Tower Bridge, London
© visitlondonimages / britainonview
Early morning sunlight over the River Thames with the London Eye, Houses of Parliament and Hungerford Bridge
© visitlondonimages / britainonview
London is not only the commercial, political and artistic capital of the United Kingdom, but also one of the great financial centres and tourist destinations of the world. The only problem for the visitor is knowing how best to allocate time and which areas will suit his or her particular tastes.
Highlights
1 Gaze dizzily down from St Paul’s Whispering Gallery (p166)
2 Discover the 21C Docklands on the elevated DLR line (p161)
3 Take a blast on the river with a white-knuckle RIB ride (p161)
4 Come face to face with a dinosaur at the Natural History Museum (p173)
5 Feast your eyes and stomach at Borough Market (p188)
The main visitor centre is Westminster, incorporating the West End, famous for its royal palaces and Houses of Parliament, art galleries, theatres, shopping streets, nightlife and entertainment. West of here lie Kensington and Knightsbridge with three world-class museums, a royal palace and park, and Britain’s most famous store, Harrods. On the western edges of London are two unmissable warm weather excursions: Kew Botanic Gardens and Hampton Court Palace.
To the east of Westminster lies The City of London (‘The City’ – with a capital C), famous for trade and commerce, but also home to the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral, a host of exquisite Wren-designed churches, as well as cosy traditional wine bars and pubs. Adjacent are the fascinating historic enclaves of Southwark and Spitalfields, haunts of Dickens, Jack the Ripper and the Young British Artists. The skyscrapers of London’s Docklands mark London’s modern financial area, a fascinating contrast to neighbouring Greenwich, a favourite of Henry VIII, and an essential day out for anyone with an interest in maritime history.
London goes back over 2000 years and despite suffering from fires, bombing and the vagaries of contemporary town planning, there are still visible remains of every period of its long colourful past, from Londinium to the Swinging Sixties.
London first began to take shape under the Romans, who made it the hub of their road system. They enclosed it with walls and built the first London Bridge. Remains of the Roman walls, together with medieval additions, are still visible on the street called London Wall and near the Tower of London.
It was Edward the Confessor (1042–66) who established the rival centre at Westminster, when he built a royal palace and founded an abbey, its minster in the west, as opposed to St Paul’s Cathedral, its minster in the east.
In fact London did not become the official capital of England until the mid-12C, taking over from Winchester. The City and its busy port gained considerable freedom and independence from the crown, which was often dependent on City merchants for raising money for military expeditions. The great houses of the nobility lined the Strand along the north bank of the Thames, while merchants built elegant mansions in the less crowded West End, or nearby villages like Islington, Holborn and Chelsea.
Overcrowding was somewhat reduced by the ravages of the Great Plague (1665), in which 75,000 out of 460,000 people died, and of the Great Fire (1666), which destroyed 80 percent of the buildings. Within six days of the end of the fire, Christopher Wren, then 33 years old, submitted a plan to rebuild the city with broad straight streets. It was rejected, though Wren was commissioned to build the new St Paul’s Cathedral and the majority of the city’s churches.
As the population continued to expand, poor-quality housing proliferated, accompanied by limited investment in sanitation. The appalling conditions of the 18C are strikingly illustrated in the work of William Hogarth. Charles Dickens continued to document the poverty and dreadful living conditions well into the 19C. Eventually in 1855 the government established the Metropolitan Board of Works, a central body with special responsibility for mains sewerage, and the tide of filth began to turn.
Destruction was to again play a role in the modernisation of the city when the piles of rubble left by German bombers during The Blitz of 1940–41 provided opportunities for modern and imaginative redevelopment such as the arts centres at the South Bank and the Barbican.
Grenadier Guards in front of Buckingham Palace
© Peter Phipp / World Pictures / Photoshot
While London is loved the world over for its history, it is a city at the forefront of national change: in its fashions, its skyline, even its ethnicity. No matter how many times you visit you’ll always see something new.
= Population: 7,556,900.
T Michelin Map: Michelin Atlas pp19–21 or map 504 T 29.
w Don’t Miss: The London Eye; British Museum; National Gallery; Covent Garden; Westminster Abbey; St Paul’s Cathedral; Natural History Museum; Science Museum; Tower of London; Kew Gardens; Hampton Court Palace; Greenwich (by river boat); London Zoo.
The City remains a financial powerhouse, thronged with pin-striped suits by day but deserted by night and on weekends. Its itinerant citizens almost all commute to the suburbs or much farther afield. The rest of London, and particularly the West End, is lively at all hours – by day with shoppers and office workers and by night with people going to the theatres, pubs, restaurants and nightclubs. London has grown organically over the centuries absorbing other towns and villages as it sprawls ever outwards. Most Londoners live in the old belt of “villages” (such as Hampstead, Chiswick, Kensington or Chelsea), which have retained their own character.
The cosmopolitan atmosphere of London was greatly reinforced in the latter half of the 20C by easier foreign travel, higher standards of living, immigration from the former Empire and Britain’s membership of the European Union; as reflected in the large number of foreign restaurants and food stores.
Modern multicultural London has many of its own traditions from Hindu Diwali to the Notting Hill Carnival (last weekend of Aug), London’s biggest festival and the second-largest street festival after Rio. Between one and two million visitors turn this area of London into a giant free party each year.
The 1980s and 1990s saw the large-scale regeneration of 8sq mi/21sq km of derelict warehouses and dock basins east of The City in the Docklands, which were converted into offices of epic proportions; at 774ft/236m, Canary Wharf Tower is the tallest building in the UK. Around the Docklands modern flats, low-rise housing and sports facilities have been laid out. More recently, the Swiss Re Building and London Bridge’s Shard have joined the skyline.
A massive building programme saw the creation of the 2012 Olympic Park. The Olympic Park in the Lea Valley, just east of the Docklands, was one of the largest construction and engineering projects in Europe. It features the Aquatics Centre, Hockey Stadium, Multi-sport arenas, 80,000-seat Olympic Stadium and Velopark, as well as the Olympic Village and Media Centre. Following the hugely successful games, the Park is now used regularly for events such as music concerts and festivals.
Traditional London
Tradition still plays a vital role in London life. The following are the most colourful and famous, but dozens more take place throughout the year.
The ceremonial Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace (summer daily 11.30am, in summer; otherwise every other day) and Horse Guards (Mon–Sat 11am, Sun 10am) is an evergreen favourite with British and oversees visitors and continues to draw the crowds. Get there early!
There is more pageantry and military precision when the Queen attends Trooping the Colour on Horse Guards Parade (2nd or 3rd Sat in Jun) and the State Opening of Parliament (Nov).
In the Lord Mayor’s Show (2nd Sat in Nov) the newly elected Lord Mayor of London proceeds through The City in the Golden State Coach before taking his oath at the Royal Courts of Justice in the Strand.
There are central tourist information offices open daily in the underground stations at Piccadilly Circus and Liverpool Street and in the mainline stations at Victoria, Euston and King’s Cross St Pancras. There is a kiosk at Kingsway Holborn (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm). These are all walk-in only centres; for telephone enquiries call the London Information Line (t0870 156 6366 (infoline); www.visitlondon.com). For what is happening specifically in The City, go to the City of London Information Centre (St Paul’s Churchyard; www.cityoflondon.gov.uk). Out of the centre, there are offices at Twickenham (t08456 122 660; www.visitrichmond.co.uk), Greenwich (t0870 608 2000; www.greenwich.gov.uk) and other London suburbs. For more information visit www.visitlondon.com.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
London’s airports are each connected to the city by public transport. Express trains to central London run from Gatwick, Heathrow, Stansted and Luton (the latter via a shuttle bus). London City Airport is the most central but is business oriented, only servicing a limited number of European cities. The most enjoyable way of travelling to France or Belgium is by the Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) high-speed train from St Pancras via the Eurotunnel.
Transport for London (t0343 222 1234; www.tfl.gov.uk) runs the tube (Underground), buses, Docklands Light Railway and Thames riverboats, while regional train companies service the majority of the suburbs. TfL’s online journey planner is very useful.
Tickets are available by the journey, day, multiple days or longer. The Visitor Oyster card (http://visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk) is the cheapest and easiest way to travel, valid on all public transport (except taxis). This credit card-style ticket can be used repeatedly and loaded as you wish. They can be bought online or from any station. Simply top-up credit and the card automatically calculates the cheapest overall ticket for journeys made that day.
Trains run out of London from: Euston and King’s Cross/St Pancras (northern destinations and Eurostar); Paddington and Marylebone (western destinations); Waterloo, Victoria and London Bridge (the south); and Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street (the east).
Taxis are expensive. Always catch a licensed taxi cab.
SIGHTSEEING
Most sightseeing and tourist activities are confined to Westminster, the West End and Kensington. Although the tube will not allow you to see the layout and character of London, it is the fastest way of getting around town. However, try to avoid using the Underground in central London at rush hours. If you are touring Westminster you are often better off walking, or using buses. Certain bus routes, such as the no. 11, give a fantastic tour of the city for little money. Remember, in Westminster buses may require you to buy a ticket before you board. Bus drivers only accept coins; use an Oyster card instead (Tsee above).
Tours on open-topped buses start from Victoria, Green Park, Piccadilly, Coventry Street, Trafalgar Square, Haymarket, Lower Regent Street, Marble Arch, Baker Street, Tower Hill. Some tours are non-stop; some allow passengers to hop on or off and continue on a later bus. Pick up details of guided walking tours from information centres, or see press listings, particularly the excellent, free magazine Time Out (www.timeout.com/london).
Thames cruises depart from Westminster Pier, London Eye Tower Pier and Greenwich Pier. The major operator is City Crusises (www.citycruises.com). Public river transport (www.tfl.gov.uk) is expensive and offers limited options.
The London Waterbus Company operates a regular service along the Regent’s Canal (t020 7482 2660; www.londonwaterbus.com). Other operators are Jason’s Trip (www.jasons.co.uk) and Jenny Wren (t020 7485 4433; www.walkersquay.com).
Probably the best walking tours are the Original London Walks (t020 7624 3978; www.walks.com).
SIGHTS
Westminster Abbeyaaa
ÊWestminster. Abbey: General opening times: year-round Mon–Fri 9.30am–4.30pm, Wed until 7pm (winter 6pm), Sat until 2.30pm; last entry 1hr before closing. Sun for services only. In winter, hours may be reduced, see website for details. £18 (incl. entry to all areas; cloister and garden free). Guided tours £3. j. Cloister: Open daily 8am–6pm. Chapter House, Pyx Chamber and Abbey Museum: Open daily 10.30am–4pm. Closed 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec and except services. College Garden: Open Tue–Thu, 10am–6pm (4pm Oct–Mar). Brass band concerts in garden (free) mid-Jul–Aug 12.30pm–2pm). t020 7222 5152. www.westminster-abbey.org.
The abbey, in which William the Conqueror was crowned as William I on Christmas Day 1066, and in which Prince William married Kate Middleton on 29 April 2011, was built by Edward the Confessor in the Norman style. It was only after the rebuilding by the Plantagenet Henry III in 1220 that it acquired its present Gothic appearance. Henry III began with the Lady Chapel, to provide a noble shrine for the Confessor, who had been canonised in 1163. Gradually the existing building was demolished as new replaced the old. When Henry VII constructed his chapel at the east end (1503–19) he produced the jewel of the age. The west towers by Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor (1722–45) and repairs by George Gilbert Scott kept to the Gothic spirit. Inside, the vaulting is glorious, the carving on screens and arches delicate, often beautiful, sometimes humorous; the ancient tombs in Henry VII’s, St Edward’s and the ambulatory chapels are dignified. The transepts and aisles abound with sculpted monuments, particularly in the famous Poets’ Cornera (south transept), where there are monuments to many great poets though few are actually buried here; the tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer was the first in this corner, others interred here include Alfred Lord Tennyson and Robert Browning.
The sanctuary beyond the choir is where the coronation ceremony is performed. To the right hangs a 16C tapestry behind a large 15C altarpiece of rare beauty. Beyond is an ancient 13C sedilia painted with full-length royal figures (Henry III, Edward I).
The Henry VII Chapelaaa with its superb fan-vaulted roof is the most glorious of the abbey’s many treasures. The banners of the Knights Grand Cross of the Order of the Bath hang still and brilliant above the stalls with inventive 16C–18C misericords. The Chapel of Edward the Confessoraa is rich in history, with the Confessor’s shrine ringed with the tombs of five kings and three queens. In the centre against a carved stone screen (1441) stands the Coronation Chair, which until recently contained the Stone of Scone beneath the seat (Tsee EDINBURGH and PERTH).
The Chapter Houseaa (1248–53) is an octagonal vaulted chamber (60ft/18m in diameter) with Purbeck marble columns. Its walls are partially decorated with medieval paintings.
Westminster Abbey
©Galen Goyer/iStockphoto.com
Palace of Westminster (Houses of Parliament)aaa
ÊWestminster. Open by guided tour (75min) starting from the Victoria Tower. Sat throughout year; Mon–Fri Aug–Sept (summer recess). £16.50. Book tickets on t0844 847 1672 (t0044 161 425 8777 from outside the UK) or via www.ticketmaster.co.uk. Advance booking strongly advised, available from March onwards. When Parliament is in session the general public are allowed into the Visitors’ Gallery free of charge to watch the proceedings in the House of Commons. Be prepared to queue for popular sessions, such as Prime Minister’s Question Time, If you do not have advance tickets. www.parliament.uk/visiting.
The palace built by Edward the Confessor was enlarged and embellished by the medieval English kings but most of the surviving buildings, by then occupied by Parliament, were destroyed in a disastrous fire in 1834. The oldest part is Westminster Hallaa, which William Rufus added to his father’s palace between 1097 and 1099. This scene of royal banquets and jousts in the Middle Ages was altered and re-roofed by command of Richard II between 1394 and 1399. For this the upper parts were rebuilt and what is perhaps the finest timber roof of all time was built, a superb hammerbeamaaa designed by the king’s master carpenter, Hugh Herland. After the 1834 fire, which, fortunately, did not damage Westminster Hall, Charles Barry and Augustus Pugin won a competition for a new design for the palace, which became known as the Houses of Parliament. Together they created a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture. It was completed in 1860, with over 1,000 rooms, 100 staircases and 2mi/3km of corridors over 8 acres/3ha.
The Clock Tower (316ft/96m), the most famous feature of this distinctive building, was completed by 1859. The name Big Bena applied originally to the great bell, probably so-called after Sir Benjamin Hall, the Commissioner of Works and a man of considerable girth. The clock, which has an electrically wound mechanism, proved reliable for 117 years, until it succumbed to metal fatigue in 1976 when it required major repairs. Big Ben was first broadcast on New Year’s Eve 1923 and its chimes are the most famous in the world.
The House of Commonsa, rebuilt after being bombed in 1941, seats 437 of the 659 elected Members of Parliament; at the end of this simply decorated chamber is the canopied Speaker’s Chair. Red stripes on both sides of the green carpet mark the limit to which a Member may advance to address the House – the distance between the stripes is reputedly that of two drawn swords.
The House of Lordsaa is a masterpiece of design and workmanship. The throne and steps, beneath a Gothic canopy mounted on a wide screen, all in gold, occupies one end of the chamber. The ceiling is divided by ribs and gold patterning above the leather benches and the Woolsack, seat of the Lord Chancellor since the reign of Edward III, adopted as a symbol of the importance to England of the wool trade.
Whitehallaa
The wide street, which leads north from Parliament Square and Parliament Street, is lined by government offices. In the middle stands the Cenotaph, the austere war memorial designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. On the left is Downing Street (no public access) where a relatively modest Georgian house (no. 10) has been the official residence of the prime minister since 1732. Banqueting Houseaa (ÊWestminster; open (government functions permitting) year-round daily 10am–5pm; closed Good Fri, 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec, and bank hols; £5; j; t0844 482 7777; www.hrp.org.uk), the only part of the great Whitehall Palace to survive destruction by fire, was designed by Inigo Jones in 1619, but much altered in the early-19C. The hall is a double cube with a delicate balcony on gilded corbels; the ceiling is divided by richly decorated beams into compartments filled with magnificent paintings (1634–35) by Rubens. It was on a platform erected in front of this building that Charles I was executed in January 1649.
Opposite stands Horse Guardsa famous for the presence of the Household Cavalry sentries. The ceremonial mounting of the Queen’s Life Guardaaa occurs daily at 11am (10am Sun) in summer on Horse Guards Parade. The dismount ceremony is daily at 4pm in the Front Yard of Horse Guards. The cavalry rides along The Mall between Horse Guards and their barracks in Hyde Park. Behind is the parade ground, where Trooping the Colour takes place in June.
Houses of Parliament
©David Joyner/iStockphoto.com
St James’s Parkaa
ÊSt James’s Park.
The oldest and most beautiful royal park in London dates from 1532 when Henry VIII had St James’s Palace built. The park was landscaped in the 19C by John Nash, who was also responsible for the majestic Carlton House Terracea in the northeast corner. From the bridge over the water there is a fine view of Whitehall and Buckingham Palace.
Buckingham Palaceaa
ÊSt James’s Park, Victoria. Open late Jul–late Sept/early Oct daily, 9.30am–7pm (6pm Sept; last entry 2hrs 15min before closing) by timed ticket only. £19. Joint tickets: with garden highlights tour £27.75; with Royal Mews and Queen’s Gallery £33.25. j. t020 776 7300. www.royalcollection.org.uk.
Buckingham House was built by the Duke of Buckingham in 1703 and purchased in 1762 by George III. Under George IV it was converted into a palace (1825–37) by John Nash and Edward Blore; the east front containing the famous balcony was added in 1847. The tour includes Throne Room, Drawing Rooms, Dining Room and the Picture Gallery, hung with royal portraits and old masters (Charles I Van Dyck; portraits by Rembrandt and Frans Hals; seascapes by Van de Velde; A Lady at the Virginals, Vermeer; pastoral and religious scenes by Rubens…) and furnished with many pieces collected by George IV. When the sovereign is in residence, the Royal Standard flies over the palace.
The Changing of the Guardaa(usually May–end Jul/early–Aug daily 11.30am; except in very poor weather, rest of year alternate days at 11.30am. www.changing-the-guard.com) takes place in the palace forecourt. Arrive early for a good view. The Queen’s Galleryaa (separate entrance; open daily 9.30am–5.30pm by timed ticket (last entry 4.30pm), £9.50; j; t020 7766 7300; www.royalcollection.org.uk) exhibits portraits, paintings, drawings and furniture in the priceless Royal Collection.
Trafalgar Squareaa
ÊCharing Cross.
Begun in 1829, the square was completed in the 1840s, when Charles Barry levelled it and built the north terrace for the National Gallery (Tsee below). In 1842 Nelson’s Column was erected; the monument is 185ft/56m tall, with the pedestal, fluted granite column, bronze capital and a 17ft/5.2m statue of the great admiral who lost his life in victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.
Note the equestrian statue (south) of Charles I cast by Le Sueur in 1633. A plaque in the road next to it marks the spot from where all road distances to/from London are measured. Ironically the square is now pedestrianised. Note the four plinths at each corner of the square. While three of these are occupied by conventional historical statues, the fourth plinth is now the location for specially commissioned artworks.
The church of St Martin-in-the-Fieldsa (Trafalgar Square; open daily, see website for times; jf; t020 7766 1100; www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org) was built by James Gibbs in 1722–26, with a Corinthian portico and elegant spire. Today it is one of London’s most active churches, staging free lunchtime concerts (Mon–Tue and Fri at 1pm; £3.50 donation suggested); regular evening classical concerts; is home to a Brass Rubbing Centre (Mon–Wed 10am–6pm Thu–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 11.30am–5pm; from £4.50) and the award-winning Café in the Crypt restaurant.
National Galleryaaa
ÊLeicester Square, Charing Cross. Trafalgar Square. Open year-round daily 10am–6pm (9pm Fri). Closed 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec. Charge for temporary exhibitions. Guided tour (1hr) daily at 11.30am, 2.30pm, also 7pm Fri. jf. t020 7747 2885. www.nationalgallery.org.uk.
This landmark building was completed in 1838, its pedimented portico of Corinthian columns forming a climax to Trafal gar Square. The sixth and latest extension to the original building is the Sainsbury Wing (1991) by Robert Venturi. There are now more than 2,000 paintings in the collection; they represent the jewels in the public domain from early to High Renaissance Italian painting, early Netherlandish, German, Flemish, Dutch, French and Spanish pictures and masterpieces of the English 18C. The fuller representation of British art, particularly the more modern and 20C work of all schools is in Tate Britain.
The galleries are arranged chronologically starting with the period 1260–1510 in the Sainsbury Wing. Leonardo’s fragile preparatory “cartoon” of Virgin and Child with St Anne and John the Baptist is spectacular while his Virgin of the Rocks is similarly enigmatic and engaging. Uccello exploits strong lines and colour in his epic Battle of San Romano. Haunting realism and solemn stillness are the keywords in the works of Van Eyck and Van der Weyden, particularly in the former’s legendary Arnolfini Portrait. Botticelli is represented by Venus and Mars and Portrait of a Young Man while other Italian masters in this gallery are Raphael, Mantegna and Bellini, whose perfect use of oils is encapsulated in his Madonna and Child. Earlier German and Netherlandish work is also represented by Dürer, Cranach, Bosch and Memlinc. Paintings in the West Wing range from 1510 to 1600. The Ambassadors by Holbein is a wonderful large-scale historical portrait and its famous trompe l’œil skull is a great favourite with gallery visitors. Tintoretto, El Greco, Michelangelo and Veronese are also here.
In the North Wing are paintings by the French school, the Spanish school and from the Low Countries. Works by Claude and the great British landscape artist J M W Turner are shown together and should not be missed. Rembrandt and Rubens, Caravaggio, Velázquez and Van Dyck (his huge Equestrian Picture of Charles I is unmissable) also star here. Paintings from 1700 to 1900 are exhibited in the East Wing. The British school is exemplified by classics such as The Haywain by Constable, The Fighting Temeraire and Rain, Steam and Speed by J M W Turner. There are works by Canaletto, Goya, Tiepolo and Delacroix but many visitor’s favourites are the Impressionist collection starring Pissarro, Renoir, Monet, Manet, Degas and Cézanne. Van Gogh’s Chair and Sunflowers (once the world’s most expensive painting) stand out as crowd pleasers. Seurat’s Bathers at Asnière is another favourite. Another distinctive and popular artist is Henri Rousseau, whose Tiger in a Tropical Storm is a classic.
National Portrait Galleryaa
ÊLeicester Square, Charing Cross. St Martin’s Lane. Open year-round daily 10am–6pm (9pm Thu–Fri). Closed 24–26 Dec. Charge for temporary exhibitions only. jf. t020 7306 0055. www.npg.org.uk.
Here you will find portraits of almost every British person of significant public or historical interest from the Middle Ages to the present day, some painted, sculpted or photographed by the famous artists of the day. They range from the raffish picture of William Shakespeare (his only known contemporary portrait) to Sir Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher to modern icons such as Diana, Princess of Wales and David Beckham.
MAYFAIRa
The most luxurious district of London takes its name from a cattle and general fair held annually in May until it was closed in 1706 for unruly behaviour. It contains the most elegant hotels and most exclusive shops in all of London: Burlington Arcadea (1819), where the bow-fronted boutiques sell fashion, jewellery, leather goods; Bond Streeta famous for art auctioneers and dealers (Sotheby’s, Phillips, Agnew’s, Colnaghi), jewellery (Asprey, Cartier) and fashion (Fenwick, Yves St Laurent); Regent Street well known for elegant stores (Austin Reed, Aquascutum, Burberry, Jaeger and Libertyaa); Oxford Street lined with the more popular department stores (John Lewis, Debenhams, D H Evans, Selfridges and Marks & Spencer). Less well known is Shepherd Market, a charming maze of lanes, alleyways and paved courts linked by archways with a village atmosphere. Victorian and Edwardian pubs and houses, antique shops and small inserted shop fronts which serve in summer as pavement cafés line its streets.
You will find it hard to hear a nightingale singing in Berkeley Square (laid out in 1737) these days but it is still a very impressive plane-tree-lined ensemble – the trees are not much younger, many dating from the 1780s. Look for the late-18C houses on the west side with ironwork balconies, lamp holders at the steps and torch snuffers.
River Cruises
There’s no better way to spend a sunny day in London than an excursion to Greenwichaaa by river cruiser from Westminster, Charing Cross or Tower Pier. For a more adrenaline fuelled ride, take a RIB (rigid inflatable boat; www.londonribvoyages.com; www.thamesribexperience.com). On a cruise, make sure you pick one with a live (rather than a pre-recorded) commentary. You can return a different route, by the foot tunnel under the Thames to Island Gardens. There is a fine viewaa of Greenwich Palace from Island Gardens on the north bank, which can be reached via the foot tunnel. From here return west on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), enjoying the scenic ride on its elevated track (t0343 222 1234; www.tfl.gov.uk).
Piccadilly Circusa
This famous road junction (circus), once considered the hub of the British Empire, is still dominated by Eros, the Angel of Christian Charity, surmounting the fountain erected in memory of the philanthropist Lord Shaftesbury in 1892. It is famous for its garish neon advertising hoardings and as a meeting place. Appropriately, London’s gaudiest attraction, a branch of / Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Londona (ÊPiccadilly Circus; open year-round daily 10am–midnight, last entry 10.30pm; £17.95, child £13.95; jf; t020 3238 0022; www.ripleyslondon.com) is located here and wows the crowds with its inimitable mixture of amazing facts and over 700 jaw-dropping artefacts.
Off the Circus, Shaftesbury Avenue is the heart of London “theatreland”.
MARYLEBONE
Wallace Collectionaaa
ÊBond Street. Manchester Square. Closed for restoration in 2014; otherwise open daily 10am–5pm. Closed 24–26 Dec. jf. t020 7563 9500. www.wallacecollection.org.
This gathering of one of the world’s finer collections of 18C French art was the life’s work of the 4th Marquess of Hertford (1800–70). These sit along Italian masters, 17C Dutch painting, 18C French furniture (note the magnificent cabinets by A C Boulle), and Sèvres porcelain. Don’t miss the formidable display of European weapons and arms, nor the Great Gallery. This is traditionally hung with the larger 17C pictures and Old Master paintings including works by Rubens, Murillo, Velázquez, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Gainsborough and the most popular work in the museum, The Laughing Cavalier by Frans Hals.
/ COVENT GARDENaa
Covent Garden Piazza, the first London square, was designed by Inigo Jones in 1631. It was originally surrounded by colonnades, long demolished.
St Paul’s Church is an original survivor, its elegant portico dominating the west side of the square.
At the centre are the Central Market Buildingsaa, designed in 1832 by Charles Fowler, to house the fruit and vegetable market, which moved out in 1974. The tiny shops and market stalls which now occupy it sell all kinds of goods, much of it aimed at visiting tourists (fashion, jewellery, crafts, etc.) and there are dozens of refreshment options. One of the biggest draws is the high-quality (licensed) musicians and street artists who perform on the open cobblestones.
Covent Garden has long been synonymous with opera, and its Royal Opera Housea has been magnificently refurbished. Its design incorporates the original framework of the old Floral Hall.
Also recently revamped with great success, / London Transport Museumaa (open Sat–Thu 10am–6pm, Fri 11am–6pm; £15, child under-16 free; jf; t020 7379 6344; www.ltmuseum.co.uk) tells the fascinating story of the capital’s public transport history with a large collection of historic vehicles, interactive displays and archive materials that really bring its subject to life. It also has one of London’s best museum shops.
It is well worth exploring the narrow side streets in and around Covent Garden, particularly Neal’s Yard (off Shorts Gardens, a 2-min walk from Covent Garden Underground station) complete with period hoists, dovecotes, trees in tubs, geranium-filled window boxes and a whole raft of eco-friendly shopkeepers, vegetarian and wholefood restaurants and food outlets. It’s a particularly attractive spot in summer.
The Courtauld Galleryaa
ÊTemple, Embankment. Somerset House, Strand. Open year-round daily 10am–6pm. Closed 25–26 Dec. £6. £3 Mon inc. bank hols). jf. t020 7848 2526. www.courtauld.ac.uk.
The gallery is housed in one of central London’s finest riverside buildings, Somerset House, designed by Sir William Chambers and built 1776–86. Samuel Courtauld’s splendid private collection of Impressionists is the heart of the gallery, including famous canvases by Manet (Bar at the Folies-Bergère), Degas, Bonnard, Gauguin (Tahitian scenes), Van Gogh (Peach Trees in Blossom, Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear) Cézanne (Lake at Annécy) and Seurat. Other outstanding pieces include 30 oils by Rubens and six drawings by Michelangelo as well as works by Bruegel, Leonardo, Tiepolo, Dürer, Rembrandt, Bellini, Tintoretto and Kokoschka; paintings of the Italian Primitive school and of the Renaissance; paintings by the Bloomsbury Group.
In the summertime Somerset House stages open-air events; in winter it is home to a spectacular ice-rink.
SOHOa
This very cosmopolitan district (ÊLeicester Square, Piccadilly Circus), where immigrants once tended to congregate, is the home of the music and film trades, and night-life of every kind. Soho is particularly popular with the gay community.
In the latter decades of the 20C it became synonymous with sex clubs, prostitution and low-life. Today, although sex clubs and sex shops can still be found, the night scene is more reputable and much safer.
The area is also famous for its concentration of good places to eat and drink, with many top French, Italian, Greek and Chinese restaurants in particular. Many of the last can be found in and around Gerrard Street, London’s small Chinatowna district. This colourful area is marked by Oriental gates and other exotic street furniture, and abounds in eating places, supermarkets selling eastern foodstuffs and Oriental goods. At Chinese New Year this is the scene of one of London’s most colourful street festivals.
Gerrard Street leads onto Old Compton Street, the spiritual heart of bohemian Soho, lined with pubs, wine merchants, pastry shops and Italian food stores. In summer grab a sandwich or snack and retreat to bucolic Soho Square (est. 1680), between Greek and Frith streets.
At Leicester Squarea the bohemian character of Soho dissipates with the huge crowds that traverse this tree-shaded pedestrian precinct, made garish by the bright lights of many cinemas and tawdry cheap food outlets. In the run-up to the 2012 Olympics the square is being redeveloped, so you may notice lots of hoardings.
Theatre fans should note the TKTS Leicester Square building (formerly known as the Half-Price Ticket, where you can buy tickets for leading West End shows at a significant discount (Tsee p189).
HOLBORNa
The medieval manors at this former crossroads have been transformed into Lincoln’s Inn and Gray’s Inn, two of the four Inns of Court (Tsee below). The fields where beasts once grazed are less in extent but still open; on the north side stands the remarkable time capsule of Sir John Soane’s Museumaa (ÊHolborn; 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields; open Tue–Sat 10am–5pm, candlelit evening first Tue of each month 6pm–9pm; arrive early on Sat and by at least 5.30pm Tue evening, to ensure entry; closed bank hols, Good Fri and 24–26 Dec; free entry; guided tours Tue, Fri 11.30am & Wed, Thu 3.30pm £10, book online, some spaces available on day; t020 7405 2107; www.soane.org). This remarkable little museum presents the highly individual collection of Classical sculpture, architectural fragments, drawings, prints and paintings, assembled by Soane, the architect, in his own house and left virtually untouched as stipulated in his will in 1833. The highlight is the collection of pictures mostly assembled on folding and sliding planes which make the most of the very limited available space. There are drawings by Piranesi, paintings by Canaletto, Reynolds and Turner and 12 of Hogarth’s minutely observed paintings of London’s unpleasant 18C underbelly including The Election and The Rake’s Progress.
The area around High Holborn and Fleet Street has been the centre of legal London since the 14C, housing some of the world’s oldest surviving legal training establishments: Lincoln’s Inn, Gray’s Inn, Inner Temple and Middle Temple, known collectively as the Four Inns of Court. Each inn (which meant lodgings in Old English) resembles a small university campus, comprising rooms for practising barristers, a dining hall, a library and a chapel. They are oases of calm, little known even to most Londoners. The grounds and some of the buildings are open to the public from Monday to Friday. Lincoln’s Innaa (ÊHolborn; Entrances on Chancery Lane, Carey Street and Serle Street; grounds: open year-round Mon–Fri 7am–7pm excl bank hols; Chapel open Mon–Fri (excl bank hols), 9am–5pm; call to confirm; t020 7405 1393; www.lincolnsinn.org.uk) is the grandest of the four Inns of Court, dating back to the late-15C. The Old Hall dates from 1490; the Old Buildings are Tudor, while the Chapel was rebuilt 1620–23.
The Templea (ÊTemple; entrances on Fleet Street and Embankment; www.innertemple.org.uk), another remarkable ancient complex, comprises two of the four Inns of Court, Inner Temple and Middle Temple. The gabled, half-timbered three-storey Tudor Inner Temple Gateway leads off Fleet Street into the Temple, past 19C buildings and the houses (right) where Dr Johnson (of Dictionary fame) lived in the 1760s. It leads to Temple Church (usually open Mon–Fri 11am–1pm, 2–4pm see website to confirm; £4. t020 7353 8559; www.templechurch.com) made famous recently by The Da Vinci Code movie. This was built in the 12C in the round style of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. On the stone floor lie 10 effigies of knights in armour dating from the 10C to the 13C. The highlight of Middle Temple is the magnificent Middle Temple Hall (open Mon–Fri 9am–noon (functions permitting, call ahead); t020 7427 4800; www.middletemple.org.uk). The Elizabethan Great Hall has ancient oak timbers, panelling and fine carving, heraldic glass, helmets and armour and a remarkable double hammerbeam construction roof (1574). The splendid dining table is reputedly made from the hatch of Sir Francis Drake’s flagship Golden Hinde, and the suits of armour standing guard around the hall are of similar vintage.
On High Holborn, Gray’s Inna (ÊHolborn; gardens: open Mon–Fri, noon–2.30pm; squares: open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; closed (all areas) bank hols; www.graysinn.org.uk) was founded in the 14C. Its buildings date from the 16C though many have had to be renewed since the war. On the opposite side of the road, a contemporary survivor, from the late-16C, is the row of half-timbered houses (1586–96), forming the front of Staple Inna, which was also once a legal training establishment, albeit never an Inn of Court.
Just around the corner is another remarkable little half-timbered house, known as the Old Curiosity Shop (Portsmouth Street, SW corner of Lincoln’s Inn Fields) immortalised by Dickens in his eponymous novel (1841). It is a very rare example of an Elizabethan building (c.1567) to survive intact in London. It has had many recent guises and currently sells shoes (open Mon–Sat 10.30am–7pm).
BLOOMSBURYa
This former residential area with its many squares is dominated by two learned institutions, the British Museum (Tsee below) and the University of London. The development of Bloomsbury Square in 1661 brought a new concept in social planning; the 4th Earl of Southampton erected houses for the well-to-do around three sides of the square, a mansion for himself on the fourth, northern side and a network of service streets all around. A century later, in 1775, the elegant Bedford Squareaa was developed. It is still complete, with its three-storey brick terrace houses with first-floor balconies. More squares, now partly incorporated into the university precinct, followed. The most famous residents were the 1920s Bloomsbury Group of writers, artists and philosophers, including Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell and Roger Fry.
British Museumaaa
ÊRussell Square. Great Russell Street. Open year-round daily 10am–5.30pm (8.30pm Fri). Closed Good Fri, 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec. Charge for temporary exhibitions only. Various guided tours (see website). jf. t020 7323 8299. www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk.
Since the Millennium the British Museum has undergone the biggest revolution in its centuries-old existence. The Great Court, designed by Sir Norman Foster, is now the hub of the museum – its glass-and-steel roof spans the space to the Reading Room – and makes for a stunning entrance foyer.
It all began back in 1753 when Sir Hans Sloane’s collection was bequeathed to the nation. This augmented the old Royal Library of 12,000 volumes assembled by monarchs since Tudor times. Acquisitions increased dramatically in the 19C and 20C with finds by archaeologists attached to the museum, bringing the museum its reputation as one of the greatest centres of world antiquities. Notable among the Egyptian antiquities are the mummies, and the Rosetta Stone, which provided a key for deciphering heiroglyphics. No less fascinating is Ginger (so-named after the colour of his hair), a 5,000-year-old corpse buried in hot sands c.3300 BC and naturally preserved intact.
The collection of Western Asiatic antiquities is particularly wide-ranging, including the world-famous Elgin Marbles (Tsee below). Look carefully at the exquisite Roman Portland Vase and you can see that it has been carefully pieced back together again after it was smashed it into 200 pieces in 1845.
Lindow Man (1C AD), garrotted and preserved in a peat bog, is evidence of human sacrifice. Reminders of Roman Britain include the 4C silver set of tableware known as the Mildenhall Treasure, found in Suffolk, and considered to be the finest pieces of their kind anywhere in the Roman Empire. This was eclipsed in 1994 by the Hoxne Hoard – thousands of coins, jewellery and silver plate, also found in Suffolk.
In the Medieval, Renaissance and Modern Collections is the Sutton Hoo Ship Burial, which shows the rich variety of artefacts retrieved from a royal tomb including fabulous gold jewellery, weapons and armour. Note too the beautifully carved mid-12C walrus ivory Lewis Chessmen found on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides.
The Western Asiatic section, covering Mesopotamia and Asia Minor, includes breathtaking Assyrian sculptures from the cities of Nimrud, Khorsabad and Nineveh. From ancient Iran the rich artistic tradition of the Persian Empire shines through in the Luristan Bronzes c.1200 BC, and the fabulous Oxus Treasure (5C–4C BC).
The circular, domed Reading Room (40ft/12m wide) dates from 1857, and was designed to ensure that the “poorest student” as well as men of letters should be able to have access to the library. It accommodates 400 readers and 25mi/40km of shelving (1,300,000 books). The restored blue-and-gold decoration of the dome re-creates the original setting, where Karl Marx, Lenin and George Bernard Shaw, among many others, have sat and studied
British Libraryaa
ÊEuston Square. 96 Euston Road. Galleries: Open Mon–Thu 9.30am–8pm, Fri 9.30am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–5pm), Sun and bank hols 11am–5pm. jf. t0843 208 1144. www.bl.uk.
The British Library houses the world’s second-largest collection of written works after the Library of Congress in the USA. Opened in 1997, the St Pancras building (there are other branches) is a monumental free-form, asymmetric structure of red brick, Welsh slate and metal and granite. The entrance piazza is dominated by a huge bronze statue of Newton by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi.
The library’s most famous treasures, on display in the Sir John Ritblat Gallery, include a copy of Magna Carta, the Lindisfarne Gospel, Codex Sinaiticus, the Gutenberg Bible, the Diamond Sutra, Nelson’s last letter, Shakespeare’s signature and First Folio (1623), and Beatles’ manuscripts. Advanced technology makes it possible to turn the pages of rare books (if only virtually) at the touch of a button. There are two other permanent galleries, devoted to philately and conservation, as well as temporary exhibitions.
REGENT‘S PARKaa
This beautiful park (ÊRegent’s Park), bounded to the north by the Regent’s Canal, surrounded by dazzling white Regency terraces and splendid villas, was laid out in the early-19C by John Nash. Regent’s Park is famous for its zoo, and is much loved for its rose garden and boating lake. Bordering it to the south is the busy Marylebone Road and Madame Tussaud’s.
/ ZSL London Zooaa
ÊRegent‘s Park, Camden Town. Outer Circle, Regent’s Park. Open daily 10am–6pm (Jun–Jul until 10pm, first week Sept–third week Oct 5.30pm, winter 4.30pm); last entry 1hr before closing. Closed 25 Dec. from £21.36, child from £15.45. Reduced prices winter. Book online for discount and to beat queues. jf. t0844 225 1826. www.zsl.org/zsl-london-zoo.
The Zoological Society of London (ZSL) opened on a 5-acre/2ha site in Regent’s Park in 1828. Today it covers 36 acres/14ha with around 8,000 animals from 900 species. The emphasis nowadays is placed on breeding endangered animals and on foreign conservation projects. Family favourites include the lions, tigers, rhinos, gorillas, monkeys, penguins and giraffes. Pick up a programme of activities and plan your visit around that.
Madame Tussaud’sa (C1)
ÊBaker Street. Open daily year-round 9.30am–5.30pm last admission (9am–6pm last admission weekends and school hols). Closed 25 Dec. £30. Book Online (from £22.50) to avoid queues and for up to 25 percent discount). j. t0871 894 3000. www.madametussauds.com.
The oldest waxwork in this world-famous collection is of Louis XV’s mistress, portrayed as Sleeping Beauty, made by Madame Tussaud herself. There are over 300 other famous likenesses, from the worlds of film (with a special Bollywood feature), sport, culture, British royalty, world leaders and murderers in the Chamber of Horrors (complete with live actors). A Spirit of London Ride and a Marvel Super Heroes 4D movie completes the visit.
City of Londonaaa 
SIGHTS
St Paul’s Cathedralaaa
ÊSt Paul’s. Open Mon–Sat 8.30am–4pm (last entry). Galleries 9.30am–4.15pm. Sun services only. £16 (£14.50 online). Guided tours free. jf. t020 7246 8357; 020 7246 8348 (recorded info). www.stpauls.co.uk.
The present cathedral, the fourth or fifth on a site dating back to AD 604, is the masterpiece of Sir Christopher Wren (1632–1723). After the Great Fire of 1666, Old St Paul’s was a ruin. The foundation stone of the new cathedral was laid on 21 June 1675 and 33 years later Wren saw his son set the final stone in place – the topmost in the lantern. When Wren died 15 years later he was buried within the walls. Beneath the dome his own epitaph reads in Latin: “Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you.”
Exterior – The most striking feature is the dome, even today a dominant feature of the City skyline. Unlike the dome of St Peter’s, which influenced Wren, it is not a true hemisphere. The drum below it is in two tiers, the lower encircled by columns and crowned by a balustrade, the upper recessed behind the balustrade so as to afford a circular viewing gallery, the Stone Gallery. On top of the dome, the lantern features columns on all four sides and a small cupola serving as a plinth to the 6.5ft-/2m-diameter golden ball.
The west end, approached by two wide flights of steps, is composed of a two-tier portico of columns below a decorated pediment surmounted by St Paul. On either side rise Wren’s Baroque spires. A notable feature of the exterior is the profuse carving by Grinling Gibbons and others.
Interior – The impression is one of space, of almost luminescent stone and, in the distance, gold and mosaic.
A 270-degree film exhibition, Oculus; An Eye into St Paul’s traces both the cathedral’s 1,400 year-history and its daily life. “Virtual access” films also cover the dome and galleries.
In the nave the entire space between two piers in the north aisle is occupied by the Wellington monument; in the south aisle hangs Holman Hunt’s The Light of the World. From the Whispering Gallery in the dome (259 steps) there are impressive views of the concourse below, and close views of the interior of the dome, painted by Thornhill. A whisper spoken close to the wall can be clearly heard on the diametrically opposite side. The viewsaaa from the Golden Gallery at the top of the dome are even more dizzying than from the Stone Gallery (543 steps). In the choir the dark oak stalls are the exquisite work of Grinling Gibbons. The iron railing, the gates to the choir aisles and the great gilded screens enclosing the sanctuary are the work of Jean Tijou. The graceful sculpture of the Virgin and Child in the north aisle is by Henry Moore (1984). In the south aisle is a rare pre-Fire relic, a scorch-marked statue of John Donne, the great poet and Dean of St Paul’s 1621–31. The Crypt contains tombs of many illustrious individuals and memorials, too numerous to list.
St Paul’s Cathedral viewed from The South Bank with the Millennium Bridge
© C. Eyemenier/MICHELIN
Barbicana
ÊBarbican. The Barbican complex (built 1962–82) combines residential accommodation with a world-class arts centre, (www.barbican.org.uk) a medieval church and the Museum of London.
Museum of Londonaa
ÊBarbican, Moorgate. London Wall. Open year-round daily 10am–6pm. Closed 24–26 Dec. jf. t020 7001 9844. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.
The biggest city history museum in the world presents the story of London from prehistory to the present day, with exhibits as various as the sculptures from the Roman temple of Mithras, medieval pilgrim badges, the Cheapside Hoard of Jacobean jewellery, a diorama of the Great Fire, the doors from Newgate Gaol, 19C shops and interiors, the Lord Mayor’s Coach, souvenirs of the women’s suffrage movement… right through the swinging 60s and into 21C issues.
/ Tower of Londonaaa
ÊTower Hill. Open Mar–Oct Tue–Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun–Mon 10am–5.30pm. Nov–Feb closes 4.30pm. Closed 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec. £19.50, child £9.75. Buy tickets online (at a discount) or t0844 482 7799 (£2 service charge) to reduce queuing time. Guided tour (1hr) by Yeoman Warders. Last tour: summer 3.30pm, winter 2.30pm. Free. jf. t0844 482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk.
In 1067 William I constructed a wooden fortress then replaced it with one in stone (c.1077–97) in order to deter Londoners from revolt; its river site also gave immediate sighting of any hostile force coming up the Thames. Norman, Plantagenet and Tudor successors recognised its value and extended it until it occupied 18 acres/7ha.
From 1300 to 1810 the Tower housed the Royal Mint; because of its defences it became the Royal Jewel House and also served as a feared prison. Monarchs have been associated with the Tower from William the Conqueror to Elizabeth I.
The Jewel House (wqueues tend to be shorter early in the day) displays the Crown Jewelsaaa which date from the Restoration to the present day, almost all of the earlier regalia having been sold or melted down by Oliver Cromwell. The Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula, consecrated in the 12C, rebuilt in the 13C and 16C, is the burial place of several dukes and two of Henry VIII’s queens, beheaded in the Tower.
Traitors’ Gate was the main entrance to the Tower when the Thames was still London’s principal thoroughfare; later, when the river served only for secret access, the entrance acquired its chilling name. The Bloody Tower gained its name in the 16C and was perhaps the place where the “Princes in the Tower” were murdered in 1483. Sir Walter Raleigh was imprisoned here 1603–1615.
The White Toweraaa keep is one of the earliest fortifications on such a scale in western Europe, begun by William I in 1078 and completed 20 years later by William Rufus. The 100ft-/30m-high stone walls form an uneven quadrilateral, its corners marked by one circular and three square towers. The Armour Collection, one of the world’s greatest, was started by Henry VIII and increased under Charles II. On the second floor, St John’s Chapelaa remains much as it was when completed in 1080, a 55ft-/17m-long stone chapel rising through two floors. An inner line of great round columns with simply carved capitals bears circular Norman arches and is echoed above in a second tier.
Beauchamp Towera, built in the 13C, has served as a prison since the 14C. The walls of the main chamber are inscribed with prisoners’ graffiti.
White Tower, Tower of London
© visitlondonimages / britainonview / Pawel Libera
Tower Bridgeaa
Ê Tower Hill, London Bridge. Riverboat to Tower Pier. Tower Bridge Road. Open daily, Apr–Sept 10am–6pm. Oct–Mar 9.30am–5.30pm. Closed 24–26 Dec. £8. j. t020 7403 3761.
The familiar Gothic towers, high-level walkways and the original engine rooms form part of the tour which traces the design of the bridge by Sir John Wolfe-Barry and Horace Jones, its construction (1886–94) and explains the functioning of the hydraulic mechanism which, until 1976, raised the 1,100ton drawbridge-like bascules (now driven by electricity).
St Katharine Docksa
In 1828 Thomas Telford developed this series of basins and warehouses next to The City and they prospered for over a hundred years. After wartime bombing, however, the dock was abandoned until 1968, when moorings were organised for private yachts. Telford’s main Italianate-style building was restored as Ivory House with apartments above a shopping arcade. Restaurants and bars now proliferate around the dock.
SIGHTS
In the 16C the borough of Southwark was infamous for its brothels and theatres, on account of its location outside the jurisdiction of the City of London. Near the site of the original Globe Theatre, where Shakespeare’s plays were performed, now stands the landmark Shakespeare’s Globeaa which replicates the original 16C structure. The Elizabethan playhouse’s stage thrusts into a large circular yard surrounded by three tiers of roofed seating in the round. Stage productionsaa are held in this authentic outdoor setting each summer (late Apr– early Oct) and the site also has an excellent permanent exhibitiona (ÊMansion House, London Bridge; 21 New Globe Walk; open daily winter 9am–5.30pm, from mid-Apr through mid-Oct when matinées play, no access to Globe Theatre, tour of Exhibition and Rose Theatre 9–12.30pm (11.30am Sun) or 1am–5pm (Sun noon–5pm) see website for full details; closed 24–25 Dec; £13.50; jf; t020 7902 1400; www.shakespearesglobe.com).
The most spectacular local medieval building is the George Inna, still a functioning pub, built round three sides of a courtyard, although only one of the galleried ranges has survived. Along the river old warehouses have been converted to new uses – Hays Galleria with its shops, pubs and modern sculpture, and the acclaimed Design Museum (ÊTower Hill; Shad Thames; open year-round daily 10am–5.45pm; closed 25–26 Dec; £10.85; jf; t020 7403 6933; www.designmuseum.org), are two examples. The latter illustrates the evolution of contemporary design via temporary exhibitions featuring the works of nationally and internationally renowned designers. The museum is moving to Kensington High Street in November 2015.
Shakespeare’s Globe
© visitlondonimages / britainonview / Pawel Libera
LONDON BRIDGE
With the relocation of long-time resident and teen-favourite, the London Dungeon to the South Bank (Tsee p171), horror seekers will have to get their kicks at the London Bridge Experience (ÊLondon Bridge. Tooley Street; open year-round daily 10am–5pm (last entry), Sat 6pm; closed 25 Dec; £23 on the door, £19 online, child under 15 £17 on the door £13 online; buy timed tickets in advance to make savings and to avoid waiting time; jf; t0800 0434 666; www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com). This weaves ghostly happenings and special effects into the colourful history of London Bridge. It does have some historical interest and not a little humour, but also features a good dose of terror and is unsuitable for young children.
A five-minute walk to the river from here is HMS Belfast (ÊLondon Bridge; Morgan’s Lane, Tooley Street; open daily 10am–6pm (5pm Nov–Feb); closed 24–26 Dec; f; t020 7940 6300; http://hmsbelfast.iwm.org.uk). This great grey cruiser (built 1938), moored against the south bank of the Thames, saw service with the North Atlantic Convoys, and also on D-Day in 1944.
Just beyond is the landmark City Hall (ÊLondon Bridge; The Queen’s Walk open Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm/5.30pm Fri; f; t020 7983 4000; www.london.gov.uk/city-hall). This striking rounded glass building by Foster + Partners is home to the Greater London Authority and the office of the Mayor of London. It’s well worth a look inside for its architecture, views of the river, and its exhibitions.
Retrace your steps to follow the riverbank west and just on the other side of London Bridge is Southwark Cathedralaa (ÊLondon Bridge; open year-round daily 8am–6pm (Sat–Sun and bank hols 8.30am–6pm); £4 contribution requested; jf; t020 7367 700; http://cathedral.southwark.anglican.org). The cathedral began life in 1106 and its earliest work is the fragment of a Norman arch in the north wall. The massive piers supporting the central tower and the Early English chancel date from the 13C. The altar screen (1520) appears in sumptuous Gothic glory; it remained empty until 1905 when statues were carved to fill the niches. The nave was rebuilt in 1890–97 to harmonise with the chancel. Notable features are the Harvard Chapel, the 1616 monument to Alderman Humble and his wives, and the 12 bosses rescued from the 15C wooden roof which collapsed in 1830.
The cathedral bounds Borough Marketa (Tsee p188). This is not only London’s oldest food market but also the country’s most important retail market for fine foods and a great place to sit down and eat too.
Continuing west from here along the river, you come to the Golden Hinde ÊLondon Bridge, Monument. St Mary Overie Dock; open Mon–Sat 10am–5.30pm (important: call or check website to avoid days with private events); £7, child £5; t020 7403 0123; http://goldenhinde.com), a full-size seaworthy replica of the 16C ship in which Sir Francis Drake’s circumnavigated the world. “Hands-on” learning with costumed interpreters is the order of the day.
Blue Plaques
All over the capital you will find blue plaques affixed to buildings where famous people have lived. In total there are over 880 in London including actors, authors, politicians, painters, scientists, sportsmen, campaigners and reformers – people from different countries, cultures and backgrounds have all been commemorated in this way. In order to be eligible for a plaque there are a number of criteria to be met: the person must have been dead for 20 years, or have passed the centenary of their birth, whichever is the earlier; be considered eminent by a majority of members of their own profession or calling; have made an important positive contribution to human welfare or happiness; be recognisable to the well-informed passer-by; deserve national recognition; have resided in a locality for a significant period, in time or importance, within their life and work. To illustrate their diversity, in Mayfair there is a plaque to George Frideric Handel at 25 Brook Street and next door at no. 23 a plaque to Jimi Hendrix.
SOUTHBANK AND LAMBETH
Head west along the river from London Bridge to the landmark Tate Modernaa (ÊSouthwark, Blackfriars. Bankside; open year-round daily 10am–6pm (Fri–Sat 10pm); closed 24–26 Dec; charge only for temporary exhibitions; jõ(disabled visitors only) f; t020 7887 8888; www.tate.org.uk). The former Bankside Power Station, with its single chimney (325ft/99m) and giant internal dimensions, makes a striking home for this major gallery, devoted to international 20C and 21C art. The wealth of the collection is largely due to the bequests of Sir Roland Penrose, one-time friend of Picasso and Ernst, and that of Edward James, a former patron to Dalí and Magritte. Gigantic sculptures by contemporary artists are set off by the vast spaces of the Turbine Hall (500ft/152m long and 115ft/35m high), where overhead cranes recall the building’s working life. Themed displays mean that you can never quite be sure what will be here at any one time. World-class special exhibitions are regularly staged.
Further west is the Southbank Centreaa (ÊWaterloo; www.southbankcentre.co.uk, www.nationaltheatre.org.uk, www.bfi.org.uk), the UK’s most important arts and theatre complex. The Brutalist-style grey concrete buildings house: the National Theatre, which stages the finest theatre productions in the country outside London’s West End; the BFI (British Film Institute) Southbank, formerly known as the National Film Theatre, which screens both classic and cult movies; the Royal Festival Hall specialises in orchestral concerts; the Queen Elizabeth Hall hosts chamber orchestras, quartets, choirs, dance performances and opera (and also contains the Purcell Room); the Hayward Gallery has a rotating exhibition of contemporary art. Bookshops, cafés, restaurants and live foyer events ensure that the South Bank is lively for much of the day as well as during evening performances.
In the last couple of years this has also become a vibrant nightlife district on summer nights thanks to a variety of temporary entertainment venues, in particular the London Wonderground’s cabaret, circus and sideshows.
Carrying on west along the riverbank you will find the London Eyeaa (E3;ÊWestminster, Waterloo; South Bank; ticket office in County Hall; open daily year-round, 10am–8.30pm/9.30pm, Dec 5.30pm; closed for annual maintenance second and third week Jan; due to its huge popularity, visitors should book a time slot in advance; a limited number of tickets are sold on-site every day; from £19.20 (10 percent discount online); jf; t0800 093 0123 (enquiries); 0871 781 3000 (bookings); www.londoneye.com). On the opposite side of the river to Parliament this giant observation wheel is a spectacular Millennium landmark on the Thames. Sightseers are accommodated in glass pods to enjoy unparalleled viewsaaa of London 443ft/135m high during their 30-minute ride.
Next to the Eye, inside County Hall are a number of visitor attractions. New to the location, though long established in the capital, is the infamous London Dungeona (/;ÊWestminster, Waterloo; open year-round daily; term time Mon–Fri 10am (11am Thu)–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; school hols daily 10am (11am Thu)–7pm; closed 25 Dec; £24.60 on the door, from £16.90 online, child £19.20 on the door, from £12.95 online; buy timed tickets in advance to avoid waiting time; jf; t020 7403 7221; www.thedungeons.com/london). Newly revamped and more terrifying than ever, this gruesome all-too-lifelike exhibition of death, disease, disaster and torture in past centuries features theme-park-style rides and is hugely popular with gore-loving teens.
The Sea Life London Aquariuma (E3; /; ÊWestminster, Waterloo. County Hall; open year-round daily 10am–6pm (Sat–Sun 7pm); £20.70, child £15 (10 percent discount online); jf; 0871 663 1678; www.visitsealife.com/london) is one of Europe’s largest aquariums with sharks in spectacular large-scale tanks, piranhas at feeding time and stingrays in a touch-tank. There are also exhibits on local and British marine life.
The London Film Museum (E3; ÊWestminster, Waterloo; County Hall; open year-round, Mon–Fri 10am (11am Thu)–5pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; £13.50;j; t020 7202 7040; www.londonfilmmuseum.com/south-bank) concentrates mostly on British films, but also has enough of international interest for most regular cinema fans.
A short walk away, the other side of Westminster Bridge, is the Imperial War Museumaaa(F3; ÊLambeth North, Elephant and Castle; Lambeth Road; open year-round daily 10am–6pm; charge for temporary exhibitions; jf; t020 7416 5000; www.iwm.org.uk). One of the world’s finest war museums, currently in the middle of a major redevelopment (see website), this sensitive and thought-provoking exhibition honours both civilians and those who have served during wartime.
A wide range of weapons and equipment is on display: armoured fighting vehicles, field guns and small arms, together with models, decorations, uniforms, posters and photographs, masses of archive material, including moving first-hand oral accounts of warfare, as well as a selection from the museum’s outstanding collection based on the work of two generations of official war artists.
CAMDEN
Set immediately north of Regent’s Park, gritty Camden (ÊCamden Town) provides a stark contrast to grand Palladian villas. This is one of London’s more bohemian areas and is famous for its marketsaa (Camden Market, Camden Lock Market and Canal Market), which sell antiques, fashion and bric-a-brac, catering to a young and alternative lifestyle. The area also bustles by night with buzzing live music venues, down-to-earth pubs and cheap ethnic eats.
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
One of London’s most exclusive suburbs, Knightsbridge (ÊKnightsbridge) is synonymous with Harrodsaa (est 1849), the world’s most famous department store, and its neighbour, Harvey Nicholsa, where “ladies who lunch” come for the very best in fashion, beauty and home accessories. Both stores are renowned for their displays; “Harvey Nicks” for its window dressing and Harrods for its cornucopian turn-of-the-century Food Halls. By night, Harrods’ terracotta façade, added in 1901, illuminated by around 11,000 lightbulbs, is a famous London sight.
KENSINGTONaa
Kensington is one of London’s wealthiest suburbs and Kensington High Street (Ê) offers local as well as brand-name shops, with The Design Museum, (Tsee p169) moving here in November 2015. Just off the High Street, Holland Park (Ê) is a pretty, bucolic retreat from the crowds. Immediately north is Notting Hill (Ê), famous for its carnival (last weekend Aug), and weekly (Sat) Portobello Road Market (Tsee p188). The antiques market here is claimed to be the world’s largest and includes many shops, also open in the week.
South Kensington is home to three world-famous national museums (Tsee below).
Kensington Palaceaa
ÊQueensway, High Street Kensington. Open daily 10am–6pm (Nov–Feb 5pm. Closed 24–26 Dec. £15, (£14 online). j. t0844 482 7799. www.hrp.org.uk.
This early-17C Jacobean house has passed through three principal phases: under the House of Orange it was William III’s private residence, with Sir Christopher Wren as principal architect; under the early Hanoverians it became a royal palace, with William Kent in charge of decorative schemes; since 1760 it has been a residence for members of the royal family, most famously the late Diana, Princess of Wales, and now the official home of William and Kate, Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, and their infant son, George.
The State Apartments are approached by the Queen’s Staircase, designed by Wren. The Queen’s Gallery has carving by Grinling Gibbons and portraits by Kneller and Lely. The Privy and lofty Presence Chamber, Cupola and Drawing Rooms, added for George I in 1718–20, were decorated by William Kent during 1722–27, covering the walls and ceiling with trompe l’œil paintings. The palace has recently reopened after two years of major renovations, making for a much richer and less formal visit than in the past. The “Fashion Rules” collection of 12,000 items worn by royalty and courtiers from the 17C to the present day, from George III and Queen Victoria, to the Queen, and Diana, Princess of Wales, is a long-established favourite. Brand new are the multi-media installations and live interactive theatre, examining the sometimes tragic lives of the palace’s inhabitants, and this is certainly the first royal residence with talking cushions; take a seat and tune into court gossip from years gone by!
Kensington Gardensaa
ÊQueensway, High Street Kensington.
At weekends these gardens are a favourite walk with Kensington locals, most famously nannies with their small charges. The Round Pond is the focal point for avenues radiating northeast, east and southeast to the Serpentine, where rowing boats may be hired, and Long Water. The early-18C Orangerya, Hawksmoor’s splendid Baroque centrepiece (1705), now houses a restaurant.
Beyond the Flower Walk on the south side of the gardens stands the Albert Memoriala (1876), designed by George Gilbert Scott. Beneath a highly ornamented Gothic Revival spire surrounded by statues and a frieze of 169 named figures of poets, artists, architects and composer, sits a bronze statue (14ft/4.2m) of the Prince Consort who did so much to further the arts and learning, until his premature death in 1861. Opposite stands the Royal Albert Halla (1867–71), a splendid venue for meetings, conferences and concerts, notably the eight-week summer season of Promenade Concerts (“the Proms”).
Hyde Parkaa
ÊMarble Arch, High Street Kensington, Hyde Park Corner)
Adjoining Kensington Gardens to the east, Hyde Park is less formally laid out and very popular with office-workers and tourists alike, who come to enjoy the fresh air.
In the corner of the park nearest Oxford Street stands Marble Arch (CX), the triumphal arch designed by John Nash in 1827 as a grand entrance to Buckingham Palace in commemoration of the battles of Trafalgar and Waterloo. Embarrassingly it was never used, as it was too narrow to accommodate the royal Gold Stage Coach, and eventually ended up here. Beside the arch is Speakers’ Corner (CX). In 1872 the government recognised the need for a place of public assembly and free discussion. Anyone can stand up and speak here, as they frequently do on a Sunday morning, as long as they observe certain rules including no blasphemy, nor must they incite a breach of the peace.
/ Natural History Museumaaa
ÊSouth Kensington. Cromwell Road. Open year-round daily 10am–5.50pm. Last Fri each month (excl Dec) open until 10.30pm with food, licensed bar and music in the Cental (“ Dinosaurs”) Hall. Closed 24–26 Dec. Charge for special exhibitions. jf. Frequent guided tours available, enquire at reception. t020 7942 5000. www.nhm.ac.uk.
Alfred Waterhouse’s vast palace, inspired by medieval Rhineland architecture, was opened in 1881 to house the British Museum’s ever-growing natural history collection, which today illustrates all forms of life, from the smallest bacteria to the largest creatures. This is now one of the country’s favourite family museums, superbly combining education and entertainment with spectacular exhibits such as the famous blue whale model and huge dinosaur skeletons. Dinosaurs and fossils are still most visitors’ favourite area and the diplodocus skeleton in the foyer has become a museum icon. Elsewhere you can learn about human biology, creepy crawlies, the origin of the species, take a behind-the-scenes tour, visit the Earth Galleries and get caught in a real earthquake simulation. The latest major development is the fascinating Darwin Centre, dedicated to evolution.
/ Science Museumaaa
ÊSouth Kensington. Exhibition Road. Open daily 10am–6pm (7pm during school hols). Closed 24–26 Dec. Free except IMAX cinema, simulators and special exhibitions. jf. t0870 870 4868. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.
This world-beating factory-laboratory of Man’s continuing invention extends over 7 acres/3ha. Large-scale exhibits range from early beam engines to actual spacecraft, the first biplanes to jet aircraft, historic railway engines, road vehicles, and it is quite easy to spend a whole day here simply marvelling at the hardware without the need for any technical knowledge.
For more enquiring minds there are innumerable working models, handles to pull, buttons to push, huge floor areas devoted completely to hands-on experiments and cutting-edge technology. Children (and adults) also love the IMAX theatre with its 3-D films. Don’t miss the Wellcome Galleries or the History of Medicine, on the upper floors.
ÊSouth Kensington. Entrances in Cromwell Road and Exhibition Road. Open year-round daily 10am–5.45pm (selected galleries 10pm Fri). Closed 24 Dec–26. Charge for special exhibitions. Guided tours. jf. t020 7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk.
This fabulously rich and varied collection was started, in part, with the purchase of contemporary works manufactured for the Great Exhibition of 1851. It includes the national collection of furniture, British sculpture, textiles, ceramics, silver and watercolours, as well as world-famous displays of fashionable dress, jewellery, Italian Renaissance sculpture, and art from India and the Far East.
Renaissance sculptures – The most highly prized work is Michelangelo’s Slave, a wax model for a figure intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II.
Cast courts – Plaster casts made 1860–1880 for art students who could not go abroad to see the real thing, include Trajan’s Column, St George (Donatello) and Dying Slave (Michelangelo).
Prints, drawings and paintings – The most valuable collection here is the Raphael Cartoons, seven huge tapestry patterns, commissioned in 1515 by Pope Leo X for the Sistine Chapel.
Furniture and woodwork – The collection ranges from the Middle Ages to the present day and encompasses just about every culture. The Great Bed of Ware, mentioned by Shakespeare, is the most remarkable piece of ancient British furniture. It is said to have once slept 52 people (26 butchers and their wives).
Textiles and dress – ne of the world’s most extensive collections of textiles.
Metalworks and jewellery – This is perhaps the most diverse and eclectic national collection, ranging from the 2C BC to the 21C AD, and encompasses a very broad spectrum and some magnificent pieces. The Gilbert Collection of gold, silver, micro-mosaics and gold boxes is a beautiful recent addition.
Eastern works of art – Some 60,000 artefacts from China, Korea and Japan.
CHELSEAaa
Riverside Chelsea (ÊSloane Square, Pimlico) has always attracted artists, architects, writers and actors. Chelsea has long had a reputation for fashionable bohemian living, but it is currently better known as a well-heeled suburb. In 1955 the opening of Bazaar clothes boutique by Mary Quant led to a radical change in dress with the launch of the mini skirt. During the 1960s, the King’s Roada became “the navel of swinging London”, then in 1971, Chelsea fashion was re-invigorated by Vivienne Westwood, who opened her clothes shop at 430 Kings Road. The road became the launching point for the Punk movement. Punk fashions are rarely seen here today, but you may spot a celebrity.
Royal Hospitala
Royal Hospital Road. Open: Museum Mon (excl. bank hols)–Fri 10am–noon, 2–4pm. Great Hall & Chapel: Mon–Sat 11am–noon, 2–4pm. Grounds: open daily 10am (Sun 2pm)–dusk. t020 7881 5200. www.chelsea-pensioners.co.uk.
The Royal Hospital was founded by King Charles II in 1682 as a retreat for veterans of the regular army who had been retired from duty after 20 years’ service, or had become unfit for duty as a result of wounds or disease. The Chelsea Flower Show is held here.
PIMLICO
Tate Britainaaa
ÊPimlico, then 5min walk (signed). Millbank. Open year-round daily, 10am–6pm (Fri bi-monthly 10pm). Closed 24–26 Dec. Charge for temporary exhibitions only. Guided tours daily 11am noon, 2pm, 3pm. jf.
t020 7887 8888. www.tate.org.uk.
In 1897 Henry Tate, sugar broker and British art collector, offered his collection to the nation and £80,000 for a building, if the government would provide a site. The museum is devoted exclusively to British art from 1500 to the present day. The Clore Gallery Turner Collection is a highlight and is one of the relatively few permanent exhibits.
GREENWICHaaa
London’s Maritime Centre
(ÊCutty Sark DLR). The Tudors preferred Greenwich to their other royal residences, and Henry VIII, who was born here, built a vast palace with a royal armoury; he also founded naval dockyards at neighbouring Deptford and Woolwich. During the Commonwealth, however, the palace became derelict and only the Queen’s House survived. William and Mary granted a charter for the foundation of a Royal Hospital for Seamen at Greenwich, with Wren as surveyor. In 1873 the buildings were transformed into the Royal Naval College, and eventually the Queen’s House became part of the Maritime Museum.
Greenwich Parka is the oldest enclosed royal domain, extending for 180 acres/73ha, rising to a point 155ft/47m above the river. It is a wonderful place for a picnic with viewsaa across to Docklands, west to St Paul’s and beyond.
/ National Maritime Museumaaa
Romney Road. Open 10am–5pm (summer 6pm); selected museum galleries Thu 8pm. Royal Observatory Flamsteed House and Meridian Courtyard £6.35, child £2.25; Planetarium £6.50, child £4.50 (book timed ticket in advance). Cutty Sark £10.90, child £5.90. All-inclusive “Big Ticket” £18.15, child £9.05. Other combi-tickets available. j.f. t020 8858 4422. www.nmm.ac.uk.
As part of its £20 million Millennium makeover, this museum of Britain’s naval past – the largest maritime collection in the world with over two million objects – added an impressive single-span glazed roof, the largest in Europe, above its Neoclassical courtyard. The museum’s centrepiece gallery is the Sammy Ofer wing, home to “Voyagers”, telling the story of Britain and the sea, illustrating the contemporary significance of maritime histories. For hands-on fun there’s the Children’s Gallery and Ship Simulator Interactive Galleries. Within the complex is the Queen’s Houseaa. This elegant white Palladian villa was designed by Inigo Jones in 1615 as Britain’s very first Classical mansion.
The O2
Built to celebrate the Millennium and sited right on the Meridian Line, the Millennium Dome is the largest single-roofed structure in the world. Its external appearance is that of a huge (1,197ft/365m diameter) white marquee held up by twelve 312ft-/95m-high towers. Its circumference exceeds 0.62mi/1km and the floor space is large enough to park 18,000 London buses. Now known as the O2, it stages major concerts and other events (www.theo2.co.uk). The O2 also has one of London’s more unusual and thrilling experiences, climbing the iconic roof (while safely tethered) via a tensile fabric walkway suspended over 170ft (52m) above ground. www.theo2.co.uk/upattheo2
Royal Observatoryaa
The Old Royal Observatory was built by Christopher Wren in 1675 “for finding out the longitude of places for perfect navigation and astronomy”.
Inside Wren’s brick Flamsteed House is the lofty Octagon Room, beautifully proportioned, equipped with what John Evelyn called “the choicest instrument”. The Meridian Building was added in the mid-18C to house the growing telescope collectionaa. Note Airey’s Transit Circle, through which the meridian passes, and outside, in the Meridian Courtyard, a brass rail marking the meridian of 0°, which visitors enjoy standing astride (thus being in two meridians at once). Adjacent is the Astronomy Centre including three galleries and the state-of-the-art Peter Harrison Planetarium.
Cutty Sarkaa
King William Walk. See National Maritime Museum for times and charges. j(limited number of spaces, call ahead)f. t020 8858 4422. www.nmm.ac.uk.
Most famous as a tea clipper, though carrying many other cargoes, Cutty Sark visited every major port in the world through the course of her working life (1869–1922) during which time she was the fastest ship of her type. She came to her present resting place in 1954 but was badly damaged by fire in 2007 and only reopened to the public in 2012. A spectacular new viewing arrangement however allows visitors to walk right beneath the keel. Onboard you can learn all about the fascinating history of the ship and see the largest collection of ships’ figureheads in the world.
Painted Hall and Chapel and Discover Greenwich Visitor Centre. Open daily, 10am (Sun 11am–2.30pm service in chapel) to 5pm. Guided tours £6. Entry free. t020 8269 4791. www.oldroyalnavalcollege.org.
After the demolition of the old Tudor Palace (Tsee p175), Wren retained the King Charles Block to which he added three symmetrical blocks named after King William, Queen Mary and Queen Anne. For the Queen’s House (Tsee p175) he provided a river vista (150ft/46m) flanked by twin cupolas over the Chapel and the Painted Hall down to a new river embankment. The result is a Baroque masterpiece of English architecture set in landscaped grounds.
The Painted Halla in the domed refectory is the work of Sir James Thornhill. The ceiling is covered by the largest painting (106ft/32m by 51ft/16m) in Great Britain, the Triumph of Peace and Liberty, by Sir James Thornhill.
WEST AND SOUTHWEST
Osterley Parkaa
NT. ÊOsterley then 20min walk. Jersey Road, Isleworth. House: open late Mar–Sept daily 11am–5pm. Late Feb–late Mar and Oct daily noon–4pm. Nov–mid-Dec Sat–Sun only noon–4pm. Only basement floor and garden open Mon & Tue. Park: open year-round daily 8am–7.30pm/dusk. £9 (Mon & Tue £4.50), gardens only, £3.95. õ £3.50.j.f. t020 8232 5050.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/osterley-park.
Osterley is the place to see Robert Adam rich interior decoration at its most complete – room after room just as he designed them between 1761 and 1780, in every detail from ceilings and walls to the furniture. This magnificent Neoclassical house also has a landscaped park and 18C gardens.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kewaaa
Gardens: Open daily from 9.30am. Closed late Oct–early Feb 4.15pm; Early Feb–Mar 5.30pm; Apr–late Aug 6.30pm (7.30pm Sat–Sun and bank hols). Late Aug–late-Oct 6pm. Palace: Open late Mar/early Apr–Sept 9.30am–5.30pm. Garden £16 (online £14.50) incl. Kew Palace. Guided tour (free) from Victoria Plaza 11am, noon, 1.30pm. jf.
The Royal Botanic Gardens, the finest in the land, are a wonderful place to visit at any time of year. However, this 300-acre/121ha garden is not just a pleasure garden but the offshoot of laboratories engaged in the identification and conservation of plants from every corner of the earth, for economic, medical and other purposes.
The gardens were begun in 1756 by Sir William Chambers. The same architect designed the Orangerya, the three small Classical temples and in 1761 the 163ft-/50m-high 10-storey Pagodaa. As the gardens grew, more buildings were added, notably Decimus Burton’s Palm Houseaa in 1848, which has recently been completely refurbished. In 1899 Burton completed the Temperate Housea, which contains camellias, rainforest and dragon trees. The Princess of Wales Conservatorya, a steel-and-glass diamond-shaped structure, boasts 10 different tropical habitats ranging from mangrove swamp to sand desert. Kew Gardens’ latest treat is the Treetop Walkway, which takes visitors 59ft/18m up in the air. Don’t leave without seeing the beautiful and fascinating, oft-overlooked Marianne North Gallerya; a Victorian treasure house of botanic art, opened in 1882. Also within the grounds, close to the river, stands Kew Palaceaa built for a London merchant in 1631. It was leased by George II for Queen Caroline in about 1730 and purchased by George III in 1781. The interior is that of a small late-18C country house.
/ Hampton Court Palace and Gardensaaa
East Molesey, Surrey. Palace: Open daily, 10am–6pm (4.30pm late-Oct–late-Mar). Closed 24–26 Dec. Guided tours (free). Chapel Royal: Open Mon–Sat most mornings, Sun 12.30–1.30pm. Grounds: Open daily 7am–dusk. All areas £16, child £8. Grounds free, Formal Gardens £5.20 (child free). Maze only, £4 (child £2.50). õ(£1–£1.50p per hr). j.f. t0844 482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk.
This magnificent Tudor palace was begun (1514–29) by Cardinal Wolsey, who rose to become one of the most powerful figures in the land under King Henry VIII. However, his great wealth and his failure to obtain papal approval for the king’s divorce angered the king, and when Wolsey died in disgrace in 1530, Henry appropriated the palace. He then enlarged it, including the splendid Great Hall with its hammerbeam roof, and lavishly transformed the chapel. The Astronomical Clock (in Clock Court), made in 1540, was brought here from St James’s Palace in the 19C.
In 1688 Wren rebuilt the east and south fronts, the State Apartments and the smaller royal apartments. These rooms were decorated with carvings by Grinling Gibbons and painted ceilings by Verrio. The apartments and rooms contain a superb collection of paintings and furniture, while the kitchens and the King’s Beer Cellars and the wine cellars offer a glimpse of life in Tudor times, all enhanced by costumed actors who interact with visitors. The gardensaaa as seen today are the results of various schemes. The famous triangular maze was planted in 1690. In 1768 under George III, Lancelot Capability Brown planted the Great Vinea, now a plant of remarkable girth which produces an annual crop of around 500–600 bunches of grapes.
Syon Parkaa
ÊGunnersbury then bus 237 or 267. Brentford. House: open mid-Mar–Oct Wed–Thu, Sun & bank hols 11am–5pm. Gardens: open daily 10.30am–5pm/dusk (winter, see website). £11; gardens and conservatory only £6. jõf. t020 8560 0882. www.syonpark.co.uk.
The 1st Earl of Northumberland remodelled this ancient house in 1762, commissioning Robert Adam, who richly ornamented and furnished it. A number of notable Stuart portraits by Van Dyck, Lely and others further embellish the interior. Lancelot Capability Brown re-designed the gardens and extended them to the river; two of his mulberry trees still survive and a vast rose garden is in bloom from May to August. The Great Conservatory, a beautiful semi-circular building with a central cupola and end pavilions, dates from 1827.
Ham Houseaa
NT. ÊRichmond then bus. Ham Street. House: Open early Mar–early Nov Sat–Thu and Good Fri noon–4pm (school hols daily noon–5pm). Garden: Open mid-Feb–early Nov Sun–Thu 11am–5pm/dusk (school hols daily), early Jan–early Feb & last 3 wks Nov weekends only. Gardens only, £4. jõf. t020 8940 1950.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ham-house.
This is an exquisite three-storey 17C brick house. Much of the original furnishing has survived and is lavish even by the standards of the age. The house is rich in ornate plasterwork on the ceilings and splendid carved wood panelling on the walls. The Great Staircase of 1637, built of oak around a square well and gilded, has a beautiful balustrade of boldly carved trophies of arms.
Richmondaa
Set around possibly the most beautiful “urban village” green in England, Richmond grew to importance between the 12C and the 17C as a royal seat. Today private houses stand on the site of Henry VII’s Royal Palace in which he died in 1509 (as did his granddaughter, Elizabeth I, in 1603). Among other fine Georgian houses in the “village” note the Maids of Honour Rowaa on the Green, built in 1724.
Climb Richmond Hill’s steep road, lined by 18C houses with balconied terraces, to enjoy the excellent views immortalised by artists such as Turner and Reynolds. At the top Richmond Parkaa (TYZ) is the largest of the Royal Parks and is known for its herds of red and fallow deer. From the top of Henry VIII’s Mound, near Pembroke Lodge and the Richmond Gate, on a clear day the panoramaaaa extends from Windsor Castle to St Paul’s Cathedral in The City.
NORTH
Kenwood Houseaa (The Iveagh Bequest)
EH. ÊArchway or Golders Green, then 210 bus. Hampstead Lane. House: open daily 11.30am–4pm. Closed 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec. Grounds: Open daily 8am–dusk. jõf, picnic area. t020 8348 1286. www.english-heritage.org.uk.
Set in leafy grounds beside Hampstead Heath, this is one of London’s outstanding country houses, remodelled by Robert Adam 1764–79. It reopened in late 2013 following major conservation and enhancement works. The richly decorated libraryaa is one of Adam’s great masterpieces. Kenwood also possesses superb paintings including a Rembrandt (Self Portrait in Old Age). Its lakeside summer concerts are a highlight of the northwest London social scene.
Berkshire
Windsor is synonymous with its castle, but there is more to the town than just one building. Windsor Great Park stretches out for miles beyond the castle and is a perfect place for summer walks and picnics.
= Population: 30,136 (including Eton).
T Michelin Map: Michelin Atlas p 20 or Map 504 S 29.
i Info: The Old Booking Hall, Windsor Royal Station, Thames Street. t01753 743 900. www.windsor.gov.uk.
Ñ Location: 23mi/37km due west of London. There are two stations, Windsor & Eton Riverside and Windsor & Eton Central, both centrally located, both with direct London services. The town comprises two main streets, Thames Street (by the castle) intersected by Peascod (“Pescot”) Street, opposite the castle gate,
/ Kids: Legoland.
TOWN
The network of old cobbled streets bordered by High Street, Castle Hill, Church Lane, Church Street and Albans Street, contains a number of fine 16C–18C timber-framed houses with oversailing upper floors rising to pointed gables.
The short High Street is distinguished by St John’s parish church, rebuilt in 1822, and the Guildhall, begun by Sir Thomas Fitch c.1637 and completed by Sir Christopher Wren in 1690.
WINDSOR CASTLEaaa
Open daily 9.45am–5.15pm (4.15pm Nov–Feb); subject to change at short notice, check before visiting; last entry 1hr 15min before closing. St George’s Chapel closed Sun. Changing of the Guard on alternate days Mon–Sat 11am (weather permitting). Closed 25–26 Dec and various days throughout year (see website). £17.75, £9.70 during closure of state apartments. Guided precincts tours (30min, free) daily at regular intervals. Aug–Sept only: ticket to inc. Round Tower tour, £25.25; to inc. Great Kitchen tour £23. j. t020 7766 7304. www.royalresidences.com.
England’s biggest castle is also the largest inhabited stronghold in the world and has been a favourite royal residence, frequently extended and rebuilt, since William the Conqueror first built a motte and bailey on the site c.1080.
Windsor Castle
© Alamer/Iconotec/Photononstop
A Bit of History
By 1110, the castle had become a royal lodge where Henry I held his first court. Henry II erected the first stone buildings between 1165 and 1179, constructing one range of royal apartments in the Upper Ward (to the east of the Round Tower) and one in the Lower Ward. Faced with rebellion by his sons he modernised the defences, rebuilding the earthen walls and wooden Round Tower in stone. Under Henry III (1216–72) this work was virtually completed. Edward III (1327–77) reconstructed the royal apartments for his newly founded Order of the Garter. Under Charles II the State Apartments were rebuilt in an ambitious renovation project which included the reconstruction of St George’s Hall and the King’s Chapel, in which the architect Hugh May concentrated on fitting out the interior in a manner fit for a king, insulating the rooms with oak panelling festooned with Grinling Gibbons carvings. However, the principal changes were made in the early-19C when George IV commissioned Sir Jeffry Wyatville as his architect; he built the machicolated walls and several towers, raised the massive Round Tower, giving the castle its famous outline, and remodelled the State Apartments, adding the Waterloo Chamber. This section was badly damaged by fire in 1992. The principal change under Queen Victoria was the addition of a private chapel in memory of Prince Albert, who died here on 14 December 1861. Queen Mary, wife of George V, carried out careful restoration work on the castle at the turn of the 20C century, and it became the childhood home of HRH the Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret during the Second World War, since which it has remained the royal family’s principal home. The Court is in official residence throughout April and for Ascot Week in June and the annual Garter Day ceremonies.
The impressive 213-ft/65m-tall tall Round Tower stands on the site of William I’s original fortress and houses the Royal Archives. In 2011 it was opened to the public for the first time for visitors to enjoy viewsaa of the castle the Great Park, the Thames Valley and the London skyline. Adjacent, the North Terrace (c.1570) affords viewsaa of Eton College and London.
Chapels
St George’s Chapelaaa
This great Perpendicular chapel was begun by Edward IV to replace the chapel of Henry III to the east which Edward III had enlarged and dedicated to his Most Noble Order of the Garter.
The slender clustered piers lead the eye to the crowning glory of the chapel, the lierne vault, rich with coloured bosses – completed in 1528. The blank panelling between the tall arcades and the clerestory windows is topped with smiling angels. The aisles are notable for their fan vaulting. The impressive Perpendicular west window depicts 75 figures mainly in early 16C-glass.
The ornate stallsaaa, abounding in misericords and other carvings, were built in 1478–85; the top tier, surmounted by a richly carved canopy, is for the Knights of the Garter. Edward III’s battle sword (6ft 8in/2m) is in the south chancel aisle. The glorious east window (30ft/9m high and 29ft/8.8m wide; 52 lights) commemorates Prince Albert (incidents from his life illustrated in the lower tier, below the Resurrection and the Adoration of the Kings).
Albert Memorial Chapel
The original chapel (1240) was given its magnificent Victorian embellishment by Sir George Gilbert Scott after the death of Albert and is a supreme example of the 19C revivalist age with Venetian mosaics, inlaid marble panels and statuary. Prince Albert’s tomb was later removed to Frogmore Mausoleum (Tsee Box, Frogmore House).
The Order of the Garter
The highest order of chivalry in the land is also the oldest to survive in the world. It was established by Edward III in 1348 when England was engaged in the Hundred Years War with France and may have been modelled on the legendary story of 5C King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table. It was to reward men who had shown valour on the battlefield, and also to honour those who manifested the idealistic and romantic concept of Christian chivalry. Tradition relates how at a ball celebrating the conquest of Calais in 1347, the king retrieved a fallen garter and returned it to its rightful owner, the young and beautiful Joan of Kent, Countess of Salisbury, with the words, “Honi soit qui mal y pense” (Shame on him who thinks evil of it) – the emblem and motto of the Order. A more likely derivation is a strap or sword-belt from a suit of armour to denote the bond of loyalty and concord.
State Apartmentsaa
Public Rooms
In the Waterloo Chamber hangs a series of portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of the monarchs and leaders involved in Napoleon’s final defeat. The Grand Reception Room features Gobelins tapestries and is decorated with gilt plasterwork, massive chandeliers and bronze busts. St George’s Hall hall was built by Edward III for the Knights of the Garter and the Baroque chapel was built for Charles II. The 700 past Garter Knights’ escutcheons are set in the panelling of the plaster ceiling. Note the award-winning octagonal Lantern Lobby, created after the fire in 1992.
The Queen’s Rooms
The Queen’s Guard Chamber leads into the panelled Queen’s Presence Chamber which, with the adjoining Queen’s Audience Chamber, is essentially unchanged since the time of Charles II. The Queen’s Drawing Room contains some of the earliest plate glass in England. Eight Van Dyck portraits hang in the ballroom while Holbeins hang in the drawing room.
The King’s Rooms
The King’s Drawing Room contains paintings by Rubens and his followers and Chinese porcelain. The King’s Bedchamber has a grandiose “polonaise” bed made for the visit by Emperor Napoleon III and his wife Eugénie in 1855. On the walls of the King’s Dressing Room are a number of masterpiecesaa by Dürer, Memling, Clouet, Holbein, Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Dyck. The King’s Dining Room retains much of the character it had under Charles II.
Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House
This fascinating miniature masterpiece, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, was presented to Queen Mary in 1924. Everything is exactly on a 1:12 scale – not only the furniture, but even the printed leather-bound books in the library, paintings and the cars in the garage.
WINDSOR PARKa
In the mid-18C George II charged his son, William Duke of Cumberland, with the task of organising the vast Windsor Forest, hunting ground of Saxon leaders and medieval knights. 4,800 acres/1,942ha of overgrown woodland were cleared and streams were diverted to drain the marshes into newly dug ponds, which eventually flowed into the especially created 130 acres/53ha of Virginia Water. George III continued this land reclamation work and established two farms.
The park is now divided into Home Park, which is private, and Great Park, most of which is public. A significant feature of the park is the Long Walk, a 3mi/5km avenue running south as far as the Copper Horse, an equestrian statue of George III. Under Charles II the avenue was planted with elm trees, in 1685, the year in which he died, but in 1945 the trees, which had fallen victim to Dutch Elm disease, had to be replaced by chestnuts and planes. Two former royal residences are tucked away in the park: Royal Lodge, used as a retreat by George IV and by the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, and Cumberland Lodge, where William Duke of Cumberland resided while redesigning the park. Smith’s Lawn is an area reserved for polo matches, and beyond it stretch the beautiful Valley Gardens. The Royal Mausoleum, Frogmore Garden, in Home Park was begun in 1862, the year after Prince Albert’s death, specifically so that Queen Victoria and Albert could be buried side by side. The rich interior reflects the Consort’s passion for the Italian Renaissance. Frogmore House (1684) is furnished largely with possessions accumulated by Queen Mary. Although it is no longer a royal residence, Frogmore House is still used by the Royal Family for entertaining (Tsee box).
ETON COLLEGEaa
10min on foot across Windsor Bridge. Visit by guided tour only, 2pm, 3.15pm on some Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun during term time, and daily during college hols. See website for details. £7.50. t01753 671 177. www.etoncollege.com/PublicVisits.aspx.
The most prestigious of all British schools, Eton was founded in 1440 by Henry VI to give free education to 70 poor scholars and choristers.
Henry then founded King’s College, Cambridge, so the boys could continue their education and it soon became fashionable for the nobility to send their sons to Eton.
The paved School Yard, centre of college life, is dominated by the 16C red-brick Lupton’s Tower on the east side. To the north is Lower School, the 15C brick building originally constructed by Henry VI to house the Scholars. Upper School on the west side was built in the 17C to accommodate the increasing number of boys. In the centre of the yard stands a 1719 bronze statue of the founder.
The College Chapelaa, built in 1449–82, is one of the best examples of Perpendicular architecture in England. The 15C wall paintingsa are also the finest in the country. The modern stained glass (Evie Holme, John Piper), and the tapestry reredos and panelling by William Morris from designs by Burne-Jones are notable. The brick Cloister Court dates back to Henry VI’s time. It contains the 15C College Hall where the “collegers” eat; in the undercroft is the Museum of Eton Life.
/ LEGOLAND WINDSORaa
Ñ2mi/3km SW of Windsor on the B 3022. Bus from Windsor town centre, by both railway stations. Open daily from 9.30am/10am mid-Mar/Apr–late Oct; closing times vary (see website). On the gate: £45.60, child £39; online, from £34.20, £29.25; jõf. t0871 2222 001. www.legoland.co.uk.
Millions of Lego building blocks are used to impressive effect in this landscaped theme park. Moving models and miniature European towns, 50+ theme park rides, attractions and live shows (geared for children up to the age of 12).
Frogmore House
The last resting place of both Victoria and Albert is the Frogmore Mausoleum. It is attached to Frogmore House, set in a very peaceful area of Home Park (the private part of Windsor Park) and renowned for its beautiful landscaped garden and 18C lake. The house also contains works of art by Queen Victoria and her children (house only open to group tours; mausoleum only open a few days each year, see www.royalresidences.com for details; £7.50; t020 7766 7305; www.royalcollection.org.uk).
„ STAY
w Top Tips – Staying in London can be very expensive. Consider bed and breakfasts (B&Bs) instead: London Bed and Breakfast Agency Ltd (t020 7586 2768 ; www.londonbb.com). Or check out no-frills budget chain hotels such as Premier Inn (www.premiertravelinn.com) and Travelodge (www.travelodge.co.uk). Beware that breakfast is not included in the room rate for many London hotels. Always check in advance.
MARYLEBONE
^ Hart House Hotel – Plan C2 51 Gloucester Place. ÊMarble Arch, t020 7935 2288. www.harthouse.co.uk. 15 rms. This charming Georgian townhouse was occupied by members of the French nobility during the French Revolution of 1789. For the last 35 years it has been owned and managed by the same family. Good location between Hyde Park and Regent’s Park.
^ St George Hotel – Plan C2. 49 Gloucester Place. ÊMarble Arch. t020 7486 8586. www.stgeorge-hotel.net. 19 rms. This historic townhouse, a short walk from Oxford Street and Baker Street, offers very comfortable period bedrooms and a warm welcome.
_Durrants – Plan C2. 26–32 George Street. ÊBond Street. t020 7935 8131. www.durrantshotel.co.uk. 92 rms. A London institution since 1790, Durrants guarantees a very British take on old-fashioned charm. Very pricey, so look for special offers.
COVENT GARDEN
^ The Fielding – Plan D2. 4 Broad Court, Bow Street. ÊCovent Garden. t020 7836 8305. www.thefieldinghotel.co.uk. Perhaps the main attraction of this comfortable (air-conditioned) period house is its location at the heart of Covent Garden, and free access to the area’s premier spa complex.
SOHO
_Hazlitt’s – Plan D2. 6 Frith Street . ÊTottenham Court Road. t020 7434 1771. www.hazlitts.co.uk. 22 rms. This small hotel at the heart of Soho is a Georgian-cum-Victorian gem full of character and luxurious antique fittings. Very expensive.
BLOOMSBURY
q Thanet Hotel – Plan D2. 8 Bedford Place. ÊRussell Square. t020 7636 2869. www.thanethotel.co.uk. 16 rms. Situated on a quiet Georgian terrace, near the British Museum, this simple cheerful good-value hotel is run by a friendly husband-and-wife team.
_The Academy – Plan D2. - 21 Gower Street. ÊGoodge Street. t020 7631 4115. www.theetoncollection.co.uk. 49 rms. Five Georgian townhouses make up this elegant luxurious four-star boutique hotel with private garden.
THE CITY
_The Rookery – Plan E2 - 12 Peter’s Lane. Cowcross Street.ÊBarbican. t020 7336 0931 - www.rookeryhotel.com - 32 rms. A sister hotel to Hazlitts (Tsee above) with the same mix of bohemian luxury and charm, located in trendy Clerkenwell.
SOUTHWARK
_Ibis Styles London Southwark Rose – Plan E3 – 43–47 Southwark Bridge Road. ÊLondon Bridge. t(020) 7015 1480. www.ibis.com. 114 rms. Impressive stylish modern minimalist hotel, near the Globe and Tate Modern. Prices inc Breakfast and unlimited internet access.
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
_Knightsbridge Green – Plan B3. 1159 Knightsbridge. ÊKnightsbridge. t020 7584 6274. www.knightsbridgegreenhotel.com. 16 rms. Luxury hotel, located in the heart of Knightsbridge, with light spacious, contemporary rooms.
SOUTH KENSINGTON
_ Citadines – Plan A3. 35a Gloucester Road. ÊGloucester Road. t0800 376 3898. www.citadines.com. 92 apts. Beautifully furnished, comprehensively equipped studios and apartments.
HYDE PARK
^ Gresham Hotel – Plan B2. 116 Sussex Gardens. ÊPaddington. t020 7402 2920. www.the-gresham-london.co.uk - 57rms Location (close to the major museums) and value are the selling points for this simple but comfortable central London hotel.
^ The Rockwell – Plan A3. 181–183 Cromwell Road. ÊEarl’s Court. t020 7244 2000. www.therockwell.com. 40 rms. Elegant contemporary and traditional English style mix at this Kensington hotel with a large south-facing landscaped garden. Garden rooms available.
BELGRAVIA
^ B&B Belgravia – Plan C3. 64–66 Ebury Street. ÊVictoria. t020 7259 8570. www.bb-belgravia.com. 17 rms . Stylish up-to-the-minute boutique accommodation in a historic Georgian townhouse. Full English organic breakfasts.
ƒ EAT
w Top Tips – London’s cosmopolitan character is typified by its huge range of places to eat and its global range of cuisines. For lunch, you’ll have no trouble finding something decent to eat on the run; high-quality sandwiches, bagels, soups, noodles… whatever you fancy!
WESTMINSTER
^ Cinnamon Club – Plan D3. The Old Westminster Library, Great Smith Street. Ê St James’s Park. t020 3355 0249. www.cinnamonclub.com. Closed Sun and hols. This stylish upmarket Anglo-Indian restaurant is set in the atmospheric surrounds of Old Westminster Library.
^ Inn the Park – Plan D3. St James’s Park. Ê St James’s Park. t020 7451 9999. www.innthepark.com. Set in the middle of St James’s Park, Oliver Peyton‘s eco-friendly restaurant enjoys a terrific terrace. The British menu uses many small suppliers, cooking is straightforward and wholesome.
MAYFAIR
. Chada Chada – Plan C2. 16-17 Picton Place. ÊBond Street. t020 7935 8212. www.chadathai.com. Closed Sun and hols. One of the best budget Thai restaurants in town, this elegant little place serves traditional favourites, alongside original recipes.
PICADILLY
. Il Baretto at Alloro – Plan C2. 19–20 Dover Street. ÊGreen Park. t020 7495 4768. www.atozrestaurants.com/alloro. Closed Sun. Keeping to a simple formula of seasonal Italian favourites – all pastas and breads are made on the premises – this is the informal bar area of one of London’s best Italian restaurants
^ Benihana – Plan C2. 37 Sackville Street. ÊPiccadilly Circus. t020 7494 2525. www.benihana.co.uk. The Japanese food is good here but the “show cooking”, with ingredients flamboyantly prepared and served in front of diners on a hibachi hot plate, is what most customers come for.
COVENT GARDEN
^ Rules – Plan D2 - 35 Maiden Lane - ÊCharing Cross/Covent Garden - t020 7836 5314 - www.rules.co.uk. London’s oldest restaurant (est 1798) specialises in atmosphere and hearty traditional British cooking.
SOHO
^ Dehesa – Plan C2. 25 Ganton Street, ÊOxford Circus. t020 7494 4170. www.dehesa.co.uk. Closed Sun evening. This calm charcuterie and tapas bar takes inspiration from Spain and Italy, and boasts an impressive wine list.
TEMPLE
q The White Swan – Plan E2. 108 Fetter Lane. ÊTemple. t020 7242 9696. www.thewhiteswanlondon.com. Closed weekends. Just off Fleet Street this new gastropub serves traditional and modern English dishes, in a very smart dining room above the pub.
REGENT’S PARK
. The Sea Shell – Plan C1. 49–51 Lisson Grove. ÊMarylebone. t020 7224 9000. www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk. Closed Sun. One of London’s best fish and chip places with a smart traditional black-and-white dining room to save your fingers getting messy. Ideal after a day at Regent’s Park/London Zoo.
q–^ Villandry – Plan C2. 170 Great Portland Street. ÊRegent’s Park. t020 7631 3131. www.villandry.com. Closed Sun evening. This all-day French restaurant, café, foodshop, bakery and bar (all under one roof) is as good for a quick takeaway as it is for a full-blown elegant classic French dinner.
^ Le Coq d’Argent – Plan F2. 1 Poultry. ÊBank. t020 7395 5000. www.coqdargent.co.uk. Closed Sat lunch, Sun evening and hols. At the heart of The City, this vast sixth-floor restaurant features one of the most remarkable roof gardens in London with a wonderful view from its terrace. Classic French menu with contemporary flavours.
TOWER BRIDGE
q The Blueprint Cafe – Plan G3. Design Museum building, Shad Thames, ÊTower Bridge. t020 7378 7031. www.blueprintcafe.co.uk. Closed Sun evening. This long-standing restaurant enjoys a classy location among the converted warehouses of Butler’s Wharf. Superb riverside views complement excellent Modern British cuisine. (w the museum and Blueprint Cafe are moving to Kensington High Street in 2015).
^ Le Pont de la Tour – Plan F3 - Butlers Wharf . ÊTower Bridge t020 7403 8403. www.lepontdelatour.co.uk. This elegant establishment, serving fine French cuisine, is a favourite for business and pleasure with a riverside terrace and perfect views of Tower Bridge. Try its Bar & Grill (q) for a less formal meal.
^ Butlers Wharf Chop House – Plan F3 Butlers Wharf. ÊTower Bridge. t020 7403 3403. www.chophouse-restaurant.co.uk. Classic down-to-earth British food, such as chops and steaks and a famous steak and kidney pudding are the signature dishes at this wood-panelled restaurant by the Thames which evokes the style of a boating or cricket pavilion. Great views of Tower Bridge from its terrace.
SOUTHWARK
q Anchor & Hope – Plan E3. 36 The Cut. ÊSouthwark. t020 7928 9898. www.charleswells.co.uk. Mon lunch and Sun. One of London’s best gastropubs, serving its own original unfussy take on Modern and traditional British cuisine. No bookings taken so arrive early.
q Cantina Vinopolis – Plan F2. 1 Bank End. ÊSouthwark. t020 7940 8333. www.cantinavinopolis.com. There’s a wide choice of menus in this “shrine to wine” (part of visitor attraction, Vinopolis), tucked away under massive Victorian arches beside the Thames in handsome brick-vaulted dining rooms.
SOUTH BANK
^ Oxo Tower – Plan E2. Oxo Tower Wharf, 8th floor. Barge House Street. ÊSouthwark. t020 7803 3888. www.harveynichols.com/restaurants. Magnificent views of the capital across the Thames are complemented. by fine pan-Asian and Modern British cuisine. On the same level, the Oxo Tower Brasserie is cheaper but with equally fine views and excellent cooking.
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
. Le Metro – Plan B3. 28 Basil Street - ÊKnightsbridge. t020 7589 6286. www.thelevinhotel.co.uk. Near Harrods, this modern bistro breaks no new ground with its menu but is ideal for a shoppers’ lunch or afternoon tea.
SOUTH KENSINGTON
q–^ Racine – Plan B3. 93 Brompton Road. ÊSouth Kensington. t020 7584 4477. www.racine-restaurant.com. This classic brasserie evokes a typical French neighbourhood restaurant: expect filet au poivre, lapin à la moutarde, tête de veau, soupe de poisson, and good-value prix-fixe menus.
CHELSEA
q Pig’s Ear – Plan B4. 35 Old Church Street. ÊSloane Square. t020 7352 2908. www.thepigsear.info. Tucked away between the King’s Road and the Thames, this smart gastropub offers British/French brasserie food, in the bar or in its two formal dining rooms.
_Bibendum – Plan B3. Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road. ÊSouth Kensington. t020 7581 5817. www.bibendum.co.uk. Housed in London’s finest Art Nouveau building and celebrating Michelin’s famous “Mr Bibendum”, this 20-year-old establishment serves consistently excellent classic French food with a strong British influence. Also in the building is the Oyster Bar, Crustacea Stall and a cafe.
_One-O-One – Plan C3. William Street. ÊKnightsbridge.t020 7290 7101. www.oneoonerestaurant.com. One of the country’s top seafood dining rooms, located at The Park Tower Knightsbrisge hotel. Only sustainable and farmed produce are used.
PUBS
Pubs usually open Mon.–Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm.
Anglesea Arms – Plan B4. 15 Selwood Terrace. ÊSouth Kensington. t020 8749 1291. www.capitalpubcompany.com. Set in a peaceful residential district, this is the ideal spot for a relaxing drink after a walk, particularly on the pretty outdoor terrace. The pub is also known for its excellent Modern British food, which can also be served on the terrace (q–^).
Dickens Inn – Plan G2. St Katharine Dock. ÊTower Hill. t020 7488 2208. www.dickensinn.co.uk. Although it may look older, this rambling Dickens-themed pub, looking onto St Katherine Docks, only opened in 1976. Its restaurant is famous for its huge “Beast” pizzas serving five people at a time; its generous servings of pasta are also recommended.
George Inn – Plan F3. 77 Borough High Street. ÊLondon Bridge. t020 7407 2056. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/george-inn London’s last galleried inn, dating from the 17C, is such a treasure that the National Trust now cares for it, though it still functions as it has since Shakespeare’s time. The Bard may well have performed in the original George Inn (which burned down in 1676) and Dickens mentions the present inn in Little Dorrit.
The Bunch of Grapes – Plan B3. 207 Brompton Road. ÊKnightsbridge. t020 7589 4944. www.traditionalpubslondon.co.uk/bunchofgrapes. Just a few yards from Harrods, this classic Victorian pub is perfect for a relaxing drink after shopping. Note the remarkable carved wooden bunch of grapes bar partition.
The Nag’s Head – Plan C3. 53 Kinnerton Street. ÊKnightsbridge. t020 7235 1135. Stepping into “the Nag’s” is rather like walking into an old movie, with its small cosy rooms full of bric-a-brac from yesteryear. Mobile phones are banned!
Ye Grapes – Plan C3. 16 Shepherd Market. ÊGreen Park, Hyde Park Corner. t020 7493 4216. This charming late-19C pub is tucked away in an alleyway in village-like Shepherd Market. Upstairs is a restaurant serving British and Thai food.
CAFÉS
Café in the Crypt – Plan D2. ÊTrafalgar Square. ÊLeicester Square, Charing Cross. t020 7766 1158. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Located in the crypt of St Martin-in-the-Fields church, this self-service cafe serves good value snacks and light meals. Live jazz each Wed (tickets required after 6.30pm).
Fortnum and Mason’s – Plan C2. 181 Piccadilly. ÊPiccadilly Circus. www.fortnumandmason.co.uk. Founded in 1707, London’s world-famous grocery shop boasts several restaurants. The most popular are the affordable Fountain, and the more expensive and chic The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon (t0845 602 5694), both of which feature a pianist. Afternoon tea can be taken in both (t0845 602 5694).
Garden Café – Plan C1. Queen Mary’s Gardens, Inner Circle. ÊRegent’s Park, Baker Street. t020 7034 0722. www.companyofcooks.com. Open 9am–8pm; winter 9am–6pm. Simple but stylish café in elegant Regent’s Park, serving high-quality teas, coffees, lunch and evening meals in summer.
Harrods – Plan B3. 87–135 Brompton Road. ÊKnightsbridge. www.harrods.com. Open Mon–Sat 10am–9pm, Sun 11.30am–6pm. The most famous shop in town includes some 30 restaurants and cafés: from sushi and seafood in their fabulous Food Hall, self-service to traditional afternoon tea in The Tea Room or on Harrods Terrace.
Harvey Nichols – Fifth Floor Café – Plan C3. 109–125 Knightsbridge. ÊKnightsbridge. t020 7823 1839. www.harveynichols.com. Knightsbridge shopping regulars appreciate this bright, light spacious café-bar, complete with open-plan-style kitchen and roof terrace. There’s also a very chic restaurant and a champagne bar on the same floor.
Window shopping is all part of the fun in London, particularly in stores like Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Selfridges which are renowned for their displays. For many people however the famous end of year sales (late Dec to mid-Jan) are worth the trip alone.
w Top Tip– Museum shops are a great source of inspiration when it comes to unusual gifts and souvenirs; try the British Museum, the Science Museum, the Natural History Museum, London Transport Museum…
Shopping Areas
Around Covent Garden (www.coventgardenlife.com; www.coventgardenlondonuk.com) you’ll find all kinds of shops selling unusual gifts, fashion and perfumes. Don’t miss Penhaligon’s, at no. 41 Wellington Street). In The Market Peter Rabbit and Friends (no. 42) delights little ones.
In St James’s, Jermyn Street is the place for classic gentlemen’s fashion. Cheese lovers should follow their noses to no. 93, the home of Paxton & Whitfield for their wonderful Stiltons, Cheddars and many more cheeses from Britain (and beyond).
In Mayfair, Burlington Arcade and Old Bond Street specialise in many of the world’s most exclusive fashion brands. Sloane Street in Knightsbridge is also synonymous with expensive designer shopping. Sloane Street joins Sloane Square at Chelsea, famous for the King’s Road and its many one-off fashion shops. In The City, the old Royal Exchange building is home to several upmarket shops.
MARKETS
Portobello Road – Plan A2. Portobello Road. ÊNotting Hill Gate. www.portobelloroad.co.uk. On Saturdays the world’s largest antique market is held; the rest of the week, antique shops, galleries, and all kinds of specialists and dealers in collectibles flourish here.
Borough Market – Plan F3. Stoney Street, Borough High Street. ÊLondon Bridge. www.boroughmarket.org.uk. Open Wed–Thu 10am–5pm, Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 8am–5pm; partially open Mon–Tue 10am–5pm t020 7407 1002; www.boroughmarket.org.uk. London’s oldest and finest food market delights both foodies (including some of the capital’s top restaurateurs) and passing tourists. At some stalls you can sit down to eat, and there are established bona-fide cafes and restaerants here too.
BOOKS AND READING
Waterstone’s Booksellers – Plan D2. 203–206 Piccadilly. ÊPiccadilly Circus. t0843 290 8549. www.waterstones.com. Occupying six floors of a lovely 70-year–old building, Waterstone’s is the biggest bookshop in Europe. This is also the place to come for a comprehensive selection of foreign newspapers and magazines.
HOME FURNISHING
The Conran Shop Chelsea, Michelin House – Plan B3 – 81 Fulham Road. ÊSouth Kensington. t020 7589 7401. www.conranshop.co.uk. Housed in the former UK headquarters of Michelin, and still boasting its famous stained-glass Bibendum windows, style-guru Terence Conran presents the very best in contemporary home fashion, for both Londoners and visitors.
TEA
Twinings & Co – Plan E2. 216 Strand. ÊTemple. t020 7353 3511. www.twinings.co.uk. Closed Sun. Established in 1717, this is the oldest tea shop in the world, and sells hundreds of varieties of tea in all flavours and packages. There is a small museum at the back of the shop.
TOYS AND GAMES
Hamley’s – Plan C2. 188–196 Regent Street. ÊOxford Circus. t0871 704 1977. www.hamleys.co.uk. The world’s most famous toyshop is six levels of heaven for children, though beware, it can be unbearably crowded and stressful for parents, particularly at peak periods.
ENTERTAINMENT
The capital’s most famous theatres, cinemas and concert halls tend to congregate around Leicester Square, Piccadilly (particularly Shaftesbury Avenue) and Covent Garden. Some of London’s most famous West End musicals have been running for over 20 years.
Even if you don’t really understand all the language it’s well worth attending a Shakespeare play at the beautifully rebuilt Globe Theatre, just to experience what it was like in those days (Tsee p169). London also has great concert halls and it’s always worth noting what’s on at the Barbican, the Royal Albert Hall and the Southbank Centre (Royal Festival Hall, Hayward Gallery, Queen Elizabeth Hall, Purcell Room).
w The best listings and reviews of all shows and events in town are in Time Out magazine every Tuesday (www.timeout.com/london), and The London Evening Standard, (www.thisislondon.co.uk), published daily. Both are free; pick up Time Out at tube stations, and selected retailers, museums, cafes and galleries, the Evening Standard is given away at mainline and tube stations.
TICKETS
The simplest way of buying tickets for any show is at the box office. Alternatively you can telephone or buy online, though there is a surcharge (of up to 10 percent).
Ticketmaster – 48 Leicester Square. t0844 277 4321; 0044 161 385 3211 (from abroad www.ticketmaster.co.uk).
TKTS Leicester Square – Plan D2. Leicester Square. ÊLeicester Square. open Mon–Sat 9am–7pm for matinée and evening shows, Sun 11am–4.30pm. t020 7557 6700. www.tkts.co.uk. Formerly known as the Half-Price Ticket Booth, and (still) operated by the Society of London Theatres (SOLT), this kiosk offers the best seats in London’s theatres at half the normal price, plus a £3 “booking fee” per ticket. They are only valid for that day and are first come first served. You can pay by cash or credit card (surcharge for the latter); tickets are non-returnable and are limited to four per person.
wBeware of half-price tickets imitators also located in Leicester Square. You can also book tickets for the theatre, and for many other events, through the official channels, online at www.visitlondon.com.
EVENTS
w For more details on any of the events below visit www.visitlondon.com/events/calendar
New Year’s Day Parade (1 Jan ) More than 10,000 performers in fancy dress parade through central London. www.londonparade.co.uk.
Chinese New Year (late Jan–mid Feb) The largest Chinese New Year celebrations outside Asia take place in London’s Chinatown. www.chinatownlondon.org.
Head of the River Race (Mar) Some 400 eight-man crews from around the globe take to the Thames in one of the capital’s longest-running sporting traditions. www.horr.co.uk.
The Boat Race (Apr) The crews of Oxford University and Cambridge University compete, from Putney to Mortlake, in one of the world’s oldest sporting events. www.theboatrace.org.
Chelsea Flower Show (May) The world’s greatest flower show in the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea. www.rhs.org.uk.
Trooping the Colour (2nd/3rd Sat Jun)
Pomp and pageantry at the Queen’s official birthday parade on Horse Guards Parade. www.army.mod.uk/events.
Wimbledon (last wk Jun– 1st wk Jul) The world’s finest Lawn Tennis Championships. www.wimbledon.com.
The BBC Proms (mid-Jul–1st wk Sept) The Royal Albert Hall is the venue for a world-beating series of classical concerts. www.bbc.co.uk/proms.
Notting Hill Carnival (last weekend Aug) Europe’s largest carnival celebrations is a blaze of colour and music. www.nottinghill-carnival.co.uk.
The Lord Mayor’s Show (Nov) Over 6,000 colourful participants show off London’s history and cultural diversity. www.lordmayorsshow.org.
Christmas Lights (Dec) Illuminations and dressed shop windows on Regent Street (www.regentstreetonline.com) and Oxford Street (www.oxfordstreet.co.uk); and an enormous Christmas tree in Trafalgar Square.
