FRESH
AND MODERN
WORK IN A PALETTE OF MUTED SHADES OF ROSE, BLUSH, AND CANDY PINKS TO CREATE A SOFT AND FEMININE WALL HANGING. LENGTHS OF ROVING CREATE A SELECTION OF DIFFERENT ACCENTS AND FINISHES.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 32½yd (29.7m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in worsted weight (Aran), roving, and light worsted weight (double knitting): this project uses approximately 1oz (25g) of brown chainette light worsted (double knitting) (yarn A), 1¾oz (50g) of pink merino silk light worsted (double knitting) (yarn B), 1¾oz (50g) of cream worsted weight (Aran) (yarn C), 4½yd (4m) of rose-pink silk light worsted (double knitting) (yarn D), ¾oz (20g) of dove-gray roving (yarn E), 1¾yd (1.5m) of white roving (yarn F), and 12 ½in (32cm) of light pink roving (yarn G)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 10in (25cm) long
✦ White acrylic paint and artist’s paintbrush
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Multiple warp tabby weaving, page 14
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Working with roving, page 16
✦ Soumak, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 9 ⅞ x 11¾ in (25 x 30cm) including tassels
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 9⅞in (25cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 48 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 49) and using yarn C, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 4 rows.
4 Cut 72 lengths of yarn A, each measuring 10¼in (26cm). Divide them into 24 bundles of 3 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 24 equally spaced rya knots (see page 18) across the row. Trim the tassels of the rya knots to 4¾in (12cm).
5 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows. Use the comb to position the rows straight against the row of rya knots.
6 Cut 72 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 7⅞in (20cm). Divide them into 24 bundles of 3 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 24 equally spaced rya knots. Once secure, trim the tassels of the rya knots to 3⅜in (8.5cm).
7 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 4 rows. Use the comb to position the rows straight against the row of rya knots.
8 Change to a length of yarn E and work a row of double soumak weaving (see page 17) across the width of the loom, working each soumak knot over 8 warp threads to create 6 soumak knots evenly spaced over the row. Note that the roving will create soumak that measures approximately 1½–2⅜in (4–6cm) wide and will overlap the tabby weaving on either side due to the voluminous nature of the roving.
9 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 9 rows.
10 Draw out a length of yarn F and smooth the fibers to lie flat (see page 16). Working over the first 16 warps on the right-hand side of the loom, work 4 rows of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps (see page 14).
11 Returning to yarn C, work in tabby weaving to fill in the left-hand side of the work; this will need more than 4 rows of weaving as the roving is more voluminous than the yarn. Continue until the tabby in yarn C is level with the top of the roving, then work 7 more rows in tabby in yarn C across all the warp threads.
12 Draw out a length of yarn G and smooth the fibers to lie flat. Work one row of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps.
13 Change to yarn C and work in tabby weaving for 6 rows.
14 Change to yarn D and work in tabby weaving over the first 18 warps on the left-hand side of the loom for two rows. Increase (see page 15) by 2 more warps and work another 2 rows in tabby. Continue increasing by 2 warps after every 2 rows until the weaving covers 24 warps. Increase again to work one row over 26 warps, then decrease following the same pattern, decreasing by 2 warps after every 2 rows until 2 rows of 20 warps have been worked.
15 Return to yarn C and fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the loom. Work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace (see page 15) the woven yarn D section and the background where the two sections meet. Continue working in tabby until one row of 22 warps has been worked.
16 Draw out a length of yarn F and smooth the fibers to lie flat. Work one row of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps. Use the roving to curve around the shaping of the yarn D tabby on the left-hand side, and to fill the space on the right-hand side above the yarn C tabby.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Introduce richer shades of plum and violet for a bolder, more colorful hanging.
17 Change to yarn C and work 22 rows in tabby weaving.
18 Cut 7 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 17¾in (45cm). Holding them all together and flat, work one row in multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps. Draw the yarn out to equal lengths on each side of the loom, re-arranging the ends so that they protrude between the two outermost warps on each side. Overhand knot (see page 21) the lengths neatly together at the sides, close to the outer warp thread. Trim the resulting tassels to each measure 2in (5cm).
19 Draw out a length of yarn E and smooth the fibers to lie flat. Work four rows of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps.
20 Change to yarn C and work 6 rows in tabby weaving.
CREATING TEXTURE
Sections of roving can be eased and teased out to create more dramatic volume—here the knots on the soumak have been drawn out more on the left-hand side than on the right to create an increase in size.
USING THE YARNS
When using roving smoothed flat to create tabby, try not to beat it down too much as this will reduce the volume of the fibers.
MAKE IT YOURS
For a different finish, you can use lengths of velvet ribbon for the flat woven sections to replace the lengths of yarn or roving.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
21 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
22 Weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
23 Cut the warps, leaving them as long as possible. Working in pairs, hold 2 warp threads together and tie an overhand knot (see page 21), sliding the knot up to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all top and bottom warps have been knotted. Trim the bottom warps short. Trim the top warps to about 3⅛in (8cm).
24 Paint the dowel white with acrylic paint, applying a second coat if needed. Leave to dry.
25 Close to the ends, overhand knot the top warps in pairs, making sure the resulting loops are all the same size. Slide the dowel into the loops. Make a hanging loop from a short length of warping cotton.
CREATE A MODERN, PENNANT-SHAPED WEAVING BY WORKING SIMPLE DECREASES ACROSS THE LOOM, AND ACCENTING THE SHAPING WITH EXTRA-LONG RYA KNOT TASSELS.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 23yd (21m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in worsted weight (Aran) and roving: this project uses approximately ¾–1¼oz (20–30g) of green cotton worsted weight (Aran) (yarn A), 1¾oz (50g) of cream worsted weight (Aran) (yarn B), and 27½in (70cm) of dove-gray roving (yarn C)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 15in (38cm) long
✦ Copper acrylic paint and artist’s paintbrush
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Working with roving, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 10½ x 4in (27 x 10cm) excluding rya tassels, and 20⅞in (53cm) deep including longest rya tassel
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 11in (28cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 34 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 52) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 4 rows. Decrease (see page 15) by 1 warp at each end of the next row, then work 3 rows straight. Continue decreasing in this pattern until 28 rows have been worked in total.
4 Draw out a length of yarn C and smooth the fibers to lie flat (see page 16). Working across the central 8 warp threads, work two rows in tabby weaving then decrease by 1 warp at the end of each of the next two rows. Continue in tabby weaving, decreasing as set over 8 rows to make a triangle. Take the weft over the visible warp thread in the last row, then through to the back.
5 Using yarn A, fill in the background sections on either side of the roving triangle, keeping the overall shape by continuing to decrease on each side by 1 warp at each end of a row then working 3 rows straight. Work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace (see page 15) the woven triangle and the background where the two sections meet.
6 When the background is level with the point of the roving triangle, continue decreasing in the established pattern until you weave 2 last rows over only the 2 central warps. Take the weft over the visible warp thread in the last row, then through to the back to complete the triangle.
7 Cut 68 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 35½in (90cm). Divide them into 17 bundles of 4 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 1 rya knot (see page 18) at the tip of the triangle. Then work 8 equally spaced rya knots from the outer edge of the triangle down towards the tip.
8 With yarn B and following the shaping of the triangle edge, work a border in tabby down one side of the triangle, over the tip, and up the second side.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
9 Weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
10 Cut the lower warps, leaving them as long as possible. Working in pairs, overhand knot (see page 21) the warp threads tightly against the cream tabby; as there is no twisted header, this will secure the weaving in place. Trim the warp threads neatly.
11 Paint the dowel copper with acrylic paint, applying a second coat if needed. Leave to dry.
12 Position the dowel above the weaving and overhand knot the top warps securely over the dowel, sliding the knots down tightly (see page 21). Trim the ends short.
13 Trim the ends of the rya knots to make the tassels form a neat point. Make a hanging loop from a short length of yarn A.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
This pennant works well in bold colors; go girly with a hot pink yarn instead of the green.
Switch out the roving and replace it with some jersey yarn or ribbon for a different look to the center portion of the weaving.
USING THE YARNS
Ease out the roving as you work to make some stitches more voluminous than others.
MAKE IT EASY
The long tassels of the rya knots can become tangled and get in the way while you work, so keep them tidy by tying them into a neat bundle with a length of off-cut yarn while you complete the make.
CHANGE UP THE LOOK OF YOUR WEAVING MAKES WITH THE ADDITION OF SOME SPARKLING BEADED TRIM AND LACE TO GIVE A VERY DIFFERENT FINISH!
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 37yd (33.7m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in worsted weight (Aran), roving, bead accented trimming, lace (craft/florist roll): this project uses approximately ¾oz (20g) of cream worsted weight (Aran) (yarn A), 39in (1m) craft lace, 19½in (50cm) red sparkle beaded accent trim (yarn B), ¾oz (20g) of white roving (yarn C), and ¾oz (20g) of pink roving (yarn D)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 11¼in (28.5cm) long
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Multiple warp tabby weaving, page 14
✦ Working with roving, page 16
✦ Soumak, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Incorporating trims, page 19
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Weaving in warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 7⅞ x 30in (20 x 76cm) including tassels
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 7⅞in (20cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 56 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 57) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 4 rows.
4 Cut 84 lengths of yarn A, each measuring 35½in (90cm). Divide them into 28 bundles of 3 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 28 equally spaced rya knots (see page 18) across the row.
5 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 4 rows.
6 Cut 28 strips of lace, each measuring 1¼in (3cm) wide and 24⅜in (62cm) long. Fold each strip in half and work 28 equally spaced rya knots across the row.
7 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 24 rows.
8 With a length of beaded trim (yarn B), work 1 row of tabby weaving, easing and adjusting the trim to ensure that the beaded elements hang down on the front of the work (see page 19). With scissors, trim away the beaded details on the excess trim on either side.
9 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 8 rows.
MAKE IT YOURS
A wide range of different styles of beaded trimmings are available—try your local notions store or search online for something with hanging elements to add extra glitz to your make.
MAKE IT EASY
Trimming away beaded elements from the excess trim at either side of the weaving makes it easy to weave the ends of the trimming ribbon into the back of the work when the piece is finished.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can make a vibrant statement piece by substituting hot colors for the neutrals. Working this hanging in deeper shades of pink would give a very different feel.
10 With a length of yarn C smoothed flat (see page 16), work 4 rows of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps (see page 14).
11 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
12 With yarn D, work a row of double soumak (see page 17) from right to left, working each soumak knot over 9 warp threads.
13 With yarn C, work a row of double soumak from left to right, working each soumak knot over 9 warp threads.
14 With a length of yarn D smoothed flat, work 4 rows of multiple warp tabby weaving, working over 2 warps and under 2 warps.
15 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 8 rows.
16 With a length of beaded trim (yarn B), work 1 row of tabby weaving, easing and adjusting the trim to ensure that the beaded elements hang down on the front of the work. With scissors, trim away the beaded details on the excess trim on either side.
17 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 4 rows.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
18 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
19 Weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
20 Cut the warps leaving them as long as possible. Working with pairs of the bottom warps, tie an overhand knot (see page 21), sliding the knot up to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all bottom warps have been knotted. Trim the warps to equal lengths to create neat tassels.
21 Working with pairs of the top warps, tie an overhand knot, sliding the knot down to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all top warps have been knotted. Position the dowel above the weaving and overhand knot the pairs of warps over the dowel (see page 21). Trim the ends short. Make a hanging loop from a short length of warping cotton.
22 Trim the tassels of the yarn A rya knots to make a neat point at the center. Trim the lace rya tassels to create a straight edge.
USING THE YARNS
Avoid pulling the lengths of roving too tightly when drawing them through the warps, as this will prevent you from achieving the striking voluminous elements.
BRIGHTEN UP A ROOM WITH AN AZTEC-INSPIRED WALL HANGING.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 34½yd (31.5m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in worsted weight (Aran): this project uses approximately ¾oz (20g) of cream (yarn A), 51¼in (130cm) of pink (yarn B), ¾oz (20g) of aqua (yarn C), ¾oz (20g) of coral (yarn D), ¾oz (20g) of yellow (yarn E)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaving bobbins
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 11in (28cm) long
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 8 ¼ x 11 in (21 x 28cm)
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 8¼in (21cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 52 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 61) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 2 rows.
4 With yarn B, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
5 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
6 With yarn C, work in tabby over the center 16 warps for 2 rows. Then begin decreasing (see page 15) by 1 warp on each side on every alternate row until only the center 2 warps have been worked for 2 rows. Take the weft over the visible warp thread in the last row, then through to the back to complete the triangle.
7 With yarn A, fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the triangle. Work in tabby weaving but to keep the edges of the colored sections sharp, do not interlace the woven triangle and the background where the two sections meet. Continue until the tabby is level with the top of the triangle. Repeat to fill in the background on the left-hand side of the triangle.
8 With yarn D, work over the central 44 warps in tabby for 2 rows. Then begin decreasing by 1 warp on each side on every alternate row until 13 rows have been worked.
9 With yarn E, make the central motif by working 3 rows of tabby over the central 16 warps. Then begin decreasing by 1 warp on each side on every alternate row until, only the center 2 warps have been worked for 2 rows.
MAKE IT YOURS
This Aztec panel can either be used as a wall hanging by attaching to a dowel or it can be stitched to the front of a pillow for colorful soft furnishings.
TENSION MATTERS
Try to maintain an even tension when working the motif elements; if the warps are drawn too tight you can end up with gaps around the colors and a misshapen finished piece.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Striking geometric motifs like this are great for working with a limited color palette; try orange, cream, yellow, and black for a really stand-out design.
10 Begin increasing (see page 15) the central motif by working across one extra warp on each side on every alternate row until 3 rows of 16 warps have been worked.
11 Return to yarn D and begin working on the left-hand side of the loom. Following the shaping of the central motif and working over 8 warps on the first row only and 7 warps thereafter, begin decreasing 1 warp on every alternate row on the left-hand side and increasing by 1 warp on every alternate row on the right-hand side. Work 2 straight rows at the narrowest point at the center of the central motif.
12 Continue with yarn D, working over 7 warps and following the shaping of the upper part of the central motif on the left-hand side until the background is level with the top of the motif.
13 Repeat Steps 11–12 on the right-hand side of the motif.
14 With yarn D, work over the central 32 warps in tabby for 1 row. Then begin increasing by one warp on every alternate row until 13 rows have been worked and 44 warps are worked.
15 With yarn C and working over 4 warps on the left-hand side, follow the shaping in yarn D to the top of the motif. Repeat this band on the right-hand side of the motif.
16 With yarn A, fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the triangle with tabby weaving, but to keep the edges of the colored sections sharp, do not interlace the yarn C woven shaping and the background where the two sections meet. Repeat to fill in the background on the left-hand side of the weaving.
17 With yarn C, work in tabby over the center 2 warps for 2 rows. Then increase by 1 warp on every alternate row until 2 rows are worked over the center 16 warps to create a triangle motif.
18 With yarn A, fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the triangle. Work in tabby weaving but do not interlace the woven triangle and the background. Continue until the tabby is level with the top of the triangle. Repeat to fill in the background on the left-hand side.
19 Work a further 2 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
20 With yarn B, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
21 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
22 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
23 Weave in all weft ends (see page 21) neatly on the back of the work.
24 Cut the warps, leaving them as long as possible. Working in pairs, hold two bottom warp threads together and tie an overhand knot (see page 21), sliding the knot firmly to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all bottom warps have been knotted. Trim the warps to equal lengths to create neat tassels.
25 Position the dowel above the weaving and overhand knot the warps over the dowel (see page 21). Trim the ends short. Make a hanging loop from a 7¾in (20cm) length of yarn E.
USING THE YARNS
Using bobbins (rather than longer shuttles) for designs that include lots of colorwork motifs makes it easier to create the shapes.
THESE FRINGED COASTERS CAN BE CREATED WITH SMALL AMOUNTS OF YARN AND ARE THE PERFECT PROJECT FOR BEGINNER WEAVERS.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 16¾yd (15.3m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Silk yarns in light worsted weight (double knitting) in three complementary colors: this project uses approximately ¾oz (20g) of gold (yarn A), ¾oz (20g) of powder blue (yarn B), and ¾oz (20g) of rose pink (yarn C)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 3¾ x 4⅜in (9.5 x 11cm) excluding tassels
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 3¾in (9.5cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9): you can weave two coasters on these warps. This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 26 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 65) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 17 rows.
4 Change to yarn B and work 2 rows in tabby weaving. With yarn C, work in tabby across 21 warps on the right-hand side of the weaving. Continue in tabby, decreasing (see page 15) by 2 warp threads at the end of every alternate row to create an angled section of weaving. Continue until the weaving only covers 9 warp threads on the right-hand side of the loom.
5 Change to yarn B and fill in the background section on the left-hand side of the loom. Work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace (see page 15) the woven diagonal and the background where the two sections meet. When the background section is filled, work 2 rows in tabby weaving across all the warp threads.
MAKE IT YOURS
Weave faux warp threads into the two woven selvedges of the coasters to add extra fringing to the finished piece. If you are making a set of coasters, swap the positions of yarns B and C on some of them to provide contrast while keeping to one color palette.
Silk yarns are ultra soft and smooth, and can prove to be rather slippery when handling them. If you are having trouble keeping the yarn on a shuttle while weaving, opt to work with just the weaver’s needle for this project.
With all yarns that have a silk content it is especially important to weave the weft ends in fully on the back of the work (see page 20), to ensure that they don’t slide out and unravel with use.
6 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving across 16 warps on the left-hand side. Continue in tabby, decreasing by 2 warp threads at the end of every alternate row to create an angled section of weaving that slopes in the opposite direction to the first angled section. Continue until the weaving only covers 4 warp threads on the left-hand side of the loom.
7 Change to yarn B and fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the loom in the same way as for Step 5. When the background section is filled, work 2 rows in tabby weaving across all the warp threads.
8 Change to yarn A and work in tabby weaving for 18 rows.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
9 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
10 Using a tapestry needle, weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
11 Cut the warps leaving them as long as possible. Working in pairs, hold two warp threads together and tie an overhand knot (see page 21), sliding the knot firmly to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all pairs of warp threads top and bottom have been knotted. Trim the warps to equal lengths to create neat tassels.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
For a bolder finish to the coasters, work in a heavier weight cotton yarn in much brighter shades. Remember that the chunkier the yarn, the larger the finished piece will be, so you may want to scale down the size of your coasters if you are using really chunky yarns!
CREATE A CUSTOM CASE FOR YOUR PHONE WITH A SIMPLE WOVEN STRIP STITCHED TO CREATE A SLEEVE.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 17yd (15.5m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Cotton light worsted weight (double knitting) yarns in four complementary colors: this project uses approximately 1¾oz (50g) of cream (yarn A), ¾oz (20g) of mustard yellow (yarn B), ¾oz (20g) of turquoise (yarn C), and ¾oz (20g) of orange (yarn D)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Weaving in warp ends, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 3½ x 5⅛in (9 x 13cm) when sewn up
FRONT OF CASE
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 3½in (9cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 22 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 69) and using yarn A, work 3 rows in tabby weaving (see page 13). Change to yarn B and work 2 rows in tabby. Change back to yarn A and work a further 4 rows in tabby.
4 Change to yarn C to create the first triangle motif. Follow the chart and work in tabby weaving, leaving 2 warp threads unwoven on each side on the first row. Decrease 1 warp thread on each side (see page 15) on every row worked. Continue decreasing in this way until the weaving spans only the center 2 warps. Take the weft end over the visible warp thread in the last row then through to the back to complete the triangle.
5 Change to yarn A and fill in the background section on the right-hand side of the triangle. Work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace (see page 15) the woven triangle and the background where the two sections meet. Repeat to fill in the section on the left-hand side of the triangle. Then after the point of the triangle, work a further 4 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
6 Change to yarn C and create a second triangle in exactly the same way as the first one. Again, fill in the background on either side of the triangle using yarn A, then work a further 4 rows of tabby weaving after the point of the triangle.
7 Change to yarn D and create the central diamond motif. Begin working on the central 2 warp threads that align with the point of the second triangle and increase (see page 15) the tabby weaving by taking in an extra warp thread on each side on every row worked. Take the weft starting end over the visible warp thread in the first row then through to the back to make a neat point. Continue weaving until there are only 2 unwoven warp threads on either side.
8 Complete the diamond motif in exactly the same way as for a triangle: start with a base row that leaves 2 warps unwoven on each side, then decrease 1 warp thread on every row until the tabby weaving spans only the center 2 warps. Take the weft end over the visible warp thread in the last row then through to the back to complete the diamond.
9 Return to yarn A and fill in the section on the right-hand side of the diamond in the same way as for the triangles: work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace the woven diamond and the background where the two sections meet. Repeat to fill in the section on the left-hand side of the diamond. Then after the point of the diamond, work a further 4 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
MAKE IT YOURS
You can increase the size of this phone sleeve to accommodate different gadgets—simply ensure that the warp area is at least 1in (2.5cm) wider than the gadget and that the woven design is worked centrally.
10 Change to yarn C and create the final triangle motif. Begin working on the central 2 warp threads that align with the point of the diamond and increase the tabby weaving by taking in an extra warp thread on each side with every row worked. Continue until there are only 2 unwoven warp threads on either side.
11 Using yarn A, fill in the sections on either side of the triangle as in Step 5. Then work a further 20 rows of tabby weaving in yarn A across all the warp threads after the base of the triangle.
12 Change to yarn B and work 2 rows in tabby weaving. Change back to yarn A and work a further 4 rows in tabby. Change to yarn C and work 6 rows of tabby. The front of the case is complete, so at this point, check the length of the weaving against your phone.
13 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to press this straight against completed weaving; this will make the fold across the base of the sleeve.
BACK OF CASE
14 Throughout this section, work in tabby weaving across all the warp threads. With yarn C, work 6 rows. Change back to yarn A and work 4 rows. Change to yarn B and work 2 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the stripes on the front and back should align.
15 With yarn A, work 19 rows of tabby weaving. Change to yarn C and work 3 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the middle row of the stripe just woven in yarn C should align with the base of the last triangle on the front.
16 Change back to yarn A and work 19 rows of tabby weaving. Change to yarn D and work 3 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the middle of the stripe just woven in yarn D should align with the middle of the diamond on the front.
17 With yarn A, work 18 rows of tabby weaving. Change to yarn C and work 3 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the middle row of the stripe just woven in yarn C should align with the base of the second triangle on the front.
18 With yarn A, work 10 rows of tabby weaving. Change to yarn C and work 3 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the middle row of the stripe just woven in yarn C should align with the base of the first triangle on the front.
19 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 3 rows. Change to yarn B and work 2 rows in tabby weaving. Change back to yarn A and work in tabby weaving for a further 3 rows. When the weaving is folded along the central twisted header, the stripes at the start of the front and the end of the back should align.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
20 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
21 Weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
22 Cut the warps leaving them as long as possible. Holding each pair of warp threads in turn, pass one over the other to create a half knot (see page 21), and continue until all the pairs of warp threads top and bottom have been half-knotted. With a tapestry needle and working with each warp end in turn, weave them neatly and securely into the back of the work and trim away any excess (see page 21).
23 Fold the case in half along the central header strip, making sure the top two edges align. With yarn A and a tapestry needle, join the side seams with neat oversewing to make the case.
CREATIVE COLOR
For a more subtle take on this motif, work with a neutral background (yarn A) and two shades of the same color (for example, blue and turquoise), replacing the third color (yarn B) with either yarn C or D, as you prefer.
TENSION MATTERS
To ensure that the sleeve is easy to sew up, the side edges need to be parallel; so be careful to keep the tension even as you weave to prevent the sides from being drawn in.
MAKE A STATEMENT WITH THIS QUICK AND EASY, COLORFUL, TEXTURED WALL HANGING.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 17½yd (16m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Colored roving in three toning shades and worsted weight (Aran) yarn: this project uses approximately 1½oz (40g) of cream (yarn A), 1½oz (40g) of pink (yarn B), 1½oz (40g) of red (yarn C), and 43yd (39m) of cream worsted weight (Aran) yarn (yarn D)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜ in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 13¾in (35cm) long
✦ Approximately 21⅝in (55cm) of red cotton yarn for hanging loop
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Working with roving, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Weaving in warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 12¼ x 21¼in wide (31 x 54cm) long including tassels
MAKE IT YOURS
If you want to add some contrast to the texture, try working a few rows of tabby with the roving held flat (see page 16) for a smooth, neat finish.
Create your own design with shades of your favorite colors; a mid-tone and a light tone of one color, with a natural cream to complete the ombré shading.
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 11¾in (30cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9), but skip a pin/groove between each warp to allow more space for the roving. This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 26 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Cut 65 lengths of yarn D, each measuring 23¾in (60cm). Divide them into 13 bundles of 5 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work a series of equally spaced rya knots (see page 18) above the twisted header row.
4 Divide the yarn A roving into four roughly equal pieces along its length. Following the chart (see pages 11 and 70) and working in tabby weaving (see page 13), weave the first length, giving the roving a slight twist when it comes to the front to create texture. Add in each new strip—leaving a tail at the back—and continue for 10–12 rows, or until the band is a depth you like. Gently ease down each row of tabby with your fingers—it isn’t necessary to beat the rows with a comb for this style of weaving.
5 Divide the yarn B roving into four roughly equal pieces along the length. Work in tabby weaving, twisting the roving on the front, as for Step 4, until the band of yarn B weaving is the same depth as the band of yarn A.
6 Divide the yarn C roving into four roughly equal pieces along the length. Work in tabby weaving, twisting the roving on the front, as for Step 4, until the band of yarn C weaving is the same depth as the band of yarn A.
7 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
8 Using a tapestry needle or your fingers (whichever you find easier), weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
9 Cut the warps, leaving them as long as possible. Holding each pair of bottom warp threads in turn, pass one over the other to create a half knot (see page 21), and continue until all the pairs of bottom warp threads have been half-knotted. With a tapestry needle and working with each warp end in turn, weave them neatly and securely into the back of the work and trim away any excess (see page 21).
10 Half knot the top warps in the same way as the bottom ones. Position the dowel above the weaving and overhand knot the warps over the dowel (see page 21). Trim the ends short. Make a hanging loop from a doubled length of red cotton yarn.
11 Trim the ends of the rya knots neatly to make 10in (25cm) tassels.
USING THE YARNS
If you find weaving in the ends of roving to be tricky, a small spritz of spray fabric adhesive on the back of the work helps to hold them securely in place.
MAKE IT EASY
Use a length of scrap yarn to tie up the ends of the rya knot tassels to keep them out of the way while you work on the rest of the wall hanging.
SIMPLE SHAPES AND BRIGHT, BOLD YARNS ON A CREAM BACKGROUND GIVE THIS WEAVING AN EYE-CATCHING FINISH.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 37yd (33.8m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of worsted weight (Aran) yarns in four complementary colors: this project uses approximately 1¾oz (50g) of cream (yarn A), ¾oz (20g) of aqua (yarn B), ¾oz (20g) of yellow (yarn C), ¾oz (20g) of purple (yarn D), and ¾oz (20g) of orange (yarn E)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ ⅜ in (1cm) dowel for hanging, measuring 12¾in (32cm) long
✦ Masking tape
✦ Copper acrylic paint and artist’s paintbrush
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Soumak, page 16
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 8⅝ x 15¾in (22 x 40cm) including tassels
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 8⅝in (22cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 58 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see page 11 and opposite) and starting in the bottom left-hand corner, use yarn B to make the first triangle. Work in tabby weaving (see page 13) over 22 warp threads, and decrease 1 warp thread on each side (see page 15) on each row worked. Continue decreasing in this way until the weaving spans only the center 2 warps. Take the weft end over the visible warp thread in the last row then through to the back to complete the triangle. Repeat the process to create an identical triangle on the right-hand side, starting in the bottom right-hand corner.
4 With yarn C, work a line of double soumak weaving (see page 17) down one side of each triangle, from the point to the base, then a second line of double soumak down the other side, working each soumak knot over 2 warp threads.
5 Change to yarn A and fill in the background sections on either side of and between the triangles. Work in tabby weaving and on every row interlace (see page 15) the woven triangles and the background where the two sections meet, working under the line of soumak. Then, after the point of the triangle, work a further 6 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
6 Change to yarn D and working over the central 10 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Change to yarn A and fill in the background section on the right-hand and left-hand sides of the loom. Work 16 rows in tabby weaving, and keep the edges of the colors sharp by not interlacing the woven block and the background where the two sections meet.
7 Change to yarn D and working over the central 30 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Using yarn A, fill in the background on either side as in Step 6.
8 Change to yarn D and working over the central 50 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Using yarn A, fill in the background on either side as in Step 6, then work a further 4 rows in tabby weaving.
9 Change to yarn E and work 3 rows in tabby weaving. Then work the chart again, but in reverse, omitting the rows in yarn E and starting with row 70 and 4 rows in tabby weaving using yarn A.
MAKE IT EASY
This design is a mirror image through the center. Once the center line of orange tabby has been worked, you might find it easier to rotate the loom and then weave the second part of the design.
MAKE IT YOURS
You can add a row of rya knots to the base of the work in a selection of bright colors for a thicker, bolder fringe.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Make a fresh-looking banner with yarns in cool blues, plus a splash of bright poppy red.
10 Change to yarn D and working over the central 50 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Using yarn A, fill in the background on either side as in Step 6.
11 Change to yarn D and working over the central 30 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Using yarn A, fill in the background on either side as in Step 6.
12 Change to yarn D and working over the central 10 warps only, work in tabby weaving for 16 rows. Using yarn A, fill in the background on either side as in Step 6, then work a further 6 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
13 Change to yarn B and work the left-hand triangle, starting with the central of 2 warps and increasing (see page 15) 1 warp on each side on each row worked until the triangle is created. Repeat the process to create an identical triangle on the right-hand side.
14 With yarn C, work a line of double soumak weaving (see page 17) up one side of each triangle, from the point to the base, then a second line of double soumak up the other side, working each soumak knot over 2 warp threads.
15 Change to yarn A and fill in the background sections on either side of and between the triangles as in Step 5.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
16 Cut a length of warping cotton three times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
17 Using a tapestry needle, weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
Try to maintain an even tension throughout the weaving to prevent the sides from drawing inward in the middle of the piece.
18 Cut the warps, leaving them as long as possible. Working in pairs, hold two bottom warp threads together and tie an overhand knot (see page 21), sliding the knot firmly to the twisted header to secure it. Continue until all bottom warps have been knotted. Trim the warps to equal lengths to create neat tassels.
19 Use masking tape to mask off ¾in (2cm) at each end of the dowel and paint the ends with copper acrylic paint. Leave to dry.
20 Holding each pair of top warp threads in turn, pass one over the other to create a half knot (see page 21). Position the dowel above the weaving and overhand knot the warps securely over the dowel (see page 21). Trim the ends short. Make a hanging loop from a short length of warping cotton, wrapping each end around the dowel several times before knotting it securely.
ADD A QUICK COLORFUL POP TO YOUR INTERIORS WITH THIS MINI WOVEN WALL HANGING.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Weaving loom
✦ Approximately 18½yd (17m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in chunky, worsted weight (Aran), and light worsted weight (double knitting): this project uses approximately ¾oz (20g) of white worsted weight (Aran) (yarn A), ¾oz (20g) of mustard yellow worsted weight (Aran) (yarn B), ¾oz (20g) of jade light worsted weight (double knitting) (yarn C), ¾oz (20g) of brown light worsted weight (double knitting) (yarn D), and ¾oz (20g) of white chunky yarn (yarn E)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ Natural twig for hanging, measuring 6¼in (16cm) long
✦ Masking tape
✦ Copper acrylic paint and artist’s paintbrush
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Shaping in weaving, page 15
✦ Soumak, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
✦ Weaving in warp ends, page 21
✦ Adding a hanging stick, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 4¾ x 9⅞in (12 x 25cm)
1 Prepare the loom by warping an area 4¾in (12cm) wide and 21¼in (54cm) long (see page 9). This project uses light-medium gauge warping cotton (see page 7) and a warping area of 28 threads.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and parallel to the base section of the loom.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 81) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 3 rows.
4 With yarn B, work in tabby weaving for 10 rows, then begin decreasing (see page 15) by working on the left-hand side of the loom only and decreasing by 1 warp at the center on every alternate row until only 3 warps are worked on the left-hand side.
5 With yarn B, work in tabby weaving on the right-hand side of the loom to mirror the decreasing on the left-hand side until only 3 warps are worked on the right-hand side.
6 Cut 35 lengths of yarn A, each measuring 9⅞in (25cm). Divide them into 7 bundles of 5 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 7 rya knots (see page 18) around the edges of the V shape in the weaving, positioning them as shown on the chart.
7 Cut a length of yarn C 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row that sits straight across the warps, just above the topmost rya knots.
8 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 30 rows.
9 With yarn E, work a row of double soumak weaving (see page 17) from left to right, working each soumak knot over 4 warp threads.
MAKE IT EASY
Adding a twisted header in light worsted (DK) yarn is a neat way to secure the warps at the top of the open triangle section.
MAKE IT YOURS
Adding copper paint to the ends of the hanging twig gives it a more glitzy finish. Alternatively, you could paint the entire twig or just leave it natural.
10 With yarn D, work in tabby weaving for 13 rows.
11 With yarn B, work in tabby for 2 rows, then begin decreasing by 1 warp on each side on every alternate row until only the center 2 warps have been worked for 2 rows. Take the weft end over the visible warp thread in the last row then through to the back to complete the triangle.
12 With yarn E, fill in with tabby weaving the background section on the right-hand side of the triangle. As this yarn is a different weight to yarn B, it won’t require as many rows to fill the background as it did to weave the triangle. Repeat to fill in the section on the left-hand side of the triangle. Then after the point of the triangle, work a further 8 rows of tabby in yarn A across all the warp threads.
13 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 12 rows. Decrease by 2 warps on each side and work a further 2 rows.
14 Cut 8 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 4¾in (12cm). Divide them into 2 bundles of 4 strands each. Fold each bundle in half and work 1 rya knot in the gap in the tabby weaving on each side of the loom.
15 With yarn C, work in tabby weaving for 12 rows.
16 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 2 rows.
FINISHING AND MAKING UP
17 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
18 Weave in all weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
19 Use masking tape to mask off ⅝in (1.5cm) at each end of the twig and paint the ends with copper acrylic paint. Leave to dry, then add a second coat of paint if needed.
20 Cut the warps leaving them as long as possible. Working with pairs of the top warps, overhand knot (see page 21) them together at the back of the driftwood (see page 21). Make a hanging loop by knotting together the ends of the 2 outermost warps on each side.
21 Working in pairs, hold 2 lower warp threads together and pass one over the other to create a half knot (see page 21), and continue until all the pairs of warp threads top and bottom have been half-knotted. With a tapestry needle and working with each warp end in turn, weave them neatly and securely into the back of the work and trim away any excess (see page 21).
FINISHING TIP
Use the bamboo comb to smooth out the tassels of the rya knots before cutting them carefully to get a neat and precise finish.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Maximize the earthy tones by adding in more shades of rich brown yarns.
A SIMPLE WOODEN EMBROIDERY HOOP MAKES AN UNUSUAL LOOM FOR WEAVING AND DOUBLES AS A FANTASTIC DISPLAY FRAME. DESPITE THE MINIATURE SIZE OF THE WEAVING, THE IMPACT IS AMPED UP BY DRAMATICALLY LONG RYA KNOTS.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT
✦ Wooden embroidery hoop measuring 8¼in (21cm) in diameter
✦ Approximately 4yd (3.7m) of cotton warp thread
✦ Sharp scissors
✦ (Bamboo) comb (a fork can be used)
✦ Selection of yarns in worsted weight (Aran) and 8-ply: this project uses approximately ¾oz (20g) of jade green 8-ply (yarn A), ¾oz (20g) of mustard yellow 8-ply (yarn B), and 1¾oz (50g) of cream worsted weight (Aran) (yarn C)
✦ Weaving shuttles
✦ Weaver’s needle
✦ Five similarly sized knitting needles, pencils, or artist’s paintbrushes
✦ Tapestry needle
TECHNIQUES USED
✦ Warping a loom, page 9
✦ Twisted header, page 10
✦ Using the charts, page 11
✦ Tabby weaving, page 13
✦ Soumak, page 16
✦ Rya knots, page 18
✦ Looped weaving, page 18
✦ Weaving in weft ends, page 20
✦ Knotting warp ends, page 21
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
✦ 8¼ x 15⅜in (21 x 39cm) to base of rya tassel
1 Separate the rings of the embroidery hoop and set the outer ring aside. Secure an end of the warping thread to the inner hoop. Wrap the thread around the center of the hoop to create 12 warps across the center (6 in the front and 6 on the back), trying to maintain an even tension over each warp. Knot the other warp thread end to the hoop to secure it. Loosen the screw on the outer hoop and carefully put it over the inner hoop. Ease the warps so they are evenly spaced across the center of the hoop, then tighten the screw to hold the rings firmly together.
2 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row (see page 10). Use the comb to position the header so it is straight and 2in (5cm) from the inner edge of the hoop.
3 Following the chart (see pages 11 and 84) and using yarn A, work in tabby weaving (see page 13) for 10 rows.
4 Cut 4 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 15¾in (40cm). Holding them all together and flat, weave them through the warps. Draw the yarn through to an equal length on each side of the warps. Slip the end of a pencil, knitting needle, or artist’s paintbrush under all four of the strands where they run over a warp, and ease them all up to create a loop (see page 18). Leave the pencil in place. Repeat to create 5 loops across the row—one over each warp apart from the warp on the furthest right, leaving each pencil in place until all the loops have been created to ensure that they are all the same size. Slide the pencils out from the work to reveal five loops. Wrap the yarn tails on the right-hand side around the back of the warps and overhand knot (see page 21) them to the tails on the left-hand side (which will be the base of the weaving when it is hanging up) and trim the tassels to be level with the edge of the hoop immediately below them.
5 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 6 rows.
6 Change to yarn C and working with 3 strands held together as one, work a row of double soumak weaving (see page 17) across the width of the warps, working each soumak knot over 4 warp threads. Overhand knot the strands together on the left-hand side of the warps and trim them to align with the yarn B tassel.
7 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 6 rows.
8 Repeat Step 4 to create another band of looped weaving in yarn B.
9 With yarn A, work in tabby weaving for 10 rows.
MAKE IT YOURS
Work on larger or smaller embroidery hoops to change both the size and appearance of the design.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
For a more summery design, select pink and coral yarns to go with the neutral cream.
10 Cut a length of warping cotton 3 times the length of the weaving area and work a twisted header row. Use the comb to beat this into position at the end of the weaving to secure the last row.
11 Weave in all yarn A weft ends (see page 20) neatly on the back of the work.
12 Cut 8 lengths of yarn B, each measuring 27½in (70cm) and divide them into 2 bundles of 4 strands each. Turn the hoop so that the weaving runs horizontally across it, with the existing tassels hanging downward. Working with one bundle on one side of the weaving, fold the bundle in half and make a rya knot (see page 18) on the 2 upper warps. Repeat the process with the other bundle on the other side of the weaving. Neatly trim the tassels to 13⅜in (34cm).
13 Cut 16 lengths of yarn A, each measuring 29½in (75cm) and divide them into 4 bundles of 4 strands each. Working in the same way as in Step 12, make a rya knot either side of each yarn B knot, but on the 4th and 5th warps threads. Trim the tassels to align with the yarn B tassels.
14 Cut 96 lengths of yarn A, each measuring 29½in (75cm) and divide them into 12 bundles of 8 strands each. Working around the lower portion of the embroidery hoop, fold a bundle in half and tie a rya knot around the hoop. Work 11 more knots. Position them evenly around the bottom part of the hoop and trim the tassels to 15¼in (39cm).
MAKE IT EASY
As there are no set positions for the warp threads to rest, as on a conventional loom, the twisted header is a great way to evenly space the warp threads.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Use a dab of glue to secure the ends of the warps to the inner ring of the embroidery hoop to keep them secure and out of sight.