5 JUST FOR FUN
It’s a testament to the incredible adaptability of PVC pipe that some of the most creative uses for this material are some of the most fun. And who doesn’t want to have fun?
The projects in this chapter are somewhat less challenging than elsewhere in the book, and they are also more forgiving of variations or the occasional measurement error. That means they are well suited to youngsters who want to get their hands dirty. Which is to say, just about every youngster.
The toys in this chapter are a chance for young DIYers to learning about project construction, science, workshop basics, and more. Making a PVC Archer’s Bow will teach the young archer not only about the tools of their trade but also about tension, trajectory, and velocity. Building a Giant Xylophone is the opportunity for a child to discover basic principles about music, while diving into the pure thrill of making up songs. All these creations allow for flights of imagination and a sense of accomplishment. And, ultimately, they translate to hours of wholesome fun. They can also be a chance for parents to bond with kids over shared interests.
There are also projects that nurture more adult hobbies such as photography. Some may be slanted toward an older audience, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less enjoyable. In fact, tackle a few of the projects in this chapter and you just may rediscover the kid inside of you.
Toss Across Game
Flute
Craft Organizer
Simple Slingshot
Arrow Slingshot
Water-Balloon Launcher
PHOTOGRAPHER’S HELPER
The modern explosion of digital technology—from miniature digital cameras, to high-definition camera phones, to mobile body cams—has led to a profusion of amateur photography. But just because you’re not paid for your photos doesn’t mean they have to look amateurish. The right lighting can go a long way toward making anything you photograph beautiful. The simple setup in this project takes advantage of lighting principles professionals use in their studios, but at a fraction of the cost.
Basically, this “photo booth” is designed to disperse light evenly and eliminate shadows. The scrim screen diffuses the light, making it softer and more even. That, in turn, makes everything from small crafts you’re photographing for your online store to newly prepared dishes you want to shoot for your food blog look like the photo just stepped out from the pages of a magazine.
The measurements are forgiving. Although the frame should be relatively square, you can make this bigger or smaller as your needs demand. The idea is to create a photo cube over which scrim paper (special white opaque paper designed to diffuse direct light) can be taped. However, depending on local availability, scrim paper can be pricey. You can achieve a similar result using thick white bed sheets cut to suit the frame. In fact, you can save quite a bit of money if you find the bed sheets at a charity store or garage sale. Of course, you may even have an old sheet set in your linen closet. You can even use fabric shower curtains or most any thick, white, opaque fabric.
The clip lamps are available in varying intensities online and at most major home centers and lighting stores. The cost isn’t prohibitive, and the lamps should last for as long as your photographic hobby does.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Build each leg assembly by cementing a cap on one end of each 9 3/4" leg and connecting the free ends in either side of a tee.
3 Construct the uprights and top support, working from the legs up. Cement a 19 7/8" upright into each leg tee, and dry fit a tee on the other end of the upright. Add a 3" upper upright on the other side of the tee and an elbow on the other end of the upper upright. Connect the elbows by dry fitting the 23 1/4" support crossbrace between them.
4 Check that the frame is square (eyeball it at this point). Dry fit the top of the scrim frame together, with 3" outer crossbrace sections fit into separate crosses and the crosses connected with the 14 3/4" center crossbrace. Carefully dry fit this assembly between the upright tees to ensure the tee inlets are in line. Measure top to bottom and side to side to ensure the frame is completely square.
5 Use a level to check that the open inlets of the cross in the scrim top frame are perfectly horizontal. With a marker, make key marks at all the connections in the supporting frame and scrim top frame. Disassemble the structure and cement the pieces back together.
6 Cement the 11 3/4" scrim frame top rails into the inlets on one side of the crosses. Cement the 4 1/2" scrim frame top rails into the opposite side. Dry fit three-way elbows onto the ends of all the top rails. Dry fit 20" scrim frame posts into all the elbow inlets point down and a 14 3/4" crossbrace connecting the three-way elbows. Add three-way elbows on the bottoms of the posts, and connect the elbows with a 14 3/4" crossbrace. The bottom edges of the bottom elbows should sit flush with the bottom edges of the legs. Adjust if they do not.
7 Use a level to check that the posts are all plumb, then connect the bottom elbows with 17 1/2" scrim frame bottom rails. Make key marks at all the connections for the scrim frame. Disassemble and then cement the pieces back together.
8 Carefully tape scrim paper sections (or white sheet) over the scrim frame, including underneath it. Clip a lamp to each upright and one on the top frame support crossbrace.
ARCHER’S BOW
Archery is a time-tested sport that was a necessary skill for people once upon a long time ago and has always been a favorite of kids from ancient would-be warriors to modern sleepaway campers. If you want to provide an interesting outdoor activity that will get your child out of the house and away from the TV and other electronic devices, you could do a lot worse than build your own backyard archery range.
This bow uses the simple basic principles that make all archery bows work. The natural tension in the pipe resists flexing, creating “draw weight” that gives the bow power when the string is pulled back. Because of the modest size of the pipe, the bow is moderately powered, meaning fewer broken windows and errant arrows. The “string” used is actually braided nylon twine that is less prone to snapping or fraying than standard string or twine.
Because it’s easy to heat PVC pipe enough to be malleable, you can modify the bow as you see fit; for instance, you could heat and flatten the ends for a more traditional recurve shape. You can also paint the bow to customize it, or decorate it with colored tape.
The bow will accept any type of nocked arrow, but for safety’s sake, it’s best to use arrows with padded tips.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand the cut ends of the pipe absolutely smooth. Measure to the center of the bow, mark the center point with a grease pencil, and wrap duct tape at this point (centered on the center point), to create a grip.
2 Slip a cap on either end of the bow. Use a long straightedge and a speed square to mark matching centerlines across each cap, and then trace the lines over onto both sides of the caps. Mark the end points on each side of the lines on the bow itself.
3 Remove the caps and drill 1/8" holes all the way through the bow at the marks at each end. Use a 1/8" rattail file or similar to smooth the holes.
4 Tie a tight knot in one end of the nylon twine. Thread the twine through the holes in one end of the bow and then down and through the holes in the other end. Have a helper slightly bend the bow, and tie a tight knot in the other end, to secure the twine. Cement the caps on the end of the bow.
SOCCER GOAL
Soccer is the most popular game in the world, and America has caught the fever. Boys and girls of all ages are discovering the fun that can be had on their own soccer pitch with nothing more than a bicolor ball. Of course, in soccer as in life, it’s always nice to have a clear goal to shoot for.
The goal in this project boasts a silhouette that is incredibly similar to professional soccer goals, if somewhat slimmed down. It couldn’t be easier to build. The hardest part is making the decision of whether to leave it in two pieces for easy transport or to cement the whole structure together so that it is always ready for action.
The steps include an option for weighting down the base, which is something you should seriously consider. The goal is lightweight and can easily be knocked out of place on the field during gameplay.
You can also paint the structure to make it more visible. The netting used here is extremely inexpensive and comes in several colors, so it’s another way to put a unique touch on the goal and make it easier for young players to locate. Modify the size of the goal to suit older players; the size as designed is best suited to players ages five to eight.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand the cut ends of all the pipes smooth.
2 Working on a flat, level work surface with plenty of space to spread out, cement a 20 1/4" base side into one side of an elbow and a 32 1/4" post into the other. Slide elbows onto the open ends of the side and base, so that the open elbow inlets are perfectly perpendicular to the other pieces—check them with a speed square. With a grease pencil, mark the joints with key marks and then cement the elbows into position. Repeat the process with the second side.
3 Build the top of the back frame with an 8" back outer rail, a tee, an 11 1/4" back inner rail, a tee, another inner rail, a tee, and finish with a second outer rail. The tee inlets should all lie flat. Make key marks, disassemble, and cement the pieces together. Repeat to build the back frame bottom.
4 Cement the 39 1/4" back supports between the tees in the back frame top and bottom.
5 Dry fit the side elbows onto either end of the back assembly. Use a level to check that the goal sits stable on a flat surface and isn’t skewed. Make key marks at the connections, disassemble, and cement the sides to the back.
Optional: You can leave the connections between the sides and back uncemented to make transporting the goal easier.
6 Wrap the netting around the frame, leaving the front opening clear, and use snap clamps to secure the netting all the way around the frame.
TOY CAR GARAGE
Few toys get underfoot faster in a busy family household than toy cars that have raced away from where they belong. There are normally so many of these cars in any home with an enthusiast that they begin to pop up everywhere. But, like the car in the driveway, if you want to keep them in order, you need to garage toy cars.
A simple organizer such as the one in this project is not a challenge—it’s even simple enough that you could get your young car lover involved in the actual fabrication. The individual car park tubes are just cut segments of 2-inch PVC pipe, layered in rows, one on top of the other. To perfectly accommodate the pipe, the interior of the plywood box used here was 9 1/2 by 10 3/4 inches. The result is not only a “garage” that keeps the toy car fleet organized, but it’s also a fun and fascinating way for little ones to display some of their favorite cars. The idea of showing off these colorful scale models will spur the youngster to pick up the cars and replace them in the garage when playtime is over.
If you want to add a little decorative interest, you can paint the tubes, although the colorful cars show up better against the white. You can also scale the garage to accommodate the number of toy cars in your child’s collection—but always leave a few extra slots for expansion, because these collections inevitably grow.
You can use a wood box as is done here, or use a plastic or pressed cardboard box from a crafts store. Just make sure that the box has rigid sides—and the best interior dimensions for the garage itself is 11 7/8 by 20 inches (which will accommodate 10 rows of tubes for a total of 45 parking spaces). Lastly, you’ll find instructions for a PVC pipe racetrack to put all those garaged cars to good use.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Deburr and sand the cut ends by cutting a 4" section of pipe-insulating foam sleeve and sticking self-adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper to one side. You can then quickly sand the cut pipe sections smooth. It’s important that they be absolutely free of any snags or rough sections. Use a tack cloth to remove all the sanding dust once you’re done.
2 Paint the tubes and the box at this time, if you’re finishing them. Otherwise, sand the box smooth as necessary to ensure that it won’t cause splinters.
3 Set the box on its end (or on its side, if that’s how you’ll be storing the cars), and begin layering the car tubes in the box. Fit them as tightly as possible, with each successive row nesting in between the tubes below. Dab PVC primer and cement to join the side of tubes layered on top of other tubes, to hold them in place as you build the rows. If necessary, at the top of the garage, you can use smaller diameter PVC pipe scraps to fill in.
SUMMER SOAKER WATER CANNON
The best kind of summer fun involves water. If you don’t have a pool, don’t let the kids sweat and get a bad case of the grumpies. Instead, arm them with these super simple handheld water cannons and let them soak each other for cooling relief and busy fun all in one.
The hydraulic principle behind this water gun is so basic that you’ll pretty much never have to worry about the gun breaking down. Whether kids use it for a running water battle through suburban streets or it serves as a readily available pool toy, the soaker will hold up to whatever young water warriors can dish out. As a bonus, the spray strength from the gun is just enough to be refreshing, but not enough to hurt anyone. You won’t have to worry about injuries or tearful complaints!
Make it just as it is, or make multiples and let each kid paint or decorate his or her own weapon to personalize the water cannon and make for even more fun.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand down the edges until they are perfectly smooth—the success of the water cannon will rely on this.
2 Measure and mark the exact center of one of the 2" caps, and drill out a centered hole in the cap with the 1 3/4" hole saw. Sand the edges of the hole perfectly smooth.
3 Cement the 1 1/4" cap to one end of the 2" × 1 1/4" compression sleeve. Work the O-ring over the open end of the compression sleeve, so that it is snug against the lip of the cap.
4 Cement the coupling to one end of the 22" × 1 1/4" pipe. Cement the open end of the compression sleeve into the open end of the coupling. Cement each barrel section into one side of the 2" tee. Cement one end of the front handle into the open inlet of the tee.
5 Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of a second 2" cap (this will create one direct stream of water from the gun; for a more diffuse spray, drill a triangle of 1/8" holes, or any combination). Cement the cap onto that end of the barrel.
6 Spread silicone grease around the inside of the open side of the 2" barrel. Slide the 1 1/4" plunger assembly, O-ring side first, into the opening in the 2" barrel. Push the plunger all the way into the barrel.
7 Very carefully cement the center-hole 2" cap onto the back of the barrel, sliding it over the plunger assembly without getting any cement on the plunger.
8 Cement one side of the 1 1/4" tee onto the back of the plunger. Cement the 1 1/4" rear handle into the nipple of the tee. Cement caps onto the end of the 1 1/4" handle and the end of the front 2" handle. Test the water cannon out by depressing the plunger as far as it will go, immersing the nozzle of the barrel into a bucket of water, and slowly drawing the water in by pulling the plunger back. Then blast away!
WATER TABLE
Outdoor play should always be the order of the day in the summer. There’s no reason not to take advantage of beautiful weather, and the bane of every parent is the drone of the TV in the daylight hours. It may be hard to compete with electronic diversions, but you can entice your youngsters outside with a most unusual playground—the undersea world of their imaginations.
This water table is a little slice of the beach brought right into the backyard. It might seem like a simple idea, but children take to it just as readily as they do a swimming hole, and right where you can keep an eye on them. The table uses a repurposed plastic storage bin held in place by a sturdy frame. The bin is filled half full of water and has overhead spouts for more water and sand. Just add bath toys (or just about any toy), stand back, and let the fun begin.
The best part? Easy cleanup. To tidy the table after a long day of use, simply remove and dump the plastic basin, spray it out with a hose, spray the frame clean, and the whole setup is ready to go for the next day.
The frame is designed to be sturdy enough to not only hold the weight of the water, but also put up with the excited movements of kids at play. It’s specifically sized to be manageable, so that even young children can easily reach into the basin to play with toys. (Using the overhead spouts may require a stepstool for younger or smaller children; see here for how to make one.)
Be aware that that although not difficult to build, there are many pieces in this construction and they need to work together for everything to fit properly. Dry fit everything before final construction, and make adjustments as necessary.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth. Measure segments in the same components (i.e., leg to leg) next to each other, to ensure they are exactly the same.
2 Build the legs for the table frame by cementing caps onto each 16 3/8" lower leg and cementing one side of a tee onto the other end. Cement a 4 3/4" upper leg into the opposite side of each of these tees.
3 Start the tabletop frame by cementing each 6 1/2" frame end section into a three-way elbow. On a flat, level work surface, complete the two top frame ends by dry fitting the open ends of the frame end sections with tees. The nipple of the tees should point in the exact opposite direction of one nipple of the three-way elbows (the other nipple will point straight up from the work surface, perpendicular to the tee nipple direction). When you’re sure the orientations of the elbows and tees is correct, use a grease pencil to make key marks at the connections. Disassemble, and cement the frame end assemblies together.
4 Connect the two top frame end assemblies with the 32 1/8" upper sides, dry fitting the long pieces between the elbows of both assemblies. Sit the completed frame on the level work surface (resting on the open elbow inlets) and measure the diagonals to ensure the frame is square. Check that the frame doesn’t rock and isn’t skewed and that the end tee nipples are pointing straight up. Disassemble, and cement the sides between the frame end assemblies.
5 On the flat, level work surface, dry fit the lower frame side by plugging a 4 3/4" lower side outer in one end of a tee with an 8 7/8" lower side inner on the other end of the tee. Build four of these pairs, and then connect the longer inners with tees. Finally, join the sides you’ve just assembled with the 14 1/4" crossbraces fit into the open inlets on the tees. Measure diagonals to make sure the lower frame is square and that it sits flat. Make key marks at the connection points, disassemble, and cement the frame back together.
6 Turn the top frame upside down on the work surface. Dry fit the legs into the elbows, with the tees on each side pointing in toward each other. Dry fit the lower table frame outers into the leg tees. Stand the frame upright to ensure it stands without wobbling. Make key marks at the connection points, disassemble, and cement the pieces of the lower frame to the legs.
7 Cement the 13 1/2" top posts into the upward-facing tees on both ends of the top frame. Assemble the top water features together by cementing the top support sections in a line, separated by crosses (the crosses should lie flat on the work surface).
8 Dry fit the top support assembly into elbows placed atop the posts. Check with a torpedo level that the open cross inlets are plumb. Make key marks at the elbows, remove the top support, and cement it back into place. Cement the water tubes into the bottom inlets of the crosses. Cement a tee on one tube and an elbow on the other (align them by eye, so that they are roughly parallel to the top support).
9 Cement the reducer bushings into either side of the tee. Place the funnels in the tops of the water tube crosses, and place the plastic bin into the frame. Now just add water and have fun!
QUICK 3
When it comes to enjoyable downtime, it can usually be made more enjoyable with the help of PVC pipe. For instance, you can create a multitude of yard games using nothing more than odds and ends from other PVC projects. The Toss Across Game is just one example. It is exceedingly simple to craft and to play, and the basic idea (teams facing one another across a lawn, throwing things at a target) translates to other yard games, such as ring toss.
When it comes to PVC fun, though, it’s not just about games. PVC pipe has its musical side as well. The pipe makes an excellent Flute, and thinner pipes can be coupled with overturned 5-gallon buckets, to make a portable drum set. You can even make more exotic instruments, such as the Giant Xylophone. Of course, the pipe’s nature lends itself to the more practical side of fun, such as organizing art and craft supplies, gift wrapping material, or other hobby items.
1 TOSS ACROSS GAME
Some of the simplest summertime fun, especially at a cookout or other backyard party, is a quick game of toss across. The game involves tossing a beanbag or tennis ball across a field of play (usually about 15’ long, but do what makes the most sense for your crowd) into tubes that have been cut to different heights and given values based on how hard they are to hit. The PVC pipe version involves cutting 3 1/2” pipe into nine sections of the following lengths: one at 3”, two at 4”, three at 5”, two at 6”, and one at 7”. All the tops should be cut at a 30° angle. Arrange them in a diamond pattern as shown, in ascending heights. Drill holes through the pipes at the bottom and zip tie the tubes together in formation. Then use stick-on numbers to assign the values as shown. Make two sets of tubes for a true toss across game (each team stands next to one unit, for their turn throwing), and use beanbags, juggling balls, or tennis balls.
2 FLUTE
If you’re just looking to create a noisemaker for your very young musician, you can create a crude flute by cutting a 3/4” PVC pipe to 16”. Cork one end and drill a 1/2” mouthpiece hole about 1/4” from that end. Then drill 3/8” holes at 6 7/8”, 8”, and 9 1/8” from the end, offsetting the third hole slightly off center of the other two. Drill three more holes: an 11/32” opening 10 3/4” from the end, a 7/16” hole 11 1/2” from the end, and a 5/16” hole 12 3/4” from the end. Make sure you sand all the holes and the entire pipe completely smooth. Let your children discover their own tunes, or get a beginner music book and begin building a repertoire.
3 CRAFT ORGANIZER
Nothing is more frustrating than starting a crafts project and discovering that you can’t find anything you need. Disorganization is the enemy of fun in crafts. But a few PVC pipes can whip your crafting area into shape with very little fuss and muss. You can make the most versatile organizers from 4” pipe, but size the pipe to accommodate what you need to store. For instance, if you’re looking for a container to corral all your art pencils, a 3” pipe might work better. In any case, measure the length of what it is you will store, then cut the pipe to three- quarters of that length. Cut one end to a 30° angle and sand the cut ends smooth. Mount the organizers to a separate board, or directly to a wall, by drilling a countersunk pilot hole through the edge of the pipe at the angled end, then screwing the pipe to the surface (shorter side on top). Make as many organizers as you need to keep your art or crafts area neat as a pin.
SWORD & LIGHT SABER
Like it or not, few kids can resist the lure of a good weapon and some imaginary battle. But swords are always better for the imagination than guns, and here are two options that can lead to hours of mock dramatics and epic battles. The first is a classic broadsword and the second is a fun light saber.
Either one of these won’t take more than a few minutes to throw together and can be completed for about the price of a couple large coffees at the local coffeehouse.
Although the sword is durable and, with the rounded tip courtesy of a PVC cap, shouldn’t be dangerous, you may want to wrap the blade in pipe insulation or a similar padding for younger children or those who tend toward the rambunctious.
SWORD
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Cement a cap on one end of each of the cut pieces.
3 Cement the open ends of each of the cut pieces into the inlets of the cross; the blade and handle must be opposite each other. Sand and paint the sword as desired.
LIGHT SABER
HOW YOU MAKE IT
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Prime and paint the coupling silver, masking off the interior and protecting it from any overspray. Cement the blade in the smaller inlet of the coupling and the handle in the larger side.
3 Prime and paint the cap gloss black, being careful to protect the inner surfaces from any overspray. Let the cap dry and then cement it onto the end of the handle.
4 Wrap the handle in a random pattern of alternating bands made by winding duct tape and electrical tape around the handle. Cut the pool noodle to a length matching the blade, dab a little silicone adhesive on the top end of the blade, and slide the pool noodle down over the blade.
GIANT XYLOPHONE
There is a not-so-fine line between kids making noise and kids making music. The instrument in this project balances on that line, offering relatively pleasing tones for anyone within earshot, and still delivering loads of satisfying noise-making fun for kids—whether they have any musical aptitude or not.
This is similar to many basic oversized metal pipe xylophones available for children, although the instrument makes a more muted, lower register sound. The construction is, though, a rough approximation of an actual professional xylophone. If you want to create an exactly correct instrument on which your child can develop an ear for tones, you’ll find tables of lengths and diameters of pipe as they relate to actual keys online.
But really, any music education starts with the love of making sounds that please the ear. That is the goal with this xylophone. The relationship of tones between pipes is the same as any professional-quality xylophone. And the beauty is, beating on the tubes is pure fun for any child.
To foster a sense of joy and love of music, it helps if the instrument looks like fun. That’s why you should strongly consider painting each tube a different color, or decorating them with colored tapes, stencils, stickers, or some other fun look. Ultimately, the more fun the child finds in using the xylophone, the more music he or she will look to make.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the 3/4" pipe segments and wood to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges smooth. If you’re painting the wood, paint it now and let it dry.
2 Cement the 14" feet into the two opposite sides of the two tees. Cement the 3/4" caps onto the open ends of the feet.
3 On a flat, level work surface, lay out the wood top and bottom braces, parallel and about 31" apart. Lay the first 40" leg across the braces, with its top edge aligned with the top of one brace and in 2" from the ends of the braces. Position the opposite leg in exactly the same position at the other end of the braces, and check that both the legs and the braces are correctly aligned perpendicular to one another. When you’re satisfied with the positioning, use a power drill to fasten the legs to the braces with pipe straps.
4 Measure and make the first mark 31/4" from the brace end, and then space the other seven layout marks 35/16" apart. These marks serve as centerlines for installing the eight pipes evenly over the 36 1/2" brace length.
5 Attach the feet to each leg and stand the xylophone frame upright. Adjust the feet as necessary so that they are perpendicular to the faces of the braces, and so that the frame does not wobble. Make key marks at the tee connections, remove the legs from the feet, and cement them back in position.
6 Carefully align the xylophone pipes from shortest to longest, along the marks you made on the top brace. Use a level to check plumb, and attach each pipe to the top brace with a pipe strap and screws so that the pipe projects above the top brace’s top edge by about 2". Note: Do not overtighten the connection holding each pipe in place; if the clamp is too snug, the pipe will not sound its “note.”
7 Wrap the end of the 1/2" pipe in several turns of scrap fabric (or use weatherstripping or other foam), and tape it tight to the pipe to make a padded xylophone hammer. You can decorate the tops of the tubes with colored tape; although only four colors have been used here, you can use different colors or markings for each tube to establish patterns if you are planning on playing songs.
BOTTLE ROCKET LAUNCHER
Anybody who has ever watched the launch of a rocket from Cape Canaveral knows just how exciting watching a guided spacecraft burst from its base can be. It’s a fascination for adults and children alike. What could be better than bringing that fascination right into your own backyard, with your own launch pad and spaceship made from nothing more than a recycled plastic bottle?
This is one of those fun toys that every kid will appreciate—and will become involved in right from the initial stages of fabrication. That appreciation is the basis for a lot of learning while having fun. This launcher illustrates basic principles about pressure, velocity, volume, and more.
The construction is relatively simple, although the actual launch mechanism is a little bit complicated and needs to be crafted correctly to hold down the pressurized bottle. You’ll find a lot of instructions online for similar launchers that are simpler and require the bottle be held in place until launch. You’d be wise to use a true hold-down device such as the one in this project, because the pressure buildup that launches the bottle can be significant. Holding the bottle can lead to injuries. On that note, always keep in mind that pressurized containers can be dangerous. This launcher should only be used with adult supervision, and everyone should stand far back from the launcher when launching the bottle.
Experiment with different amounts of pressure to determine the best launch dynamics for the highest flight. The potential to create future astronauts is nearly unlimited.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. With a utility knife or sandpaper, trim or sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Secure the cap in a vise with the end facing up. Use the top of the Schrader valve as a template to mark a drill hole in the center of the cap (the hole may need to be slightly larger to allow the base to pass through, but start small so that you don’t drill too large a hole; the valve must fit snugly and securely in place). Drill the hole. Sand the hole thoroughly inside and out to eliminate any sharp points that might damage the valve. Coat the hole with a small amount of oil or silicone lubricant and push the valve through from inside the cap, securing the valve’s mounting flanges on either side of the cap hole.
3 Cement the cap onto one end of the 18 1/2" air line leading to the launcher. Avoid getting any PVC cement on the tire valve. Cement an elbow onto the opposite end of the air line.
4 Cement one end of the 11 1/2" launch base into the open inlet of the elbow. Position the two base boards at either end of the air line, perpendicular to the line, with the air line centered over the boards. Screw the air line to the boards with pipe straps, leaving the straps just loose enough that the air line can move.
5 Use a level to check that the elbow and launch base are pointing up and perfectly plumb. Adjust the air line if they are not, and then tighten down the pipe straps.
6 Build the launch mechanism very carefully to ensure the bottle will sit correctly and launch safely. Start by cementing the cross onto the open end of the launch base pipe. Now cement plugs in each side (horizontal) inlet on the cross. Cement the 8" launch nipple into the top of the cross, and cement the 1/2" coupling to the top of the nipple.
7 Roll the O-ring over the 8" launch post. Dry fit the launch post into the top of the coupling. Snug the O-ring down on top of the coupling lip. Slip an empty plastic bottle upside down onto the launch post, and guide it down so that the top lip of the bottle sits on the O-ring.
8 Hold a zip tie upside down and press the top (tongue end) to the nipple just above where it goes into the top of the cross. Press the zip tie against the coupling and bottle top, and check that the receiver clicks into place just above the bottom ridge of the bottle’s neck. If it doesn’t, adjust the position of the zip tie until it does (it can be off by 1/16" to 1/8"). Mark the exact location of the zip tie tongue tip on the nipple.
9 Use two rubber bands to hold the seven zip ties in place around the 8" launch post. Align the bottom of the ties with the mark you made on the nipple, and wrap duct tape around the bottom to secure them in place. Wrap another layer of duct tape over the first to completely secure the ties to the nipple.
10 Drill a 1/8" hole at one end of the 1" coupling. Guide one end of the 3' length of string through the hold and tie the string to the coupling, knotting it securely. Compress the top of the zip ties and slide the 1" coupling over them, over the 1/2" coupling, and down onto the shoulders of the cross. Cement the launch post into the top of the 1/2" coupling.
11 Screw a screw eye into the top of each base board, and thread the launch string through the eyes. To use the launcher, fill a plastic soda bottle half full with water, and quickly turn it upside down over the post and down onto the O-ring. Pull the larger coupling up over the zip ties to compress them over the bottom of the bottle’s cap threads, holding the bottle in place. Connect a bike pump with a gauge to the valve and pump up to about 15 psi. Release the rocket by pulling the string. Adjust the air pressure to get a higher or lower launch altitude.
QUICK 3
Backyard PVC pipe weaponry is a parent’s way of avoiding toy guns while giving kids a chance to work out pent-up aggression and excess energy against targets small and large. The three projects here all use different projectiles, but all are meant to be used for target practice. They all cost very little and take a modest amount of time and expertise to construct; in fact, these are all good kid-friendly projects that you can use to build a youngster’s workshop skills.
1 SIMPLE SLINGSHOT
A slingshot is one of the uncomplicated joys of childhood and can lead to many happy hours plinking cans off a fence or shooting targets in the backyard. This sturdy design, made of 1/2" PVC pipe and fittings, will hold up over the long term and is inexpensive to make. Craft the handle out of a 6" piece of pipe with a cap cemented on one end and a tee on the other. The 2 1/2" crossbars are cemented into either side of the tee, with elbows on the other ends (both pointing in the exact opposite direction from the handle). Cement 4 1/2" arms into the elbows and top with caps. Now just loop a slingshot replacement band around each arm and your backyard marksperson is ready for action (you might want to secure the loops with zip ties for added safety). Just be sure to institute the safety first rule: no shooting at anything alive!
2 ARROW SLINGSHOT
Not ready to commit the time and energy to construct the archery bow shown here? Never fear, there is a quicker way. This arrow slingshot is simply an 8" tube of 2" PVC pipe with holes drilled through one end. A slingshot replacement band is threaded through both holes and tied off, and the arrow is positioned inside the tube, with the back notched onto the band for firing. This can be more of a challenge to hit targets accurately than a bow would be, but it is also more portable and a lot of fun.
3 WATER-BALLOON LAUNCHER
Few things can tickle a youngster’s funny bone quite like launching a water balloon into the air, just to watch it splat against some unsuspecting surface. The base of this launcher is formed of two 3' long sections of 3" PVC pipe joined by a tee, and covered on each end with caps. Each base leg is filled with sand to hold it down. Each upright is made from a 5" section of the pipe cemented into a base leg tee and topped with a tee (a 3' crossbrace connects the tees on both sides). A 3' section is cemented into the other side of the tee, with holes drilled in the top end. String surgical tubing through the holes, and use an old dishtowel or cut up fabric from an old dress or pants for the cradle.
MARSHMALLOW SHOOTER
The problem with today’s toy guns—even those that shoot plastic or foam darts—is that they have become increasingly powerful. That power presents risks to children playing with the guns, even if the fun looks fairly harmless. But a marshmallow gun is about as benign as a shooter can get, and the projectiles could never be accused of being dangerous—just delicious.
This weapon relies on air power to shoot the puffy ammo. Although the gun may not be terribly accurate, it is pure, unqualified fun. There’s just something amusing about shooting at each other with the most angelic of foodstuffs.
There is really no need for any modifications of the design, because it is so simple. It is also forgiving of errors and will stand up to many, many backyard battles, even if it’s left out in the rain and the snow in between wars. You can, however, add some zing to this simple weapon by painting everything but the mouthpiece in a color or otherwise decorating the shooter to reflect the individual tastes of the warrior using it.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges smooth.
2 Assemble the barrel on a flat, level work surface. Lay out, from left to right, an elbow with one inlet horizontal and the other pointing forward; a 4” barrel segment; a tee with the nipple pointing away from you (opposite the elbow inlet); a 4” barrel segment; a tee with the nipple pointing toward you; and the 8” barrel nose.
3 Dry assemble the pieces when you’re sure the orientation is correct. Make key marks at all the connections, and then disassemble the barrel and cement it back together.
4 Cement the front and back handles into the elbow and parallel tee, and cement caps on the end of each handle.
5 Dry fit the post, elbow and blow tube into the upward facing tee. Lay the shooter on the work surface and ensure that the blow tube assembly is perfectly aligned with the shooter body and handles. When you’re satisfied that the pieces are all correctly aligned, make key marks at all the blow tube connections and disassemble the blow tube and post. Cement the pieces back in place in the shooter.
CAMERA TRIPOD
In this world ruled by smart phones and their on-board cameras, there is still room for the contemplative, high-quality images that can only be accomplished with a true SLR or digital camera. However, those cameras and the images they make rely on a steady base. That’s why a camera tripod is an absolute necessity in any serious photographer’s tool kit.
The problem is, full-featured aluminum tripods are pricey items. They can also be finicky and fragile; bumping them around your long-distance hikes to get that one-in-a-million shot of a flying hawk, wild bear, or deep-forest orchid is a sure way to trash a store-bought tripod.
The answer is this easy-to-build, super durable PVC tripod. Like the best tripods on the market, this one is adjustable. But it is also up to any challenge, from an urban photo scouting session, to a long drive in a pickup on a search for that ideal waterfall image. It’s a great alternative to expensive and daintier pro versions and idea even, if you just want to photograph family gatherings or backyard beauty scenes.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand the cut ends smooth.
2 Cement 3/4" caps onto the ends of all three front and back legs. Cement the open end of the 24 3/4" front leg into one end of the 45° elbow. Cement the open ends of each 21 3/4" rear leg into an elbow. Cement a 5" × 3/4" shoulder into each rear leg elbow.
3 Working on a flat, level work surface, dry fit the open ends of the shoulders into opposite sides of the cross, and dry fit the 1 5/8" × 3/4" front leg nipple between the bottom of the cross and one end of the 45° elbow. Dry fit the open end of the front leg into the open inlet of the 45° elbow.
4 Adjust the legs so that the top and bottom inlets of the cross are perfectly plumb. Once you’re satisfied with the positions of the legs, make key marks at all the cross and elbow connections. Disassemble the base, and then cement the pieces back together.
5 Check that the threaded tripod screw adapter works with the camera you own (if not, replace it with the appropriate size). Mark and drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the 1/2" cap. Attach the threaded tripod screw adapter to the cap by putting one end down through the hole and fastening a machine nut to the post on the inside of the cap.
6 Cement the cap onto the 13 1/2" × 1/2" post. Secure the post in a vise or drill press. Use a straight edge to measure, and mark a line down the length of the tube. Mark six holes, starting right below the lip of the cap and continuing every 2" down the length of the tube. Drill 1/4" holes at the marks, all the way through the opposite wall of the tube.
7 Carefully use a 7/8" spade bit to drill out the opening in the 1" to 1/2" bushing, removing the lip at the bottom of the 1/2" opening. Cement the 1" side of the bushing onto the end of the 13" × 1" post tube. Secure the tube horizontally in a vise or drill press, and drill a 1/4" hole through the end of the tube and the bushing, completely out the other side. Slide the post into this post tube and check that the cotter pin will easily pass through the hole in the post tube and one of the holes in the post, locking it in place. If not, re-drill the holes to accommodate the cotter pin.
8 Cement one end of the 3" × 3/4" post nipple into the top of the base cross and the other end into the 3/4" end of the 1" to 3/4" adapter. Cement the open end of the post tube into the top of the adapter. Position the post in the post tube to the height you prefer, and lock it in place with the cotter pin.
EGG CATAPULT
Building a catapult is a common school science project and for good reason. Not only is the mechanism a fundamental study in how stored energy can be used to hurl a projectile considerable distances, it’s just plain and simply fun.
There are lots of catapult designs, which use different forms of energy to create thrust and velocity, but all include a few basic features: a stable base, a long throwing arm, and a receptacle to hold the projectile. In the case of this very fundamental project, the energy is supplied by the user; the operator loads the cup and then slams the opposite end of the throwing arm down, launching the payload. The base has been purposely designed large and thick to accommodate the long throwing arm and the torsional forces produced.
You or your junior scientist can scale this catapult up to launch even larger projectiles. But as designed, it’s meant to hurl eggs. The satisfying splat the missile makes upon landing is all part of the fun. However, regardless of what you’re hurling, it’s wise from a science perspective to have a target and a way of measuring the distance achieved with any single shot. There are many experiments to be conducted, and the learning that goes along with them is all part of the fun.
1 With a tape measure and saw, measure and cut the pipe segments to match the cut list. Sand all the cut edges of the pipe sections completely smooth. Use the mouth of one elbow as a template to cut a circle out of the foam pad.
2 Build the sides on a flat, level work surface. Each side is constructed of two 12 1/2" sides joined by a tee and finished with elbows on either end. Dry fit the sides first, with the elbows lying flat and the nipple of the tee pointing directly up (check that it is plumb with the speed square). Both sides should be exactly the same length. Make key marks at the connections, and then disassemble and cement the components of each side together.
3 Cement a 12 1/2" end into the elbows of one side. Cement a 12 1/2" post into the tee nipple in each side.
4 Construct the throwing arm on a flat, level surface, with the central cross lying flat on the surface. Cement the 12 1/2" lower arm and the 17" upper arm in opposite inlets on the cross. Cement a cap onto the end of the lower arm. Dry fit an elbow onto the free end of the upper arm and use a speed square to ensure it is plumb and exactly perpendicular to the arm itself. Make a key mark and then cement it to the arm.
5 Cement a 5 1/4" fulcrum segment into the cross’s two open inlets. Sand the open ends of the fulcrum segments to ensure they will move freely in the top elbow inlets. Dry fit elbows onto the top of the posts, and dry fit the entire catapult together. Ensure that it doesn’t wobble and that the assembly isn’t skewed in any way. Make key marks at the connections for the top post elbows, and disassemble the catapult. Cement the elbows into place on the top of the posts.
6 Slide the one side of the fulcrum into the side top elbow (the side with the ends already cemented into position). Carefully cement the two lower elbows of the opposite side into position, leaving the top elbow-fulcrum connection dry. Stuff the foam circle down into the catapult elbow cup.