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GIVERNY & AUVERS-SUR-OISE

Giverny

Map: Giverny

Orientation to Giverny

Sights in Giverny

Sleeping and Eating in Giverny

Auvers-sur-Oise

Orientation to Auvers-sur-Oise

Sights in Auvers-sur-Oise

Eating in Auvers

Paris is the unofficial capital of Impressionism, its museums speckled with sun-dappled paintings. But avid Impressionist fans will want to do what the Impressionist painters did: Don a scarf and beret, and escape to the countryside.

At Giverny and Auvers-sur-Oise, follow in the footsteps of Monet, Van Gogh, Pissarro, Cézanne, and others. See the landscapes and small-town life that inspired these great masters. Little has changed over time: You’ll be surrounded by pastoral scenes that still look like an Impressionist painting come to life.

At Giverny, you can visit Monet’s home and flower-filled garden. (Be warned: the gardens are pretty, but they’re bursting with tourists, so time your visit carefully.) Auvers-sur-Oise is a quieter village, with Van Gogh’s grave, recognizable settings of several of the artist’s paintings, and a multimedia museum on Impressionism. Both places are about an hour’s journey from Paris and accessible by public transportation.

Giverny

Claude Monet’s gardens at Giverny are like his paintings—brightly colored patches that are messy but balanced. Flowers were his brushstrokes, a bit untamed and slapdash, but part of a carefully composed design. Monet spent his last (and most creative) years cultivating his garden and his art at Giverny (zhee-vayr-nee), the spiritual home of Impressionism (1883-1926). Visiting the Marmottan and/or the Orangerie museums in Paris before your visit here, or at least reading the chapters on those museums, heightens your appreciation of these gardens.

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In 1883, middle-aged Claude Monet, his wife Alice, and their eight children from two families settled into this farmhouse, 50 miles northwest of Paris (for more on Monet’s family, see sidebar on here). Monet, already a famous artist and happiest at home, would spend 40 years in Giverny, traveling less with each passing year. He built a pastoral paradise complete with a Japanese garden and a pond full of floating lilies.

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In 1912, Monet—the greatest visionary, literally, of his generation—began to go blind with cataracts. To compensate, he used larger canvases and painted fewer details. The true subject of these later works is not really the famous water lilies but the changing reflections on the pond’s surface—of the blue sky, white clouds, and green trees that line the shore.

Plan your trip to Giverny carefully to avoid busy times, when this lovely place can get overwhelmed (see “Crowd-Beating Tips,” later).

GETTING TO GIVERNY

Minivan and big bus tours take groups to Giverny. The trip is also doable in a half-day by car or by train (with a connection by bus, tram, taxi, bike, or hike). This website gives a clear explanation of your options: Giverny.org/transpor.

By Tour: Minivan tours will pick you up at your hotel and whisk you painlessly there and back. Paris Webservices tours are good, with informative drivers and ample time to savor the experience (figure $100-130/person for groups of 4 or more; see here). Big bus tour companies do a Giverny day trip from Paris for around €80 (5 hours, includes entry, get details at your hotel or www.pariscityvision.com).

By Car: From Paris’ périphérique ring road, follow A-13 toward Rouen, exit at Sortie 14 to Vernon, and follow Centre Ville signs, then signs to Giverny. You can park right at Monet’s house or at one of several nearby lots. Romantics can take the scenic route from the exit before Vernon and follow tiny D-201 through Bennecourt, then over the river and through the woods.

By Train: This option is less expensive than a tour and puts you in charge of your own time (allow about 6 hours round-trip). Take the Rouen-bound train from Paris Gare St. Lazare Station to Vernon, about four miles from Giverny (normally leaves from tracks 20-25, 1 hour, about €26 round-trip). Trains run almost every hour—there’s usually one leaving Gare St. Lazare at about 13:00, which puts you at Giverny at about 14:30, when the gardens are less busy. Before boarding, get return times from Vernon to Paris (from info desk at the station, or check the SNCF website).

Getting from Vernon’s Train Station to Giverny: From the Vernon station to Monet’s garden, you have multiple options. The Vernon-Giverny bus generally departs hourly for the 20-minute run to Giverny (9:15-17:15, €10 round-trip, pay driver). A bus-and-train timetable is available at the bus stops, on the bus, and online (www.giverny.org/transpor)—note return times. To find the bus stop, walk through the station and keep straight, passing to the right of the bus shelter in front of the station, then find the small stop across from the L’Arrivée de Giverny café. Don’t dally in the station—the bus may leave soon after your train arrives.

The bus drops you off near a pedestrian underpass by the gardens (see map; TI and good WCs on north side of underpass). Return buses run from the same stop, generally hourly in the morning and afternoon (at about :25 after the hour, no bus at 14:25, last departure 19:25 weekdays, 18:30 weekends—confirm times locally).

The Petit Train—actually a tram—makes the trip from the Vernon station to Giverny in about 20 minutes (€10 round-trip, trams depart about hourly from the station in the morning and from Giverny in the afternoon—confirm times in advance, https://petittrain-vernon.fr).

Taxis usually wait in front of the station in Vernon (allow €20 one-way for up to 4 people; to order a taxi call +33 6 37 10 90 03, +33 6 08 63 04 85, +33 6 77 49 32 90, or +33 6 50 12 21 22).

Another option is to rent a bike and take a 35-minute ride along a pastoral and well-signed bike path (piste cyclable) that runs from Vernon along an abandoned railroad right-of-way. Rental Station, across from the station, has good bikes (smart to book ahead in summer, daily 9:00-19:00, pedal bikes €10, e-bikes €20, +33 7 66 44 82 22, https://location-velo-vernon.fr). L’Arrivée de Giverny café also rents bikes (closed Mon, +33 2 32 21 16 01).

Hikers can go on foot to Giverny, following the bike path (4 level miles, about 1.5 hours one-way), and take a bus or taxi back.

Extension to Rouen: Consider combining Giverny with an excursion to nearby Rouen—together they make an efficient and memorable full-day trip from Paris. Note that Rouen’s museums are closed on Tuesdays. You’ll probably want to see Giverny first and end your day in Rouen, although starting in Rouen and ending in Giverny works if you get an early start (and avoids the busiest times at Giverny). From Vernon (the halfway point between Rouen and Paris), it’s about 40 minutes by train to Rouen; the train trip from Rouen back to Paris takes 80 minutes.

Here’s how starting in Giverny could work: Plan to arrive at Monet’s garden when it opens (at 9:30) so you can be back to the Vernon train station by 13:00 (easy, even with crowds). You’ll land in Rouen by 14:00 and have ample time to see the cathedral and surrounding medieval quarter. In Rouen, the TI is a 15-minute walk from the station and offers an audioguide walking tour (or, better yet, get your hands on the Rouen section from the Normandy chapter of my Rick Steves France guidebook). If you leave Rouen around 18:00, you’ll pull into Paris about 19:20, having spent a wonderful day sampling rural and urban Normandy. You could also linger longer in Rouen and have dinner before retuning to Paris.

Orientation to Giverny

Giverny is a tiny village about four miles from the town of Vernon. All of Giverny’s sights and shops string along a traffic-free section of Rue Claude Monet, which runs in front of Monet’s house. The TI is located by the WCs in the parking lot near the road to Vernon (see map, daily April-Sept, closed off-season, 80 Rue Claude Monet, +33 2 32 64 45 01).

Sights in Giverny

Monet’s Garden and House

All kinds of people flock to Giverny. Gardeners admire the earth-moving landscaping and layout, botanists find interesting new plants, art lovers can see paintings they’ve long admired come to life, and romantics can glue themselves to a bench surrounded by water lily views. Fans enjoy wandering through the house where Monet spent half his life and seeing the rowboat he puttered around in, as well as the henhouse where his family got the eggs for their morning omelets.

There are two gardens, split by a busy road, plus the house, which displays Monet’s prized collection of Japanese prints. The gardens are always flowering with something; they’re at their most vibrant April through July, though fall is surprisingly colorful as well.

Cost and Hours: €11, not covered by Paris Museum Pass, €21 combo-ticket with nearby Museum of Impressionisms, €25 with Paris’ Marmottan Museum; daily April-Oct 9:30-18:00, closed Nov-late March; +33 2 32 51 90 31, http://fondation-monet.com.

Crowd-Beating Tips: Though lines can be long and tour groups may trample the flowers (worse in the mornings, particularly on Sunday), true fans still find magic in the gardens. Minimize crowds by arriving in the afternoon (the later the better—16:00 is ideal) and staying until closing time. The busiest months are mid-April through June; fall is quieter.

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Advance ticket and combo-ticket holders skip the ticket-buying line and use the nifty entrance near where groups enter (see map), a huge advantage in high season. You can buy advance tickets online or at any FNAC store in Paris (www.fnactickets.com). Alternately, buy combo-tickets with the Marmottan Museum in Paris, or Giverny’s Museum of Impressionisms.

Visiting the House and Gardens: There are two parts to the gardens: the Walled Garden (below the house) and the Water Garden (across the road). Most visitors use the main entry and start in the Walled Garden (Clos Normand). Those able to use the group entrance should start with the Water Garden and end with the Walled Garden and house. The house gets easily overrun and claustrophobic, as hallways are tight (expect to wait in line as you work your way through).

Walled Garden: Smell the pretty scene. Monet cleared this land of pine trees and laid out symmetrical beds, split down the middle by a “grand alley” covered with iron trellises of climbing roses. He did his own landscaping, installing flowerbeds of lilies, irises, and clematis. The arched arbors leading to the home’s entry form a natural tunnel that guides your eye down the path—an effect exploited in his Rose Trellis paintings (on display in Paris at the Marmottan Museum). In his carefree manner, Monet throws together hollyhocks, daisies, and poppies. The color scheme of each flowerbed contributes to the look of the whole garden.

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Water Garden: In the southwest corner of the Walled Garden (near the group entrance), you’ll find a pedestrian tunnel that leads under the road to a garden with Monet’s famous pond and lilies. Follow the meandering path to the Japanese bridge, under weeping willows, over the pond filled with water lilies, and past countless scenes that leave artists aching for an easel. Find a bench and stop for a while, then walk to the very end. Monet landscaped like he painted—he built an Impressionist pattern of blocks of color. After he planted the gardens, he painted them, from every angle, at every time of day, in all kinds of weather. Assisted by his favorite stepdaughter, Blanche (also a painter, who married Monet’s son Jean, from an earlier marriage), he worked on several canvases at once, moving with the sun from one to the next. In a series of canvases, you can watch the sunlight sweep over the gardens from early dawn to twilight.

House: End your visit with a wander through Monet’s charming, I-could-retire-here home, with period furnishings, Japanese prints, old photos, and rooms filled with copies of his and other artists’ paintings. The gift shop at the exit is the actual sky-lighted studio where Monet painted his masterpiece water-lily series (displayed at the Orangerie Museum in Paris). Many visitors spend more time in this tempting gift shop than in the gardens themselves.

NEARBY SIGHTS

Village of Giverny

The village is a sight in itself, with flowery lanes home to a few souvenir shops, art galleries, and cozy cafés. Cars are not allowed to enter the center of the village.

Museum of Impressionisms (Musée des Impressionnismes)

This bright, modern museum, dedicated to the history of Impressionism and its legacy, houses temporary exhibits of Impressionist art. Check its website for current shows or just drop in. Meander through its colorful, picnic-friendly gardens for more color.

Cost and Hours: €10, €21 combo-ticket with Monet’s Garden and House, free first Sun of month; daily 10:00-18:00, Nov-Dec Thu-Sun only, closed Jan-March, can have weeks-long closures between exhibitions—check website; audioguide-€4; garden restaurant; to reach the museum, turn left after leaving Monet’s place and walk 200 yards; +33 2 32 51 94 00, www.mdig.fr.

Claude Monet’s Grave

Monet’s grave is a 15-minute walk from his door. Turn left out of his house and walk down Rue Claude Monet, pass the Museum of Impressionisms and the Hôtel Baudy, and find it in the backyard of the white church Monet attended (Eglise Sainte-Radegonde). Look for flowers, with a cross above. The inscription says: Here lies our beloved Claude Monet, born 14 November 1840, died 5 December 1926; missed by all.

Vernon Town

If you have extra time at Vernon’s train station, take a five-minute walk into town and sample the peaceful village. From the station, pass Café de l’Arrivée on your left, follow the street as it curves left, and keep straight, following the Centre-Ville signs. You’ll find a smattering of half-timbered Norman homes near Hôtel de Ville (remember, you’re in Normandy), several good cafés and shops, and the town’s towering Gothic church.

Sleeping and Eating in Giverny

Sleeping: $$ Hôtel la Musardière***, just two blocks from Monet’s home, has 10 comfortable rooms, a pleasant garden, and a fine $$ restaurant serving beautifully presented dishes in a modern dining room—or better, on the sun-dappled terrace (hotel and restaurant open Thu-Mon April-Oct, closed Nov-March; 123 Rue Claude Monet, +33 2 32 21 03 18, www.lamusardiere.fr, hotelmusardieregiverny@wanadoo.fr).

$$ Au Bon Maréchal is a central and comfy B&B a few minutes from Monet’s home. Marie-Claire rents four traditional country-French rooms with a large, private garden (cash only, 1 Rue du Colombier, +33 2 32 51 39 70, www.giverny.fr, boscher.marie-claire@orange.fr).

$ Le Clos Fleuri is a family-friendly B&B with two spacious and very comfortable rooms, each with a king-size bed and a private terrace facing the grassy garden. The rooms also share handy cooking facilities. It’s a 15-minute walk from Monet’s place and is run by charming, English-speaking Danielle (with Australian heritage), who serves up a good included breakfast (cash only, 5 Rue de la Dîme, +33 2 32 21 36 51, www.giverny-leclosfleuri.fr, leclosfleuri27@gmail.com).

Eating: You’ll find various snack places just outside the main entrance to Monet’s home. A good budget lunch option is a block away at $ La Capucine’s self-serve restaurant. Eat tasty, cheap soups, salads, and quiches at a table in the warm interior or the welcoming garden (Wed-Sun 12:00-18:00, closed Mon-Tue). A few blocks farther along, Le Coin du Pain’tre du Giverny Boulangerie-Café attracts a local crowd to its charming setting, serving simple but tasty baked goods and a limited menu (daily 8:00-19:00, 73 Rue Claude Monet). Locals say the best lunch in town is at the Museum of Impressionisms (see above).

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Rose-colored $$ Hôtel Baudy, once a hangout for American Impressionists, offers an appropriately pretty setting for lunch or dinner. The décor looks as though it has not changed since painters hung their brushes here (outdoor tables in front, good-value menus, popular with tour groups at lunch, daily, 5-minute walk past Museum of Impressionisms at 81 Rue Claude Monet, +33 2 32 21 10 03). Don’t miss a stroll through the artsy gardens behind the restaurant.

For finer dining, consider the restaurant at Hôtel la Musardière, listed earlier.

Auvers-sur-Oise

This small town draws Van Gogh pilgrims and those in search of a green escape from the city. Auvers-sur-Oise (oh-vehr soor wahz) is a peaceful place on a bend of the lazy Oise River, northwest of Paris. A manageable day trip by car, it takes some planning by train. Here you’ll get an intimate glimpse into life (and death) during the Impressionist era. Walkers enjoy stretching their legs between the low-key sights in this countryside setting.

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Auvers was a magnet for artists in the late 1800s. Charles-François Daubigny, Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, Camille Pissarro, and Paul Cézanne all adored this rural retreat (they were also unknowns then). But Auvers is best known as the village where Vincent van Gogh committed suicide. He moved here from southern France to be near his brother Theo (who lived in Paris). Vincent had talked his way out of the asylum in St-Rémy-de-Provence with assurances that he would be under good care from Auvers resident Paul Gachet, an understanding doctor and avid painter. The 2017 movie Loving Vincent, about Van Gogh’s final days and animated in the artist’s distinctive style, is worth viewing before a trip here.

Today, this modest little town opens its doors to visitors with a handful of sights and walking trails leading to recognizable scenes painted by Van Gogh and others (some with reproductions of the paintings posted in situ).

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PLANNING YOUR TIME

Most of the town’s simple sights are closed Mondays (some are also closed Tue, others open only on weekends), and most shut down entirely from November to Easter. Auvers makes a convenient first or last overnight stop for drivers using Charles de Gaulle airport, as it avoids traffic hassles (Auvers is about 20 miles from the airport). Allow a good half-day to appreciate the package of sights offered in little Auvers-sur-Oise.

GETTING TO AUVERS-SUR-OISE

The TI’s website offers a clear overview of your transportation options in English (www.tourisme-auverssuroise.fr).

By Train: Main-line trains direct to Auvers-sur-Oise run on weekends and holidays from Gare du Nord (one round-trip per day April-mid-Oct, 45 minutes, departs at about 9:35, returns at about 18:15). This is your surest bet for a stress-free trip, but it leaves you there all day. Consider arriving later by RER train (see below) and taking the direct train back. The station in Auvers-sur-Oise is unmanned on weekends, so use the ticket machines or buy round-trip tickets in Paris, and confirm the return schedule in advance.

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RER trains to Auvers-sur-Oise are covered by the Navigo Découverte pass and the five-zone Navigo Easy card. Frequent RER trains get you there daily but take 75-90 minutes each way and require a transfer. Take RER-C to Pontoise (2/hour, 1 hour to Pontoise, catch in Paris at St. Michel, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, or Pont de l’Alma stops). Pontoise is the end of the line, where it’s easy to transfer to Auvers. Ask at any RER-C station for the best connection or check www.ratp.fr [URL inactive] for RER lines. Service from Pontoise back to Paris is frequent, with trains to Gare du Nord, Gare St. Lazare, and points along the RER/Train-C route.

To get from Pontoise to Auvers, you have three options. Take train H (direction: Creil, hourly, 15 minutes; check return times posted on signs). Bus #9507 stops right outside the Pontoise train station, and in Auvers stops below the TI and the château (hourly, less frequent on Sun, 25 minutes; look for the posted schedule—you’re at Place Général de Gaulle in Pontoise, and you want the Mairie stop in Auvers). Or you can go by taxi (around €15, 10 minutes; for a bit more money, the same taxi can pick you up in Auvers for the return; see “Helpful Hints,” later).

By Car, Taxi, or Tour: Auvers is about 45 minutes northwest of Paris. Take the A-15 autoroute to A-115, follow Beauvais and exit at Auvers-sur-Oise. Allow €100 by taxi one-way. Some tour companies combine Auvers-sur-Oise with a visit to Giverny.

Orientation to Auvers-sur-Oise

Tourist Information: The TI is well signed in the small Parc Van Gogh (from the train station, it’s about a block to the left toward town). The TI has good information on all sights, as well as bus and train schedules (generally open Tue-Sun 9:30-18:00, shorter hours Nov-March, closed Mon year-round, +33 1 30 36 71 81, www.tourisme-auverssuroise.fr). Pick up the helpful town map that shows all the Van Gogh sights. You can also take advantage of the good WCs behind the TI.

Helpful Hints: There’s a handy supermarket and bakery on your way into town from the station. For a taxi in Auvers, call +33 6 05 07 94 20 or +33 1 34 48 04 16, or, in Pontoise, +33 1 30 30 45 45.

Sights in Auvers-sur-Oise

The best way to spend a few hours in Auvers is to wander the village lanes and nearby paths connecting the sights in the order described below. Doing the entire loop takes about 45 minutes with no stops. Orange signs identify sight locations.

Start by climbing the path behind the TI, then veer right, joining the small road that leads to the...

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Church at Auvers (Notre-Dame d’Auvers)

This small church at the edge of town was built in the 1100s, is beautifully lit inside (open daily 9:30-19:00), and was made famous by Van Gogh’s paintings (especially the exterior view of the apse).

In a letter to his sister Wilhelmina, Vincent wrote: “I have a larger picture of the village church—an effect in which the building appears to be violet-hued against a sky of simple deep blue color, pure cobalt; the stained-glass windows appear as ultramarine blotches, the roof is violet and partly orange. In the foreground some green plants in bloom, and sand with the pink flow of sunshine in it.”

From here, follow signs for Tombes de Théo et Vincent up the small street behind the church and walk about 400 yards to the simple cemetery.

Vincent’s Grave

Vincent and his caring brother are buried side by side against the cemetery’s upper wall about halfway down (look for the ivy). No one can be sure why Vincent ended his life at 37, but standing at his grave, you can feel the weight of the tragedy and only imagine the paintings he could have created. You can thank Japanese travelers if you spot gray dust on the ivy that covers Vincent’s and Theo’s graves: Vincent is wildly popular among the Japanese, some of whom ask to have their ashes spread over his grave. Vincent lies in a coffin made by the same carpenter who built his picture frames.

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Leave the cemetery and follow the unmarked dirt path that bisects a broad wheat field to reach...

Wheatfield with Crows

Find the copy of Vincent’s famous painting and stop there. Vincent shot himself in this field and died two days later in his bedroom at the Auberge Ravoux (described later). His brother was at his side. Wheatfield with Crows, painted in this very field in 1890, was one of his last paintings.

Continue straight on to the woods on the far side of the field and drop down to a street. Turn left when you reach the “T,” and pass...

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La Maison-Atelier de Daubigny

This skippable but well-preserved home/studio once belonged to Charles-François Daubigny, who created the artist colony that Auvers became in the 1880s.

Cost and Hours: €6, open only Sat-Sun 10:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, closed Nov-March, www.atelier-daubigny.com.

Past the Maison-Atelier de Daubigny, veer right at signs to the château. You’ll soon pass...

Musée de l’Absinthe

This small, one-of-a-kind tribute features the highly alcoholic, herb-based beverage popular among artists and writers (including Van Gogh) in the late 1800s. Considered dangerously addictive, absinthe was banned in 1915. Another anise-flavored drink—pastis—took its place; it tasted similar but was less toxic. Then, in 2011, absinthe was again declared legal in France. The museum has only minimal English information, but the staff can explain the displays.

Cost and Hours: €6, open only Sat-Sun 13:30-18:00, closed Nov-March, last entry one hour before closing, bottled absinthe for sale, +33 1 30 36 83 26, www.musee-absinthe.com.

From here it’s a straight, 300-yard shot to...

Château d’Auvers

This château has been transformed into a multimedia event focusing on Vincent, using state-of-the-art technology to immerse visitors into the lively Impressionist era. The “show” changes every few years but always features an immersive experience with impressive displays and sounds designed to transport you to another time. The château has a fine café with outdoor seating in summer.

Cost and Hours: €12 includes audioguide, family rates, not covered by Paris Museum Pass; Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon and mid-Dec-mid-Jan, +33 1 34 48 48 48, www.chateau-auvers.fr.

A healthy walk beyond the château, Van Gogh fans can visit the restored home of Dr. Gachet (well signed), but I’d skip it and be satisfied with the description below.

Maison du Docteur Gachet

It was at Camille Pissarro’s suggestion that Dr. Gachet agreed to see Van Gogh, who made an immediate connection with the doctor (“I have found a friend in Dr. Gachet...and something of a new brother, since we are so similar both mentally and physically”). In addition to being Vincent’s personal physician in Auvers, Gachet was an avid painter and adored entertaining famous artists such as Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, and Pissarro. He inherited all of Van Gogh’s works from his time in Auvers (those you see at the Orsay Museum were donated by Gachet’s family). Dr. Gachet is buried at Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris.

The small home is furnished as it was when Vincent lived in Auvers, with bits of memorabilia. The “wild” garden has medicinal plants that the homeopath Gachet cultivated and used to treat Van Gogh.

Cost and Hours: Free, Wed-Sun 10:30-18:30, closed Mon-Tue and Nov-March, 78 Rue du Dr. Gachet.

Follow the main road leading down from the château to return to the TI and find...

Auberge Ravoux

Vincent lived and died in an attic room of this rustic inn (also called “Maison de Van Gogh”). His modest room has been re-created to look exactly as it did during his short time here, though his few furnishings were burned by church officials shortly after his death (suicide was considered a sin and not tolerated). Your visit starts with a short guided tour of Van Gogh’s room (English tours usually run at :15 and :45 after the hour), then continues with a 12-minute audiovisual presentation retracing the artist’s time in Auvers. Displays in the courtyard explain more about Vincent’s tragic life. (Allow 30 minutes total for this sight.)

Cost and Hours: €7, Wed-Sun 10:30-18:30, closed Mon-Tue and Nov-early March, www.maisondevangogh.fr.

Food connoisseurs can enjoy a tasty lunch in the Auberge Ravoux’s perfectly preserved restaurant. Nearby, you could visit...

Musée Daubigny

This skippable museum houses a small collection of works by Charles-François Daubigny and other artists who came to work with him. Daubigny was a big supporter of the Impressionist movement.

Cost and Hours: €5, Tue-Fri 14:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 10:30-12:30 & 14:00-17:30, closed Mon, Rue de la Sansonne, www.museedaubigny.com.

Eating in Auvers

The most atmospheric place to eat in Auvers is $$ Auberge Ravoux, unchanged (except for its prices) since 1876, when painters would meet here over a good meal. It’s wise to make a reservation for lunch on weekends (closed Mon-Tue, on Place de la Mairie, +33 1 30 36 60 60, www.maisondevangogh.fr).

Auvers also has grocery stores, cafés, crêperies, restaurants, and bakeries with sandwiches, all within blocks of the TI.