge, Ipswich, Tilbury, and places on the North London Railway. Here a collier dock of 600 acres is being constructed. At West Ham are distilleries, Gutta Percha factories, and the gate of an abbey.
This is a line 7¾ miles long, skirting the borders of Epping Forest, in which Queen Elizabeth was accustomed to engage in the stag hunt. Modern times, however, have greatly changed its aspect; still it has its attractions for the lover of picnics.
LOW LEYTON station.
LEYTONSTONE , near to which Roman, &c., remains have been discovered. The church is very old; it has the tomb of Strype, the antiquary.
SNARESBROOK AND GEORGE LANE stations.
WOODFORD , a place affording a quiet retreat to the citizens of London, after the toils of business. In the churchyard is a yew tree of immense circumference.
BUCKHURST HILL station.
Loughton, a small town near the river Roding. Loughton Hall, remarkable as being once the residence of Queen Anne, is in the vicinity.
The next station on leaving STRATFORD is
Distance from station, ½ mile.
Telegraph station at Stratford, 2½ miles.
HOTELS .—Horse and Groom, and Greyhound.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Stratford, 2¼ miles.
A favourite resort of the London anglers.
POPULATION , 13,240.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—White Hart.
The collection of Turner’s drawings, &c., belonging to the late F. Windus, Esq., can be viewed on Mondays. The Hermitage, near the old wooden cross, was Izaak Walton’s delight. Bruce Castle (a school kept by the Messrs. Hill), stands on the site of a house which belonged to King Robert Bruce’s father.
PARK LANE station.
WATER LANE follows immediately after, important only as being the junction of the
This railway was, at first, projected by a few spirited inhabitants at Enfield, but after the bill was obtained arrangements were made with the Eastern Counties (now Great Eastern) Co., who became proprietors of the line, and by whom it was constructed. It is about three miles in length, nearly on a level, and the curves are favourable and unfrequent.
POPULATION , 10,930.
Telegraph station at Water Lane Junction, 1 mile.
HOTELS —Bell (Johnny Gilpin’s famous Inn); Angel.
FAIRS .—St. Giles‗ and Ascension Days, at Beggar’s Bush.
Lord Burleigh, President Bradshaw, Drs. Fothergill and Taylor (a native), resided here. In the vicinity are Culland’s Grove, Sir W. Curtis, Bart., Pymmes, Theobalds, Bury Hall, and Bush Hill Park (here are some of Gibbon’s carvings).
POPULATION , 12,424.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Enfield Arms.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE .
ENFIELD is a market town in the county of Middlesex. It contains part of an ancient royal palace, in which Edward IV. held his court before he removed to London. Enfield was formerly celebrated on account of its Chase, which comprised a large tract of woodland well stocked with deer, but during the civil wars it was stripped of both game and timber. It was disforested in 1779. The environs of Enfield are exceedingly pretty, and the scenery quite picturesque. The church is a fine building which has undergone many repairs. It contains brasses of the 14th centuary, of the Smith’s, Earl Tiptoft’s wife, Lord Roos, Raynton, and Stringers. Charles Lamb is buried here. At Enfield House (a school), are remains of Queen Elizabeth’s Palace. In the vicinity are Forty Hall, built by Inigo Jones, Trent Place, R. Bevan, Esq., Beech Hill, A. Paris, Esq., South Lodge (willed to the great Lord Chatham), East Lodge, West Lodge. Gough, the antiquary, lived and died here. Jeffreys lived at Durant. White Webbs House was frequented by the Gunpowder Plotters. At Camlet Moats Dick Turpin lived. At Enfield Wash lived the notorious perjurer, Eliza Canning, tried in 1753. A visit should be made to the Government Arms Factory, an order for which must be previously obtained from the Ordnance Office, London. Elsynge Hall, where Edward IV. held his court, which was visited by Queen Elizabeth, and given by her to the Cecils, was near Forty Hall.
PONDER ’S END .—In the vicinity is the old seat of the Earls of Lincoln.
ORDNANCE FACTORY .
POPULATION , 5,044.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Four Swans.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Waltham Cross, 1 mile.
WALTHAM ABBEY is a market town in the county of Essex, standing on the banks of the river Lea, surrounded on several sides by fruitful gardens and meadow land. The town is irregularly built, but of great antiquity. It derives its name from its once stately abbey, erected by Harold, sonof Earl Godwin. This edifice has almost entirely passed away, but enough remains to show the magnificence of design and elaborate finish of the buildings. In the vicinity is Waltham Cross, one of the fifteen erected by Edward I., to Queen Eleanor’s memory; Theobald’s Park, Sir H. Meux, Bart., where James I., Charles I., and Lord Burleigh resided; the Government Powder Mills; the remains of a monastery founded by Canute, in which Harold, the last Saxon King, was buried. Cranmer resided here. Copper Hall, H. Conyers, Esq., and Epping Forest.
CHESHUNT station, near which is Cheshunt House (Wolsey’s seat), Sir G. Prescott, Bart., and Lady Huntingdon’s College. Here Richard Cromwell died (under the name of Clark), in 1712.
POPULATION , 765.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—New; Gun.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Hoddesden, 1 mile.
Here is a good flint church, with pillared font, and brasses of the Sayes, Borrels, Cocks and Monsons. At Broxbourne Bury, the seat of the Bosanquets, Sir II Cock entertained James I. In the vicinity is Wormley, the seat of the Earl of Brownlow, with its old church. At Hoddesden, is a college for farmers (here Izaak Walton ruralised), and the old gate of Rawdon house.
RYEHOUSE (the scene of the Ryehouse plot in 1683), and ST . MARGARET ’S stations.
POPULATION , 5,002. A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Saracen’s Head (here is shown the “Bed of Ware,” of carved oak, 12 feet square, dated, 1460).
COACHES to and from Buntingford, daily.
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesdays and Mondays.
FAIRS .—Last Tuesday in April, and Tuesday before September 21st.
BANKERS .—London and County Bank; Unity Bank, Head Offices, London.
This is a market town in the county of Hertford, built on the banks of the river Lea. It originally contained two ecclesiastical edifices, of which, however, but few traces remain. The old church, with a timbered roof, has an old font and brasses, one to Ellen Cock, dated 1450 (the oldest Arabic date in England); and effigies of D. Amory, Clure, Bouchier, and Fanshaw, the poet, and Dr. Mead, who died in 1652, aged 148 years. Here a tournament was held in 1242, at which the Earl of Pembroke was killed. It contains about 75 malt houses, and is the largest malting district in England. In the vicinity are Ware Priory, Mrs. Hadeley. Ware Park, W. Parker, Esq.; and Ware Hill House, Major Ware. At Amwell, is a small island, with a monument to Sir Hugh Myddleton, who finished the New River in 1613. In the church are buried, Reed, the editor of Shakspeare. Scott, the Quaker poet, lived at Amwell Place. Izaak Walton and Hoole lived here.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Salisbury Arms.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—May 12th, July 5th, and November 8th.
BANKERS .—London and County Bank; Unity Bank, Head Offices, London.
HERTFORD , capital of Hertfordshire, close, to an old ford on the river Lea, where Ermine Street crossed it. Population 6,769. It is a small, irregularly-built country town, with some trade in grain and malt, and remains of a royal castle or palace, which having been modernised, is now turned into a school. A tower or two of the original structure may be noticed. Here John of Gaunt had the custody of two captive monarchs. One was his father’s (Edward III.) prisoner, the king of France, taken at the battle of Poictiers, in 1356; and the other was David of Scotland, who was captured in 1346, at the battle of Nevill’s Cross, by Queen Philippa, while her husband was in France. Afterwards it became the seat of several queens-consort, one of whom was Henry VI.’s wife, Queen Margaret; and the retreat of Elizabeth, when a plague drove the court and judges out of London. A branch of Christ’s Hospital, or the blue-coat school, consisting of 500 or 600 of the younger children, is stationed here in a large quadrangular pile. The Sessions House and Town Hall are united in one building. The County Gaol is a fine large edifice. There is an old cross-shaped church, with a low spire, a fine corn market and prison, but nothing else remarkable.
A great number of seats are situated about this part of the country. Balls, the Marquis of Townshend. Brickendonbury, W. Dent, Esq. Bayfordbury, W. Baker, Esq., has a famous gallery of the Kit-Cat-Club portraits, all by Kneller; among them are those of Marlborough, Sir R. Walpole, Addison, Steele, &c. Ware Park, W. Parker, Esq., near Ware Priory. Chadwell, at Amwell, is at the head of the New River, which was cut between 1607 and 1613, by Sir Hugh Myddleton, and runs by a serpentine course, 36 miles, to Clerkenwell. Theobalds, seat of Sir J. Prescott, is on the site of Lord Burleigh’s seat, to which Elizabeth came frequently to hunt. Here James I. died, in 1625. Panshanger, seat of Earl Cowper, in a charming park; a Madonna by Raphael is here. Bedwell Park, seat of Sir C. Eardley, Bart. Brocket Hall, the seat of Viscount Melbourne, where the late premier died, Tewin House belongs to Earl Cowper. In the churchyard is the tomb of Lady Grimstone, which the ash trees growing from beneath have displaced in a most singular manner. There is a silly story connected with it. Knebworth Park, Sir B. Lytton, Bart., M.P., the distinguished novelist. Hoo Park, Lord Dacre’s seat. Woodhall Park, J. Abel Smith, Esq., M.P., the banker.
(Great Northern.)
By means of this cross line from Hertford to Dunstable, the Midland and Eastern Counties districts are rendered much easier of access. The line takes a north-westerly direction, passing the stations of HERTINGFORDBURY and COLE GREEN , calling at
HATFIELD , to take up or set down passengers to or from the north or south. Described page 41 .
WHEATHAMSTEAD .—This was the place of meeting of the barons, to oppose Edward II.
HARPENDEN .—Church cruciform; has monuments to the family of the Cresseys, to whom the place formerly belonged.
NEW MILL END station.
POPULATION , 15,329.
Another town of straw plaiters. The Gothic church, built of chalk and flints, deserves notice. Luton Hoo, the fine seat of the Leighs. Hoo or Hoe means hill, and Luton Lea Town, probably from being at the source of the Lea; Ivinghoe lies among the hills. Ashridge, seat of Earl Ellesmere.
Dunstable, see Sec. III ., page 7 .
Leaving Broxbourne, a distance of 7 miles brings the tourist beyond the stations of ROYDON and BURNT MILL to
POPULATION , 2,377.
Distance from station, ¾ mile
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—George; New (at the Railway Station).
FAIR .—September 9th, for horses, called Harlow Bush Fair.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE .
In the vicinity is Otes, the seat of the celebrated Mrs. Masham (Queen Anne’s favourite). Here died Locke, in 1784; and Laver church.
SAWBRIDGEWORTH station.
POPULATION , 4,673.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Railway, George.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday. FAIRS .—October 11th, Holy Thursday, and Thursday after Trinity Sunday.
MAILS .—Three arrivals and departures, daily, between London and Bishop’s Stortford.
A small market town in Hertfordshire, placed on the side of a hill, near the western borders of Essex. The streets are disposed in the form of a cross, with two long streets intersecting each other at right angles Though no particular manufacture is carried on here, yet the town is respectable and populous. Seated in the midst of a corn country, it is remarkable for the number of its malthouses, and for the quantity of malt annually made here. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a large lofty structure, standing on the highest ground in the neighbourhood, and contains many monuments. Here Bonner roasted a martyr, on Goose Green. In the vicinity are Euston, seat of Viscount Maynard, and Dunmow, famous for the gammon of bacon gifts to married people, who have lived in peace 366 days
STANSTEAD MOUNTFICHET .—In the vicinity are Quendon Hall, the seat of Mrs. Cranmer, descendant of the Archbishop’s family, and Ugley Church, with its steeple.
ELSENHAM station.
NEWPORT .—In the vicinity is Debden, Sir F. Vincent, Bart
POPULATION of Saffron Walden, 5,474.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Cross Keys, Rose and Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—Saturday before Midlent Sunday, the following Monday, August 3rd, Nov. 1st and 2nd.
BANKERS .—London and County Bank, J. Viall, Esq., Manager.
Close to the station is the magnificent seat of Lord Braybrooke, Audley End, which cost upwards of £200,000, built on the site of Saffron Walden Priory, full of portraits, &c.; the bridge by Adams, in the grounds, is beautifully built. Here is the Hon. R. Nevill’s Museum.
CHESTERFORD .—Antiquities abound in this vicinity, the most remarkable of which is a villa uncovered in 1848, by The Hon. R. Nevill.
THE whole of this extensive county is penetrated by artificial drains, and every exertion is made by the landed proprietors to redeem as much ground as possible from its former swampy condition. Cambridgeshire is remarkably flat, the great Bedford level alone containing 400,000 acres of land. The climate varies considerably. Cambridgeshire is an agricultural county; grain, hemp, flax, mustard seed, osiers, &c., are grown in great abundance.
WHITTLESFORD .—The ancient chapel near the bridge was founded before the time of Edward I. In the vicinity is Thriplow Heath, where, after Charles I.’s capture, Cromwell and Fairfax held a council. Large oil mills are established here, for crushing seed, and making oilcake for cattle.
SHELFORD , at which traces of Roman remains have been discovered. Close at hand are the Gogmagog Hills, seat of Lord Godolphin, with a camp.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Bull, family and commercial, and posting house; Red Lion, commercial and family, and posting house; Eagle, family and commercial.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—June 24th; Sept. 25th.
BOAT RACES from Ditton Church to Chesterton, every term.
BANKERS .—Thos. Fisher and Sons; J. Mortlock and Sons; C. F. and G. E. Foster; Branch of the London and County Bank.
The capital of Cambridgeshire, and seat of one of the two ancient English Universities. The University of Cambridge is second to no other in Europe in any single department of literature; but in one (mathematics) she has no rivals. The Cam, a branch of the Nene, runs through it, hence the name, which is not unlike the Roman name Cambricum. The houses are brick, the ground flat (a part of the great Fen Level). On approaching the town, whether by rail or otherwise, the first object that meets the eye is the magnificent Chapel of King’s College, its lofty turrets being seen at the distance of some miles. Population, 26,361, including above 7,000 persons attached to the University, which is represented by two members in parliament, two more being sent by the town. The buildings are of three classes, those belonging to the Town, the University, and the 17 Colleges and Halls comprising the University, the last being merely a name for the body corporate, and serving to indicate the universality of the provision made for teaching any branch of learning. Most of the colleges, &c., are in Trumpington and the neighbouring streets, on or not far from the river.
There are fourteen parish churches, and about the same number of places of worship belonging to various dissenting bodies. Among the town buildings are 16 churches (out of 25 places of worship); the Town Hall in the Market Place, near the conduit, built by old Hobson the carrier and horse-letter, from whom originated the saying of “Hobson’s choice, this or none.” The market-place has lately been repaved with granite cubes; and by the restoration of Hobson’s Conduit, which is now placed in the centre, presents an object of uniformity and elegance. The Shire Hall and prison, on Castle Hill (a good view here), where the Conqueror built a fortress to overawe the stubborn defenders of the Isle of Ely. Addenbrooke’s General Hospital and the New Cemetery. The church of St. Andrew the Great, of stone, has a monument to Cook the navigator, whose widow died here in 1835. St. Andrew the Less is near Barnwell Priory, a foundation as old as the 11th century. The Abbey Church, in Barnwell Priory, a very ancient foundation, has recently been restored and appropriated for worship as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew the Less, rendered necessary through the greatly increased population of the parish. St. Benedict’s, St. Clement’s, and St. Peter’s, are in part very ancient. St. Sepulchre’s is a curious round church, originally built by the Templars, and lately restored. At St. Mary the Great, a perpendicular English church, the University Sermons are preached. Some of the oldest houses are in Petty Cury.
The University, according to some accounts, was founded as far back as the year 630, but if so, it made no figure till the Abbots of Croy sent monks to give lectures here in 1209. The oldest college (Peter House) dates from 1257. The University Buildings, as distinct from the colleges, are as follows. Senate House, with a hall 101 feet long, where degrees are conferred, and the late Prince Albert was installed Chancellor, in July 1849, in presence of the Queen. The narrow oak galleries are for the graduates. Public Schools, forming a quadrangle, with the University Library overhead, in which are many rare books and MSS. A copy of every printed book is given to it. New Library, 167 feet long, with a collection of minerals on the basement floor. University or Pitt Press, a modern building, by Blore, with a tower like a church. Further on in Trumpington Street, is the Fitzwilliam Museum, with its lions and beautiful portico, 75 feet high; a collection of paintings, casts, &c., was left with a bequest of £100,000, by Lord Fitzwilliam to rebuild it.
The Colleges, with a few exceptions, were founded and built before the 16th century; but additions have been made of later date. Each includes a chapel, common hall for meals, generally adorned with portraits, library, apartments for the masters (or Dons) fellows, &c. Their total income is about £150,000. There are 430 fellows, i.e., seniors, with a settled income, and mostly residents. One walk should be along the river at the back of St. John’s, Trinity, King’s, &c.
The colleges in alphabetical order are the following:—
CATHERINE HALL , in Trumpington Street, founded in 1475. A quadrangle or quad, rebuilt in 1700. Bradford the martyr, and Archbishop Sandys, were of this college.
CHRIST ’S COLLEGE , in St. Andrew’s Street, founded in 1442, and refounded in 1506, by Henry VI.’s half-sister, the lady Margaret. Two courts, one rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Beautiful gardens, and Milton’s mulberry tree. Milton was called the “lady” of Christ’s College.
CLARE HALL , near King’s College, in Trumpington Street, founded in 1326, and refounded by one of the Clare family. Court, rebuilt in 1638, in the Italian style, with good chapel. Old bridge over the Cam.
CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE , in Trumpington Street, founded in 1351, street front, 222 feet long. Two courts, one rebuilt in 1823, by Wilkins; library and good chapel. Portraits of Erasmus, Wolsey, Sir T. More, John Foxe, &c. Old Father Latimer was of this college.
DOWNING COLLEGE , near the station, founded as late as 1807, by Sir J. Downing. One part of a court is finished. Gardens and extensive grounds.
EMMANUEL COLLEGE , in St. Andrew’s Street, founded in 1584. Two courts, good hall, and pleasant gardens. Archbishop Sancroft’s books in the library He was of this college; and Gulliver graduated here, according to Swift’s account.
GONVILLE AND CAIUS , called Key’s College, in Trumpington Street, founded partly by Edward Gonville, in 1348, and partly by Queen Mary’s physician, Dr. Caius, in 1557. Three courts in the Italian style, with three gates in succession leading into them, named Humility, Virtue, and Honour, Jeremy Taylor, who was born at Cambridge in 1605, Harvey, the physician, and Lord Thurlow were gradates.
JESUS COLLEGE , in Jesus Lane, founded in 1496. on the site of a nunnery, the chapel of which, lately restored by Mr. Sutton, remains. Old Hall, three courts, behind a front of 180 feet, gardens, &c. Cranmer, Sterne, Coleridge, &c., were of this college.
KING ’S COLLEGE , founded in 1441. by Henry VI., consists of a provost and seventy fellows and scholars, the latter supplied by a regular succession from Eton. Two modern courts, hall, and the beautiful later English chapel, built 1441. This is 316 feet long by 84 wide, with small octagonal owers at the corners, 146 feet high to the little domes. The interior contains work at which Sir C. Wren was never tired of looking. Bishop Cloos or Close was the designer. The exquisite fan-tracery roof is in twelve parts, all of carved stone, unsupported by a single column; and twenty-four richly stained windows run down the sides between the buttresses, each about 50 feet high.
MAGDALENE COLLEGE , in Bridge Street, founded by the Duke of Buckingham and Lord Audley in 1502-42. Two courts, many old books and ballads in the library.
PEMBROKE COLLEGE , in Trumpington Street, founded in 1343, by the Countess of Pembroke. Two small ancient courts; water works in the gardens; and a tin globe 18 feet diameter; chapel built by Sir Christopher Wren. Bishop Ridley, Spencer, Gray, and Pitt, were of this college.
QUEEN ’S COLLEGE .—Founded by the two queens, Margaret of Anjou, consort of Henry VI., in 1448, and Elizabeth Woodville, consort of Edward IV., 1465. Three old courts, with cloisters, lately restored. Erasmus, the Greek Professor, was of this college. His portrait and walk in the gardens are shown.
ST .JOHN ’S COLLEGE , in St. John’s Street, founded in 1508, by Henry VII.’s mother, the Lady Margaret, (who also founded Christ’s College). Three old Tudor brick courts on one side of the Cam, and a modern Gothic pile on the other side, by Rickman, in 1830. They are joined by a covered bridge of one arch, called the Bridge of Sighs, and various other comical names. Chapel and library, both 150 feet long; old hall; fine gardens. Lord Burleigh, Prior, Ben Jonson, Wordsworth, Bishop Beveridge, Kirke White, Wilberforce, &c., were of this college, which is the great rival to Trinity, and turns out most senior wranglers.
PETERHOLME OR ST . PETER ’S COLLEGE , in Trumpington Street, is the oldest of all, dating from 1257, and founded by Bishop de Balsham. Two old courts, and a modern one built in 1826; the old chapel is curious.
SIDNEY SUSSEX COLLEGE , called Sidney, in Sidney Street, was founded in 1598, by Frances Sydney, Countess of Sussex. Two modernized courts. A portrait and bust of Cromwell, who graduated here. He was a gambler then, and a “fast” man, though a hard reader at times. In 1642, when he sat for the town, and the civil war broke out, he seized the University plate to pay expenses.
TRINITY COLLEGE , in Trumpington Street, was founded by Henry VIII. in 1540, in place of two earlier halls, and ranks the first in consideration. It is customary for the Master of Trinity (now Dr. Whewell) to entertain the Sovereign on the occasion of a visit to Cambridge. Three courts, one being nearly a quarter of a mile round, with a conduit, worth notice; ancient Tudor hall, timber roof, 102 feet long, with numerous portraits; large and beautiful gardens, with an avenue of tall elms. Famous library, 190 feet long, in which are Roubiliac’s busts of Newton, Bacon, &c.; wood carvings of Gibbons, Thorwaldsen’s statue of Byron, Newton’s telescope, Milton’s MS. of Sampson Agonistes, &c. Newton, Bacon, Raleigh, Dryden, Barrow, Porson, Bentley, and Byron, were of Trinity. Here Byron kept his pet bear, “training him,” as he said, “for a fellowship at St. John’s,” the rival college.
TRINITY HALL , founded in 1350, for lawyers, is near Trinity College. Bishop Horsley, Lord Chesterfield, and Bilney the Martyr were graduates. The front of this college has been recently burnt down and rebuilt.
The Observatory is outside the town, on the Madingley Road. Parker’s Piece, the graduates‗ cricket ground, is in Regent Street. All students go about the town in costume, i.e., a cap and gown—the latter being differently cut for each college. Grave proctors, attended by “bull-dogs,” are appointed to look after delinquents, while taxors see to the markets. Butter is sold by the yard in Cambridge, that is, a pound is rolled out into a stick of that length, for the convenience of cutting off “butters” for the students.
After passing in succession the stations of FULBOURN , SIX MILE BOTTOM , (near which is Hare Park, seat of W. Portman, Esq.), and DULLINGHAM , we arrive at
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Rutland Arms; Stars.
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—Whit Tuesday and November 8th.
RACES .—Easter Monday (Craven); 2nd and 4th Mondays after (first and second spring); July; Monday before 1st Thursday in October; 1st October, 2nd October, 3rd October, or Houghton.
BANKERS .—Eaton, Hammond, and Son; Forster and Co.
A market town in the county of Cambridge, with a population of 4,069, long celebrated in the annals of horsemanship for its extensive heath, in the immediate vicinity of which has been formed one of the finest race-courses in the kingdom. The principal part of New-market is situated in Suffolk; but the whole of the race course, on whose attractive charms its support mainly depends, is in Cambridgeshire. Most of the houses are modern and well built; and many of them, which have been erected as residences for the nobility and private gentlemen who attend the races, are extremely handsome. The church contains a tomb to Frampton, trainer to Queen Anne and George I. and II. Bishop Merks, and Harewood the physician, were natives.
KENNET , HIGHAM , and SAXHAM stations.
POPULATION .—13,318.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Angel; Bell.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—October 2nd and December 1st.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE .
BANKERS .—Oakes, Bevan, and Co.; John Worlledge and Co.; National Provincial Bank of England; Harvey and Hudsons.
An old Saxon town and parliamentary borough, situated in so healthy a spot that it has been called the Montpelier of England, in a beautiful part of West Suffolk, founded by Canute along with an abbey, to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmund, a King of East Anglia, by the Danes, in the year 870. This became one of the largest and most richly endowed monasteries in the kingdom, being “505 feet long and 212 wide, with twelve chapels and churches, cloisters, offices, &c., attached, forming a little town in itself. The abbot was mitred, and reigned over an establishment of monks, chaplains, and servants, amounting to 200. He had a mint and a gallows in the town, of which he was chief magistrate, with a jurisdiction over the entire liberty (i.e., six hundreds and a half in this shire), the royalties of which together with 53 knights‗ fees, and other possessions, made a revenue equivalent to £50,000 in the present day” (Sharp’s British Gazetteer). Of this luxurious house, which our early sovereigns frequently visited, all that now remains are part of a tower, a beautiful Norman gate, 80 feet high, the abbey church, and gate.
Bury stands on the slope of a gentle and well cultivated sand-hill, the best prospect of it being from the Vinefield. St. Mary’s old parish church contains the effigies of Henry VIII.’s sister, Mary, who married Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and of Reeve, the last Abbot of Bury. At one time it possessed 40 churches and religious foundations. The Shire Hall occupies the place of St. Margaret’s church. The Guildhall has an ancient porch. There is a large County Prison, and a Bridewell in the Norman style; a handsome County Hospital. The Grammar School has produced many eminent men, such as Archbishop Sancroft, Dr. Blomfield (late Bishop of London), a native, Lord Keeper North, Sir Samuel Romilly, Cumberland, the dramatist, &c. Bloomfield the poet was born at Honington. The famous Bishop Gardiner of Mary’s time, was also a native.
Some ancient houses, as well as many remnants of antiquity will be noticed. The Cock Inn was a chapel, and the old workhouse part of a college. There still remains a gate of St. Saviour’s Hospital, founded as far back as 1184, by Abbot Sampson. Here good Duke Humphrey was captured by Henry VI., and (it is stated) smothered in 1446, between the bolsters of his bed; and Dudley unsuccessfully tried to get up a rising on behalf of Lady Jane Grey.
Several fine seats are in the neighbourhood, built on the property which once belonged to the abbey, and was granted away at the dissolution. Rougham Hall, P. Bennet, Esq. Rushbrooke Hall, Colonel Rushbrooke; a moated Elizabethan seat. Barton Hall, Sir H. Bunbury, Bart. Livermore Hall, General Peel, M.P. Culford Hall, R. Benyon, Esq. Euston Park, Duke of Grafton.
THURSTON .—In the vicinity are the Paken ham’s old seat; Ixworth, R. Cartwright, Esq., with remains of a priory.
ELMSWELL station.
HAUGHLEY .—See page 37 .
POPULATION , 971.
Distance from station, ¾ mile.
Telegraph station at Cambridge, 4¾ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Cambridge, 4¾miles.
In the vicinity are Impington, (birth place of Pepys, secretary to the navy in Charles II.’s time, and author of Pepys‗ Diary, to which family the late lord Chancellor Cottenham belonged). Impington House seat of Mrs. Knight; near this spot, “a woman was in 1799 buried under the snow for eight days and dug out again.”
OAKINGTON . In the vicinity is Cottenham, birth place of Archbishop Tennyson, and the spot on which the Abbots of Crowland elected lecturers prior to the founding of the University of Cambridge.
LONG STANTON station.
SWAVESEY .—The Church founded by the Zouche family is worth a visit.
POPULATION , 3,321.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Golden Lion, Unicorn.
MARKET DAY .—Monday.
FAIRS .—Whit Monday and October 10th.
BANKERS .—E. and C., F. and G. E. Forster; Rust and Veaseys; Branch of London and County Bank.
Here is a Gothic bridge, which crosses the Ouse, and supports an old Chapel, a Spire, Church, and Priory, called Stépé founded in 1017. In the vicinity is Hemingford Abbots, the birth place of the “Three Graces,” the Miss Gunnings, who married respectively the Duke of Argyle, Earl of Coventry, and an Irish gentleman.
A continuation of this line extends to the Great Northern Railway, connecting itself with it at the town of Huntingdon.
POPULATION , 1,621.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
Telegraph station at St. Ives, 6 miles.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
FAIRS .—June 22nd, and Friday before Nov. 12th.
The church is a spacious and noble edifice, containing several ancient brasses and monuments. The chancel is supposed to be of the time of Henry III.
POPULATION , 4,731.
Telegraph station at March, 8 miles.
HOTEL .—George.
On the site of Chatteris House (T. Fryer, Esq.), stood a nunnery, founded in the time of King Edgar.—The living is worth £1,370.—Vermuyden, the Dutch engineer, cut Forty Foot Drains in 1670.
WIMBLINGTON station.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
POPULATION , 3,600.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Griffin.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—Whit Monday and Monday before it, and October 27th.
BANKERS .—Gurneys and Co.; Sub Branch National Provincial Bank of England; Harvey and Hudsons.
This is a village in the parish of Doddington, having a spacious and elegant church. Numerous Roman coins and other antiquities have been discovered in this neighbourhood.
PEAR TREE HILL station.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Rose and Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—Saturday and Monday before Palm Sunday, Monday before Whit Sunday, July 25th, Aug. 1st and 2nd.
BANKERS .—Gurneys and Co.; National Provincial Bank of England.
WISBEACH is half a port, with a population of 9,276, though some distance inland up the Ouse, and possesses an old church, half Norman, as well as the Rose Inn, which under the sign of the Horn, existed in 1475. Archbishop Herring, and Clarkson, the coadjutor of Wilberforce, against the slave trade, were educated at the Grammar School. The benefice is worth nearly £1,800. Godwin, the author of “Political Justice,” was a native.
After passing in succession the stations of EMNETH , SMEETH ROAD , MIDDLE DROVE , MAGDALEN GATE , and WATLINGTON , we arrive at
Lynn, see page 28 .
Pursuing our onward course we pass WATERBEACH . and arrive at
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Lamb, Bell.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday.
FAIRS .—Ascension Day, and October 29th.
BANKERS .—John Mortlock and Sons; E. and C., F. and G. E. Forster; Harvey and Hudsons.
A city and Bishop’s see, in the county of Cambridge. It is built on the banks of the Ouse, in the Isle of Ely, with a population of 7,428, and consists of one principal street, and several others which diverge from it. But the principal object of interest is its venerable Cathedral, founded in 1070. It is 510 feet long, and the Norman Nave 270 feet high. Bishop Alcock’s perpendicular Chapel, Nortwold’s tomb, Scot’s screen, the Lady Chapel, and the Lantern Tower, should be noticed. In the vicinity is Cromwell’s residence at Stuutney, and a Norman church. “Ribbons” were formerly blessed here at St. Audry’s shrine, hence the word “tawdry.”
After our departure from Ely, and passing in succession the stations of CHITTISHAM and BLACK BANK , we arrive at
MANEA .—At this place Roman medals, &c., have been found, and things have been discovered which lead to the supposition that some sudden irruption of the sea has formerly happened here.
STONEA , MARCH , and EASTREA stations.
POPULATION , 4,496.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
Telegraph station at Peterbro, 5¼ miles.
HOTEL .—Falcon.
BANKERS .—Gurney and Co.
General Sir Harry Smith, the hero of Aliwal, was a native. In the vicinity are Thorn Island, and the ruins of a Saxon Abbey, founded in 602, and Thorney Abbey, seat of T. Wing, Esq.
Peterborough.— See page 44 .
The line between Ely and Lynn is the most important section of the East Anglian line, as it brings a very valuable district of the eastern part of the country into railway communication, not only with the metropolis, but with the northern and western parts of the kingdom, while it adds materially to that of the low land traversed by the various companies.
Although this line runs through a perfectly level country, it possesses a peculiar interest from its passing through a vast and fertile district, less than a century ago covered with water—many vain, because unscientific, attempts having been made, dating even from the Roman occupation of this Island, to reclaim and adapt the land to cultivation. The productive and remunerative farming of the Fens of Norfolk, is one of the greatest triumphs of steam, for that was the effective agent employed to give value to, or rather to create, this extensive territory. Even within a recent period, lands estimated at £3 or £4 an acre, have been enhanced in value, not only one hundred per cent., but even one hundred fold.
With the exception of a few viaducts, from the line passing through a level, easy, as well as fertile country, it exhibits few specimens of ambitious or costly engineering; all is simple, strong, substantial, as well as economical.
On the first section from Lynn to Downham there is a rather expensive iron bridge raised over the turnpike road, not far from the town; beyond this, for ten or eleven miles continuously, there is neither embankment nor excavation. There are three viaducts over the Ouse. In the mode of crossing the bog leading to the main viaduct, and in forming a foundation upon beds of quicksand for the piers of an iron girder bridge, crossing the canal at Wisbeach, great skill is exhibited. In the former case, foundation after foundation was swallowed up in the swamps, piles sunk, trenches dug, thorns, brushwood, and timber spread over the surface; and the difficulty was only surmounted by topping a dry sandy soil till it settled firmly in the bed as the moisture was pressed out from beneath. A different contrivance was resorted to in the case of the Wisbeach quicksands. A platform of timber was actually laid under the bed of the canal, extending all along the adjacent ground; and upon this were firmly sunk the piers for an iron bridge of 35 feet span, consisting of six girders of four tons each.
LITTLEPORT station.
THIS county, from its numerous objects of antiquity, geographical situation on the German Ocean, as well as its seaport towns, seats, agricultural and manufacturing products, is particularly deserving of notice. In the fenny part of the country the air is not only cold, but exceedingly damp; but the county to the north and north-west of Thetford, forming the greater part of Norfolk, consisting of a sandy or gravelly soil, is peculiarly salubrious and pleasant. The manufactures of Norfolk, which consist almost exclusively of woollen goods, are nearly all centred in the city of Norwich and its vicinity. Yarmouth and Lynn are the two principal ports, from which nearly all the manufactured goods are exported.
HILGAY FEN .—Hilgay Church was the rectory of Phineas Fletcher, the poet.
Then passing on to OUSE BRIDGE station, we arrive at
DENVER .—The Church here has a thatched roof. In the vicinity is Ryston Hall, seat of E. Pratt, Esq., and West Dereham, with its abbey gate and ruined towers, founded by Archbishop Hubert in 1188.
POPULATION , 2,458.
Telegraph station at Lynn, 11 miles.
HOTEL .—Castle.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—February 3rd, May 8th, and November 13th.
BANKERS .—Gurneys and Co.
This place is famous for its butter and wild fowl, and has an ancient church and bridge.
Then passing in succession the stations of STOW , (near which are Stow Hall, Sir T. Hare, Bart.; Stradsett ; and Watlington, General Peel, M.P.); and Holme, within sight of which is the very ancient Church of Runckton, we arrive at
POPULATION , 588.
Telegraph station at Lynn, 6 miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Downham, 5½ miles.
This station forms a junction of the railway to Wisbeach and Peterborough; but our present course lies northward, to Lynn, at which place we arrive about fifteen minutes after leaving the junction.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Globe, Crown.
OMNIBUSES to Castle Rising, Ingoldsthorpe, Clench Warton, and Tarrington St. Clements.
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesdays and Saturdays.
FAIRS .—February 13th, and October 6th.
BANKERS .—East of England Bank; Everards and Co.; Lynn and Norfolk Bank; Gurneys and Co.
A borough town, in the county of Norfolk, which stands on the banks of the Ouse. It was formerly called Lynn Episcopi, having been granted at the Conquest to the bishops of Norwich, who had a palace at Gaywood. It consists of two principal streets, with a number of smaller ones branching from them.
Four rivulets run through the town and divide it into separate parts, over which are thrown several bridges. The streets are on the whole well paved, and the modern houses handsome, but still a number of old irregular buildings remain. The Exchange or Custom House is a fine stone building. The Market Cross was built in 1710, and is ornamented with Ionic columns Population—16,170, who return one member. The port is formed by the mouth of the Ouse, but it is choked with shifting sands, and the harbour reached only by an intricate channel between them, 15 miles long. A new channel has been made for the river, called the Gan Brink Cut. When the siege of Calais was undertaken by Edward III., Lynn supplied 19 ships—a proof of the activity of its trade. St. Margaret’s Church, near the Saturday market and St. James’ Street, is as old as the 12th century, being a cross, with two odd west pinnacled towers, and a large window between. Within are two Flemish brasses deserving notice. That of St. Nicholas, was built in Edward III.’s reign, and is 200 feet long, with a steeple of 170 feet; the porch is elegant. All Saints’ , in South Lynn, is also an old building, having one of Snetzler’s organs, with 30 stops. This parish forms a narrow strip of 4¼ miles along the Ouse. The town is clean and well built, and intersected by the river Narr and several little streams or “fleets,” one of which, the Purfleet fleet, divides it into two equal parts, north and south, and has long been a recognised boundary. There are pretty public walks on the east side, of some extent. Three or four roads unite at the Long Bridge or Old South Gate, over the Narr, near the gas works, in South Lynn. North Lynn and West Lynn are on the opposite side of the Ouse.
At the old Guildhall, are portraits of the late Lord George Bentinck and Sir R. Walpole, both representatives of the borough; also King John’s silver cup, given to the “mayor and good men of Lenn;” and a sword ascribed to him, but actually the gift of Henry VIII. The principal, or Tuesday market, is a space of three acres, with a stone cross in one corner, 70 feet high, but not older than 1710. A statue of Charles II. in the Exchange, built in 1683. In College Lane is the Grammar School, of which Bulwer’s sentimental hero, Eugene Aram, was usher, when apprehended for the murder of Clarke, in 1759. This is an old foundation, as are various almshouses, which exist under modern names.
Among the remains of antiquity are the Lady’s Mount, east of the town, so called from the small Lady Chapel there; it is a cross only 17 feet long, with a beautiful fan-tracery roof, but enclosed by an octangular brick wall. The beautiful Grey Friar’s Lantern is a tower of six sides, supported by buttresses, pierced by elegantly shaped windows, and resting on open groined arches, making the total height 90 feet. It was erected about 1260. There are also remains of the Austin Friar’s Gate, and of the old town wall, which had a ditch outside.
About 18,000 tons of shipping belong to the port amount of custom dues, £50,000. Oil-cake, timber, and other Baltic produce, are among the chief imports; the silt brought down the river is used by the glass-makers. Since 1850, works on a large scale have been carried out for reclaiming part of the Wash, but its practicability is doubtful. Here, as in the Trent, the Solway, &c., the tide comes in sometimes with a sudden rush, carrying everything before it. It was while crossing it under such circumstances that King John was nearly drowned a little before his death at Newark. Dr. Burney was organist here for nine years, and at that period wrote his great work the “History of Music,” and married his second wife. Two of his children, Madame D’Arblay, authoress of Cecilia, and Charles Burney, the scholar, were natives, as also were Bishop Keene and “Miss Breeze, who kept a pack of hounds, and was a dead shot.”
At Castle Rising, which, according to a local saying “was a sea-port when Lynn was a marsh, now Lynn is a sea-port town, and Rising fares the worst,” are the keep and other remains of a Norman fortress, built by the ancestors of the Howard family, on the site of the one in which Edward III. confined his mother; also an old Norman church. This place was one of the rotten boroughs extinguished by the Reform Bill, at the date of which it had exactly two voters, namely, the rector and an alderman of the corporation, while the surviving alderman acted as mayor and returning officer.,
On passing WOOTTON and WOLVERTON Stations we leave Sandringham Castle, the shooting retreat of the Prince of Wales, a little to the right. DERSINGHAM , with its park, SNETTISHAM and HEACHAM , are next passed, and the train is brought to a stand at
Here Sir Roger Lestrange, who edited the first “London Gazette,” was born; there are remains of the old seat, and a lighthouse on the low cliffs which border this side of the Wash. In the vicinity is Burnham Thorpe, one of several Burnhams, near the north coast of Norfolk, which was the birthplace of Horatio Nelson, who was born at the parsonage (his father being rector), in 1758. When sent to sea he was so delicate looking that his uncle, Capt. Suckling, predicted he would be carried off by the first puff of wind; and he retained a thin battered appearance to the last. His name, for which the world was not too wide, is an anagram on one of his great battles,—Honor a te Nilos, literally “Honour to thee by the Nile.” Norfolk has produced several great seamen; at Cockthorpe, in particular, were born, — Sir Christopher Mengs, of Charles II.’s time, a rough but hearty seaman, killed in battle with the Dutch, to the bitter grief of his sailors, who, as Pepys tells, “came him and Sir W. Coventry, after the funeral, begging a fire-ship that they might show their regard for their dead Commander, and their revenge, by the sacrifice of their own lives.” He calls it one of the “most romantique cases that ever I heard in my life.” Sir Jno. Narborough, another Admiral, was at first cabin boy to Mengs, and Sir Cloudesley Shovell was Narborough’s—all three were natives of Cockthorpe. Lord Hawke was born at Docking. Holkham, the Earl of Leicester’s seat, was built by the famous “Coke of Holkham,” a descendant of the lawyer, and a distinguished agriculturist. Lord Burlington, who designed Burlington House, in Piccadilly, was the architect of this beautiful structure, which contains a rich collection of pictures (especially Claudes), marbles, books, busts, &c. Before Mr. Coke’s time (1770), not a grain of wheat was sown all the way to Lynn.
After passing, in succession, MIDDLETON , EAST WINCH , BILNEY , and NARBOROUGH stations, we arrive at
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
Telegraph station at Dereham, 12¼ miles
HOTEL .—Crown.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—May 12th, July 21st, and November 3rd.
This town, noted for its butter market, has a population of 2,974, is situated on an eminence, and consists of four principal streets. The parish church, which is the finest in the neighbourhood, is a large edifice in the form of a cross, and consists of a nave with two aisles, a chancel, and two transept chapels. It contains several monuments, a roof of finely carved oak, and a library. Here are also several meeting houses, an assembly room, theatre, house of correction, &c. Races are held annually on an extensive heath, to the south of the town; and coursing matches are not unfrequent on the same ground.
In the vicinity are the following seats, Pickenham Hall, Wm. Chute, Esq.; and Necton, Col. Mason.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
Telegraph station at Dereham, 8¼ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Swaffham, 4 miles.
In the vicinity are Dunham Lodge, seat of Sir — Clarke; Castle Acre, remains of a Priory; Kempson, Gen. Fitzroy; Lexham Hall, E. Keppel, Esq.; and Litcham, with its ancient church.
Then passing the FRANSHAM and WENDLING stations we arrive at
Dereham. —See page 31 .
POPULATION , 4,046.
Distance from station, 8½ miles.
Telegraph station at Ely, 7 miles.
HOTELS .—Bell; White Hart.
MARKET DAY .—Friday. FAIR .—October 10th.
In the vicinity is Mildenhall House, sea of Sir H. Bunbury, Bart., and which belonged to Speaker Hammer. The Church is timber-roofed, with tombs of the Norths, whose old seat is here.
POPULATION , 1,797.
Distance from station, 2 miles.
Telegraph station at Brandon, 3¾ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Brandon, 3¾ miles.
Here we leave the fen country and enter upon a wooded and picturesque district. Lakenheath Hall, the seat of R. Eagle, Esq.
POPULATION , 2,203.
Distance from station, ¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Chequers.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
FAIRS .—February 11th, Monday before Easter, July 5th, and November 16th.
This place formerly supplied Government with gun flints. Lord Mayor Eyre, who built Leadenhall Market, was a native.
In the vicinity are Brandon Park, seat of E. Bliss
Esq.; Backenham House, Lord Petre’s; Merton, Lord Walsingham’s, in the Elizabethan style, &c.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Bell.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—May 14th, August 2nd, December 9th and 25th, and Holy Thursday.
A market town, the ancient capital of East Anglia, with a population of 4,208, who return two members, situated at the junction of the Ouse and the Thet. The principal part of Thetford is in Norfolk, but a small part is in Suffolk. The part which is situated in the latter county is now very small; but on the Norfolk side there are several good streets, and of late years the town has much improved in its general appearance. Remains of its former splendour are noticeable. King’s or John of Gaunt’s Palace, remains of Bigod’s Priory, where several noble families were interred, St. Sepulchre’s Gate, Chapel of Canute’s Nunnery, St. Peter’s dark flint Church, the Guildhall, and Castle Hall, 100 feet high, should be visited. In the vicinity is Euston Park, the seat of the Duke of Grafton. The celebrated Tom Paine was a native.
After passing the HARLING ROAD and ECCLES ROAD stations we arrive at
POPULATION , 2,221.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—New.
The Church is a half Norman Cross. This was the seat of the Anglian Monarchs. In the vicinity are the seat of Sir W. B. Smyth, Bart., St. Andrew’s Hall; Sir F. Baring, Bart. Derpham, at which was a lime 90 feet high and 48 in girth, &c.
POPULATION , 2,152.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—King’s Head.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
FAIRS .—February 13th, May 17th, and September 7th.
WYMONDHAM is a town of crape weavers, with an old Abbey Church (in which are the D’Albine monuments, the founders of it), and the Norman front of the abbey itself, belonging to the Ladies Alfred Paget and Macdonald, the co-heiresses of the late George Wyndham, Esq., of Cromer Hall, descendant of the celebrated Secretary of State Wyndham. Kett, the tanner, a native, was hanged from the steeple here in 1549, for heading the Norwich insurrection, Bentham was vicar, and Peacham master of the school. It gives name to the Wyndhams late of Felbrigg Hall. In the vicinity is Stanfield Hall, the seat of the Prestons, where Jeremy Preston, Esq., was murdered by Rush in 1849. Potash Farm, where the assassin lived, has been pulled down.
KIMBERLEY station.
POPULATION , 527.
Telegraph station at Wymondham. 5½ miles.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Wymondham, 5½ miles
This is the birthplace of Sir Thomas Gresham, the celebrated London Merchant: he founded a Grammar School at Holt, and the townsmen of that place claim him also as a native. In the vicinity is Hardingham Hall, seat of Mrs. Edwards.
Passing on we reach the THUXTON and YAXHAM stations, and then arrive at
POPULATION , 3,070.
Distance from station, 1 mile.
A telegraph station
HOTEL .—King’s Arms.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
FAIRS .—Thursday and Friday before Old Midsummer, Thursday and Friday before New Michaelmas.
The Church of St. Nicholas, which was founded by Withburga, the daughter of an Anglian monarch, should be visited; its font, with carved figures, and chest in Edward’s Chapel will be appreciated. Here lie buried the poet Cowper, who died at his cousin’s in 1800, and Mrs. Unwin; there is an epitaph on his tomb by Hayley. In the vicinity is Quebec Castle, seat of W. Warner, Esq.
ELMHAM .—Here are traces of a castle, erected by the fighting Bishop Spencer. In the vicinity are Elmham Hall, the seat of Lord Sondes; and Broom Close, where Roman antiquites have been found; Bilney Hall, J. Culison, Esq.; East Bilney, where the Martyr Bilney was born; Mileham, of which Coke the lawyer was a native.
RYBURGH station.
POPULATION , 2,182.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Red Lion and Crown.
FAIRS .—Whit Tuesday, November 22nd for cattle.
MARKET DAY . Thursday.
BANKERS .—Gurneys and Co.; Branch of East of England Bank.
In the Church, which is later English, there is a fine doorway, brass, and font. In the neighbourhood are Rainham, Lord Townshend’s seat, at which may be seen Salvator Rosa’s “Belisarius begging;” Houghton, the Marquis of Cholmondeley; Holkham, Lord Leicester’s, the finest seat in the county; Melton Castle, Lord Hastings’; and Burnham Thorpe, the birthplace of the gallant Nelson.
At Walsingham Abbey, seat of H. L. Warren, Esq., are remains of an abbey of the 11th century, where used to be shown a model of the Holy Sepulchre. The beautiful east window of the chancel is 60 feet high. In the Parish Church, the father of Sir Philip Sidney is buried. Walsingham was a great place for pilgrimages to the Virgin, whose image was burnt at Chelsea, by order of Henry VIII., though he had walked bare-footed in his youth from Basham, to give her a handsome necklace. At Binham and Houghton-le-Dale are some old ecclesiastical ruins.
A small seaport town, having a spacious harbour, but not easy of access. Population, 3.098. Here is an oyster fishery. Corn and malt are shipped. Coals, timber; deals, bark, &c., &c., imported.
We again proceed on our journey, calling at HETHERSETT and TROWSE , and very quickly reach
Norwich, for particulars of which see page 38 .
BRUNDALL .—Near to this station is Brundall House, seat of the Rev. L. B. Foster, and several ruined churches.
BUCKENHAM .—From Strumpshaw Hill, in the vicinity, is an extensive view of the flattish country between Norwich and the sea.
CANTLEY station.
POPULATION , 836.
A telegraph station, and junction of the branch line to Lowestoft.
At this place, “Lothbrock the Dane was murdered.”
Distance from station, 1¼ mile.
A telegraph station.
The Church has a fine Norman door and round tower.
POPULATION , 621.
A telegraph station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Lowestoft, 4½ miles.
In the vicinity is Somerleyton Hall, the old Elizabethan seat of the Jerninghams, but now the residence of Sir S. M. Peto, Bart., who has greatly enlarged the building.
MUTFORD station.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Queen’s Head.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—May 12th, and October 10th.
A market and seaport town (the most eastern point in the kingdom), with a population of 10,663 It stands on a considerable eminence, commanding extensive views of the German Ocean and surrounding country. Its appearance from the sea is extremely picturesque. The town is neat, clean, and well lighted; contains Theatre, Assembly Rooms, Baths, and a fine church, dedicated to St. Margaret, which should be visited, and its Porch, “Maid’s Chamber” over it, brasses, steeple 120 feet high, and font should be noticed. In it are monuments to Bishop Scroope (brother to Bishop Tanner), Whiston, Potter, and Hudson, with the quaint epitaph “Here lie your painful ministers, &c.,” all of whom held that living. A chapel of ease, dedicated to St. Peter was erected a few years since by subscription. Admirals Usher, Ashby, Mighell, (all natives), and Chief Justice Holt. Here, in 1665, the Duke of York defeated the Dutch Admiral Offdam. George II. landed at this place in 1737, and Adams, the first American Ambassador in 1784. Admirals, Sir T. Allen and Sir Thomas Leake, Nash, the author, and Gillingwater, the historian, were natives. Harbour of Refuge, Tram Way, Promenade, Pier, Light Houses, Warehouses, and Sea Wall were erected in 1848, by Sir S. M. Peto, Bart.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Angel.
STEAM VESSELS to Hull every Tuesday. Fares, 9s. and 5s.; to London, twice weekly. Fares, 8s. and 5s.; to Newcastle every Wednesday. Fares, 11s. and 6s.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—Easter Friday and Saturday.
RACES in August. Marine Regatta in July or August.
BANKERS .—Gurneys and Co.; Lacon and Co. Branch of East of England Banking Co.; National Provincial Bank of England.
GREAT YARMOUTH is a seaport at the eastern extremity of the county of Norfolk, situate on the east bank of the Yare; the parliamentary borough extending on the west side with the county of Suffolk, comprising the hamlet of South Town and parish of Gorleston. Population, 34,810. It returns two members. The town stands on a tongue of land, having the sea on the east, and the river on the south and west, and joined to the mainland at Caister on the north. It is connected with South Town, by a very handsome lifting bridge (finished in 1854), constructed by Grissel and Co. The borough was incorporated by King John. In 1260 the town was surrounded (except on the river side) by a wall, having ten gates and sixteen towers, the remains of which are still to be seen. The town has, however, greatly extended itself beyond the walls. The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is one of the largest parish churches in the kingdom. It was founded in 1123, and has lately been restored. It contains a celebrated organ. Near it is the hall of the Benedictine Priory, restored and used as a schoolroom. The chief attraction of Yarmouth has always been its noble quay, extending upwards of a mile in length, and having for the most part admirable rows of trees, forming an agreeable promenade; adjoining to which are several Elizabethan houses, exhibiting rare specimens of carved work. The Town Hall and the Police Court are on the Quay. The Market Place is very spacious. There is a Theatre and a Public Library. On the beach a newly-erected Marine Drive extends (with the Victoria Terrace and Esplanade) for nearly a mile. At the south end, the Wellington (promenade landing) Pier, extends 700 feet from the terrace into the sea. At the northern extremity another pier is contemplated, and between them there is a free jetty, near to which are the Bath Rooms Bathing machines are placed both on the north and south beach.
The old town contains about 150 narrow streets or passages, locally called “Rows,” extending from east to west, in which many remains of antiquity may still be traced. On the south Denes there is a column, 140 feet high, to the memory of Nelson. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the mackerel, herring, and deep-sea fisheries, which are here prosecuted to a very great extent with much success.
The Health of Towns Act has been introduced, and the town is well drained, and supplied with an abundance of pure water from Ormesby Broad.
In the immediate neighbourhood may be seen Burgh Castle, one of the most perfect Roman Camps in the kingdom; and the remains of Caister Castle, which was erected by Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., temp. Henry VII.
The town is defended seaward by three Batteries; and it contains a Naval Hospital, and Barracks for the East Norfolk regiment of Militia, and the Norfolk Artillery Militia.
STRATFORD .—See page 20 .
Telegraph station at Stratford, 1¼ mile.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Stratford, 1¼ mile.
In the vicinity are Epping Forest, Wanstead Park (the deserted seat of the Tylney Poles), the Infant Orphan Asylum, Lake House (where Hood wrote his “Tylney Hall,” in 1834), and the Whitechapel School of Industry.
POPULATION , 4,523; of Barking, 5,076.
Telegraph station at Stratford, 3½ miles.
HOTEL .—Angel.
MARKET DAY .—(At Barking) Saturday, for North country cattle.
FAIR .—October 22nd.
The Town Hall is an old-fashioned timber-roofed building, St. Margaret’s Church contains brasses and effigies of Sir C. Montague, and monument of Day, who founded Fairlop fair; near it are the remains of the Abbey gate, and Holyrood chapel over it. In the vicinity are Byfrons, the seat of the Sterry family; and Albury Hatch, in Hainault Forest, in which stood the famous Fairlop Oak, 36 feet in girth. It is stated that Hainault may be spelt 2,304 different ways by as many different Frenchmen.—Sharp’s British Gazetteer. The Grampus, of 54 guns, was wrecked on Barking Shelf in 1799; the shoal is ⅝ mile long.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—White Hart; Dolphin.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday (corn).
FAIRS .—Midsummer Day, June 24th.
The town, which was the Roman Durolitum, contains a population of 4,361; the church, built in 1407, contained a stained figure of the Confessor, with effigies of Hervey and Sir Anthony Cooke (who entertained Queen Elizabeth at his seat, Gidea Hall, now occupied by Mrs. Blake), which was pulled down and anew one erected on its site in 1850, with a spire 150 feet high; Quarles, the poet, and his son, the royalist, were natives. In the vicinity are Little Warley, the East India Company’s Cavalry Barracks, Dognam Park, and Weald Hall, C. Tower, Esq.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—White Hart.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—July 18th, and October 15th.
This town, which contains the Shoreditch Industrial School, County Asylum, Rich Grammar School, and a population of 2,811, was formerly a large market and assize town, and is 281 feet above the level of the sea. The Old Town Hall is now occupied by a coachmaker. The New Church, built in 1835, has a handsome square tower, the old one erected in 1221 being converted into a National School. The Crown is a very ancient inn. In the vicinity are Thorndon Hall (built by Payne) the seat of Lord Petre, having a noble front 300 feet long, with a splendid collection of portraits, &c. East Thorndon, at which place is the gate of the Tyrell’s old seat, and Weald Hall, C. T. Tower, Esq.
Telegraph station at Brentwood, 5½ miles.
HOTEL .—Peter’s Arms.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday. FAIRS .—1st & 2nd Dec.
This town, which contains a population of 882, derives its name from Ing (a meadow) and alte (the Roman mill-stone). The church contains monuments and effigies of the Petre family, who formerly lived at their old seat, Ingatestone Hall. In the vicinity is The Hyde, seat of the Disneys, one of whom discovered at Blunt’s Walls, near Billericay, the Disney Antiquities, placed in the Fitzwilliam Museum.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Bell, Greyhound, White Hart, Saracen’s Head.
MARKET DAY .—Friday.
RACES .—In August.
FAIRS .—May 12th and November 12th.
BANKERS .—Sparrow and Co.; Branch of the London and County Bank.
CHELMSFORD .—A market, assize, and sessions town in Essex, of which it is the capital, with a population of 5,513. It is built in a beautiful valley between the rivers Chelmer and Can. The town contains shire hall, county room, with basement for corn exchange (in which it carries on a large trade), county gaol, house of correction, theatre, and Edward VI.’s Grammar School (at which Holland, a native, who translated Camden with one pen, Dr. Dee the astrologer, Sir W. Mildmay, and Plume were scholars), several handsome buildings, and has been greatly improved of late years. In St. Mary’s are monuments of the Mildmays, who possess the manor from Queen Elizabeth.
In an open space adjoining the Town Hall stands an ancient conduit, of a quadrangular form, and about fifteen feet high, which is built of stone and brick, with a pipe from each of the four bridges, opposite to which is Lord Chief Justice Tindal’s (a native) monument. There is a considerable thorough fare through this town, as the great east London road passes through it.
In the vicinity are Writtle, seat of the Conyers Pleshy Castle, that of the ancient High Constables of England; Danbury Church, near a camp; the new palace of the Bishop of Rochester; Boreham House ; New Hall Nunnery, with its Gothic chapel; Hatfield Priory, seat of P. Wright, Esq., &c.
POPULATION , 3,455.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—White Hart.
MARKET DAY .—Tuesday.
FAIRS .—Friday and Saturday in Whit-Week.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—King’s Head.
MARKET DAY —Thursday.
FAIRS .—First Thursday in May, Whit-Tuesday, and September 13th.
MALDON , or Malden Water, an ancient borough and market town in the county of Essex, population 6,261, situated on the estuary of the Blackwater. It consists of one principal street, extending nearly a mile from east to west, along Cross Street, and several back streets and lanes. The whole town has been much improved of late years. It contains an old Town Hall, built by Henry VI., Custom House, Barracks, Library (founded by Plume, a native, in 1680), Grammar School; and handsome baths have been erected, which attract numerous visitors during the bathing season. The principal church of All Saints is a large and ancient building, with an equilateral triangle tower. Maldon carries on a great coasting, and considerable foreign trade. The channel of Blackwater river forms a convenient haven for vessels of a moderate burden. Here Bright, the fat man of Maldon, lived and died, aged only 28 years, but weighing 44 stone, and it is stated that seven men could be buttoned into his waistcoat.
POPULATION , 4,305.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—White Hart.
COACHES to Halstead and Gosfield, twice daily.
MARKET DAY .—Wednesday.
FAIRS .—May 8th, and October 2nd.
Here is Coker’s Free Grammar School, in which Kay, the naturalist, (son of a blacksmith at Black-Notley) was a scholar. St. Michael’s Church was enlarged previous to the Reformation “with the proceeds of three plays acted in it;” it has a fine tall spire, and contains the tomb of Dr. Collins, physician to Peter the Great. Tusser, the clever agricultural poet, was born at Rivenhall in 1515.
POPULATION , 1,741.
Distance from station, 2 miles.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Star and Fleece.
FAIR .—Easter Monday.
In the vicinity are Kelvedon Hall, seat of W. Wright, Esq., with a magnificent prospect: Felix Hall, T. B. Western, Esq.; Coggeshall, with its ruins of a priory; Layer Marney (with the old brick gate,) Q. Dick, Esq.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
A telegraph station.
In the vicinity is Copford Church, with a Norman circular apse.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
Telegraph station at Marks Tey, 3½ miles.
This short line of 6¼ miles, runs along the northern banks of the river Colne, passing through the little village of COLNE , once the property of the Wakes’ family, to
Telegraph station at Marks Tey, 9¾ miles.
MARKET DAY ,—Friday.
FAIRS .—May 6th, and October 29th.
It has a population of 5,707, employed mainly in the manufacture of silk velvet, and straw plait. It has several churches, and other places of worship; also, a market house, collegiate Institution, &c., &c.
POPULATION , 1,203.
Telegraph station at Marks Tey, 13 miles.
FAIRS .—May 14, July 25, Aug. 15, and Oct. 25.
A small town situated on the river Colne. The church was built in the reign of King John, and has in it effigies of the De Veres and Ashursts. The castle was built in 1719; the walls are of extraordinary thickness. Its site is very nearly that of its predecessor, built about 1150, in which the death of Queen Maud was said to have occurred. A distance of 2½ miles further brings us to
YELDHAM .—In a woody district. Close at hand is an oak tree nine yards in circumference.
HAVERHILL , the present terminus of the railway, the population of which are to some extent engaged in the manufacture of silk umbrella covers, &c.
BURES station.
POPULATION , 6,879.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Rose and Crown.
COACHES to and from Melford, daily.
MARKET DAY .—Saturday.
FAIRS .—March 12th, July 10th, and Dec. 12th earthenware.
SUDBURY is a market town and borough, in the county of Suffolk, situated on the north-eastern side of the river Stour, over which there is a bridge. Formerly it was a place of much greater importance than at present. It was one of the first places at which Edward III. settled the Flemings, whom he invited to England to instruct his subjects in the woollen manufacture. This business accordingly flourished here for some centuries, but the trade has long since declined. St. Gregory’s Church was built by Archbishop Simon de Sudbury (a native), who was murdered here by Wat Tyler’s mob, and buried near the college, the gate of which remains. Gainsborough, the painter, and Enfield, author of the “Speaker,” &c., were natives.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Three Cups; Red Lion; George.
OMNIBUSES to Clacton, Frating, Bentley, St. Osyth, Walton-on-the-Naze, Kirby, Thorpe, Weeley, Elmstead.
MARKET DAYS .—Wednesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—July 5th, Oct. 20th, 21st, 22nd, and 23rd, July 23rd.
COLCHESTER , formerly an important town (Colonia ) of the Romans, now a parliamentary borough, returning two members, in the north-east corner of Essex, on the river Colne, and the Great Eastern Railway, 51 miles from London. Population, 23,809. Here the famous British King, Cunobiline, (or Cymbeline), and his sons Guiderius and Arvisagus (or Caractacus) reigned, till dispossessed by Claudius Cæsar. A few years after it fell into the hands of Boadicea, but was retaken; and in the third century became the seat of Constantius Chlorus, whose wife Helena, daughter of King Coel (according to the monkish accounts), gave birth to Constantine the Great here. But the real birth-place of this emperor was Naissus, in European Turkey. His mother founded the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem; there was a church called after her in this town, where the Friends’ Meeting House now stands. Among the objects of notice are the gate of an Abbey, founded by William the Conqueror’s Steward (Endo Dapifer), who also built a Castle, of which the keep, gate, and other parts remain; and a Moot Hall, since rebuilt. There are fragments of the ancient town walls. Many of the houses are old; one dates from 1490; St. Botolph’s Norman church (part of the Abbey), was all battered down in the siege of 1648, except the west front. St. Martin’s was ruined from the same cause. All Saints, St. Leonard’s, and Trinity, are of the 14th century. At St. James’s there is a picture of the Adoration of the Shepherds, and many old tombs. Other buildings are the Theatre, a Custom House, County Hospital, and a Grammar School, of which Dr. Parr was master; also a spacious Public Hall, erected in 1851. Small vessels come up to the Hythe; oilcake, timber, corn, malt, &c., are traded in. Silk for umbrellas is made here; some of the most costly velvet is also manufactured here. Excellent oysters at Pyfleet. There is a commodious quay on the river, which has been rendered navigable for vessels of 150 tons burden. Colchester is an important military station, a camp for 5,000 men having been formed during the Russian war; Middlewich Farm was bought by the Government, in 1856, for a drilling and exercise ground. In 1857 Lord Panmure, then Secretary-at-War, presented to the town two Russian guns, iron 30-pounders, trophies of the Russian war.
The Wivenhoe Branch turns off here to the right, and runs a distance of four and a half miles through the village of HYTHE to the seaport town of WIVENHOE , at the mouth of the Colne. It has a trade in oysters. A few miles to the east lies
Or Walton-on-the-Naze, a rapidly-improving watering-place. Its peculiar appellation of “Soken” was derived from some exclusive privileges formerly granted to certain refugees from the Netherlands, who here established themselves, and introduced several manufactures, particularly that of cloth. Adjoining the old hall is a square tower, built by the Corporation of the Trinity House, as a mark to guide ships passing or entering the port of Harwich, and on other parts of the coast are two martello towers and a signal station. The church of All Saints was erected and consecrated by Bishop Porteus about forty years ago, the ancient structure having a few years before been entirely swept away by the tides, as well as the churchyard, and every house but one of the old village. In the olay base of the Walton cliffs fossils and elephant tusks, with ante-diluvian remains of gigantic animals long since extinct, are frequently found embedded. The beach presents a gradual declivity, affording excellent facilities for bathing, and as the ebb tide leaves a fine firm sand several miles in extent, it is also peculiarly available as a promenade.
We pass ARDLEIGH station, and then arrive at
POPULATION 881.
Distance from station, ½ mile.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—Packet.
MARKET DAY .—Thursday.
FAIRS .—Whit-Thursday.
This place is mentioned by the immortal bard, Shakspeare, in his play of Henry IV., 2nd part, act 2, scene 4th, “A roasted Manningtree ox with a pudding in his belly.” In the vicinity is Mistley Hall, E. Rigby, Esq.
The stations we pass are MISTLEY , BRADFIELD , WRABNESS , and DOVER COURT , arriving at
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—Three Cups; White Hart.
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesday and Friday.
FAIRS .—May 1st and October 18th.
A sea-port, packet station, and borough town in the county of Essex, with a population of 5,070, who return two members. It is built on a peninsular point of land, close to where the rivers Stour and Orwell join the German Ocean; and from the number of maritime advantages which Harwich possesses, it has become a place of fashionable resort, especially as the scenery in its neighbourhood has considerable beauty. The Stour and Orwell are both navigable for large vessels twelve miles above the town, the one to Ipswich, the other to Manningtree. In uniting at Harwich, these rivers form a large bay on the north and west of the town. Their joint waters then proceed southward, and fall into the sea about a mile below it, in a channel from two to three miles wide, according to the state of the tide, and in which the harbour is situated. The western bank of it is formed by the tongue of land which projects towards the north, and on which the town itself stands; the eastern bank is formed by a similar projection towards the south of the opposite coast of Suffolk, and between these two promontories the harbour is completely sheltered. It is of great extent, and forms, united to the bay, a roadstead for the largest ships. Harwich derives considerable profit from its shipping trade, fisheries, and annual visitors. It has hot, cold, and vapour baths, every accommodation for sea bathing, and a number of other sources of amusement. From this place Queen Isabella (1326), Edward III. (1338 and 1340), William III., George I. and II., sailed on their visits to France, Holland, and Hanover, Queen Charlotte and Louis XVIII. first landed here; and from hence was embarked, in 1821, the body of that much abused princess, Queen Caroline, consort of George IV. In the vicinity is Dover Court, in the church of which is a tomb to Secretary Clarke, killed in 1666 in action against De Ruyter. Here was a miraculous crucifix (at least so it was stated to be), for burning which three men were hung in 1532. Captain Hewitt sailed in H.M. surveying brig Fairy, from this port, and was lost, with his crew, on the 13th Nov. 1840, in a storm.
Immediately on leaving Manningtree we cross the river Stour, and enter the county of
THIS county is level, compared with many of the other English ones. The highest land is in the west, where the great chalk ridge of this part of the kingdom extends from Haverhill by Bury, to Thetford in Norfolk. The climate is considered the driest in the kingdom. Suffolk is one of the best cultivated districts in England; besides its arable lands, it contains heaths, which are employed as extensive sheepwalks. Indeed, it may be called almost exclusively a farming county, agriculture being conducted on the most improved principles.
Distance from station, ¾ mile.
A telegraph station.
MONEY ORDER OFFICE at Ipswich, 5¼ miles.
Passing CAPEL and RAYDON stations, we reach
POPULATION , 2,779.
A telegraph station.
HOTEL .—White Lion.
MARKET DAYS .—Monday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—Whit-Monday, and October 10.
A market town in the county of Suffolk, built on the banks of the river Breton. It was celebrated some years back for the manufacture of cloth, but the inhabitants are now principally employed in the spinning of yarn for the Norwich weavers. It is of great antiquity, and is believed to have been the burial place of the kings of East Anglia. On Aldham Common Rowland Taylor was burnt, in 1555.
A telegraph station.
HOTELS .—White Horse, Crown and Anchor.
MARKET DAYS .—Tuesday and Saturday.
FAIRS .—First Tuesday in May, July 25, August 22, and September 25. RACES in July.
BANKERS .—Bacon, Cobbold, and Co.; Alexander and Co.; National Provincial Bank of England.
IPSWICH , a port, borough town, and capital of the county of Suffolk, has a population of 37,950, who return two members. It is built on the northern bank of the river Orwell, and when viewed in ascending the river has somewhat the appearance of a crescent. The streets are rather narrow and irregular, like those of most ancient towns, but they are all well paved and lighted. The houses are many of them handsome modern buildings; and the rest, though old, are substantial, commodious, and many have gardens attached to them. At the corners of several streets are yet to be seen the remains of curious carved images, and several of the ancient houses are covered in profusion with this description of ornament.
It contains Town Hall, Corn Exchange, New Market, Custom House (with an old ducking-stool), Barracks, Baths, Theatre (here Garrick made his début, in 1741, as Aboan, in Oronooko), Lunatic Asylum, Hospital, Public Library, Assembly Rooms, Mechanics’ Institute, Race Stand, Old Malt Kiln (once Lord Curzon’s residence), Grammar School (of which Jeremy Collier was master), thirteen churches; Wolsey’s House, where he was born, in 1471, stands near St. Nicholas. Sparrow’s House, Christ’s Hospital, Ransome and Sim’s Machine and Agricultural Implement Works, which cover 14 acres; Public Park, Arboretum, the old churches of St. Lawrence, St. Margaret, &c. Wolsey, Butler (physician to James I.), Bishops Brownrigg and Laney, Dick, Mrs. Reeve were natives. In 1848 a two storied house was removed 70 feet without injury, and in 1850 a large apricot tree was carried a mile off—Sharp’s British Gazetteer. In the vicinity is the Chauntry, the seat of Sir Fitzroy Kelly, M.P.
Ipswich is favourably situated for commerce. Vessels of any burden can navigate the Orwell to the town itself, where a wet dock of considerable magnitude has been constructed. Vessels are constantly passing from Ipswich to Harwich. They are fitted up for the accommodation of passengers, like the Gravesend boats at London. This excursion forms one of the amusements of the place, for the beauty of the scenery along the banks of the river, bordered on either side, almost the whole way, with gently rising hills, villas, and woods, renders the sail delightful.
These railways, now open throughout, form much the nearest route between London and Yarmouth. From Ipswich we pass the stations of WESTERFIELD and BEALINGS , and shortly after stop at that of
POPULATION , 4,513.
A telegraph station.
This is a little town of some commercial importance, having a considerable coasting trade, besides exporting large quantities of grain. It lies on the banks of the river Deben, about 8 miles from the sea, but which is here navigable for vessels of about 120 tons. The church is a fine spacious building, and has several monuments.
MELTON and WICKHAM MARKET Junction.