Munnar
%04865 / POP 38,500 / ELEV 1524M
The rolling hills around Munnar, South India’s largest tea-growing region, are carpeted in emerald-green tea plantations, and the low Western Ghats scenery here is magnificent – you’re often up above the clouds watching veils of mist clinging to mountaintops. Munnar itself is a scruffy, traffic-clogged administration hub, not unlike a North Indian hill station, but wander just a few kilometres out and you’ll be engulfed in a thousand shades of green.
Once known as the High Range of Travancore, Munnar flourished as a tea-producing area from 1880 onwards. Today it’s the commercial centre of some of the world’s highest tea-growing estates, most operated by corporate giant Tata, with some overseen by local cooperative Kannan Devan Hills Plantation Company (KDHP); Harrisons Malayalam also owns a share.
Munnar and the surrounding Idukki district were badly hit by the 2018 floods; tourism services were expected to be mostly back to normal by late 2019.
Munnar
8Transport
1Sights & Activities
Most travellers visit Munnar to explore the lush, tea-filled hillocks that surround it. Day trips to Top Station, Eravikulam National Park and Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary are especially popular, as are treks through the hills.
CSI Christ ChurchCHURCH
(off AM Rd/NH85; 
h9am-5pm)
Constructed in neo-Gothic style in 1911, with granite imported from the UK, Munnar’s oldest church contains a series of plaques commemorating prominent foreign tea planters laid to rest here.
Tea MuseumMUSEUM
(adult/child ₹125/40, camera ₹20; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Around 1.5km northwest of town, this KDHP-owned museum is a demo model of a working tea factory, but still shows the basic process, along with a collection of relics from the British era including photographs and a 1905 tea-roller (skip the disappointingly bizarre factory demonstration). The walk to/from Munnar follows a busy road with views across tea plantations; autorickshaws charge ₹25 from the bazaar.
oNimi’s Lip Smacking ClassesCOOKING
(%9447330773; http://nimisrecipes.com; AM Rd/NH85; class per person ₹3000; h3pm Mon-Fri, 2pm Sat & Sun)
Award-winning food writer and cook Nimi Sunilkumar has earned a solid reputation for her Keralan cuisine, publishing her own cookbooks, website and blog, and offering popular hands-on classes in her home (next to Munnar’s DTPC). You’ll learn traditional Keralan recipes and take home a copy of her book Lip Smacking Dishes of Kerala.
Trekking
The best way to experience Munnar’s beautiful hills is on a guided trek. Options range from half-day ‘soft treks’ around tea plantations (₹500 to ₹1000) to more arduous full-day mountain treks (from ₹1000), which open up stupendous views when the mist clears. Trekking guides are easily organised through your accommodation or the DTPC Tourist Office. Munnar Trekking (%04865-230940, 9447825447; www.munnartrekking.com; trek per person ₹650-1000) is a reputable operation run by Green View Inn, while Green Valley Vista offers excellent trekking, too.
At the time of writing, the DTPC is also arranging overnight trekking trips (per person ₹3000) with camping in the Top Station area.
Which areas are open for treks depends on current Forest Department regulations, which change roughly yearly. There are walks that you can do independently, but bear in mind that tea plantations are private property and trekking around them without a licensed guide is trespassing.
TTours
Taxis, jeeps and guesthouses charge ₹1200 to ₹1500 for a spin around the main local sights. The DTPC runs several fairly rushed but inexpensive full-day tours to points around Munnar. The Sandal Valley Tour (%04865-231516; www.dtpcidukki.com; per person ₹400; htour 9am-5pm) visits Eravikulam National Park, several viewpoints, waterfalls, tea plantations and a sandalwood forest; the Village Tour (%04865-231516; www.dtpcidukki.com; per person ₹400; h9am-5pm) covers a spice farm, Ponmudi Dam, and a few waterfalls and viewpoints. Note that the Tea Valley Tour includes elephant riding, which Lonely Planet does not recommend due to the serious animal-welfare concerns involved.
4Sleeping
Munnar town has good budget options just south of the centre near the bus station. That said, the views and peace are out in the hills and valleys, where homestays and upmarket resorts make scenic bases; it can be quite a hike into town from some of these.
4Munnar Town
Green View InnGUESTHOUSE$
(%04865-230940, 9447825447; www.greenviewmunnar.com; r ₹600-900; 
W)
Handily located near the main bus station, this popular guesthouse has fresh, clean budget rooms (the best on the upper floor), a friendly welcome, and reliable tours and treks. Young owner Deepak also runs Munnar Trekking and cosy nearby cafe Taste the Brews, as well as comfy, good-value Greenwoods Cottage (%9447825447, 04865-230189; www.greenviewmunnar.com; Anachal; s/d ₹750/900; W), 12km southwest of town.
JJ CottageGUESTHOUSE$
(%04865-230104, 9447228599; jjcottagemnr@gmail.com; r ₹500-1000; W)
The charming family at this long-standing pink-walled spot 1.5km south of central Munnar (tucked into a lane just far enough from the main bus station) offers a varied and uncomplicated set of clean, bright and colourful great-value rooms with hot water. The top-floor deluxe has a separate sitting room and views across town.
Zina CottageGUESTHOUSE$
(%09496822163, 04865-230349; r ₹800-1200; W)
If you want to be immersed in lush tea plantations but still close to town, Zina is the budget choice. While it looks slightly run-down, this fading, rose-pink, 50-year-old bungalow offers five clean, simple rooms, in a scenic location with rippling views and good hikes on its doorstep. It’s 1km south of the main bus station (call for directions).
4Munnar Hills
oRosegardensHOMESTAY$$
(%04864-278243, 9447378524; www.munnarhomestays.com; NH85, Karadipara; r incl breakfast ₹5000; W) 
S
An award-winning, totally charming family homestay, peacefully located 12km southwest of Munnar, overlooking owner Tomy’s exquisite nursery and organic spice and fruit plantation (complete with biogas plant!). The five spacious rooms are immaculate, with tea/coffee trays, solar-heated water and greenery-fringed balconies. Fuelled by own-grown ingredients, the home-cooked meals are a treat, from coconut-stuffed pancakes to delicately spiced Keralan dinners (₹300).
It’s on the main road to Kochi, linked by regular buses, and also does free garden tours for guests and cooking classes (₹2000).
oGreen Valley VistaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%04865-263261, 940004311; www.greenvalleyvista.com; Chithirapuram; r incl breakfast ₹2250-3850; W) S
Green Valley’s views are superb, its rooms smartly up to date, and its welcome warm. Rooms sprawl across three floors, all facing the valley, and have TVs, modern bathrooms, natural light, and private balconies with dreamy panoramas. There’s an outdoor terrace, plus yoga mats, a restaurant and water refills, and staff organise trekking. It’s 11km south of Munnar, with good bus connections.
ShadeHOMESTAY$$
(%9539103538, 9447825984; www.theshade.in; Chithirapuram; r incl breakfast ₹3000)
Folded into a verdant valley, 13km south of Munnar, Santhosh and Maya’s tranquil family home is encircled by palms, betel-nut trees and their own cardamom and fruit plantations. The four unfussy rooms are kept comfy and spotless; go for the corner room gazing out across the valley. Trekking and home-cooked dinners (₹200) are available.
Anna HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%8129980088, 8156980088; www.annahomestay.com; Chithirapuram; r incl breakfast with/without AC ₹4500/2500; 
aW)
Near Anachal village, 12km southwest of Munnar, Anna is more of a cosy guesthouse than a homestay, with 11 very tidy modern rooms, spacious rooftop common areas, Keralan cooking and yoga classes on offer. Best are the colourful corner pads with balconies, such as room A, and there are two large air-con rooms.
Windermere EstateRESORT$$$
(%0484-2425237; www.windermere-retreats.com; Bison Valley Rd, Pothamedu; r incl breakfast ₹13,440-27,520; aW
s) S
An elegant boutique-meets-country retreat, 4km southeast of Munnar, where 18 supremely spacious garden- and valley-view rooms are sprinkled around serene grounds flanking an infinity pool with tea-garden panoramas. Top choice are the two suite-like ‘Plantation Villas’, surrounded by cardamom and coffee plantations and spectacular vistas. There’s a cosy library above the country-inspired restaurant, which delivers Indian cuisine rooted in homegrown produce.
Tall TreesRESORT$$$
(%04865-230641; www.ttr.in; Bison Valley Rd; r incl breakfast ₹11,500-17,000; W)
The 26 smart, lemon-scented, contemporary-meets-classic-Keralan cottages at this shaded hillside resort are hidden away under a luxuriant shola (virgin forest) canopy, 6km southeast from Munnar, and come with balconies, kettle kits and filtered water. Activities on offer include tea tastings, campfires, ayurvedic massages and guided walks, while meals are served alfresco or in the glass-ceilinged restaurant.
5Eating
Early-morning food stalls in the bazaar serve breakfast snacks and cheap meals and there are some good affordable restaurants in Munnar town, but the region’s best food is served at its homestays and resorts.
Rapsy RestaurantINDIAN$
(%04865-230456; Bazaar; dishes ₹50-200; h7am-10pm)
This spotless glass-fronted sanctuary in the bazaar is packed at lunchtime, with locals lining up for Rapsy’s famous paratha (Indian-style flaky bread) or biryani. It’s equally popular with travellers and makes a decent stab at North Indian curries and fancy international dishes like Spanish omelette and Israeli shakshuka (eggs with tomatoes and spices).
Taste the BrewsCAFE$
(dishes ₹20-90; hhours vary)
An easy-going traveller-oriented cafe, opposite the bus station, for Continental-style breakfasts (omelettes, fruit salads), fresh juices, carrot cake and tastings of local tea and coffee.
Sree Mahaveer BhojanalayaNORTH INDIAN$$
(%9633906581; Hotel SN Annex, Government Guesthouse Rd; thalis ₹90-320; h7am-10pm)
Friendly and well-dressed, this all-veg hit at the northern end of Munnar keeps busy with families for its great range of thalis: pick from Rajasthani, Gujarati, Punjabi and more, plus a dazzling array of vegetarian rices and curries.
Ali Baba & 41 DishesMULTICUISINE$$
(%8078801666, 04865-233303; www.alibaba41dishes.com; Mulakkada Jn, Lakshmi Rd; mains ₹130-300; h11.30am-10.30pm; W)
A sizzling Indian-international menu of red-hot noodles, spiced seafood platters, paneer/chicken tikka, northern gravies and southern thalis draws locals and travellers to this halal restaurant with Munnar-themed murals on the walls, located near the bus station at the southern end of town.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PARAMBIKULAM TIGER RESERVE
Possibly the most protected environment in South India (nestled behind three dams in a valley at 300m to 1440m, surrounded by Kerala and Tamil Nadu sanctuaries), Parambikulam (%8300014873, 9442201691, 9442201690; https://parambikulam.org; Indian/foreigner ₹30/300; h7am-6pm, last entry 3pm) constitutes 644 sq km of Kipling-storybook scenery and wildlife-spotting goodness, designated a tiger reserve in 2009. Far less touristed than Kerala’s Periyar Tiger Reserve, it’s home to elephants, leopards, sloths and around 26 tigers, though its gaur, sambar, chital and crocodiles, plus some of the largest and oldest teak trees in Asia, are more easily sighted.
Bookings for access to the park’s buffer zones and Forest Department accommodation are theoretically done online up to six months ahead (though there were technical issues with this at the time of writing). Otherwise, contact the reserve office (%9442201691, 9442201690; https://parambikulam.org; Anappady; h7am-6pm), which may also have spots and accommodation available on the day. Activities include minibus safaris (₹200) and treks (Indian ₹1200 to ₹3600, foreigner ₹2400 to ₹6100).
Accommodation is in tented niches (Indian ₹6100 to ₹7300, foreigner ₹9700 to ₹12,100), treetop huts (Indian ₹3000 to ₹6100, foreigner ₹3600 to ₹9700) and an air-conditioned colonial-era bungalow (Indian ₹5000 to ₹6100, foreigner ₹7300 to ₹8500); rates are per room and cover meals plus trekking, rafting and wildlife-spotting minibus safaris.
Access to the reserve is via Pollachi (44km south of Coimbatore and 46km southeast of Palakkad) in Tamil Nadu, also the access point for Anamalai Tiger Reserve. There are three daily buses from Pollachi to Parambikulam (₹85, three hours) via Anamalai at 6am, 9.30am or 10am and 3.15pm. Taxis from Pollachi cost around ₹1700. The reserve sometimes closes due to fire risk in March and April, and is best avoided during the monsoon (June to August).
3Entertainment
Punarjani Traditional VillageLIVE PERFORMANCE
(%9895999701, 04865-263888; http://punarjanimunnar.com; 2nd Mile, NH85, Pallivasal; ₹200-300; hKathakali 5pm, kalarippayat 6pm)
WORTH A TRIP
THATTEKKAD BIRD SANCTUARY
A serene 25-sq-km park in the foothills of the Western Ghats, cut through by two rivers and two streams, Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary (%04862-232271, 8547603194; www.thattekadbirdsanctuary.org; adult/child Indian ₹45/40, foreigner ₹190/40, camera/video ₹40/240; h7am-5pm) shelters around 300 fluttering species – unusual in that they are mostly forest rather than water birds – including Malabar grey hornbills, Jerdon’s nightjars, grey drongos, darters, kingfishers, flycatchers, warblers, sunbirds, tiny 4g flowerpeckers and rarer species like the Sri Lankan frogmouth.
River boating (₹150 per person) and guided birdwatching trips (rates vary) are organised by the efficient reception office at the sanctuary’s entrance; accommodation places also offer birdwatching. Local homestays make excellent bases; we recommend two-room Bird Song Homestay (%8943894087, 9746248274; http://thattekadhomestay.com; Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary; r incl meals with/without AC ₹3500/3000; aW), run by welcoming naturalist Vinod, and blue-walled Jungle Bird Homestay (%9947506188, 0485-2588143; http://junglebirdhomestay.blogspot.com; Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary; r incl meals per person ₹1500, with AC d ₹3300-4000; aW), both just inside the sanctuary. Windermere Riverhouse (%0484-2425237; www.windermere-retreats.com; Neriamangalam Rd, Inchathotty; r incl breakfast & dinner ₹19,520; aWs) is a graceful, cream-coloured riverside bungalow in colonial-era tea-planter style, a 20km drive southeast of the sanctuary.
Thattekkad is on the Ernakulam–Munnar road. Buses from Ernakulam (₹40, two hours) and Munnar (₹60, two to three hours) run to Kothamangalam, from where you can catch an autorickshaw (₹150) or a bus (₹12, 25 minutes) for the final 12km northeast to Thattekkad.
8Information
DTPC Tourist Office (%04865-231516; www.dtpcidukki.com; AM Rd/NH85; h8.30am-6.30pm)
Forest Information Centre (%8547382391; h10am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
Roads around Munnar are winding and often in poor condition following monsoon rains, so travel times may vary.
The main KSRTC bus station (AM Rd/NH85) is 1.5km south of the town centre, though all government buses also stop at one of several stands in Munnar town (from where private buses depart).
There are at least 18 daily buses to Ernakulam (Kochi; ₹115, five hours, 5.40am to 9.45pm); the 3pm is an air-con service. Government buses also run to Trivandrum (₹270 to ₹600, eight to nine hours, seven daily 4.50am to 9pm), Alleppey (₹150, five hours, four daily 6.20am to 4.30pm), Kumily (₹100, four to five hours, 6.30am) and Bengaluru (Bangalore; ₹800, 16 hours, 3.30pm) via Wayanad (₹500, 10 hours) and Mysuru (Mysore; ₹680, 13½ hours). Private buses go to Kumily (₹115, four to five hours) at 12.15pm and Madurai (₹110, five hours) at 12.30pm, 2.20pm and 5.30pm. There are separate stands for buses to Top Station (₹60, one hour, 8am, 9am and 9.30am) and Coimbatore (₹140, six hours, 3.30pm) via Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary (₹60, one hour).
Taxis cost ₹2800 to Ernakulam, ₹3800 to Alleppey and ₹2400 to Kumily.
8Getting Around
Autorickshaws ply the hills around Munnar with bone-shuddering efficiency; short hops cost ₹20 to ₹50.
Gokulam Bike Hire (%9447237165; per day ₹400-500; h9am-6pm) rents out motorbikes and scooters; call ahead.
Around Munnar
Top Station
High above Kerala’s border with Tamil Nadu, Top Station (elevation 1880m) is popular for its spectacular views over the Western Ghats. From Munnar, three daily buses (₹60, 8am, 9am and 9.30am) make the 32km climb northeast past tea estates in around an hour, or take a return taxi or jeep (₹1200). You may see wild elephants on the way up.
Eravikulam National Park
Around 11km north of Munnar, the 97 sq km of grasslands and shola of Eravikulam National Park (%04865-231587; www.eravikulam.org; Indian/foreigner ₹120/400, camera/video ₹40/400; h8am-4pm Apr-Jan) conceal the world’s largest population (700 to 800) of endangered, but almost tame, Nilgiri tahr. Safari buses take you into the Rajamala tourist zone where the likelihood of sightings is high. The park also hosts Anamudi, South India’s highest peak (2695m), though it was closed to climbers at the time of research, as were all Eravikulam treks (these may reopen). From Munnar, taxis cost ₹800 return.
Central Kerala
Kochi (Cochin)
%0484 / POP 602,050
Set on a magnificent estuary, serene Kochi has been drawing traders, explorers and travellers to its shores for over 600 years. Nowhere else in India could you find such an intriguing mix: giant Chinese fishing nets, a 450-year-old synagogue, ancient mosques, Portuguese- and Dutch-era houses and the crumbling remains of the British Raj. The result is an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal and Holland and an English village grafted onto the tropical Malabar Coast. It’s a delightful place to explore, laze in arty cafes and relax at some of India’s finest homestays and heritage hotels. It’s also an important centre for Keralan arts (traditional and contemporary) and a standout place to see Kathakali and kalarippayat.
Mainland Ernakulam is Kochi’s hectic transport and cosmopolitan hub, while the historical towns of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry, though well touristed, remain wonderfully atmospheric.
1Sights
1Fort Cochin
The historical European part of the city, Fort Cochin has a couple of small, sandy beaches, which are only really good for people-watching in the evening and gazing out at the incoming tankers. A popular promenade meanders from west-coast Mahatma Gandhi Beach to the Chinese fishing nets and fish market.
Keep an eye out along the shore for the scant remains of Fort Immanuel, the 16th-century Portuguese fort from which the area takes its name.
Chinese Fishing NetsLANDMARK
The unofficial emblems of the backwaters, and perhaps the most photographed, are the half-dozen giant cantilevered Chinese fishing nets on Fort Cochin’s northeastern shore, known locally as cheena vala. A legacy of traders from the AD 1400 court of Kublai Khan, these spiderlike, 10m-tall contraptions rest on teak or bamboo poles and require five or six people to operate their counterweights at high tide.
St Francis ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Church Rd; h8.30am-5pm)
Constructed in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars, this is believed to be India’s oldest European-built church. The faded-yellow edifice that stands here today was built in the mid-16th century to replace the original wooden chapel, though it was later altered by both the Dutch and British. Explorer Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried in this spot for 14 years before his remains were taken to Lisbon – you can still visit his tombstone in the church.
David HallGALLERY
(map; www.davidhall.in; Church Rd; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun, hours vary)
Opposite the parade ground, this beautiful restored bungalow is all that remains of three 17th-century Dutch-era houses built using materials from demolished Portuguese churches. It’s now an arts-and-culture centre, showcasing up-and-coming artists with performances and changing exhibitions.
Dutch CemeteryCEMETERY
(map Google map; Beach Rd)
Consecrated in 1724, this cemetery near Kochi’s beach contains the worn and dilapidated graves of Dutch traders and soldiers. Its gates are normally locked but a caretaker might let you in, or ask at nearby St Francis Church.
Santa Cruz BasilicaBASILICA
(map Google map; cnr Bastion St & KB Jacob Rd; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun)
Built on the site of an early-16th-century Portuguese church (demolished during the British Raj), Fort Cochin’s imposing neoclassical Catholic basilica dates to 1902. In the striking pastel-coloured interior you’ll find artefacts from the different historical eras in Kochi.
Kashi Art GalleryGALLERY
(map Google map; %0484-2215769; www.kashiartgallery.com; Burgher St; h8.30am-10pm)
The pioneer of Fort Cochin’s art revival, Kashi displays changing exhibitions of local artists in a creatively restored Dutch heritage house, attached to one of Kerala’s most fabulous cafes.
Indo-Portuguese MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0484-2215400; Bishop Kureethara Rd; adult/child ₹40/20; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun)
The heritage of one of India’s earliest Catholic communities – including vestments, silver processional crosses, altarpieces from the Kochi diocese and 19th-century sketches of Santa Cruz Basilica – is on show at this thoughtfully presented museum hidden in the tranquil garden of the Bishop’s House. The basement contains remnants of the 16th-century Portuguese-built Fort Immanuel.
WORTH A TRIP
CHINNAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
This 90-sq-km sanctuary (%04865-231587; www.chinnar.org; entry with 3hr trek Indian/foreigner ₹250/600; h8am-3pm), 50km northeast of Munnar, protects deer, leopards, elephants, gaur, langurs and endangered Nilgiri tahr and grizzled giant squirrels. Entry is by three-hour trek with tribal guides (two tribal groups live here). Tree-house (₹4000), mud-hut (₹5000) and log-house (₹4000) accommodation within the sanctuary are available; rates are per couple, including breakfast and dinner. For details contact Munnar’s Forest Information Centre or DTPC.
Coimbatore- and Udumalpet-bound buses from Munnar stop at Chinnar (₹60, 1½ hours); return taxis cost ₹2000.
1Mattancherry & Jew Town
About 2.5km southeast of Fort Cochin, Mattancherry is the old bazaar district and centre of the spice trade. These days it’s packed with spice shops and pricey Kashmiri-run emporiums that autorickshaw drivers will fall over backwards to take you to for a healthy commission – any offer of a cheap tour of the district will inevitably lead to a few shops. In the midst of this, Jew Town is a bustling port area with a fine synagogue. Scores of small firms huddle together in dilapidated old buildings and the air is filled with the biting aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves, though the lanes around Mattancherry Palace and the synagogue are packed with antique and tourist-curio shops rather than spices. Just south is Kochi’s old Muslim quarter.
oMattancherry PalaceMUSEUM
(map Google map; Dutch Palace; Palace Rd, Mattancherry; adult/child ₹5/free; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu)
Mattancherry Palace was a generous gift presented to the Raja of Kochi, Veera Kerala Varma (1537–65), as a gesture of goodwill by the Portuguese in 1555. The Dutch renovated it in 1663, hence the alternative name, the Dutch Palace. The building combines European and Keralan styles, but the star attractions are the royal bedchamber’s astonishingly preserved Hindu murals from the 17th to 19th centuries, which depict scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranic legends in intricate, colourful detail.
oPardesi SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(map Google map; Synagogue Lane, Mattancherry; ₹5; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm Sun-Thu, 10am-1pm Fri, closed Sat & Jewish holidays)
Originally built in 1568, Mattancherry’s synagogue was partially destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662, and rebuilt two years later when the Dutch took Kochi. It features an ornate brass bema, elegant wooden benches, and elaborate hand-painted, willow-pattern floor tiles from Canton, China, added in 1762 during major remodelling under Ezekial Rahabi. It’s magnificently illuminated by Belgian chandeliers and coloured-glass lamps. The graceful clock tower dates from 1760, with inscriptions in Malayalam, Hebrew, Roman and Arabic script.
The majority of Kochi’s Pardesi Jews have emigrated, but the synagogue remains excellently preserved.
Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY
(map Google map; AB Salem Rd, Mattancherry)
Just southwest of Mattancherry’s synagogue, the undisturbed Jewish Cemetery contains ancient tombstones marked with Hebrew script.
1Ernakulam & Around
Kerala Folklore MuseumMUSEUM
(%0484-2665452; www.keralafolkloremuseum.org; Folklore Junction, Thevara; Indian/foreigner ₹100/200, camera ₹100; h9am-6pm)
Created in Kerala style from ancient temples and beautiful old houses collected by its owner, an antique dealer, the family-run folklore museum houses a priceless collection of over 5000 artefacts and covers three architectural styles: Malabar on the ground floor; Kochi/Portuguese on the 1st; and Travancore on the 2nd (top). The fine top-floor theatre has an 18th-century wood-carved ceiling depicting Hindu gods, as well as colourful Ramayana and Mahabharata murals. It’s 4.5km south of Ernakulam Junction.
2Activities
Popular South Indian cooking classes are held at Neema’s Kitchen (%9539300010; https://neemaskitchen.co.in; Bungalow Heritage Homestay, Vypeen Island; classes per person ₹2000-2500; h10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm) on Vypeen Island (just north of the jetty) and in Fort Cochin at Mrs Leelu Roy’s Cook & Eat (map Google map; %0484-2215377, 9846055377; www.leeluhomestay.com; 1/629 Quiros St, Fort Cochin; classes per person ₹1000; h11am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Sat) and Green Woods Bethlehem.
AyurdaraAYURVEDA, YOGA
(%9447721041; https://ayurdara.com; Murikkumpadam, Vypeen Island; per day ₹1650; h9am-5.30pm)
Run by third-generation ayurvedic practitioner Dr Subhash, this delightful, appointment-only waterside treatment centre specialises in personalised therapies of one to three weeks and also offers yoga (₹200). It’s on Vypeen Island, 3km north of the Fort Cochin ferry jetty.
Loving Earth YogaYOGA
(map; www.lovingearthyogacafe.com; 1/839 Quiros St, Fort Cochin; yoga ₹500; hcafe 8am-8pm Tue-Sun)
Drop-in daily vinyasa, ashtanga, hatha and/or yin yoga classes on a breezy rooftop attached to an all-vegan cafe serving mezze platters, Buddha bowls and creative salads (₹200 to ₹300); see the website for current schedules.
CCourses
The Kerala Kathakali Centre has short- and long-term courses in classical Kathakali dance, music and make-up as well as kalarippayat (from ₹650 per hour).
For a crash course in the martial art of kalarippayat, head to famed training centre Ens Kalari, 6.5km southeast of Ernakulam, which offers intensive courses from one week to one month.
TTours
Ernakulam’s knowledgeable Tourist Desk runs the popular full-day Great Water Valley Tour (₹1250, departs 8am, returns 6pm), by shikara and canoe, through backwater canals, villages and lagoons and vast Vembanad Lake; rates include lunch and some sections are by bus.
Art of Bicycle TripsCYCLING, WALKING
(%8129945707; https://artofbicycletrips.com; KB Jacob Rd; 3hr/half-day tours ₹2250/4200; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Guided bicycle tours on quality mountain bikes with this India-wide operator include the three-hour Vasco Safari morning tour of the historic Fort area and a half-day ride around the backwaters. There are also evening walking food tours of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry (₹950).
Kerala Bike ToursTOURS
(%9446492382, 9388476817; www.keralabiketours.com; 42/2252B St Benedict Road North, Kacheripady, Ernakulam)
Organises multilingual Enfield Bullet tours around Kerala and the Western Ghats (six-day full-board trip per person including accommodation ₹109,000) and hires out touring-quality Enfields (from ₹12,000 per week) for serious riders with unlimited mileage, full insurance and free recovery/maintenance options.
zFestivals & Events
Ernakulathappan UtsavamRELIGIOUS
(Shiva Temple, Ernakulam; hJan/Feb)
Eight days of festivities culminating in fireworks, music and a parade of 15 splendidly decorated elephants (which won’t please everyone).
Kochi–Muziris BiennaleART
(%0484-2215287; http://kochimuzirisbiennale.org; ₹100, free Mon; hDec-Mar)
Into its fourth edition (2018), this major contemporary biennial arts festival is one of the largest of its kind in Asia. Over 90 Indian and international artists bring their creativity to workshops, talks and exhibitions across Kochi, with heritage properties as venues.
Cochin CarnivalCARNIVAL
(www.cochincarnival.org; h21 Dec)
Fort Cochin’s biggest bash, a 10-day festival culminating on New Year’s Eve. Street parades, colourful costumes, embellished elephants (which won’t appeal to all), music, folk dancing and lots of fun.
4Sleeping
Fort Cochin is the homestay capital of India – around 200! It’s also home to some of Kerala’s finest heritage accommodation, as well as contemporary-style hostels.
Ernakulam is cheaper and more convenient for onward travel, but the ambience and accommodation choices are less inspiring than in Fort Cochin.
Book ahead during the November-to-March high season, especially December and January.
4Fort Cochin
Happy CamperHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %9742725668; www.facebook.com/happycamperkochi; KB Jacob Rd; dm ₹500-600; aW) S
Billing itself as a boutique hostel, Happy Camper is a relaxed place with three en suite, air-con dorms (for four or eight; lockers provided), a small kitchen, free water refills, vibrant wall art, an excellent little cafe and rooftop area, and friendly staff. Good location just south of the main tourist hub.
ZostelHOSTEL$
(map; %011-39589007; www.zostel.com; 1/751A Njaliparambu Junction; dm ₹450, r ₹1270-1500; aW)
Zipped away down a small lane, Kochi’s popular and sociable Zostel ticks all the right backpacker boxes. There are personal plugs, lights and lockers in the updated air-con dorms, which sleep four (mixed) or six (women only), along with three polished private doubles, and communal spaces adorned with lively cushions and murals.
MaritimeHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0484-2214785; https://thehostelcrowd.com; 2/227 Calvathy Rd; dm ₹500, r ₹1200-1600; aW)
Behind a red-and-white facade, this branch of the Goan Hostel Crowd chain is just west of the Customs jetty. The nautical theme is a characterful touch; the en suite air-con dorms for four to six people have individual lockers and plugs; double rooms (with fan or air-con) are clean, compact and well kept; and there’s a small kitchen plus a laundry and a library.
oReds ResidencyHOMESTAY$$
(%9847030342, 9388643747; www.redsresidency.in; 11/372 A KJ Herschel Rd; r incl breakfast with AC from ₹1200, without AC ₹900-1200, AC rooftop cottage ₹1800; aW) S
Hotel-quality rooms come with solar-powered showers and a true family welcome from knowledgable hosts Philip and Maryann at this delightful homestay. The five rooms – including a four-bed family room – are modern and immaculate, and there’s a self-contained rooftop ‘penthouse’ cottage with a kitchen. Days begin with fabulous, lovingly prepared breakfasts. It’s in a peaceful spot 1km south of central Fort Cochin.
oGreen Woods BethlehemHOMESTAY$$
(%0484-2216069, 9846014924; www.greenwoodsbethlehem.com; Kurisingal House; r incl breakfast with AC ₹1700-2000, without AC ₹1000-1500; aW)
With a smile that brightens weary travellers, welcoming owner Sheeba looks ready to sign your adoption papers the minute you walk through the door. Down a quiet laneway, amid walled gardens thick with palms, this is one of Kochi’s most serene homestays. The 10 humble but cosy rooms are scattered up rambling staircases; breakfast is served on the leafy rooftop.
Cooking classes/demonstrations (₹1000) happen daily. It’s 1km south of central Fort Cochin.
Raintree LodgeHERITAGE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %9747721091; www.fortcochin.com; 1/618 Peter Celli St; r incl breakfast ₹3300; aW)
The five intimate, graceful and good-value rooms at this cheerful converted 18th-century house flirt with boutique-hotel status. Each mixes contemporary style with heritage carved-wood furniture; the two front upstairs rooms have gorgeous vine-covered Romeo-and-Juliet balconies. Breakfast is served at the wonderful Kashi Art Cafe, run by the same team.
Beena HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%9447574579, 0484-2215458; www.homestaykochi.com; 11/359B Kadathanad; r incl breakfast & dinner with/without AC ₹3000/2500; aW) S
Beena has been feeding and sheltering travellers for years in the family homestay, just off Ponnoonjal Rd 1km south of central Fort Cochin, and maintains high standards with six spotless rooms, solar power, and home-cooked meals taken in the dining room.
Delight Home StayHOMESTAY$$
(map Google map; %98461121421, 0484-2217658; www.delightfulhomestay.com; Post Office Rd; r incl breakfast ₹3000-4000; aW)
One of Fort Cochin’s original homestays, this charming whitewashed house is adorned with elaborate woodwork and dangling terracotta plant pots, while the six custom-designed rooms are spacious and polished with heritage character. Good home-cooked food is served and there’s a colourful garden.
Travellers InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(map; %9446332662, 0484-2215551; www.travelsinmind.com; 1/326B Princess St; r ₹1500-2500)
In the heart of Fort Cochin, with a handy travel desk, this welcoming, efficiently operated Indian-Italian-run guesthouse has six unpretentious modern rooms, decorated with a single custom-made monochrome drawing of Kochi by a local artist. The two upper-floor front rooms come with small balconies.
oOld Harbour HotelHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2218006; www.oldharbourhotel.com; 1/328 Tower Rd; r ₹15,000-27,000; as)
Overlooking a lush garden with lily ponds and a pool, the stylish Old Harbour is housed in a 300-year-old Dutch/Portuguese heritage building. The elegant mix of period and modern design lends it a more intimate feel than some of the more grandiose competition. The four garden-view rooms with balcony are divine; others have freestanding tubs or plant-filled, open-air bathrooms.
Brunton BoatyardLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2846500; www.cghearth.com; River Rd; r ₹28,160-56,320; aWs) S
On the site of a Victorian-era shipyard, this grand CGH creation faithfully reproduces 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century Dutch, British and Portuguese architecture for an updated heritage look. Most rooms gaze out over the harbour, and have bathtubs and balconies with refreshing sea breezes. There are three excellent restaurants, complimentary yoga and bicycles, and a waterfront pool shaded by tangles of bougainvillea.
Malabar HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2216666; www.malabarhouse.com; 1/269 Parade Ground Rd; r incl breakfast €220-360; as)
What may just be one of the most romantic boutique hotels in Kerala, Malabar flaunts its chic blend of contemporary design and original 18th-century architecture like it’s not even trying. Rooms are strung around a small pool; while suites are huge and lavishly appointed, standard rooms feel more snug. The award-winning Malabar Junction restaurant and DiVine wine bar are top-notch.
Forte KochiHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2704800; www.fortekochi.in; Princess St; r incl breakfast ₹9600-22,400; aWs)
A chicly remodelled mango-yellow 1800s home with its origins dating back to the Portuguese-rule era, Forte Kochi is a welcome 2018 luxe arrival. Tiled floors and design-led bathrooms breathe fresh contemporary style into the 27 heritage-inspired rooms, which orbit an enticing pool, and there’s an enormous suite with a freestanding claw-foot bath. Excellent location, good restaurant, charming staff.
Fort House HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2217103, 9539375431; www.hotelforthouse.com; 2/6A Calvathy Rd; r incl breakfast ₹7500; aW)
Around 200m west of Fort Cochin’s Customs jetty, this family-owned hideaway is one of the old core’s few truly waterfront hotels, though the 16 smart, contemporary-Keralan rooms and well-regarded ayurvedic centre are tucked back in a lush garden, with the excellent restaurant taking prime lakeside position.
4Mattancherry & Jew Town
Ginger House Museum HotelHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2213400; http://museumhotel.in; Ginger House Bldg, Mattancherry; r incl breakfast US$300-750; aWs)
Above an astonishing private antiques collection, each of these eight exquisitely and individually themed design-meets-heritage rooms – with glossy contemporary bathrooms, personal coffee trays and beautiful period furnishings – feels like its own sumptuous little world. Expect a feast of carved teakwood, mirrored ceilings and baroque chandeliers. The rooftop has a small lake-view infinity pool, and there’s an excellent waterfront restaurant.
4Ernakulam
John’s ResidencyHOTEL$
(map Google map; %9995070834, 8281321395; TD Rd; r with AC ₹1600, s/d without AC ₹650/850; a
iW)
A genuine backpacker place, efficiently run John’s is your best budget bet for an overnight stop in Ernakulam, especially if John himself is in residence. It’s 600m east of the boat jetty. Rooms are small (deluxes are bigger) but clean and decorated with flashes of colour and, for some, balconies, providing a welcoming feel for this price bracket.
Boat Jetty BungalowHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %9746013198, 0484-2373211; www.boatjettybungalow.com; Cannon Shed Rd; s/d with AC ₹1350/1900, without AC ₹560/850; a)
An 1891 former jetty-manager’s house and ancestral home has been thoughtfully refurbished into budget-to-midrange accommodation, its palette of greys and compact, impeccably kept rooms with bottled water offset by original wooden ceilings. It’s 300m east of Ernakulam’s jetty for Fort Cochin.
Grand HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0484-2382061, 9895721014; https://grandhotelkerala.com; MG Rd; s ₹3780-4100, d ₹4740-6260, all incl breakfast; aW)
This 1960s hotel, with its polished original art deco fittings, exudes the sort of retro glamour that contemporary hotels would love to re-create. The smart, spacious rooms have gleaming parquet floors, tea/coffee trays and large modern bathrooms with hairdryers. Also here are good global-cuisine restaurant Grand Pavilion (map Google map; %0484-2382061, 9895721014; mains ₹245-480; h7.30-10.30am, noon-3.30pm & 7-10pm) and Ernakulam’s most sophisticated bar, Couchyn (map Google map; h11am-11pm).
4Around Kochi
Bungalow Heritage HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%9846302347; https://thebungalow.co.in; Vypeen Island; r incl breakfast with AC ₹5100-6600, without AC ₹4500-6000; aW)
Just 300m north from Vypeen Island’s ferry dock, this beautiful 1930 Keralan heritage house is a delight, with two large connecting rooms featuring quaint furnishings and grand wooden flooring on its Dutch-inspired upper floor. Owner Neema runs excellent cooking classes on the Portuguese-styled lower level. Minimum two-night stay.
Kallanchery RetreatHOMESTAY$$
(%9847446683, 0484-2240564; www.kallancheryretreat.com; Panakkal House, Kumbalanghi; r & cottage incl breakfast ₹2000-3000; aW)
Escape the Kochi crowds at this peaceful waterside homestay and expansive garden in the village of Kumbalanghi, 13km south of Fort Cochin. Tidy rooms are either in the family home or in a lakefront cottage. Chinese fishing nets are on your doorstep, and boat trips, village tours, and home-cooked meals (₹350) courtesy of chef-owner Rockey are available.
Fort Cochin
1Sights
4Sleeping
3Entertainment
5Eating & Drinking
5Fort Cochin
Some of Kochi’s best cooking is served in Fort Cochin’s homestays; also here are some of Kerala’s finest cafes. Several top-end hotels have excellent restaurants, too. Only a few places serve alcohol with meals.
Behind the Chinese fishing nets are a handful of fishmongers (map Google map; River Rd; hrestaurants 8am-9pm), from whom you can buy the day’s catch then have it cooked at one of the simple restaurants on nearby Tower Rd (for an additional charge); a fillet of kingfish costs around ₹400.
oKashi Art CafeCAFE$$
(map Google map; Burgher St; dishes ₹150-350; h8.30am-10pm; W) S
Fort Cochin’s original (and best) art cafe, this fashionable, light-filled space has a Zen vibe, a creeping vertical garden and stylish wood tables spreading out into a courtyard dotted with contemporary artwork. The coffee is strong, organic ingredients are used wherever possible, and the luscious breakfasts and lunches are excellent (French toast, home-baked cakes, creative salads).
oDal RotiINDIAN$$
(map Google map; %9746459244; 1/293 Lily St; mains ₹170-350; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Wed-Mon)
Always-busy Dal Roti is one of Fort Cochin’s most-loved restaurants. The knowledgeable owner Ramesh will hold your hand through his expansive North Indian menu and help you dive into a delicious world of vegetarian, eggetarian and nonveg options. From kati rolls (filled paratha fried with a coating of egg) and stuffed paratha to seven thali types, you won’t go hungry. At the time of research there were rumours of the pending closure of Dal Roti. Check before heading there.
Fusion BaySEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; %9995105110; KB Jacob Rd; mains ₹150-450; h12.30-11pm)
This unassuming little family restaurant in central Fort Cochin is renowned locally for its imaginative Kerala Syrian fish delicacies cooked in the pollichathu style (masala spiced and grilled in a banana leaf), and assorted seafood dishes such as spicy fish pappas, coconut-fried prawns and fish in mango curry. There are a few veg choices too.
Loafers CornerCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0484-2215351; www.facebook.com/loaferscornercafe; 1/351 Princess St; dishes ₹170-200; h9am-10pm; W)
A stylishly restored 200-year-old Dutch-Portuguese-style building, Loafers is all reclaimed wood, minimalist design, cosy window booths and delicate murals. It’s a good, relaxed spot for a coffee, a fresh juice, breakfast or a light meal, with a bistro-style menu of sandwiches, wraps, pancakes, pastas and homemade cakes.
Drawing RoomINTERNATIONAL, INDIAN$$
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/thedrawingroomkochi; Church Rd; mains ₹150-450; h11am-11pm)
Set in the grand Cochin Club, this stylish cafe-restaurant enjoys a wonderful garden location with large windows facing out to the water, and is jazzed up by freehand murals that weave together classic Kerala scenes with musical elements. The lightly creative menu, based on family recipes, features salads, pastas, soups and fish or prawn curries. There’s regular live music in season.
Fort House RestaurantSEAFOOD, INDIAN$$
(map Google map; %9539375431, 0484-2217103; www.hotelforthouse.com; 2/6A Calvathy Rd; mains ₹170-900; h7.30am-10.30pm)
The waterside restaurant at the family-owned Fort House Hotel is a prime choice for a leisurely lunch, fringed by hot-pink bougainvillea and plants overflowing from earthy-red pots. The signatures are the seafood dishes (including Keralan-style fish curry), though the flavoursome veg dishes pack a punch too. Dine at tables overlooking the water or in the calm covered garden.
Qissa CafeCAFE$$
(map; %0484-2215769; www.facebook.com/QissaCafe; No 18 Hotel, Rampath Rd; dishes ₹180-300; h7.30am-10pm; W)
Usually packed with fashionable Kochiites, Qissa channels a cosmopolitan scene with its mismatched pastel-painted chairs, outdoor garden and buzzy atmosphere. Come for the homemade cakes, brunch-type snacks (avocado toast has arrived!), stuffed omelettes, heartier creations like lemon-pesto pasta, and chilled fresh juices and lemonades presented in jam jars. Good coffee and tea too.
TeapotCAFE$$
(map Google map; Peter Celli St; dishes ₹180-300; h8.30am-9pm)
Behind an ivy-covered facade, this atmospheric cafe is perfect for ‘high tea’, with an impressive choice of brews, sandwiches and cakes turned out in airy, heritage-style rooms amid canary yellow walls and wood-beamed ceilings. Witty tea-themed accents include antique teapots, tea chests for tables and a gnarled, tea-tree-based glass table. Snacks include omelettes, grilled sandwiches and a veggie stew with appam.
OceanosSEAFOOD$$
(map; %9633713653; Elphinstone St; mains ₹180-600; h12.30-10pm)
Gloriously fresh seafood is the thing at this smart, locally popular restaurant with turquoise table runners and touches of greenery. Fish is served in spicy pollichathu style, in mango curry or perhaps grilled with a coconut sauce. There are also Goan-Portuguese seafood classics like peixe recheado (grilled spice-stuffed fish) and some South and North Indian veg and nonveg favourites.
Malabar GrillsINDIAN$$
(%9061800042; www.facebook.com/malabargrillskochi; Kokers Junction, Amaravathi Rd; mains ₹110-350; h9am-11pm; W)
Join feasting Indian families at this sprawling modern restaurant fronted by a barbecue just southeast of Fort Cochin’s tourist centre. Breakfasts (₹30 to ₹80) are classic South India: puttu, iddiyappam (a rice noodle dish), dosa, idli with sambar (soupy lentil dish with vegetables). Later, the focus turns to thalis (₹90 to ₹140), biryanis and, especially, grilled meats and seafood.
oMalabar JunctionINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2216666; www.malabarhouse.com; Parade Ground Rd; mains ₹450-800, tasting menus ₹2500; h7am-11pm)
Set in an open-sided pavilion or at candlelit poolside tables, this outstanding restaurant at Malabar House is (almost) Bollywood-star glam. The ambitious East-meets-West menu creatively fuses local and European flavours – the signature dish is the seafood platter (₹3200), or try an elegant ‘trilogy’ of Indian curries. An impressive choice of Indian wines (Sula, Fratelli, Grover Zampa) accompanies meals.
Upstairs, the DiVine wine bar (h11am-11pm) serves upmarket tapas-style snacks and wines by the glass.
Clubb18CLUB, BAR
(map; www.no18.co.in; No 18 Hotel, Rampath Rd; h11.30am-midnight)
Hands down Fort Cochin’s liveliest after-dark hang-out, this moodily lit muralled club-bar spills out onto a poolside terrace, serving cool Kingfishers (₹200), cocktails (₹500) and Indian wines (₹400 to ₹800) to a trendy local crowd. Busy from 9pm, with DJs Friday to Sunday.
5Mattancherry & Jew Town
Kayees Ramathula HotelINDIAN$
(map Google map; Kayees Junction, Mattancherry; biryani ₹130-170; hnoon-2pm)
This no-frills spot is legendary among Kochi locals for its lunchtime chicken, mutton and seafood biryanis – get here early or miss out. Don’t confuse it with the lime-green biryani place on the corner – Kayees is next door.
Mocha Art CafeCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0484-2224357; www.facebook.com/themochaartcafe; Synagogue Lane, Mattancherry; dishes ₹150-450; h9am-9pm)
This gorgeous, multiroom, 300-year-old spice warehouse, built in Dutch style, was once lived in by the rabbis of Mattancherry’s synagogue, which you can admire from a snug original window booth. Open-brick walls, vertical gardens and local art add a contemporary touch. Cooking here is a skilful blend of Keralan curries, omelettes and wholewheat sandwiches, and cakes from the on-site bakery.
Ginger HouseINDIAN$$$
(map Google map; %0484-2213400; http://museumhotel.in; Jew Town Rd, Mattancherry; mains ₹230-800; h8am-8pm May-Oct, to midnight Nov-Apr)
Hidden behind a massive antique-filled godown (warehouse) is this wonderful waterfront restaurant, where you can relax over fresh juices and punchy Indian dishes and snacks (including a deliciously creamy cashew-paneer curry). Walk through the priceless Heritage Arts showroom (check out the giant antique snake-boat canoe) to reach it.
5Ernakulam
Ernakulam’s mega shopping malls provide food-court dining, and there are some reliable South Indian restaurants. Leafy Panampilly Nagar Ave, in a residential area 1.5km south of Ernakulam Junction train station, is lined with modern restaurants and cafes.
Frys Village RestaurantKERALAN$
(map Google map; Chittoor Rd; mains ₹90-180; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm)
This brightly decorated and breezy place with an arched ceiling is a great family restaurant with authentic Keralan food, especially seafood like pollichathu or crab roast. Fish and veg thalis are available for lunch.
Cocoa TreeCAFE$$
(%0484-4119529; www.facebook.com/cocoatreecafe; MG Rd, Panampilly Nagar, Avenue Regent; dishes ₹270-500; h11am-11pm; W)
With trailing plants, gleaming fresh-cake displays and newspapers to flick through, this bright cafe makes a sophisticated, rustic-chic retreat from busy Ernakulam. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, omelettes and pastas fill the global-inspired menu, or just pop in for a coffee, a hot chocolate or a fresh juice. It’s 1.5km south of Ernakulam Junction.
ChilliesANDHRA$$
(map Google map; %0484-2354938; Layam Rd; mains ₹100-300; h11.30am-4pm & 7-11pm)
A dark, buzzing 1st-floor restaurant, serving Kochi’s best spicy Andhra cuisine on banana leaves, from biryanis to fish curry. Try a thali (₹170 to ₹190) for all-you-can-eat joy. Downstairs is a tandoori sister venture.
3Entertainment
There are several centres in Kochi where you can view Kathakali, the fast-paced traditional martial art of kalarippayat and performances of classical music and traditional bharatanatyam dance.
Kerala Kathakali CentreLIVE PERFORMANCE
(map Google map; %9895534939, 0484-2217552; www.kathakalicentre.com; KB Jacob Rd, Fort Cochin; shows ₹300-350; hshows from 4pm)
In an intimate, wood-lined theatre, this recommended long-running arts centre provides a useful introduction to Kathakali. It also hosts performances of kalarippayat (4pm), classical music (8pm to 9pm Sunday to Friday) and traditional dance (8pm Saturday), plus early-morning yoga (₹400) and meditation (₹250) sessions and a range of short- and long-term courses, including Kathakali (from ₹650 per hour).
Ens KalariLIVE PERFORMANCE
(%0484-2700810; www.enskalari.org.in; Nettoor; entry by donation)
To see real professionals practising kalarippayat, seek out this renowned 65-year-old training school 6.5km southeast of central Ernakulam. There are daily one-hour demonstrations (7.15pm; one day’s notice required) or you can watch training sessions from 5.30pm daily except Sunday. The centre also runs intensive courses from one week (₹5000) to one month (₹19,500).
7Shopping
AnokhiFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(map; %0484-2216275; www.anokhi.com; Lily St, Fort Cochin)
Fabulous hand-block printed dresses, kurtas, skirts, bags and shirts in floaty fabrics blend Indian and European design at Anokhi, a Jaipur brand famous for its traditional-meets-contemporary fashion. You’ll also find bedspreads, tablecloths and other home accessories in an alluring rainbow of colours.
NiraamayaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(map Google map; %0484-2217778; https://niraamaya.org; 1/605 Peter Celli St, Fort Cochin; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
A world of soothing pinks, greys and oranges, Niraamaya sells ‘ayurvedic’ clothing, accessories, homewares and yoga mats – all made of organic cotton, coloured with natural herb dyes, or infused with ayurvedic oils, based on the ancient concept of ayurvastra (healthy fabrics). There’s another branch (map; 6/217 AB Salem Rd; h10am-5.30pm) in Mattancherry.
FabindiaCLOTHING, HOMEWARES
(map Google map; %0484-2217077; www.fabindia.com; 1/281 Napier St, Fort Cochin; h9.30am-9pm) S
This renowned fair-trade Indian brand has fine Indian textiles, fabrics, clothes, homewares, ceramics and natural beauty products, created using traditional techniques by village craftspeople across the country. The style is modern Indian, with silks and cottons in lively prints and colours, and the line works to encourage rural employment.
Lulu MallMALL
(%0484-2727777; http://lulumall.in; NH66, Edappally; h9am-11pm; W)
India’s largest shopping mall, Lulu is an attraction in its own right with people coming from all over to shop, hang out in the food courts or cinema, or go ice skating or tenpin bowling. Sprawling over 7 hectares, this state-of-the-art air-con mall has more than 215 brand outlets from Calvin Klein to Fabindia. It’s 9km northeast of Ernakulam’s boat jetty.
Idiom BookshopBOOKS
(map Google map; Bastion St, Fort Cochin; h10am-6.30pm)
Originally just a pushcart selling books on Kochi’s beaches, Idiom has a huge range of quality new and used tomes, including India-focused literature. There’s another branch (map; Bazaar Rd; h10am-5pm) in Mattancherry.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Lakeshore Hospital (%emergency 9961630000; www.vpslakeshorehospital.com; NH Bypass, Marudu) Modern hospital 8km southeast of central Ernakulam.
Medical Trust (map; %0484-2358001; www.medicaltrusthospital.com; MG Rd, Ernakulam; h24hr)
MONEY
ATMs in Fort Cochin cluster around Kunnumpuram Junction.
Unimoni (UAE Exchange; map; %0484-4392416; www.unimoni.com; Chettupuzha Towers, PT Usha Rd, Ernakulam; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) has a foreign exchange.
TOURIST INFORMATION
DTPC Tourist Office (map; %0484-2350300; Ernakulam Jetty, Ernakulam; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Government of India Tourist Office (%0484-2669125; www.incredibleindia.org; Willingdon Island; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
KTDC Tourist Office (map; %0484-2353234; www.ktdc.com; Shanmugham Rd, Ernakulam; h8am-6.30pm) Just north of Ernakulam’s main jetty.
Tourist Desk (map; %9847044688, 0484-2371761; touristdesk1990@gmail.com; Ferry Jetty, Ernakulam; h8am-6pm) This private tour agency is extremely knowledgeable and helpful about Kochi and beyond, and runs a good backwaters tour. It also provides maps, ferry schedules and self-guided walking tours entitled Historical Places in Fort Cochin.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Cochin International Airport (%0484-2610115; http://cial.aero; Nedumbassery), 30km northeast of Ernakulam, is a popular hub, with international flights to/from the Gulf States, Sri Lanka, the Maldives, Malaysia, Bangkok and Singapore.
On domestic routes, Jet Airways, Air India, IndiGo, SpiceJet, Vistara and/or GoAir fly direct to Chennai, Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore), Hyderabad, Delhi, Goa and Trivandrum. Air India flies daily to Agatti in Lakshadweep.
BUS
All long-distance services operate from Ernakulam’s KSRTC bus stand (map; %0484-2372033; Ernakulam; hreservations 6am-10pm) or the massive Vyttila Mobility Hub (%0484-2306611; www.vyttilamobilityhub.com; Vyttila), a state-of-the-art transport terminal 4km east of Ernakulam Junction train station. Numerous private bus companies have superdeluxe, air-con, video and Volvo buses to long-distance destinations, such as Bengaluru (Bangalore), Chennai, Mangaluru (Mangalore), Trivandrum and Coimbatore; prices vary depending on the standard. Agents in Ernakulam and Fort Cochin sell tickets. Private buses use Vyttila as well as Kaloor bus stand (Kaloor), 3km north of Ernakulam Junction.
MAJOR BUSES FROM ERNAKULAM
Buses to the following destinations operate from the KSRTC Bus Stand and/or Vyttila Mobility Hub. In addition, private buses operate on long-haul routes.
| DESTINATION | FARE (₹) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alleppey | 60-110 | 1½ | every 10-30min |
| Bengaluru | 790-1270 | 12 | 11 daily |
| Calicut | 360 | 5 | hourly |
| Chennai* | 1533 | 16-18 | 4.30pm |
| Coimbatore | 185-200 | 5 | 14 daily |
| Kalpetta (for Wayanad) | 300 | 7 | 5 daily |
| Kannur | 300-385 | 8 | 5 daily |
| Kanyakumari* | 280 | 8 | 2.30pm |
| Kollam | 135-250 | 4 | every 10-20min |
| Kottayam | 70-135 | 2 | every 10min 3.45am-10pm |
| Kumily (for Periyar) | 220 | 5 | 15 daily |
| Madurai* | 450 | 10 | 8pm, 8.15pm, 8.30pm |
| Mangaluru* | 400 | 11 | 6.30pm, 8.35pm, 10.30pm |
| Munnar* | 125 | 4½ | 10 daily |
| Mysuru* | 740-850 | 10 | 6pm, 7pm, 8pm, 10.50pm |
| Puducherry* | 675 | 18 | 4pm |
| Thrissur | 70 | 2 | every 10-20min |
| Trivandrum | 185-380 | 5-7 | every 20-30min |
* Departs only from KSRTC bus stand
TRAIN
Ernakulam has two train stations, Ernakulam Junction and Ernakulam Town. There’s a reservations office (map; Ernakulam Junction, Ernakulam; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) for both at Ernakulam Junction, but it’s easier to book online or through a travel agent.
There are frequent local and express trains to Trivandrum (2nd class/sleeper/3AC ₹95/165/490, four to five hours), via Alleppey (₹50/140/495, 1½ hours) or Kottayam (₹50/140/495, one to two hours), and to Thrissur (2nd class/AC chair ₹60/260, 1½ hours). There are also 10 daily trains to Calicut (2nd class/sleeper/3AC ₹90/140/495, four to five hours) and Kannur (₹115/190/495, five to 6½ hours).
MAJOR LONG-DISTANCE TRAINS FROM ERNAKULAM
| DESTINATION | TRAIN NO & NAME | FARES (₹; SLEEPER/3AC/2AC) | DURATION (HR) | DEPARTURE (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bengaluru | 16525 Bangalore Exp (A) | 345/945/1355 | 11½ | 6.05pm |
| Chennai | 12624 Chennai Mail (A) | 395/1050/1490 | 12 | 7.30pm |
| Delhi | 12625 Kerala Exp (B) | 885/2300/3415 | 46 | 3.50pm |
| Goa (Madgaon) | 16346 Netravathi Exp (A) | 415/1135/1640 | 14½ | 2.05pm |
| Mumbai | 16346 Netravathi Exp (A) | 615/1655/2430 | 27 | 2.05pm |
Trains: (A) departs from Ernakulam Junction; (B) departs from Ernakulam Town
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bright-orange AC buses run between the airport and Fort Cochin (₹88, 1¾ hours, at least 16 daily) via Ernakulam’s MG Rd or the Vyttila Mobility Hub. There are 24-hour prepaid taxi stands at the domestic and international terminals: ₹880 to Ernakulam, ₹1250 to Fort Cochin. Uber and Ola taxis charge around ₹700 and ₹1000 respectively.
AUTORICKSHAW & TAXI
Autorickshaw trips shouldn’t cost more than ₹30 around Fort Cochin, ₹50 around Ernakulam or ₹80 from Fort Cochin to Mattancherry.
Prepaid autorickshaws from Vyttila cost ₹86 to Ernakulam Jetty, ₹110 to Ernakulam Junction and ₹214 to Fort Cochin; from prepaid autorickshaw stands at the KSRTC bus stand (map; KSRTC bus stand, Ernakulam; h6.30am-11pm) or Ernakulam Junction it’s ₹30 to the jetty and ₹180 to Fort Cochin. To get from Ernakulam to Fort Cochin after ferries (and buses) stop running you’ll need a taxi or an autorickshaw.
Uber (www.uber.com) and Ola Cabs (www.olacabs.com) drivers are a popular alternative to taxis (map; River Rd, Fort Cochin) for trips around Kochi; short hops cost around ₹60. In Ernakulam, there’s a prepaid taxi stand (map; Ernakulam Junction, Ernakulam; h24hr) at Ernakulam Junction.
BOAT
Ferries are the fastest and most enjoyable form of transport between Fort Cochin and the mainland. The main stop at Fort Cochin is Customs Jetty (map; Bazaar Rd, Fort Cochin); some ferries also use Fort Cochin’s Kamalakadavu Jetty (map; River Rd, Fort Cochin). Mattancherry Jetty (map; Bazaar Rd, Mattancherry), near the palace and synagogue, was closed indefinitely at research time, but may resume services to Willingdon Island. The jetty on the eastern side of Willingdon Island is Embarkation (map; Willingdon Island); the west one, opposite Mattancherry, is Terminus (Willingdon Island). One-way fares are ₹3 or ₹4.
Ferries run to Vypeen Island from Ernakulam Jetty (map; Park Ave, Ernakulam) and Fort Cochin (map; River Rd, Fort Cochin). Ferries to Bolgatty Island depart from High Court Jetty (map; Shanmugham Rd, Ernakulam).
Fort Cochin
Ferries go from Fort Cochin’s Customs Jetty to Ernakulam Jetty (20 minutes) every 10 to 25 minutes from 5.55am to 9.50pm. There’s also a new high-speed ferry from Kamalakadavu Jetty to Ernakulam (with/without air-con ₹20/10, 12 minutes, six daily). Ferries also hop between Customs and Willingdon Island 24 times a day.
Roll-on, roll-off car and passenger ferries go every 20 minutes from Fort Cochin to Vypeen Island between 6.40am and 9.30pm (five minutes).
Ernakulam
Ferries run from Ernakulam Jetty to Fort Cochin’s Customs Jetty (20 minutes) every 15 to 20 minutes from 4.40am to 9.10pm, some via Willingdon Island (10 minutes). Ernakulam Jetty has ferries to Vypeen Island (25 minutes) every 25 to 35 minutes from 6am to 9.30pm, also via Willingdon; return ferries run from 6.25am to 10pm.
BUS
Airport buses and local buses from Ernakulam use the central Fort Cochin bus stand (map; River Rd, Fort Cochin). There are no regular buses between Fort Cochin and Mattancherry Palace, but it’s an enjoyable 2km (30-minute) walk (or a quick cycle) through the busy warehouse area along Bazaar Rd.
BICYCLE & MOTORCYCLE
Bicycles (from ₹150) and scooters (₹400 per day) or Enfields (from ₹1300 per day) can be hired from agents in Fort Cochin.
METRO
Partly inaugurated in mid-2017, Kochi’s elevated metro (https://kochimetro.org) will eventually connect Kochi’s bus and train stations, additional suburbs and the airport, though at the time of writing wasn’t yet very useful to travellers.
Around Kochi
Cherai Beach
On Vypeen Island, 25km north of Fort Cochin, golden 3km-long Cherai Beach makes a fun day trip or getaway from Kochi, especially if you hire a scooter or a motorbike in Fort Cochin. The main beach entrance can get busy, but with kilometres of lazy backwaters just a few hundred metres from the seafront and a smattering of quiet fishing villages to explore, this unhurried area is becoming increasingly appealing for travellers.
4Sleeping & Eating
Les 3 ElephantsRESORT$$$
(%0484-2480005, 9946012040; www.3elephants.in; Convent St, Cherai Beach; cottages incl breakfast with AC ₹8020-13,770, without AC ₹5070-8850; aWs)
Hidden from the beach but with the backwaters on your doorstep, Les 3 Elephants is a soothing French-Indian-owned resort with boutique flair. The beautifully and uniquely designed cottages have private sit-outs and lovely backwater views across gardens to Chinese fishing nets. There’s yoga and meditation plus an ayurvedic spa (massage ₹1500), and the restaurant serves excellent home-cooked French-Indian fare (mains ₹200 to ₹500). Guests can use the pool at a neighbouring property, while nearby Mini Elephant rooms offer a more budget-friendly experience (₹1000).
La Dame RougeHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(%0484-2481062, 9496016599; www.ladamerouge.com; Manapilly, Ayyampally; r incl breakfast & dinner €80-180; W)
Wrapped in greenery, 4.5km southeast of Cherai Beach, this blue-washed 250-year-old house makes an intimate, character-filled escape. French owner Marco has five thoughtfully styled, all-different heritage-chic rooms; one is a massive split-level suite with its own massage room. The food, served at a communal table, is a tasty fusion of French, Indian and fresh seafood. Ask locally for ‘Marco’s house’.
Chilliout CafeCAFE$$
(%9744138387; www.facebook.com/chillioutcafe; Cherai Beach; mains ₹180-550; hnoon-9pm Thu-Tue; W)
A breezy, open-sided, French-Portuguese-Indian-run hang-out for sea views, relaxed vibes and authentically good European-style comfort food right by the beach. Delicious burgers, pizzas, pastas, crepes, fresh juices, home-cooked fries and barbecue dishes are all carefully prepared by a charming team.
CHENNAMANGALAM’S HANDLOOM WEAVERS
The Chennamangalam area is known for its traditional handloom weaving industry, which was devastated by the 2018 Kerala floods, with the livelihoods of its 600 weavers (mostly women) suddenly at immense risk. The flood damage to the five handloom cooperative societies here is estimated to have hit a staggering 150 million rupees. A high-profile campaign spearheaded by Kochi designers has since been working to get this female-powered industry back on its feet – its chekkutty dolls, made using ruined saris, have become a symbol of the weavers’ (and Kerala’s) resilience.
8Getting There & Away
To get here from Fort Cochin, catch the roll-on roll-off vehicle ferry to Vypeen Island (per person ₹3, two-wheeler ₹9, car ₹50), then either take an autorickshaw from the jetty (₹500 to ₹600) or catch one of the frequent northbound buses (₹20, one hour) to Cherai village, 1.5km east of the beach. Buses also run every 10 minutes from Ernakulam’s Boat Jetty bus stand (map; Ernakulam Boat Jetty, Ernakulam) to North Paravur (₹20, one hour; 6km east of Cherai Beach).
North Paravur & Chennamangalam
Nowhere is the tightly woven religious cloth that is India more apparent than in North Paravur and Chennamangalam, 30km north of Kochi, home to one of the oldest synagogues in Kerala. Also here are a Jesuit church and the ruins of a Jesuit college (the Jesuits first arrived in Chennamangalam in 1577), a Hindu temple on a hill overlooking the Periyar River, a 16th-century mosque, and Muslim and Jewish burial grounds. In North Paravur town, you’ll find the agraharam (place of Brahmins), a small street of closely packed and brightly coloured houses originally settled by Tamil Brahmins.
Travel agencies in Fort Cochin organise tours to both places.
Buses serve North Paravur every 10 minutes from Ernakulam’s Boat Jetty bus stand (₹20, one hour). The area is also easily reached by local bus from Cherai Beach (only 6km west).
Around 5km northeast of North Paravur, the beautifully restored Chennamangalam Synagogue (admission ₹2, camera ₹10; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) is one of Kerala’s most ancient, established in 1420 (though rebuilt in 1614 following a fire). The interior is awash with door and ceiling wood-reliefs in dazzling colours, while just outside lies one of the oldest tombstones in India – inscribed with the Hebrew date corresponding to 1269.
Thrissur (Trichur)
%0487 / POP 315,960
While the rest of Kerala has its fair share of celebrations, untouristed, slightly chaotic Thrissur is the cultural cherry on the festival cake, with a seemingly endless list of energetic festivities. Centred around a large park (known as the ‘Round’) and a Hindu temple complex, Thrissur worked as a second capital for the Cochin royal family during the 16th century, and is also home to a Nestorian Christian community whose denomination dates to the 3rd century AD.
1Sights
Thrissur is renowned for its central temple, as well as for its impressive churches, including the massive whitewashed Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral (St Thomas College Rd; hdawn-dusk), the splendid neo-Gothic 1925 Basilica of Our Lady of Dolours (map Google map; Puttanpalli Church, New Church; High Rd; hdawn-dusk), and the 1814 Marth Mariam Church (map Google map; Chaldean Church, Nestorian Church; www.churchoftheeastindia.org; High Rd; hdawn-dusk), headquarters of India’s Chaldean Syrian community.
Archaeology MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0487-2333056; Thrissur-Shornur Rd; adult/child ₹20/5; h9.30am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
The refurbished Archaeology Museum is housed in the wonderful 200-year-old Sakthan Thampuran Palace, built in Keralan-Dutch style. Its mix of artefacts includes 12th-century Keralan bronze sculptures and giant earthenware pots, weaponry, coins and a lovely carved chessboard. To the side is a shady heritage garden.
Vadakkunathan Kshetram TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(map Google map; Round; h5-10am & 5-8pm)
Finished in classic Keralan architecture, one of the oldest Hindu temples in the state crowns the low hill at the heart of Thrissur. It’s dedicated to Shiva and though its present form dates from the 16th to 17th centuries, it has its roots in the 9th century. Only Hindus are allowed inside, though the intricate wood carvings on the main gate are worth admiring and the surrounding park is a popular spot to linger.
zFestivals & Events
Thrissur PooramRELIGIOUS
(www.thrissurpooramfestival.com; hApr/May)
The largest and most colourful of Kerala’s temple festivals, with huge processions of caparisoned elephants around the Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple. Animal-rights campaigns against Thrissur Pooram have started to gain momentum in recent years, as concerns have grown over the welfare of the captive temple elephants.
4Sleeping & Eating
Gurukripa HeritageHERITAGE HOTEL$
(map Google map; %0487-2421895; http://gurukripaheritage.in; Chembottil Lane; r with AC ₹1600-1900, without AC ₹900; aW)
Almost a century old but now neatly refurbished, Gurukripa is a fine budget heritage hotel with more charm than most, in a quietish spot set back from the road just south of the Round. Simple rooms are unpretentious but clean, with heavy wooden doors, though some of the cheapest air-con ones are a tad musty.
Hotel Luciya PalaceHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0487-2424731; www.hotelluciyapalace.com; Marar Rd; s ₹3250-3780, d ₹4070-7670; aW)
In a cream-coloured, colonial-style building, this is Thrissur’s most characterful midranger, and its spacious, modern rooms are great value (desks, hairdryers, tea/coffee trays, even shower curtains!). It’s tucked into a quiet cul-de-sac just 200m southwest of the Round, and has a good all-day multicuisine restaurant (mains ₹150 to ₹360).
Clayfingers PotteryGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0480-2792234; www.clayfingerspottery.com; Kadalassery; r incl breakfast ₹4750; aW)
For something uniquely creative, seek out these four palm-fringed ‘art cottages’ attached to an artisan pottery warehouse, which occupies a reincarnated 1950s brick-and-tile factory 13km south of Thrissur. Terracotta floors, stylish bathrooms, wooden bed frames and subtle wall art embellish the rooms, and the on-the-ball team also runs a terrace cafe. Guests can join resident artists for clay-pottery workshops.
oHotel BharathSOUTH INDIAN$
(map Google map; %0487-2421720; hotelbharathtcr@gmail.com; Chembottil Lane; mains ₹90-150; h6.30am-10pm)
Spotless, air-conditioned Bharath is widely regarded as the best veg restaurant in town and the place for a lunchtime thali (₹86 to ₹165), a Keralan breakfast or a spicy curry.
Corniche RestoINTERNATIONAL$$
(%819733448; www.facebook.com/cornicheresto; 1st fl, PIK Tower, St Thomas College Rd; dishes ₹90-360; h11.30am-11pm; W)
Indian flavours infuse the global-inspired menu at this fashionable hang-out furnished with cosy booths, suspended lamps and coffee paraphernalia. Spicy-pumpkin pastas and paneer-masala wraps meet chicken-tikka burgers and spice-laced omelettes, and there are freshly squeezed juices. It’s 500m east of the Round.
Navaratna RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$
(map Google map; %0484-7241994; Round West; mains ₹130-210; h10am-11pm)
Dark, intimate and air-con-cooled, this is one of the classier dining experiences in the city centre, with marble-effect floors and seating at check-cloth tables on raised platforms. Downstairs is veg and upstairs is nonveg, highlighting lots of North Indian specialities and a few Chinese and Keralan dishes.
8Getting There & Around
Hundreds of autorickshaws (Round South) gather at the Round and usually use the meter; short trips cost ₹20.
BUS
From Thrissur’s KSRTC bus stand (%0487-2421150; RS Rd) buses leave every 20 to 30 minutes for Trivandrum (₹250, seven hours), Ernakulam (Kochi; ₹72, 3½ hours), Calicut (₹102, four hours), Palakkad (₹60, three hours) and Kottayam (₹124, four hours). Hourly buses go to Kannur (₹130, six hours). There’s a noon bus to Coimbatore (₹100, three hours); otherwise change at Palakkad. Buses also serve Mysuru (Mysore; ₹600, eight hours, 2.30pm, 9pm and 10pm) and Bengaluru (Bangalore; ₹700 to ₹1000, nine hours, 8pm and 9pm).
Frequent local services chug along to Guruvayur (₹35, one hour), Irinjalakuda (₹32, 50 minutes) and Cheruthuruthy (₹40, 1½ hours). Two private bus stands – Sakthan Thampuran (Pattalam Rd) and Priyadarshini (North) (Thrissur-Shornur Rd) – have more buses to these destinations, though the chaos involved in navigating the two hardly makes using them worthwhile.
TRAIN
The train station is 1.5km southwest of the Round, with regular services to Ernakulam (2nd class/sleeper/3AC ₹60/140/495, 1½ to 2½ hours), Calicut (₹70/140/495, three hours), Coimbatore (₹90/140/495, three hours) and Trivandrum (₹110/195/495, six to 7½ hours).
MAHé
On the Malabar Coast about 10km south of Thalasseri (formerly Tellicherry), riverside Mahé is surrounded by, but not actually part of, Kerala – it’s part of the Union Territory of Puducherry (Pondicherry), formerly under French India. It was occupied by the French in 1721, and finally returned to India in 1954 (though some inhabitants opted for French citizenship). Apart from the riverfront promenade with its Parisian-style street lamps, the province is similar to other towns along Kerala’s coast, and Malayalam and English are the main languages. The other obvious difference is that there is no restriction on the sale of alcohol here (unlike in Kerala) and sales tax is low.
Around Thrissur
The Thrissur region supports several institutions that are nursing the dying classical Keralan performing arts back to health, while Guruvayur, 25km northwest of Thrissur, is home to the celebrated Shri Krishna Temple (Guruvayur; h3am-1pm & 4.30-10pm), closed to non-Hindus.
Frequent local buses from Thrissur’s KSRTC bus stand serve Guruvayur (₹35, one hour), Irinjalakuda (₹32, 50 minutes) and Cheruthuruthy (₹40, 1½ hours), or take a taxi.
Kerala KalamandalamCULTURAL PROGRAMS
(%0488-4262418; www.kalamandalam.org; Cheruthuruthy; courses per month ₹600; hJun-Mar)
Using an ancient Gurukula system of learning, students undergo intensive study in Kathakali, mohiniyattam (dance of the enchantress), Kootiattam, percussion, voice and violin. A Day with the Masters (Indian/foreigner ₹1000/1400) is a morning program allowing visitors to tour the theatre and classes and see various art and cultural presentations; book ahead by email. It’s 30km north of Thrissur.
F