ΎΔΡΑ / Ύδρα
Getting Between Athens and Hydra
Getting Between Hydra and the Peloponnese
Hydra (pronounced EE-drah, not HIGH-drah)—less than a two-hour boat ride from Athens’ port, Piraeus—is a glamorous getaway that combines practical convenience with idyllic Greek island ambience. After the noise of Athens, Hydra’s traffic-free tranquility is a delight. Donkeys rather than cars, the shady awnings of well-worn cafés, and memorable seaside views all combine to make it clear...you’ve found your Greek isle.
The island’s main town, also called Hydra, is one of Greece’s prettiest. Its busy but quaint harbor—bobbing with rustic fishing boats and luxury yachts—is surrounded by a ring of rocky hills and blanketed with whitewashed homes. From the harbor, a fleet of zippy water taxis whisk you to isolated beaches and tavernas. Hydra is an easy blend of stray cats, hardworking donkeys, welcoming Hydriots (as locals are called), and lazy tourists on “island time.”
One of the island’s greatest attractions is its total absence of cars and motorbikes. Sure-footed beasts of burden—laden with everything from sandbags and bathtubs to bottled water—climb stepped lanes. While Hydra is generally quiet, dawn teaches visitors the exact meaning of “cockcrow.” The end of night is marked with much more than a distant cock-a-doodle-doo; it’s a dissonant chorus of cat fights, burro honks, and what sounds like roll call at an asylum for crazed roosters. After the animal population gets all that out of its system, the island slumbers a little longer.
Though it may seem tiny and low-key, overachieving Hydra holds a privileged place in Greek history. The fate of Hydriots has always been tied to the sea, which locals have harnessed to their advantage time after time.
Many Hydriot merchants became wealthy running the British blockade of French ports during the Napoleonic Wars. Hydra enjoyed its glory days in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when the island was famous for its shipbuilders. Hydra’s prosperity earned it the nickname “Little England.” As rebellion swept Greece, the island flourished as a safe haven for those fleeing Ottoman oppression.
When the Greeks launched their War of Independence in 1821, Hydra emerged as a leading naval power. The harbor, with its twin forts and abundance of cannons, housed and protected the fleet of 130 ships. Hydriots of note from this period include the naval officer Andreas Miaoulis, who led the “firebrands” and their deadly “fireships,” which succeeded in decimating the Ottoman navy (see here); and Lazaros Kountouriotis, a wealthy shipping magnate who donated his fleet to the cause (see here).
Greece won its independence, but at a great cost to Hydra, which lost many of its merchant-turned-military ships to the fighting...sending the island into a deep economic funk. During those lean post-war years, Hydriots again found salvation in the sea, farming the sponges that lived below the surface (sponge-divers here pioneered the use of diving suits). Gathering sponges kick-started the local economy and kept Hydra afloat.
In 1956 Sophia Loren came here to play an Hydriot sponge-diver in the film Boy on a Dolphin, propelling the little island onto the international stage. And the movie’s plot—in which a precious ancient sculpture is at risk of falling into the hands of a greedy art collector instead of being returned to the Greek government—still resonates with today’s Greeks, who want to reclaim their heritage for the Acropolis Museum.
Thanks largely to the film, by the 1960s Hydra had become a favorite retreat for celebrities, well-heeled tourists, and artists and writers, who still draw inspiration from the idyllic surroundings. Canadian songwriter Leonard Cohen lived here for a time—and was inspired to compose his beloved song “Bird on the Wire” after observing just that here on Hydra. Today visitors only have to count the yachts to figure out that Hydra’s economy is still based on the sea.
Little Hydra—which has produced more than its share of military heroes, influential aristocrats, and political leaders—is packed with history. Rusted old cannons are scattered about town; black, pitted anchors decorate squares; and small museums hold engaging artifacts. But most visitors enjoy simply being on vacation here. Loiter around the harbor. Go on a photo safari for donkeys and kittens. Take a walk along the coast or up into the hills. Head for an inviting beach, near or far, to sunbathe and swim. Hang out past your bedtime in a cocktail bar. Hydra’s the kind of place that makes you want to buy a bottle of ouzo and toss your itinerary into the sea.
While Hydra can be done as a long day trip from Athens, it’s better to spend at least two nights to take full advantage of the island’s many dining options, and to give yourself a whole day to relax. Even if you’re visiting Mykonos, Santorini, or other Greek islands, Hydra is still the best place I know of to take a vacation from your Greek vacation.
To get your bearings, take my brief self-guided walk as soon as you arrive. While the walk gives you the historic context of the town, it also points out practical stops that will make your stay more efficient and enjoyable (and finishes at a wonderful little bakery). You’ll still have ample time for your choice of activities—dipping into a museum that tickles your curiosity, enjoying a drink at a café, going for a hike into the hills, walking along the water to nearby villages and beaches, or catching a shuttle boat or water taxi for a spin around the island.
Remember, Hydra is the name of both the island and its main town (home to about 90 percent of the island’s 3,000 residents). Hydra town climbs up the hill in every direction from the port.
Branching off from the broad café-lined walkway at the bottom of the harbor are four major streets. In order from the boat dock, these are called Tompazi, Oikonomou, Miaouli, and Lignou. Not that street names mean much in this town—locals ignore addresses, and few lanes are labeled. Though the island is small, Hydra’s streets twist defiantly to and fro. If seeking a specific location, use the map in this chapter or ask a local. (Note that, like our map on here, most maps of Hydra show the harbor—which is actually to the north—at the bottom.) Expect to get lost in Hydra...and enjoy it when you do.
Consider venturing beyond Hydra town to settlements and beaches elsewhere on the island. The most accessible is the tiny seaside hamlet of Kaminia, which lies just over the headland west of the harbor (with a good restaurant—see “Eating in Hydra,” later).
Hydra has no TI, but most of the hoteliers I’ve listed here are happy and willing to help. You can also check www.hydra.gr and the more basic www.hydra.com.gr.
All catamarans and hydrofoils dock in the heart of Hydra town’s harbor, along its eastern edge (for details on how to get to Hydra, see “Hydra Connections” at the end of this chapter). All of my recommended accommodations are within a 10-minute walk of the harbor. At the port you can hire a donkey to carry your bags (€10-15, establish the price up front). If you ask, better hotels will often meet you at the boat and help with your bags.
As there are no cars, your options are foot, donkey, or boat. You’ll walk everywhere in town. You can hike to neighboring beaches, but it’s fun to hop a shuttle boat (about €3 to Vlychos, departures on the half-hour in high season from in front of Hotel Sophia) or take a water taxi (much more expensive unless you’re a small group—same rate for one person or eight). You’ll see the red taxi boats stacked and waiting near the donkeys on the harborfront. Sample taxi fares: €10 to Kaminia, €14 to Mandraki Bay (there’s a fare board lashed to the pole by the taxi dock, with the English translation hiding on the back side). To get back to town by water taxi, call 22980-53690.
Post Office: The post office (Mon-Fri 7:30-14:00, closed Sat-Sun) faces the outdoor market (just inland from the harbor).
Drinking Water: The island’s name means “water” in ancient Greek, but it was named a long, long time ago: Today there’s no natural water source on Hydra (other than private cisterns). Water is barged in daily. No one drinks the tap water here—cheap bottled water is sold everywhere.
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
Hydra clusters around its wide harbor, squeezed full of fishing boats, pleasure craft, luxury yachts, and the occasional Athens-bound hydrofoil or catamaran. Get the lay of the land with this lazy 30-minute stroll.
• Begin at the tip of the port (to the right, as you face the sea). Climb the stairs (by the cactus) to the cannon-studded turret. From here you have a fine...
The harbor is the heart and soul of Hydra. Imagine it as an ancient theater: The houses are the audience, the port is the stage, the boats are the actors...and the Saronic Gulf is the scenic backdrop.
This little town has a history rich with military might, political power, and artistic sophistication. Looking at the arid, barren mountains rising up along the spine of the island, it’s clear that not much grows here—so Hydriots have always turned to the sea for survival. As islanders grew wealthy from the sea trade, prominent local merchant families built the grand mansions that rise up between the modest whitewashed houses blanketing the hillsides. One of these—the Lazaros Kountouriotis Historical Mansion—is open to the public (the yellow mansion with the red roof, high on the hill across the harbor and to the right, with the small, red bell tower nearby; described later).
Another mansion, the rough-stone four-story building directly across from the port (behind the imposing zigzag wall), now houses Hydra’s School of Fine Arts. Artists—Greek and foreign—have long swooned over the gorgeous light that saturates Hydra’s white homes, brown cliffs, and turquoise waters.
Look directly across the mouth of the harbor. Along the base of the walkway, under the seafront café tables, is the town’s closest “beach,” called Spilia (“Cave”)—a concrete pad with ladders luring swimmers into the cool blue. For a more appealing option, you can follow the paved, mostly level path around this point to the fishing hamlet of Kaminia (with a scenic seafood restaurant) and, beyond that, to Vlychos (for the best beach around). Visually trace the ridgeline above that trail, noticing the remains of two old windmills—a fixture on many Greek islands, once used for grinding grain and raw materials for gunpowder. The windmills’ sails are long gone, but the lower one was restored for use as a film prop (for the Sophia Loren film Boy on a Dolphin). Crowning the hill high above are the scant ruins of Hydra’s humble little acropolis.
• Turn your attention to the centerpiece of this viewpoint, the...
The guy at the helm is Admiral Andreas Miaoulis (1768-1835), an Hydriot sea captain who valiantly led the Greek navy in the revolution that began in 1821. This war sought to end nearly four centuries of Ottoman occupation. As war preparations ramped up, the wealthy merchant marine of Hydra transformed their vessels into warships. The Greeks innovated a clever and deadly naval warfare technique: the “fireship.” (For details, see here.) While this kamikaze-burning strategy cost the Greeks a lot of boats, it was even more devastating to the Ottoman navy—and Miaoulis’ naval victory was considered a crucial turning point in the war. For three days each June, Hydra celebrates the Miaoulia Festival, when they set fire to an old ship to commemorate the burning of the Ottoman fleet.
On the monument, the cross that hangs from the steering column represents the eventual triumph of the Christian Greeks over the Muslim Ottomans. Miaoulis’ bones are actually inside the stone pedestal under the statue. The three flags above honor the EU, Greece, and Hydra.
• Head back down the stairs, and begin walking along the harborfront.
After passing an art gallery and the port authority, you reach the stout stone mansion that houses the Historical Archives Museum. This small but good collection (described later, under “Sights in Hydra”) does its best to get visitors excited about Hydra’s history. The gap after the museum is filled with monuments honoring Hydriot heroes. The green plaque in the pillar is a gift from Argentina, to honor an Hydriot aristocrat who fought in the Argentinean war for independence. The next building is the Merchant Marine Academy, where Hydra continues to churn out sailors—many of whom often hang around out front. (During the WWII occupation of Greece, this building was used as a Nazi base.) Next, the row of covered metal benches marks the embarkation point for the hydrofoils (“Flying Dolphins”) and catamarans (“Flying Cats”) that connect Hydra to Athens and other Greek islands for those of us who lack yachts of our own.
Notice the three flags to the right—specifically, the flag of Hydra. Dating from the uprising against the Ottomans, it’s loaded with symbolism: the outline of the island of Hydra topped with a flag with a warrior’s helmet, a cross, and an anchor—all watched over by the protective eye of God. The inscription, H τΑν Ή ΕΠΊ τΑΣ, means “with it or on it,” and evokes the admonition of the warlike Spartans when sending their sons into battle with their huge shields: Come back “with it,” victorious and carrying your shield; or “on it,” dead, with your shield serving as a stretcher to carry your body home.
When you reach the corner of the harbor, you’ll likely see donkeys and mules shooing flies as they wait to plod into town with visitors’ luggage lashed to their backs. The donkeys are not just a touristy gimmick, but a lifestyle choice: Hydriots have decided not to allow any motorized vehicles on their island, keeping this place quiet and tranquil, and reducing pollution (now just donkey poop). This means that, aside from a few garbage trucks, these beasts of burden are the only way to get around. It’s not unusual to see one with a major appliance strapped to its back, as it gingerly navigates the steps up to the top of town. Locals dress their burros up with rugs, beads, and charms. Behind each mule-train toils a human pooper-scooper. On Hydra a traffic jam looks like a farm show. And instead of the testosterone-fueled revving of moped engines, Hydra’s soundtrack features the occasional, distant whinnying of a donkey echoing over the rooftops.
In the same corner as the donkeys is the dock for the feisty fleet of red water taxis. These zip constantly from here to remote points around the island. Meanwhile, simple fishing boats squeeze between the luxury yachts to put in and unload their catch...eyed hungrily by scrawny cats.
Hang a right and continue along the bottom of the harbor. At this corner (next to the Alpha Bank) is Sahtouri street, which soon becomes Tompazi, and quickly devolves into a twisty warren of lanes with many hotels. Continue along the harbor, past a tiny dead-end lane leading to a good bakery. As you stroll, window-shop the cafés and choose one to return to later. Overhead, notice the ingenious rope system the seafaring Hydriots have rigged so that they can quickly draw a canopy over the seating area—like unfurling the sails on a ship—in the event of rain...or, more common here, overpowering sunshine. Next, skinny Oikonomou street leads to shops and the open-air Gardenia Cinema. A few steps farther, another narrow lane leads to the post office, public WC, and Hydra’s ramshackle little market hall.
Hydra is known for its jewelry. A few shops right here on the harbor, such as Zoe’s and Elena Votsi, sell the handiwork of Hydriot designers and artists (Votsi is locally famous as the designer of the 2004 Olympic medals). Many Hydra hoteliers supplement their income by running jewelry shops, often with the same name as their hotels (good to know if you need to find your hotelier at midday). The next street, Navarhou Miaouli, bustles with appealing tavernas.
Shuttle boats line up along the next stretch of the quay. They offer cheap rides to points around the island—a service much appreciated by the owners of Hydra’s many remote cafés and tavernas (but which annoys the water-taxi drivers).
• Near the far corner of the harbor stands a symbol of Hydra, the clock tower of the...
Hydra’s ecclesiastical center is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin. “Dormition”—as in “sleep”—is a Greek euphemism for death. Orthodox Christians believe Mary died a human death, then (like her son) was resurrected three days later, before being assumed into heaven.
Go through the archway under the tower, and you’ll emerge into what was, until 1832, an active monastery. The double-decker arcade of cells circling the courtyard was once the monks’ living quarters; it now houses the offices of the city government and mayor.
The monastery’s church, which doubles as Hydra’s mitropolis (cathedral), is free to enter. Stepping inside, it’s clear that this was a wealthy community—compare the marble iconostasis, silver chandelier, gorgeous Pantocrator dome decoration, rich icons, and frescoes with the humbler decor you’ll see at small-town churches elsewhere in Greece. Just inside the door (to the left), the icon of the Virgin and Child is believed to work miracles. Notice the many votive rings and necklaces draping it as a thank-you for prayers answered.
Back in the courtyard, you’ll see war memorials and monuments to beloved Hydriots. The humble Byzantine Museum (up the stairs across the courtyard) displays a few rooms of glittering icons, vestments, and other ecclesiastical paraphernalia (€2, some English labels but not much information, generally Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon).
• If the doorway’s open under the museum, exit here onto Votsi street (otherwise, return to the harborfront, then hang a left up the next street). From this spot (either straight ahead or around the right side of the yellow butcher’s shop) stairs head to the upper reaches of town, and eventually lead over the headland and down to the village and little harbor of Kaminia. For now, though, keep to the left, walking toward the orange-tree-filled square.
Tidy Votsi Square has a chess set, a cannon, and lots of cats. Hydriots love their cats, perhaps because they share a similar temperament: tender, relaxed, but secretly vigilant and fiercely independent. At the bottom of the square (on the left) is Flora’s Pastry Shop, where we’ll finish our stroll.
For now, keep walking about 100 feet above the square until the lane hits the old-time Rafalias Pharmacy. The pharmacy is an institution in town, and Vangelis Rafalias has kept it just as his grandfather did. He welcomes the browsing public, so take a look. Just inside the window, on the far right wall, is a photo of Jackie Onassis visiting Hydra. (If you like to dance, ask about attending one of Rafalias’ tango classes, held each summer in the big garden behind his pharmacy.)
With your back to the pharmacy, one lane leads to the left, heading uphill to the site of the original town, which was positioned inland to be safely away from marauding pirates. We’ll head in the other direction, right, and slightly downhill, rounding the building on the left to the little Square of the Five Prime Ministers. The monument, with five medallions flanked by cannons, celebrates the five Hydriots who were chosen for Greece’s highest office in the nearly two centuries since independence. It’s an impressive civic contribution from a little island town, perhaps due to Hydra’s seafaring wealth and its proximity to the Greek capitals (Nafplio, then Athens). From here narrow, stepped, cobblestone lanes invite exploration of Hydra’s quiet side.
But for now, continue left and downhill, back to Votsi Square. The recommended Flora’s Pastry Shop is at the bottom of the square, on the right. Treat yourself to a homemade ice cream or baklava. Or, for something more traditional, try the local favorite—galaktoboureko (gha-lahk-toh-boo-re-KOH), which is cinnamon-sprinkled egg custard baked between layers of phyllo.
This fine little museum, in an old mansion right along the port, shows off a small, strangely fascinating collection of Hydra’s history and has good English descriptions throughout.
Cost and Hours: €5, includes temporary art exhibits, daily March-Oct 9:00-16:00 & 19:30-21:30, Nov-Feb 8:00-15:00, along the eastern side of the harbor near the hydrofoil/catamaran dock, tel. 22980-52355, www.iamy.gr.
Visiting the Museum: The core of the exhibit is upstairs. At the top of the stairs, look straight ahead for a tattered, yellowed old map by Rigas Feraios from 1797. Depicting a hypothetical and generously defined “Hellenic Republic,” it claims virtually the entire Balkan Peninsula (from the Aegean to the Danube) for Greece. The map features historical and cultural tidbits of the time (such as drawings of coins from various eras), making it a treasure trove for historians. Drawn at a time when the Greeks had been oppressed by the Ottomans for centuries, the map—with 1,200 copies printed and distributed—helped to rally support for what would become a successful revolution starting in 1821.
The stairwell to the top floor is lined with portraits of “firebrands”—sailors (many of them Hydriots) who burned the Ottoman fleet during the war. They were considered the “body and soul” of the Greek navy in 1821. To learn more about their techniques, head behind the map and veer left into a long, narrow room; in its center, find the model of a “fireship” used for these attacks. These vessels were loaded with barrels of gunpowder, with large ventilation passages cut into the deck and hull. Suspended from the masts were giant, barbed, fishing-lure-like hooks. (Two actual hooks flank the model.) After ramming an enemy ship and dropping the hooks into its deck to attach the two vessels, the Greek crew would light the fuse and escape in a little dinghy...leaving their ship behind to become a giant firetrap, engulfing the Ottoman vessel in flames. Also in this room are nautical maps and models and paintings of other Hydriot vessels.
Continuing into the biggest room (immediately behind the old map), you’ll see a Greek urn in the center containing the actual, embalmed heart of local hero Andreas Miaoulis. On the walls are portraits of V.I.H.s (very important Hydriots). Rounding out the collection is a small room of weapons.
Because of Hydra’s merchant-marine prosperity, the town has many fine aristocratic mansions...but only this one is open to the public. Lazaros Kountouriotis (koon-doo-ree-OH-tees, 1769-1852) was a wealthy Hydriot shipping magnate who helped fund the Greek War of Independence. He donated 120 of his commercial ships to be turned into warships, representing three-quarters of the Greek navy. Today Kountouriotis is revered as a local and national hero, and his mansion offers visitors a glimpse into the lifestyles of the 18th-century Greek rich and famous.
Cost and Hours: €4, daily June-Aug 10:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:00, Sept 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:00, April-May and Oct 10:00-14:00, closed Nov-March, on the hillside above town, signposted off the stepped Lignou street, tel. 22980-52421.
Visiting the Mansion: The main building of Kountouriotis’ former estate is a fine example of aristocratic Hydriot architecture of the late 18th century, combining elements of Northern Greek, Saronic Gulf Island, and Italian architecture. The house has changed little since its heyday.
You’ll enter on the second floor, with several period-decorated rooms. These reception rooms have beautiful wood-paneled ceilings, and are furnished with all the finery of the period. Included is the statesman’s favorite armchair, where you can imagine him spending many hours pondering the shape of the emerging Greek nation. Then you’ll head upstairs to see a collection of traditional costumes and jewelry from throughout Greece, labeled in English. The lower floor displays the art of the local Byzantinos family: father Pericles (hazy, Post-Impressionistic landscapes and portraits) and son Constantinos (dark sketches and boldly colorful modern paintings).
Although Hydra’s beaches are nothing to get excited about, there’s no shortage of places to swim. There’s one swimming spot in Hydra town—the rest are reachable by foot, shuttle boat, or water taxi. Three decent beaches within a pleasant, easy walk of Hydra are Mandraki Bay, Kaminia Castello, and Vlychos. Distant beaches on the southwestern tip of the island (Bisti and Ag. Nikolaos) really get you away from it all, but are best reached by boat.
The only spot to swim in town is Spilia (“Cave”), at the western entrance to Hydra harbor. There you’ll find steps that lead down to a series of small concrete platforms with ladders into the sea—but no showers or changing rooms. (Spilia appears to belong to the adjacent café, but anyone is welcome to swim here.)
This reasonable pebble beach is to the east of Hydra, near the main coastal path (30-minute walk from the eastern end of the harbor, regular €3 shuttle boat from Hydra). The beach is dominated by the Hotel Miramare, which rents windsurfing boards and other water-sports equipment, but you don’t need to be a hotel guest to swim or sunbathe. If it’s sun you’re after, Mandraki is best earlier in the day, as the hills around it bring shade in the late afternoon.
To the west of town is the delightful little harbor of Kaminia (15-minute walk). Just beyond that you’ll find a restaurant and bar called Castello above the small Kaminia Castello Beach. While handy, the beach can be overwhelmed by the musical taste of the kids who run the bar, and is often crowded with lots of families. For walking directions, see “Walks,” next page.
Located past Kaminia, Vlychos is my favorite. Like a little tropical colony, 20 thatched umbrellas mark a quiet stretch of pebbly beach. You’ll pay €3 for a lounge chair and €3 for an umbrella. There are showers, a café, and the Marina Taverna for a meal (daily in summer for lunch and dinner, lunch only in off-season, tel. 22980-52496). In peak tourist season, a shuttle boat zips from Hydra to Vlychos twice an hour (leaving Hydra on the half-hour, until sunset—confirm last boat time, about €3). The 40-minute walk from Hydra to Vlychos is great (described next).
The walk from Hydra town to the cute cove of Kaminia and the excellent beach at Vlychos (both described earlier) is one of my favorites. While the walk leads to two beaches, it’s perfectly pleasant whether or not you’re taking a dip.
For the easy approach, simply follow the mostly level coastal path that runs west from Hydra town to the villages of Kaminia and Vlychos. As you curve out of Hydra, you’ll pass the town’s best-preserved windmill, which was reconstructed for the 1957 Sophia Loren film Boy on a Dolphin. Look for a plaque at the windmill honoring the film that attracted many celebrities to Hydra.
After about 15 minutes, you’ll find yourself in delightful Kaminia, where two dozen tough little fishing boats jostle within a breakwater. With cafés, a tiny beach, and a good taverna (see here), this is a wonderful place to watch island life go by.
Continue through Kaminia where the donkey path climbs a cliff, passing Kaminia Castello Beach. Soon you’re all alone with great sea views. Ten minutes or so later, you round a bluff, descend into a ravine, cross an Ottoman-style single-arched bridge, and drop into Vlychos, with its welcoming little beach.
From Vlychos a different, high trail leads back into Hydra (30 minutes, lit at night).
The Hydra-Kaminia High Road: For an alternate route to Kaminia, find your way up Hydra’s maze of stepped lanes that lace the hills just west and south of town. Here, shabby homes enjoy grand views, tethering off-duty burros seems unnecessary, and island life trudges on, oblivious to tourism. Feel your way up and over the headland, then descend into Kaminia. Along the way, look for dry, paved riverbeds, primed for the flash floods that fill village cisterns each winter. (You can also climb all the way up to the remains of Hydra’s humble acropolis, topping the hill due west of the harbor.)
Beyond walking to a nearby beach, Hydra is popular for its network of ancient paths that link the island’s outlying settlements, churches, and monasteries. Most of the paths are well maintained and clearly marked, but serious hikers should pick up a copy of Anavasi’s excellent 1:25,000 map of Hydra (€5, sold locally). If you do venture into the hills, wear sturdy shoes, sunscreen, and a hat, and take your own water and picnic supplies.
Locals, proud of the extravagant yachts that flock to the island, like to tell of movie stars who make regular visits. But the island is so quiet that, by midnight, all the high-rollers seem to be back onboard watching movies.
And yet there are plenty of options to keep visitors busy. People enjoy watching a film at the town’s outdoor cinema or nursing a drink along the harborfront—there are plenty of mellow cocktail bars proudly serving “Paradise in a Glass” for €8.
Pirate Bar is run by a hardworking family serving drinks and light bites all day long from a prime spot on the water, at the little lane just past Lignou. The son, Zeus, runs the night shift and is famous for his Lychee Martini. This is a mellow, trendy spot to be late at night (tel. 22980-52711).
Amalour Bar, run by Alexandros and his gang of good-looking bald guys, is “the place to fall in love” (or just enjoy wonderful music and good drinks). There’s no sea view here—just cool music played at the right volume inside, and tables outside tumbling down a cobbled lane. It’s easy jazz until midnight, and then harder music (€6 cocktails during the 20:00-23:00 nightly “happy hour,” just up Tompazi street from the harbor, mobile 697-746-1357).
Hydronetta Bar, catering to a younger crowd with younger music, offers great sea views from under the “Sofia Loren windmill,” with a bunch of romantic tables nestled within the ramparts and cannons (tel. 22980-54160). Reach it by walking along the coastline past Spilia Beach and through the Sunset Restaurant. This and the neighboring Spilia cocktail bar charge €9 for cocktails and are the most touristy of Hydra’s nightlife choices.
Gardenia Cinema is part of a great Greek summer tradition: watching movies in the open air. Hydra’s delightful outdoor theater, lovingly run by the local cinema club, is right in the center of town on Oikonomou street; it shows movies in the original language on summer weekends (€8, July-mid-Sept nightly at 21:00 and 23:00, tel. 22980-53105).
Hydra has ample high-quality accommodations. Unfortunately, the prices are also high—more expensive than anywhere on the Peloponnese, and rivaling those in Athens. Prices max out in the summer (June-mid-Sept), and I’ve generally listed these top rates. Outside of these times, most accommodations offer discounts (even if not noted here)—always ask. Longer stays might also garner you a deal. If you’re stuck, the boat ticket offices on the harbor-front might be able to help you find a room. If you arrive with no reservation and sniff around, you can generally find a rough little place with soft prices renting doubles for around €50. Some cheaper hotels don’t provide breakfast, in which case you can eat for around €6 at various cafés around town. Communication can be challenging at a few of the cheaper places (as noted). If there’s an elevator anywhere in town, I’ve never seen it (though no hotel has more than three stories). Because Hydra has a labyrinthine street plan and most people ignore street names, I list no addresses, so use the map on here and follow signs posted around town. Most accommodations in Hydra close down for the winter (typically Nov-Feb, sometimes longer).
The lack of local spring water means that Hydra’s very hard water is shipped in from wetter islands, which can make showering or doing laundry—and rinsing out stubborn suds—an odd frustration. When I’m here in the summer, I take several showers a day to cool off, but I don’t bother washing my hair.
$$$ Hotel Sophia is a plush little boutique hotel right above the harbor restaurant strip. It’s been family-run since 1934; today English-speaking sisters Angelika and Vasiliki are at the helm. The six thoughtfully appointed rooms, while a little tight, are stony-chic, with high ceilings, heavy exposed beams, tiny-but-posh bathrooms, and good windows that manage to block out most of the harbor noise. All the rooms have access to a little balcony, giving you a royal box seat overlooking all the harbor action (Db-€80-140 depending on the room, 10 percent discount with this book if paying cash and staying at least two nights, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-52313, www.hotelsophia.gr, hydra@hotelsophia.gr).
$$$ Hotel Leto is the island’s closest thing to a business-class hotel, offering great service with a professional vibe, 21 well-appointed rooms, and inviting public spaces (Db-€165-185, Tb-€204-228, higher prices for rooms with snazzy marble bathrooms, free Wi-Fi on first floor, tel. 22980-53385, www.letohydra.gr, letoydra@otenet.gr, Kari).
$$$ Phaedra Hotel rents seven spacious and tasteful rooms. Helpful owner Hilda takes pride in her hotel, and it shows (Sb-€110, standard Db-€120, superior Db with balcony-€170, family studio-€180, superior 2-room Qb suite with private veranda-€280, prices soft off-season, great breakfast, open year-round, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-53330, mobile 697-221-3111, www.phaedrahotel.com, info@phaedrahotel.com).
$$$ Nefeli Hotel is a place apart, providing travelers an idyllic refuge high above the town. For the seclusion-seeking traveler, the steep 10-minute hike to get to this villa is a blessing (for €15, mule driver Giorgos can bring your bags up from the harbor on his donkey). The eight mostly white rooms are thoughtfully decorated, and the hotel’s generous terraces and patios have stay-awhile lounge chairs, backgammon sets, yoga mats, and classic sunset views. With their warm expat welcome, Aussie Brett and Brit-Greek Alexandra create an ambience that forges friendships (Db-€75-130 depending on room and season, two-night minimum, free Wi-Fi, lots of helpful information, tel. 22980-53297, www.hotelnefeli.eu, info@hotelnefeli.eu).
$$ Hotel Miranda, in a sea captain’s house from the early 19th-century, is filled with an elegant nautical charm that feels almost New England-y—it’s the most atmospheric of my listings. Its 14 stylish rooms are bright with whitewashed stone, and surround a classy terrace (Sb-€80-130, Db-€100, superior Db with sea view-€150, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-52230, www.mirandahotel.gr, mirandahydra@hol.gr).
$$ Alkionides Pension offers 10 smartly renovated rooms around a beautiful and relaxing courtyard, and is buried in Hydra’s back lanes (Db-€80, Tb-€96, apartment-€100, breakfast-€7.50, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-54055, mobile 697-741-0460, www.alkionidespension.com, info@alkionidespension.com, Kofitsas family).
$$ Mistral Hotel is a well-run, basic place offering 17 rooms in a comfortable, modern-equipped, ivy-covered stone building with a central lounge and a breezy courtyard. It’s a fine value at the very quiet, top part of town (Db-€100, big Db with view-€150, free Wi-Fi in lobby and courtyard, tel. 22980-52509, www.hotelmistral.gr, info@hotelmistral.gr, Theo and Jenny serve a particularly good breakfast).
$$ Greco Hotel rents 19 rooms set above one of the shadiest, lushest gardens in town—it’s where lovely owner Maria Keramidas serves a homemade breakfast...and where you’ll be tempted to just relax and do nothing all afternoon (Sb-€65, Db-€65-110, Tb-€80-120, prices depend on season and length of stay—email them and ask for best price, breakfast-€10, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-53200, www.grecohotel.gr, info@grecohotel.gr; Maria speaks little English, but son Alkis is around to help).
$$ Ippokampos Hotel has 16 pleasant rooms around a cocktail-bar courtyard. The four top-floor rooms open right onto the seaview patio that’s accessible to all guests. The suite is a few notches up in quality and amenities, with its own private veranda (Sb-€50-75, Db-€80-90, Db suite-€130-160, Tb-€85-115, prices very soft for second-floor rooms depending on demand and length of stay, free Wi-Fi, bar closes at 23:00, hotel closed Nov-March, tel. 22980-53453, www.ippokampos.com, ippo@ippokampos.com, owner Sotiris).
$ Pension Erofili is a reliable budget standby in the heart of town, renting 12 basic but tasteful rooms just off (or over) a relaxing little courtyard (Db-€55—this special price with this book if you reserve direct, Tb-€65, apartment-€90, cheaper in off-season, expansive homemade breakfast-€7.50, open year-round, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-54049, mobile 697-768-8487, www.pensionerofili.gr, info@pensionerofili.gr, George and Irene).
$ Pension Achilleas rents 13 decent rooms in an old mansion with a relaxing courtyard terrace and a gorgeous seaview roof patio. Request one of the upstairs rooms (they’re brighter), and try to land one with a balcony (high season: Sb-€50, Db-€75, Tb-€90, apartment-€150; low season: Sb-€40, Db-€60, Tb-€85, apartment-€130; cash only, free Wi-Fi, tel. 22980-52050, www.achilleaspension.gr, kofitsas@otenet.gr, Dina speaks only a little English).
$ Spalieri’s Dhomatia has three rooms in a cheery home. The units, though simple, are spacious. There’s a community kitchen where you enjoy a self-serve breakfast, plus a welcoming garden courtyard. Staying with the Spalieri family provides a homier experience than at most other places in town (D-€60-70, Qb-€100, next to Pension Achilleas, tel. 22980-52894, mobile 694-414-1977, www.hydra.com.gr/spalieri, minimal English).
There are dozens of places to eat, offering everything from humble gyros to slick modern-Mediterranean cuisine. Harbor views come with higher prices; places farther inland typically offer better value.
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
Psaropoula Restaurant fills the best spot in town, right on the harborfront, with rustic blue tables. While its interior is boring, its outside tables let you enjoy the strolling scene and almost bob with the tied-up yachts. Hydriots appreciate the classic Greek cuisine, and the prices are very fair—about what you’d pay without the prime location. Check out their big display case just inside to see what’s cooking (€3-6 starters, €7-14 seafood starters, €7-11 main dishes, €15-25 seafood dishes, daily 12:00-23:00, tel. 22980-52630).
Taverna Gitoniko, better known as “Manolis and Christina’s” for its warm and kindly owners, is a Hydra institution. Offering wonderful hospitality, delicious food, and delightful rooftop-garden seating, this tricky-to-find taverna is worth seeking out for a memorable meal. Christina works magic with the produce she snaps up fresh from the market—everything is good here. Order a selection of creative first courses (consider their delicious, smoky eggplant salad and fried-zucchini tarts) and check their daily specials (€4-6 starters, €6-10 main dishes, seafood splurges, daily for lunch and dinner, closed Nov-Feb, Spilios Haramis, tel. 22980-53615).
Veranda Restaurant, perched on a terrace with fine views over the town and harbor, wins the best ambience award. It’s great on a summer evening; enjoy a cold drink before selecting from a menu that offers pasta served a dozen different ways and a creative assortment of salads (€9-16 seafood starters and pastas, €10-15 traditional main dishes, €15-20 seafood dishes, better-than-average wine list, daily 18:00-late, halfway up the steps on Sahini lane or up a long staircase from the Lignou steps, tel. 22980-52259, Andreas).
Tavernas on Miaouli Street: Hydra’s busiest street leading up from the port (to the left of the monastery bell tower) is crammed with appealing little tavernas that jostle for your attention with outdoor seating and good food.
Souvlaki: For a quick, cheap (€2.50) meal, souvlaki is your best bet. For a civilized, sit-down souvlaki experience, drop by The Onion Souvlaki (Και Κρεμμύδι), a cute eatery filling a charming corner up Tompazi street, next to the Amalour Bar.
Cafés on the Harbor: Enjoy the scene as you nurse a drink here—drivers rolling their pushcarts, donkeys sneezing, taxi-boat drivers haggling, big boats coming and going. For a meal, try Café Isalos (“Waterline”), with a fun menu of light bites (€6 salads, €7-10 sandwiches, €11-16 pizzas, good €3 iced coffees). In the early evening, watch for yachts trying to dock; some are driven by pros and others aren’t, providing a comedic scene of naval inexperience.
Dessert: Flora’s Pastry Shop is a hardworking little bakery cranking out the best pastries and homemade ice cream on the island. Flora has delightful tables that overlook Votsi Square, just behind the monastery. She sells all the traditional local sweets, including honey treats such as baklava. Many of her ingredients come from her farm on the nearby island of Dokos (daily 7:00-24:00).
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
A great way to cap your Hydra day is to follow the coastal path to the rustic and picturesque village of Kaminia, which hides behind the headland from Hydra. Kaminia’s pocket-sized harbor shelters the community’s fishing boats. Here, with a glass of ouzo and some munchies, as the sun slowly sinks into the sea and boats become silhouettes, you can drink to the beauties of a Greek isle escape. Consider combining with a late-afternoon stroll (along the seafront, see here).
Kodylenia’s Taverna is perched on a bluff just over the Kaminia harbor. With my favorite irresistible dinner views on Hydra, this scenic spot lets you watch the sun dip gently into the Saronic Gulf, with Kaminia’s adorable port in the foreground. Owner Dimitris takes his own boat out early in the morning to buy the day’s best catch directly from the fishermen. For meals, you can sit out on the shady covered side terrace above the harbor—check the chalkboard to see what’s freshest today. For drinks, sit out front on the porch. Relax and take in a sea busy with water taxis, hydrofoils that connect this oasis with Athens, old freighters—like castles of rust—lumbering slowly along the horizon, and cruise ships anchored as if they haven’t moved in weeks (€4-9 starters, €9-14 meat dishes—visit their display case and see what’s cooking, for a seafood meal figure €12-60 per person depending on what you order, daily 11:00-24:00, closed Dec-Feb, tel. 22980-53520).
Hydra is easily reached from Athens’s port at Piraeus via the Hellenic Seaways ferry, either the “Flying Dolphin” or the slightly larger catamaran, called a “Flying Cat” (4/day, possibly more in summer, 1.5-2 hours, €26).
When to Buy Tickets: Because these boats are virtually the only game in town, it’s wise to book well in advance (at least a week ahead in summer). They can sell out during summer weekends, when boats are packed with Athenians headed to or from their Hydra getaway. Outside of summer, it’s safe to assume that tickets will be available up to a day or two in advance.
Where to Buy Tickets: You can reserve a ticket on the Hellenic Seaways website (www.hellenicseaways.gr), and then pick it up at a travel agency, a Hellenic Seaways ticket office, or at an automated machine at Piraeus. Or buy a ticket in person soon after you arrive in Greece (tickets sold for the same price at any travel agency). You can cancel or change your ticket up to 24 hours before departure in peak season, or two hours before departure in the off-season, though local travel agencies and ferry offices don’t always make changes as easy as they should.
In Hydra you can buy tickets at the Hellenic Seaways office, just down an alley near the Alpha Bank (open anytime boats are running, tel. 22980-54007 or 22980-53812).
Cancellations: Be aware that boats can be delayed, or even cancelled, if the weather’s bad enough. If your boat back to Athens from Hydra is cancelled and you have a plane to catch, you could hire a water taxi to zip you across to the mainland, and then take a taxi all the way to Athens—but this costs upward of €200.
For more advice on navigating the Greek ferry system, see here.
Three types of boats connect Hydra and the Peloponnese. The “Freedom Boat” works well only for drivers (for whom it’s the best option); Hellenic Seaways ferries and Pegasus Tours boats are better for those traveling by public transit.
If Traveling the Peloponnese by Car Before Hydra: Drive to Metochi, park your car (€5/day), and hop the “Freedom Boat,” with the quickest and most frequent service to Hydra (€6.50, about 8/day in summer, 4/day in winter, 12 minutes, mobile 694-424-2141, www.hydralines.gr). Metochi is the spot on the mainland closest to Hydra, with little there besides a ticket office, a parking lot, and a small boat pier. If you show up and find there won’t be a boat for a while, ask whether someone has summoned a water taxi, which can cost about the same as the Freedom Boat if you split the cost with other travelers (€35-50/trip, can split with up to eight people).
If Traveling the Peloponnese by Car After Hydra: It can be time-efficient to take the ferry from Athens to Hydra, then continue by ferry from Hydra to Ermioni—described next—where it’s possible to rent a car (rather than returning to Athens to rent a car, then driving to the Peloponnese). However, if you look into this option, be warned that rental options are somewhat sparse, and be sure to ask about extra fees for dropping the car off in a different city (Athens or elsewhere) at the end of your trip (likely at least €35).
If Traveling the Peloponnese by Bus: Without a car, your best bet is the Hellenic Seaways ferry from Ermioni (a.k.a. Hermioni), southeast of Nafplio (3/day in summer, 2/day on weekends in off-season, 25 minutes, €10). Unfortunately, the connection between Ermioni and Nafplio is more complicated than it should be (see “Nafplio Connections” on here).
A much less-frequent excursion boat operated by Pegasus Tours from the port at Tolo is easier to get to from Nafplio, but leaves only a few times a week, can be cancelled on short notice (if not enough passengers—mainly in off-season), and requires an early-morning (though short) bus ride (3-4 boats/week in high season, less frequently off-season, 3 hours, €17, tel. 27520-59430, www.pegasus-cruises.gr, easiest to book through Stavropoulos Tours in central Nafplio—see here). For information on reaching Tolo, see “Nafplio Connections” on here.