The eight projects in this section include easy home décor items and basic wardrobe pieces. In each project, you will learn a few new sewing skills. If you work your way through the projects in order, your skill set will be fairly complete by the time you finish your first unlined jacket. As you repeat techniques you’ve learned in previous projects, your confidence will grow.
Four of the garment projects require a commercial pattern, so look for a pattern that closely resembles the lines and detail level of the garment shown. Certainly you should read the pattern instructions, but use the book instructions and photographs to help you sew your garment. You do not need a commercial pattern to sew the tablecloth, pillow, baby blanket, or apron.
A simple rectangular tablecloth adds elegance or accents your color scheme and is easily changed for special occasions, the changing seasons, or your mood! The neatly mitered corners look very professional, yet they are surprisingly easy to sew. This technique can be used for several other home decorating items, such as a square table topper to place over a floor-length round tablecloth, dinner napkins, placemats, or a table runner.
1 Determine the desired finished size for your tablecloth; add 4” (10 cm) to both length and width for the hem. Cut a rectangle of fabric equal to these measurements, following the cutting guidelines on pages 54 and 55.
TIP Select fabric that is wide enough for your tablecloth to be sewn in one piece: 48" (122 cm) fabric for a finished width up to 44" (112 cm), 54" (137 cm) fabric for a finished width up to 50" (127 cm), or 60" (152.5 cm) fabric for a finished width up to 56" (142 cm).
2 Press under 2" (5 cm) on all four edges of the cloth. Unfold the pressed edges and press each corner diagonally at the point where the creases intersect. Trim off the corner diagonally at the points where it crosses the foldlines. Use a dot of fabric glue stick to hold the corner in place.
3 Turn each cut edge in, aligning it to the first fold line, and press the outer fold.
4 Refold on the first fold line, encasing the raw edge to form a 1" (2.5 cm) double-fold hem. Pin the hem in place, inserting pins perpendicular to the folds (p. 19). Use additional dots of glue stick to secure the mitered folds in the corners.
5 Edgestitch along the inner fold line. At the corners, stop with the needle down in the fabric and pivot. Overlap the stitches 1/2" (1.3 cm) where they meet. Press the tablecloth.
TIP Support the bulk of the fabric to your left with a card table or other surface, so the fabric feeds easily as you stitch. This will help you maintain a nice straight stitching line.
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EDGESTITCH. Stitch as close as possible to the inner edge of the hem. Align the presser foot so that the needle will enter the fabric just inside the inner edge. Note the point on the presser foot that aligns to the edge of the hem itself. As you sew, watch the fabric as it passes under that point on the foot rather than watching the needle. Stitch slowly for the best control.
The knife-edge pillow is probably the most versatile style for decorating your home. There are no limits to the variations you can create, not only in size, color, and texture, but also in added details that give your pillow a personal touch. The directions that follow are for a knife-edge pillow that is 14" (35.5 cm) square. For your first knife-edge pillow, we recommend a firmly woven mediumweight fabric.
Ready-made knife-edge pillow inserts come in a wide selection of sizes, including 12", 14", 16", 18", 20", 24", and 30" (30.5, 35.5, 40.5, 46, 51, 61, and 76 cm) squares and a 12" × 16" (30.5 × 40.5 cm) rectangle. By adapting these cutting instructions, you can sew a cover for any size pillow insert. You can also use these instructions to sew your own pillow inserts in any size you like, stuffing them to a plumpness that pleases you.
1 Cut two 15" (38 cm) squares of fabric, aligning the sides to the fabric grainlines (page 22). A 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance is needed on each side, so 1" (2.5 cm) is added to each dimension of the desired finished size.
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DESIRED FINISHED SIZE. To make a knife-edge pillow of a different size, simply cut your fabric 1" (2.5 cm) larger in both directions than the desired finish d size of your pillow. Cut 17" (43 cm) squares for a 16" (40.5 cm) pillow; cut 13" × 19" (33 × 48.5 cm) rectangles for a 12" × 18" (30.5 × 46 cm) pillow.
2 Place the pillow front over the pillow back, right sides together, and align all four edges. Pin the layers together near the outer edges, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges (p. 42). In the center of one side, leave a 7" (18 cm) opening unpinned.
3 Place the fabric under the presser foot, just ahead of the opening. Align the cut edges of the fabric to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance guide on the bed of your machine. Remove the pin that marks the opening, before lowering the presser foot.
4 Backstitch three or four stitches; stop. Then, stitching forward, stitch the seam on all four sides, pivoting with the needle down at the corners. End the seam at the opposite side of the opening; backstitch three or four stitches.
5 Remove the fabric from the machine. Trim the threads close to the fabric. Press the seams flat to set the stitching line in the fabric. This may seem unnecessary, but it really does give you a better looking seam in the end.
TIP Most machines have a handy thread cutter located within a few inches (centimeters) of the presser foot. By using this thread cutter, you are also pulling enough thread through the needle and up from the bobbin to help you prevent a thread jam at the start of your next seam.
6 Turn back the top seam allowance, and press, applying light pressure with tip of the iron down the crease of the seam. In the area of the opening, turn back and press the top seam allowance 1/2" (1.3 cm).
7 Turn the cover over; turn back and press the remaining opening seam allowance.
8 To turn a perfect corner, fold in the seam allowances from one edge, and then fold in the seam allowances from the adjacent edge over them. Slip four fingers through the pillow opening and pinch the folded corner between your thumb and one finger. Turn that corner through the opening. Repeat with the other three corners. Your pillow cover has now been turned right side out.
9 Compress and insert the pillow form. Align the pressed edges of the opening, and pin the opening closed. Thread a hand needle and tie a knot in the end.
10 Slipstitch the opening closed, following the instructions on page 49.
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PERFECT CORNER. The corners of your pillow should be sharply squared, not rounded. To improve the appearance of a slightly rounded corner, you can push a pointed utensil into the corner from inside the pillow cover to force the stitches out to the corner. An inexpensive specialty tool, called a point turner (page 20), works well; or you can use a chop stick, a ballpoint pen with the ink ball retracted, or something similar. Use light pressure, though, so that you don’t punch a hole in the corner.
Pillows that get tossed around, leaned upon, and slid across the floor need occasional cleaning. A zipper closure sewn into a seam makes it much easier to remove and reinsert the pillow form. Any knife-edge pillow can be made with a zipper closure. Cut the fabric and prepare the pillow front and back according to the directions in the project. Then follow these directions to complete the pillow.
Purchase a conventional polyester coil zipper (not a separating style) to match your fabric, in the size indicated in the chart below.
1 Place the pillow front over the pillow back, right sides together. Pin the side that will have the zipper. Center the zipper alongside the pinned edges, and mark the seam allowances just above and below the zipper stops.
TIP For best results, select a side that was cut on the lengthwise grain of the fabric. The lengthwise grain is more stable and will have less tendency to stretch as you sew.
2 Stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam from the upper edge to the mark, backstitching at the beginning and the end. Repeat at the lower edge. Leave the center section open.
3 Machine-baste on the seamline between the marks. Clip the basting stitches every 2" (5 cm) with a seam ripper. This will make the stitches easier to remove later
4 Press the seam flat; then press the seam allowances open. Finish the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch (page 46).
TIP If your fabric is loosely woven or tends to ravel easily, repeated washings could make the seam allowances ravel away and ruin your pillow. As a preventative measure, take the time to finish all of the seam allowances.
5 Apply basting tape (page 21) to the right side of the zipper tape, running it along both outer edges.
6 Place the zipper facedown over the seam, with the zipper coil directly over the basted part of the seamline and the pull tab turned down. The zipper coil should be centered between the backstitched areas. Press with your fingers to secure the zipper to the seam allowances.
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MACHINE-BASTE. Set the machine for the longest straight stitch possible. This stitching is temporary and will be easily removed later.
7 Spread the pillow pieces flat, right side up. Insert pins in the seamline, just above and below the zipper stops. Cut 1/2" (1.3 cm) transparent tape to fit between the pins; place it down the center of the seamline.
8 Attach the zipper foot and adjust it to the left of the needle. If your zipper foot is not adjustable, adjust the needle to the right of the foot. Stitch along the outer edge of the tape, stitching across one end, down one side, and across the other end; pivot at the corners.
9 Adjust the zipper foot to the right of the needle or adjust your needle to the left of the foot. Stitch over the previous stitches at one end, down the opposite side, and over the stitches at the other end. Clip the threads.
10 Remove the tape. Carefully remove the machine basting in the seamline, using a seam ripper.
11 Open the zipper. Pin the pillow front and back, right sides together, along the three remaining sides. Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam; press. Turn the pillow cover right side out and insert the pillow form through the zipper opening.
Blankets serve many purposes in the routine of baby care. Most often they provide comfort, warmth, and security for little tykes. A blanket also provides a soft surface for rolling around on the floor or a make-do pad for a quick change when you’re on the go. With easy-to apply blanket binding and synthetic fleece fabric, you can sew up new blankets in a jiffy. Because the following method involves the use of fabric glue, you’ll want to launder the finished blanket before you use it.
1 Cut a rectangle of fabric 36" × 45" (91.5 × 115 cm). Use a quilting ruler or carpenter’s square to ensure square corners. In the following steps, unroll the binding from the package as you need it, and don’t cut it until step 7.
TIP Synthetic fleece is actually a knit fabric and is usually 60" (152.5 cm) wide. Avoid using either of the selvages as a side of your rectangle because they may be slightly stretched out of shape.
2 Beginning about 10" (25.5 cm) from one corner and working toward the corner in a clockwise direction, slip the blanket edge between the layers of the binding. Tuck the edge in as close as possible to the binding fold. Insert pins through all the layers, perpendicular to the edge. Space the pins about 2" (5 cm) apart with the heads outward.
TIP Be sure to keep the binding folded smooth and flat over the edge, so that the outer crease remains sharp. This will ensure that the finished binding edges on the front and back of the blanket are perfectly aligned.
3 Set the machine to sew a multistitch zigzag (page 46) at maximum width and 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm. Place the blanket under the presser foot at the binding end, with the inner edge of the binding aligned to the left side of the presser foot opening. Stitch to the fabric edge, removing pins as you come to them. Stop, and remove the fabric from the machine.
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LEFT SIDE OF THE PRESSER FOOT OPENING. The opening in the center of the presser foot is more than wide enough to accommodate the widest stitch your machine can sew. Guide the fabric, keeping a tiny space between the binding edge and the left edge of the opening. The farthest left stitch of the needle should just stitch off the edge of the binding. Adjust the position slightly, if necessary.
4 Take the blanket to the ironing board. Open out the binding at the corner, and fold it down along the next side, so that the fabric edge aligns to the binding fold. A 45° angle will form in the binding. Press the angle lightly with the tip of the iron.
5 Fold the binding closed so that the angled fold forms a mitered corner. The fold runs diagonally from the outer corner to the inner corner, matching up perfectly.
6 Flip the blanket over and miter the back of the binding so that the diagonal fold on the back also lines up perfectly. Using a fabric glue stick (page 20), secure the folds in place. This is called glue-basting.
7 Encase and pin the blanket edge to the next corner. Place the blanket under the presser foot, aligning the inner corner of the miter to the left side of the presser foot opening. Backstitch two or three stitches. Stitch forward to the fabric edge at the next corner. Stop, and remove the blanket from the machine.
8 Repeat steps 4 to 7 for the remaining corners. On the side where you started, cut the binding 4" (10 cm) beyond the beginning. Open the fold; press under 2" (5 cm) at the end.
9 Refold and finish encasing and pinning the blanket edge. The folded end should overlap the cut end 2" (5 cm). Glue-baste the folded end in place. Stitch the last side, stitching about 1" (2.5 cm) beyond the overlap. Remove the blanket from the machine, and clip the threads.
10 Reset the stitch length to 0. Place the overlapped binding ends under the presser foot so that the fold is about 1/4" (6 mm) ahead of the presser foot opening. Stitch in place until the needle has traveled from left to right at least twice. This tacking will keep the ends in place through many launderings.
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RESET THE STITCH LENGTH TO 0. The machine will still stitch side to side, as it is still set for multistitch-zigzag, but the fabric will not move forward.
Skirts with elastic waistbands are classic, comfortable, and easy-care. Straight or flared versions in varying lengths can be coordinated with a variety of sweaters or other tops for business, dress, or casual wear.
Check the pattern envelope for recommended fabrics. Some patterns are designed only for knits and generally fit the body closer, counting on the stretchiness of the fabric to allow you to slide the skirt over your hips. Patterns suitable for woven fabrics will include extra fullness. The first set of directions works for woven or knit fabrics. Alternate steps for sewing with knits begin on page 86. These directions may differ from your pattern; be sure to use the seam allowance given in your pattern. Select a pattern with two pieces: a front and a back. An elastic casing at the waistline is formed from excess fabric length at the skirt top. The skirt itself may be constructed of two, three, or four sections, depending on whether or not there are center front or back seams.
1 To construct the skirt following these directions, 23/4" (7 cm) of fabric must be allowed for the casing above the waistline. This may be different from the casing allowance already on your pattern. Measure this distance from the waistline, and mark a cutting line on your pattern. (Add extra paper, if necessary.) Be sure to mark both front and back pattern pieces.
2 Prepare the fabric (page 25), lay out the pattern (page 32), and cut the fabric (page 36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Insert a size 11/70 or 12/80 sharp or universal sewing machine needle. If your pattern does not have center front or back seams, move on to step 4. If your pattern has a center front seam, place the skirt front pieces right sides together, aligning the center cut edges and matching the notches. Insert pins perpendicular to the center front seam.
TIP Be sure you are not pinning the pieces together along the side seams. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference. Check your pattern to be sure.
3 Place the fabric under the presser foot with the cut edges aligned to the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance guide. Stitch the center front seam, backstitching a few stitches at the upper and lower edges. If your pattern has a center back seam, stitch it in the same manner.
TIP If your skirt has side seam pockets, follow the pattern directions carefully because methods vary greatly.
4 Place the front and back skirt pieces right sides together, aligning the side edges and matching the notches. Insert pins perpendicular to the sides (p. 43). Stitch the side seams, backstitching at the upper and lower edges, and removing pins as you come to them (p. 43). If you are sewing on a woven fabric, finish (page 46) the edges of all the seam allowances.
5 Press all the seams flat to set the stitching line in the fabric. This may seem unnecessary, but it really does give you a better-looking seam in the end. Then press the seam allowances open.
TIP To prevent the cut edge of the seam allowance from imprinting the front of the fabric, press seams open over a seam roll or hard cardboard tube.
6 Baste the seam allowances open flat from the upper edge down about 4" (10 cm) (arrow). This will keep them from getting in the way when you insert the elastic in step 9. Finish the waistline edge, using a multistitch-zigzag (page 46). Fold the upper edge 11/2" (3.8 cm) to the wrong side, and press. Insert pins along and perpendicular to the fold.
7 Edgestitch close to the fold around the upper edge of the waistline. Begin and end at a side seam, overlapping the stitches about 1/2" (1.3 cm).
8 Insert pins along the lower edge of the casing. Place a piece of tape on the bed of your machine 11/4" (3.2 cm) from the tip of the needle. Stitch the lower edge of the casing, guiding the upper edge along the tape. Leave a 2" (5 cm) opening at one side seam.
TIP Sometimes it is difficult to tell the skirt front from the back when the garment is finished. We’ve sewn a short loop of twill tape under the casing seam to identify the back.
9 Fasten a safety pin or bodkin (page 19) to one end of the elastic, and insert the elastic through the casing opening. Push and pull the safety pin all the way to the opposite side of the opening. Remove the basting threads from step 6.
TIP Insert a large safety pin across the free end of the elastic so that it will not get pulled into the opening.
10 Try on the skirt. Pull up the elastic to fit your waist snugly, yet comfortably; pin the ends together. Take off the skirt, and trim the overlapped ends to 1/2" (1.3 cm), if necessary.
11 Pull the pinned ends of the elastic several inches (centimeters) out of the casing. Place them under the presser foot, and stitch through both layers, using a multistitch-zigzag. To reinforce, stitch again.
12 Machine-stitch the opening in the casing closed. Distribute the casing fullness evenly around the elastic. Stitch in the ditch at the seams (arrow) to keep the elastic from shifting or rolling.
13 Try on the skirt, and have someone mark the hem length for you, using chalk or pins. Take off the skirt, and trim the hem allowance to an even depth. (Check the pattern for hem allowance.) Turn under the hem along the markings, and pin. Press. For double-fold hems on slightly flared skirts, it is helpful to hand-baste on the inner fold.
14 Stitch the hem by hand (page 52) or by machine (page 53); select a method that will allow the hem to stretch, if you are using a knit. Give the skirt a final pressing, and give yourself a pat on the back.
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STITCH IN THE DITCH. Stitching from the right side and using short stitches, stitch directly into the well of the seam. Your stitches will practically disappear.
MARK THE HEM LENGTH. During the marking, stand straight, wearing the shoes you will be wearing with the skirt. The person marking should measure up from the floor to the desired length, moving around you as necessary. Otherwise, the hem will be uneven. If you don’t have help, turn up the hem to the desired length all the way around and check in a mirror for even length.
1 To construct a knit skirt following these directions, an amount of fabric equal to twice the width of the elastic must be allowed above the waistline. Measure this distance from the waistline, and mark a new cutting line on your pattern. (Add extra paper, if necessary.) Be sure to mark both front and back pattern pieces. Follow steps 2 to 5 on pages 82 and 83, sewing with the seam allowances designated by your pattern. It is not necessary to finish seams on knit skirts.
TIP Read your pattern directions. Some patterns, especially those that have 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances, instruct you to sew your elastic waistline with this method. There is no need to alter those patterns, as they already allow this amount of fabric at the top.
2 Cut a piece of elastic that fits your waist snugly, yet still stretch to fit over your hips. Overlap the ends 1/2" (1.3 cm), and stitch them together, using a wide zigzag stitch or multistitch-zigzag. Divide both the elastic and the upper edge of the skirt into fourths, and pin-mark. Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the skirt, aligning the edges and matching the pin marks; insert the pins perpendicular to the edges.
3 Insert four more pins, evenly spaced, between the quarter marks, distributing the fabric fullness evenly. Set your machine for a medium-width multistitch-zigzag. Place the skirt under the presser foot with the elastic on top. Align the edge of the foot to the elastic and fabric edges. Stitch, stretching the elastic to fit between the pins and keeping the edges aligned. Remove pins as you come to them, stopping with the needle down in the fabric.
4 Fold the elastic to the wrong side of the skirt, so the fabric encases the elastic. From the right side of the skirt, stitch in the ditch (p. 85) of the seam through all the waistband layers, at each seam. This step makes step 5 easier.
TIP Stretch the waistband slightly to give yourself a clear view of your target.
5 With the right side facing up, topstitch through all layers of the waistband, stretching the elastic as you sew. Use either a zigzag or multistitch-zigzag, with medium width and length, and stitch near the lower edge of the elastic. These stitches will allow the skirt to stretch as it goes over your hips. Finish the skirt, following steps 13 and 14 on page 85.
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TWICE THE WIDTH OF THE ELASTIC. For this method, 1" (2.5 cm) elastic works well, though you may decide to use a different width. Some specialty elastics have channels for topstitching, giving the look of multiple rows.
STRETCHING THE ELASTIC TO FIT BETWEEN THE PINS. Grasp the fabric and elastic behind the presser foot with one hand and ahead of the presser foot with the other hand, working in small sections at a time. Stretch the elastic only far enough to take up the slack in the fabric. Keep an even tension on the elastic, allowing the feed dogs to feed the fabric at a steady pace. Stop sewing to move your hands.
Pull-on pants with elastic waists are easy to fit and easy to sew. When sewn in supple, lightweight wovens, such as rayon or microfiber, they are elegant enough for evening wear. For sportier looks, cotton, cotton blends, linen, or seersucker work well and can be paired with simple T-shirts or blouses. Consider purchasing enough fabric to make a matching jacket to go with your pants and complete the outfit.
Select a pants pattern with two main pieces: the front and the back. The elastic casing for the waist is formed from excess fabric at the top. These instructions are for pants without pockets. The method for sewing side-seam pockets varies from pattern to pattern. Once you understand the basics of sewing pull-on pants, you can advance to a pattern with pockets, following the pattern instructions closely.
The waistband casing on these pants is divided in half with a stitching line to accommodate two elastic strips.
1 Measure the length of the crotch seam on a pair of pants that you know fits comfortably. Start from the bottom of the waistband in the front and measure the distance around the crotch to the bottom of the waistband in the back. On your pattern, measure the total crotch length, standing the tape measure on edge and measuring along the seamline of the center front and center back. Begin and end at the waistline mark; don’t include the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances at the inseam.
2 Compare the pants crotch length to the pattern crotch length. Alter your pattern, if necessary. Cut the pattern pieces apart on the horizontal adjustment line. Then lap the pieces by half the total amount needed to shorten (left), or separate the pieces by half the total amount needed to lengthen (right). Insert a paper strip to lengthen; tape the pieces in place.
3 Next, compare the inseam measurements on your pants and on your pattern, measuring from the crotch seamline to the hemline. Make any necessary alteration at the horizontal adjustment line.
4 To construct the pants following these directions, 23/4" (7 cm) of fabric must be allowed for the casing above the waistline. Measure this distance from the waistline, and mark a new cutting line on your pattern. (Add extra paper, if necessary.) Be sure to mark both front and back pattern pieces.
5 Prepare the fabric (page 25), lay out the pattern (page 32), and cut the fabric (page 36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Set your sewing machine on a straight stitch of 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2 to 2.5 mm. Insert a sewing machine needle suitable for your fabric (page 12). Place the right front over the right back, right sides together, along the inner leg. Pin them together, matching notches and inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges (p.43). Stitch the seam, using 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance unless your pattern indicates another seam allowance. Repeat for the left front and back legs.
6 Finish the edges of the seam allowances (page 46). Press the seams flat; then press them open.
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BY HALF THE TOTAL AMOUNT NEEDED. For example, if you need to shorten the crotch 1" (2.5 cm), shorten the pants front 1/2" (1.3 cm), and shorten the pants back 1/2" (1.3 cm).
7 With right sides together, pin the sewn right and left pants sections together at the crotch seam. Line up the inner leg seams, and match any notches. Stitch the entire seam. Then stitch the curved area of the seam between the notches a second time, 1/4" (6 mm) from the first stitching.
8 Trim the seam in the curved area of the crotch close to the second stitching line. Finish the trimmed seam allowances. Then also finish the remaining seam allowances separately. Press the seam allowances open in the front and back, above the trimmed portion of the seam.
9 Pin the front and back, right sides together, at the side seams, matching notches and any other marks. Stitch a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam from the bottom of the leg to the upper edge. Repeat for the other side seam.
10 Finish the seam allowances separately. Press the seams flat; then press them open, using a seam roll. Baste all the seam allowances open flat from the upper edge down about 4" (10 cm). This will keep them from getting in the way when you insert the elastic in step 15.
11 Finish the waistline (page 46). Fold the upper edge 11/2" (3.8 cm) to the wrong side, and press. Insert pins along and perpendicular to the fold.
12 Edgestitch (p. 63) close to the fold around the upper edge of the waistline. Begin and end at a side seam, overlapping the stitches about 1/2" (1.3 cm).
13 Place a piece of tape on the bed of your machine 11/4" (3.2 cm) from the tip of the needle. Stitch the lower edge of the casing, guiding the upper edge along the tape. Leave a 2" (5 cm) opening at one side seam.
14 Measure from the upper edge of the waist to a point halfway between the two stitching lines. Place tape on the machine bed as a sewing guide. Stitch, leaving a 2" (5 cm) opening just above the first opening.
TIP To use three rows of 1/4" (6 mm) elastic in your waistline casing, divide the space into even thirds.
15 Cut two pieces of 3/8" (1 cm) elastic a little larger than your waist measurement. Fasten a safety pin or bodkin (page 19) to one end of one elastic, and insert the elastic through the casing opening into the top channel. Push and pull the safety pin through all the way to the opposite side of the opening, taking care not to let the free end disappear into the opening. Then do the same with the second piece of elastic, inserting it into the lower channel. Secure the ends of both pieces with safety pins.
16 Try on the pants. Pull up the elastic to fit your waist snugly, yet comfortably; pin the ends together. Take off the pants. Pull the pinned ends of the top elastic several inches (centimeters) out of the casing. Trim the overlapped ends to 1/2" (1.3 cm), if necessary. Place them under the presser foot, and stitch through both layers, using a multistitch-zigzag. Repeat for the lower elastic.
17 Machine-stitch the openings in the casing closed. Distribute the casing fullness evenly around the elastic. Stitch in the ditch (p. 85) at the seams to keep the elastic from shifting or rolling. Remove the basting stitches from step 10.
18 Turn under the hem allowance, and pin in place. Try on the pants, and adjust the length, if necessary. Take off the pants, and trim the hem allowance to an even depth. Press the fold. Finish the lower edge. Stitch the hem by hand (page 52) or by machine (page 53). Give the pants a final pressing, and they’re ready to wear!
T-shirts are classic and versatile; it seems you can never have too many. As you become more experienced, you’ll be surprised how quickly you are able to make them. The fun begins in selecting your knit fabric (page 23) from the array of stripes, prints, and colorful solids available.
To help you decide which pattern to buy, note the way the t-shirts fit the models or sketches on the pattern envelope front. Some patterns are designed for an oversized look, others are meant to fit your body more closely. Your pattern should have four pieces: front, back, sleeve, and neck ribbing. Some may also have a piece for sleeve ribbing.
The fit of the T-shirt will vary with the fabric’s degree of stretch. T-shirt patterns, designed for knits only, indicate the amount of stretch required of the fabric. For instance, “25% stretch crosswise” would indicate that 4" (10 cm) of fabric will stretch on the crosswise grain an additional 1" (2.5 cm). Always test the degree of stretch in the fabric, especially if you are making a close-fitting T-shirt.
1 Prepare the fabric (page 25); however, don’t wash the ribbing, as the raw edges are likely to stretch out of shape. T-shirts are easiest to sew using 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances. If your pattern pieces have 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances, trim them down to 1/4" (6 mm) before laying out the pattern. Lay out the pattern (page 32), and cut the fabric (page 36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Insert a ballpoint sewing machine needle; size 11/70 or 12/80 is suitable for most knits. Cut two 1/2" (1.3 cm) strips of fusible interfacing the length of the shoulder seam. Place a strip even with the cut edge of each back shoulder, on the wrong side of the fabric. Fuse the strips in place, following the manufacturer’s directions. This is done to stabilize the shoulder seams.
TIP The interfacing bolt is wrapped with a long sheet of plastic on which the directions are printed. Have the store clerk cut off a section of the directions for you to take home.
2 Place the T-shirt front over the back, right sides together, aligning the shoulder seam allowance edges. Pin, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges. Stitch the front and back T-shirt sections together at the shoulder seams, using a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance; backstitch a few stitches at each edge. Since the shoulder seams are stabilized, a straight stitch is appropriate here.
3 Add a second row of machine stitching (either a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag) next to the first row, within the seam allowance. Press the shoulder seam allowances toward the shirt back.
4 Mark the center front and center back of the neckline with pins. Then bring the two centers together and mark the points halfway between with pins. (these marks should be slightly ahead of the shoulder seams.) The neckline is now divided into fourths.
5 Sew the short ends of the ribbing, right sides together, forming a circle. Use 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance, and sew with a short straight stitch. Press the seam open with your fingers. Avoid pressing ribbing with an iron, as this may destroy its elasticity.
6 Fold the ribbing in half, lengthwise, with the raw edges even and the seam allowances on the inside. Divide the ribbing into fourths, as you did the neckline. Mark these sections with pins.
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STABILIZE THE SHOULDER SEAMS. Shoulder seams follow the crosswise grain, the direction in which knit fabrics stretch the most. However, it is not desirable or necessary to have shoulder seams that stretch. Narrow strips of fusible interfacing help the seams keep their intended length. You’ll also find that this makes sewing in the stretchy direction much easier.
RIBBING, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Sometimes knit fabrics and ribbings do not have a right or wrong side. To test, gently stretch the raw edge on the crosswise grain of the ribbing. If the edge curls to one side, that side is the right side of the fabric. If it doesn’t curl to either side, either side can be used on the outside.
7 Pin the ribbing to the right side of the neckline, aligning the ribbing seam to the center back pin mark; match up the remaining pin marks.
8 Place the fabric under the presser foot, with the ribbing facing up. Stitch with a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch (page 47), keeping the raw edges even and stretching the ribbing evenly to fit each section between pins. Remove the pins as you come to them.
9 Stitch again next to the first row, using a narrow, medium-length zigzag stitch. Gently press the ribbing toward the shirt, being careful not to stretch the ribbing.
10 Make sure you have marked the top of the sleeve and any other notches on the sleeve and shirt as indicated on the pattern pieces. With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the armhole of the shirt, matching the top dot or notch to the shoulder seam, and aligning any other notches. Pin frequently, easing in any extra sleeve fullness.
11 Stitch the armhole seam, using a narrow, medium-length zigzag stitch; remove the pins as you come to them. Stitch again next to the first row, within the seam allowance.
12 Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the other sleeve. Press the seams toward the sleeves. With the right sides together, pin the shirt front to the shirt back along the sides and sleeves, matching the underarm seams.
13 Stitch and finish the seams in the same manner as for the sleeve seams, beginning at the lower edge of the shirt and sewing continuously to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press the seams toward the back.
TIP You can press the side seams, simply by slipping the shirt over the end of the ironing board. Insert a seam roll or sleeve board (page 18) into the sleeve, so you can press the seam allowance to the side without pressing unwanted creases into the opposite side of the sleeve.
14 Turn under the lower hem allowance, as specified by your pattern. Stitch the hem by hand (page 52) or by machine (page 53); select a method that will allow the hem to stretch, if necessary. Hem the lower edges of the sleeves in the same manner.
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HEM ALLOWANCE. The pattern has allowed a predetermined extra length for turning under and finishing the sleeves and lower edge. This amount is indicated on your pattern.
With the renewed interest in cooking and retro fashions, aprons have made a grand comeback. Made from a washable fabric with a fun print, this apron has a skirt gathered to a waistband with ties attached. Contrasting fabric was used for the pockets, waistband, and ties. Rickrack trim applied to the pockets and skirt hem give the apron a retro look.
This style is made from six rectangles of fabric: a large rectangle for the skirt, two smaller rectangles for the pockets, two long narrow rectangles for ties, and one for the waistband. You don’t need to buy a commercial pattern, you can simply measure and mark out the pieces on your fabric and cut them out.
1 Prepare the fabric (page 25). Lay out the fabric in a single layer. Using a carpenter’s square or quilter’s ruler, measure and mark out the rectangles listed below. Mark the skirt piece on one fabric; mark the waistband, pockets, and ties on the other fabric. Do not use a selvage as one of the sides. Cut out the pieces.
2 Fold upper edge of one pocket piece 1" (2.5 cm) to the wrong side and press. Unfold the edge and turn the raw edge in to meet the pressed fold; press again. Then refold the edge, and press again, forming a double-fold facing. Repeat for the other pocket.
3 Turn the facing to the right side of the pocket, even with the bottom fold. Pin the layers together at the sides. Starting at the top of the pocket, stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam to the bottom of the facing on each side of the pocket, backstitching at the beginning and end. Trim the corners diagonally. Trim the facing seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm)
4 Turn the facing to the inside. Using a point turner or similar tool, gently push out the corners to square them off. Press the top fold; the facing should be 1/2" (1.3 cm) wide. Fold in the sides 1/2" (1.3 cm), and press. To square the bottom corners, turn under 1/2" (1.3 cm) on the bottom, and press.
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TRIM THE UPPER CORNERS DIAGONALLY. This minimizes the excess bulk to form a smoother corner when the piece is turned back to the inside.
5 Find the 3/8" (1 cm) seam guide on the throat plate. For easier guiding, mark this distance from the needle on the machine bed, using tape. Topstitch the upper edge of the pocket, guiding the fold along the tape mark and catching the facing in the stitches.
6 Cut rick rack the width of the pocket plus 11/4" (3.2 cm). Apply glue stick to the back of the rick rack. Place the rick rack over the facing stitching line, wrapping the ends to the underside of the pocket. Stitch down the center of the rick rack, backstitching at the sides of the pocket. Repeat for other pocket.
7 Place the pockets on the apron skirt 91/2" (24.1 cm) from the long bottom edge and 6" (15.2 cm) from the sides. Make sure the pocket edges are parallel to the skirt edges. Pin the sides and bottom edges of the pockets to the skirt, inserting the pins perpendicular to the pocket edges.
8 With a pencil or erasable fabric marker, draw a small triangle in each upper corner of each pocket, 1/8" (3 mm) from the top and side edges. Place the skirt under the presser foot with the top of the pocket toward you, aligning the needle to start sewing at the lowest point of the triangle. Stitch forward two stitches, then backstitch two stitches. Now stitch diagonally to the top, pivot, and stitch a few stitches across the top of the triangle. Pivot again so the needle is now aligned to stitch down the side of the pocket. Edgestitch around the sides and the bottom of the pocket, and finish with the triangle on the opposite corner, again backstitching two stitches.
TIP Apron pockets are used frequently. Stitching triangles at the top corners reinforces them better than merely backstitching, which can put more strain on the skirt fabric beneath the pocket.
9 Turn under the lower edge of the skirt 2" (5.1 cm) and press. Unfold the edge and turn the raw edge in to meet the pressed fold; press again. Refold the edge, forming a 1" (2.5 cm) double-fold hem. Insert pins perpendicular to the folds.
10 At the bottom corner of the skirt, turn the hem to the right side, keeping the inner fold in place. Pin the layers together at the sides. Stitch a 1" (2.5 cm) seam across the hem, backstitching at the beginning and end. Trim the corner diagonally. Turn the corner right side out. Repeat for other side.
11 Fold and press 1/2" (1.3 cm) double-fold hems in the skirt sides, making the first fold 1" (2.5 cm) deep. Insert pins perpendicular to the folds.
12 Place the skirt, right side down, under the presser foot with the bulk of the fabric to the left of the machine. Beginning at the top of the side hem, stitch along the inner fold, removing pins as you come to them. Pivot at the top fold of the bottom hem, and stitch along the hem fold to the opposite side. Pivot again, and stitch along the inner fold of the other side hem to the skirt top.
13 Cut rick rack the width of the skirt plus 11/4" (3.2 cm). Apply rickrack over the stitching line of the bottom hem, following step 6.
14 Set your machine to sew long straight stitches. Beginning at one side hem, baste a scant 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the top edge of the skirt. Stitch from the right side of the fabric. Stop stitching at the opposite side hem. Stitch another row of long stitches 1/4" (6 mm) closer to the edge. Leave thread tails at each end. Set the skirt aside.
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DOUBLE-FOLD HEM. Double-fold hems are made with two folds of equal depths, encasing the cut edge in the crease of the outer fold. Pressing the first fold to the total hem depth allows you to be more accurate in turning and pressing.
15 Fold a tie lengthwise, with right sides together and raw edges even. Insert pins perpendicular to the edges. Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam across one end of the tie and the long edge. Trim corners diagonally. Repeat for the other tie. Turn the ties right side out. Press. Topstitch 1/8" (3 mm) from outside edges. Set the ties aside.
16 Press the waistband in half lengthwise, and unfold. Place the interfacing strip, fusible side down, on the wrong side of the waistband, aligning one long edge to the center crease and centering the strip lengthwise. Fuse the interfacing in place.
17 Press under 3/8" (1 cm) on the long unfused edge of the waistband. Mark the cut edge of the waistband 1/2" (1.3 cm) from each end. Then divide the waistband into four equal parts, and mark, using chalk pencil or erasable marker. Also divide the upper edge of the skirt into four equal parts, and mark.
18 With right sides together, pin the cut edge of the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt, matching quarter marks. Insert pins from the skirt side. At one end, grasp both of the bobbin threads, and pull on them with equal tension, sliding the fabric along the thread to gather it.
19 Keep pulling on the bobbin threads, gathering the fabric, and distributing the gathers evenly between the pins on half of the waistband. When the skirt fabric is gathered up to fit that half, secure the bobbin threads by winding them in a figure eight around the end pin.
20 Pull the bobbin threads from the other end to gather the remaining half; secure the threads. Distribute all the gathered fabric evenly along the waistband, inserting pins frequently to hold the fabric in place.
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TURN THE TIES RIGHT SIDE OUT. There are special tools for turning narrow tubes inside out. Look for them at the fabric store. Because this is a frequently required task in sewing, it is worth it to buy one of these tools. In a pinch, you can probably get the job done by working the fabric over the eraser end of a pencil or a wooden spoon handle, but it’s much harder to do.
21 Reset the stitch length for 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2 to 2.5 mm. Place the fabric under the presser foot, the waistband on the bottom. Stitch the waist seam 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the raw edges. Keep the gathers even and remove pins as you come to them.
22 Trim the seam allowances just above the gathering stitches.
23 Turn the seam allowance toward the waistband, and press lightly with the tip of the iron. Avoid pressing creases into the gathers.
24 Pin the ties to the short ends of the waistband, right sides together. Fold the center crease of the waistband in the opposite direction over the ties, right sides together. Stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam across each end of the waistband. Trim the seams and clip the corners diagonally.
25 Turn the waistband right side out, encasing the raw ends of the ties. Press. The folded edge should extend down over the seam on the wrong side. From the right side, pin in the ditch of the waistband seam, catching the folded edge on the back.
TIP Be sure to keep the seam allowance turned up as it was pressed. Check to be sure the folded edge of the waistband is pinned at a consistent depth and lies flat.
26 Stitch in the ditch (p. 85) of the seam from the right side of the skirt, backstitching at the ends of the waistband and removing pins as you come to them. Be careful not to catch the ties in the stitching.
Collarless jackets are versatile additions to any wardrobe. Those that are loose-fitting and unlined, with drop-shoulder styling and patch pockets, are easy to make. Look for a pattern that includes pieces for front, back, sleeve, front facing, back facing, and pocket.
these directions are for square bottom front corners. If your pattern has round corners, pay close attention to the pattern directions when attaching the facing (step 11) and hemming the lower edge (steps 24 to 27). As with any other project, the fabric of your jacket will determine whether it will be more suitable for casual, business, or dress. Cotton, cotton blends, and denim would be good choices to wear with jeans or casual slacks and skirts. Wool, wool blends, linen, and rayon work for business or dress. When you’re feeling really confident, you might even consider making a jacket of suit-weight silk, like the one at left.
1 Prepare the fabric (page 25). Lay out the pattern pieces (page 32), and cut out (page 36) all but the facings. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric for the facings, following the manufacturer’s directions (p. 98). Then cut out the facings. Transfer any necessary marks (page 37).
2 Turn under the top edge of the pocket 1/4" (6 mm); press. To finish the edge, set your machine for a zigzag stitch of medium length and width. Stitch close to the folded edge, so that the right-hand swing of the needle just clears the fold.
3 Turn the upper edge of the pocket (the facing) to the outside on the foldline; pin at the sides. Starting at the top of the pocket, stitch a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam to the bottom of the facing on each side of the pocket, backstitching at the beginning and end. Trim the facing seam allowance to 3/8" (1 cm). Trim the upper corners diagonally.
4 Turn the facing to the inside. Using a point turner or similar tool, gently push out the corners to square them off. Press the top fold. If the pocket has square bottom corners, turn under 5/8" (1.5 cm) on the bottom, and press. Then repeat for the side edges.
5 Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch of 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2 to 2.5 mm. Measure the finished width of the facing; subtract 1/8" (3 mm). Mark this distance from the needle on the machine bed, using tape. Topstitch the upper edge of the pocket, guiding the fold along the tape mark and catching the facing in the stitches.
6 Repeat steps 2 to 5 for the other pocket. Place the pockets on the jacket front, matching the upper corners to the markings transferred from the pattern. Pin them securely in place, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges (p. 43). Edgestitch around the sides and bottom of the pockets, backstitching at both upper corners. Stop with the needle down in the fabric to pivot at each corner. Remove the pins as you come to them (p. 43).
7 Pin the jacket fronts to the jacket back at the shoulders, with right sides together, aligning the cut edges and matching any notches. Insert the pins perpendicular to the edges.
8 Stitch the seams, guiding the cut edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance guide. Press the seams flat; then press them open.
9 Sew the front facings to the back facing at the shoulders as in steps 7 and 8. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm). Finish the inner, unnotched edges of the front facings and the lower edge of the back facing (arrows) as in step 2.
10 Pin the facing to the jacket, right sides together, aligning the cut edges. Match the shoulder seams and all notches. At the shoulders, insert a pin in the wells of the seams, to keep them aligned.
11 Stitch the facing to the jacket, guiding the cut edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance guide. Stitch continuously from one lower edge, around the neckline, to the opposite lower edge; backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end. Remove the pins as you come to them, and keep the shoulder seam allowances open flat.
12 Grade the seam allowances by trimming the jacket neckline seam allowance to 3/8" (1 cm) and the facing seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm). Clip into the neckline seam allowance every 1/2" (1.3 cm), clipping up to, but not through, the stitches. Clipping allows the facing to turn smoothly to the inside and lie flat.
13 Press the seam allowances flat; then press them toward the facing. With the right side up, place the facing (A) under the presser foot, so the needle is aligned to enter the fabric just to the right of the seam at the lower left front; the jacket (B) extends off the left of the machine bed. Keeping the seam allowance turned toward the facing (arrows), stitch all around the fronts and neckline very close to the seam. You will be stitching through the facing and the seam allowance, but not through the jacket. This step, called understitching, helps the facing lie flat.
TIP Along the curve of the neckline, keep the facing lying flat, allowing the jacket to “bunch up” to the left of the curve. Stitch, following the curve of the facing. The clipped seam allowance will “fan out” underneath the facing.
14 Turn the facing to the inside; press. Align the shoulder seams, and smooth them out to the sleeve edge. Pin the facing to the sleeve edge, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edge. Set your machine for long straight stitches. Baste the facings to the sleeve edges.
TIP Some jacket patterns have facings that do not extend all the way to the sleeve edge. Align the shoulder seam allowances, and stitch in the ditch (p. 85) to secure the facing to the jacket.
15 Pin the sleeve to the jacket, with right sides together. Align the cut edges, and match the notches. You probably also have a mark on the sleeve edge that aligns to the jacket shoulder seam. Count the notches to be sure you are pinning the correct sleeve. Pin frequently from the jacket side, easing the sleeve to fit smoothly.
16 Place the jacket under the presser foot, with the sleeve underneath. Stitch the seam, guiding the edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance guide. Remove the pins as you come to them.
17 Check from the sleeve side, to be sure there are no puckers. If there are any, clip the stitches, using a seam ripper, and remove the stitches on either side of the pucker far enough to smooth it out; restitch.
18 Stitch a second line in the seam allowances, 1/4" (6 mm) from the first stitching line, from the notches to each end. Trim the seam allowances in this area close to the second stitching line.
19 Repeat steps 15 to 18 for the opposite sleeve. Set your machine for a medium-length, medium-width zigzag stitch. For each sleeve, finish the seam allowance edges together, stitching so that the right swing of the needle just clears the fabric edge. Press the seam allowances toward the sleeves.
20 Pin the jacket front to the jacket back, right sides together, along the side seams and extending on to the underarm sleeve seams. Match notches, and align the sleeve seams. Insert the pins perpendicular to the edges.
21 Stitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam from the bottom of one side continuously to the end of the sleeve. Keep the underarm seam allowances turned toward the sleeve. Repeat for the opposite side.
22 Finish the side and underarm seam allowances as in step 2. Press the seam allowances flat; then press them open.
TIP Press the seam allowances open over a seam roll to prevent imprinting the seam allowance edges onto the right side of the jacket and to make it easier to press the sleeve seams open.
23 Finish the lower edge of the jacket as in step 2. Repeat for the lower edges of the sleeves. Turn under the remaining hem allowances on the sleeves, and press, using a seam roll or sleeve board (page 18). Slipstitch (page 52) the hems to the jacket.
24 Place the jacket on your ironing board, wrong side up; open the front facings. Turn under the remaining hem allowance on the lower edge, including the facings; press.
25 Unfold the lower edge. Turn the jacket over, and turn the facing to the outside, aligning the lower edges. Pin, keeping the facing seam allowances turned toward the facing. Stitch the facing to the jacket, stitching in the well of the pressed fold. Repeat for the opposite side.
26 Trim the facing seam allowance to within 1/4" (6 mm) of the stitches. Trim the corner diagonally, to within 1/8" (3 mm) of the corner stitch. Repeat for the opposite side. Turn the facings to the inside, and press.
27 Refold the remaining hem, and pin. Slipstitch the hem to the jacket. At the fronts, slipstitch the facings to the hem.
28 Topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the edges along the fronts and neckline of the jacket, if desired. If your jacket has buttons, transfer the buttonhole placement marks from your pattern to the right jacket front. Make buttonholes, following the directions in your sewing machine owner’s manual. Transfer the button placement marks to the left front. Sew buttons as on page 50 or 51.
