Traditional Greek Sit-Down Tavernas
Map: Restaurants in Central Athens
The “Restaurant Steps” at Mnisikleous Street
Eating Cheap on “Souvlaki Row”
Greek food is just plain good. Even here in the capital, there’s little point in seeking out trendy, non-Greek eateries. Locals and tourists alike fill endless tavernas, mezedopolios (eateries selling small plates called mezedes), ouzeries (bars selling ouzo liquor and pub grub), and other traditional eateries dishing up the basics. For more on Greek cuisine, see here.
I’ve listed these restaurants by neighborhood. You probably won’t be able to resist dining in the Plaka one night, but in that very touristy area, the prices are high and the quality is mixed. Don’t be afraid to venture elsewhere. Thissio and Psyrri—very different but equally worthwhile dining zones—lie just beyond the Plaka, a short walk away. For those staying near the Acropolis Museum in Makrigianni or Koukaki, I’ve listed a couple of convenient options. At many eateries, credit cards are not accepted, so bring cash. For tips on tipping, see here.
Although restaurants post official hours, these are by no means fixed in stone. A restaurant usually will close after the last customer leaves, and no later. So you may find an establishment that says it’s open until 24:00 actually closes at 23:00, and stops serving food at 22:15. Opening times, on the other hand, are usually fairly reliable.
For dessert, frozen Greek yogurt is Athens’ newest trend. It costs about €2 per serving—look for these stores across town: Froyo, Yasu, Chillbox, Snoyo, and Fresko Yoghurt Bar.
(See “Restaurants in Central Athens” map, here.)
Diners—Greeks and tourists alike—flock to the Plaka. In this neighborhood, the ambience is better than the food. I’ve avoided the obvious, touristy joints on the main pedestrian drag—with obnoxious touts out front trying to lure in diners with a desperate spiel—in favor of more authentic-feeling eateries huddled on the quieter hillside just above. Eat at one of my recommendations, or simply choose the place with your favorite view of the ancient monument, on a square that appeals to you, or with live music.
(See “Restaurants in Central Athens” map, here.)
Palia Taverna tou Psara (“The Old Tavern of Psaras”) is a big, slick, pricey eatery that enjoys bragging about the many illustrious guests they’ve hosted since opening in 1898. It’s the kind of place where a rowdy, rollicking group of a hundred can slam down a dish-’em-up Greek meal. If you don’t want a main dish (€10-25), you can order a good selection of their mezedes (€3-14). Seating is in two kitty-corner buildings, plus at tables on the atmospheric street between them. The lower building features live folk music and an outdoor terrace with views over Athens’ rooftops (daily 11:00-24:00, music nearly daily from 21:00, signposted off Tripodon at Eretheos 16, tel. 210-321-8734, www.psaras-taverna.gr).
Restaurant Hermion is a dressy wicker indulgence in a quiet arcade off traffic-free (and loaded-with-tourists) Pandrossou. Choose between outdoor seating in an inviting courtyard and a cool, air-conditioned interior. While dining under a canvas canopy surrounded by potted plants, you forget you’re in a big city. The menu offers a wide range of salads and lots of fish (€3-10 starters, €5-7 salads, €9-22 grilled meats, €10-12 fish dishes, daily 12:00-24:00; live music Thu-Sun starting at 19:00; with back to cathedral, leave square downhill to the left, going 50 yards down Pandrossou to Hermion sign, then follow arcade passageway to Pandrossou 15; tel. 210-324-7148, www.hermion.gr). With your back to the cathedral, leave the square downhill to the left, going 50 yards down Pandrossou to the Hermion sign, then follow arcade passageway to Pandrossou 15; tel. 210-324-7148, www.hermion.gr).
Sholarhio Ouzeri Kouklis, at the intersection of Tripodon and Epicharmou streets, serves only the small plates called mezedes (meh-ZEH-dehs; known internationally as mezes). While you could assemble a meal of these Greek “tapas” at nearly any restaurant, this one makes them its specialty. It’s fun, inexpensive, and ideal for small groups wanting to try a variety of traditional mezedes and drink good, homemade booze on an airy perch at the top of the Plaka. Since 1935, the Kouklis family has been making ouzo liquor and running their restaurant—which maintains a 1930s atmosphere to this day. The waiter comes around with a big platter of dishes, and you choose what you like (€3-6/plate). Drinks are cheap, dessert is free, and the stress-free €14 meal deals are worth considering. As the plates are pretty big, this is most fun with a group of four or more. Many people sit on the street, waiting for a spot to open up on their lively front terrace, but you can also climb the spiral staircase to the often-empty upstairs area with its tiny romantic balconies for two. This place is in all the guidebooks—hardly a local scene, but still enjoyable (daily 11:00-2:00 in the morning, Tripodon 14, tel. 210-324-7605, www.sholarhio.gr). Upon request, Nikos and his gang welcome anyone with this book with a free taste of homemade ouzo.
(See “Restaurants in Central Athens” map, here.)
At the top of the Plaka, the stepped lane called Mnisikleous (stretching up toward the Acropolis) is lined with eateries featuring interchangeable food and delightful outdoor seating. It’s enjoyable to climb the stairs and window-shop along this dreamy drag. Note that most of these places have live music and/or rooftop gardens. Don’t limit your search to just these two eateries; seek out the music and the setting you like best.
Xenios Zeus (ΞENIOΣ ZEYΣ), sitting proudly at the top of the Mnisikleous steps, is in every sense a step above the others. Exuberant Eleni and her husband, Yiannis, offer good, traditional Greek food inside or out on a terrace overlooking Athens’ rooftops. Eleni prides herself on using only fresh ingredients...and it shows. Your meal starts with a €1.50 piece of toasted village bread with garlic and olive oil. Consider their “special menu,” a €12 mezedes sampler plate (€3-8 appetizers, €9-20 main dishes, €15-19 fixed-price meals, daily 12:00-24:00, may close Nov-Feb, Mnisikleous 37, tel. 210-324-9514, www.xenioszeus-plaka.gr).
Geros Toy Moria Tavern is probably the best-regarded of the eateries that line the steps. It has three eating areas: the “oldest tavern in the Plaka”—a group-friendly, powerfully air-conditioned indoor dining hall featuring a more-formal menu and live Greek music and dance (no cover, nightly from 20:15); the more intimate Palio Tetradio (“Old Notebook”), with a terrace, nostalgic/cozy-in-the-winter indoor seating, and more mezedes; and, maybe best of all, tables along the steps under grapevines (€4-9 starters and salads, €9-20 main dishes, daily 10:00-3:00 in the morning, Mnisikleous 27, tel. 210-322-1753, www.gerostoumoria-restaurant.com).
Monastiraki Square (where it meets Mitropoleos street) is a popular place to head for fast food. This is souvlaki heaven, with several frantic restaurants—Thanasis, Savas, and Bairaktaris—spilling into the street and keeping hordes of hungry eaters happy. Souvlaki is grilled meat on a skewer, served on a plate or wrapped in pita bread to make a sandwich. These places also sell meat shaved from gyros, hearty Greek salads, wine, beer, and ouzo. Souvlaki goes well with tzatziki, the thick, garlicky yogurt-and-cucumber sauce. First decide whether you want your meal “to go” or at a table.
Take-Out: Gyros or a single souvlaki sandwich wrapped in a pita “to go” cost about €2—these places can fill and wrap a pita before you can blink. For these cheap carry-out prices, order and pay at the cashier, then take your receipt to the counter to claim your meal. It can be tricky to find a comfortable bench or other suitable perch in this crowded neighborhood—plan to munch as you walk (and watch out for the inevitable dribbles of souvlaki juice).
Table Service: The joints here on “Souvlaki Row” offer a good value if you’re getting your food “to go.” But you’ll pay substantially more to sit and be waited on. Still, the ambience is lively, especially at the outdoor tables. A big plate of four souvlaki (plus pita bread, onions, and tomatoes) costs €9-10; a smaller helping of two souvlaki—plenty for most eaters—runs about €5-6.
Two popular options face each other across the street: Thanasis is famous for its special kebab, made from a traditional recipe that combines ground beef and lamb with Thanasis’ secret blend of seasonings (daily 10:00-2:00 in the morning, Mitropoleos 69, tel. 210-324-4705). Savas is another old favorite with a similar menu and a little less character (daily 10:00-3:00 in the morning, Mitropoleos 86, tel. 210-324-5048). The dominant operation, Bairaktaris, offers lesser value.
(See “Restaurants in Central Athens” map, here.)
The James Joyce Irish Pub offers travelers an escape from Greece. Stepping inside, the complete Irish-pub menu (€8-12 main dishes), top Irish beers on tap, air-conditioned freshness, and rock ‘n’ roll ambience combine to transport you to Ireland (between the Thissio temple and Ermou street at Astiggos 12, tel. 210-323-5055, www.jjoyceirishpubathens.com, Tom Cameron).
An enticing stretch of traditional restaurants sits along Adrianou across from the Ancient Agora. I ate well at Dia Tauta (a.k.a. Dai Tafta), which offers the usual Greek standards, such as lamb kleftiko, and makes a yummy bougiourdi—feta cheese with tomatoes and peppers. The free olives and carafes of tap water are nice touches (€4-7 starters, €8-15 main dishes, daily 9:30-1:30 in the morning, live music Tue-Sun at 20:00, Adrianou 37, tel. 210-321-2347).
To assemble a cheap meal of your own, head 500 yards north of Monastiraki (on Athinas) to the Central Market. For details, see here. There are plenty of small shops in the neighborhood stocking enough to throw together a decent picnic.
For other inexpensive alternatives, check out “Souvlaki Row” (described earlier) or the pies at Ariston (described later).
(See “Restaurants in Central Athens” map, here.)
O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigkas (“The Ant and the Cricket”) serves up pricey, updated, regional Greek cuisine. Choose between the two levels of indoor seating in a fun, mod, retro-grocery-store atmosphere, or grab a sidewalk table. It’s named for the beloved folktale about an ant who works hard all summer to prepare for the winter, while the lazy cricket goofs off...only to come asking for help when winter arrives (€5-9 starters, €8-14 main dishes, Mon-Wed 12:30-24:00, Thu-Sat 12:30-1:00 in the morning, closed Sun, Mitropoleos 12-14, tel. 210-324-7607).
Palia Athina (Παλιά Αθήνα) offers a homey atmosphere, traditional Greek food, and reasonable prices. Ask Vassilis or Marina what’s cooking today, or go to the kitchen and see for yourself (€3-6 starters, €5-12 main dishes, closed Sun, Nikis 46, tel. 210-324-5777).
Kimolia (Κιμωλία) Art Café is a cute little pastel place handy to several recommended hotels. The menu of light café fare is nothing outstanding, but the reasonable prices, relaxing vibe, free Wi-Fi, and friendly service make it a nice place to take a break (€5-7 sandwiches and salads, daily 11:00-late, Ypereidou 5, tel. 211-184-8446).
Cheap and Tasty Pies: Ariston (AΡIΣTON), in business for more than a century, is one of Athens’ top spots for a wide range of savory and sweet pastries (less than €2 apiece). Choose between spanakopita (spinach pie), tiropita (cheese pie), kreatopita (minced pork meat pie), meletzanitopita (eggplant pie), and lots more (leek, shrimp, olives and feta, and so on...all labeled in English). They also have lovely sweet desserts made with flaky phyllo pastry. This is perhaps the cheapest hot meal in town (Mon, Wed, and Sat 7:30-18:00; Tue and Thu-Fri 7:30-21:00; closed Sun, 2 blocks from Syntagma toward the Plaka at Voulis 10, tel. 210-322-7626).
Asian: Noodle Bar offers diners a break from Greek fare, with tasty pan-Asian dishes in a small, informal, indoor-outdoor setting in an urban zone, a few blocks from Syntagma Square (salads, soups, wok dishes, rice dishes, most meals €5-9, also carry-out, daily 12:00-24:00, Apollonos 11, tel. 210-331-8585).
Splurge: Hotel Grande Bretagne’s Roof Garden Restaurant is considered by many the finest place in town to dine on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine in pure elegance—in a rooftop garden with spectacular Acropolis and city views (€20-25 pastas, €25-45 main dishes, plan on spending €60 for dinner, daily 13:00-1:15 in the morning, reservations required for meals, “smart casual” dress code, north side of Syntagma Square, tel. 210-333-0766, www.grandebretagne.gr). If you don’t want such an expensive meal, drop by their bar for a €10 beer or a €16 cocktail.
The thriving Psyrri nightlife district, just north of Monastiraki, is one of Athens’ most enjoyable areas to explore. To locate the following restaurants, see the map on here. Most eateries are concentrated near the squares called Iroon and Agii Anargiri, and a couple of reliable local options offer unpretentious decor and food at reasonable prices.
Taverna tou Psyrri, right in the heart of the restaurant action, is older and more authentic-feeling than other nearby Psyrri eateries, with red-and-white checkerboard tablecloths, a garden terrace hidden in the back, a straightforward menu, and good prices (€3-6 starters, €7-10 main dishes, daily 13:00-24:00, Eshilou 12—look for the drunk clinging to the lamppost out front, tel. 210-321-4923).
O Nikitas (Ο νικήτας) sits on a peaceful square, serving mainly mezedes and good food to a local crowd that’s been coming here for decades (good €1.30 souvlaki, €3 starters, €6-8 main dishes, across from church at Agion Anargyron 19, tel. 210-325-2591).
Ivis Cafeneio is a tiny corner ouzo pub run with a passion for tradition. The owner plays traditional Greek music and offers a Greek-only menu featuring a tiny selection of modern Mediterranean dishes. While splashier eateries abound, this joint is a classic. The calamari is good here (€3-5 plates, daily 13:00-late, corner of Ivis and Navarhou Apostoli just off Ermou, tel. 210-323-2554).
Ice Cream: It’s hard to miss—or resist—Pagotomania, in the heart of Psyrri, with its display case bursting with colorful mounds of tasty ice cream (€1.70 for a small cone to take away, open long hours daily, near corner of Taki and Aisopou, tel. 210-323-0001).
(See “Nightlife Neigborhoods” map, here.)
Filistron (Φίλιστρο), on a tranquil stretch of the Apostolou Pavlou promenade just beyond the heart of the outdoor café zone, offers one of the best dining experiences in Athens. They serve great regional dishes from around Greece at fair prices, and their delightful rooftop terrace makes a memorable perch, with panoramic views of the Acropolis, Lykavittos Hill, and Athens receding to the horizon. Ask your waiter about daily specials—four starters make a good meal for two (€7 starters, €8-15 main dishes, daily 12:00-24:00, July-Aug from 18:00, cozy country interior, Apostolou Pavlou 23—see map on here, tel. 210-342-2897, www.filistron.com).
New development in this area, including the Akropoli Metro stop, has brought with it a trendy and touristy row of restaurants, cafés, and ice-cream shops along pedestrian Makrigianni street facing the Acropolis Museum. The other pedestrian street, Dionysiou Areopagitou, also has plenty of tourist-friendly options between the museum and the Arch of Hadrian. This neighborhood is also home to several recommended hotels. If you’re staying here and would rather not venture to other parts of town for a meal, consider these options. For locations, see the map on here.
Mani Mani offers a touch of class for reasonable prices. The focus is on cuisine from the Mani Peninsula, so you’ll find some pleasantly atypical options here—a nice change of pace from the same old standards. The decor, like the food, is thoughtfully updated Greek, with a soothing green-and-white color scheme. As it’s all indoor seating, this is an especially good bad-weather option (€6-9 starters, €10-15 main dishes, early-bird special until 18:00 offers half-portions for half the price, Tue-Sun 15:00–24:00 in summer, shorter hours in winter, closed Mon, reservations smart, look for low-profile green MANH MANH banner at Falirou 10 and go upstairs, tel. 210-921-8180, www.manimani.com.gr).
Strofi Athenian Restaurant is my favorite place in town for white-tablecloth, elegantly modern, rooftop-Acropolis-view dining. Because the restaurant is a five-minute walk from the tourist crush, Niko Bletsos and his staff need to be as good as they are. Once you’re seated on their rooftop enjoying classic Greek cuisine—especially lamb—under a floodlit Acropolis, you’ll be glad you made dinner reservations here. And though they have a fine air-conditioned interior, the breeze makes the rooftop comfortable even on hot evenings (€6-10 starters, €13-17 main dishes, Tue-Sun 12:00-late, closed Mon, about 100 yards down Propyleon street off Dionysiou Areopagitou at Rovertou Galli 25, tel. 210-921-4130, www.strofi.gr).
To Kati Allo Restaurant, under the far side of the Acropolis Museum, lacks tourists and is the quintessential neighborhood hole-in-the-wall. Run by English-speaking Kostas Bakatselos and his family (including an American daughter-in-law), this place offers both sidewalk seating and fan-cooled inside tables. The menu, written on a blackboard, features a short list of cheap, fresh, and tasty local options (€6-8 main dishes, open daily for lunch and dinner, just off Makrigianni street at Chatzichristou 12, tel. 210-922-3071).
