Map: Top Destinations in Greece
Traveling as a Temporary Local
Democracy and mathematics. Medicine and literature. Theater and astronomy. Mythology and philosophy. All of these, and more, were first thought up by a bunch of tunic-clad Greeks in a small village huddled at the base of the Acropolis. The ancient Greeks—who reached their apex in the city of Athens—have had an unmatched impact on European and American culture. For many North American travelers, coming to Greece is like a pilgrimage to the cradle of our civilization.
A century and a half ago, Athens was a humble, forgotten city of about 8,000 people. Today it’s the teeming home of nearly four million Greeks. The city is famous for its sprawl, noise, graffiti, and pollution. The best advice to tourists has long been to see the big sights, then get out. But over the last decade or so, the city has made a concerted effort to curb pollution, clean up and pedestrianize the streets, spiff up the museums, and invest in one of Europe’s better public transit systems. All of these urban upgrades reached a peak as Athens hosted the 2004 Olympic Games.
And yet, the conventional wisdom still holds true: Athens is a great city to see...but not to linger in. This book also includes the best Greek destinations outside the capital, including the highlights of the Peloponnese—Greece’s heartland peninsula, the site of the ancient oracle at Delphi, and the castaway islands of Hydra, Mykonos, and Santorini.
Greece’s economic woes continue to make headlines, but for travelers the news is (almost) all good. The occasional strike or protest rarely interferes with the sightseer’s Greece, and hotel prices are at record lows. Now is a great time to visit.
In this book, I’ll give you all the information and opinions necessary to wring the maximum value out of your limited time and money. If you plan two weeks or less in this part of Greece and have a normal appetite for information, this book is all you need. If you’re a travel-info fiend, this book sorts through all the superlatives and provides a handy rack upon which to hang your supplemental information.
Use this legend to help you navigate the maps in this book.
The destinations covered in this book are balanced to include a comfortable mix of cities and villages, ancient sites and Byzantine churches, great museums and relaxing beaches. While you’ll find the predictable biggies (such as the Acropolis and ancient Olympia), I’ve also mixed in a healthy dose of Back Door intimacy (workaday towns such as Kardamyli, rustic seaside viewpoints, and neighborhood tavernas where you’ll enjoy a warm welcome).
The best is, of course, only my opinion. But after spending a third of my adult life exploring and researching Europe, I’ve developed a sixth sense for what travelers enjoy. The places featured in this book will make anyone want to shout, “Opa!”
Rick Steves’ Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese is a personal tour guide in your pocket. This book is organized by destinations. Each destination is a mini-vacation on its own, filled with exciting sights, strollable neighborhoods, affordable places to stay, and memorable places to eat.
The first half of this book focuses on Athens and contains the following chapters:
Greece offers an introduction to this mesmerizing land, including a crash course in the Greek alphabet.
Orientation to Athens includes specifics on public transportation, helpful hints, local tour options, easy-to-read maps, and tourist information. The “Planning Your Time” section suggests a schedule for how to best use your limited time.
Sights in Athens describes the top attractions and includes their cost and hours.
This book is updated regularly, but things change. For the latest, visit www.ricksteves.com/update.
I use the following symbols and abbreviations in this book:
Sights are rated:
| ▲▲▲ | Don’t miss |
| ▲▲ | Try hard to see |
| ▲ | Worthwhile if you can make it |
| No rating | Worth knowing about |
Tourist information offices are abbreviated as TI, and bathrooms are WCs. To categorize accommodations, I use a Sleep Code (described on here).
Like Greece, this book uses the 24-hour clock for schedules. It’s the same through 12:00 noon, then keeps going: 13:00, 14:00, and so on. For anything over 12, subtract 12 and add p.m. (14:00 is 2:00 p.m.).
When giving opening times, I include both peak season and off-season hours if they differ. So, if a museum is listed as “May-Oct daily 9:00-16:00,” it should be open from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. from the first day of May until the last day of October (but expect exceptions).
If you see a 
symbol near a sight listing, it means that sight is described in far greater detail elsewhere—either with its own self-guided tour, or as part of a self-guided walk.
For transit or tour departures, I first list the frequency, then the duration. So, a bus connection listed as “2/hour, 1.5 hours” departs twice each hour, and the journey lasts an hour and a half.
Self-Guided Walks and Tours take you through interesting neighborhoods, pointing out sights and fun stops. In Athens these include a city walk, the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, the Acropolis Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum.
Sleeping in Athens describes my favorite hotels, from good-value rooms to cushy splurges.
Eating in Athens serves up a range of options, from inexpensive tavernas to fancy restaurants.
Shopping in Athens gives you tips for shopping painlessly and enjoyably, without letting it overwhelm your vacation or ruin your budget.
Nightlife in Athens is your guide to evening fun, including music, folk dances, outdoor movies, and bustling nighttime neighborhoods.
Athens Connections covers how to get to nearby destinations by car or bus, and includes information on getting to and from Athens’ airport.
The Peloponnese section includes in-depth chapters on the historic peninsula’s top sights: Nafplio, Epidavros, Mycenae, Olympia, Kardamyli and the Mani Peninsula, and Monemvasia.
The Beyond Athens & the Peloponnese section covers the ancient oracle site at Delphi and the idyllic islands of Hydra, Mykonos, and Santorini.
The Greek History and Mythology chapter gives you a quick overview of the country’s past.
The appendix is a traveler’s tool kit, with telephone tips, useful phone numbers and websites, transportation basics (on buses, boats, car rentals, driving, and flights), recommended books and films, a festival list, a climate chart, a handy packing checklist, and Greek survival phrases.
Browse through this book, choose your favorite destinations, and link them up. Then have a great trip! Traveling like a temporary local, you’ll get the absolute most of every mile, minute, and dollar. As you visit places I know and love, I’m happy that you’ll be meeting some of my favorite Greek people.
This section will help you get started on planning your trip—with advice on trip costs, when to go, and what you should know before you take off.
Your trip to Greece is like a complex play—it’s easier to follow and really appreciate on a second viewing. While no one does the same trip twice to gain that advantage, reading this book in its entirety before your trip accomplishes much the same thing.
Design an itinerary that enables you to visit the various sights at the best possible times. Note festivals, holidays, specifics on sights, and days when sights are closed—for example, many museums are either closed or open limited hours on Mondays. To get between destinations smoothly, read the tips in this book’s appendix on taking buses or renting a car and driving. A smart trip is a puzzle—a fun, doable, and worthwhile challenge.
When you’re plotting your itinerary, strive for a mix of intense and relaxed stretches. To maximize rootedness, minimize one-night stands. It’s worth taking a long drive after dinner (or a bus ride with a dinner picnic) to get settled in a town for two nights. Every trip—and every traveler—needs slack time (for laundry, picnics, people-watching, and so on). Pace yourself. Assume you will return.
Reread this book as you travel, and visit local tourist information offices (abbreviated as TI in this book). Upon arrival in a new town, lay the groundwork for a smooth departure; get the schedule for the bus or boat you’ll take when you depart. Drivers can study the best route to their next destination.
Get online at Internet cafés or at your hotel, and carry a mobile phone (or use a phone card) to make travel plans: You can get tourist information, learn the latest on sights (special events, tour schedules, etc.), book tickets and tours, make reservations, reconfirm hotels, research transportation connections, and keep in touch with your loved ones.
Enjoy the hospitality of the Greek people. Connect with the culture. Set up your own quest to find the best baklava, Byzantine church, or secluded beach. Slow down and be open to unexpected experiences. Ask questions—most locals are eager to point you in their idea of the right direction. Keep a notepad in your pocket for noting directions, organizing your thoughts, and confirming prices. Wear your money belt, learn the currency, and figure out how to estimate prices in dollars. Those who expect to travel smart, do.
Five components make up your trip costs: airfare, surface transportation, room and board, sightseeing and entertainment, and shopping and miscellany.
Airfare: A basic round-trip flight from the US to Athens can cost, on average, about $1,000-1,800, depending on where you fly from and when (cheaper in winter). If your trip extends beyond Greece, consider saving time and money in Europe by flying into one city and out of another (for example, into Paris and out of Athens). Note that if you’re visiting only Greece, the airport at Athens is your most convenient way in and out of the country.
Surface Transportation: If you’re just touring Athens, you can get around easily on foot and on the Metro (plan on $30 for three full days in Athens and a round-trip ticket to/from the airport). If you’re venturing beyond the capital—say, doing a two-week loop of this book’s destinations—figure per-person costs of $150 by public transit (boat to Hydra, bus to everything else) or $400 by car (based on two people sharing a rental car, not including tolls, gas, and insurance). Car rentals are cheapest if arranged from the US. For more on public transportation and car rentals, see “Transportation” in the appendix. For information on flights, see “See “Getting Around the Greek Islands” (here).
Room and Board: You can thrive in Greece on $100 a day per person for room and board (less on the Peloponnese). This allows $15 for lunch, $20 for dinner, and $65 for lodging (based on two people splitting the cost of a $130 double room that includes breakfast). Students and tightwads eat and sleep for as little as $60 a day ($30 per bed, $30 for meals and snacks).
Sightseeing and Entertainment: In Athens, figure $10-17 per major sight (Acropolis, National Archaeological Museum); $5-9 for minor ones (Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture, Byzantine and Christian Museum); and $30-70 for splurge experiences such as concerts, special art exhibits, big-bus tours, and guided walking tours. An overall average of $25 a day works for most people. Don’t skimp here. After all, this category is the driving force behind your trip—you came to sightsee, enjoy, and experience Greece.
Shopping and Miscellany: Figure 50 cents per postcard and $3-4 per coffee or ice-cream cone. Shopping can vary in cost from nearly nothing to a small fortune. Good budget travelers find that this category has little to do with assembling a trip full of lifelong and wonderful memories.
Depending on the length of your trip, and taking geographic proximity into account, here are my recommended priorities.
| 2-3 days: | Athens |
| 5 days, add: | Hydra |
| 7 days, add: | Delphi |
| 10 days, add: | Nafplio, Epidavros, Mycenae |
| 12 days, add: | Olympia, Monemvasia |
| 14 days, add: | Kardamyli and the Mani Peninsula, and slow down |
Although this book focuses on Athens and the Peloponnese, I’ve also included Mykonos and Santorini—two of Greece’s best islands—for travelers with more time.
For a suggested itinerary, see the next page.
Once you’re outside of Athens, this region is best visited by car. If you’d rather get around by bus, you’ll see less in virtually the same amount of time (or you can add more days to your itinerary to see it all).
| Best Trip by Car | ||
| Day | Plan | Sleep |
| 1 | Arrive Athens | Athens |
| 2 | Athens | Athens |
| 3 | Athens | Athens |
| 4 | Boat to Hydra | Hydra |
| 5 | Hydra | Hydra |
| 6 | Boat back to Athens, pick up rental car, drive to Delphi | Delphi |
| 7 | Sightsee Delphi, drive to Olympia | Olympia |
| 8 | Sightsee Olympia, drive to Kardamyli | Kardamyli |
| 9 | Relax in Kardamyli | Kardamyli |
| 10 | Mani Peninsula loop drive, on to Monemvasia | Monemvasia |
| 11 | Monemvasia | Monemvasia |
| 12 | See Mycenae en route to Nafplio | Nafplio |
| 13 | Nafplio, side-trip to Epidavros | Nafplio |
| 14 | Return to Athens, drop off rental car | Athens |
| 15 | Fly home, or continue to Mykonos and/or Santorini by plane or boat | |
| Best Trip by Bus | ||
| Day | Plan | Sleep |
| 1 | Arrive Athens | Athens |
| 2 | Athens | Athens |
| 3 | Athens | Athens |
| 4 | Morning in Athens, afternoon bus to Delphi | Delphi |
| 5 | Sightsee Delphi | Delphi |
| 6 | Morning bus to Athens, then boat to Hydra | Hydra |
| 7 | Hydra | Hydra |
| 8 | Morning boat back to Athens, then bus to Olympia | Olympia |
| 9 | Sightsee Olympia | Olympia |
| 10 | Morning bus to Nafplio | Nafplio |
| 11 | Day trip to Mycenae | Nafplio |
| 12 | Day trip to Epidavros | Nafplio |
| 13 | Bus to Athens | Athens |
| 14 | Fly home, or continue to Mykonos and/or Santorini by plane or boat | |
Bus Notes: Research and consider your bus connections carefully (usually easier to do on site than online); these can be limited and complicated, especially on the Peloponnese.
Two nights in Delphi offer a fine escape from big-city Athens, but if you have limited time, you can see Delphi either as a day trip on Day 4 (return to Athens to spend the night) or as a single overnight (bus from Athens to Delphi on the morning of Day 4, afternoon sightseeing and overnight in Delphi, then bus to Athens and boat to Hydra on Day 5).
The bus itinerary leaves out the hardest-to-reach destinations: Kardamyli/Mani Peninsula (best by car or with a hired local driver) and Monemvasia.
If you’ve seen enough ancient sites, you could skip Olympia (which is time-consuming to reach by bus), and instead visit Monemvasia (reachable by bus, with an extra transfer and more travel time than Olympia) or enjoy more beach time on Hydra.
The easiest connection from Hydra to the Peloponnese is via Athens, but adventurous travelers might want to tackle the cheaper and shorter, though more complicated, boat-taxi-bus connection via Nafplio instead; for tips see here.
With an extra week and a bunch of patience, you could include all of the recommended destinations.
The “summer” and “winter” seasons can vary, but summer is roughly Easter through October, when Athens can be crowded.
Peak Season: In summer, Athens is packed with tourists, and hotel prices can be correspondingly high. July and August are the hottest months.
Shoulder Season: Late spring and fall are pleasant, with comfortable weather, no rain, and lighter crowds (except during holiday weekends).
Winter Season: Weather from late October through mid-March is colder. Though rain is rare in Athens, this is the time for it. Some sights close for lunch, TI offices keep shorter hours, and some tourist activities vanish altogether. Hotel rates are soft; look for bargains.
Your trip is more likely to go smoothly if you plan ahead. Check this list of things to arrange while you’re still at home.
You need a passport—but no visa or shots—to travel in Greece. You may be denied entry into certain European countries if your passport is due to expire within three to six months of your ticketed date of return. Get it renewed if you’ll be cutting it close. It can take up to six weeks to get or renew a passport (for more on passports, see www.travel.state.gov). Pack a photocopy of your passport in your luggage in case the original is lost or stolen.
Book rooms in advance if you’ll be traveling during summer or around any major holidays (see here) or are hoping to land a particular hotel on Mykonos or Santorini, where perennial visitors often book their favorite rooms months ahead.
Call your debit- and credit-card companies to let them know the countries you’ll be visiting, to ask about fees, request your PIN code (it will be mailed to you), and more. See here for details.
Do your homework if you want to buy travel insurance. Compare the cost of the insurance to the likelihood of your using it and your potential loss if something goes wrong. Also, check whether your existing insurance (health, homeowners, or renters) covers you and your possessions overseas. For more tips, see www.ricksteves.com/insurance.
If you’re planning on renting a car in Greece, bring your driver’s license and get an International Driving Permit (see here).
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
If you’re bringing a mobile device, download any apps you might want to use on the road, such as translators, maps, and transit schedules. Check out Rick Steves Audio Europe, featuring free audio tours of major sights in Athens, hours of travel interviews on Greece, and more (via www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, Google Play, or the Rick Steves Audio Europe smartphone app; for details, see here).
Because airline carry-on restrictions are always changing, visit the Transportation Security Administration’s website (www.tsa.gov) for an up-to-date list of what you can bring on the plane with you...and what you have to check.
Emergency and Medical Help: In Greece, dial 100 or 112 for any emergency or 171 for the Tourist Police. For a medical emergency, dial 166 or 199.
The Tourist Police serves as a contact point between tourists and other branches of the police and is also responsible for handling problems such as disputes with hotels, restaurants, and other tourist services (available daily 24 hours; Athens office located south of the Acropolis in Koukaki at Veikou 43-45, office tel. 210-920-0724). If you get sick, do as the Greeks do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen railpasses or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up your digital photos and other files frequently.
Borders: You’ll go through customs if arriving on a direct flight from the US. If you’re coming from Europe, you may or may not have to go through customs, depending on which country you’re coming from. Greece is part of Europe’s open-borders Schengen Agreement, so if you fly in from another Schengen country (including all those in Western Europe and some in Eastern Europe) or take a boat from Italy, there are no passport checks. Because Greece’s neighbors are not part of the pact, you’ll go through customs coming from Turkey, Macedonia, Albania, and Bulgaria. Even as borders fade, when you change countries, you must still change telephone cards, postage stamps, and underpants.
Time Zones: Greece is generally one hour ahead of continental Europe and seven/ten hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, try www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Most shops catering to tourists are open long hours daily. Those that cater to locals are more likely open these somewhat predictable hours: Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday from 8:30 or 9:00 until early afternoon (between 14:30 and 16:00); Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from 8:30 or 9:00 until late (roughly 20:00 or 21:00), but often with an afternoon break (around 14:00-17:00 or 18:00); and closed Sunday.
Many museums and sights are closed on Monday. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US (special events, limited hours, banks and many shops closed, limited public transportation, no rush hours). Saturdays are virtually weekdays with earlier closing hours and no rush hour (though transportation connections can be less frequent than on weekdays).
Lower Your Expectations: The Greeks have been through the economic wringer over the past few years. Budget cuts have reduced staffing to a minimum at museums, ancient sites, and the few TIs that are still operating. Opening hours can be short, and the staff may be grumpy. Don’t take it personally.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe. Travel hairdryers and other small appliances are sold at Public stores (ask your hotelier for the closest branch; there’s a hard-to-miss location on Syntagma Square).
Bathroom Etiquette: There’s a reason every bathroom in Greece has a small wastebasket next to the toilet—bad plumbing. Don’t flush toilet paper; use the wastebasket instead.
Discounts: Youth, student, and senior discounts aren’t listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts for seniors (loosely defined as those who are retired or willing to call themselves a senior), groups of 10 or more, families, and students or teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org). Always ask. Children under 18 get in free at all museums and archaeological sites run by the Ministry of Greek Culture, including the Acropolis. Some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Online Translation Tip: You can use Google’s Chrome browser (available free at www.google.com/chrome) to instantly translate websites. With one click, the page appears in (very rough) English translation. You can also paste the URL of the site into the translation window at www.google.com/translate.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card as a backup, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
For an emergency stash, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in easy-to-exchange $20 bills. If you have to exchange the bills, go to a bank; avoid using currency-exchange booths (lousy rates and/or outrageous fees).
Greece is practically a cash-only destination. Most small businesses (hotels, restaurants, and shops) require payment in cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash. But stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, Cardpoint, and Cashzone, which charge huge commissions and have terrible exchange rates.
To withdraw money from an ATM (surprisingly labeled ATM in the Greek alphabet), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code. Know your PIN code in numbers—there are no letters on European keypads. Although you can use a credit card for an ATM transaction, it only makes sense in an emergency, because it’s considered a cash advance (borrowed at a high interest rate) rather than a withdrawal. Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of per-transaction bank fees you’ll pay.
For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a “skimming” device to capture account information). Some travelers make a point of monitoring their accounts while traveling to detect any unauthorized transactions.
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
Your debit card is particularly essential in Greece. Credit cards are rarely accepted by most businesses, except for the priciest and most touristy hotels and restaurants (and in those cases, Visa and MasterCard are preferred over American Express).
In Greece, I use my credit card only in a few specific situations: to book hotel reservations by phone or to cover major expenses (such as car rentals, plane tickets, and long hotel stays).
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm that your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll typically be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) $5 per transaction. If your card’s fees seem too high, consider getting a different card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• If you plan to withdraw cash from ATMs, confirm your daily withdrawal limit and, if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. Some travelers prefer a high limit that allows them to take out more cash at each ATM stop (saving on bank fees), while others prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs. Also, remember that you’re withdrawing euros, not dollars—so if your daily limit is $300, withdraw just €200. Many frustrated travelers have walked away from ATMs thinking their cards were rejected, when actually they were asking for more cash in euros than their daily limit allowed.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or encounter Europe’s chip-and-PIN system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip and PIN: While much of Europe is shifting to a “chip-and-PIN” security system for credit and debit cards, Greece still uses the old magnetic-swipe technology. (European chip-and-PIN cards are embedded with an electronic security chip, and require the purchaser to punch in a PIN rather than sign a receipt.) If you happen to encounter chip and PIN, it will probably be at payment machines, such as those at toll roads or self-serve gas pumps. On the outside chance that a machine won’t take your card, find a cashier who can make your card work (they can print a receipt for you to sign), or find a machine that takes cash. But don’t panic. Most travelers who are carrying only magnetic-stripe cards never encounter any problems. You can always use an ATM to withdraw cash with your magnetic-stripe card, even in countries where people predominantly use chip-and-PIN cards.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using it by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). If you need to make a collect call from Greece to the US, dial 00-800-1311; press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
Providing the following information will allow for a quicker cancellation of your missing card: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this, don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. Usually, you can receive a temporary card in Europe within two or three business days (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss promptly (within two days), you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Greece isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US, but for special service, tips are appreciated, if not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At Greek restaurants that have waitstaff, service is generally included, although it’s common to round up the bill after a good meal (usually 5-10 percent; so, for an €18.50 meal, pay €20).
Taxis: To tip the cabbie, round up about 5-10 percent (to pay a €4.50 fare, give €5; or for a €28 fare, give €30). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask your hotelier or the TI.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 23 percent in Greece. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €120 (about $155) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to do the following:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a “Tax-Free Shopping Cheque.” You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour early before you need to check in for your flight, to allow time to find the local customs office—and to stand in line. It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security, which will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your chic Greek shirt, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with a service, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that has offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in your currency of choice or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can also mail the documents from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 30 days. You can also bring in duty-free a liter of alcohol. As for food, you can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed. Any liquid-containing foods must be packed in checked luggage, a potential recipe for disaster. To check customs rules and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Greece’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in Athens, see the “At a Glance” sidebar on here.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close because of a strike, budget cuts, or a restoration project. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Labor Day (May 1), Christmas, and New Year’s. A list of holidays is on here; check museum websites for possible closures during your trip.
In this book, I’ve attempted to pin down the open hours for sights, but be warned—these are volatile and can change from week to week (or even day to day). Double-check all hours locally before planning your day.
Most of Greece’s ancient sites and archaeological museums are operated by the government and can be affected by budget cutbacks and strikes. In general, hours at sights are longer in summer and on weekends, and shorter on weekdays and in the off-season. The timing of this seasonal switch can be unannounced and differs between sights. Year-round, if things are slow, places tend to close up early with no advance notice. It’s smart to arrive well in advance of listed closing times, and to hit your must-see sights in the morning, especially if traveling outside of summer.
The Ministry of Greek Culture website (www.culture.gr) purports to list the latest hours for virtually all of the major sights—including Athens’ Acropolis, Ancient Agora, Acropolis Museum, and the National Archaeological Museum, plus the attractions at Delphi, Olympia, Epidavros, and Mycenae—but you’ll get more reliable, up-to-date information by asking your hotelier or calling the sights directly.
Going at the right time can also help you avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early. Evening visits (when possible) are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds and cooler temperatures.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, reread them the night before your visit. The Acropolis is much more entertaining if you’ve polished up on Doric architecture the night before.
Most of Greece’s artifacts have been plunked into glass cases labeled with little more than title and date. Sights run by the Greek Ministry of Culture provide a free information pamphlet, though usually only by request.
More than most destinations in Europe, Greece demands (and rewards) any effort you make to really understand its treasures. If you read up on Greek history and art, the artifacts come to life; without this background, visiting Greece’s museums can quickly become an unforgiving slog past stiff statues and endless ceramic vases.
It can also help to put your imagination into overdrive. As you stroll Athens’ Ancient Agora, mentally clad the other tourists in robes. Approach the temple at Delphi as if you were about to learn your fate from an oracle; enter the stadium at Olympia ready to race its length in front of a huge crowd. At museums, imagine being the archaeologist who unearthed the intact glass vessels, intricate golden necklaces, and vases inscribed with the faces of people who lived four millennia ago.
Many major ancient sites have both an archaeological site and a museum for the artifacts and models. You can choose between visiting the museum first (to mentally reconstruct the ruins before seeing them) or the site first (to get the lay of the ancient land before seeing the items found there). In most cases, I prefer to see the site first, then the museum. However, crowds and weather can also help determine your plan. If it’s a blistering hot afternoon, tour the air-conditioned museum first, then hit the ruins in the cool of evening (if opening hours allow). Or, if rain clouds are on the horizon, do the archaeological site first, then duck into the museum when the rain hits.
Here’s what you can typically expect at sights:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Some important sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Ancient sites are meticulously monitored; you’re sure to hear the tweets of many whistles, aimed at visitors who’ve crossed a barrier or climbed on a ruin. The Greeks take their ancient artifacts very seriously. Posing with ancient statues—or even standing next to them for a photo—is strictly forbidden.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price; others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. To adapt, pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides and Guides: In Greece, audioguides are rare, but good guidebooks are available. I’ve produced free downloadable audio tours—covering the Acropolis, Agora, National Archaeological Museum, and the Athens City Walk; see here.
You can usually hire a live local guide at the entrance to major ancient sites or museums at a reasonable cost (prices are soft and negotiable; save money by splitting the guide fee with other travelers). I list recommended guides in the “Helpful Hints” section of many chapters. Two notable exceptions are Olympia, where guides are sparse, and the Acropolis, where the loitering guides are generally of poor quality.
Services: Important sights may have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a handy place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction, not the final word.
I favor accommodations and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. For bigger cities such as Athens, I choose two or three favorite neighborhoods and recommend the best accommodations values in each, from dorm beds to fancy doubles with all the comforts.
A major feature of this book is its extensive and opinionated listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and a stable staff, run with a respect for Greek traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Greece, for me, six out of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Greece; for tips on making reservations, see here.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, generally include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly (not through an online hotel-booking engine or TI).
Some hotels use “dynamic pricing,” which means room rates can change from day to day depending on demand. This makes it difficult to predict what you will pay. For many hotels, I list a range of prices. If the rate you’re offered is at or near the bottom of my printed range, it’s likely a good deal.
Reserve your rooms several weeks in advance—or as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates—particularly if you’ll be traveling during peak times. Note that some national holidays jam things up and merit your making reservations far in advance (see “Holidays and Festivals” on here).
Requesting a Reservation: It’s usually easiest to book your room through the hotel’s website. Many have a reservation-request form built right in. (For the best rates, be sure to use the hotel’s official site and not a booking agency’s site.) Simpler websites will generate an email to the hotelier with your request. If there’s no reservation form, or for complicated requests, send an email (see opposite page for a sample request). Most recommended hotels are accustomed to guests who speak only English.
The hotelier wants to know:
• the number and type of rooms you need
• the number of nights you’ll stay
• your date of arrival (use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year)
• your date of departure
• any special needs (such as bathroom in the room or down the hall, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, crib, air-conditioning, quiet, view, ground floor or no stairs, and so on)
Make sure you mention any discounts—for Rick Steves readers or otherwise—when you make the reservation.
Confirming a Reservation: When the hotel replies with its room availability and rates, just email back to confirm your reservation. Most places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. While you can email it (I do), it’s safer to share that confidential info via a phone call, two emails (splitting your number between them), or the hotel’s secure online reservation form. On the small chance that a hotel loses track of your reservation, bring along a hard copy of their confirmation.
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel your reservation, it’s courteous to do so with as much advance notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places. Simply make a quick phone call or send an email. Request confirmation of your cancellation in case you are accidentally billed.
Be warned that cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print or ask about these before you book. For example, if you cancel on short notice, you could lose your deposit, or be billed for one night or even your entire stay. Internet deals may require prepayment, with no refunds for cancellations.
Reconfirming a Reservation: Call to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. Smaller hotels and dhomatia (privately rented rooms) appreciate knowing your time of arrival. If you’ll be arriving late (after 17:00), let them know.
Reserving Rooms as You Travel: You can make reservations as you travel, calling hotels or dhomatia a few days to a week before your arrival. If you’d rather travel without any reservations at all, you’ll have greater success snaring rooms if you arrive at your destination early in the day. When you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst), call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00 on the day you plan to arrive, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and just which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
Phoning: For tips on how to call hotels overseas, see here.
Given Greece’s economic crisis, hoteliers are often willing to make a deal. Most prices listed in this book are already lower than in recent years, and—depending on how the crisis evolves—you might be quoted even lower rates (no promises, though). I’d suggest emailing several hotels to ask for their best price. It can also be worth checking one or two online booking engines; some Greek hotels are offering even cheaper rates on these sites than are available if you book direct. I’d avoid bargaining for rock-bottom rates. Unlike international chain hotels, Greece’s mom-and-pop hoteliers have been hit hard by these rough economic times. Simply comparison-shop and make your choice.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to Rick Steves readers who book directly with the hotel. To get these rates, you must book direct (that is, not through a booking site like TripAdvisor or Booking.com), mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Because I trust hotels to honor this, please let me know if you don’t receive a listed discount. Note, though, that discounts understandably may not be applied to promotional rates.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: Offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
Remember that most hotels in Greece require payment in cash; only the most expensive places accept credit cards.
You’ll usually see the word “hotel,” but you might also see the traditional Greek word Xenonas (ΞENΩNAΣ / Ξενώνασ) In some places, especially Nafplio, small hotels are called pensions.
In this book, the price for a double room ranges from about $60 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to $500 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustering at about $100. You’ll pay more at hotels in Athens and on the islands, less on the Peloponnese.
Most hotels have lots of doubles and a few singles, triples, and quads. While groups sleep cheap, traveling alone can be expensive. Singles (except for the rare closet-type rooms that fit only a twin bed) are simply doubles used by one person—so they often cost nearly the same as a double.
A satisfying Greek breakfast with cheese, ham, yogurt, fresh bread, honey, jam, fruit, juice, and coffee or tea is standard and included in hotel prices. More expensive hotels also tend to serve eggs and cereal.
Greece’s hotels differ from American-style hotels in several ways. Most bathrooms come with just a shower (if you want a bathtub, ask for one when you reserve). You may see signs requesting that you discard toilet paper in the bathroom wastebasket. Hotel elevators, while becoming more common, are often very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up separately.
If visiting areas with mosquitoes (such as Kardamyli and Monemvasia), avoid opening your windows, especially at night. If your hotel lacks air-conditioning, request a fan. Many hotels furnish a small plug-in bulb that helps keep the bloodsuckers at bay. If not already plugged into the electric socket, it may be in or near the ashtray. Some may have a separate scented packet that you have to unwrap and insert into the device.
Hotels in Greece are required to set aside only 10 percent of their rooms for non-smokers—and often it’s the least desirable rooms that are designated as non-smoking. Thankfully, hoteliers are obsessive about eliminating any odors. When I’m in Greece, I’ve never asked for a non-smoking room, and so far, I’ve found all my accommodations acceptable. But if your room smells like the Marlboro man slept there, ask to be moved.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You can drop your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant or the nearest launderette or Wi-Fi hotspot.
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly (not angrily) at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (say, for instance, your room is over a café), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
Rooms in private homes (similar to B&Bs, called dhomatia / ΔΩMATIA / δωματια in Greece) offer double the cultural intimacy for a good deal less than most hotel rooms. You’ll usually have air-conditioning, your own bathroom, and a mini-fridge, but expect simple, stripped-down rooms, and little or nothing in the way of a public lounge. Hosts generally speak English and are interesting conversationalists. Your stay probably won’t include breakfast, but you’ll have access to a kitchen.
Local tourist information offices may have lists of dhomatia and can book a room for you, but you’ll save money by booking direct with the dhomatia listed in this book.
You’ll pay about $30 per bed to stay at a hostel. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); Hostelworld.com is the standard way backpackers search and book hostels these days, but also try Hostelz.com, Hostels.com, and Hostelbookers.com.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
Whether you’ll be in cities or the countryside, renting an apartment, house, or villa can be a fun and cost-effective way to delve into Europe. Websites such as HomeAway.com and its sister site VRBO.com let you correspond directly with European property owners or managers.
Airbnb.com makes it reasonably easy to find a place to sleep in someone’s home. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. If you want a place to sleep that’s free, Couchsurfing.org is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Greek food is simple...and simply delicious. Unlike the French or the Italians, who are forever experimenting to perfect an intricate cuisine, the Greeks found an easy formula and stick with it—and it rarely misses. The four Greek food groups are olives (and olive oil), salty feta cheese, ripe tomatoes, and crispy phyllo dough. Virtually every dish you’ll have here is built on a foundation of these four tasty building blocks.
When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales.
Menus are usually written in both Greek and English, but it’s acceptable to go into the kitchen and point to the dish you want. This is a good way to make some friends, sample from each kettle, get what you want (or at least know what you’re getting), and have a truly memorable meal. Be brave. For convenience, the day’s specials are sometimes arranged in a display case for your perusal.
Smoking is banned in enclosed spaces, such as restaurants and bars. As a result, many smokers occupy outdoor tables—often that’s where you’ll want to sit too.
Restaurant hours are informal. While the opening times I’ve listed are reasonably reliable, closing times often depend on how busy a place is. Most restaurants close when the last customer leaves—if you arrive too late on a slow day, you may find the place shuttered.
If a tourist complains about Greek food, they’ll usually say something like, “It was fish with heads and the same salads every day.” Remember that eating in a foreign land is sightseeing for your taste buds. Greece has local specialties that are good, memorable, or both. At least once, seek out and eat or drink the notorious “gross” specialties: ouzo, eggplant, fish eggs, octopus, and so on. You’ve heard references to them all your life—now’s your chance to actually experience what everyone’s talking about. Kali orexi! (Bon appétit!)
Greeks like to eat late: Dine at 18:00, and you’ll be surrounded by other tourists; stick around until 21:00, and they’ll all have been replaced by locals. When you sit down, you’ll be given a basket of (generally fresh, good) bread, often with your napkins and flatware tucked inside. You’ll pay a bread and cover charge of about €0.50-1 (usually noted clearly on the menu). A small dessert (that you didn’t order) may appear at the end of your restaurant meal—often a tiny pastry, candied fruit, or shot of grappa. It’s included in the price of your meal. You are welcome to linger as late as you want—don’t feel pressured to eat quickly and turn over the table.
In addition to the traditional Greek restaurant (estiatorio), you’ll also encounter these places:
Taverna: Common, rustic neighborhood restaurant with a smaller menu, slinging the Greek favorites.
Mezedopolio: Eatery specializing in small plates/appetizers/mezedes.
Ouzerie: Bar that makes ouzo, often selling high-quality mezedes—or even meals—to go along with it.
If you’re looking for fast food, in addition to the usual international chains (McDonald’s and Starbucks), there are some Greek versions. Coffee Right is the local version of Starbucks, and Goody’s is the Greek take on McDonald’s. Everest is open 24/7, selling sandwiches and savory pies to go.
Although the Greeks don’t like to admit it, their cuisine has a lot in common with Turkish food, including many of the same dishes. (This is partly because they share a similar climate, and partly because Greece was under the Ottoman Empire for nearly 400 years.) Some names—such as moussaka—come directly from Turkish. You’ll find traces of Italian influences as well, such as pastitsio, the “Greek lasagna.”
My favorite Greek snack is souvlaki pita, a tasty shish kebab wrapped in flat bread. Souvlaki stands are all over Greece. On the islands, eat fresh seafood. Don’t miss the creamy yogurt with honey. Feta cheese salads and flaky, nut-and-honey baklava are two other tasty treats. Dunk your bread into tzatziki (TZAHT-zee-kee), the ubiquitous and refreshing cucumber-and-yogurt dip. (Tourists often call it tzitziki, which sounds like the Greek word for crickets—a mispronunciation which endlessly amuses local waiters.)
Here are more flavors to seek out during your time in Greece.
As you’ll quickly gather when you pass endless tranquil olive groves on your drive through the countryside, olives are a major staple of Greek food—both the olives themselves and the oil they produce. Connoisseurs can distinguish as many varieties of olives as there are grapes for wine, but they fall into two general categories: those for eating and those for making oil.
Greeks are justly proud of their olive oil: Their country is the third-largest producer in the European Union, and they consume more olive oil per capita than any other Mediterranean nation—almost seven gallons per person a year. Locals say that the taste is shaped both by the variety and the terrain where the olives are grown. Olive oils from the Peloponnese, for example, are supposed to be robust with grassy or herbaceous overtones. Pay attention, and you’ll notice the differences as you travel. Common, edible Greek olives include the following:
Kalamata: Purple and almond-shaped, the best-known variety. These come from the southern Peloponnese and are cured in a red-wine vinegar brine.
Throubes: Black, wrinkled olives, usually from the island of Thassos, that stay on the tree until fully ripe. Dry-cured, they have an intense, salty taste and chewy texture.
Amfissa: Found in both black and green varieties, grown near Delphi. They are rounder and mellower than other varieties.
Halkithiki: Large, green olives from northern Greece, often stuffed with pimento, sun-dried tomato, feta cheese, or other delicacies.
Tsakistes: Green olives grown mainly in Attica (near Athens) that are cracked with a mallet or cut with a knife before being steeped in water and then brine. After curing, they are marinated in garlic and lemon wedges or herbs.
Feta: Protected by EU regulations, it’s made with sheep’s milk, although a small percentage of goat’s milk can be added (but never cow’s milk). Feta comes in many variations—some are soft, moist, and rather mild; others are sour, hard, and crumbly.
Kasseri: The most popular Greek cheese after feta, it’s a mild, yellow cheese made from either sheep’s or goat’s milk.
Graviera: A hard cheese usually made in Crete from sheep’s milk, it tastes sweet and nutty, almost like a fine Swiss cheese.
Savory, flaky phyllo-dough pastries (pita, not to be confused with pita bread) are another staple of Greek cuisine. These can be ordered as a starter in a restaurant or purchased from a bakery for a tasty bite on the run. They can be made out of just about anything, but the most common are spanakopita (spinach), tiropita (cheese), kreatopita (lamb), and meletzanitopita (eggplant).
Mezedes (meh-ZEH-dehs), known internationally as meze, are a great way to sample several tasty Greek dishes. This “small plates” approach is common and easy—instead of ordering a starter and a main dish per person, get two or three starters and one main dish to split.
Almost anything in Greece can be served as a small-plate “starter” (including several items listed in other sections here—olives, cheeses, and main dishes), but these are most common:
Greek salad (a.k.a. horiatiki, “village” salad): Ripe tomatoes chopped up just so, rich feta cheese (sometimes in a long, thick slab that you break apart with your fork), olives, and onions, all drenched with olive oil. You’ll find yourself eating this combination again and again—yet somehow, it never gets old.
Tzatziki: A pungent and thick sauce of yogurt, cucumber, and garlic. It seems like a condiment but is often ordered as a starter, then eaten as a salad or used to complement other foods.
Pantzarosalata: Beet salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar.
Bekri meze: Literally “drunkard’s snack”—chunks of chicken, pork, or beef cooked slowly with wine, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, and olive oil.
Dolmathes: Stuffed grape leaves filled with either meat or rice and served hot or cold.
Taramosalata: Smoky, pink, fish-roe mixture with the consistency of mashed potatoes, used as a dip for bread or vegetables.
Melitzanosalata: Cooked eggplant with the consistency of mashed potatoes, usually well-seasoned and delicious.
Roasted red peppers: Soft and flavorful, often drizzled with olive oil.
Tirokafteri: Feta cheese that’s been softened and mixed with white pepper to give it some kick, served either as a spread or stuffed inside roasted red peppers.
Saganaki: Cooked cheese, often breaded, sometimes grilled and sometimes fried, occasionally flambéed.
Soutzoukakia: Meatballs with spicy tomato sauce.
Keftedes: Small meatballs, often seasoned with mint, onion, parsley, and sometimes ouzo.
Papoutsaki: Eggplant “slippers” filled with ground beef and cheese.
Summertime visitors might be disappointed not to find much soup on the menu (including avgolemono, the delicious egg, lemon, and rice soup). Soup is considered a winter dish and is almost impossible to find in warm weather. If available, Greek chicken soup (kotosoupa) is very tasty. Kremithosoupa is the Greek version of French onion soup, and kakavia is a famous fish soup often compared to bouillabaisse.
Here are some popular meat and seafood dishes you’ll likely see.
Gyros: Literally “turn,” a gyro is not a type of meat but a way of preparing it—stacked on a metal skewer and vertically slow-roasted on a rotisserie. In Greece it’s usually made from chicken or pork, and often served wrapped in a pita, making a handy to-go sandwich.
Souvlaki: Pork or chicken cooked on a skewer, often eaten with pita bread or a rice pilaf.
Moussaka: A classic casserole, with layers of minced meat, eggplant, and tomatoes and a topping of cheesy Béchamel sauce or egg custard.
Pastitsio: A layered, baked dish called the “Greek lasagna.” Ground meat is sandwiched between two layers of pasta, with an egg-custard or Béchamel topping.
Arnaki kleftiko: Slow-cooked lamb, usually wrapped in phyllo dough or parchment paper. Legend says it was created by bandits who needed to cook without the telltale signs of smoke or fire. (Baked fish, and other meats, may also be served kleftiko.)
Stifado: Beef stew with onions, tomatoes, and spices such as cinnamon and cloves. It was traditionally made with rabbit (kouneli).
Gavros: An appetizer similar to anchovies. Squeeze lemon luxuriously all over them, and eat everything but the wispy little tails.
Htapothi: Octopus, often marinated and grilled, then drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice.
Barbounia: Red mullet that is usually grilled or fried and is always expensive. These small fish are bony, but the flesh melts in your mouth.
Psari plaki: Fish baked with tomatoes and onions.
Baklava: Phyllo dough layered with nuts and honey.
Kataifi: Thin fibers of phyllo (like shredded wheat) layered with nuts and honey.
Ekmek: A cake made of thin phyllo fibers soaked in honey, then topped with custard and a layer of whipped cream.
Loukoumades: The Greek doughnut, soaked in honey or sugar syrup.
Meli pita: Honey-cheese pie, traditionally served at Easter.
Karydopita: Honey-walnut cake made without flour.
Wine: This is a rough land with simple wines. A local vintner told me there’s no fine $50 bottle of Greek wine. I asked him, “What if you want to spend $30?” He said, “Fine, you can buy three $10 bottles.”
There are two basic types of Greek wines: retsina (resin-flavored) and non-resinated wines. With dinner I generally order the infamous retsina wine. It makes you want to sling a patch over one eye and say, “Arghh.” The first glass is like drinking wood. The third glass is dangerous: It starts to taste good. If you drink any more, you’ll smell like it the entire next day. Why resin? Way back when, Greek winemakers used pine resin to seal the amphoras that held the wine, protecting the wine from the air. Discovering that they liked the taste, the winemakers began adding resin to the wine itself. Retsina is also sold in bottles, but in traditional tavernas it comes from a barrel. Give it a try.
If pine sap is not your cup of tea, there are plenty of other wine options. With its new generation of winemakers (many of them trained abroad), Greece is getting better at wine. More than 300 native varietals are now grown in Greece’s wine regions. About two-thirds of the wine produced in Greece is white. The best known are Savatiano (the most widely grown grape used for retsina and other wines), Assyrtiko (a crisp white mostly from the islands), and Moschofilero (a dry white from the Peloponnese). Red wines include Agiorgitiko (a medium red also from the Peloponnese; one carries the name “Blood of Hercules”) and Xynomavro (an intense red from Naoussa in Macedonia). Greeks also grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and other familiar varieties.
Here are a few wine terms that you may find useful: inos (οίνος—term for “wine” printed on bottles), krasi (spoken term for “wine”), ktima (winery or estate), inopolio (wine bar), lefko (white), erithro or kokkino (red), xiros (dry), agouro (young), me poli soma (full-bodied), epitrapezio (table wine), and O.P.A.P. (an indication of quality that tells you the wine came from one of Greece’s designated wine regions).
Beer: These days, like many locals, I often skip the wine and go for a cold beer. Greeks are proud of their few local brands, including Alpha, Fix, Vergina, and Mythos.
Spirits: Beyond wine and beer, consider special Greek spirits. Cloudy, anise-flavored ouzo, supposedly invented by monks on Mount Athos, is worth a try even if you don’t like the taste (black licorice). Similar to its Mediterranean cousins, French pastis and Turkish raki, ouzo turns from clear to milky white when you add ice or water (don’t drink it straight). Greeks drink it both as an aperitif and with food. I like to sip it slowly in the early evening while sharing several mezedes with my travel partner. Some of the bestselling brands are Ouzo 12, Plomari Ouzo, and Sans Rival Ouzo.
Even better is tsipouro. Similar to Italian grappa, this brandy is distilled from leftover grape skins; it is sometimes flavored with anise. Stronger and purer than ouzo, it’s best drunk with water on the rocks. Some of the best are Barbayanni, Tsilili, and Adolo.
Metaxa is to be savored after dinner. This rich, sweet, golden-colored liqueur has a brandy base blended with aged wine and a “secret” herbal mixture.
If you’re traveling on the Peloponnese, try Tentura, a regional liqueur flavored with cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and citrus. It packs a spicy kick.
Coffee: All over Greece, Starbucks-style coffee houses have invaded Main Street. But in some tavernas you can still find traditional Greek coffee, made with loose grounds and similar to Turkish coffee. Let the grounds settle to the bottom of the cup, and avoid this highly caffeinated “mud” unless you want a jolt. It’s usually served with a glass of water.
You can order your coffee pikro/sketos (bitter/plain), metrio (semi-sweet), or gliko (sweet). Most people take theirs metrio. Don’t ask for a regular coffee, as almost nobody will understand what you mean.
Especially in the summer, cafés are filled with Greeks sipping iced coffee drinks. First it was iced Nescafé, called a frappé (order it black or white—with milk). Now cafés offer an entire array of iced coffees: freddo espresso (iced espresso), freddo cappuccino (iced cappuccino), and even freddo Mokka.
Water: Water is served in bottles. It’s generally cheap and rarely carbonated.
We travel all the way to Greece to enjoy differences—to become temporary locals. You’ll experience frustrations. Certain truths that we find “God-given” or “self-evident,” such as cold beer, ice in drinks, bottomless cups of coffee, hot showers, and bigger being better, are suddenly not so true. One of the benefits of travel is the eye-opening realization that there are logical, civil, and even better alternatives.
Europeans generally like Americans. But if there is a negative aspect to the Greek image of Americans, it’s that we are loud, wasteful, ethnocentric, too informal (which can seem disrespectful), and a bit naive.
While the Greek people look bemusedly at some of our Yankee excesses—and worriedly at others—they nearly always afford us individual travelers all the warmth we deserve.
Judging from all the happy feedback I receive from travelers who have used this book, it’s safe to assume you’ll enjoy a great, affordable vacation—with the finesse of an independent, experienced traveler.
Happy travels! Kalo taxidi!
From Rick Steves’ Europe Through the Back Door
Travel is intensified living—maximum thrills per minute and one of the last great sources of legal adventure. Travel is freedom. It’s recess, and we need it.
Experiencing the real Europe requires catching it by surprise, going casual...“through the Back Door.”
Affording travel is a matter of priorities. (Make do with the old car.) You can eat and sleep—simply, safely, and enjoyably—anywhere in Europe for $120 a day plus transportation costs. In many ways, spending more money only builds a thicker wall between you and what you traveled so far to see. Europe is a cultural carnival, and time after time, you’ll find that its best acts are free and the best seats are the cheap ones.
A tight budget forces you to travel close to the ground, meeting and communicating with the people. Never sacrifice sleep, nutrition, safety, or cleanliness to save money. Simply enjoy the local-style alternatives to expensive hotels and restaurants.
Connecting with people carbonates your experience. Extroverts have more fun. If your trip is low on magic moments, kick yourself and make things happen. If you don’t enjoy a place, maybe you don’t know enough about it. Seek the truth. Recognize tourist traps. Give a culture the benefit of your open mind. See things as different, but not better or worse. Any culture has plenty to share.
Of course, travel, like the world, is a series of hills and valleys. Be fanatically positive and militantly optimistic. If something’s not to your liking, change your liking.
Travel can make you a happier American, as well as a citizen of the world. Our Earth is home to seven billion equally precious people. It’s humbling to travel and find that other people don’t have the “American Dream”—they have their own dreams. Europeans like us, but with all due respect, they wouldn’t trade passports.
Thoughtful travel engages us with the world. In tough economic times, it reminds us what is truly important. By broadening perspectives, travel teaches new ways to measure quality of life.
Globetrotting destroys ethnocentricity, helping us understand and appreciate other cultures. Rather than fear the diversity on this planet, celebrate it. Among your most prized souvenirs will be the strands of different cultures you choose to knit into your own character. The world is a cultural yarn shop, and Back Door travelers are weaving the ultimate tapestry. Join in!
