BBQ SALMON WITH CHILE, TOMATOES, AND CUCUMBERS
SCALLOPS WITH HERB BUTTER TOMATILLO SALSA
BBQ SHRIMP WITH SPICY WATERMELON SAUCE
ROAST FISH WITH PINEAPPLE-COCONUT GLAZE
SHRIMP WITH CHILE-TANGERINE SAUCE
GRILLED SWORDFISH WITH WATERMELON RELISH
PANFRIED FLOUNDER WITH PANKO AND POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
SERVES 4
In this dish, the salmon is skinned, marinated on both sides, and then cooked on a bed of sliced oranges. The oranges will not burn away during cooking and will infuse the underside of the salmon with additional flavor. In fact, the charred orange slices are delicious. We serve the salmon on the charred orange slices and encourage our friends to taste the charred orange—it tastes great! As an excellent variation, stir a diced ripe avocado into the Spicy Tomato–Cucumber Salsa. In terms of the type of cucumber, use something with minimal seeds, like hothouse cucumbers, Middle Eastern cucumbers, or Japanese cucumbers.
SPICY TOMATO - CUCUMBER SALSA
1 cup finely chopped vine-ripened tomatoes
1 cup chopped seeded cucumber, not peeled
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
¼ cup chopped green onion, green and white parts
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
½ teaspoon salt
4 (6-ounce) fresh salmon fillets, skin and pinbones removed
¼ cup thin soy sauce
¼ cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or cumin
2 oranges
To make the salsa, remove the tomato stems, but do not seed or peel the tomatoes. Finely chop the tomatoes. Combine the tomatoes, cucumber, lime juice, brown sugar, cilantro, green onion, Worcestershire, garlic, serrano chile, and salt in a medium bowl. The salsa can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
To prepare the fish, 2 hours prior to cooking, rub the salmon on both sides with the soy sauce, olive oil, garlic, and cinnamon. Remove the salsa from the fridge, if necessary, so it will come to room temperature. Cut the oranges into 8 round slices, each ¼ inch thick.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal or gas grill. Place the orange slices in pairs, edge to edge over the direct heat. Place 1 piece of salmon on top of each pair of orange slices. Cover the grill. Cook for 10 minutes, never removing the cover. Then remove the cover and check the fish. If it does not begin to flake when prodded with a knife, cover the grill and cook for another 2 minutes.
Transfer the oranges with the salmon on top to serving plates. Using a slotted spoon, spoon the salsa overthe fish and serve at once.
SERVES 4
Because this dish needs about 10 minutes of last-minute attention, we make this for small gatherings and as the only Mexican-inspired dish in the dinner. In this way, Mexico’s unique flavors are highlighted. But if you wish, accompany the scallops with one of the rice dishes, such as Coconut or Saffron Rice Pilaf.
2 pounds fresh sea scallops
1 ripe avocado
1 cup salted butter, at room temperature
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
¼ cup packed fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, or mint leaves, chopped
Finely grated zest of 2 limes
½ teaspoon salt
4 ounces queso fresco or goat cheese, crumbled
2 limes, cut into wedges
Pull off and discard the little extra muscle that is attached to one side of each sea scallop. Set aside. Pit, peel, and dice the avocado, and then stir it into the tomatillo salsa.
Cut the butter into small pieces. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, garlic, ginger, cilantro, lime zest, and salt. Bring to a simmer. The recipe can be completed up to this point 24 hours in advance and stored by refrigerating the butter sauce, scallops, and salsa.
When ready to serve, prepare a medium-hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Bring the butter sauce to a simmer. Toss the scallops in the butter. Spoon the tomatillo salsa across the bottom of warm serving plates.
Add the scallops to the grill grate in a single layer. Cook the scallops on both sides until the scallops begin to feel firm when pressed with a finger, about 5 minutes for large scallops. Use an offset spatula or barbecue tongs to turn the scallops.
Place the scallops on top of the tomatillo salsa. Garnish with the crumbled queso fresco and lime wedges. Serve at once.
SERVES 4
The recipe will take about 60 minutes to prepare, but almost everything can be made well in advance of cooking. It’s an ideal dish for inviting a cooking friend for dinner. That way you’ll have help stirring in the seafood and plating the dish. Serve this with one of the rice dishes from Chapter 8. With a couple of the dinner guests bringing appetizers and a dessert, the dinner takes on more of a collective spirit, and everyone has more fun.
1 pound fresh sea or bay scallops
½ pound fresh salmon fillet, skin and pinbones removed
½ pound large raw shrimp
1 ancho chile, stem and seeds removed
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 ounces achiote paste
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, preferably Mexican
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
½ medium white onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 (1½-inch) cinnamon stick, preferably Mexican
1 ripe avocado
Crumbled queso fresco or crema, for garnish
If using sea scallops, remove the muscle attached to each scallop and discard. Thinly slice the sea scallops. Cut the salmon into ½-inch-thick strips, then cut the strips into 1½-inch lengths. Peel and devein the shrimp.
Using scissors, cut open the ancho chile and discard all the seeds and stem. Bring the chicken broth to a boil. Place the ancho chile in a small bowl and cover with the boiling chicken broth. After 30 minutes, in a blender, place the ancho chile, all of the chicken broth, orange juice, achiote paste, brown sugar, oregano, and salt. Puree until liquefied.
Place a heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the oil, onion, and garlic. Cook until the onion and garlic brown, about 10 minutes. Add the orange juice mixture, plus the cinnamon stick. Simmer for about 20 minutes or until the sauce becomes thick enough to coat a spoon. Discard the cinnamon stick. The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
When ready to serve, bring the sauce to a simmer in a large saucepan over low heat, if necessary. Stir in the seafood and simmer until cooked, about 3 minutes. Pit, peel, and slice the avocado. Transfer the seafood to warm dinner plates. Garnish with the queso fresco and slices of avocado and serve at once.
SERVES 4
This brilliantly red sauce has a lingering taste and is a striking visual contrast to the barbecued shrimp. The sauce is also great served with grilled halibut or sea bass. Although the shrimp are grilled in this recipe, you can also sauté the shrimp in a 14-inch frying pan or roast them in a 450°F oven.
SPICY WATERMELON SAUCE
4 cups cubed seedless red watermelon, plus 2 cups chopped watermelon
1 cup dry red wine, such as Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon
1 tablespoon hot sauce of your choice
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 pounds large raw shrimp
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon cornstarch
½ cup crumbled queso fresco
3 tablespoons slivered fresh mint leaves
1 lime, cut into 8 wedges
To prepare the sauce, place 4 cups cubed watermelon, the wine, hot sauce, salt, and ginger in a blender. Blend to liquefy. Transfer to a 12-inch sauté pan and boil over medium-high heat for about 6 minutes until reduced to 2 cups. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. The sauce can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
Peel the shrimp and cut deeply along the top ridge. Rinse away the black vein, if present. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil and ginger. Rub the shrimp with the oil-ginger mixture. Refrigerate the shrimp up to 4 hours before cooking.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Grill the shrimp, turning them several times, until they turn white in the center (cut into a shrimp to check), about 3 minutes total. Bring the watermelon sauce to a simmer, if necessary. Dissolve the cornstarch in 1 teaspoon cold water. Stir this into the sauce. Add the remaining 2 cups chopped watermelon. Spoon the watermelon sauce onto warm serving plates. Transfer the shrimp to the center of the watermelon sauce. Sprinkle with the queso fresco and mint, and serve accompanied by lime wedges.
SERVES 4
What’s Mexican about this recipe? It’s the use of serrano chiles and cilantro in the pesto and the rub of cumin, black pepper, and lime zest on the shrimp. The dish will have even more Mexican flavor if you make wraps with warm tortillas, avocado slices, and salsa. If you are cooking for a larger group, place the shrimp in a single layer on a baking sheet, and roast the shrimp in a preheated 450°F oven until they turn white in the center when cut into (not opaque), about 5 minutes.
MEXICAN PESTO
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh ginger
1 serrano chile, cut into small pieces, including the seeds
½ cup packed fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
½ cup packed fresh basil leaves
½ cup packed fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, preferably Mexican
¼ cup toasted walnuts, pecans, or pine nuts
¼ cup grated Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime
1½ pounds raw large shrimp
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon finely grated lime zest
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
To make the pesto sauce, mince the garlic and ginger in a food processor. Add the serrano chile and mince again. Add the cilantro, basil, mint, and oregano and mince again. Add the walnuts and cheese, then mince again briefly. Add the olive oil, brown sugar, salt, and lime juice. Mince until it forms a paste, adding more olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and press plastic wrap directly across the surface of the pesto. The pesto can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
Peel the shrimp and cut deeply along the top ridge. Rinse away the black vein, if present. Rub the shrimp with the cumin, pepper, salt, lime zest, and olive oil, adding these one at a time and rubbing each evenly all over the shrimp. Set aside in the refrigerator.
To finish, make sure the pesto is at room temperature. Place a 12- or 14-inch sauté pan over high heat. When it becomes very hot, add the shrimp. Stir and toss until the shrimp turn white in the center (cut into a shrimp to check), about 3 minutes.
Stir the pesto and spread the center of each serving plate with a thick smear. Mound the shrimp on top of the pesto. Garnish with the chopped red bell pepper and serve at once.
SERVES 4
This is an easy recipe yielding a fantastic result. The fish is just rubbed with a simple mix of seasonings and then roasted in the oven with very little supervision. And the ingredients for the glaze can be combined hours ahead in a saucepan, and then brought to a low boil just before being spooned over the cooked fish.
2 pounds firm fresh fish fillets such as sea bass, black cod, or salmon cut into 4 pieces
1 teaspoon pure Mexican chile powder, such as ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
PINEAPPLE-COCONUT GLAZE
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced
1 cup chopped fresh pineapple
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves
3 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
2 limes, cut into wedges
Rub the fish on both sides with the chile, salt, and olive oil.
To make the glaze, in a bowl, combine the red bell pepper, pineapple, coconut milk, chicken broth, lime zest, salt, and mint. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the cooking oil, garlic, ginger, and chile. Sauté until the garlic begins to brown, about 15 seconds. Add the coconut-pineapple mixture. Bring to a low boil, then remove from the heat. The glaze can be prepared up to 8 hours before serving and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray.
Place the fish on the prepared baking sheet. Roast in the oven until the fish just begins to flake, about 12 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan bring the coconut sauce to a simmer.
Transfer the fish to serving plates. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Serve accompanied with lime wedges.
SERVES 4
If I could choose one favorite recipe in this book, this recipe would be near or at the top. But triumph depends on certain key elements. The guajillo chiles must be pliable and not old and wrinkled. Use only tangerines, not oranges, and freshly squeeze the juice within 8 hours of use. Pay attention to the shrimp: The shrimp should arrive at the fishmonger from their ocean home and not be the tasteless black tiger prawns that are farm-raised in Asia. Now go in the kitchen and create some magic.
1½ pounds raw large shrimp
2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 guajillo chiles
1 cup freshly squeezed tangerine juice
¼ cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 tangerines
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 whole nutmeg
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Peel the shrimp. Cut deeply along the top ridge and rinse away the black vein, if present. Combine the cooking oil with the garlic and ginger in a small bowl and set aside.
Using a scissors, cut open the dried chiles and shake out the seeds. Discard the stems. Transfer the chiles to a bowl. Pour enough boiling water over the chiles to cover them. Put a small plate on top of the chiles so they are completely submerged and let soak for 30 minutes. Transfer the chiles to a blender. Add the tangerine juice, vinegar, brown sugar, and salt. Blend until completely liquefied. Peel the tangerines and separate the tangerine segments. Set the segments aside. The recipe can be prepared up to this point 8 hours ahead with the ingredients kept refrigerated in airtight containers.
When ready to cook, combine the cornstarch with 2 teaspoons cold water. Place a 12- to 14-inch frying pan over high heat. When the pan becomes hot, add the reserved garlic-oil mixture. When the garlic begins to brown, add the shrimp. Stir and toss until the shrimp turn white in the center (cut into a shrimp to check), about 3 minutes. Add the chile–tangerine juice mixture and the tangerine segments. Bring to a rapid boil and then stir in the cornstarch mixture.
Transfer to serving plates. Using a Microplane, grate a little nutmeg over the shrimp. Garnish with the chopped cilantro and serve at once.
SERVES 4
The key to this recipe is to purchase flawlessly fresh swordfish. If the swordfish is not at the peak of freshness or has been frozen, there will be a sea of disappointed faces at the dining table. It’s easy to tell whether it’s fresh. Look for the little spots, called the blood line. If the spots are red to pink, buy the swordfish. But if the blood line is gray, or the blood line has been trimmed away by the fishmonger, purchase another kind of firm-textured fresh fish.
4 (6- to 8-ounce) swordfish steaks
½ cup All-Purpose Marinade
Watermelon Relish, for serving here
¼ cup crema
Prepare a dual-heat hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill.
Coat the swordfish on all sides with the marinade. Heat the watermelon relish to a simmer. Grill the swordfish over direct heat for about 2 minutes on each side or until lightly browned. Then slide the swordfish over to the “indirect side” of the grill, away from the heat. Cover the grill. Cook the swordfish for about 6 more minutes or until the fish is just cooked through (cut into the swordfish to check).
Transfer the swordfish to warm serving plates. Crown each piece of swordfish with a generous spoonful of the warm watermelon relish. Drizzle on some crema and serve at once.
SERVES 4
This lovely recipe requires flawlessly fresh fish and confident enough cooking skills for all your guests to view as you storm into last-minute action. If pomegranates are available—they are in season in late fall and early winter—include some of the seeds as a garnish. The bright red seeds burst with flavor and have a wonderful crunchy texture. To remove the seeds from pomegranates, submerge a whole pomegranate in a bowl full of cold water and pull the pomegranate apart. Using your thumbs and forefingers (with everything still submerged) loosen the seeds. The seeds will sink to the bottom and the pomegranate shells will float to the top. Pomegranate seeds will keep for up to 2 weeks refrigerated.
4 (6-ounce) fresh flounder or catfish fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, well beaten
1 cup panko bread crumbs
POMEGRANATE SAUCE
½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup pomegranate molasses, such as Carlo brand
3 tablespoons thin soy sauce
1 tablespoon hot sauce of your choice
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican
1½ cups flavorless cooking oil
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, or mint or basil leaves
¼ cup crumbled queso fresco
Pomegranate seeds, for garnish (optional)
Lightly season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Place the flour on a dinner plate, the eggs in a shallow bowl, and the panko on another dinner plate. Coat the fish on both sides with flour. Dip each piece into the beaten egg to coat evenly, then into the panko to coat evenly. Place on a wire rack set over a baking sheet.
To make the pomegranate sauce, combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan. The recipe can be prepared up to this point 8 hours before serving, with the sauce refrigerated in the saucepan. Do not cover the fish when refrigerating.
Place a 12-inch sauté pan over high heat. Add the cooking oil. Heat the oil until a piece of panko dropped into the oil bounces across the surface (or the end of a wooden spoon placed into the oil bubbles). Add 2 of the flounder pieces. Fry the fish until it turns golden on the underside. Gently turn over, and fry until golden on the second side, about 4 minutes total cooking. Drain on a wire rack. Fry the remaining 2 pieces the same way.
Transfer the fish to warm serving plates. Bring the pomegranate sauce to a simmer. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Garnish the flounder with the cilantro, queso fresco, and pomegranate seeds, if using. Serve at once.
SERVES 4
It is the Mango Salsa that contributes a Mexican flavor. If given a choice, choose lobster from the Atlantic coast. These are the only lobsters having the magnificent front claws packed with sweet-tasting meat. The other type of lobster, called spiny lobster, is captured along the coast from California to Chile, in Florida, throughout the South Pacific, and in the Mediterranean, and these don’t have claws. Whatever type of lobster you buy, make a point to buy lobsters that have been newly pulled from the ocean, for their special flavor gradually dissipates the longer they are kept in a holding tank.
2 teaspoons salt
4 (2-pound) live lobsters
Mango Salsa or your favorite salsa, for serving here
Bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil. Stir in the salt. Add the lobsters, head first, and then immediately cover the pot with its lid. Cook the lobsters until they turn bright red, about 8 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the boiling water.
To serve hot: When cool enough to handle, split the lobsters in half lengthwise using a sturdy kitchen knife or kitchen shears. Crack the claws with the dull edge of a sturdy knife or use a hammer! (It is less messy to cover the lobster with a clean kitchen towel—and then begin hammering!) Using paper towels, pull away and discard the green/purple liver. Serve with the mango salsa in small bowls alongside. Everyone cracks the claws and attacks with rolled-up sleeves.
To serve chilled: After pulling the lobsters out of the boiling water, transfer the lobsters to the sink or a large pot and cover the lobsters with crushed ice. Chill for 1 hour. Then split the lobsters in half lengthwise and crack the claws as directed. Discard the green/purple liver. If not serving right away, then refrigerate for up to 8 hours in advance. Accompany with the mango salsa in small bowls alongside.
SERVES 4
We’ll hazard a guess that the vast majority of people who enthusiastically order mussels at restaurants never consider purchasing them at their favorite seafood counter. But mussels are so easy to cook and make a perfect choice for a weeknight dinner. Just buy the mussels the day of cooking. Be sure to buy mussels that are tightly closed, which is the key indicator of freshness. Then cook them in this delicious Mexican salsa. Serve with hot dinner rolls or slices of garlic bread.
3 pounds live mussels
4 cups Salsa Mexicana
½ cup crumbled queso fresco
Scrub the mussels under cold running water and pull away the beards (a little seaweed-like attachment sometimes found at the edge of the shell). This can be done up to 6 hours ahead; place the mussels in a colander, cover with a wet towel, and refrigerate.
Place a 12- or 14-inch sauté pan over high heat. Add the salsa. When the salsa begins to boil, add the mussels. Cover tightly. When steam begins to escape between the lid and the pan, remove the lid. Give the mussels a stir—they should all have opened. If any do not open, discard these.
Transfer the mussels and salsa to deep soup bowls. Sprinkle with the crumbled queso fresco and serve at once. Accompany with hot dinner rolls or garlic bread.
SERVES 6
This is one of our more complicated recipes and requires a lot of last-minute stirring. So don’t undertake this on your own. Limit diners to six people, all of whom will be willing to take a turn stirring the rice. Start the evening with a couple of simple room temperature appetizers. Then everyone can assemble in the kitchen with a spoon in hand. Stir and stir, and stir again. Serve the seafood risotto as the main course, followed by a simple dinner salad, and then an outrageous chocolate dessert, perhaps contributed by one of the guests. In terms of seafood choices, this is excellent with fresh crabmeat, or large shrimp that are butterflied.
½ pound fresh chorizo sausage (sold in links, not cured)
2 guajillo chiles
12 cups low-sodium chicken broth
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 serrano chile, chopped, including the seeds
¼ cup thinly sliced fresh ginger, slices chopped
1 teaspoon black or tricolor peppercorns
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1¼ pounds fresh salmon fillet, skin and pinbones removed
1¼ pounds fresh bay or sea scallops
¼ cup olive oil
2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, or basil leaves, plus more for garnish
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
½ cup crema
Lime wedges, for serving
Squeeze the sausage meat out of the casings into a small bowl. Cut off the guajillo stems and shake out the seeds. Bring 4 cups of the chicken broth to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the chiles, submerging them with a small plate and soaking for 30 minutes. Then transfer the guajillo chiles and the broth they soaked in to a blender.
Heat a large heavy frying pan over high heat. Add the whole garlic cloves and serrano chile. Lightly blacken on two sides; then transfer to the blender. Add the ginger to the blender. In an electric spice grinder, place the pepper, coriander, salt, and cumin seeds. Grind to a fine powder, and then transfer the spices to the blender. Run the blender at high speed until everything is liquefied, about 30 seconds. Set aside.
Cut the salmon into 2-inch-long pieces that are about ¼ inch thick and 1 inch wide. If using sea scallops, pull off and discard the little secondary muscle if present; then cut the sea scallops into ¼-inch-wide slices. Combine the salmon and scallops in a bowl. The recipe can be prepared up to this point 12 hours in advance of cooking, with all food kept refrigerated in airtight containers.
Bring the remaining 8 cups chicken broth to a simmer in a large saucepan. Place a deep 14-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the ¼ cup olive oil. When hot, add the ground sausage. Cook until the sausage loses all of its raw color and breaks apart in little pieces.
Add the rice and sauté for 1 minute. Add the white wine and cook, constantly stirring, until all the wine is absorbed by the rice. Start adding the hot chicken broth, 2 cups at a time, and continue to stir until the liquid is absorbed. You do not have to stir constantly! Just give the rice a stir every 60 seconds. Add more broth each time as the broth is absorbed. When the rice still has a little raw texture and is still slightly brothy, after about 20 minutes of cooking, stir in half of the guajillo sauce. After the liquid is absorbed, stir in the remaining guajillo sauce. Taste. The rice should taste cooked but still slightly firm to the bite. Stir in the seafood and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and Parmesan, then taste and adjust the salt, if necessary. (This is when you will have a debate with your other cooks!) Spoon into shallow bowls. Serve garnished with more cilantro, the crema, and lime wedges.