Though sprawling and congested, Athens has a compact, pleasant tourist zone capped by the famous Acropolis—the world’s top ancient site. In this historic town, you’ll walk in the footsteps of the great minds that created democracy, philosophy, theater, and more...even when you’re dodging motorcycles on “pedestrianized” streets. Romantics can’t help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates’ sandals, with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead.
Many tourists visit Athens without ever venturing beyond the Plaka (Old Town) and the ancient zone. With limited time, this is not a bad plan, as greater Athens offers few sights (other than the excellent National Archaeological Museum). But for a more authentic taste of the city, visit the fun, thriving districts of Thissio, Psyrri, and Gazi.
Because of its prominent position on the tourist trail and the irrepressible Greek spirit of hospitality, the city is user-friendly. It seems that virtually all Athenians speak English, major landmarks are well-signed, and most street signs are in both Greek and English.
Ninety-five percent of Athens is noisy, polluted modern sprawl, jammed with characterless, poorly planned, and hastily erected concrete suburbs that house the area’s rapidly expanding population. The construction of the Metro for the 2004 Olympics was, in many ways, the first time urban planners had ever attempted to tie the city together and treat it as a united entity.
But most visitors never see that part of Athens. In fact, you can pretend that Athens is the same small, charming village at the foot of the Acropolis as it was a century ago. Almost everything of importance to tourists is within a few blocks of the Acropolis. As you explore this city-within-a-city on foot, you’ll realize just how small it is.
A good map is a necessity for enjoying Athens on foot. The fine map the TI gives out works great. Get a good map and use it.
The Athens you’ll be spending your time in includes the following districts:
The Plaka (PLAH-kah, Πλάκα): This neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis is the core of the tourist’s Athens. One of the only parts of town that’s atmospheric and Old World-feeling, it’s also the most crassly touristic. Its streets are lined with souvenir shops, tacky tavernas, a smattering of small museums, ancient Greek and Roman ruins, and pooped tourists. The Plaka’s narrow, winding streets can be confusing at first, but you can’t get too lost with a monument the size of the Acropolis looming overhead to keep you oriented. Think of the Plaka as Athens with training wheels for tourists. While some visitors are mesmerized by the Plaka, others find it obnoxious and enjoy venturing outside it for a change of scenery.
Monastiraki (moh-nah-stee-RAH-kee, Μοναστηρακι): This area (“Little Monastery”) borders the Plaka to the northwest, surrounding the square of the same name. It’s known for its handy Metro stop (where line 1/green meets line 3/blue), seedy flea market, and souvlaki stands. The Ancient Agora is nearby (roughly between Monastiraki and Thissio).
Psyrri (psee-REE, Ψυρή): Formerly a dumpy ghetto just north of Monastiraki, Psyrri is emerging as a cutting-edge nightlife and dining district. Don’t be put off by the crumbling, graffiti-slathered buildings...this is one of central Athens’ most appealing areas to explore after dark, and for now, locals still outnumber tourists here.
Syntagma (SEEN-dag-mah, Συνταγμα): Centered on Athens’ main square, Syntagma (“Constitution”) Square, this urban-feeling zone melts into the Plaka to the south. While the Plaka is dominated by tourist shops, Syntagma is where local urbanites do their shopping. Syntagma is bounded to the east by the Parliament building and the vast National Garden.
Thissio (thee-SEE-oh, Θησείο): West of the Ancient Agora, Thissio is an upscale, local-feeling residential neighborhood with piles of outdoor cafés and restaurants. It’s easily accessible thanks to the handy pedestrian walkway bordering the base of the Acropolis.
Gazi (GAH-zee, Γκάζι): At the western edge of the tourist’s Athens (just beyond Thissio and Psyrri), Gazi is trendy, artsy, and gay-friendly. Its centerpiece is a former gasworks-turned-events center called Technopolis.
Makrigianni (mah-kree-YAH-nee, Μακρυγιάννη) and Koukaki (koo-KAH-kee, Κουκάκι): Tucked just behind (south of) the Acropolis, these overlapping, nondescript urban neighborhoods have a lived-in charm of their own. They’re so nondescript that many locals just call Makrigianni the “south Plaka.” If you want to escape the crowds of the Plaka, this area—with fine hotels and restaurants within easy walking distance of the ancient sites—makes a good home base.
Kolonaki (koh-loh-NAH-kee, Κολωνάκι): Just north and east of the Parliament/Syntagma Square area, this upscale diplomatic quarter is home to several good museums and a yuppie dining zone. It’s huddled under the tall, pointy Lykavittos Hill, which challenges the Acropolis for domination of the skyline.
Exarchia (ex-AR-hee-yah, Εξάρχεια): Just beyond Kolonaki is a rough-and-funky student zone. The home of many protesters grabbing Greek headlines, it’s a fascinating but not-for-everyone glimpse into an Athens that few tourists experience.
Major Streets: Various major streets define the tourist’s Athens. The base of the Acropolis is partially encircled by a broad traffic-free walkway, named Dionysiou Areopagitou (Διονυσίου Αρεοπαγίτου) to the south and Apostolou Pavlou (Αποστόλου Παύλου) to the west; for simplicity, I call these the “Acropolis Loop.” Touristy Adrianou street (Αδριανού) curves through the Plaka a few blocks away from the Acropolis’ base. Partly pedestrianized Ermou street (Ερμού) runs west from Syntagma Square, defining the Plaka, Monastiraki, and Thissio to the south and Psyrri to the north. Where Ermou meets Monastiraki, Athinas street (Αθηνάς) heads north to Omonia Square. The tourist zone is hemmed in to the east by a series of major highways: The north–south Vasilissis Amalias avenue (Βασιλίσσης Αμαλίας) runs between the National Garden and the Plaka/Syntagma area. To the south, it jogs around the Temple of Olympian Zeus and becomes Syngrou avenue (Συγγρού). To the north, at the Parliament, it forks: The eastward branch, Vasilissis Sofias (Βασιλίσσης Σοφίας), heads past some fine museums to Kolonaki; the northbound branch, Panepistimiou (usually signed by its official name, Eleftheriou Venizelou, Eλευθερίου Βενιζέλου), angles northwest past the library and university buildings to Omonia Square.
Although Athens is a big city, its sights can be seen quickly. The top sights—the Acropolis/Ancient Agora, the Acropolis Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum—deserve a half-day each. Two days total is plenty of time for the casual tourist to see the city’s main attractions. When setting up your itinerary, keep in mind that the Acropolis Museum is closed on Monday. To enhance your experience, consider downloading my free audio tours of my Athens City Walk and the major sights (see here).
Day 1: In the morning, follow my Athens City Walk. Grab a souvlaki lunch near Monastiraki, and spend midday in the markets (shopping in the Plaka, browsing in the Central Market, and wandering through the flea market—best on Sun). After lunch, as the crowds (and heat) subside, visit the ancient biggies: First tour the Ancient Agora, then hike up to the Acropolis (confirming carefully how late the Acropolis is open, as hours can change without notice). Be the last person off the Acropolis. Stroll down the Dionysiou Areopagitou pedestrian boulevard, then promenade to dinner—in Thissio, Monastiraki, Psyrri, or the Plaka.
Day 2: Spend the morning visiting the Acropolis Museum and exploring the Plaka. After lunch, head to the National Archaeological Museum.
Day 3: Museum lovers will want more time to visit other archaeological sites, museums, and galleries. The city has many “also-ran” museums that reward patient sightseers. I’d suggest heading out toward Kolonaki to take in the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture, Museum of Cycladic Art, and Byzantine and Christian Museum (and the nearby National War Museum, if you’re interested).
Note that a third (or fourth) day could also be used for the long but satisfying side-trip by bus to Delphi or a quick getaway by boat to the isle of Hydra—each more interesting than a third or fourth day in Athens. But these sights—and many others—are better as an overnight stop. For suggestions on an itinerary that gets you out of Athens, see here.
The Greek National Tourist Organization (EOT), with its main branch near the Acropolis Museum, covers Athens and the rest of the country. Pick up their handy city map, the helpful Athens City Guide booklet, and their slick, glossy book on Athens (all free). Although their advice can be hit-or-miss, they do have stacks of informative handouts on museums, entertainment options, bus and train connections, and much more (April-Oct Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00; Nov-March Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00; on pedestrian street leading to Acropolis Museum at Dionysiou Areopagitou 18-20, Metro line 2/red: Akropoli; tel. 210-331-0392, www.visitgreece.gr, info@gnto.gr).
Helpful Websites: Though not officially part of the TI, Matt Barrett’s Athens Survival Guide (www.athensguide.com) is a great resource for anyone visiting Greece. Matt, who splits his time between North Carolina and Greece, splashes through his adopted hometown like a kid in a wading pool, enthusiastically sharing his discoveries and observations on his generous website. While his practical information isn’t always the most up-to-date, his perspectives and advice are top-notch. Matt covers emerging neighborhoods that few visitors venture into, and offers offbeat angles on the city and recommendations for vibrant, untouristy restaurants. He also blogs about his latest impressions on the city.
Other useful websites, some of which you may also see in print form around town, are Athens in Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com/greece/athens), Athens Today (www.athens-today.com), and the online version of the bimonthly Greek lifestyle magazine Odyssey (www.odyssey.gr).
For information on arriving in (or departing from) Athens by plane, boat, bus, train, or car, see the Athens Connections chapter.
Because Athens is such a huge city, you’ll likely use public transportation to reach farther-flung destinations (such as the National Archaeological Museum, the port of Piraeus, or the airport). But most travelers on a short visit find they don’t need to take any public transit at all, once they’re settled into their hotel—the tourists’ core of Athens is surprisingly walkable.
For information on all of Athens’ public transportation, see www.oasa.gr. Beware of pickpockets on public transportation.
The Metro is the most straightforward way to get around Athens. Just look for signs with a blue M in a green circle. The Metro is slick, user-friendly, and new-feeling—mostly built, renovated, or expanded for the 2004 Olympics. Signs are in both Greek and English, as are announcements inside subway cars. Trains run about every five minutes on weekdays, and about every 10 minutes on weekends (Sun-Thu 5:00-24:20, Fri-Sat 5:00-2:20 in the morning, www.stasy.gr).
You can buy tickets at machines or from ticket windows. The basic ticket (€1.40) is good for 1.5 hours on all public transit, including buses and trams, and covers transfers. Note that you’ll need a pricier €8 ticket to go all the way to the airport (€14/two people; see here). If planning more than three rides in a day, consider the 24-hour ticket (€4; does not include airport). For a longer visit with lots of travel, you might get your money’s worth with a one-week ticket (€14; no airport). Also consider the three-day tourist ticket (€20), which does include a round-trip airport transfer by Metro or Express bus #X95 as well as unlimited in-city travel on all Metro lines (red, blue, and green), the suburban railway (Proastiakos), the trolley, and bus. This ticket is available at the following Metro stations: Airport, Syntagma, Acropolis, Monastiraki, Thissio, Omonia, and Piraeus. Be sure to stamp your ticket in a validation machine, usually located near the ticket booth, before you board (tickets only need to be stamped the first time). Those riding without a ticket (or with an unstamped ticket) are subject to stiff fines.
The three Metro lines are color-coded and numbered. Use the end-of-the-line stops to figure out which direction you need to go.
Line 1 (green) runs from the port of Piraeus in the southwest to Kifissia in the northern suburbs. Because this is an older line—officially called ISAP or electrical train (elektrikos) rather than Metro—it’s slower than the other two lines. Key stops include Piraeus (boats to the islands), Thissio (enjoyable neighborhood with good restaurants and nightlife), Monastiraki (city center), Victoria (10-minute walk from National Archaeological Museum), and Irini (Olympic Stadium). You can transfer to line 2 at Omonia and to line 3 at Monastiraki. (Confusingly, on line 1, the Monastiraki stop is labeled “Monastirion.”)
Line 2 (red) runs from Anthoupoli in the northwest to Helliniko (Elliniko) in the southeast. Important stops include Larissis (train station), Syntagma (city center), Akropoli (Acropolis and Makrigianni/Koukaki hotel neighborhood), and Syngrou-Fix (Makrigianni/Koukaki hotels). Transfer to line 1 at Omonia and to line 3 at Syntagma.
Line 3 (blue) runs from Aghia Marina in the west to the airport in the east. Important stops are Keramikos (near Keramikos Cemetery and the lively Gazi district), Monastiraki (city center), Syntagma (city center), Evangelismos (Kolonaki neighborhood, with Byzantine and Christian Museum and National War Museum), and the Airport (requires a separate ticket). Transfer to line 1 at Monastiraki and to line 2 at Syntagma.
Athens has many forms of public transit, but their usefulness is limited for visitors sticking to the city center sightseeing zone.
Public buses can help connect the dots between Metro stops, though the city center is so walkable that most visitors never ride one. A one-way, bus-only ticket costs €1.20; buy tickets in advance, either from a special ticket kiosk or at a Metro station. Some of the newsstands that dot the streets sell bus tickets as well. Tickets must be validated in the orange machines as you board. In general, I’d avoid buses, which are slow and overcrowded, with a few exceptions: Bus #035 takes you from Athinas street near Monastiraki to the National Archaeological Museum, and bus #224 links to the museum from Syntagma Square. Bus #X95 zips between the airport and Syntagma Square, and bus #X96 connects the airport with Piraeus (airport buses are €5 each; for details see the Athens Connections chapter). Local buses can also get you to Athens’ two major intercity bus terminals, though I’d recommend taking a taxi unless you’re on the tightest of budgets.
The Athens Coastal Tram—essentially worthless to tourists—starts at Syntagma and runs 18 miles through the neighborhoods of Neos Kosmos and Nea Smyrni, emerging at the sea near Paleo Faliro. From there it splits: One branch heads north, to the modern stadium and Olympic coastal complex in Neo Faliro; the other runs south, past the marinas and beaches to the Voula neighborhood. The price depends on how many stops you’re going (www.stasy.gr).
The city also has various suburban rail lines, but you’re unlikely to need them. If you need details, talk to the TI or your hotelier.
Despite the vulgar penchant cabbies here have for ripping off tourists, Athens is a great taxi town. Its yellow taxis are cheap and handy (€3.20 minimum charge covers most short rides in town; after that it’s €0.68/km, plus surcharges: €1 from Piraeus passenger ports and train and bus stations, €2.30 from the airport, €5.20 from cruise terminal at Piraeus). The €0.68 per kilometer day rate (tariff 1 on the meter) doubles between midnight and 5:00 in the morning (tariff 2). You’ll also pay the double rate outside the city limits, and you’re responsible for any tolls incurred by the driver (such as on the speedy road to the airport). Baggage costs €0.40 for each item over 10 kilograms (about 22 pounds).
In a semi-legal local custom, Athens’ cabbies double up, picking up additional passengers headed the same way. Unfortunately, sharing the cab with strangers doesn’t mean sharing the fare. The cabbie makes more and the passengers save nothing. Still, this makes it easier to find an available cab. You can simply hail any taxi, empty or not, and if your destination works for the cabbie, he’ll welcome you in.
Hotels and restaurants can order you a cab, but there’s a €2 surcharge to call for a taxi (“radio-taxi”). Warning: Cabbies may try to cheat you by saying the surcharge is €5. Hold firm, and they will take the €2.
Theft Alert: Be wary of pickpockets, particularly in crowds, at the Monastiraki flea market, at the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, on major public transit routes (such as the Metro between the city and Piraeus), and at the port. The main streets through the Plaka—such as Adrianou and Pandrossou—attract as many pickpockets as tourists.
Bar Alert: Single male travelers are strongly advised to stay away from bars recommended by strangers encountered on the street. Multilingual con men prowl Syntagma Square and the Plaka looking for likely dupes. They pretend that they, too, are strangers in town who just happen to have stumbled upon a “great little bar.” You’ll end up at a sleazy bar and be coerced into paying for bottles of overpriced champagne for your new “friend” and the improbably attractive women who inevitably appear.
Traffic Alert: Streets that appear to be “traffic-free” often are shared by motorcycles or moped drivers gingerly easing their machines through crowds. Keep your wits about you, and don’t step into a street—even those that feel pedestrian-friendly—without looking both ways.
Slippery Streets Alert: Athens (and other Greek towns) have some marble-like streets and red pavement tiles that become very slick when it rains. Watch your step.
Emergency Help: The Tourist Police have a 24-hour help-line in English and other languages for emergencies (tel. 171). Their office, south of the Acropolis in the Makrigianni/Koukaki district, is open 24 hours daily (Veikou 43-45, tel. 210-920-0724). The American Embassy may also be able to help (tel. 210-721-2951).
Shorter Hours at Major Sights: The hours for sights in Greece are constantly in flux, and with cuts to government spending, many sights have adopted reduced hours (closing in mid-afternoon). Some sights may follow their off-season hours even during peak season. I’ve listed the posted hours, but be aware that these hours are likely to change. Check locally for the most up-to-date information.
Free Sights: The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments, Art Tower contemporary gallery, National Garden, and all of the churches (Cathedral, Church of Kapnikarea, and Church of Agios Eleftherios) have no entry fee.
Sights and museums run by the state, including the Acropolis, are free on certain days: all national holidays and on the first Sunday of the month during off-season (Nov-March).
Internet Access: Bits and Bytes, in the heart of the Plaka, has plenty of terminals, a peaceful folk/jazz ambience, and air-conditioning (€2 minimum, €2.50/hour, can burn your digital photos to a CD or DVD, open 24 hours daily, just off Agora Square at Kapnikareas 19, tel. 210-325-3142). At Syntagma Square, Ivis Travel has several Internet terminals (€2/30 minutes, €3/hour, €2 minimum, daily 8:00-22:00, upstairs at Mitropoleos 3—look for signs, tel. 210-324-3365). See the map on here for both locations.
Post Offices: The most convenient post office for travelers is at Syntagma Square (Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00, Sat 7:30-14:00, Sun 9:00-13:30, bottom of the square, at corner with Mitropoleos). Smaller neighborhood offices with shorter hours (generally Mon-Fri 7:30-14:00 or 14:30, closed Sat-Sun) are in Monastiraki (Mitropoleos 58) and Makrigianni (Dionysiou Areopagitou 7).
Bookshops: Eleftheroudakis (ΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΟΥΔΑΚΗΣ) is Greece’s answer to Barnes & Noble, with a great selection of travel guides and maps, along with a lot of English books (Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun, 3 blocks north of Syntagma Square at Panepistimiou/Eleftheriou Venizelou 15, tel. 210-323-3861 or 210-323-3862, www.books.gr). Public at Syntagma Square offers a reasonable variety of English books (tel. 210-324-6210, www.public.gr). For locations, see the map on here.
Laundry: A full-service launderette, on Apollonos Street in the heart of the Plaka, will wash, dry, and fold your clothes (€4/kilogram, typical load about €18, same-day service if you drop off by noon; Mon and Wed 8:00-17:00, Tue and Thu-Fri 8:00-20:00, closed Sat-Sun; Apollonos 17, tel. 210-323-2226). Athens Studios, near the Acropolis Museum, operates a self-service launderette (wash-€5/load, dry-€2/load, daily 8:00-23:00, Veikou 3A, tel. 210-922-4044).
Updates to This Book: For news about changes to this book’s coverage since it was published, see www.ricksteves.com/update.
To sightsee on your own, download my series of free audio tours that illuminate some of Athens’ top sights and neighborhoods, including the Acropolis, the Agora, the National Archaeological Museum, and my Athens City Walk (see sidebar on here).
Various companies offer half-day, bus-plus-walking tours of Athens for €52-55 (about 4 hours, including a guided visit to the Acropolis). Add a guided tour of the Acropolis Museum, and the price goes up to €68.
Some companies also offer a night city tour that finishes with dinner and folk dancing at a taverna (€63) and a 90-mile round-trip evening drive down the coast to Cape Sounion for the sunset at the Temple of Poseidon (€43, 4 hours—not worth the time if visiting ancient sites elsewhere in Greece). The buses pick up passengers at various points around town and near most hotels.
The most established operations include the well-regarded Hop In (modern comfy buses, narration usually English only, tel. 210-428-5500, www.hopin.com), CHAT Tours (tel. 210-323-0827, www.chatours.gr), Key Tours (tel. 210-923-3166, www.keytours.gr), and GO Tours (tel. 210-921-9555, www.gotours.com.gr). It’s convenient to book tours through your hotel; most act as a booking agent for at least one tour company. While hotels do snare a commission, some offer discounts to their guests.
Beyond Athens: Some of these companies also offer day-long tours to Delphi and to Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidavros (either tour €101 with lunch, €91 without), two-day tours to the monasteries of Meteora (€162-190), and more. Olympic Traveller offers personalized tours to Olympia, Mycenae, or Delphi (reasonable rates, mobile 697-320-1213, www.olympictraveller.com, info@olympictraveller.com; with-it, charming guides Christos and Niki).
Two companies compete for the usual hop-on, hop-off bus tour business, both charging €18 for a 24-hour ticket: CitySightseeing Athens (tel. 210-922-0604, www.citysightseeing.gr) and Athens City Tour (tel. 210-881-5207, www.athens-citytour.com). The main stop for both buses is on Syntagma Square, though you can hop on and buy your ticket at any stop—look for signs around town. Since most of the major sights in Athens are within easy walking distance of the Plaka, I’d use this only if I wanted an overview of the city or had extra time to get to the outlying sights.
Two different trains do a sightseeing circuit through Athens’ tourist zone. As these goofy little trains can go where big buses can’t, they can be useful for people with limited mobility. The Sunshine Express train runs about hourly; catch it on Aiolou street along the Hadrian’s Library fence at Agora Square (€5, 40-minute loop, departs hourly; May-Sept Mon-Fri 11:30-14:30 & 17:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00; Oct-April Sat-Sun only). The Athens Happy Train is similar, but it offers hop-on, hop-off privileges at a few strategic stops (€6, full loop takes 1 hour, 2/hour, daily 9:00-24:00; catch it at the bottom of Syntagma Square, at Monastiraki Square, or just below the Acropolis; www.athenshappytrain.com).
Athens Walking Tours offers two basic walks: the Acropolis and City Tour (€36 plus entry fees, daily at 9:30, 3 hours, departs from Syntagma Metro station, under hanging clock one level down) and Acropolis Museum tour (€29 plus entry fee, Tue-Sun at 13:30, 1.25 hours, meet inside museum, in front of cash desk). Those with energy can sign up for a combo version of these tours (€53, Tue-Sun at 9:30, 5.5 hours, reserve in advance, tel. 210-884-7269, mobile 694-585-9662, www.athenswalkingtours.gr, Despina).
Context Athens’ “intellectual by design” walking tours are geared for serious learners and led by “docents” (historians, architects, and academics) rather than by guides. They cover ancient sites and museums and offer themed walks with topics ranging from food to architecture to the Byzantine era. Their Orientation to Athens tour touches on most of these themes while giving you an overview of the city’s highlights (€65-70 plus entry fees, generally 3 hours, US tel. 800-691-6036, www.contexttravel.com/city/athens).
A good private guide can bring Athens’ sights to life. Effie Perperi is a fine choice (€50/hour, tel. 210-951-2566, mobile 697-739-6659, effieperperi@gmail.com). Faye Georgiou is another good Athens guide who really knows her archaeology (€50/hour, tel. 210-674-5837, mobile 697-768-5503, fayegeorgiou@yahoo.gr), as does energetic Anastasia Gaitanou (€50/hour, mobile 694-446-3109, anastasia2570@yahoo.com).
