Caernarfon Castle, North Wales
© Ivan Vdovin / age fotostock
Canterbury Cathedral, Kent
© Eurasia Press / Photononstop
WHAT'S HOT
– In 2014, Glasgow (see p513) hosts Scotland's biggest ever sporting and cultural celebration at the Commonwealth Games, late July to early August.
– The same year, Scotland (see p492) has a referendum on independence from the rest of the UK… and the Ryder Cup.
– The Imperial War Museum, London (see p171) re-opens July 2014 with major new galleries to mark the nationwide centenary commemorations of the First World War.
– In Liverpool (see p415), the UK Biennial of Contemporary Art opens from 5 July to 26 October.
– In Manchester (see p408), the Whitworth Art Gallery and Central Library will reopen as the city’s latest cultural hotbeds.
– At Stonehenge (see p241), a long-awaited and much anticipated Visitor Centre finally opened in December 2013.
– In 2014, Yorkshire (see p442) will host the early stages of the Tour de France. Grand Départ Leeds 5 July.
– In 2017 Kingston-upon-Hull (see p465) will be UK Capital of Culture.
Glen Docherty, near Kinlochewe, Highlands,Scotland
© Robert Harding / Photononstop
The great thing about the cities below is their individuality and local character. Each is recommended not only for its respective historic sights, vernacular architecture and cultural treasure houses, but for the insight it gives into the character of the nation. Of course there are chain stores, chain restaurants and chain cafes (even chain pubs) but stroll straight past them and eat, drink and explore like a local in your city of choice.
BATH TSee p286
England’s most complete and most beautiful Georgian metropolis is also its most elegant small city. Enjoying a picturesque natural setting, it houses the country’s best preserved Roman Baths and a superb new thermo-mineral spa, but it is the lovely 18C golden stone crescents and terraces so beloved of Jane Austen, and its individuality (of housing, shopping…) that leave the lasting impression.
BIRMINGHAM TSee p390
Britain’s second city – in numbers, if not visitor importance – is today a hotbed of shopping and is fast becoming an important European business and cultural centre. By night the world-class Royal Ballet and City Symphony Orchestra entertain, while by day there are some of Britain’s finest contemporary and historic buildings, galleries and industrial heritage attractions to enjoy.
BRISTOL See p280
Bristol made its fortune from maritime mercantile trade and with the redevelopment of its docks once again looks to the sea. The city also boasts a potent mix of Georgian beauty, as exemplified by the suburb of Clifton (also boasting Britain’s most breathtaking bridge), and a vibrant Bohemian contemporary art and music and art scene; its best known son being Banksy.
CAMBRIDGE TSee p338
England’s archetypal small University town, with the magnificent Gothic 15C King’s College Chapel at its heart, Cambridge is smaller and more intimate than Oxford but shares the same icons of students on bicycles, and punting on the river. Its venerable colleges and libraries (open to the public) are remarkable as much for their architecture and appearance, as for the priceless treasures they guard.
CARDIFF TSee p560
Once the busiest port in the world, Cardiff grew rich on the country’s legendary coal and iron industries. But, during the 20C, as these declined, so did Cardiff, and its docks – one of the largest systems in the world became moribund. Today, the port is busy again (albeit a shadow of its glory days), and in a remarkable turnaround, the waterfront has been turned to leisure use and government purposes with some striking buildings.
EDINBURGH TSee p502
The perfect introduction to Scotland, Edinburgh is arguably the most beautiful city in the UK. It enjoys not only a wonderful natural setting, but offers a picture-book history lesson from medieval Old Town to Georgian New Town, best taken in from a series of spectacular vantage points that no other city can match.
GLASGOW TSee p513
Edinburgh may be Scotland’s picture-postcard city but in terms of arts and culture, world-class museums,
stylish places to eat and stay, and some of the best shopping in the UK, Glasgow is every bit the equal. And for sheer down-to-earth 'Scottishness', it is the nation’s number one.
LIVERPOOL TSee p415
This once-great Victorian city and port grew dizzy with Beatlemania in the 1960s but by the 1980s had plummeted into economic and civil despair. Reinvestment in its waterfront and a massive cultural boost paid dividends in the 1990s and the city became European Capital of Culture in 2008. Its most priceless asset however is its people whose humorous self-effacing, yet proud outlook, lives long in visitors’ memories.
LONDON TSee p148
Britain’s most iconic city is laden with landmarks, imagery and culture, instantly recognisable all over the world. Begin your great British odyssey here, and allow at least three days to even scratch the surface of its myriad attractions and its vibrant all-encompassing entertainment scene. Like most major capitals, it is always fascinating, often frantic and largely atypical of the country in general. To experience the 'real' atmosphere of Britain, you’ll need to explore outside its boundaries.
TOURIST OFFICES
Visit Britain (www.visit.britain.com), formerly known as the British Tourist Authority provides assistance in planning a trip to Great Britain and an excellent range of brochures and maps. It works in cooperation with the three National Tourist Boards (for England, Wales and Scotland), the Regional Tourist Boards and other tourist organisations.
The official national websites are also very useful:
USA – 551 5th Avenue, Suite 701, New York, NY 1017, t212-986-1188 / 625 North Michigan Avenue, Suite 1001, IL 60611, Chicago, t312-787-0464 / 10880 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 570, CA 90024, Los Angeles, t310 470 2782.
CANADA – 5915 Airport Road, Suite 120, Mississauga, L4V 1T1, Ontario, t905-405-1720.
AUSTRALIA – Level 2, 15 Blue Street, North Sydney, NSW 2060. t2 90 21 44 00
NZ – 17th Floor, 151 Queen Street, Auckland 1, t09 309 1899.
TOURIST INFORMATION
There are tourist information centres in all parts of the country with information on sightseeing, accommodation, places to eat, transport, entertainment, sports and local events. They are usually well signposted, but some are open only during the summer season; the address and telephone number of the local tourist office can be found in sidebars throughout this guide.
MANCHESTER TSee p408
One of England’s great mercantile Georgian and Victorian cities, and capital of the North, Manchester’s fame is largely thanks to football (soccer). Its music and nightlife scene is also highly rated and it is a measure of the city’s present cultural significance that in 2012 the BBC relocated en masse to Manchester, or more precisely to its buzzing new docklands area, Salford Quays.
NEWCASTLE TSee p478
Britain's best-loved sculpture, Angel of the North, welcomes visitors to Newcastle-upon-Tyne and its dramatic riverside site. Rich history and the distinctive dialect spoken by its population of 'Geordies' give this undisputed capital of the northeast of England an exceptionally strong identity. Despite recent decline, the city retains great vigour as a commercial, educational, entertainment, shopping and cultural centre. As the Guggenheim is to Bilbao, the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Arts and The Sage music venue are powerful symbols of the city’s new cultural ambitions.
OXFORD TSee p260
The city of Oxford is famous as the home of England’s oldest university. Its romantic townscape of “dreaming spires” and mellow ancient golden Cotswold stone buildings, buzzes with students on bicycles, or punting on the river. For decades it has been the perfect setting for quintessential English fiction. Like Cambridge, its venerable colleges and libraries (open to the public) are remarkable as much for their architecture and appearance, as for the priceless treasures they hold.
YORK TSee p458
Tourist capital of the north, York is famous for its Minster – arguably the finest building in England. It also boasts the world’s finest railway museum (one of the finest visitor attractions in the country), but it is the very fabric of this walled city, with its important Roman remains and hundreds of well preserved medieval and Georgian houses, squeezed into tiny lanes and narrow, cobbled alleyways, that draw so many visitors to this characterful city.
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Glasgow
© Kaos / Sime / Photononstop
Britain is blessed with more historic properties – castles, palaces, mansions, stately homes and gardens – that are open to the public, than any other country in the world. Moreover the standard of interpretation and what’s on offer these days is higher than ever before. Hushed reverential visits standing behind red ropes are a thing of the past; today you are more likely to chat with a colourful costumed character from the property’s past, or be able to rent a room and live like a duke and duchess for a night.
CASTLES
Britain’s castles are among the finest in the world, with intact fortresses spanning over 800 years, from Windsor Castle (c 1080) to Castle Drogo (begun 1910). Many ruins go back much further. The apogee of castle building was the late 13C and the finest examples are in Wales; in Scotland, travel to the Grampians.
1. Caernarfon Castle (see p575) – was constructed not only as a military stronghold but also as a seat of government and a royal palace, with a striking riverside location.
2. Leeds Castle see 195 – “The loveliest castle in the world” lives up to its hype with a picturebook setting on two islands in a lake, sumptuous interiors and glorious grounds.
3. Stirling Castle see 521 – Similar to Edinburgh Castle in style and location, but without the crowds, it boasts magnificent Renaissance decoration and beautifully refurbished royal apartments.
4. Warwick Castle (see p380) – Britain’s favourite medieval castle has beautiful riverside grounds and is busy all year round with lavish interpretations of its colourful past.
5. Windsor Castle (see p180) – A castle fit for Royalty, which it has been for over 900 years, with magnificent apartments, chapel and a 'Changing of the Guard', without the crowds that swarm around Buckingham Palace in London.
CATHEDRALS
Britain’s cathedrals are not only amazing architectural achievements and repositories of centuries of local and national history, but retain their original function as spiritual retreats. Moving with the times however, many now feature visitor centres, refectory cafes, exhibitions, and cathedral tours.
1. Canterbury Cathedral (see p196) – Britain’s most famous medieval shrine still attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors per year. Don’t miss the atmospheric crypt.
2. Durham Cathedral (see p474) – The great sandstone mass of the Norman cathedral rising above the deep wooded gorge of the River Wear is a sublime fusion of architecture and landscape.
3. St Paul’s Cathedral (see p166) – Wren’s masterpiece and last resting place is the apogee of English Baroque church architecture. The views from the Whispering Galleries are breathtaking.
4. Westminster Abbey (see p157) – The coronation hall and national pantheon of royalty, statesmen, poets, writers and other heroes, features magnificent monuments and stunning architecture.
5. York Minster (see p458) – The largest Gothic church north of the Alps is world famous for its stained glass; watch the glaziers restoring it and also climb the tower.
Britain’s oldest monuments predate the Pyramids of Egypt. In England, Wiltshire boasts Stonehenge and Avebury, in Scotland the Orkneys and Shetlands are rich in prehistoric remains, and almost anywhere off the beaten track in Wales, Scotland and Cornwall you may stumble upon dolmens and standing stones.
1. Avebury (see p242) – Here you can go right up to the giant standing stones (up to 40 tons), and there’s a pretty village around them too.
2. Callanish (Calanais) Standing Stones (see p548) – 'Scotland’s Stonehenge', is contemporary to the English monument and scores high on atmosphere thanks to its remote location and lack of crowds
3. Jorvik (see p462) – Step into a 'Time Capsule' to travel back to October 948 and learn all about the Vikings in York, or Jorvik ('Yor-vik') as they called this important trading base.
4. Mousa Broch (see p550) – Dating from the 1st or 2nd century AD, and still standing over 43ft/13m, this is the finest surviving Iron Age broch (fortified farm) tower.
5. Stonehenge (see p241) – Most famous of all, the meaning of Stonehege may never be deciphered but at last its visitor facilities have been brought into the 21C.
STATELY HOMES
The houses of the British aristocracy, complete with reminders of the old class system and 'Upstairs/Downstairs' lifestyle, feed not the UK TV schedules and the imaginations of visitors. The finest are comparable to – or even grander than – Britain’s royal palaces.
1. Blenheim Palace (see p265) – Vanbrugh’s dramatic innovative palatial Baroque masterpiece is matched by Capability Brown’s sublime landscaping achievement.
2. Castle Howard (see p464) – Made famous by Brideshead Revisited, this is another Vanbrugh triumph of architecture and landscaping.
3. Chatsworth House (see p398) – 'The second Versailles', set in glorious grounds, amid magnificent countryside, not only features one of Europe’s outstanding private art collections, but is also one of Northern England's best family days out
4. Longleat House see 238– One of Britain’s best examples of High Elizabethan architecture, surrounded by an African safari park, Britain’s best mazes and more.
5. Waddesdon Manor (see p254) – The perfect French Renaissance chateau in lush parkland, complete with its world-class Rothschild art, furniture, porcelain and carpets collections.
Leeds Castle
© Amra/Bigstockphoto.com
The world’s Industrial Revolution began in the dark Satanic mills of Ironbridge and was refined in the rest of Britain. See not just how things were made (or mined) but who made them, and how they toiled under often extreme conditions.
1. Big Pit (see p563) and the National Coal Mining Museum for England – Go underground at both sites to understand the history and sacrifices of British miners.
2. Black Country Living Museum (see p395) – Costumed actors present the everyday life of a typical mid-19C Black Country coal-mining village, with some 50 reconstructed building and a pit head.
3. Ironbridge (see p386) – The most comprehensive complex of its kind in the world, this fascinating World Heritage site explores early heavy industries, as well as artisan crafts, in sylvan Shropshire surroundings.
4. Llechwedd Slate Caverns (see p581) – Dive into the Welsh hillside aboard a small train, see skilled slate splitters at work and get a taste of early-20C village life.
5. Geevor Tin Mine (see p331) – Still in commercial use until 1990, this is the largest preserved mining site in the UK, with a guided underground tour through 18C and 19C workings.
ROMAN BRITAIN
What did the Romans ever do for us? Although little survives of most major public projects, enough remains to paint a vivid picture of life in this Northern outpost of Empire, which began in 55BC with the arrival of Julius Caesar and ended c. AD 410 with the departure of the legions.
1. Chedworth Roman Villa (see p270) – One of the largest Romano-British villas in the country, with fine examples of mosaics and bathhouses.
2. Fishbourne Roman Palace (see p210) – The largest Roman home in Britain, boasting the biggest collection of mosaics still in situ in the UK.
3. Hadrian’s Wall (see p482) – Several museums and interpretations of camps and settlements still located on the wall tell us what military and civilian life was like on Rome’s physical northwest frontier, separating Caledonia (Scotland) from the rest of Britannia.
4. Roman Baths, Bath (see p286) – A fascinating lesson in how the Romans brought their bathing traditions to Britain, brilliantly told, in spectacular surroundings.
5. Yorkshire Museum (see p463) – many of the country’s finest Roman artefacts illustrate the grandeur of life in the Roman capital of Eboracum (York).
Hadrian’s Wall, Northumberland
© Russel Kord / Photononstop
Royal Pavilion Brighton
© diwat26 / SXC
VILLAGE LIFE
The quintessential English village features a green – ideally with a duck pond – surrounded by pub, post office, church and a mix of thatched and timbered houses. Even in 21C England many villages are still like this. There are however many other fascinating variations on the theme.
1. Bibury (see p269) – A Cotswolds picture postcard of river, stone bridges, weavers’ cottages, Bibury Court and a wooded background.
2. Chipping Campden (see p272) – A perfectly harmonious mellow limestone High Street, late medieval houses and a monumental 'wool church'.
3. Clovelly (see p318) – This striking Mediterranean-style white village, where donkeys and mules are still the only form of transport, tumbles steeply down to the sea.
4. Lacock (see p244) – The National Trust own this four-street stone-and brick village, which has provided a film set for numerous period TV dramas and movies, including two Harry Potter films.
5. Portmeirion (see p582) – 'The Village' is a fantasy Italianate ensemble in a glorious seaside setting, made famous by the cult TV series The Prisoner.
ROYAL REALM
Love them or leave them, and most visitors to the UK fall firmly into the former category, there’s a never-ending fascination as to how the Royal Family – past and present – go (or went) about their daily and ceremonial lives.
1. Buckingham Palace (see p159) – Step inside the most famous address in Britain and gaze upon the treasures and trappings of its foremost family.
2. Hampton Court Palace & Gardens (see p178) – An evocative insight into the days of Henry VIII (among other monarchs) at Britain’s top Tudor palace, with superb interpretation and magnificent grounds.
3. Osborne House (see p226) – This was the favourite home of Queen Victoria for her family holidays and combines royal grandeur with domestic normality.
4. Royal Yacht Britannia (see p510) – Explore every detail of the surprisingly homely ship, which carried Queen Elizabeth II and her family around the world for 44 years on nearly one thousand official engagements.
5. Royal Pavilion Brighton (see p206) – This eye-popping Anglo-Indian confection is like no other royal palace you’ll ever see outside the sub-Continent.
Britain is as famous for its well-watered green and pleasant land as its love of horticulture, from classically landscaped parklands with grand vistas and curious follies, to intimate flower-filled gardens.
PARKS AND GARDENS
1. Abbey House Gardens (see p245) – If you think the gardens, in a picture-postcard setting beside Malmesbury Abbey, are stunning, wait until you see the Naked Gardeners, who tend them!
2. Eden Project (see p322) – This spectacular family-friendly 21C take on the old botanic garden is one of the world’s top eco attractions.
3. Glendurgan Garden (see p316) – Richly planted Cornish garden with subtropical trees and shrubs in a spectacular ravine location dropping down to the waterside.
4. Hidcote (see p272) – A labyrinth of 'garden rooms', some with unusual contents, creates an Alice-in-Wonderland effect at these much-loved Cotswold Gardens.
5. Inverewe (see p546) – In a magnificent coastal setting, these Gulf-Stream blessed gardens are in colour almost all year despite sharing the same latitude as St Petersburg.
6. Kew (Royal Botanic) Gardens (see p178) – The most famous gardens in Britain feature flowers and plants from every corner of the globe, many in stunning glasshouses.
7. Powis Castle Garden (see p573) – Laid out under the influence of Italian and French styles, this magnificent terraced garden steps down from a picturesque castle.
8. Stourhead (see p237) – A supreme example of English landscape style including a Palladian mansion, fine examples of garden architecture and rare planting.
9. Stowe Landsaped Gardens (see p255) – Stroll back into the 18C through a series of classic bucolic vistas dotted with lakes, bridges, monuments and grand follies.
10. Tresco Abbey Gardens (see p333) – Subtropical gardens in the Scilly Isles, which even at the winter equinox have over 300 plants in flower.
Eden Project, Cornwall
© Tamsyn Williams/Eden Project
While Britain's many formal parks and garden attractions will suit visitors who enjoy a stroll but still want their creature comforts to hand, hardier types who want to 'get away from it all' and be a bit more energetic, don’t need to go far either.
The first National Park was declared in the UK in 1951, the most recent in 2011. In total there are 15 parks, encompassing protected areas of mountains, meadows, moorlands, woods and wetlands, which anyone can visit, and where people live, work and still shape the landscape. Today, hundreds of thousands of visitors use the parks for walking, climbing, cycling, horse riding, canoeing and many other outdoor activities. All parks have visitor centres, which advise on a wide range of activities, from extreme sports (including local places to buy/hire equipment, local experts/guides etc) to 'soft adventures' and activities for all the family.
NORTHERN ENGLAND
Northumberland (see p485)
This is England’s most tranquil and least visited National Park, where hills and valleys stretch from Hadrian’s Wall to the Scottish border. A long-distance walk in the footsteps of the Roman legionnaires is a popular activity.
Lake District (see p430)
The largest, most picturesque and most eulogised of England’s national parks is also its most crowded at peak times (albeit only in certain 'honeypot' locations) and there are still many remote areas to be found year-round. Glacial action has created England’s highest mountain (Scafell Pike) and its deepest lake (Wastwater), while many charming villages have developed over the centuries to service this walkers’ paradise. The lakes are used for both watersports and gentle cruises.
Yorkshire Dales (see p451)
Famed for its walking and long-distance paths, approximately half of the Yorkshire Dales (valleys) National Park is made up of farmland. The other half is a dramatic landscape featuring limestone scenery with crags, caves, peaks, and swallow holes.
Yorkshire Moors (see p467)
Wilder and harsher in climate and terrain – which varies from high moorland to spectacular coast – than the Dales, the Yorkshire Moors is also known for its walking trails.
Peak District (see p374, 396)
Britain’s very first national park is the starting point for the 268-mile long Pennine Way. As well as long-distance walking, the park is famous for its many caves, with several showcaves open to visitors, while other are the preserve of speleologists.
SOUTHERN ENGLAND
Exmoor (see p319)
Moorland, where wild Red Deer and Exmoor Ponies roam, woodland, valleys and farmland, all make up this diverse landscape, which culminates in high cliffs that plunge into the Bristol Channel. Horseriding and mountain biking are popular.
Dartmoor (see p312)
Walking, cycling and horseriding are the top activities on this moorland, famous for its many ancient stones and Dartmoor Ponies. Letterboxing, the original form of geocaching, was invented on Dartmoor and is still popular (alongside the newfangled GPS-assisted version).
New Forest (see p230)
Despite the name, much of the central New Forest is open heather-covered heath, punctuated by attractive, historic villages, though there are also spectacular ancient and ornamental woodlands. Cycling and horse riding are the favourite activities with watersports on the river Beaulieu and at the coast.
South Downs (see p207)
This Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in southeast England is unique in that it includes towns and villages in its National Park boundaries. Much of it is gentle rolling countryside is easily explored by walking, cycling or horse riding.
Norfolk and Suffolk Broads (see p350)
Formed from lakes, marshes and flooded peat workings which offer 125mi (200km) of lock-free tidal rivers the main activity on the Broads is, naturally, boating.
SCOTLAND
Cairngorms (see p538)
This Scottish fastness is Britain’s last true wilderness. It includes its highest mountain range: its biggest native forests; sparkling rivers and lochs; and remote moorland and farmland. The UK’s premier ski resort, Aviemore, is the winter focus of activities. During the summer, climbing, mountain biking and walking take over.
Loch Lomond & the Trossachs (see p524)
The bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and the picture-postcard Trossachs countryside are perfect for walking, cycling (mountain biking is very popular) and watersports.
WALES
Snowdonia (see p580)
Snowdon is the tallest mountain in England and Wales and presides over the most spectacular scenery south of Scotland. However, while anyone of reasonable fitness can ascend Snowdon via the easy trail, there are many other possibilities for climbers (Sir Edmund Hillary trained in Snowdonia prior to being the first man to conquer Everest) and the Park is also renowned for mountain biking.
Pembrokeshire Coast (see p567)
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park may be one of the smallest by area, but it has a coast made up of some of Britain’s best beaches, and is remarkable for its high cliffs, rock formations and indented bays. The small offshore islands are a paradise for birdwatchers. Surfing, windsurfing, diving and RIB rides are very popular and coasteering was invented here.
Brecon Beacons (see p572)
This sparsely populated upland area with its eastern extremity on the Welsh border, offers a broad range of activities. The southern belt of limestone cliffs, riddled with sinkholes and caves, is spectacular.
Snowdonia National Park near Beddgelert
© Sime / Photononstop
TOURIST OFFICES
TRAVEL PLANNING
Plan your trip with Michelin’s online route planner via the best places to see, dine and stay. Explore further with Michelin’s online magazines for tourists, motorists and gastronomists. You can even upload details of your own journeys and discover other users’ favourite journeys to download onto your Michelin GPS.
Digital Guides
Useful visitor-oriented and cultural information on over 85 countries and more than 30,000 tourist attractions. You can book hotels thought the site at attractive rates without fees (subject to hotel terms) and there is also a customisable travel book to prepare for your next trip.
The 80,000-word Guide to Scotland is a personal labour of love by a Scottish author, largely based on her personal travels. A very professional site with excellent suggestions on accommodation.
Well-designed good looking site, with clickable maps, good pictures, personally tested accommodation and lively features and articles about visiting Scotland.
Entertaining and attractive visitors website with personal recommendations.
LONDON
NEWS
The BBC front page with breaking news, magazine stories and links to the rest of the BBC website.
HISTORY & NATURE
| Ο |
National Trust www.nationaltrust.org.uk One of the largest landowners in the United Kingdom. Owns and protects many heritage properties and natural beauty spots. |
| Ο | English Heritage
Exists to protect and promote England’s historic environment and over 400 properties (many of which are ruins). |
| Ο | Cadw (Welsh Historic Monuments) Responsible for historic monuments in Wales, including many famous castles among its 125 properties. |
| Ο | Historic Scotland
Responsible for historic monuments in Scotland with over 300 properties. |
The temperate climate of Great Britain has helped to make it the home of many outdoor sports and games. There are few days in the year when outdoor activities are impossible and the long coastline, the rivers and lakes, the mountains and lowlands provide opportunities for all kinds of sports. The mild and moist climate has fostered the development of many games played on a flat grass surface – the national pastimes being football (both “soccer” and rugby) in winter, and cricket in summer. Every weekend (weather permitting) from May to September, cricket matches are played on club fields and village green.
CYCLING
Britain is fast becoming a much more cycle-friendly country, in spite of often heavy traffic conditions. Most local tourist information centres will give advice on cycle hire and routes, including traffic-free alternatives. The National Cycle Network (www.sustrans.org.uk) comprises around 10,000 miles/16,100km of signposted cycle routes, around a third of which are traffic-free. Just click on their 'Map' link to find routes close to where you’re staying. The national association, the Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC) can also help with itineraries and maps.
Cyclists’ Touring Club
t0844 736 8450. www.ctc.org.uk
FISHING
There are over 3.7 million fishermen in Britain. The season for coarse fishing/angling (which applies to freshwater fish, other than trout, salmon and char) runs from 15 March to 15 June; permits and advice on local waters can be obtained from any tackle shop. The waters around Britain provide ample opportunity for anglers to test their skills. Salmon and trout fishing, for which licences are required, is found in Scotland, England and Wales. Sea-angling is popular, particularly along the southwestern and Northumbrian coastlines. Sea angling festivals are regular features in some resorts.
Angling Trust
Salmon and Trout Association
www.fishpal.com/SalmonAndTrout
GOLF
Great Britain is the spiritual home of the game and very well supplied with golf courses which range from the links courses on the coast to inland park courses. Most are privately owned but are happy to accept visitors. Municipal courses are usually very heavily used, with long queues at the first tee at weekends. In Scotland green fees are less expensive and queues are rare.
Michelin Maps 501 to 504 and the annual red-cover Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland give information about golf courses. For more choices visit www.uk-golfguide.com.
GAME SHOOTING
Game shooting takes place all over Great Britain but the famous grouse moors are in Scotland and the shooting season opens on 12 August.
HIKING AND CLIMBING
Throughout the country there are many thousands of miles of bridleways and official footpaths, including way marked Long Distance Footpaths, which give access to superb hill and coastal scenery. Some of the very best walking and hiking is provided by the national parks.
For fell-walkers and mountaineers, the Lake District, Wales and Scotland provide the most challenging ascents. All hikers and climbers should be aware of potential dangers and be properly equipped. Climbers are also advised to inform the police, or someone else responsible, of their plans before hazardous climbs.
The Ramblers Association
www.ramblers.org.uk is the national body (see also www.getwalking.org) Climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers should visit www.thebmc.co.uk
HORSE RIDING
The British have a longstanding love affair with horses and there are professionally run horse-riding centres all over the country (even central London), catering to all levels. There is no central UK organisation so ask at the nearest tourist information centre.
BOATING, SAILING AND CRUISING
Britain has many miles of coastline, estuaries, rivers, lakes and canals, all of which offer facilities for enjoying the water. There are all kinds of opportunities for amateur and professional sailors – a cabin cruiser on the Norfolk Broads, a narrowboat on the canal network, a punt or a rowing boat on the river.
On the rivers, lakes and reservoirs there are marinas and moorings for cruisers, yachts and sailing boats; along the coast there are facilities for ocean-going yachts.
Most of the canal network has now been rescued from dereliction, and as well as being in use by locals also offers angling, towpath walks and cruises and holidays on narrowboats.
Norfolk Broads
British Waterways
http://canalrivertrust.org.uk.
Narrowboat on the River Avon
©Ann Taylor-Hughes/iStockphoto.com
SKIING
Only Scotland has ski resorts – at Lochaber, Glenshee, Lecht and Aviemore in the Cairngorms and the Nevis Range near Fort William. All have ski schools and Aviemore is the most fully developed resort. Forest trails have been opened up for cross-country skiing. The best snow conditions are usually found in March and April but up-to-the minute snow reports are essential. Information available from Ski Scotland; http://ski.visitscotland.com. There are several dry ski slopes all over Great Britain.
WINDSURFING AND WATERSKIING
Schools and changing facilities for windsurfers are available on many inland waters and at popular places along the coast. Newquay is the UK’s surfing capital and the English Surf School is the best source of information; try also www.surfing-waves.com. If you wish to waterski or wakeboard, some clubs offer a day membership system.
English Surf School
British Water Ski & Wakeboard
Britain in the 21C is an excellent place for families with children, with a whole host of increasingly sophisticated interactive attractions competing for your attention (beware it can get expensive!).
THINGS TO DO
In this guide, sights of particular interest to children are indicated with a KIDS symbol (/), though rare these days is the visitor attraction that does not cater in some way for young ones. All attractions offer discounts for children and /or discounted family tickets for two or more children. Here are a few highlights:
London & Windsor
– South Ken Museums (see p172)
– Covent Garden (see p162)
– London Zoo (see p166)
– Legoland (see p183)
Surrey, Kent and Sussex
– Thorpe Park (see p192)
– Chessington Adventures (see p192),
– Howletts (see p201)
Hampshire, Dorset, Wiltshire
– Historic Dockyard (see p218)
– Dinosaur Isle (see p225)
– Beaulieu Motor Museum (see p230)
– Longleat Safari Park (see p238)
Chilterns, Oxfordshire, Cotswolds
– Woburn Safari Park (see p258)
– Bourton-on-the-Water (see p270)
Bristol, Bath and Somerset
– At-Bristol Science Centre (see p281)
– Bristol Zoo (see p285)
– Wookey Hole (see p292)
– Cheddar Gorge & Caves (see p292)
Devon and Cornwall
– Kents Cavern (see p305)
– Paignton Zoo (see p306)
– National Marine Aquarium (see p309)
– Land’s End (see p330)
East Anglia
– Nene Valley Railway (see p355)
– Tales Old Gaol House (see p352)
– Norwich Castle Dungeons (see p347)
East Midlands
– Galleries of Justice Museum (see p360)
– National Space Centre (see p362)
– Snibston (see p362)
West Midlands and Peaks
– Warwick Castle (see p380)
– Alton Towers (see p403)
– Enginuity/Blists Hill (see p387)
– Cadbury World (see p395)
– Black Country Living Mus. (see p395)
Northwest
– MOSI Manchester (see p409)
– Man Utd Museum & Tour (see p411)
– Blackpool (see p423)
Cumbria and The Lakes
– Hill Top (see p431)
– The Lakes Aquarium (see p431)
– Pencil Museum (see p435)
Yorkshire
– Magna (Science Centre) (see p444)
– Royal Armouries Museum (see p445)
– National Media Museum (see p449)
– Mother Shipton’s Cave (see p458)
– Jorvik (see p462)
– National Railway Museum (see p464)
– Lightwater Valley (see p456)
Northeast
– Alnwick Castle & Garden (see p486)
– Beamish (see p476)
– Life Science Centre (see p481)
Scotland
– Edinburgh Zoo (see p510)
– Our Dynamic Earth (see p507)
– Glasgow Science Centre (see p517)
– Riverside Museum (see p517)
– Cairngorm Reindeer (see 538)
– Loch Ness Exhibition (see p544)
Wales
– National Museum Cardiff (see p560)
– Big Pit (see p563)
– Techniquest (see p563)
– National Showcaves (see p573)
Britain is one of the great shop windows of the world, famed in so many spheres of production and with so many acclaimed designers over the years from Hardy Amies through Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood to Alexander McQueen.
WHAT TO BUY
For many visitors clothing is top of the shopping list. There is a huge choice of woollen articles in cashmere or lambswool, particularly in Scotland. Classic styles are sold by well-known names such as Jaeger, Burberry, Marks and Spencer, John Lewis, Debenhams and House of Fraser. The very best made-to-measure (bespoke) clothing for men is traditionally available in London in Savile Row (tailors) and Jermyn Street (shirt-makers), though these days many of the larger provincial cities (Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds, and of course the capitals of Edinburgh and Cardiff) boast outlets that are equally fashionable.
The best makes of traditional porcelain – Wedgwood, Royal Worcester, Royal Doulton – are available in London and elsewhere while very acceptable 'seconds' can be bought at the factory or in 'reject shops'. Britain is equally well known for its modern wares.
Antique shops and markets abound in Britain and although it is becoming increasingly difficult to find bargains in mainstream outlets, lovers of historical bric-a-brac and smaller, less valuable items will find plenty to divert them.
Traditional foodie souvenirs include Scotch whisky, smoked salmon, tea and marmalade, though these days it might well be artisan cheeses or even a do-it-yourself molecular gastronomy kit!
WHERE TO SHOP
London literally has it all: the greatest department stores, the biggest brand-name outlets, quirky specialists, the liveliest and most fascinating street markets, the poshest antique and jewellery stores. It also has crowds and, generally higher prices.
The capital no longer has the monoply on some of its most famous names however: Selfridges famously occupies Birmingham's most iconic new building, Harvey Nichols have opened in Edinburgh, Leeds, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh, and other big London retail names have realised there are profits to be made in the provinces. It is of course no coincidence that these cities, alongside Glasgow and Cardiff, offer the most comprehensive shopping options outside London.
Bicester Village, near Oxford, is the UK's leading outlet shopping centre with 130 designer boutiques at discounted prices. Or you might like to visit small towns or (real) villages, which have gained a reputation for their wares: Ludlow for food; Hay-on-Wye for books, Rye for antiques…
The good news for shoppers who prefer little to large is that independent shops have recently become more prevalent everywhere, even in the big cities; notably in Cardiff and Edinburgh while Bath, Brighton and Norwich are renowned for the quality and quantity of their one-off shops. There are vibrant markets in Oxford, Glasgow (The Barras), Cardiff and Birmingham (Rag Market) where local crafts and upmarket foodstuffs are sold to visitors alongside everyday fruit 'n' veg to locals.
And don't forget the much-maligned attraction gift shop, particularly in London, where the major museums and sights have excellent ranges.
The British have always been excellent when it comes to staging pomp and ceremony, even if (compared to revellers in Europe) many of our other celebrations have some way to go to match continental passions. In recent years music and literary festivals have come strongly to the fore.
England and wales
For a full programme of events by themes, regions and/or dates, visit www.visitbritain.com.
SPRING
MARCH
Wales – St David’s Day (1 Mar). Welsh patriots wear a leek or a daffodil (two national emblems) on their lapels to mark their patron saint’s national day.
APRIL
The Thames (London) – Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race. The world’s most famous rowing race. www.theboatrace.org.
MAY
Helston – Flora Day Furry Dance. Spectacular processional dances (early May). www.helstonfloraday.org.uk.
Blair Castle – Last weekend in May. Atholl Highlanders Annual Parade, Highland Games.
London (Royal Hospital, Chelsea) – Chelsea Flower Show. Internationally famous flower show. www.rhs.org.uk.
Brighton – Brighton Festival. The largest arts festival in England: music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film, literature, debate, outdoor and family events. http://brightonfestival.org.
Glyndebourne, East Sussex – Glyndebourne Festival Opera (May-Aug). Britain’s most prestigious opera programme, culminating in a traditional picnic. http://glyndebourne.com.
SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS
Britain is well served with music festivals. The biggest is Glastonbury. Other festivals that attract big name acts are Reading Festival; Leeds Festival; O2 Wireless Festival, Hyde Park, London; V Festival, Weston Park, Staffs; Isle of Wight Festival. Popular crossover music and world music festivals include Bestival (Isle of Wight) and WOMAD (Charlton Park, Wilts).Visit www.efestivals.co.uk.
SUMMER
Blackpool – September–October. Blackpool Illuminations. www.blackpool-illuminations.net.
Peak District – May-September. Well Dressing: in Peak villages inc. Eyam, Monyash, Warksworth, Youlgreave.
Isle of Man TT – Late May–early June. World-famous motorcycle road racing. www.iomtt.com.
London – Mid-July–mid-September. Henry Wood Promenade Concerts (BBC Proms): Royal Albert Hall. www.royalalberthall.com, www.bbc.co.uk/proms.
JUNE
Aldeburgh Festival – Classical music festival. www.aldeburgh.co.uk.
Ascot – Royal Ascot (the highlight of the British horse-racing calendar). www.ascot.co.uk.
London – Trooping the Colour: the Queen’s official birthday parade on Horse Guards Parade. www.army.mod.uk/events.
APRIL: Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race, London
© visitlondonimages / britainonview / Pawel Libera
Hay-on-Wye – Hay-on-Wye (late May–early Jun) Hay Festival of Literature and the Arts ('Hay Book Festival') interviews/talks by famous writers from Britain and abroad.
Wimbledon – last wk Jun–first wk Jul. Lawn Tennis Championships. www.wimbledon.com.
Ludlow – June. Shakespeare Festival. www.ludlowartsfestival.co.uk.
Henley Royal Regatta – late June–early July. The world's premier amateur regatta. www.hrr.co.uk.
JULY
Llangollen – International Eisteddfod. International Musical Competitions. www.llangollen.com.
Cambridge – Cambridge Folk Festival. The most important folk festival in the UK (and beyond).
www.cambridgefolkfestival.co.uk.
King’s Lynn – Festival of Music (classical and jazz) and the Arts. www.kingslynnfestival.org.uk
Bristol – Harbour Festival. Live music, dance and street performers.
www.bristolharbourfestival.co.uk.
Gloucester, Hereford, Worcester – Three Choirs Festival (end July–early August). Choral concerts which alternate between the three cities (Worcester 2014). http://3choirs.org.
River Thames – Swan-Upping: Marking of swans on the Thames. www.royalswan.co.uk.
AUGUST
Jersey – Battle of Flowers: floral-inspired carnival.
Portsmouth – International Kite Festival. www.portsmouthkitefestival.org.uk.
Liverpool – Liverpool International Music Festival. Europe’s biggest annual free city centre music festival. www.limfestival.com.
London – Notting Hill Carnival.
www.nottinghill-carnival.co.uk.
AUGUST: Notting Hill Carnival, London
© Jon Arnold / hemis.fr
AUTUMN
OCTOBER
Canterbury – Canterbury Festival. www.canterburyfestival.co.uk.
Nottingham – Goose Fair. Europe’s largest funfair. www.nottinghamcity.gov.uk.
Nationwide – 31 Oct. Halloween festivities.
NOVEMBER
London to Brighton – First Sun. Veteran Car Run. www.lbvcr.com.
Nationwide – 5 Nov. Fireworks and bonfires commemorate Guy Fawkes and the Gunpowder Plot. Spectacular celebrations at Lewes (www.lewesbonfirecelebrations.com) and Bridgwater (www.bridgwatercarnival.org.uk).
City of London – 2nd Sat November. Lord Mayor’s Show. Grand street parade plus fireworks. www.lordmayorsshow.org.
London – Late November–early December. State Opening of Parliament. www.parliament.uk. For a full programme of events visit www.scotland.org/celebrate-scotland
WINTER
DECEMBER
London – Christmas highlights in London include Midnight Mass at St Paul’s Cathedral; lights and dressed shop windows on Regent Street (www.regentstreetonline.com) and Oxford Street (www.oxfordstreet.co.uk); and the enormous Trafalgar Square Christmas tree.
SCOTLAND
For a full programme of events visit www.scotland.org/celebrate-scotland
SPRING
MARCH
Aberdeen – Aberdeen Jazz Festival. www.aberdeenjazzfestival.com.
APRIL
Ayr – Scottish Grand National. The premier Scottish horseracing event. www.ayr-racecourse.co.uk.
Melrose – Melrose Sevens. Seven-a-side rugby tournament. www.melrose7s.com.
APRIL–MAY
Shetland – Shetland Folk Festival : www.shetlandfolkfestival.com.
Speyside – Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival. www.spiritofspeyside.com.
MAY
Nationwide – Beginning of the Highland Games.
Aviemore – Aviemore Walking Festival. www.aviemorewalking.talktalk.net
Ayrshire – Burns an ’a’ that. www.visitscotland.com/about/robert-burns/festival.
Blair Castle – Atholl Highlanders Parade. www.blair-castle.co.uk.
MAY–JUNE
Angus – Glens Walking Festival.
www.angusahead.com/walkingfestival
SUMMER
JUNE
Edinburgh – Edinburgh International Film Festival. www.edfilmfest.org.uk.
Fort William – Mountain biking World Cup. http://fortwilliamworldcup.co.uk.
Glasgow – West End Festival. The city’s largest cultural event. www.westendfestival.co.uk.
Kirkwall and Stromness (Orkneys) – Classical music, drama, dance, literature and the visual arts. www.stmagnusfestival.com.
JUNE-JULY
Glasgow – Glasgow Jazz Festival. www.jazzfest.co.uk.
JULY
Edinburgh – Edinburgh International Jazz and Blues Festival. www.edinburghjazzfestival.com.
Fochabers – Traditional and Contemporary Celtic Music Festival.
Glasgow – Merchant City Festival. Live music, dance, food and drink. www.merchantcityfestival.com.
Outer Hebrides – Stornoway, also Lewis and Harris) – Hebridean Celtic Festival. www.hebceltfest.com. July-August.
Aberdeen – International Youth Festival : dance, opera, drama, jazz, world music. www.aiyf.org.
AUGUST
Bellabeg, Strathdon – Games Day (4th Sat). March of the Lonach Highlanders plus Highland Games. www.welcometoscotland.com.
Edinburgh– Edinburgh International Festival (www.eif.co.uk); Fringe Festival (www.edfringe.com); Military Tattoo (www.edintattoo.co.uk); Edinburgh International Book Festival (www.edbookfest.co.uk).
Glasgow – Glasgow International Piping Festival, World Pipe Band Championship. www.pipinglive.co.uk.
Largs – Viking Festival (late Aug-first wk Sept). Anniversary of Battle of Largs 1263, the last Viking invasion in the UK. www.largsvikingfestival.com.
Oban – Argyllshire Gathering.
Dunoon – Cowal Highland Gathering (last weekend Aug): biggest, most spectacular Highland games in the world.
Dunkeld – Birnam Highland Games (last Sat Aug). www.birnamhighlandgames.com.
Inverness – Belladrum Tartan Heart Festival. Indie, rock, dance, celtic, blues, roots and children's ents.
AUGUST: Pipers, Games Day, Strathdon
© Jan Holm / age fotostock
SEPTEMBER
Arran – Mountain Festival. Hill-walking and mountanieering festival. www.arranmountainfestival.co.uk.
Ayr – William Hill Ayr Gold Cup Festival. www.ayr-racecourse.co.uk
Braemar – Braemar Highland Gathering (first Sat). www.braemargathering.org.
Dunbar – Traditional Music Festival www.dunbarmusicfestival.co.uk.
Fort William – Ben Nevis Race. Up and down Britain's highest mountain. www.bennevisrace.co.uk.
Highlands – Blas Festival: Celtic music festival. www.blas-festival.com.
Borders – Walking Festival. www.borderswalking.com.
WINTER
OCTOBER
Dundee – Fest‘n’ Furious Folk Festival.
NOVEMBER
Nationwide – St Andrew’s Day (30 Nov).
DECEMBER
Nationwide– Christmas festivities, Christmas Markets and Hogmanay (New Year's Eve) celebrations, particularly spectacular in Edinburgh (www.edinburghschristmas.com), Glasgow (www.glasgowloveschristmas.com) and Stonehaven where a Fireball Ceremony chases away evil spirits (www.stonehavenfireballs.co.uk).
JANUARY
Nationwide– Burns Night : Burns' Suppers (25 Jan) in honour of the national poet.
Glasgow – Celtic Connections. Music festival. www.celticconnections.com.
Shetland – Up Helly Aa. Europe's largest and most spectacular fire festival. www.uphellyaa.org.
FEBRUARY
Glasgow – Glasgow Film Festival. www.glasgowfilm.org/festival
Jedburgh – Ba’Games. Street ball game.
TOP TIPS
Best time to go: Early summer before the school holidays.
Best way around: By train! Start in London, then pick a major city or two as a base for day trips.
Best for sightseeing: London, Edinburgh, York, Glasgow, Liverpool.
Best accommodation: Farm stay or a luxury boutique B&B.
Need to know: The British sense of humour!
Need to taste: Molecular gastronomy in a top London (or big city) restaurant; elsewhere, fish 'n' chips, steak 'n' kidney pie, Yorkshire Pudding, rhubarb crumble and custard, local cheeses. Drink: real ale, Pimms.
WHEN TO GO
SEASONS
There is no season of the year when it’s too hot, too cold, too wet or too dry for you to enjoy the sights, but the changeable British climate lives up to its reputation. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting parks and gardens, when the flowers are in bloom or the leaves are turning colour; most stately homes and other country sights are closed from October to Easter. In spring as the days grow longer and warmer, the light is glorious, but showers are frequent. Summer is unpredictable with moderate temperatures; in July and August there may be occasional heat waves in the southern areas, when the thermometer tops 30°C/86°F, or the days may be cloudy and cool. Autumn can start dry and sunny, with clear skies and beautiful sunsets, while the air is crisp and invigorating. But as the days grow shorter, the temperature usually lowers. In winter, southern areas can remain fairly mild until Christmas. There may be cold snaps, but the temperature rarely drops below freezing point. However, wind and dampness can make it feel very cold. Autumn and winter are the best time for visiting museums or for shopping, as places are less crowded, except in the weeks before Christmas.
CLIMATE
Chatting about the weather is a great British tradition, if only because it is so unpredictable and rain is seldom unaccompanied by brighter spells. The moist and breezy oceanic climate has many compensations. Stressful extremes of either heat or cold are rare, so that outdoor activity of some kind is almost always possible.
Although the western mountains receive the highest amount of precipitation, which on some summits reaches an astonishing 200in/5,000mm, it is in the west that the tempering effects of the Gulf Stream are felt and where subtropical plants can flourish in sheltered locations. The drier, sunnier climate of the east and south is more continental in character, with colder winters and warmer summers.
| PUBLIC HOLIDAYS | |
| 1 January | New Year’s Day |
| Good Friday | Friday before Easter Day |
| Easter Monday | Monday after Easter Day |
| First Monday in May | May Day |
| Last Monday in May | Spring Bank Holiday |
| Last Monday in August | Bank Holiday |
| 25 December | Christmas Day |
| 26 December | Boxing Day |
GETTING THERE
BY AIR
Various national and other independent airlines operate services to the capital’s five airports. Heathrow and Gatwick service the majority of flights:
London Heathrow (LHR)
London Gatwick (LGW)
London Luton (LTN)
London Stansted (STN)
London City (LCY)
Services also run to major regional airports (Aberdeen, Birmingham, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle, Prestwick).
There are numerous cross-Channel (passenger and car ferries, hovercraft) and other ferry or shipping services from the continent. For details apply to travel agencies or to the ferry companies.
Brittany Ferries t0871 244 0744. www.brittanyferries.com
Irish Ferries t(353) 818 300 400. www.irishferries.com
P&O Ferries t08716 642 121. www.poferries.com
Stena Line t08447 70 70 70. www.stenaline.com
BY TRAIN
The Channel Tunnel provides a direct Eurostar rail link from London St Pancras International to France and Belgium. Eurostar also runs from Ebbsfleet International and from Ashford International station (both in Kent). There is also a road/rail link between Folkestone and Calais (France).
Eurostar www.eurostar.com t08432 186 186 (ticket and bookings); t+44 1233 617 575 outside the UK.
BritRail and InterRail Passes are available to overseas visitors and are well worth considering if you intend to travel extensively in Britain by rail, particularly given the relatively high cost of rail travel if you buy tickets while in Britain. (Note that Eurail passes are not valid for train travel in Great Britain), European residents (including Brits) can use the InterRail Pass, but you can only buy a BritRail Pass if you are not a UK resident. BritRail Passes allow travel on consecutive days for various periods. These concessions can be obtained only outside Britain and should be purchased from appointed agents before the beginning of the journey in question. For more details on BritRail passes, visit www.britrail.com; for details of InterRail passes visit www.interrail.eu.
BY CAR
Documents
EU nationals require a valid national driving licence; US nationals require a driving licence valid for 12 months – a permit is available from your local branch of the American Automobile Association: twww.aaa.com.
Other nationals require an international driving licence.
If you intend bringing your own vehicle to the UK, you will need to have the registration papers (log-book) for the vehicle and a nationality plate of the approved size.
Insurance
Insurance cover is compulsory and although an International Insurance Certificate (Green Card) is no longer a legal requirement in Britain, it is the most effective proof of insurance cover and is internationally recognised by the police and other authorities.
Certain UK motoring organisations offer accident insurance and breakdown service plans for members. Aria-Assistance (www.aria-assistance.co.uk) and the American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) have special plans for their respective memberships.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
EU nationals should hold some means of identification, such as a passport. Non-EU nationals must be in possession of a valid national passport. Loss or theft should be reported to the appropriate embassy or consulate and to the local police. A visa to visit the United Kingdom is not required by nationals of the member states of the European Union and of the Commonwealth (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa) and the USA. Nationals of other countries should check with the British Embassy and apply for a visa if necessary in good time.
The US Department of State provides useful information for US nationals on obtaining a passport, visa requirements, customs regulations, medical care, etc. for international travel online at http://travel.state.gov.
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
Tax-free allowances for various commodities are governed by EU legislation except in the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man, which have different regulations. Details of these allowances and restrictions are available at most ports of entry to Great Britain.
It is prohibited to import into the United Kingdom any drugs, firearms and ammunition, obscene material featuring children, counterfeit merchandise, unlicensed livestock (birds or animals), anything related to endangered species (furs, ivory, horn, leather) and certain plants (potatoes, bulbs, seeds, trees).
British customs regulations and “duty free” allowances are outlined on their website; visit www.hmrc.gov.uk (insert Customs Allowances in ‘Search’). US allowances can be found at http://travel.state.gov.
HEALTH
Visitors to Britain are entitled to treatment at the Accident and Emergency Departments of National Health Service hospitals. For an overnight or longer stay in hospital, payment will probably be required. It is therefore advisable to take out adequate insurance cover before leaving home. Visitors from EU countries should apply to their own National Social Security Offices for a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) – the replacement for Form E111 – which entitles them to medical treatment under an EU Reciprocal Medical Treatment arrangement.
Nationals of non-EU countries should take out comprehensive insurance. American Express offers a service, “Global Assist”, for any medical, legal or personal emergency – visit www.americanexpress.com or call t01273 696 933.
jACCESSIBILITY
Many of the sights described in this guide are accessible to disabled people; they are designated by the jsymbol in the Entry Times and Charges for the attractions.
However, this symbol should not be taken to signify anything other than general accessibility (as specified by the attraction) and it is always advisable to call ahead.
The red-cover Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland indicates hotels with facilities suitable for disabled people; it is advisable to book in advance. The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR) publishes an annual guide Holidays in the British Isles with information on hotels and holiday centres as well as sections on transport, accommodation for children and activity holidays. Call RADAR, t020 7250 3222, or shop online, www.radar-shop.org.uk..
Tourism For All is the national charity for UK residents: t0845 124 9971. www.tourismforall.org.uk. Their other site, www.openbritain.net, is a useful one-stop shop for accessible tourism in the UK.
GETTING AROUND
BY TRAIN
The UK has a large railway network and most populated places can be accessed via rail. Tickets can be expensive, so make sure you buy in advance. Once you are in Great Britain, for information on rail services and on other concessionary tickets, including combined train and bus tickets, call t08457 48 49 50. www.nationalrail.co.uk. To buy train tickets, either go to the station, buy online in advance from the above website, at www.thetrainline.com, or from the individual train operators.
BY COACH/BUS
National Express, in association with other bus operators, runs express coach services covering the whole country. t08717 818 178. www.nationalexpress.com.
Cheap intercity bus companies include www.megabus.co.uk while www.easybus.co.uk offers cheap airport transfer services to and from central London. For comprehensive public transport information in the UK, call t0871 200 22 33 or visit www.traveline.org.uk.
BY CAR
Motoring Organisations
The major motoring organisations in Great Britain are the Automobile Association and the Royal Automobile Club. Each provides services in varying degrees for non-resident members of affiliated clubs.
Automobile Association
(breakdown cover sales).
Royal Automobile Club
t08000 722 822 (breakdown cover)
© Transport for London 2005
CONGESTION CHARGING
At present London is the only city, in the UK with a congestion charge. This is payable by drivers entering the central part of the city Mon–Fri 7am–6pm. Driving into London is not recommended for visitors at any time, but if you do have to bring in your vehicle at these times, then you must familiarise yourself with how to pay by visiting www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/congestioncharging.
Road Regulations
The minimum driving age is 17 years old. Traffic drives on the left and overtakes on the right. Headlights must be used at night even in built-up areas and at other times when visibility is poor.
There are severe penalties for driving after drinking more than the legal limit of alcohol. Important traffic signs are shown at the end of the red-cover Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland. Signage in the UK corresponds in general to international norms.
Seat Belts
It is compulsory for all passengers to wear seat belts in the UK.
Speed Limits
Maximum speeds are:
70mph/112kph, motorways or dual carriageways
60mph/96kph, other roads
30mph/48kph, in towns and cities.
Parking
Off-street parking is indicated by blue signs with white lettering (Parking or P); payment is made on leaving or in advance for a certain period. There are also parking meters, disc systems and paying parking zones; in the last case tickets must be obtained from ticket machines (small change necessary) and displayed inside the windscreen. Illegal parking is liable to fines and also in certain cases to the vehicle being clamped or towed away.
The usual restrictions are as follows:
Double red line = no stopping at any time (freeway)
Double yellow line = no parking at any time
Single yellow line = no parking for set periods as indicated on panel
Dotted yellow line = parking limited to certain times only.
Route Planning
The whole of Great Britain is covered by the Michelin map series 501-504
(scale 1:400,00) and the Michelin Road Atlas of Great Britain and Ireland (scale 1: 300,000). In addition to the usual detailed road information, they indicate tourist features such as beaches or bathing areas, swimming pools, golf courses, racecourses, scenic routes, tourist sights, country parks, etc. These publications are an essential complement to the annual Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland, which offers an up-to-date selection of hotels and restaurants organised alphabetically by town, all inspected and graded by Michelin and marked on maps throughout. Traffic in and around towns is heavy during the rush hour (morning and evening). It is also very heavy on major roads at the weekend in summer, particularly bank holiday weekends.
Car Rental
There are car rental agencies at airports, railway stations and in all large towns throughout Great Britain. European cars usually have manual transmission but automatic cars are available on demand. An international driving licence is required for non-EU nationals. Most companies will not rent to drivers aged under 21 or 25. The following firms operate on a national basis:
Avis t0844 581 0147. www.avis.co.uk
Budget t0844 544 3470. www.budget.co.uk
National Car Rental t800 121 8303 (US or Canada) www.nationalcar.co.uk
EasyCar t08710 500 444.
Europcar t0871 384 1087. www.europcar.co.uk.
Hertz t0843 309 3099. www.hertz.co.uk.
Petrol/Gas
In service stations dual-pumps are the rule. Unleaded pumps have green handles or a green stripe.
Tolls
Tolls are rare; they are levied only on the most recent bridges (London QE II, Severn, Humber and Skye), the M6 toll road (bypasses Birmingham traffic), a few minor country bridges as well as road tunnels (Dartford, Tyne).
Driving Conditions
In general, the closer you are to London and the Southeast, the more congested the roads become. If you intend making a major city (particularly London) the base for your trip, don’t consider driving at all. In this case, using public transport for any excursions out of town is a much better idea than car hire.
All major (and many minor) cities and towns in Britain suffer traffic problems and you should avoid rush hours (7.30am to 9.30am and 5pm to 6.30pm) wherever possible.
STAY
Useful Websites
www.visitbritain.com The official Visit Britain site includes Britain’s largest accommodation listing with over 37,000 places to stay.
www.viamichelin.com Plan your trip around some of Britain’s finest places to see, dine and stay with Michelin’s online route planner and magazine.
Visit this site if you would like to stay in a former windmill, a lighthouse, a church, a gypsy caravan, dovecote…
Types of Accommodation
Accommodation in Britain runs the whole range, from a room in a characterful historic pub to an anonymous but (usually) comfortable night in a chain hotel, from a cheap room in a B&B (bed and breakfast in a private house) to being pampered in some of the world’s finest and most sophisticated hotels. That said, in the last few years a good number of top-end B&Bs have gone 'designer-boutique' and can cost more than a conventional hotel room with more facilities.
London is still the most expensive place to stay in the UK, though some top hotel rates in the big provincial cities are now on a par with London prices. If price is not a problem, you can find top-quality designer hotels, many offering spa facilities and wellness treatments, in many large British cities and all over the countryside. At the other end of the price spectrum, there is also a proliferation of no-frills chain hotels offering very competitive deals.
Wherever you choose to stay, try to book in advance online for the best deals, but if you do simply turn up at the hotel desk, ask what is the best deal they can offer you (do not simply accept the published room rate) and be prepared to haggle – the later in the day it is, the better your chances of securing a cheaper room.
Reservation Services
Most tourist information centres will provide, free of charge, an information booklet listing all hotels, bed-and-breakfast and other accommodation. Many will arrange accommodation for a small fee. Room prices are normally just that – the price per room – however, even for a double room, they may be quoted per person. In London the British Hotels Reservation Centre can help. They have 14 outlets located at Heathrow airport, St Pancras and Victoria railway stations, Victoria Coach Station, Trafalgar Square and New Oxford Street. t020 7592 3055. www.bhrconline.com.
Budget Accommodation Bed and Breakfast (B&B)
Many private individuals take in a limited number of guests. Prices include bed and breakfast, usually the cooked variety. A few offer an evening meal though the choice will of course be limited. Local tourist information centres usually have a list of the bed-and-breakfast establishments in the area and book if necessary for a fee. Many houses advertise with a 'B&B' sign.
Put Me Up t01223 852 920. www.putmeup.co.uk
Rural Accommodation
An interesting way of spending a holiday is to stay on one of the many different types of working farm – arable, livestock, hill or mixed – sometimes set in the heart of glorious countryside. For information apply for the booklet Farm Stay UK supplied by the company of the same name: t024 7669 6909. www.farmstayuk.co.uk.
Universities and Colleges
During summer holidays many universities and colleges offer low-cost accommodation in the halls of residence for as little as £21 a night.
Youth Hostels
There are 250 youth hostels in Great Britain are open to members of the Youth Hostel Association (England and Wales), or to those with an international membership card. t0800 0191 700 (reservations). www.yha.org.uk. For Scotland contact the Scottish Youth Hostel Association t0845 293 7373 (reservations). www.syha.org.uk
International Youth Hostel Federation www.hihostels.com
Camping
Local tourist information centres supply lists of sites. Many more are available through The Camping and Caravanning Club t0845 130 7632. www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk. A three-month temporary membership includes special deals with up to 30 percent off overnight stops.
WHERE TO EAT
USEFUL WEBSITES
A useful trip planner featuring some of Britain’s finest places to stay and eat alongside a gastronomy, tourism and motoring magazine.
Reviews of restaurants and bars in London and around the UK by food critics, alongside foodie event reviews.
This site is based on reader reviews and also features money-saving offers.
Restaurants
Dining out in the UK has undergone a revolution in the last two decades and now ranks among the very best in the world. Thanks to its colonial past and its cosmopolitan nature, the UK offers authentic tastes from all over the world, often cooked by native chefs, or collected, magpie-like, by celebrity chefs from culinary tours of the world. Restaurants are becoming less and less formal with only the top hotel dining rooms and traditional establishments still stipulating dress codes. Hours too have become more flexible though many places still serve lunch from around 12 noon to around 2.30pm and dinner from around 7pm to 10pm, and close in between.
Only in London and the more buzzing metropolises will you find a good selection of late-dining restaurants.
Prices tend to be high compared to many other parts of the world, though eating at lunchtime from set menus can save you a small fortune.
Making a reservation for weekend nights and Sunday lunchtime is recommended and if you want to eat in Britain’s top restaurants you may need to book weeks in advance (though it’s always worth checking at the last minute for cancellations).
A selection of places to eat can be found in the Address Books throughout this guide. The Legend at the back of the book explains the symbols used in the Address Books.
Bistros, brasseries and cafés
These European-style establishments, usually serving a variety of relatively simple, pan-European dishes, are the places for snacks, informal meals and drinks in trendy upbeat surroundings right throughout the day and night. The UK now has a profusion of US-style cafés, (most notably Starbucks) on the high streets of most large towns. Less common these days is the traditional English café, sometimes called a “caff’ or “greasy spoon”. This is traditionally the place for a good old-fashioned fry-up (bacon, eggs, sausages, etc.), washed down with a mug of strong tea.
Gastropubs
Eating out in public houses (“pubs”) has changed enormously over the last decade or so, with more and more establishments putting the emphasis on serving food rather than merely serving drinks. This has led to the rise of the so-called “gastropub”, originally only found in London and the Home Counties (the regions around the capital), but now spread to all parts of the country. The typical gastropub is a sort of British bistro; stylish, blending modern with traditional, and serving a relatively short menu of Modern European/Modern British food. Prices vary enormously and in many places you may spend as much as you would in a smart restaurant.
Beware that the pub-food revolution also means that many pubs with no history of serving food have jumped onto the bandwagon, many with little expertise or knowledge, consequently serving poor-quality overpriced food. Steer clear of pubs offering long menus and complicated dishes, unless they have an established name.
Pub Hours and Regulations
Pubs’ statutory maximum licensing hours were until quite recently: Monday–Saturday 11am–11pm, and Sunday 12.30pm–10.30pm, with many closing during the afternoon. In 2005 “24-hour drinking laws” came into operation allowing the country’s pubs, clubs and bars to open, in theory, around the clock. In practice, relatively few premises applied for a licence to extend their hours. Pubs that serve meals (now the majority) normally allow children on the premises as long as they remain within the eating area and even more traditionally inclined pubs may allow children in before a certain time (say 8pm or 9pm). The best policy is to ask someone behind the bar before marching in with kids.
You must be 18 to be served with alcohol and, if you look younger, you will almost certainly be asked for some form of age identification.
MICHELIN GUIDE (RED COVER)
The annual Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland presents our selection of the best hotels and restaurants, based on regular on-the-spot visits and enquiries. Pleasant settings, attractive décor, quiet or secluded locations and a warm welcome are identified by special symbols. The guide not only celebrates the very best chefs and cuisine that Great Britain has to offer, but also reflects the trend towards informal eating with its Bib Gourmand award to restaurants and good food at moderate prices.
Michelin’s Eating Out in Pubs guide selects the 500 best dining pubs.
Global Cuisine
In the major cities of the United Kingdom you can expect to find the cuisines of almost every country in the world. Increasingly modern Britain, unlike many of her European neighbours, has learned to embrace global cuisine and cooking, even at home. Every town in the UK has its share of Indian and Chinese establishments. n places where large Asian immigrant communities have settled (e.g. Bradford or Birmingham) restaurants from the Indian subcontinent are ubiquitous. After years of simply being the cheap option after the pubs closed, many ethnic restaurants have now moved upmarket to enjoy critical acclaim.
BUSINESS HOURS
Shops are open 10am–2pm, 5–8.30pm, although large stores and malls are often open through lunch. Most shops close Sundays, and some on Saturday afternoons.
Traditional British shopping hours are Mondays to Saturdays from 9am/9.30am to 5.30pm/6pm. Many larger shops, particularly in out-of-town locations, also open Sundays from 10am or 11am to 4pm. There is late-night shopping (until 7pm/8pm) in most large cities on Wednesdays or Thursdays; supermarkets usually close later than other shops. Smaller individual shops may close during the lunch hour; on the other hand some stay open until very late. Many towns have an early closing day when shops are closed during the afternoon.
Traditionally the winter sales before and after Christmas and New Year, and the summer sales in June and July have always been a popular time for shopping, as prices are reduced on a great range of goods. However, sales now appear on the High Street at other times of year too.
ENTRY TIMES
In the Discovering section of the guide the times we generally give are opening hours; for example, 10am–6pm means the site closes at 6pm. In practice many places have a last entry time of 30 minutes to an hour before closing time. If the last entry time is more than an hour before closing time (normally only larger attractions stipulate this) or the attraction specifically states last entry time (as opposed to closing time), we also state this. In general, however, it is always best to arrive at least 90 minutes before an attraction closes for the day, if only to get your money's worth and allow you time to see the site.
| 00 61 | Australia |
| 00 1 | Canada |
| 00 353 | Republic of Ireland |
| 00 64 | New Zealand |
| 00 44 | United Kingdom |
| 00 1 | United States of America |
| 155 | International Operator |
| 100 | Operator |
| 118 500 | BT Directory Enquiries in the UK (cost 59p per call plus £2.39 per minute, or part thereof, from BT landlines) |
| 999 | Emergency number (free nationwide); ask for Fire, Police, Ambulance, Coastguard, Mountain Rescue or Cave Rescue |
COMMUNICATIONS
If staying for longer than a few days, you may want to pick up a pay-as-you-go SIM card for your mobile phone. Rates vary enormously between operators and there are multiple tariffs and variations to choose from.
Some public telephones accept credit cards, but 'phone boxes' are few and far between these days.
International Calls
To make an international call dial t00 followed by the country code, followed by the area code (without the initial 0), followed by the subscriber’s number.
ELECTRICITY
The electric current is 230 volts AC (50 HZ); 3-pin flat wall sockets are standard. An adaptor or multiple point plug is required for non-British appliances.
Australia
High Commission: Australia House, The Strand, London WC2B 4LA. t020 7379 4334. www.uk.embassy.gov.au
Honorary Consulate Scotland:
Mr Richard Jeffrey,
Mitchell House
5 Mitchell Street
Edinburgh EH6 7BD. t0131 538 0582.
Canada
High Commission: Macdonald House, 1 Grosvenor Square,
London W1K 4AB.
Consulate: Cardiff. t02920 449635. Edinburgh t07702 359 916. www.canada.org.uk
Japan
Embassy and Consulate: 101 Piccadilly, London W1J 7JT. t020 7465 6500. www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp
Consulate Scotland: 2 Melville Crescent, Edinburgh EH3 7HW. t0131 225 4777. www.edinburgh.uk.emb-japan.go.jp
New Zealand
High Commission: New Zealand House, 80 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4TQ. t020 7930 8422. www.nzembassy.com
Honorary Consulate, Scotland: t0131 222 8109.
South Africa
High Commission: South Africa House, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DP. t020 7451 7299. http://southafricahouseuk.com
USA
Embassy: 24–31 Grosvenor Square, London W1A 1AE. t020 7499 9000. www.usembassy.org.uk..
Consulate Scotland: 3 Regent Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5BW. t0131 556 8315. http://edinburgh.usconsulate.gov
Welsh Affairs Office: t0229 2002 6419. http://cardiff.usvpp.gov
EMERGENCIES
Dial 999 and an operator will ask you which service (Police, Fire or Ambulance) you require. These calls are free from any phone.
MAIL/POST
Post offices are generally open Mondays to Fridays, 9.30am to 5.30pm and Saturday mornings, 9.30am to 12.30pm. Royal Mail pricing is now based on the size of a letter as well as the more traditional weight, for example Postcard/standard small-letter second-class rate: UK 50p (up to 100g that are no more than 5mm thick and up to C5 in size), overseas 88p. If you are unsure, you will need to go in person to a post office or visit www.royalmail.com for details. Stamps are available from post offices, newsagents and tobacconists, and some supermarkets. Poste restante items are held for 14 days; proof of identity is required. Airmail delivery usually takes 3 to 4 days in Europe and 4 to 7 days elsewhere in the world.
MONEY
Banks
Banks are generally open from Mondays to Fridays, 9.30am to 3.30pm; some banks offer a limited service on Saturday mornings; all banks are closed on Sundays and bank holidays. Most banks have cash dispensers (ATMs) that accept international credit cards; most do not charge a fee for cash withdrawals (be sure to look for a notice to that effect).
Exchange facilities outside these hours are available at airports, currency exchange companies, travel agencies and hotels.
Some form of identification is necessary when cashing travellers’ cheques in banks. Commission charges vary; hotels usually charge more than banks.
Credit Cards
The main credit cards (American Express, Access/Mastercard/Visa/Barclaycard) are widely accepted in shops, hotels, restaurants and petrol stations; Diners Club is less accepted. Most banks have cash dispensers which accept international credit cards.
Currency
The official currency in Great Britain is the pound sterling. The decimal system (100 pence = £1) is used throughout Great Britain; Scotland has different notes including £1 and £100 notes, which are legal tender outside Scotland, though you may well have difficulty getting English shopkeepers to accept them; the Channel Islands and Isle of Man have different notes and coins, which are not valid elsewhere.
The common currency – in descending order of value – is £50, £20, £10 and £5 (notes); £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p (silver coins) and 2p and 1p (copper coins).
The Euro is accepted in several larger stores in London but check the rate of exchange if planning to make large purchases.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
The table opposite gives the public (bank) holidays in England and Wales, when most shops and municipal museums are closed.
In addition to the usual school holidays in the spring and summer and at Christmas, there are half-term breaks in February, May and October.
SMOKING
It is illegal to smoke in all public places, including the great British pub. Most, however, provide some kind of outdoor shelter for smokers.
TAX
Vat
Many stores in London, Edinburgh and other tourist cities and towns participate in the Retail Export Scheme (look for the sign “Tax-Free Shopping”). This means that customers may be entitled to receive a refund of VAT paid on goods (currently 20 percent) exported to destinations outside the European Union. There is no statutory minimum sale value although retailers may set a minimum transaction value (normally around £75) below which they will not operate the scheme. Ask the sales assistant for the form for reclaiming the tax.
Fill in the form, keep it safe and present it again at the point of exit from the UK for the refund to be passed on to you. Note that VAT refunds cannot be processed after you return home.
Gift Aid and donations
Gift Aid is a government scheme of tax relief on money donated to UK charities, which since 2007 may be applied at the entrance to visitor attractions with charitable status. The scheme is only for UK taxpayers and in most cases you will be asked for your postcode and name, which will then be verified instantly (electronically) by a machine at the site entrance in order to minimise waiting time. You will then be given the choice of buying a ticket with or without gift aid. The former is usually 10 percent higher, though (somewhat confusingly) you may also be offered the ticket at the same price with the option of free readmission for a year! This is a loophole which means that the site can still reclaim Gift Aid without asking their customers to pay any more for admission. Beware that in some cases you may be asked for the gift aid inclusive price straight away, thus putting the onus on you to ask for the cheaper ticket. If so, remember there is absolutely no obligation for you to pay the higher amount (and if you are an overseas visitor the scheme does not apply to you anyway).
United States Dollars, Great Britain Pound and Euros
© omnimarketing / iStockphoto.com
In a few instances if you do choose to pay the higher price you may be given an incentive to pay the higher price in the form of a voucher redeemable in the shop, or against refreshments. If you spend the full amount of this voucher (which in most cases will only amount to the price of a coffee or less), then you will pay less overall but the charity/visitor attraction will still gain extra revenue.
Beware also that regardless of Gift Aid some historical attractions lead with a price that includes a 'charitable donation'. Remember that you are under no obligation to pay this; simply ask for the standard price ticket instead.
Within this guidebook we have given entry prices without gift aid or charitable donations.
TIME
In winter, standard time throughout the British Isles is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). In summer clocks are advanced by an hour to give British Summer Time (BST). The actual dates are announced annually but always occur at the weekend in March and October.
TIPPING
Although Britain has not historically been a tip-conscious nation, it is generally accepted that 10 percent is the norm for most services (waiters, taxi-drivers, guides…) with £1–2 upwards to baggage porters etc.
Many restaurants will add a service charge ('service included') of 10 per cent or even 12.5 per cent to the final bill. In this case, no further tip is necessary and you are completely within your legal rights to withhold all or part of this if the service has not been to your satisfaction. If you want to make sure the staff (as opposed to the management) get the tip, give it in cash. Bar staff are not generally tipped, though if the service has been good and you have had several drinks over the course of an evening you may ask the bartender if they would like a drink (they may just take the cash equivalent) or you might tell them to keep the change.
Kilchurn Castle, Scotland
© Wolfgang Fuchs / Bilderberg / Photononstop
