acorn squash, about, 269
agriculture. See farming
almond(s)
-cherry cobbler, 188–89
mandarin parfait with candied ginger, 382–83
pear frangipane tart, 300–301
saffron, and black olives, artichokes braised with, 46
apples, 279–87
applesauce with bourbon, sour cherries and hazelnuts, 286
baking, 285
Braeburn, about, 282
Cameo, about, 283
discoloration of, avoiding, 285
domestic varieties, 281–84
and dried cranberries, gratin of, 287
Empire, about, 283
Fuji, about, 282
Gala, about, 282
Honeycrisp, about, 283–84
how to choose, 284
how to prepare, 284–85
how to store, 284
industry history, 280–82
Jonagold, about, 283
one simple dish, 285
Pink Lady, about, 283
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 284
applesauce with bourbon, sour cherries and hazelnuts, 286
apricots, unripe, buying, 126
A&P supermarkets, 10
artichoke(s), 35–46
anatomy of, 36
baby, fava beans, and spring onions, risotto of, 84–85
braised with saffron, black olives and almonds, 46
braising, 39
cooked, flavor of, 37
discoloration of, avoiding, 36–37
enzymatic browning of, 36–37
fall harvest, 37
how to choose, 38
how to store, 38
one simple dish, 39
sizes of, 37–38
soup, cream of, with Parmesan chips, 44–45
spring harvest, 37
stuffed with ham and pine nuts, 42–43
sweet reaction from, 37
where they are grown, 38
arugula
and grilled corn salad, 137
pear, and goat cheese salad, 296
shrimp, and lemon zest, consommé with, 96
and shrimp, melon salad with, 206–7
Asian American farmers, 315–18
Asian pear(s)
about, 291–92
crisp with walnut topping, 302–3
how to choose, 294
how to prepare, 294
how to store, 294
one simple dish, 294
where they are grown, 293–94
Asian vegetables, growing of, 315–18
asparagus, 47–58
fat spears, 47–48
how to choose, 51
how to store, 51
one simple dish, 51
overcooking, effect of, 50
peels, disposing of, 48
with sauce mimosa, 58
and shrimp risotto, 53–54
steaming, 51
sulfurous compounds in, 50
thin spears, 47–48
where they are grown, 50–51
white, about, 49–50
wrapped in crisp prosciutto, 52
avocado(s)
and peppery greens, crab salad with, 99–100
refrigeration rules, 205
sweet onion, and shrimp salad, 70
unripe, buying, 126
bananas
refrigeration rules, 205
unripe, buying, 126
Bartlett, Enoch, 289
basil
mayonnaise and green beans, chicken salad with, 158
syrup, strawberries and oranges in, 112
beans, dried
cooking, 156
harvesting, 156
presoaking, 156
shelly, about, 156
sizes of, 156
bean(s), fresh
fava, 74–78
baby artichokes, and spring onions, risotto of, 84–85
braising, 78
harvesting, 76
how to choose, 77
how to prepare, 77–78
how to store, 77
one simple dish, 78
signs of freshness, 76
where they are grown, 77
green, 154–59
and basil mayonnaise, chicken salad with, 158
blanching, 157
color variations, 155
flat types, 155
harvesting, 155
how to choose, 157
how to prepare, 157
how to store, 157
one simple dish, 157
overcooked, 159
and potato salad with Green Goddess dressing, 345
removing string from, 155
round types, 155
where they are grown, 157
beet(s)
colors of, 351
cucumber, and feta salad, 145
greens, about, 332
how to choose, 352
how to prepare, 352
how to store, 352
one simple dish, 352
and orange salad with goat cheese and walnuts, 388–89
where they are grown, 352
Belgian endive, about, 90
berries. See also strawberry(ies)
gratin of apples and dried cranberries, 287
honeydew ice parfait with blackberries and white port, 208
nectarines and blackberries in rose geranium syrup, 216
Bing, Ah, 182
blackberries
and nectarines in rose geranium syrup, 216
and white port, honeydew ice parfait with, 208
blini, fresh corn, with crema fresca, 135–36
bok choy, about, 332
broccoflower, about, 236
broccoli, 235–39
best cooking methods, 236–37
bunching types of, 238
chopped salad, 241–42
flavor characteristics, 236
how to choose, 238–39
how to prepare, 239
how to store, 239
one simple dish, 239
relation to cabbage, 235
and sausage, pasta with, 243–44
where it is grown, 238
bruschetta, smoky eggplant, 151
brussels sprouts, 321–25
best cooking method, 322
how to store, 324
one simple dish, 325
overcooking, 322
sulfurous compounds in, 322
where they are grown, 324
buckle, cornmeal, with plums, 222
Bunyard, Edward, 289
butter, tomato, seared scallops with, 180
butternut squash, about, 269
cabbage(s), 321–25
best cooking method, 323
how to choose, 324
how to store, 324
long-headed Asian, about, 323–24
one simple dish, 325
red, about, 323
round, about, 323
and sausage, lentil soup with, 326–27
Savoy, duxelles-stuffed, 328–29
sulfurous compounds in, 322
where they are grown, 324
cake, old-fashioned orange, 390–91
California
agricultural business in, 6–9
farmers’ markets in, 13
stone fruits grown in, 113–14
Cameron, James, 31
Canada, tomatoes from, 227–28
candied citrus peel, 392–93
canning process, 111
cantaloupe, 199
how to choose, 201
how to prepare, 202
how to store, 202
melon salad with shrimp and arugula, 206–7
one simple dish, 202
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 201
capsaicin, 258
carnival squash, about, 269
carrots
colors of, 351
how to choose, 353
how to prepare, 353
how to store, 353
one simple dish, 353
where they are grown, 353
cauliflower, 235–38
best cooking methods, 237
custard, 245–46
flavor characteristics, 236
garlicky braised, with capers, 247
how to choose, 239–40
how to prepare, 240
how to store, 240
one simple dish, 240
relation to cabbage, 235
roasting, 240
where it is grown, 239
chards, about, 332
cheese
broccoli chopped salad, 241–42
cucumber, beet and feta salad, 145
goat, and walnuts, orange and beet salad with, 388–89
goat, arugula, and pear salad, 296
heirloom tomato tart, 176–77
mushroom, fennel and Parmesan salad, 253
Parmesan chips, 45
salad of roasted peppers and ricotta salata, 264
sandwiches, grilled, with sweet onions, 68–69
sugar snap pea soup with Parmesan cream, 79–80
tart of garlicky greens and black olives, 336
chefs and restaurant customers, 313–14
cherry(ies), 181–89
-almond cobbler, 188–89
farming of, 183
harvesting, 182
heating, 184
how to prepare, 185
how to store, 185
new varieties of, 183
one simple dish, 185
red wine-poached, 187
soup, cold spiced, 186
sour, fresh, buying, 181
sweet, varieties of, 181–82
where they are grown, 185
chicken salad with green beans and basil mayonnaise, 158
chicories, about, 90–91
chile peppers
consumption of, 256
heat from, 258–59
how to choose, 259
one simple dish, 260
roasting, 262–63
varieties of, 257–59
where they are grown, 259
and zucchini braised in cream, 266
China, apples from, 281
Chinese broccoli, 332
chips, Parmesan, 45
chives, about, 61
Chu, Andrew, 231
cilantro-walnut pesto, grilled eggplant with, 153
clafouti
about, 298–99
pear, with pistachio topping, 297
preparing, 299
Clementines, 376–77
growing season, 377
Spanish imports, 377
cobbler, cherry-almond, 188–89
Coleman, Moses, 62
collard greens, about, 331
compote, quick strawberry, 107
consommé, shellfish, 97–98
consommé with shrimp, arugula and lemon zest, 96
corn, 129–39
bicolor, 132–33
fresh, blini with crema fresca, 135–36
grilled, and arugula salad, 137
grilling, 134
how to choose, 133
how to prepare, 134
how to store, 133
new varieties of, 132
one simple dish, 134
sulfurous compounds in, 131–32
supersweet, about, 131
sweet, and shrimp “risotto,” 138–39
sweet, varieties of, 130–31
where they are grown, 133
white, 132–33
yellow, 132–33
cornmeal
buckle with plums, 222
fresh corn blini with crema fresca, 135–36
crab salad with avocado and peppery greens, 99–100
cranberries, dried, and apples, gratin of, 287
cucumber(s), 140–45
beet, and feta salad, 145
effects on digestive system, 141–42
gazpacho, 144
how to choose, 143
how to prepare, 143
how to store, 142–43
one simple dish, 143
for pickling, 141
preparing salad with, 143
refrigeration rules, 205
seedless, development of, 141
varieties of, 140–41
waxed, peeling, 142
where they are grown, 143
Cullen, Michael, 9–10
cumin-lemon oil, spicy, 338
curd, citrus, about, 372–74
curd, lemon, 370–71
currants, about, 194
custard, cauliflower, 245–46
cynarin, 37
dressing, Green Goddess, 346
duck breast, pan-crisped, with roasted grapes, 196–97
eggplant(s), 146–53
bitter flavor of, 146–47
frying methods, 147
grilled, with walnut-cilantro pesto, 153
grilling, 150
how to choose, 149
how to prepare, 149–50
how to store, 149
one simple dish, 150
refrigeration rules, 205
salad, silken, 152
salting before cooking, 147
smoky, bruschetta, 151
varieties of, 148
where they are grown, 149
eggs
asparagus with sauce mimosa, 58
how to hard-cook, 58
sweet potato-prosciutto soufflé, 360–61
whites, whipping, for soufflé, 363
zucchini frittata, 165
endives
about, 90–91
crab salad with avocado and peppery greens, 99–100
enzymatic browning, 36–37
escarole, about, 91
farmers’ markets
Asian vegetables sold at, 315–18
chefs buying at, 313–14
in early 1900s, 12
heirloom tomatoes sold at, 229
increase in numbers of, 13–14
in mid 1970s, 12–13
wholesalers buying at, 314
farming
in California, 6–9
farm subsidies, 4–5
history of, 6–14
modern-day practices, 3
organic, 14–16
rural farmers, 11–12
fava bean(s), 74–78
baby artichokes, and spring onions, risotto of, 84–85
braising, 78
harvesting, 76
how to choose, 77
how to prepare, 77–78
how to store, 77
one simple dish, 78
signs of freshness, 76
where they are grown, 77
fennel
golden tomato soup with, 178–79
mushroom, and Parmesan salad, 253
feta, cucumber and beet salad, 145
fig(s)
caprification process, 306
harvesting, 306–7
-honey gelato, 310
how to choose, 308
how to prepare, 308
how to store, 308
one simple dish, 308
pollination of, 305–6
self-pollinating, 306
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 308
fish
crisp-skinned salmon with braised spring peas and mushrooms, 83–84
roasted red peppers stuffed with tuna, 261
food co-ops, 12
frittata, zucchini, 165
Frost, Howard, 31
fruits. See also specific fruits
chill damage to, 204
cut-up, refrigerating, 204
fragility of, 2–3
refrigeration rules, 203–4
respiration rates, 203
seedless varieties of, 24–26
stone, breeding experiments, 209–10
stone, grown in California, 113–14
transpiration rates, 203
unripe, buying, 125–26
garlic
-and-herb-stuffed tomatoes and zucchini, 166–67
elephant, about, 64
garlicky braised cauliflower with capers, 247
hardneck, about, 64
how to choose, 65
how to prepare, 64
how to store, 65
refrigeration rules, 205
softneck, about, 64
tart of garlicky greens and black olives, 336
two types of, 64
gazpacho, cucumber, 144
gelato
fig-honey, 310
peach, 214
genetically modified organisms (GMOs), 28–29
goat cheese
arugula, and pear salad, 296
and walnuts, orange and beet salad with, 388–89
granita, Meyer lemon, 375
grapefruit, 378–80
candied citrus peel, 392–93
durability of, 378
how to choose, 379
how to prepare, 379
how to store, 379
one simple dish, 380
where they are grown, 379
grapes, 190–97
annual consumption of, 190
breeding experiments, 193–94
common varieties, 192–93
Concord, about, 191
drying, 194
how to choose, 195
how to prepare, 195
how to store, 195
Muscat, flavor of, 191–92
one simple dish, 195
roasted, pan-crisped duck breast with, 196–97
size of, increasing, 193–94
where they are grown, 195
for wine, 192
gratins
of apples and dried cranberries, 287
mushroom and spaghetti squash, with Parmesan bread crumbs, 275–76
of potatoes, leeks and mushrooms, 347–48
turnip and potato, 359
green bean(s), 154–59
and basil mayonnaise, chicken salad with, 158
blanching, 157
color variations, 155
flat types, 155
harvesting, 155
how to choose, 157
how to prepare, 157
how to store, 157
one simple dish, 157
overcooked, 159
and potato salad with Green Goddess dressing, 345
removing string from, 155
round types, 155
where they are grown, 157
Green Goddess dressing, 346
greens, cooking, 330–38
Asian, about, 332
attributes of, 330–31
beet, about, 332
blanching, 332–33
chards, about, 332
collard, about, 331
garlicky, and black olives, tart of, 336
how to choose, 333
how to prepare, 333–34
how to store, 333
kale, about, 331
mustard, about, 331
one simple dish, 334
Southern comfort soup, 335
with spicy lemon-cumin oil, 337
turnip, about, 332
where they are grown, 333
greens, salad, 86–100
arugula, pear and goat cheese salad, 296
butterhead lettuce, about, 90
consommé with shrimp, arugula and lemon zest, 96
endives, about, 90–91
fragility of, 2–3
grilled corn and arugula salad, 137
how to choose, 92
how to prepare, 92
how to store, 92
iceberg, farming of, 87–89
iceberg, history of, 86–87
leaf lettuce, about, 90
melon salad with shrimp and arugula, 206–7
one simple dish, 93
peppery, and avocado, crab salad with, 99–100
romaine, about, 90
in tossed green salad, 93
where they are grown, 92
guavas, unripe, buying, 126
ham
asparagus wrapped in crisp prosciutto, 52
and pine nuts, artichokes stuffed with, 42–43
sweet potato-prosciutto soufflé, 360–61
Hardenpont, Nicolas, 288
hash, mushroom, 254–55
Hedrick, U. P., 181
Hmong farmers, 316–17
Holland
peppers from, 256–57
tomatoes from, 226–27
honey, rosemary, mandarins with, 381
honeydew
how to choose, 201–2
how to prepare, 202
how to store, 202
ice parfait with blackberries and white port, 208
one simple dish, 202
where they are grown, 201
hotcakes, Ole’s Swedish, with quick strawberry compote, 106–7
ice cream
nectarine-cardamom, 215
spiced plum, 221
Jacob, Dutch, 289
kabocha squash, about, 269
kale, about, 331
Kelly, Fitz, 119–24
King Cullen stores, 9–10
Lamborn, Calvin, 76
Laotian farmers, 315–18
Larson, Kirk, 23, 24, 27–28, 29–30
Laughnan, John, 131
leeks
about, 64
how to choose, 65
how to prepare, 64–65
potatoes, and mushrooms, gratin of, 347–48
legumes. See also bean(s), fresh; pea(s)
defined, 74
dried beans, 156
lentil soup with sausage and cabbage, 326–27
lemon(s), 364–68
-cumin oil, spicy, 338
curd tart, 370–71
harvesting, 366
history of, 364
how to choose, 367
how to prepare, 367–68
Meyer, about, 365
Meyer, granita, 375
one simple dish, 368
and pistachio panna cotta, 369
varieties of, 364–65
where they are grown, 367
zest, flavor in, 366
zesting methods, 367–68
lentil soup with sausage and cabbage, 326–27
lettuce
butterhead, about, 90
how to choose, 92
how to prepare, 92
how to store, 92
iceberg, farming of, 87–89
iceberg, history of, 86–87
leaf, about, 90
one simple dish, 93
romaine, about, 90
where they are grown, 92
Lewelling, Seth, 182
lima beans
about, 156
and pasta, summer squash stew with, 168
limes, 364–68
harvesting, 366
history of, 365
how to choose, 367
how to prepare, 367–68
Key, about, 365–66
one simple dish, 368
varieties of, 365–66
where they are grown, 367
zest, flavor in, 366
zesting methods, 367–68
mandarin(s), 376–80
history of, 376–77
how to choose, 379
how to prepare, 379
how to store, 379
one simple dish, 380
parfait with candied ginger, 382–83
with rosemary honey, 381
where they are grown, 379
mangoes, unripe, buying, 126
melon, 198–208
groups of, 198–99
honeydew ice parfait with blackberries and white port, 208
how to prepare, 202
how to store, 202
one simple dish, 202
refrigeration rules, 205
rough-skinned, choosing, 199–200
salad with shrimp and arugula, 206–7
smooth-skinned, choosing, 200
watermelon, about, 200–201
where they are grown, 201
Mexico, tomatoes from, 226
Meyer, Frank, 365
mushroom(s), 248–55
annual consumption of, 251
broccoli chopped salad, 241–42
crimini, about, 250–51
domesticated varieties of, 249
duxelles-stuffed Savoy cabbage, 328–29
fennel, and Parmesan salad, 253
growing, 250
harvesting, 250
hash, 254–55
how to choose, 251
how to prepare, 251–52
how to store, 251
one simple dish, 252
from Pennsylvania, 248–49
portabello, about, 250–51
potatoes, and leeks, gratin of, 347–48
and spaghetti squash gratin with Parmesan bread crumbs, 275–76
and spring peas, braised, crispskinned salmon with, 83–84
where they are grown, 251
wild, domestication efforts, 249
muskmelon, about, 199
mustard greens, about, 331
nectarine(s), 209–16
and blackberries in rose geranium syrup, 216
-cardamom ice cream, 215
compared with peaches, 211–12
consumer preferences, 209–10
how to prepare, 213
how to store, 213
large-scale farming of, 113–19
one simple dish, 213
refrigeration rules, 205
small-scale farming of, 119–24
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 212
white-fleshed varieties, 210–11
nuts. See also walnut(s)
artichokes braised with saffron, black olives and almonds, 46
cherry-almond cobbler, 188–89
lemon and pistachio panna cotta, 369
mandarin parfait with candied ginger, 382–83
pear clafouti with pistachio topping, 297
pear frangipane tart, 300–301
pine, and ham, artichokes stuffed with, 42–43
oil, spicy lemon-cumin, 338
olives
black, and garlicky greens, tart of, 336
black, saffron, and almonds, artichokes braised with, 46
heirloom tomato tart, 176–77
onion(s), 59–73
bunching, about, 61
caramelizing, 66
cipolline, about, 61
curing process, 60
fresh, types of, 61
green, about, 61
harvesting, 59–60
how to choose, 65
how to prepare, 64
how to store, 65
one simple dish, 66
pink pickled, 67
red, about, 60
refrigeration rules, 205
spring, baby artichokes, and fava beans, risotto of, 84–85
storage, types of, 60–61
sweet, about, 61–63
sweet, avocado, and shrimp salad, 70
sweet, grilled cheese sandwiches with, 68–69
Vidalia, about, 62
where they are grown, 64–65
white, about, 60
yellow, about, 60
orange(s), 384–93
and beet salad with goat cheese and walnuts, 388–89
cake, old-fashioned, 390–91
candied citrus peel, 392–93
history of, 384–85
how to choose, 386–87
how to prepare, 387
how to store, 387
navel, about, 385
one simple dish, 387
and strawberries in basil syrup, 112
Valencia, about, 385–86
varieties of, 385–86
where they are grown, 386
organic produce, 14–16
pancakes
Ole’s Swedish hotcakes with quick strawberry compote, 106–7
panna cotta, lemon and pistachio, 369
parfaits
honeydew ice, with blackberries and white port, 208
mandarin, with candied ginger, 382–83
Paris, Harry, 160
Parmesan
chips, 45
cream, sugar snap pea soup with, 79–80
mushroom, and fennel salad, 253
parsnip(s)
how to choose, 353
how to prepare, 353
how to store, 353
one simple dish, 353
soup, cream of, 357–58
where they are grown, 353
pasta
with broccoli and sausage, 243–44
and lima beans, summer squash stew with, 168
peach(es), 209–16
chill damage to, 204
compared with nectarines, 211–12
consumer preferences, 209–10
gelato, 214
how to prepare, 213
how to store, 213
large-scale farming of, 113–19
one simple dish, 213
refrigeration rules, 205
small-scale farming of, 119–24
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 212–13
white-fleshed varieties, 210–11
pear(s), 288–93. See also Asian pear(s)
arugula, and goat cheese salad, 296
breeding experiments, 290–91
clafouti with pistachio topping, 297
frangipane tart, 300–301
history of, 288–90
how to choose, 292–93
how to prepare, 293
how to store, 293
one simple dish, 293
refrigeration rules, 205
ripening, 291
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 292
pea(s), 74–83
English
braising, 78
growing conditions, 75
harvesting, 76
how to choose, 77
how to prepare, 77–78
how to store, 77
and mushrooms, braised, crisp-skinned salmon with, 83–84
one simple dish, 78
storage temperatures, 75–76
where they are grown, 77
snow
about, 76–77
blanching or stir-frying, 78
how to choose, 78
how to prepare, 78
how to store, 78
one simple dish, 78
where they are grown, 78
sugar snap
about, 76–77
blanching or stir-frying, 78
how to choose, 78
how to prepare, 78
how to store, 78
one simple dish, 78
and shrimp with chive mayonnaise, 81
soup with Parmesan cream, 79–80
where they are grown, 78
peperonata, 265
peppers, 256–66
bell, color range, 256–57
bell, popularity of, 256
chile, consumption of, 256
chile, varieties of, 257–59
chile and zucchini braised in cream, 266
heat from, 258–59
how to choose, 259
how to prepare, 260
how to store, 260
one simple dish, 260
peperonata, 265
refrigeration rules, 205
roasted, and ricotta salata, salad of, 264
roasted red, stuffed with tuna, 261
roasting, 262–63
where they are grown, 259
persimmon(s), 304–5
Fuyu, about, 305
Fuyu, salad with cumin-lime vinaigrette, 309
Hachiya, about, 304–5
how to choose, 307
how to prepare, 308
how to store, 307
lesser-known varieties, 305
one simple dish, 308
ripening, 304
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 307
pickled onions, pink, 67
Piggly Wiggly stores, 9
pine nuts and ham, artichokes stuffed with, 42–43
pistachio
and lemon panna cotta, 369
topping, pear clafouti with, 297
plantains, refrigeration rules, 205
plant breeding
citrus fruits, 30–31
genetic mutations, 22
GMO products, 28–29
market-driven orientation, 21
natural genetic selection, 21–22
seedless fruits, 24–26
plum(s), 218–22
breeding experiments, 218–19
cornmeal buckle with, 222
how to choose, 220
how to prepare, 220
how to store, 220
ice cream, spiced, 221
one simple dish, 220
refrigeration rules, 205
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 220
Pluots, about, 219
pork. See ham; sausage
potato(es), 339–48. See also sweet potato(es)
all-purpose, attributes of, 343
best, for baking, 342
best, for mashing, 343
best, for soups and salads, 342–43
best mashing methods, 343
breeding experiments, 342
curing process, 341
glycoalkaloids in, 340
and green bean salad with Green Goddess dressing, 345
growing, 339–41
harvesting, 341
how to choose, 344
how to prepare, 344
how to store, 344
leeks, and mushrooms, gratin of, 347–48
mushroom hash, 254–55
one simple dish, 344
refrigeration rules, 205
susceptibility to diseases, 340
and turnip gratin, 359
varieties of, 342
where they are grown, 343–44
preserves
preparing, 109–11
strawberry, 108
prosciutto
crisp, asparagus wrapped in, 52
-sweet potato soufflé, 360–61
pummelo(s), 378–80
candied citrus peel, 392–93
how to store, 379
quince
about, 291
cooking, 291
how to choose, 294
how to prepare, 295
how to store, 294
one simple dish, 295
unripe, buying, 126
where they are grown, 294
Quinn, P. T., 290
radicchio, 91
radishes
how to choose, 354
how to prepare, 354
how to store, 354
one simple dish, 354
where they are grown, 354
raisins
Asian pear crisp with walnut topping, 302–3
old-fashioned orange cake, 390–91
varieties of, 194
red wine-poached cherries, 187
restaurant customers, 313–14
rice
asparagus and shrimp risotto, 53–54
for risotto, varieties of, 55
risotto of fava beans, baby artichokes and spring onions, 84–85
Southern comfort soup, 335
winter squash risotto with walnuts and fried sage leaves, 273–74
ricotta salata and roasted peppers, salad of, 264
risotto
asparagus and shrimp, 53–54
of fava beans, baby artichokes and spring onions, 84–85
preparing, 55–57
winter squash, with walnuts and fried sage leaves, 273–74
“risotto,” shrimp and sweet corn, 138–39
Roeding, George, 306
root vegetables, 349–61. See also beet(s); carrots; parsnip(s); radishes; rutabagas; sweet potato(es); turnip(s)
attributes of, 349–51
dry-heat cooking, 351–52
moist-heat cooking, 351
pungent flavors of, 351
vibrant colors of, 351
rose geranium syrup, nectarines and blackberries in, 216
rosemary
gremolata, caramelized winter squash with, 277–78
honey, mandarins with, 381
rutabagas
how to choose, 355–56
how to prepare, 356
how to store, 356
one simple dish, 356
where they are grown, 355
saffron, black olives and almonds, artichokes braised with, 46
salad dressings
Green Goddess dressing, 346
salmon, crisp-skinned, with braised spring peas and mushrooms, 83–84
sandwiches, grilled cheese, with sweet onions, 68–69
Satsuma mandarins, about, 376
Saunders, Clarence, 9
sausage
and broccoli, pasta with, 243–44
and cabbage, lentil soup with, 326–27
scallops, seared, with tomato butter, 180
seafood
asparagus and shrimp risotto, 53–54
consommé with shrimp, arugula and lemon zest, 96
crab salad with avocado and peppery greens, 99–100
crisp-skinned salmon with braised spring peas and mushrooms, 83–84
melon salad with shrimp and arugula, 206–7
roasted red peppers stuffed with tuna, 261
seared scallops with tomato butter, 180
shellfish consommé, 97–98
shrimp and sweet corn “risotto,” 138–39
sugar snap peas and shrimp with chive mayonnaise, 81
sweet onion, avocado and shrimp salad, 70
shallots
about, 63
how to choose, 65
how to prepare, 64
how to store, 65
shellfish
asparagus and shrimp risotto, 53–54
consommé, 97–98
consommé with shrimp, arugula and lemon zest, 96
crab salad with avocado and peppery greens, 99–100
melon salad with shrimp and arugula, 206–7
seared scallops with tomato butter, 180
shrimp and sweet corn “risotto,” 138–39
sugar snap peas and shrimp with chive mayonnaise, 81
sweet onion, avocado and shrimp salad, 70
shrimp
arugula, and lemon zest, consommé with, 96
and arugula, melon salad with, 206–7
and asparagus risotto, 53–54
shellfish consommé, 97–98
and sugar snap peas with chive mayonnaise, 81
and sweet corn “risotto,” 138–39
sweet onion, and avocado salad, 70
simple syrups, flavored, 217
Smith, Adam, 223
Soost, Robert, 31
soufflés
preparing, 362–63
sweet potato-prosciutto, 360–61
spaghetti squash and mushroom gratin with Parmesan bread crumbs, 275–76
Spain, clementines from, 377
squash. See summer squash; winter squash
strawberry(ies), 101–12
baking, tips for, 104
compote, quick, 107
how to choose, 104
how to prepare, 105
how to store, 105
one simple dish, 105
and oranges in basil syrup, 112
preserves, 108
production costs, 27
sugaring, 104
susceptibility to pests and disease, 103
where they are grown, 104
summer squash, 160–68
braising, 164
chile and zucchini braised in cream, 266
flowers, cooking, 162–63
garlic-and-herb-stuffed tomatoes and zucchini, 166–67
harvesting, 162
history of, 160–61
how to choose, 163
how to prepare, 164
how to store, 163–64
one simple dish, 164
shrimp and sweet corn “risotto,” 138–39
stew with pasta and lima beans, 168
varieties of, 161–62
where they are grown, 163
zucchini frittata, 165
supermarket business, 9–10, 230
Swayne, William, 248
Sweet, Lou, 342
sweet potato(es) how to choose, 354–55
how to prepare, 355
how to store, 355
one simple dish, 355
-prosciutto soufflé, 360–61
refrigeration rules, 205
where they are grown, 354
Swingle, Walter, 31
syrups, flavored, 217
tarts
of garlicky greens and black olives, 336
heirloom tomato, 176–77
lemon curd, 370–71
pear frangipane, 300–301
Thompson, William, 192
tomato(es), 169–80
annual consumption, 232
butter, seared scallops with, 180
Canadian imports, 227–28
determinate plants, 224–25
domestic production of, 228
Dutch imports, 226–27
flavor compounds in, 170–71
Flavr Savr, history of, 28–29
golden, soup with fennel, 178–79
heirloom, tart, 176–77
heirloom varieties, 228–30
how to choose, 174
how to prepare, 174–75
how to store, 174
indeterminate plants, 225
mature-green types, 223–25
Mexican imports, 226
miniature types, 230–32
one simple dish, 175
refrigeration rules, 205
research on, 172–73
unripe, buying, 126
unripe, picking, 171–72
where they are grown, 174
and zucchini, garlic-and-herb-stuffed, 166–67
tuna, roasted red peppers stuffed with, 261
turnip(s)
greens, about, 332
how to choose, 355–56
how to prepare, 356
how to store, 356
one simple dish, 356
and potato gratin, 359
where they are grown, 355
Van Mons, Jean Baptiste, 288
vegetables. See also root vegetables; specific vegetables
Asian, growing of, 315–18
chill damage to, 204
cut-up, refrigerating, 204
fragility of, 2–3
green, effect of cooking on, 154–55
precut, packaging of, 94–95
refrigeration rules, 203–4
respiration rates, 203
transpiration rates, 203
Voth, Victor, 30
walnut(s)
broccoli chopped salad, 241–42
-cilantro pesto, grilled eggplant with, 153
and fried sage leaves, winter squash risotto with, 273–74
and goat cheese, orange and beet salad with, 388–89
gratin of apples and dried cranberries, 287
old-fashioned orange cake, 390–91
topping, Asian pear crisp with, 302–3
watermelon
about, 200–201
how to choose, 202
how to prepare, 202
where they are grown, 201
Weiser, Sid, 312
Weiser family, 311–15
Welch, Thomas, 191
wholesale customers, 14, 314, 315
wine, grapes for, 192
winter squash, 267–78
acorn, about, 269
butternut, about, 269
caramelized, with rosemary gremolata, 277–78
carnival, about, 269
characteristics of, 268
common varieties, 269
curing process, 270
flavor and texture, 270–71
how to prepare, 271–72
how to store, 271
kabocha, about, 269
major species, 267–68
mushroom and spaghetti squash gratin with Parmesan bread crumbs, 275–76
one simple dish, 272
risotto with walnuts and fried sage leaves, 273–74
roasting, 272
where they are grown, 271
yogurt
cucumber gazpacho, 144
Zaiger, Floyd, 219
zucchini, 160–68
braising, 164
and chile braised in cream, 266
frittata, 165
history of, 160–61
how to choose, 163
how to prepare, 164
how to store, 163–64
one simple dish, 164
shrimp and sweet corn “risotto,” 138–39
and tomatoes, garlic-and-herb-stuffed, 166–67
varieties of, 162
where they are grown, 163